Episode 4

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0:00:02 > 0:00:05Welcome to Getaways, the show where you lot call the shots.

0:00:05 > 0:00:09And this week we're in Puglia in southern Italy.

0:00:09 > 0:00:10On our website,

0:00:10 > 0:00:13we asked you to share your top travel tips for this part of

0:00:13 > 0:00:18the world and you've been e-mailing and texting your suggestions.

0:00:19 > 0:00:24Puglia, also known as Apulia, is one of Italy's lesser-known holiday destinations.

0:00:25 > 0:00:29With its olive groves, whitewashed towns and unforgiving heat,

0:00:29 > 0:00:31it can seem more Greek than Italian.

0:00:33 > 0:00:35But when it comes to the food, make no mistake...

0:00:35 > 0:00:37- ITALIAN ACCENT:- We're in Italy. - Mm-hmm.

0:00:39 > 0:00:42In this week's programme, we visit a unique town.

0:00:44 > 0:00:46Try our hand at Italian cooking...

0:00:47 > 0:00:50Venture underground to explore an impressive cave system...

0:00:51 > 0:00:54And I'm taking a short break closer to home to discover

0:00:54 > 0:00:57what's on offer around Strangford Lough in County Down.

0:00:59 > 0:01:02To get to Puglia, there's a three and a half hour flight

0:01:02 > 0:01:05from Dublin into the city of Bari, the region's capital

0:01:05 > 0:01:07and the main gateway for holiday-makers

0:01:07 > 0:01:09arriving in this part of Italy.

0:01:15 > 0:01:16Our trip to Puglia begins with a visit

0:01:16 > 0:01:19to one of the region's main tourist attractions.

0:01:21 > 0:01:24It's a town that looks extraordinary.

0:01:24 > 0:01:27This is Alberobello, famous for its whitewash buildings

0:01:27 > 0:01:29known as trullo houses.

0:01:32 > 0:01:35There are trullo houses dotted all over the centre of the region,

0:01:35 > 0:01:39but a lot of you left comments on our website saying we should come

0:01:39 > 0:01:42to the capital of trullo country, the village of Alberobello.

0:01:42 > 0:01:46Samantha Flaherty from Galway was so impressed with this quirky

0:01:46 > 0:01:49architecture she described it as a magical place.

0:01:49 > 0:01:51And you're not wrong, Samantha.

0:01:51 > 0:01:54When you walk around, you do kind of expect to bump into a wizard

0:01:54 > 0:01:56or a wee hobbit or something. It's fantastic.

0:01:57 > 0:02:00A trullo is a simple dry stone, walled,

0:02:00 > 0:02:04conical construction with a domed roof topped by a cone or pinnacle.

0:02:05 > 0:02:08Now, you've obviously heard of dry stone walls from back home,

0:02:08 > 0:02:10but this is taking it to another level.

0:02:10 > 0:02:13Now, the land was given free, but to avoid paying housing tax,

0:02:13 > 0:02:16the residents built these houses without mortar.

0:02:16 > 0:02:18Basically the stones are freestanding.

0:02:18 > 0:02:21The most important part is this kind of conical

0:02:21 > 0:02:23sort of stone at the top known as the keystone.

0:02:23 > 0:02:26You take that out, the whole thing collapses.

0:02:26 > 0:02:29But there is no chance of that happening, because this

0:02:29 > 0:02:32entire site is now UNESCO-protected as a World Heritage Site.

0:02:35 > 0:02:38The original trulli were basic shelters for peasant farmers,

0:02:38 > 0:02:42who worked the land around Alberobello.

0:02:42 > 0:02:44There are around a thousand trulli here,

0:02:44 > 0:02:47subdivided into two neighbourhoods.

0:02:47 > 0:02:50One remains residential with private homes

0:02:50 > 0:02:54and the other is full of trulli that have been converted into shops

0:02:54 > 0:02:57selling souvenirs and local crafts.

0:02:57 > 0:02:58And...

0:02:58 > 0:03:00Not only do they look a little like igloos,

0:03:00 > 0:03:02they work in the same way, too,

0:03:02 > 0:03:04keeping the place warm in the winter

0:03:04 > 0:03:05and keeping the sun out in the summer.

0:03:12 > 0:03:16Puglia has two coastlines - one on the Ionian Sea

0:03:16 > 0:03:19and the other on the Adriatic.

0:03:19 > 0:03:23In fact, Puglia has more shoreline than any other region in Italy.

