0:00:40 > 0:00:44Hungary, land of the Magyars, has had a tough 20th century.
0:00:44 > 0:00:4990 years ago, this bridge connected two parts of Hungary.
0:00:49 > 0:00:56But after defeat in World War I they lost so much land that this is now an international frontier.
0:00:56 > 0:00:58But the cathedral on the hill at Esztergom
0:00:58 > 0:01:02remains one of the great symbols of Hungarian national pride.
0:01:04 > 0:01:07Dominating the Danube, it was where Stephen,
0:01:07 > 0:01:11their first Christian king, was crowned 1,000 years ago.
0:01:12 > 0:01:18The castle at Visegrad is another reminder of a proud past, and in the town below,
0:01:18 > 0:01:22crowds are gathering to celebrate the heroic years of the Middle Ages.
0:01:24 > 0:01:27But more recent traumas are clearly not forgotten.
0:01:30 > 0:01:33It's interesting, these are maps of Hungary...
0:01:33 > 0:01:39before World War I. It was actually two thirds bigger than it is now.
0:01:39 > 0:01:44Land was taken away by the peace treaty of Trianon in 1920.
0:01:44 > 0:01:48They're selling a lot so it's obviously something
0:01:48 > 0:01:51that smoulders deeply under the surface there for the Hungarians.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07Today, it's the 15th century they're celebrating -
0:02:07 > 0:02:12the days of Matthias Corvinus, the king who raised one of Europe's first standing armies
0:02:12 > 0:02:18and helped rally the peoples of Europe to take arms against the Ottoman Turks.
0:02:40 > 0:02:44Here in Visegrad, the days of valour and chivalry are remembered,
0:02:44 > 0:02:48and Hungary's golden age is brought briefly back to life.
0:02:51 > 0:02:57One of the highlights is a display of horseback archery by Lajos Kassai.
0:02:57 > 0:03:00It was a skill perfected by the armies of Attila the Hun.
0:03:04 > 0:03:07This technique was a military breakthrough.
0:03:07 > 0:03:12An arrow fired at the gallop had twice the piercing power of one fired from stationary.
0:03:19 > 0:03:23Kassai can shoot 12 of them in 17 seconds.
0:03:23 > 0:03:27As he puts it, "Every Hungarian feels in his heart he is Attila."
0:03:31 > 0:03:36Further down the river in the little town of Sentendre, history moves on a bit.
0:03:36 > 0:03:42I've been invited to meet some people in a house built as recently as the 1600s.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47Hope it's the right house otherwise we're in...
0:03:50 > 0:03:52Think so.
0:03:52 > 0:03:55Hello, is this the Eredics house?
0:03:55 > 0:03:58I'm Michael. Ah, well, it is the right place.
0:03:58 > 0:04:00- Yes, right place.- Great, thank you.
0:04:00 > 0:04:03Hello, Michael. I'm Michael.
0:04:03 > 0:04:06I'm told this is the one place in Hungary where everything happens.
0:04:06 > 0:04:09Hello! Hello!
0:04:09 > 0:04:11Oh, I say!
0:04:11 > 0:04:13Hello, I'm Michael.
0:04:13 > 0:04:17The Eredics family are almost all musicians who play and tour together.
0:04:17 > 0:04:21Like many in this town, they came here long ago, from Serbia.
0:04:21 > 0:04:23Ah, some goulash bubbling.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26Is it goulash or is it just...?
0:04:26 > 0:04:28Ah, goldfish, I see.
0:04:28 > 0:04:30It's a heated goldfish pond!
0:04:30 > 0:04:32Mmmm!
0:04:35 > 0:04:40The goldfish, I have to say, are absolutely wonderful, even if they do taste a bit like pork.
0:04:40 > 0:04:43- You make soups that are popular. - Yeah, very popular.
0:04:43 > 0:04:46English soups are a bit thin. These are big.
0:04:46 > 0:04:51- Very rich.- We would say in England, we'd say this is a stew, almost.
0:04:51 > 0:04:55Yeah, but it's not a stew, it's a soup. Yeah.
0:04:55 > 0:04:59After the meal, they display not just their virtuosity
0:04:59 > 0:05:04but the gypsy influences that seem to lie at the heart of Central European music.
0:05:40 > 0:05:44Very sadly, the time comes to leave this talented and hospitable family
0:05:44 > 0:05:49and embark on the last leg of my journey to Budapest.
0:05:51 > 0:05:54Oh dear, it's gone without me.
0:05:54 > 0:05:57Oh, well, there's bound to be another along soon.
0:06:05 > 0:06:08And the later you arrive in Budapest the better.
0:06:08 > 0:06:11The city at night is magnificent.
0:06:25 > 0:06:29I'm staying at the Gellert, a Budapest landmark.
0:06:32 > 0:06:35Now nearly 90 years old, its glories may be fading,
0:06:35 > 0:06:39but the Gellert still sits at the heart of Budapest life.
0:06:40 > 0:06:46I look out at Freedom Bridge which connects what were once two cities -
0:06:46 > 0:06:48Buda and, on the other side, Pest.
0:06:48 > 0:06:51The river is as busy as the roads,
0:06:51 > 0:06:54as boats leave for Bratislava and Vienna.
