0:00:00 > 0:00:00- 888
0:00:00 > 0:00:03- Date: - July 17 2001
0:00:04 > 0:00:07- Location: - Canada's Northwest Territories
0:00:10 > 0:00:14- INTENTION: - CLIMB THE LOTUS FLOWER TOWER - AND ESCAPE DOWN THE RIVER NAHANNI
0:00:30 > 0:00:33- CLIMBERS: - TOM THOMAS AND CARADOG JONES
0:01:23 > 0:01:25- Up The Lotus... - and Down the River
0:01:25 > 0:01:28- You can't pop - to The Lotus Flower Tower.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32- It's located in Canada's Northwest - Territories - and Canada is big.
0:01:32 > 0:01:36- You'll find it after - a couple of helicopter hops...
0:01:36 > 0:01:41- ..in The Mackenzie Mountains, 200 - miles west of the Mackenzie River.
0:01:41 > 0:01:44- Fort Simpson is the nearest village - to The Tower...
0:01:45 > 0:01:49- ..The Dene's native village, where - Tom Thomas and Caradoc Jones met up.
0:01:50 > 0:01:52- At last! Where have you been?
0:01:52 > 0:01:53- At last! Where have you been? - - How are you?
0:01:56 > 0:01:57- Was the trip OK?
0:01:58 > 0:01:59- Good.
0:01:59 > 0:02:01- Roads are a rarity in this area.
0:02:01 > 0:02:05- If you thought Soar y Mynydd - was remote...
0:02:05 > 0:02:07- ..you should go to Fort Simpson.
0:02:12 > 0:02:16- Catching a plane is like jumping - on a bus in this part of the world.
0:02:16 > 0:02:20- Fort Simpson's most famous - bus driver is Jacques Harvey...
0:02:21 > 0:02:23- ..the Nahanni Cowboy.
0:02:23 > 0:02:27- There's an aeroplane just took off - to Yellowknife. Tried 3 times today.
0:02:27 > 0:02:30- He turned back every time, so - it's pretty bad in there right now.
0:02:30 > 0:02:35- Jacques is highly respected - for his Twin Otter escapades.
0:02:36 > 0:02:38- ..in about 15 minutes, - we'll find out what's happening.
0:02:38 > 0:02:41- To cut firewood, or if we fall out!
0:02:42 > 0:02:45- Caradoc and Tom - are respected climbers in Wales.
0:02:47 > 0:02:50- Caradoc was the first Welshman - to climb Everest...
0:02:50 > 0:02:54- ..and the fifth Briton to reach - the peak from The Northern Ridge.
0:02:54 > 0:02:57- Tom isn't as experienced - in the big mountains.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01- But he's a very able rock climber.
0:03:01 > 0:03:04- Caradoc is from Tregaron - and Tom is from Nant Peris.
0:03:05 > 0:03:08- They've frequently climbed - together in Wales.
0:03:08 > 0:03:12- They haven't attempted a terrifying - climb like The Lotus Flower Tower.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18- There's no room for a mule - or a Sherpa in the Twin Otter.
0:03:18 > 0:03:21- Caradoc and Tom must carry - their climbing equipment...
0:03:21 > 0:03:25- ..a raft, two paddles - and a month's supply of food.
0:03:26 > 0:03:30- Yes, a month. This isn't a Sunday - afternoon hike up Snowdon!
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- This will be the journey.
0:03:43 > 0:03:45- They will reach and climb - The Tower...
0:03:45 > 0:03:50- ..before returning to civilisation - on a raft down South Nahanni River.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- The wild tower, canyons and - 200-year-old gold rush history.
0:03:55 > 0:03:59- They'll paddle through The Funeral - Range, past Headless Creek...
0:04:00 > 0:04:04- ..and into Deadman's Valley. - A total of over 200 miles.
0:04:05 > 0:04:09- From Llanberis to London - without passing a single house.
0:04:22 > 0:04:26- The first relatively easy step - is reaching The Glacier Lake.
0:05:01 > 0:05:03- These are heavy!
0:05:10 > 0:05:13- The journey is split - into two equal parts.
0:05:13 > 0:05:17- Two weeks in the mountain, - two weeks on the river.
0:05:19 > 0:05:22- They leave the raft - and half the food behind...
0:05:23 > 0:05:26- ..out of the reach - of would-be burglars.
0:05:27 > 0:05:29- The bears.
0:05:44 > 0:05:48- The lads only saw one bear - from a distance, thankfully!
0:05:49 > 0:05:52- Shame the same couldn't - be said of the mosquitoes.
0:05:56 > 0:05:59- Mind your watch, Tom. It'll melt.