0:03:26 > 0:03:30There are huge variety of beaches all the way along the coast,

0:03:30 > 0:03:33with plenty of rocky little coves where you can take a dip.

0:03:33 > 0:03:35The further south you head there are more wild beaches,

0:03:35 > 0:03:38because they are protected from overdevelopment.

0:03:38 > 0:03:41So, you can find a little place that's completely isolated

0:03:41 > 0:03:43and it feels like you have the beach to yourself.

0:03:43 > 0:03:45From April to October,

0:03:45 > 0:03:48days spent at the beach are a way of life for Italians.

0:03:48 > 0:03:52This beach of Monopoli is free to use, but rocky in parts.

0:03:54 > 0:03:58But for a few Euro you can always go to a Lido or a beach club.

0:03:58 > 0:04:01It's very family friendly, the water is clean and safe

0:04:01 > 0:04:04and you will find plenty of food, drinks and water sports on offer.

0:04:06 > 0:04:08This is the Lido Pellerossa,

0:04:08 > 0:04:11which was recommended by Ruth and Tony from Dublin.

0:04:11 > 0:04:15It costs 16 Euro to rent a sun lounger and an umbrella for a day.

0:04:21 > 0:04:23Puglia really is a hidden gem.

0:04:23 > 0:04:27And another of the striking towns in this region is Ostuni,

0:04:27 > 0:04:29or La Citta Bianca.

0:04:30 > 0:04:34Ostuni is one of the most beautiful cities in southern Italy.

0:04:34 > 0:04:37Perched high on the hill, it's surrounded by white defensive walls

0:04:37 > 0:04:41and whitewashed houses and is known simply as the White City.

0:04:41 > 0:04:43With a coastline full of beaches,

0:04:43 > 0:04:45it's the perfect place to base your holiday.

0:04:47 > 0:04:52Ostuni's streets and alleyways are full of small gift and craft shops

0:04:52 > 0:04:55where you might pick up leather goods and antiques.

0:04:56 > 0:05:00La Citta Bianca's had a very dramatic and indeed violent history.

0:05:00 > 0:05:03It was completely destroyed, rebuilt by the Greeks,

0:05:03 > 0:05:07occupied by the Romans, then the Ostrogoths, then the Normans,

0:05:07 > 0:05:10it was attacked by the Turks and sold to a tyrant.

0:05:10 > 0:05:13But it is the churches and the castles, built in the Middle Ages,

0:05:13 > 0:05:16that have survived intact and dominate the landscape here.

0:05:20 > 0:05:23We recommend you make your way to the top of the old town,

0:05:23 > 0:05:25where the cathedral on the tiny square is a rare example

0:05:25 > 0:05:29of Gothic architecture in a land full of Romanesque churches.

0:05:35 > 0:05:38Away from the coast, the landscape is dominated by olive groves.

0:05:38 > 0:05:42And according to Steffi Kapoza from Dublin,

0:05:42 > 0:05:44Puglia has the best quality olive oil in Italy.

0:05:44 > 0:05:47In Puglia you don't just get to eat the food,

0:05:47 > 0:05:49you get to experience the culture that produces it.

0:05:49 > 0:05:54And nothing defines this region more than the 60 million olive trees

0:05:54 > 0:05:56dotted all the way around from north to south.

0:05:56 > 0:05:59The sheer size and volume of trees is amazing,

0:05:59 > 0:06:03but some of them are actually over thousands of years old.

0:06:04 > 0:06:08I met up with Armando Balestrazzi to find out more about the tradition

0:06:08 > 0:06:11and heritage of olive growing in this region.

0:06:12 > 0:06:16When you drive around Apuglia, there are olive trees everywhere,

0:06:16 > 0:06:20the biggest olive trees I've ever seen, they look really old,

0:06:20 > 0:06:23but they're still abundant, they are still creating olives, right?

0:06:23 > 0:06:26Apuglia is the only one region in Italy of 21 regions,

0:06:26 > 0:06:29no river, no lake, no sweet water.

0:06:29 > 0:06:32- Three months, four months, five months without rain.- Mm-hmm.

0:06:32 > 0:06:35Everything dies. Everything yellow.

0:06:35 > 0:06:38The olive trees survive, absolutely, no problem.

0:06:38 > 0:06:41We say no Puglian man has ever seen a dying olive tree,

0:06:41 > 0:06:44because we normally live only 100 years.

0:06:44 > 0:06:47- They, 2,000 years, never die. - ANGELA LAUGHS

0:06:47 > 0:06:48And never stop to produce.