0:06:55 > 0:06:58The Gellert Spa comes with instructions.
0:06:58 > 0:07:03"Please read carefully our short introduction to the usage of the spa facilities,
0:07:03 > 0:07:08"which will help you to enjoy the unique experience of the 80-year-old Gellert bath.
0:07:08 > 0:07:13"From the hotel, you have to go to the elevator at the north wing of the building,
0:07:13 > 0:07:17"which you can access on the second, third or fourth floors.
0:07:17 > 0:07:23"Follow the signs and you won't miss the manned elevator.
0:07:33 > 0:07:39"Best practice is, if you change in your own room or suite and you enter the elevator in your bathing suit
0:07:39 > 0:07:45"and bath robe, you won't waste time with changing or spending valuable minutes in the locker rooms."
0:07:51 > 0:07:54This way for the pool?
0:07:54 > 0:07:58"During the trip with the elevator, from the attendant you will get a plastic card,
0:07:58 > 0:08:04"which you'll need to get through the entrance gate when entering and leaving the baths area."
0:08:04 > 0:08:07Ah, this is the famous card I need to get in the pool?
0:08:07 > 0:08:11- Yes.- Always have this? OK. - Always take the card.- Thank you.
0:08:16 > 0:08:20"As you come out of this elevator, please turn to the right
0:08:20 > 0:08:25"and show the bar code on the card to the sensor screen at the entry machine.
0:08:25 > 0:08:30"Walk through the main hall past the public cash desk.
0:08:30 > 0:08:35"First entrance on the right is the thermal baths for ladies only.
0:08:37 > 0:08:41"In the centre is the indoor pool and the access to the outdoor pool
0:08:41 > 0:08:44"and then the entrance to the thermal baths for gentlemen,
0:08:44 > 0:08:47"which is the third entrance on the right.
0:08:47 > 0:08:52"In case of any question, please turn to our front desk staff or the hostess of the baths."
0:08:58 > 0:09:02By the time I reach the sun terrace, I feel like Ulysses.
0:09:02 > 0:09:04And not a moment too soon.
0:09:04 > 0:09:07My body's whiter than the towels.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12Ah! ..That's better.
0:09:14 > 0:09:20No sooner have I started sunbathing than I feel an urgent need to cool down.
0:09:20 > 0:09:23The pool looks wonderfully inviting.
0:09:23 > 0:09:27But deep in the bowels of the hotel, something is stirring.
0:09:48 > 0:09:53No-one had warned me that every hour, on the hour, the paddlers' peace is shattered.
0:10:03 > 0:10:06Wave after wave scours the pool like a rip-tide.
0:10:12 > 0:10:17The Gellert wave machine is in action, as it has been since the 1930s.
0:10:17 > 0:10:23Toddlers, teenagers and TV presenters are tossed about like flotsam. It's wonderful!
0:10:29 > 0:10:32The finest building on the waterfront is the Parliament,
0:10:32 > 0:10:35built at the height of the Austro-Hungarian empire.
0:10:37 > 0:10:43My guide is Peter Zwack, who, as a child, escaped Nazi-occupied Budapest.
0:10:43 > 0:10:49He later became Hungarian ambassador in Washington and after that an independent MP.
0:10:49 > 0:10:51So he knows his way around.
0:10:51 > 0:10:55Was this wonderful building much damaged during the war?
0:10:55 > 0:10:58It was very bad. It was first bombed by the Soviets.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01And after, by the Allies.
0:11:01 > 0:11:03The city...
0:11:03 > 0:11:05You can still see it today,
0:11:05 > 0:11:08even though the city was rebuilt pretty much.
0:11:08 > 0:11:11But you still see bullet-holes and...
0:11:14 > 0:11:21In the extravagantly grand Chamber of Representatives, deputies sat throughout the Communist years,
0:11:21 > 0:11:24rubber-stamping decisions made at party headquarters.
0:11:24 > 0:11:26I never thought this would change.
0:11:26 > 0:11:30I thought until my death, we were going to live under Communism.
0:11:30 > 0:11:32And it happened one day to the other.
0:11:32 > 0:11:36If you were in Parliament now, Peter, what would you be fighting for?
0:11:36 > 0:11:40I'd be still fighting for the corruption...
0:11:40 > 0:11:43Against corruption.
0:11:43 > 0:11:48Today, the biggest problem in a small country like this is envy.
0:11:48 > 0:11:54Envy, jealousy, hatred. Because there are such social differences
0:11:54 > 0:11:57due to the breaking in of freedom.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00People got very rich illegally.
0:12:00 > 0:12:05So there's a real hatred towards these new rich.
0:12:05 > 0:12:13Nothing I've learnt on my journey prepares me for Hungarian, one of Europe's least-spoken languages.
0:12:13 > 0:12:19But I'm determined to give it a try and have chosen the Budapest subway system as my first victim.
0:12:19 > 0:12:23This is the dangerous bit. I've been learning this for weeks!
0:12:23 > 0:12:25We'll see if it works.
0:12:25 > 0:12:27HE SPEAKS HUNGARIAN
0:12:29 > 0:12:32Am I going to get a hippopotamus? No, a ticket! Brilliant! Thank you.