0:06:42 > 0:06:46- The first climbers arrived here - in 1955.
0:06:46 > 0:06:51- That's when Arnold Wexler called - the place, 'the impossible valley.'
0:06:51 > 0:06:53- 'The Cirque of the Unclimbables.'
0:06:54 > 0:06:56- He felt so frustrated.
0:06:57 > 0:07:01- Loads of granite walls to climb, - all impossible...
0:07:02 > 0:07:07- ..until a young climber called - Bill Buckingham heard about them.
0:07:07 > 0:07:10- Bill and his mates arrived in 1960.
0:07:11 > 0:07:14- They made a mockery - of Wexler's statement.
0:07:14 > 0:07:17- They climbed nearly every peak - in a month.
0:07:18 > 0:07:21- It's true they always - took the easier routes...
0:07:21 > 0:07:24- ..but they conquered them, - after all.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27- Including this one.
0:07:28 > 0:07:32- The most graceful wall - and tower of them all.
0:07:32 > 0:07:36- The lads named it, - 'The Lotus Flower Tower.'
0:07:37 > 0:07:39- It is graceful.
0:07:39 > 0:07:43- The most beautiful tower - in the world. The perfect pillar.
0:07:43 > 0:07:48- At 2,000 feet, it's one - of North America's classic climbs.
0:07:48 > 0:07:50- One of the world's best climbs.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55- Well, it's 1.00am - and we're cooking supper.
0:07:58 > 0:08:02- Night doesn't fall - in the Arctic Circle in summer.
0:08:02 > 0:08:06- There's just a twilight - between midnight and 2.00am.
0:08:06 > 0:08:08- Only this kind of daylight.
0:08:08 > 0:08:09- Only this kind of daylight. - - Yes.
0:08:14 > 0:08:19- They travelled back to the lake - twice for the climbing equipment.
0:08:31 > 0:08:33- This is boiling - and ready for a cuppa.
0:08:34 > 0:08:37- Do you feel better - after a good night's sleep?
0:08:37 > 0:08:39- Yes, slightly.
0:08:40 > 0:08:45- I hadn't realised before how much - carrying work would be involved...
0:08:46 > 0:08:48- ..to get the equipment up here.
0:08:49 > 0:08:54- It's about three or four miles - and 3,000 feet through those trees.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58- Mosquitos were a nightmare. - I'm covered in lumps.
0:08:58 > 0:09:00- I'm the same - bitten alive!
0:09:01 > 0:09:03- It's lucky we're not that high up.
0:09:05 > 0:09:07- At least we're not out of breath.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10- It'll take a couple of days - to acclimatize.
0:09:38 > 0:09:41- One morning, - they met a crowd of Americans.
0:09:42 > 0:09:45- They'd also set their sights - on The Lotus Flower Tower.
0:10:32 > 0:10:34- It's nearly ready, Caradoc.
0:10:34 > 0:10:37- French or Italian dressing?
0:10:37 > 0:10:38- That'll do!
0:10:56 > 0:10:59- We've spent six days - in the valley.
0:11:00 > 0:11:02- It doesn't look too promising.
0:11:02 > 0:11:05- We'll have to grab - the first chance we get.
0:11:05 > 0:11:07- Looks like that, doesn't it?
0:11:07 > 0:11:12- I'm a bit worried that it's - still wet after last night's rain.
0:11:12 > 0:11:13- Want some?
0:11:14 > 0:11:18- I wasn't going to ask but you've - been fighting with that for a while.
0:11:18 > 0:11:19- What's going on?
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- What's going on? - - Just trying to release the swine!
0:11:23 > 0:11:24- I'm optimistic!
0:11:26 > 0:11:27- Where's the chisel?
0:11:27 > 0:11:29- Where's the chisel? - - Did you remember Delia Smith's book?
0:11:30 > 0:11:33- Here it is! What does it say - about flipping a pancake?
0:11:33 > 0:11:34- Here it is! What does it say - about flipping a pancake? - - Success!
0:11:34 > 0:11:35- Excellent!
0:11:49 > 0:11:51- It's starting to rain again, Tom.
0:11:51 > 0:11:52- It's starting to rain again, Tom. - - The weather's unpredictable.
0:12:00 > 0:12:01- What do you think - of the marshland behind us?
0:12:01 > 0:12:02- What do you think - of the marshland behind us? - - Beautiful, isn't it?
0:12:03 > 0:12:04- Like Tregaron Bog.
0:12:05 > 0:12:07- I've never seen Tregaron Bog.
0:12:07 > 0:12:09- A famous place.