0:06:48 > 0:06:53120 people from all over the world have adopted our olive trees.

0:06:53 > 0:06:56They are given the name of the grandson of the grandmother,

0:06:56 > 0:06:58we put the label with the name,

0:06:58 > 0:07:01they go away with the photo, the certificate, with the T-shirt

0:07:01 > 0:07:05and to receive the production of this olive tree.

0:07:05 > 0:07:09And Puglia produces over 40% of the olive oil that's

0:07:09 > 0:07:11exported around the world.

0:07:11 > 0:07:14The main producer in Italy, 40%,

0:07:14 > 0:07:18the main producer in the world, 12% of the world.

0:07:18 > 0:07:22As well as running the olive grove, Armando also owns a masseria,

0:07:22 > 0:07:25a converted farmhouse where you can come to stay.

0:07:25 > 0:07:29Most of the masserias in this area have been transformed and converted

0:07:29 > 0:07:32into luxury accommodation for tourists to stay in.

0:07:32 > 0:07:36With their own vineyards, olive trees and vegetable gardens,

0:07:36 > 0:07:38guests get to eat the produce grown on the estate.

0:07:38 > 0:07:42It's a really authentic and brilliant experience

0:07:42 > 0:07:45that's utterly unpretentious and totally indulgent.

0:07:45 > 0:07:47One major reason you're likely to visit Puglia

0:07:47 > 0:07:51is to treat yourself to the area's amazing food.

0:07:51 > 0:07:54The region is known for its cookery schools where foodies can

0:07:54 > 0:07:58pamper their passion for all things pasta and more.

0:08:00 > 0:08:04I'm making a visit to another masseria to visit a cookery school

0:08:04 > 0:08:09where guests are shown how to use home-grown ingredients to create authentic Italian dishes.

0:08:09 > 0:08:10Thank you!

0:08:12 > 0:08:15What do we call these cherries, what kind of cherries are these?

0:08:15 > 0:08:17We call these cherries the ferrovia, which is perhaps...

0:08:17 > 0:08:20Marina Saponari offers individual or group classes

0:08:20 > 0:08:23to tourists who cook and then eat the dishes that she would

0:08:23 > 0:08:26prepare daily for her own kitchen table.

0:08:26 > 0:08:29So, when did you open this as a cookery school? How long ago?

0:08:29 > 0:08:33Er, we started in 2011, with two people,

0:08:33 > 0:08:36one coming from the UK and one from the Netherlands.

0:08:36 > 0:08:40How does the food in Puglia differ to the rest of Italy?

0:08:40 > 0:08:45It's different because we use above all many vegetables.

0:08:45 > 0:08:49You know, Puglia originally was a very, very poor region

0:08:49 > 0:08:52and the main resource coming from agriculture.

0:08:52 > 0:08:56- Marina, I'm guessing because you have me stoning many cherries... - MARINA LAUGHS

0:08:56 > 0:08:59- we're going to be cooking the cherries today?- Yes.

0:08:59 > 0:09:01- OK, what are we having? - Now we will prepare...panzerotto.

0:09:01 > 0:09:06Panzerotto generally is filled with mozzarella and tomatoes

0:09:06 > 0:09:09but we are in the season of cherries, so we will

0:09:09 > 0:09:15stuff our panzerotti with cherry jam and fresh ricotta cheese.

0:09:15 > 0:09:19- And this is just a flour and water dough?- Yeah.- No eggs?- No, no eggs.

0:09:19 > 0:09:21Absolutely, only flour.

0:09:22 > 0:09:23Olive oil.

0:09:24 > 0:09:27And prepare a small ball to work...

0:09:29 > 0:09:33We need just to prepare the filling with the fresh ricotta cheese.

0:09:35 > 0:09:36Cinnamon.

0:09:39 > 0:09:41- Oh, wow, that smell is great.- Yes.

0:09:41 > 0:09:43- The smell of the cinnamon is amazing.- Our lemon.

0:09:45 > 0:09:47We'll mix all together...

0:09:47 > 0:09:48All right.

0:09:48 > 0:09:50..with one yolk.

0:09:50 > 0:09:51- So, you can mix together.- Sure.

0:09:51 > 0:09:53So, the filling is ready.

0:09:55 > 0:09:56Now to roll.

0:09:56 > 0:10:01- Ricotta cream cheese.- What do you think of that, good enough?- Yes.

0:10:01 > 0:10:03And one teaspoon of cherry jam.

0:10:04 > 0:10:08Press...very well with your finger.