0:12:34 > 0:12:36How mu...?
0:12:54 > 0:13:01Opened in 1896, this was the very first underground system in mainland Europe.
0:13:08 > 0:13:12I get off halfway along Andrassy, the smart boulevard of Budapest,
0:13:12 > 0:13:16one of whose neo-classical mansions harbours a sinister past.
0:13:17 > 0:13:22There was one house on this grand and elegant street where you never wanted to end up.
0:13:22 > 0:13:27For a while, it was the most feared address in Budapest - 60 Andrassy Street.
0:13:29 > 0:13:32Now a museum called the House of Terror,
0:13:32 > 0:13:38Number 60 had been headquarters of both Fascist, and later, Communist secret police.
0:13:41 > 0:13:46On display in one gallery is the propaganda of communism.
0:13:46 > 0:13:49It projected a wholesome, progressive world.
0:13:49 > 0:13:54But as early as 1956, the Hungarian people could see through it.
0:13:54 > 0:13:58- NEWSREEL:- 'Throughout the city, Soviet war memorials come crashing down.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03'Budapest is in revolt.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07'With uncontrolled fury crowds set fire to Russian flags and put Soviet books to the torch.
0:14:07 > 0:14:09'A red star is sent tumbling.'
0:14:09 > 0:14:14The Hungarian uprising was the first big test of Moscow's control of her European satellites.
0:14:14 > 0:14:17'Rebels ride tanks triumphantly in the streets.
0:14:17 > 0:14:20'The Russians have given their word that they will withdraw
0:14:20 > 0:14:24'all Communist troops from Hungarian soil. Their victory seems complete.'
0:14:31 > 0:14:34But the troops did go back in.
0:14:34 > 0:14:37The uprising was crushed and its leaders subjected to a show trial.
0:14:43 > 0:14:48In a room papered with legal documents, the film of the trial runs on a loop,
0:14:48 > 0:14:53including the moment when the ultimate punishment was passed on Prime Minister Imre Nagy,
0:14:53 > 0:14:56a Communist, but not Moscow's kind of Communist.
0:15:20 > 0:15:24Hungary had to wait more than 30 years before it could properly
0:15:24 > 0:15:28taste the freedom it had come so close to winning in 1956.
0:15:45 > 0:15:50But perhaps the most unsettling exhibit in the House of Terror is in the lift.
0:15:58 > 0:16:04It's a macabre interview with a retired prison service employee who attended executions.
0:17:04 > 0:17:09After the uprising, thousands of Hungarians were executed in places like this,
0:17:09 > 0:17:13along with their Prime Minister, Imre Nagy.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16More than 250,000 fled abroad.
0:17:18 > 0:17:23It's a relief to get back to the noise and bustle of the boulevard.
0:17:25 > 0:17:30But the one good thing about the whole grim story is that in 1989,
0:17:30 > 0:17:34there was a reburial ceremony for Imre Nagy,
0:17:34 > 0:17:36here in Heroes Square.
0:17:41 > 0:17:46Maybe it's a left-over from the wealthy years at the heart of a Central European empire
0:17:46 > 0:17:50but Budapest exudes a stylishly confident approach to the way things look.
0:17:50 > 0:17:54And Katti Zoob, a theatrical costumier turned designer,
0:17:54 > 0:17:58is carrying on the tradition with some very cool fashions.
0:18:00 > 0:18:03Then why on earth has she asked me to be one of her models?
0:18:03 > 0:18:07- Hello, hello!- Hello, Michael. - It's Michael, yes.
0:18:07 > 0:18:12I've come to this kind of as a duty, to be dressed for something or other.
0:18:12 > 0:18:16- Welcome.- So, yes, I'm in your hands.- They're waiting for you.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19I've been in a terrible tizzy as to what to wear.
0:18:19 > 0:18:23I mean, these are not my sort of places at all.
0:18:23 > 0:18:29- Lovely. Think I'd look nice in one of those?- It's wonderful.- Hello.
0:18:29 > 0:18:36- I'd like to introduce Michael to you.- Hello, hello. Very nice to meet you.- Nice to meet you.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39- You've been very busy.- Oh, thank you.
0:18:39 > 0:18:42Lots of wonderful things.
0:18:42 > 0:18:45- I don't know what you can do for me. - You are my favourite!
0:18:45 > 0:18:49We'll go in behind the screens, I think. Thank you very much!
0:18:49 > 0:18:52- Hello!- Yes, thank you.
0:18:52 > 0:18:54Well, that puts me at my ease a bit.
0:19:10 > 0:19:12It's enough, thank you very much.
0:19:12 > 0:19:14- Is that...? Really?- Really.
0:19:14 > 0:19:18- Don't you measure the inside leg? - No. Sorry, no!
0:19:18 > 0:19:21I'm just asking because most shop assistants do.
0:19:21 > 0:19:23Because maybe I have a mistake!
0:19:25 > 0:19:28Thank you. You just sort of like, roughly...
0:19:30 > 0:19:33- I have a good eye. I have a very good eyes.- Yeah.