0:12:10 > 0:12:13- This is like Llanberis pass, - with all the rain!
0:12:13 > 0:12:14- This is like Llanberis pass, - with all the rain! - - You're right.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18- Yes, a climber's life is a hard one.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22- A whole week was lost - due to fog and rain.
0:12:22 > 0:12:26- They will only have one opportunity - in the week remaining...
0:12:26 > 0:12:29- ..to be the first - to climb The Tower this year.
0:12:31 > 0:12:35- The Americans had already - attempted the first 300 feet.
0:12:35 > 0:12:40- Because of the wet conditions, - they descended to get dry...
0:12:40 > 0:12:44- ..and reconsider. - That's when the arguing started.
0:12:44 > 0:12:50- Caradoc wanted to climb The Tower - without the Americans' help.
0:12:51 > 0:12:55- Tom thought they should take - advantage of the Americans' ropes...
0:12:55 > 0:13:00- ..in order to secure a good start, - without getting soaking wet.
0:13:00 > 0:13:02- He won.
0:13:02 > 0:13:04- But Caradoc wasn't happy.
0:13:04 > 0:13:08- Using other climbers' ropes - wasn't in his dictionary.
0:13:08 > 0:13:12- But he had to compromise. - A bit early for a mutiny.
0:13:12 > 0:13:14- Well, Mr Jones. What do you think?
0:13:14 > 0:13:16- It's still hellishly wet.
0:13:18 > 0:13:19- To say the least.
0:13:21 > 0:13:23- Terrible at the moment, isn't it?
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- It's difficult to say - what the next few days will bring.
0:13:30 > 0:13:34- Perhaps we could give it - a go tomorrow. Take a chance.
0:13:35 > 0:13:37- We'd get very wet.
0:13:38 > 0:13:42- But if it's dry the day after, we'd - have some hope on the second part.
0:13:43 > 0:13:48- If we do it over two days and put - everything on the halfway ledge.
0:14:20 > 0:14:23- Day 8
0:15:08 > 0:15:11- Get the hell out of your way, - the Welshmen!
0:15:12 > 0:15:15- There was no squabbling - in the other camp.
0:15:15 > 0:15:17- James and Franzisca, - two doctors from Utah...
0:15:18 > 0:15:22- ..enjoyed the Welshmen's company, - after a week of chatting and rain.
0:15:23 > 0:15:26- Tom felt he wasn't fit enough - to lead.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29- But he was more than able - to follow and clear up.
0:15:38 > 0:15:42- Caradoc was a happy man. - He climbed freely and easily.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46- Two days, and 2,000 feet - were ahead of him.
0:16:07 > 0:16:11- Although they didn't have a mule, - they had to drag the yellow pig.
0:16:11 > 0:16:16- This contained food, stove, - sacks and sleeping mats.
0:16:17 > 0:16:19- How's it going?
0:16:20 > 0:16:23- I'm finding it quite hard. - It looks so easy.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25- Tricky, isn't it?
0:16:35 > 0:16:39- The main feature of The Tower's - lower half is an enormous chimney.
0:16:40 > 0:16:45- A 600 foot crack, that's technically - easy to climb when it's dry.
0:16:46 > 0:16:50- But when it's cold and wet, - it's dangerously slippery.
0:17:00 > 0:17:01- Bit of a struggle, sir?
0:17:01 > 0:17:02- Bit of a struggle, sir? - - Yes.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06- Once we're out - of this bloody chimney...
0:17:06 > 0:17:07- Exactly.
0:17:11 > 0:17:13-
0:17:21 > 0:17:22- Below!
0:17:28 > 0:17:30- The stone nearly landed on my head.
0:17:32 > 0:17:33- That close.
0:17:41 > 0:17:43- They finally reach the halfway mark.
0:17:43 > 0:17:46- It's midnight. - Breakfast was 18 hours ago.
0:17:46 > 0:17:48- How are you doing there, James?
0:17:48 > 0:17:50- It's a good pitch, isn't it?
0:17:52 > 0:17:54- It was a great pitch.
0:17:55 > 0:17:57- Sharing a ledge with a Welshman.
0:17:57 > 0:17:59- That's the best part of climbing.
0:18:02 > 0:18:05- When are we going to see - you guys over in Wales?
0:18:05 > 0:18:09- I'd love to climb that Gogarth area. - I'd love to go there.
0:18:10 > 0:18:12- I was there a week - before coming out.
0:18:12 > 0:18:14- I was there a week - before coming out. - - That must be just awesome.
0:18:14 > 0:18:16- I mean...
0:18:18 > 0:18:19- ..Wales.