0:10:08 > 0:10:12- Right. Not quite as good as yours, but...- That's good, that's good.

0:10:12 > 0:10:14For a first time it's all right.

0:10:14 > 0:10:18- You can just press all panzerotti in the sugar.- Sure.

0:10:20 > 0:10:23- Just dip them in each side? - Yes. One each. Yes.

0:10:23 > 0:10:26- From both sides, yes, be careful because they are hot.- Yeah.

0:10:26 > 0:10:29Wow. They look fantastic.

0:10:29 > 0:10:32The proof of any pudding is in the eating.

0:10:36 > 0:10:37Mmm!

0:10:39 > 0:10:42It's so simple, just ricotta cheese, cherry made into jam.

0:10:44 > 0:10:46That is heavenly. I can see the appeal of this.

0:10:46 > 0:10:49Tasting something you've made with your own very hands.

0:10:50 > 0:10:52Molto bene.

0:10:57 > 0:11:01Next on my list of sites in Puglia are the caves of Castellana,

0:11:01 > 0:11:05found half an hour south-east of Bari.

0:11:05 > 0:11:07Tara Burns from Dunleary was just one of you

0:11:07 > 0:11:09who recommended visiting the caves.

0:11:14 > 0:11:16This is the entrance cave, La Grave.

0:11:16 > 0:11:19It was largely undiscovered up until 1938.

0:11:19 > 0:11:22There was a giant hole on the surface that people knew about,

0:11:22 > 0:11:25but they were terrified to enter because of the mist

0:11:25 > 0:11:28and the bats that came from below the surface.

0:11:28 > 0:11:30Back then, it was known as the entrance to hell.

0:11:37 > 0:11:42This is one of Italy's most spectacular natural underground networks.

0:11:42 > 0:11:45And it's one of the area's biggest tourist attractions.

0:11:46 > 0:11:49Over 15 million tourists from all over the world

0:11:49 > 0:11:50have visited these caves.

0:11:52 > 0:11:55You can take various walking tours of the cave system,

0:11:55 > 0:11:56which will cost from ten Euro.

0:11:57 > 0:12:00All along the route there are columns,

0:12:00 > 0:12:02stalagmites and stalactites.

0:12:02 > 0:12:04It's like a great underground cathedral.

0:12:09 > 0:12:13This is the White Cave and it's the highlight of the tour.

0:12:13 > 0:12:15It's apparently the whitest and the brightest cave

0:12:15 > 0:12:18in the entire world, and it's pretty magical.

0:12:25 > 0:12:27Well, if you fancy something a bit closer to home,

0:12:27 > 0:12:29check out this week's short break.

0:12:32 > 0:12:36I've come to the very tip of the Ards Peninsula in County Down

0:12:36 > 0:12:38to find out more about what's on offer

0:12:38 > 0:12:41along the shores of Strangford Lough,

0:12:41 > 0:12:44the largest sea inlet in the British Isles.

0:12:44 > 0:12:46This is the southern end of Strangford Lough

0:12:46 > 0:12:48in the pretty town of Portaferry.

0:12:48 > 0:12:51This part behind me is called the Narrows

0:12:51 > 0:12:54and connects Portaferry here and the place I'm headed for over there.

0:12:56 > 0:12:59The Strangford Ferry is the oldest continual ferry

0:12:59 > 0:13:03service in Ireland and connects Portaferry and Strangford

0:13:03 > 0:13:05with regular crossings every half-hour.

0:13:05 > 0:13:07It takes a breezy ten minutes.

0:13:09 > 0:13:12As you'd imagine, there is a strong sailing tradition here,

0:13:12 > 0:13:16which is in full flow every summer during the Portaferry Gala

0:13:16 > 0:13:17and the Narrows Regatta Series.

0:13:21 > 0:13:23Strangford Village is popular for day-trippers

0:13:23 > 0:13:27looking for a hearty lunch or a pint of the black stuff.

0:13:27 > 0:13:30And just beyond Strangford Village is where I'm headed for.

0:13:30 > 0:13:34Towards one of the most famous addresses on the Lough.

0:13:36 > 0:13:40Castle Ward is a walled domain running along the Lough.

0:13:40 > 0:13:43Its 820 acres are made up of wooded areas,

0:13:43 > 0:13:47landscape gardens and historic buildings.

0:13:47 > 0:13:50The centrepiece has got to be this 18th-century mansion,

0:13:50 > 0:13:52once home to the Ward family.