0:19:36 > 0:19:40I'm rather frightened about this, to be honest.
0:19:40 > 0:19:43Can you set my mind at rest?
0:19:43 > 0:19:46The show will be...
0:19:46 > 0:19:51some special, special event for angels and devils,
0:19:51 > 0:19:56- and I would like if you... - Can be a devil?
0:19:56 > 0:20:01- No!- I wanna be a devil.- A little bit devil, a little bit angel. - Ah, yes, all right.
0:20:01 > 0:20:05For example, front sides...
0:20:05 > 0:20:07is angel.
0:20:07 > 0:20:14- Yes.- Or front side's the devil. I think it will be interesting.
0:20:14 > 0:20:16So I'm going to be sort of bi-moral?
0:20:17 > 0:20:22I mean, a bit good, a bit bad? Sorry...bi-moral.
0:20:22 > 0:20:25Like bisexual, you know, bi-moral.
0:20:25 > 0:20:28Really? Would you like a skirt?
0:20:29 > 0:20:34Erm...no, I mean, I think...
0:20:34 > 0:20:39- Some lace?- I think the... I might try that later.
0:20:39 > 0:20:44Black lace skirts with white lining.
0:20:44 > 0:20:47Yes, now you're talking. A sort of see-through kilt.
0:20:47 > 0:20:50No, I would like...
0:20:53 > 0:20:56Tonight I'm seeing a rather different side of Budapest.
0:20:56 > 0:21:00I've been invited to eat at the Karpatia, which proclaims itself
0:21:00 > 0:21:05"The Classic Hungarian Restaurant of Budapest since 1877".
0:21:05 > 0:21:12The owner, Akos Niklai, wants me to hear his discoveries - two gypsy violinists, father and son.
0:21:25 > 0:21:28Their piece de resistance is an intricate piece by the Romanian
0:21:28 > 0:21:34composer Dinicu, called The Lark, and it always brings the house down.
0:21:40 > 0:21:43SOLO VIOLIN IMITATES BIRDSONG.
0:22:27 > 0:22:29What a lark!
0:22:29 > 0:22:35As they take a break, Akos deals gracefully with some rather impertinent questions.
0:22:35 > 0:22:39The Hungarians are people of impeccable taste and very inventive people,
0:22:39 > 0:22:44but you haven't had much luck in wars - you've always backed the losing side.
0:22:44 > 0:22:48It happens twice, to Hungary but it is not always depending
0:22:48 > 0:22:52on the Hungarians. Due to the location of the Hungary.
0:22:52 > 0:22:59As a result of this, 50% of the territory of Hungary was taken away,
0:22:59 > 0:23:04and again, in the Second World War,
0:23:04 > 0:23:08we had bad luck, but you also have to remember
0:23:08 > 0:23:15the location of Hungary, where we are located, and obviously Hungary has a sort of strategic location.
0:23:15 > 0:23:19Do you find there's any tendency in Hungarians to be depressive.
0:23:19 > 0:23:23I read somewhere that the country had the highest suicide rate in the world.
0:23:23 > 0:23:24I would say yes and no.
0:23:24 > 0:23:29Erm, Hungarians have different moods.
0:23:29 > 0:23:32Sometimes we are very sad, sometimes we are extremely happy.
0:23:32 > 0:23:40But there are situations when it is hard to handle the pressure, maybe we are a little bit depressed,
0:23:40 > 0:23:44but, er...that's life.
0:23:47 > 0:23:51Another example of Hungarian flair is a national drink called Unicum,
0:23:51 > 0:23:57a digestif produced to a secret formula by none other than my friend Peter Zwack,
0:23:57 > 0:23:59and he's asked me to a tasting.
0:24:02 > 0:24:07In the cellars, he tells me how huge barrels of it were once used to bridge the Danube.
0:24:07 > 0:24:14These barrels were floated on the Danube as so-called pontoon bridges
0:24:14 > 0:24:20because the temporary wooden bridges were housed on top of these barrels.
0:24:20 > 0:24:23- The pontoon of Unicum. - The pontoon of Unicum.
0:24:23 > 0:24:26Was the Unicum in the barrels at the time?
0:24:26 > 0:24:29That I don't know. I don't know if they would have sunk or not.
0:24:29 > 0:24:32You realise what a powerful bridge it was.
0:24:32 > 0:24:38- How popular is Unicum here? - It is very popular because if you take Hungary,
0:24:38 > 0:24:45which has a population of ten million people, we sell five million bottles only in Hungary,
0:24:45 > 0:24:47so every second person drinks it.
0:24:47 > 0:24:49So it's very, very popular.
0:24:49 > 0:24:51So who knows the secret?
0:24:51 > 0:24:52It's still in the family.
0:24:52 > 0:24:57Now it is actually my wife and I who know it.
0:24:57 > 0:25:00We always say we can't afford to divorce!
0:25:01 > 0:25:04But it's really a secret recipe,
0:25:04 > 0:25:06and we very carefully watch it.
0:25:06 > 0:25:12It is rather complicated how you, the herbs in Unicum come from all over the world.