0:18:19 > 0:18:23- Just the name sounds so cool. Wales!
0:18:26 > 0:18:28- Hello, folks. How are you?
0:18:28 > 0:18:30- Hello, folks. How are you? - - Hi, Tom.
0:18:31 > 0:18:34- Look at Tom! He's got - a pretty rugged beard.
0:18:34 > 0:18:36- He's getting a bit - Desperate Dan-ish.
0:18:37 > 0:18:40- I'm not sure if I can climb - with him unless he shaves tomorrow!
0:18:43 > 0:18:47- The original plan was to eat - and grab a few hours sleep but...
0:18:48 > 0:18:50- I think we need another rope.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54- It's up to you. - What do you want to do?
0:18:55 > 0:18:57- It's up to you.
0:18:57 > 0:19:00- If you fancy, - I'll bail you by all means.
0:19:02 > 0:19:05- Are you anxious - to get on the sharp end?
0:19:05 > 0:19:07- Tom's definitely not anxious!
0:19:07 > 0:19:11- That's one thing Tom - isn't,- is anxious!
0:19:11 > 0:19:14- He's pretty relaxed really, because - he's thinking about his tea now.
0:19:14 > 0:19:16- I'll cook Caradoc - something nice to eat.
0:19:17 > 0:19:18- Tom is in tea mode.
0:19:18 > 0:19:19- Tom is in tea mode. - - Yeah.
0:19:19 > 0:19:21- I've forgotten my sleeping mat.
0:19:22 > 0:19:23- You're joking.
0:19:23 > 0:19:24- You're joking. - - No.
0:19:24 > 0:19:29- I'll sleep on the ropes. It doesn't - matter. I have a sleeping bag.
0:19:42 > 0:19:46- Well. Things are going well - - and also really badly.
0:19:46 > 0:19:48- I'll give you the bad news first.
0:19:48 > 0:19:52- We've forgotten the stove pump - in the camp below.
0:19:53 > 0:19:57- We can't have a cuppa - or a cooked meal tonight.
0:19:59 > 0:20:02- It's going well, - because Caradoc is up there...
0:20:02 > 0:20:06- ..trying to make two rope lengths - before nightfall.
0:20:07 > 0:20:10- It'll give us a good start - in the morning.
0:20:11 > 0:20:13- Mixed emotions, I'm afraid.
0:20:13 > 0:20:17- You can see how Caradoc - conquered Everest.
0:20:17 > 0:20:19- His toughness shows.
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- After climbing for 18 hours, - he's up again before turning in...
0:20:23 > 0:20:28- ..on the famous 'Garden in the Sky' - shelf, 1,000 feet up The Tower.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40- Hey, Tomos! Are you awake?
0:20:46 > 0:20:50- The weather looks - as if it's changing.
0:20:52 > 0:20:58- I hope it'll remain dry - for us to reach The Tower summit.
0:21:20 > 0:21:22- Hotel California!
0:21:57 > 0:22:01- Ahead of them today, the legendary - headwall, The Great Line.
0:22:02 > 0:22:08- Two parallel cracks that shoot 1000' - up from the shelf to the summit.
0:22:15 > 0:22:16- OK, Tom.
0:22:21 > 0:22:25- James and Franzisca - are using the Welshmen's ropes.
0:22:25 > 0:22:27- They both go first.
0:22:37 > 0:22:39- We're looking directly up this.
0:22:41 > 0:22:43- It was quite hard, though.
0:22:43 > 0:22:45- Harder than I imagined.
0:22:46 > 0:22:51- After 500 feet, - it's a very steep climb.
0:23:13 > 0:23:17- Black lumps are a unique - characteristic of the rock face.
0:23:18 > 0:23:20- The geological term is xenolith.
0:23:20 > 0:23:24- Without them, - climbing would be impossible.
0:23:24 > 0:23:28- But because they're there, - the climbing is thrilling.
0:23:58 > 0:24:00- How's it going, Tom?
0:24:00 > 0:24:01- Steady Eddie.
0:24:02 > 0:24:03- Good.
0:24:04 > 0:24:06- Move your feet.
0:24:47 > 0:24:51- Caradoc still leads - and is in his own little world.
0:24:52 > 0:24:56- But whether you're leading or - following, concentration's a must.
0:25:00 > 0:25:03- No comment.
0:25:05 > 0:25:09- The weather worsens suddenly, - just as the climbing gets tough.
0:25:10 > 0:25:12- It's a make or break situation.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16- What do you want me to do, Tom?
0:25:21 > 0:25:22- Hard to say, isn't it?