0:13:52 > 0:13:55It was built by the first Viscount Bangor and his wife,

0:13:55 > 0:13:59who had, let's just say, very different views on things.

0:14:01 > 0:14:05To find out more about what makes this house so intriguing,

0:14:05 > 0:14:08I met up with tour guide Clare Rose.

0:14:08 > 0:14:11It's a gorgeous house, just in terms of its architecture,

0:14:11 > 0:14:13but the special thing about here at Castle Ward

0:14:13 > 0:14:16is the fact that it is split directly in half

0:14:16 > 0:14:18between the two sides of the house that built it.

0:14:18 > 0:14:23So, Bernard Ward, the first Viscount of Bangor and his wife,

0:14:23 > 0:14:27Lady Ann Ward, who came over from Bath.

0:14:27 > 0:14:29So, they didn't agree on a lot of things,

0:14:29 > 0:14:31but one thing they compromised on was this house.

0:14:31 > 0:14:33So, one side of the house,

0:14:33 > 0:14:36inside-out, up-down is his classical Georgian style

0:14:36 > 0:14:41and the other side, inside-out, up-down, is her Gothic side.

0:14:44 > 0:14:48This is the entrance hall. It's Classical Georgian in style.

0:14:48 > 0:14:50But this way, it's a very different story.

0:14:52 > 0:14:53DOOR CREAKS

0:14:55 > 0:14:56The boudoir.

0:14:56 > 0:15:00This is probably the most notable room on the Gothic side

0:15:00 > 0:15:01and it's quite amazing.

0:15:01 > 0:15:05Same fabric all over the walls, on the curtains.

0:15:06 > 0:15:08Look at the ceiling.

0:15:10 > 0:15:11It's amazing.

0:15:14 > 0:15:18There are guided tours available in the afternoons in summer.

0:15:18 > 0:15:20A 15-minute tour costs £6.50.

0:15:23 > 0:15:27Make sure you don't miss this unique two-sided house.

0:15:31 > 0:15:34In the grounds you'll find the original stable yard with

0:15:34 > 0:15:37coach houses and even a Victorian laundry.

0:15:37 > 0:15:39There is also a gift shop and cafe.

0:15:40 > 0:15:44And the historic barn and farmyard at the back of the estate

0:15:44 > 0:15:47have plenty for kids with indoor and outdoor play areas.

0:15:51 > 0:15:53And if this place looks rather familiar,

0:15:53 > 0:15:57it's because Castle Ward was used as the location for Winterfell

0:15:57 > 0:15:59in the hit series Game of Thrones.

0:16:00 > 0:16:02And if you fancy becoming an extra,

0:16:02 > 0:16:04then you can learn a very handy skill.

0:16:07 > 0:16:11You even get to dress up and these lads take it pretty seriously.

0:16:17 > 0:16:18Yeah, don't worry, I got this.

0:16:20 > 0:16:21Where did that go?

0:16:22 > 0:16:23Oh...

0:16:25 > 0:16:26Not so good.

0:16:28 > 0:16:31After a couple of near misses, I'm getting the hang of it.

0:16:32 > 0:16:34Boom! SHE LAUGHS

0:16:34 > 0:16:36Oh, my God, that was beautiful.

0:16:37 > 0:16:41As well as archery, there is another activity to try here,

0:16:41 > 0:16:45as 21 miles of new cycling have just opened.

0:16:45 > 0:16:47I'm taking the short trail today, which brings me

0:16:47 > 0:16:51right along the edge of the Lough and it's geared towards families,

0:16:51 > 0:16:53so apparently it's not too difficult.

0:16:53 > 0:16:54Let's see.

0:16:59 > 0:17:03There are three colour-coded trails to help you decide which

0:17:03 > 0:17:04track best suits you.

0:17:04 > 0:17:08The all-ability trail I'm following is flat and wide,

0:17:08 > 0:17:11suitable for even the rustiest of riders.

0:17:13 > 0:17:15Cycling is a perfect way to take in the views of the estate

0:17:15 > 0:17:17and they are serious.

0:17:17 > 0:17:21Around every single corner, there is something wildly different.

0:17:21 > 0:17:24If you're looking for something a little more difficult,

0:17:24 > 0:17:28try the boundary trail, which has climbs and takes a bit more skill.

0:17:29 > 0:17:32This is Audley's Castle, also seen in Game of Thrones

0:17:32 > 0:17:34and the movie Dracula Untold.

0:17:34 > 0:17:37It's pretty cool, it's like I'm actually on a film set.