0:25:12 > 0:25:14It's unique. There's nothing like it.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16And the success of it,
0:25:16 > 0:25:23we kiddingly say that 50% of the people will never drink it again once they try it,
0:25:23 > 0:25:27but the other 50% gets hooked on it. They will never drink anything else.
0:25:28 > 0:25:31This is the moment of truth.
0:25:31 > 0:25:35The moment of truth when you know, er, when you taste this.
0:25:35 > 0:25:39I hope we're not going to end our short-born friendship.
0:25:39 > 0:25:44No, we'll remain friends, but you might have to come and visit me in hospital.
0:25:45 > 0:25:48OK, you have to tap it a little bit because...
0:25:48 > 0:25:50- There we go... - Do you drink it every day?
0:25:50 > 0:25:56I drink it every day. One shot like this, half a glass, every evening.
0:25:56 > 0:25:59Two glasses of wine and Unicum.
0:25:59 > 0:26:03Here we go. Let's see if I'm one of the 50% who do or the 50% who don't.
0:26:03 > 0:26:09- Knock it back in one?- No, no. I would say sip it, enjoy it, if you can!
0:26:15 > 0:26:17Oh, Mmm!
0:26:18 > 0:26:23That's magnificent. It really is. I love that.
0:26:23 > 0:26:26It's like being in a forest in the middle of a gale.
0:26:26 > 0:26:29Everything's blown at you, all sorts of tastes.
0:26:29 > 0:26:32I love the way it finish.
0:26:32 > 0:26:34It's very, very lively. Great.
0:26:34 > 0:26:37- Complex.- Yes.
0:26:37 > 0:26:41- And it's a bit fiery later on.- Yeah.
0:26:41 > 0:26:46It is like a blast of concentrated mountain countryside.
0:26:48 > 0:26:52I've one more engagement left in this seductive city.
0:26:54 > 0:26:59Tonight is my debut as a model at Katti Zoob's summer show.
0:26:59 > 0:27:02- You usually have a quiet time? - We are ready.
0:27:02 > 0:27:07Everything is under control, because I have a number of helpers.
0:27:07 > 0:27:13And you've done it before, haven't you? You've done this before.
0:27:13 > 0:27:19You've talked to audiences and they all love you. I bet they go, "Katti!
0:27:19 > 0:27:22"Yeah, my girl."
0:27:22 > 0:27:26I'll let you have a little bit of peace and quiet.
0:27:26 > 0:27:30I'll go and talk to some of my fellow models.
0:27:37 > 0:27:416:30, and the guests are arriving.
0:27:45 > 0:27:49Suddenly it's, well, serious.
0:27:49 > 0:27:56The doors are drawn back and the eyes of Budapest's fashionistas turn expectantly towards me.
0:27:59 > 0:28:02Hello, good evening.
0:28:02 > 0:28:08As the oldest and least beautiful of all the models here tonight,
0:28:08 > 0:28:12it is a great honour for me to be able to start this show.
0:28:12 > 0:28:17As you can see, Katti has brought out the devil in me tonight.
0:28:17 > 0:28:20This is going to be the theme. She is a marvellous designer.
0:28:20 > 0:28:22It's been wonderful to work with her.
0:28:22 > 0:28:24Now, it's time. On with the show!
0:29:11 > 0:29:14It's all over far too soon for my liking.
0:29:14 > 0:29:18But thanks to Katti, my transformation from quiet Sheffield lad
0:29:18 > 0:29:21to outrageous old fashion queen is complete.
0:29:28 > 0:29:32Keleti Station is Budapest's gateway to the east.
0:29:32 > 0:29:38In its size, scale and the flourish of its architecture, it's typically Hungarian.
0:29:49 > 0:29:55I'm looking for the Tisza Express that runs between Budapest and Lviv in the Ukraine.
0:30:07 > 0:30:11The Tisza, named after the second river of Hungary,
0:30:11 > 0:30:14connects the capital with the agricultural lands to the east.
0:30:22 > 0:30:25I've grown rather used to being in Budapest.
0:30:25 > 0:30:29It's so much the centre of the country, with about 20% of the population living here.
0:30:29 > 0:30:34I've little idea what the countryside beyond will look and feel like.
0:30:39 > 0:30:43I just hope the flowers aren't plastic, like the ones on the train.
0:30:46 > 0:30:50Now, this looks like my sort of place!
0:30:50 > 0:30:55Mad is well worth the detour, for despite the angry and possibly mad dogs,
0:30:55 > 0:30:58it's the home of something rather special.
0:30:58 > 0:31:05This is Mad. The joke doesn't work in Hungarian because it has an accent so it is actually "Mard".
0:31:05 > 0:31:08But it's a small, modest village.
0:31:08 > 0:31:14Yet on the slopes here are grown one of the most highly prized wines in the world.
0:31:15 > 0:31:20These are the vines from which the sweet wine Tokaji is made.
0:31:20 > 0:31:24In the Soviet years, they produced quantity rather than quality.
0:31:24 > 0:31:28But now, winemakers produce bottles costing several hundred pounds.
0:31:30 > 0:31:35The secret is mixing wine from these grapes with others affected by botrytis,
0:31:35 > 0:31:38or noble rot, which produces aszu,
0:31:38 > 0:31:44a juice from which wine is made of the colour and price of gold.