0:25:22 > 0:25:24- Hard to say, isn't it? - - Yes. It looks quite bad over there.
0:25:25 > 0:25:26- Is it a shower?
0:25:26 > 0:25:29- Is it a shower? - - It's definitely - going to rain any minute.
0:25:29 > 0:25:31- It's pouring down in the valley.
0:25:37 > 0:25:41- This is hell - after all that climbing.
0:25:49 > 0:25:52- The next length of rope - will be the most difficult.
0:25:52 > 0:25:54- Impossible in the rain.
0:26:04 > 0:26:06-
0:26:11 > 0:26:13- Luckily, it didn't rain.
0:26:13 > 0:26:17- There are three rope lengths - to The Lotus Flower Tower summit.
0:26:17 > 0:26:19- Caradoc's in his element.
0:26:22 > 0:26:25- An exhausted Tom looks on with awe.
0:27:12 > 0:27:15- OK, Tom. I'm safe.
0:27:16 > 0:27:17- I'm safe.
0:27:19 > 0:27:23- Let the purple trail behind you.
0:27:23 > 0:27:27- It could catch on something - in the chimney.
0:27:41 > 0:27:42- BLEEP
0:27:46 > 0:27:49- Sorry. I didn't realise - you were listening.
0:27:52 > 0:27:54- Are you OK, Tomos?
0:27:54 > 0:27:58- Just. I've felt much better. - But there you go.
0:29:21 > 0:29:25- Believe it or not, - it's midnight once again.
0:29:25 > 0:29:27- But the summit is getting closer.
0:29:36 > 0:29:38- At last!
0:29:39 > 0:29:42- I didn't think that would - ever bloody finish.
0:29:57 > 0:29:59- Thanks for your help, James.
0:29:59 > 0:30:00- Thank you.
0:30:01 > 0:30:03- Thank you very much.
0:30:04 > 0:30:06- Thank you very much!
0:30:06 > 0:30:08- Not bad!
0:30:24 > 0:30:25- Wow!
0:30:25 > 0:30:26- Congratulations.
0:30:26 > 0:30:28- Congratulations. - - Congratulations to you.
0:30:28 > 0:30:31- I think you have well done.
0:30:35 > 0:30:37- That's nice.
0:30:51 > 0:30:55- The descent is quicker but it took - all night and a full morning...
0:30:56 > 0:30:59- ..to abseil back down The Tower.
0:31:04 > 0:31:06- It's a Friday night.
0:31:06 > 0:31:08- Down to the club tonight, then!
0:31:10 > 0:31:11- The Bear Club.
0:31:11 > 0:31:14- The Bear Club. - - Join James to drink - a bottle of Yukon Jack.
0:31:14 > 0:31:16- That should get us drunk.
0:31:19 > 0:31:23- After a hard three days, - with very little sleep...
0:31:23 > 0:31:25- ..it's time to relax and wash.
0:31:26 > 0:31:30- It's also time to say farewell - to James and Franzisca...
0:31:30 > 0:31:33- ..with a very welcome bottle - of Yukon Jack.
0:31:34 > 0:31:38- Want a shot? This is Yukon Jack, - direct from Canada!
0:31:43 > 0:31:46- I think we'll have to give this - to the hard core...
0:31:48 > 0:31:53- ..first Welshman on Everest. Freed - every pitch on Lotus Flower Tower.
0:31:53 > 0:31:55- The best, the best.
0:32:03 > 0:32:04- Cheers.
0:32:06 > 0:32:08- I'm going to start looking for gold.
0:32:16 > 0:32:19- Day 14
0:32:32 > 0:32:36- I've just been to the toilet in the - trees. My bum's been eaten alive.
0:32:38 > 0:32:42- South Nahanni River - is five miles from Glacier Lake.
0:32:42 > 0:32:46- It's one of North America's - most famous and legendary lakes.
0:32:46 > 0:32:50- This is possibly Canada's - wildest, and most remote, river.
0:32:51 > 0:32:57- There are 250 miles of deep canyons, - wild white waters...
0:32:57 > 0:33:01- ..and the country's - largest waterfall ahead of them.
0:33:02 > 0:33:05- The Nahanni River legends - are rather sinister.
0:33:06 > 0:33:10- This was the Dene Indians' land - for more than 5,000 years.
0:33:11 > 0:33:13- The Naha tribe's land.
0:33:14 > 0:33:17- Naha means - 'the people who live far away'.
0:33:18 > 0:33:20- They're far away today...
0:33:20 > 0:33:26- ..but further still in 1898 when the - white man came during the gold rush.
0:33:30 > 0:33:34- Back in the old days, there were - romantic stories about the area.