0:17:39 > 0:17:42If you want to stay in Castle Ward overnight,

0:17:42 > 0:17:44then you can try some camping pods.

0:17:45 > 0:17:48A standard pod costs from £38 per night

0:17:48 > 0:17:49and you need to bring your own bedding.

0:17:51 > 0:17:55There is also a site for pitching tents or pulling up a caravan.

0:17:59 > 0:18:02If you're staying for a while and fancy a paddle,

0:18:02 > 0:18:04why not hire a Canadian canoe?

0:18:05 > 0:18:07This is the perfect way to explore the Lough.

0:18:07 > 0:18:11It's a little bit misty, but it kind of makes it even more beautiful.

0:18:15 > 0:18:21A half-day hire of a canoe, paddle and buoyancy aid costs from £14.50.

0:18:26 > 0:18:29This week we are in Puglia in southern Italy to discover

0:18:29 > 0:18:32more about a destination that is a bit off the beaten track

0:18:32 > 0:18:33in Italian tourism terms.

0:18:35 > 0:18:38So far we've toured the magical town of Alberobello

0:18:38 > 0:18:40to see its quirky trullo houses...

0:18:42 > 0:18:44..visited some of the world's oldest olive groves,

0:18:44 > 0:18:48and gone underground to explore the magnificent caves of Castellana.

0:18:50 > 0:18:52Our next stop in Pavilion is Lecce,

0:18:52 > 0:18:56home to some of the best Baroque architecture in Italy.

0:18:56 > 0:18:59The soft, pinkish limestone of Lecce is easy to work with.

0:18:59 > 0:19:01From the 15th century,

0:19:01 > 0:19:04Lecce was one of the most important cities in southern Italy.

0:19:06 > 0:19:09By the 17th century, its buildings and monuments

0:19:09 > 0:19:11were covered in ornate Baroque carvings.

0:19:15 > 0:19:19Lecce is a small town in the south of Puglia and for its size,

0:19:19 > 0:19:22it's well-known for its high concentration in Baroque architecture,

0:19:22 > 0:19:24mainly in its 100 churches.

0:19:24 > 0:19:26I mean, you literally cannot turn a corner

0:19:26 > 0:19:29without seeing some example of chiselled magnificence.

0:19:29 > 0:19:33So much so that Lecce has become known as the Florence of the South.

0:19:33 > 0:19:35BICYCLE BELL RINGS

0:19:35 > 0:19:37But one thing Lecce doesn't have

0:19:37 > 0:19:39that Florence suffers from are the crowds.

0:19:40 > 0:19:44This Puglian town is much easier to navigate than its Tuscan cousin.

0:19:46 > 0:19:49By the end of the Baroque era, when their skills were no longer

0:19:49 > 0:19:53required on grand buildings, the impoverished craftsmen

0:19:53 > 0:19:55turned to cheaper and more accessible materials

0:19:55 > 0:20:00such as clay and paper to create smaller objects.

0:20:00 > 0:20:03This led to the tradition of producing toys and dolls

0:20:03 > 0:20:04out of papier mache.

0:20:05 > 0:20:09Papier mache is generally something we associate with children's

0:20:09 > 0:20:11birthday parties or maybe art projects in school,

0:20:11 > 0:20:15but here in Lecce, a tradition has turned into a little industry.

0:20:15 > 0:20:17It started back in the 1700s

0:20:17 > 0:20:20when they created religious iconography,

0:20:20 > 0:20:22little figurines for cribs and they still do that

0:20:22 > 0:20:26and they are available here, but they also have local peasant

0:20:26 > 0:20:29figures, bouquets of flowers and little clowns

0:20:29 > 0:20:31and they are all starting from ten quid,

0:20:31 > 0:20:33so you can have your very own piece of Lecce art.

0:20:33 > 0:20:35And it lasts forever.

0:20:40 > 0:20:42This is the Duomo of Lecce,

0:20:42 > 0:20:45probably the finest example of Baroque architecture here.

0:20:45 > 0:20:48If you're only here for a day trip, you only have a couple of hours,

0:20:48 > 0:20:50I still would highly recommend you pay a visit.

0:20:53 > 0:20:57The Cathedral of Lecce was built in 1144.

0:20:57 > 0:21:01Five centuries later in 1670, it was fully embellished

0:21:01 > 0:21:06in the decorative Baroque style known across Italy as Lecce Baroque.

0:21:11 > 0:21:15In every town and village in Puglia, you'll find a great

0:21:15 > 0:21:19restaurant or cafe which makes it a fantastic place for a foodie tour.