0:31:44 > 0:31:50Istvan Turoczi manages production for the British-owned Royal Tokaji Company.
0:31:50 > 0:31:51It's lovely.
0:31:51 > 0:31:55Stretching back to quite a long time.
0:31:55 > 0:31:58- Yeah.- Hundreds of years.
0:32:01 > 0:32:06The wine is matured in dark caves over 100ft below ground,
0:32:06 > 0:32:11a suitable place for Istvan to tell me of the mysterious power of Tokaji Aszu.
0:32:11 > 0:32:15It has been a very famous wine for a long time.
0:32:15 > 0:32:19Who are the great people who have enjoyed this?
0:32:19 > 0:32:26For example, the Queen Mother loved it very much, who lived for 102 years.
0:32:26 > 0:32:28She loved Tokaji wines, Aszu wines.
0:32:28 > 0:32:31- Our Queen Mother?- Yes, she did.
0:32:31 > 0:32:34She was very discerning.
0:32:34 > 0:32:36And who else?
0:32:36 > 0:32:43Queen Victoria, who got as present a dozen of Aszu wine for each birthday.
0:32:43 > 0:32:48The number of dozens were as much as her age.
0:32:48 > 0:32:55So it ended at her birthday of 81 with 972 bottles of Aszu wine
0:32:55 > 0:32:59of different very good vintages of the region.
0:32:59 > 0:33:01The advantage of living a long time.
0:33:01 > 0:33:04- Yes.- Did they get a reaction from Queen Victoria?
0:33:04 > 0:33:07Did she say, "You can stop now, I'm not gonna finish these."
0:33:07 > 0:33:12No, she loved the wine as well as Queen Elizabeth.
0:33:18 > 0:33:22The beautiful nine-arch bridge, built almost 200 years ago,
0:33:22 > 0:33:27carries me over the Tisza River towards the Puszta, the Great Hungarian Plain.
0:33:34 > 0:33:39Legend has it that this land of distant horizons was where Attila the Hun died
0:33:39 > 0:33:45of a nasal flux brought on by strenuous sexual activity with his new bride.
0:33:45 > 0:33:51If only the bicycle had been invented then, he could have had a much more healthy hobby.
0:33:53 > 0:33:57Nowadays, the plain is the province of cowboys called chicos,
0:33:57 > 0:34:02and their herds of massive and rather intimidating Hungarian Grey Cattle.
0:34:19 > 0:34:22Traditional methods are still used here.
0:34:22 > 0:34:27The chicos water their livestock from shadoof-style wells, like those I've seen in Africa.
0:34:46 > 0:34:48Thank you.
0:34:51 > 0:34:58This is now a national park, and the survival of the Hungarian cowboy is in the hands of visitors like us.
0:35:07 > 0:35:11Picking up the Tisza Express again, I take it through to the frontier town
0:35:11 > 0:35:17of Zahony, and from there across into the Ukraine my 12th country so far.
0:35:19 > 0:35:22Crossing the border is an uplifting experience...
0:35:22 > 0:35:25quite literally!
0:35:27 > 0:35:31This is Chop, just over the Ukrainian border. It's the middle of the night.
0:35:31 > 0:35:38Because of the incompatibility of the European and Russian rail networks, that are on different gauge,
0:35:38 > 0:35:45every coach has to be jacked up into the air and they've got to physically change all the bogeys.
0:35:45 > 0:35:47That's what they're doing at the moment.
0:35:47 > 0:35:50You can see people are on the train,
0:35:50 > 0:35:55in the middle of the night, and six feet up in the air. These will all be changed.
0:35:55 > 0:36:01It is quite dramatic, but who's going to change, the Russian rail network, or the European rail network?
0:36:01 > 0:36:03This goes on.
0:36:17 > 0:36:23The train, having been re-wheeled in an hour flat, we're on our way and back to sleep.
0:36:30 > 0:36:33A grey dawn in the Carpathians.
0:36:33 > 0:36:36The weather's very different on this side of the mountains.
0:36:43 > 0:36:47Not the most beautiful introduction to the city of Lviv,
0:36:47 > 0:36:53whose identity has been as murky as the weather, changing its name four times in the last 90 years.
0:36:58 > 0:37:03Since 1991, it's been the western gateway to the Ukraine.
0:37:09 > 0:37:15Over the last century, armies and administrations swept in and out of Lviv with alarming regularity,
0:37:15 > 0:37:20but it was always the intellectual and spiritual home of Ukrainian nationalism.
0:37:25 > 0:37:29Not a great day for sightseeing or for getting married.
0:37:29 > 0:37:32And they're digging the streets up.
0:37:38 > 0:37:44But the prosperity that came from Lviv's days as a frontier town between Europe and Russia
0:37:44 > 0:37:48has left a legacy even the weather can't dampen.
0:37:48 > 0:37:54A damp morning in the Carpathians, and now a wet Sunday in Leviv. But are we downhearted?
0:37:54 > 0:37:58No, because, for me at any rate, this place is an undiscovered gem.
0:37:58 > 0:38:05At various times in its history, it's been Austrian, German, Polish, Russian, now Ukrainian and it shows.