0:33:34 > 0:33:37- It was a mountainous El Dorado, - a witch's dream.
0:33:39 > 0:33:40- As a result...
0:33:40 > 0:33:44- ..the stories that put South Nahanni - River on the map are very different.
0:33:45 > 0:33:49- Sinister stories of mining, - deceiving and murdering.
0:33:49 > 0:33:52- About the discovery - of headless corpses.
0:33:53 > 0:33:58- The first 3 days on the river were - fairly boring and unadventurous.
0:33:59 > 0:34:01- But then...
0:34:01 > 0:34:05- ..the wild white waters of - Na-Ili Cho, the great falling water.
0:34:09 > 0:34:14- Ndambadezha was a Naha god, a spirit - that protected them from harm.
0:34:15 > 0:34:18- It was believed he lived here, - in the earth's core.
0:34:19 > 0:34:24- It's within the boundaries of the - National Park, established in 1974.
0:34:25 > 0:34:29- The valley is a World Heritage Site.
0:34:31 > 0:34:34- This is the journey - Caradoc and Tom face. - 10 m
0:34:34 > 0:34:38- They begin at Rabbitkettle, - on the National Park border...
0:34:38 > 0:34:41- ..following the river - to Nahanni Butte.
0:34:42 > 0:34:47- The canyons they pass were named - after the original adventurers.
0:34:51 > 0:34:53- It's a better day today, Caradoc.
0:34:53 > 0:34:56- Yes. The equipment's drying out.
0:34:57 > 0:34:58- At last.
0:34:59 > 0:35:02- We're going at quite a good speed, - I'd say.
0:35:02 > 0:35:07- The water will be much faster - and more fun in the second part.
0:35:08 > 0:35:10- It should be.
0:35:11 > 0:35:13- Not too much fun, though, I hope.
0:35:13 > 0:35:15- As long as we don't ruin it.
0:35:15 > 0:35:18- I'm not too fond of wild waters.
0:35:40 > 0:35:42-
0:35:46 > 0:35:48- Day 17
0:35:53 > 0:35:57- This is the magnitude - of Na-Ili Cho.
0:35:57 > 0:36:00- Four acres - of cascading white waters.
0:36:00 > 0:36:03- It's twice as high as Niagara.
0:36:03 > 0:36:06- Its vibrations can be felt - for miles.
0:36:07 > 0:36:09- Which side do you think - we should take it?
0:36:09 > 0:36:11- Which side do you think - we should take it? - - Right, I think.
0:36:11 > 0:36:12- Yes?
0:36:12 > 0:36:13- Yes? - - Yes.
0:36:14 > 0:36:19- If you paddle strongly enough from - the right, we won't go far wrong.
0:36:20 > 0:36:24- We'll stop on the island - for a bite to eat and check it out.
0:36:25 > 0:36:26- Yes, yes!
0:36:28 > 0:36:30- Worth seeing, isn't it?
0:36:31 > 0:36:36- Very amusing, lads. Not that - I believed you for one minute.
0:36:37 > 0:36:41- The first white men - to see the waterfall...
0:36:41 > 0:36:44- ..were Albert Faille - and R M Patterson.
0:36:45 > 0:36:50- Faille died in 1973 in Fort Simpson, - where Caradoc and Tom set out.
0:36:52 > 0:36:55- His wooden cabin and boat - are still there.
0:36:57 > 0:37:01- He was born in Minnesota but - his family hailed from Switzerland.
0:37:03 > 0:37:05- He was an excellent forester.
0:37:05 > 0:37:09- He mined for gold - throughout his life.
0:37:13 > 0:37:17- 'Every time Faille goes up river, - he'll never come back.'
0:37:18 > 0:37:22- That was the general consensus. - But back he came, for 46 years.
0:37:22 > 0:37:26- Sometimes he spent - a whole winter in the wild.
0:37:28 > 0:37:33- When this film was shot in 1962, - he was 73...
0:37:34 > 0:37:37- ..and on his eighth journey - past the waterfall.
0:37:50 > 0:37:55- He always carried enough wood - to build another boat...
0:37:55 > 0:37:59- ..at the higher level of the - waterfall. This would take a week.
0:38:00 > 0:38:04- He'd continue up river in search - of his gold and El Dorado.
0:38:22 > 0:38:25- Patterson was a young Englishman.
0:38:26 > 0:38:29- He emigrated to Edmonton in 1927.
0:38:29 > 0:38:32- His search was for gold - and adventure, too.
0:38:34 > 0:38:37- 'Difficult to Kill' - is what the Indians called him.