0:21:20 > 0:21:23I've made a special visit to another little town.

0:21:23 > 0:21:28Polignano a Mare, especially to visit Mint, a restaurant which you

0:21:28 > 0:21:33recommended for bringing a veggie spin to traditional Italian cooking.

0:21:33 > 0:21:34Thank you very much.

0:21:37 > 0:21:39Meanwhile, I've headed to Cisternino

0:21:39 > 0:21:42for a very different, carnivorous experience.

0:21:42 > 0:21:45Lisa Barrett from Dublin told us we should come here

0:21:45 > 0:21:47and try its famous grilled meat.

0:21:53 > 0:21:55Lovely, thank you very much.

0:21:55 > 0:21:58The temptation when you are on holiday in Italy is to eat

0:21:58 > 0:22:02pasta and bread and drink wine for breakfast, lunch and dinner

0:22:02 > 0:22:05and to basically roll home, but there are alternatives.

0:22:05 > 0:22:08Really light, wonderful produce and Puglia has got

0:22:08 > 0:22:11so many amazing vegetables and they are using them.

0:22:11 > 0:22:14This one is a zucchini tagliatelle.

0:22:14 > 0:22:16Really light. Delicious.

0:22:16 > 0:22:18So I'm told. Here goes.

0:22:25 > 0:22:26That is delicious.

0:22:28 > 0:22:30It tastes like pasta, al dente.

0:22:30 > 0:22:32Really creamy sauce and all raw.

0:22:32 > 0:22:37Don't worry, I'll be offsetting it with some ice cream later.

0:22:38 > 0:22:40Ciao, hello.

0:22:40 > 0:22:42OK, can I have one of these, please?

0:22:44 > 0:22:46Eh...ah. Two of these.

0:22:47 > 0:22:48Yeah.

0:22:48 > 0:22:50Grazie.

0:22:50 > 0:22:54Back in Cisternino, once you've given your order to the butcher,

0:22:54 > 0:22:58the meat is cooked in the kitchen next door using traditional grills.

0:22:59 > 0:23:00Beautiful.

0:23:00 > 0:23:02Beautiful.

0:23:02 > 0:23:03Grazie.

0:23:10 > 0:23:12You know...

0:23:12 > 0:23:14Speaking as a former vegetarian...

0:23:15 > 0:23:18This is worth falling off the meat wagon.

0:23:18 > 0:23:20Unreal.

0:23:20 > 0:23:24I don't think Joe would consider this

0:23:24 > 0:23:27a full meal without a side of chicken, but for me it's perfect.

0:23:32 > 0:23:35On our website, Ciara O'Doherty from County Carlow

0:23:35 > 0:23:37got in touch to recommend that we spend a few hours

0:23:37 > 0:23:41in the old town of the capital Bari, and if you only have a few hours,

0:23:41 > 0:23:44the best way to see the place is in a rickshaw.

0:23:44 > 0:23:48- Hello.- Ciao! Com es tai? - Buona, grazie.

0:23:48 > 0:23:51You can hire a rickshaw for 15 Euro per day,

0:23:51 > 0:23:53take your time and do your own pedalling.

0:23:53 > 0:23:57Or pay a bit more and for 35 Euro, you get an hour's guided tour

0:23:57 > 0:23:59and someone else does the hard work.

0:24:01 > 0:24:04It's a good way to explore the tiny, narrow backstreets.

0:24:04 > 0:24:07Everywhere you go in Puglia, food is a big deal.

0:24:07 > 0:24:10And one of my most memorable sights is the lovely ladies

0:24:10 > 0:24:13hand-rolling fresh pasta in the streets.

0:24:14 > 0:24:17They're making orecchiette or little ears.

0:24:17 > 0:24:20And they sell this fresh pasta to local restaurants.

0:24:22 > 0:24:26You don't have to enrol in a course to have a foodie holiday here.

0:24:26 > 0:24:29There is culture and food down every side street.

0:24:31 > 0:24:34Most people fly into Bari and head straight for the surrounding

0:24:34 > 0:24:37countryside, but there's plenty to see in the city itself.

0:24:39 > 0:24:42Here in the Piazza Mercantile you will find the Colonna Infame

0:24:42 > 0:24:45or the Column of Shame.

0:24:45 > 0:24:48Back in the 15th century, if you were guilty of theft,

0:24:48 > 0:24:52owing a debt or bankruptcy, you were brought here, stripped,

0:24:52 > 0:24:56your hands tied behind your back and made to straddle this lion.