0:38:05 > 0:38:11I mean, if you look around it, even on a lousy day like this, this is a truly European city.
0:38:14 > 0:38:17Leviv is somewhere I'll come back to.
0:38:17 > 0:38:21It has a civilised charm that deserves another chance.
0:38:21 > 0:38:23And the dogs are friendly.
0:38:27 > 0:38:33I've been this way before, but when I last took a train to Kiev, it wasn't part of the Ukraine.
0:38:33 > 0:38:38I was filming Pole to Pole and this was still the USSR.
0:38:38 > 0:38:43On that journey, I got talking to a young Ukrainian called Vadim.
0:38:43 > 0:38:48He said he sensed something in the air, something dangerous and exciting.
0:38:48 > 0:38:52I see Ukrainian history being revived, I see Ukrainian culture,
0:38:52 > 0:38:57you know, the culture which many people thought is gone forever,
0:38:57 > 0:38:59we are getting back to some of our roots.
0:38:59 > 0:39:01There is so much to do here.
0:39:01 > 0:39:05If one feels Ukrainian, if one feels it's one's roots,
0:39:05 > 0:39:11this is a very exciting period to live through in the history of this land.
0:39:11 > 0:39:16And so it proved to be. The collapse of the USSR led, eventually,
0:39:16 > 0:39:23to the election of Viktor Yushchenko as president and the charismatic Yulia Tymoshenko as Prime Minister.
0:39:23 > 0:39:26They called it the Orange Revolution.
0:39:28 > 0:39:31SHE SPEAKS IN UKRAINIAN
0:39:37 > 0:39:40But Victor and Yulia fell out.
0:39:40 > 0:39:42And when I arrive in Kiev for a second time,
0:39:42 > 0:39:47the ecstatic scenes in Independence Square are already a distant memory.
0:39:53 > 0:39:56There are still tents in the square.
0:39:56 > 0:39:58But there's a confusion in the camps.
0:40:00 > 0:40:04An election has just delivered a hung parliament.
0:40:04 > 0:40:10Yulia can't work with Viktor, and Viktor can't work with parties that support closer links to Russia.
0:40:10 > 0:40:12There's deadlock.
0:40:12 > 0:40:17Until it's broken, the faithful have pledged to stay on the streets.
0:40:17 > 0:40:23Who better to turn to for an explanation than the stranger I met on the train all those years ago?
0:40:23 > 0:40:28The eyes of the world were on this square during the Orange Revolution
0:40:28 > 0:40:31a couple of years ago and the flags are out again.
0:40:31 > 0:40:34Is this democracy in action in the Ukraine?
0:40:34 > 0:40:41You know, the real problem is that many people in this country,
0:40:41 > 0:40:44after so many years of Russian empire
0:40:44 > 0:40:48and of the Soviet empire, they were used to been ruled by a strong hand,
0:40:48 > 0:40:54which does everything very effectively without thinking about such things as democracy
0:40:54 > 0:40:56or human rights or whatever it is.
0:40:56 > 0:41:04So, when we've suddenly got this president that we have now and there's a new government,
0:41:04 > 0:41:07which is democratic in its ideas,
0:41:07 > 0:41:12which means slow and not as effective as the authoritarian regimes, many people just don't get it.
0:41:12 > 0:41:16They say we want a strong... We want discipline, we want order.
0:41:16 > 0:41:19There are a lot of young people out there in the tented city.
0:41:19 > 0:41:23Do they believe in a democratic future for Ukraine?
0:41:23 > 0:41:27I think they're beginning to understand that this...
0:41:27 > 0:41:32strange beast called democracy includes a number of very pragmatic things
0:41:32 > 0:41:35that young people want to have,
0:41:35 > 0:41:38like the possibility to go abroad and study there, like the possibility
0:41:38 > 0:41:43to speak openly without being afraid of the policemen behind you.
0:41:43 > 0:41:45We last met 15 years ago
0:41:45 > 0:41:51and you made a prediction, you said things are going to move slowly, but they are going to change.
0:41:51 > 0:41:55When we next meet, if we're both still alive, in 15 years' time,
0:41:55 > 0:42:02what do you think you'll be saying about the world then and about Ukraine?
0:42:02 > 0:42:08Ukraine by that time should be much more sovereign,
0:42:08 > 0:42:11much more independent, well, of course, much more prosperous.
0:42:11 > 0:42:18Hopefully, a part, a real part, of the European family
0:42:18 > 0:42:24and, perhaps, led politically by a good-looking lady.
0:42:25 > 0:42:27Who could that be?
0:42:27 > 0:42:29Well, there are a couple of...
0:42:29 > 0:42:32And there are a few photos around.
0:42:32 > 0:42:36- Let's have a look. How do you like that lady there? - Oh, yes, she's nice.- Who knows?
0:42:36 > 0:42:40In 15 years, she could grow up to become a leading politician.
0:42:42 > 0:42:46Basing her appeal on an image of wholesome Ukrainian womanhood,
0:42:46 > 0:42:51Yulia Tymoshenko is still eye-catching, but now she has competition from her daughter.