0:38:37 > 0:38:41- Murder is rife - in the valley's folklore.
0:38:42 > 0:38:44- The natives said to avoid the river.
0:38:45 > 0:38:49- Faille and Patterson - ignored their advice in 1927.
0:38:50 > 0:38:53- They ventured up river - for the first time...
0:38:53 > 0:38:55- ..counting the canyons they passed.
0:38:56 > 0:39:00- Patterson wrote of his adventures - in his classic book...
0:39:00 > 0:39:02- ..'The Dangerous River'.
0:39:02 > 0:39:06- To the Welshmen, this was - the start of the exciting canyons.
0:39:06 > 0:39:08- I'll secure this - and pass the stuff.
0:39:10 > 0:39:14- We came out sooner - than I expected. It was alright.
0:39:22 > 0:39:23- OK.
0:39:27 > 0:39:29- To the right.
0:39:29 > 0:39:31- Let the head come around.
0:39:44 > 0:39:45- Another soaking.
0:39:47 > 0:39:48- This side!
0:39:49 > 0:39:50- BLEEP
0:39:54 > 0:39:56- The nose around.
0:40:07 > 0:40:09- Right or left?
0:40:09 > 0:40:11- Right or left? - - Left a touch.
0:40:11 > 0:40:14- Left a bit more - to avoid the big stuff ahead.
0:40:17 > 0:40:18- Some of the waves are coming across.
0:40:18 > 0:40:19- Some of the waves are coming across. - - Yes.
0:40:20 > 0:40:21- BLEEP
0:40:28 > 0:40:29- Come in, Twm.
0:40:32 > 0:40:33- You OK?
0:40:36 > 0:40:38- Turn around, head into it.
0:40:45 > 0:40:48- Are you OK? - We had enough bloody action there!
0:40:50 > 0:40:53- There are two things - I can't understand.
0:40:54 > 0:40:56- I didn't lose my cap or my paddle!
0:40:57 > 0:40:58- Good boy!
0:41:00 > 0:41:02- Nose into it.
0:41:15 > 0:41:17- I'll have to get dry.
0:41:23 > 0:41:24- You're soaking wet!
0:41:25 > 0:41:27- Look at you laughing!
0:41:27 > 0:41:30- The best handspring - I've seen in ages!
0:41:31 > 0:41:33- I'm starting to enjoy myself.
0:41:33 > 0:41:36- I'm starting to enjoy myself. - - Let's check it out first.
0:41:38 > 0:41:42- 'The Figure 8' is the most difficult - of the river's wild waters...
0:41:42 > 0:41:44- ..according to Faille and Patterson.
0:41:44 > 0:41:48- The dangerous flow played endless - tricks on their old 30 foot boats.
0:42:12 > 0:42:14- What did Tom and Caradoc make of it?
0:42:17 > 0:42:18- Brilliant.
0:42:19 > 0:42:20- Perfect.
0:42:22 > 0:42:24- It's hard enough going down river...
0:42:24 > 0:42:27- ..without having to drag - a canoe up this vast river.
0:43:24 > 0:43:26- We're entering the second canyon.
0:43:27 > 0:43:29- This is the second canyon.
0:43:30 > 0:43:33- Deadman's Valley is the other side.
0:43:34 > 0:43:36- I'm looking forward to that place.
0:43:36 > 0:43:40- That's where the McLeod brothers - lost their heads.
0:43:41 > 0:43:44- Didn't Patterson spend - a winter in Deadman's Valley?
0:43:44 > 0:43:47- That's where they built their cabin.
0:43:48 > 0:43:52- Patterson and Gordon Mathews - spent the winter of 1929 there.
0:43:52 > 0:43:54- They hunted, didn't they?
0:43:54 > 0:43:55- They hunted, didn't they? - - Yes.
0:43:56 > 0:43:57- I bet winter's hard up here.
0:43:57 > 0:43:58- I bet winter's hard up here. - - Terrible.
0:44:01 > 0:44:03- They would hunt in these valleys.
0:44:04 > 0:44:08- They sold everything - to the fur trade for 10,500.
0:44:10 > 0:44:11- Which year was that?
0:44:11 > 0:44:12- Which year was that? - - 1929.
0:44:14 > 0:44:16- That was a great deal of money.
0:44:17 > 0:44:19- That's Headless Creek.
0:44:20 > 0:44:23- They haven't discovered - what really happened.
0:44:25 > 0:44:27- This is the Nahanni's big story.
0:44:28 > 0:44:33- Charlie discovered the bodies of his - brothers, Frank and Willie McLeod.
0:44:33 > 0:44:35- Both were headless.