0:24:56 > 0:25:02And any spectators were positively encouraged to spit on you while you were there.

0:25:02 > 0:25:04I think that's a bit harsh, frankly.

0:25:09 > 0:25:11Bari's a walled city

0:25:11 > 0:25:15and your rickshaw tour is a great way to see the fortifications.

0:25:17 > 0:25:18Grazie.

0:25:20 > 0:25:22This is the Basilica of San Nicola,

0:25:22 > 0:25:26the finest example of Apulian Romanesque architecture in Bari.

0:25:26 > 0:25:29It is the only church in the world where both Orthodox

0:25:29 > 0:25:32and Catholic Mass can be celebrated at the same time.

0:25:40 > 0:25:44And this church holds the relics of the patron saint of Bari,

0:25:44 > 0:25:48San Nicola, also known as St Nicholas the Wonder Worker.

0:25:49 > 0:25:53This saint actually became the inspiration for... Can you guess it?

0:25:53 > 0:25:56..Santa Claus, thanks to his good works and generosity.

0:26:01 > 0:26:03So, where do you stay in Puglia?

0:26:03 > 0:26:08There is plenty of choice, from countryside villas to small B&Bs.

0:26:08 > 0:26:12Farmhouse villas or masseria options are very popular,

0:26:12 > 0:26:15especially for large families and groups.

0:26:15 > 0:26:18At the top end of the market is Villa Masseria Torre Spaccata,

0:26:18 > 0:26:22a 17th century estate built around an olive mill.

0:26:22 > 0:26:26I particularly liked the gardens that not only have a rather

0:26:26 > 0:26:29swish swimming pool and outdoor eating area,

0:26:29 > 0:26:31but also a surround sound system.

0:26:31 > 0:26:33The Masseria sleeps up to 14.

0:26:33 > 0:26:37As well as the main house, there are four individual cottages

0:26:37 > 0:26:38scattered across the estate.

0:26:38 > 0:26:40Now for the bad news.

0:26:40 > 0:26:44It costs from £5,700 per week.

0:26:44 > 0:26:47This is a luxury option and for mere mortals, you're going

0:26:47 > 0:26:50to have to rope in a few friends to share the hefty price tag.

0:26:50 > 0:26:53If you split the costs between six people,

0:26:53 > 0:26:56you'll be looking at paying around a grand each per week.

0:26:57 > 0:27:01If you prefer to stay in a hotel, a good option in a countryside

0:27:01 > 0:27:05location is the Grand Hotel la Chiusa di Chietri.

0:27:05 > 0:27:08It's located on the outskirts of Alberobello.

0:27:08 > 0:27:11This is a big complex with a good pool,

0:27:11 > 0:27:15and as you'd expect in this part of the world, a very good restaurant.

0:27:15 > 0:27:18If you want to stay here, then a standard double will cost

0:27:18 > 0:27:20you from £85 per room per night for bed and breakfast.

0:27:22 > 0:27:25If you're looking for a good value room in a busy location,

0:27:25 > 0:27:28then we'd recommend Antico Mondo, a cute bed and breakfast

0:27:28 > 0:27:32right in the centre of Polignano a Mare.

0:27:32 > 0:27:35It's got a great rooftop terrace with a gorgeous view,

0:27:35 > 0:27:39the perfect place to chill out with a sneaky grapa.

0:27:39 > 0:27:42A double room here costs from £50 per night.

0:27:44 > 0:27:47We organised our trip with Discovery Puglia.

0:27:47 > 0:27:51There are two direct flights a week in the summer from Dublin to Bari.

0:27:51 > 0:27:54If you'd like any more information, then please visit our website:

0:27:58 > 0:28:01Like, I knew nothing about Puglia.

0:28:01 > 0:28:03I knew like one person who's parents had been here, right?

0:28:03 > 0:28:07But, as loath as I am to use the F word, this is a foodie's paradise.

0:28:07 > 0:28:10Lots of fresh vegetables, fresh fruit, beautifully prepared

0:28:10 > 0:28:14- and I thought very reasonably priced.- Absolutely.

0:28:14 > 0:28:16And...what I love is that most people reference Tuscany

0:28:16 > 0:28:20when they come to Italy, and for me, Puglia has everything

0:28:20 > 0:28:24and more that Tuscany has, except you melt in more easily.

0:28:24 > 0:28:27You become a local more, at least you feel that way, within days.

0:28:27 > 0:28:30- It just feels that bit more authentic, doesn't it?- Definitely.