0:44:35 > 0:44:39- There are reports - of a mysterious third person.
0:44:39 > 0:44:43- He's been accused of their murders - and stealing their gold.
0:44:43 > 0:44:46- No-one will ever know the truth.
0:44:48 > 0:44:52- But freezing temperature, - starvation and the bears...
0:44:52 > 0:44:55- ..could shed some light - on the mystery.
0:44:58 > 0:45:03- Whatever the truth, the valley was - temporarily called Headless Valley.
0:45:04 > 0:45:08- Eventually, the story - became responsible for naming...
0:45:08 > 0:45:12- ..The Headless Range, - Funeral Range and Deadman's Valley.
0:45:14 > 0:45:16- Are you enjoying it, so far?
0:45:17 > 0:45:19- The whole thing's been incredible.
0:45:20 > 0:45:22- Hold on!
0:45:22 > 0:45:25- You're at it again! - Since when have you been doing this?
0:45:25 > 0:45:27- We could strike gold, Tom!
0:45:28 > 0:45:30- Things are sparkling in here.
0:45:31 > 0:45:31- Really?
0:45:31 > 0:45:33- Really? - - This is where the story began.
0:45:36 > 0:45:40- Just as long as we don't lose - our heads, like the McLeod brothers.
0:45:41 > 0:45:43- We can take something back with us.
0:45:43 > 0:45:44- Let's stay put for the last 2 days!
0:45:44 > 0:45:46- Let's stay put for the last 2 days! - - Look at this!
0:45:47 > 0:45:49- Something- is- shining in there.
0:45:50 > 0:45:54- It's alright for you. - I've only got porridge!
0:45:54 > 0:45:57- I'll give you a percentage.
0:45:57 > 0:45:59- I'll wash the dishes first, - then I'll start planning for gold.
0:45:59 > 0:46:01- I'll wash the dishes first, - then I'll start planning for gold. - - Oh, well. There's nothing there.
0:46:03 > 0:46:05- Back to counting fish.
0:46:06 > 0:46:10- Despite the McLeod brothers, - Patterson, Faille and others...
0:46:10 > 0:46:14- ..very little gold was mined - on the shores of the Nahanni.
0:46:21 > 0:46:23- Those are the only - two big waters left.
0:46:23 > 0:46:25- Those are the only - two big waters left. - - The nasty ones.
0:46:26 > 0:46:29- Make sure you've secured - everything with the rope.
0:46:30 > 0:46:31- Should I tie myself this time?
0:46:31 > 0:46:32- Should I tie myself this time? - - Yes!
0:46:47 > 0:46:51- They were right - - the last canyon is the best.
0:46:53 > 0:46:55- We won't forget - this place in a hurry.
0:46:55 > 0:46:57- We won't forget - this place in a hurry. - - I don't think so.
0:46:58 > 0:46:59- Definitely not.
0:47:28 > 0:47:31- A natural hot spring, - flowing from the rock.
0:47:31 > 0:47:33- But it stinks.
0:47:36 > 0:47:40- Today was a good day. - I enjoyed the first canyon.
0:47:42 > 0:47:45- It didn't look - as if it would finish.
0:47:46 > 0:47:48- Carried on and on all the time.
0:47:59 > 0:48:02- Do you think The Splits - have finished?
0:48:02 > 0:48:06- Looks like it. It's all become one.
0:48:07 > 0:48:10- And the river - has slowed down considerably.
0:48:10 > 0:48:11- Yes.
0:48:11 > 0:48:16- We've a hard 15-20kms ahead of us - until we reach Nahanni Butte.
0:48:16 > 0:48:17- Yes.
0:48:20 > 0:48:22- The journey nears its conclusion.
0:48:23 > 0:48:26- They took six days - less than expected. - Day 22
0:48:27 > 0:48:31- And yes, Caradoc Jones and - Tom Thomas have a rough idea...
0:48:32 > 0:48:35- ..of the great task - the old adventurers faced.
0:48:35 > 0:48:41- The Lotus Flower Tower, The Nahanni, - and Canada- were- big.
0:48:45 > 0:48:47- The landing.
0:48:50 > 0:48:53- There you go, mate. - That's that done.
0:48:54 > 0:48:56- In the bag.
0:48:56 > 0:48:58- Nahanni Butte Store...
0:48:59 > 0:49:01- ..250 miles later.
0:49:02 > 0:49:03- Yes.
0:49:03 > 0:49:04- Not bad. Nice one, mate.
0:49:04 > 0:49:05- Not bad. Nice one, mate. - - Thanks!
0:49:17 > 0:49:19- S4C Subtitles by- GWEAD