0:42:53 > 0:42:58In a Kiev monastery, Eugenia Tymoshenko recently married Sean Carr,
0:42:58 > 0:43:01a market trader from Leeds.
0:43:05 > 0:43:08Sean's not a politician.
0:43:08 > 0:43:10# Well, all right
0:43:12 > 0:43:14# Sayin' it's nothin' he cracks a joke
0:43:14 > 0:43:16# The whole world's goin' up in smoke... #
0:43:16 > 0:43:19He's a Death Valley Screamer.
0:43:19 > 0:43:26Unable to make much headway in the UK, the group he founded has taken Ukraine by storm.
0:43:37 > 0:43:42Sean and Eugenia have thrown themselves behind the Tymoshenko campaign,
0:43:42 > 0:43:45and I catch up with them on a morale-boosting visit to the troops.
0:43:45 > 0:43:50I mean, Sean, you're a Yorkshireman. We don't do this sort of thing in England, do we?
0:43:50 > 0:43:53Put up tents in Westminster Square?
0:43:53 > 0:43:56Good Lord, no. I don't know...
0:43:56 > 0:43:57What do you think of it?
0:43:57 > 0:44:00At first, I thought it was very strange. It was a massive shock.
0:44:00 > 0:44:05But now, I'm ready to do this, this is not just a last resort,
0:44:05 > 0:44:08this is a peaceful way of resolving things.
0:44:08 > 0:44:12It's an amazing situation, and amazing to meet someone like yourself,
0:44:12 > 0:44:14so we'll watch, we'll see what goes on.
0:44:14 > 0:44:16Let's have a look around.
0:44:22 > 0:44:25I'm not the only one following them around.
0:44:25 > 0:44:27As they don't get much time to themselves here,
0:44:27 > 0:44:32they invite me to their country house for lunch the next day.
0:44:36 > 0:44:39# Born to be wild
0:44:39 > 0:44:44# Born to be wild
0:44:47 > 0:44:52# Born to be wild... #
0:44:58 > 0:45:03Sean doesn't do public transport or a saddle, actually.
0:45:03 > 0:45:05But he doesn't half get you there fast!
0:45:06 > 0:45:09That's the way to arrive.
0:45:09 > 0:45:14The bike may be top of the market, but the house, in the woods outside Kiev,
0:45:14 > 0:45:18is quite modest by the standards of pop aristocracy.
0:45:18 > 0:45:20As we sit and have a drink,
0:45:20 > 0:45:24I can't help thinking that my fellow Yorkshireman fits in well here.
0:45:24 > 0:45:26There's a touch of the Cossack about him.
0:45:26 > 0:45:30Does your mother-in-law like your music?
0:45:30 > 0:45:33Yes, she likes it to a certain extent.
0:45:33 > 0:45:39I don't imagine she'd go out there and bop around to it, but, yes, she likes what we're doing.
0:45:39 > 0:45:42She appreciates that we've worked really hard
0:45:42 > 0:45:47and we've brought a new sort of music here.
0:45:47 > 0:45:51It's very strange because what we do in England, I mean,
0:45:51 > 0:45:55you sit every night in the pub, you walk in, there's a band playing.
0:45:55 > 0:46:00Whereas here, you play and the reaction is just phenomenal.
0:46:00 > 0:46:06Everybody, I mean, we've had 70-year-old grandmas coming wearing Death Valley Screamer shirts.
0:46:06 > 0:46:07They're all bopping around.
0:46:07 > 0:46:12It's just like, hang on a minute, what's going on here?
0:46:12 > 0:46:14It's fantastic.
0:46:14 > 0:46:17I was just going to say that my mum wanted to keep him
0:46:17 > 0:46:22dressed on the stage because he always takes his shirt off.
0:46:22 > 0:46:24She was worried about that.
0:46:24 > 0:46:30After some time, she accepted that's the way to be - rock and roll.
0:46:30 > 0:46:34- That's very English, you have fun, take your shirt off. - Let your hair down.
0:46:34 > 0:46:36If your mother came to power,
0:46:36 > 0:46:40do you think there'd be a chance of a cabinet post for Sean?
0:46:40 > 0:46:43He wants to be Minister of Roads, I think.
0:46:43 > 0:46:44I want to get the roads sorted out.
0:46:44 > 0:46:46First job.
0:46:46 > 0:46:49I think Sean would be a good adviser
0:46:49 > 0:46:52on the system of the road and how they should be.
0:46:52 > 0:46:54Minister of Rock and Roads.
0:46:54 > 0:46:56- That would be good, wouldn't it? - Yes.
0:46:56 > 0:47:02I think you were the first Soviet girl, one of the first Soviet girls
0:47:02 > 0:47:05ever to go to an English public school.
0:47:05 > 0:47:07Has this been a good experience for you?
0:47:07 > 0:47:09I really enjoyed my years there.
0:47:09 > 0:47:15I think, although some papers say the system is not very good any more,
0:47:15 > 0:47:19you know, the public school system should be changed,
0:47:19 > 0:47:22but I think it's great. It's a great system.
0:47:22 > 0:47:24That's very good for Rugby!
0:47:24 > 0:47:26They'll like that.
0:47:26 > 0:47:31What attracted a demure, English public school girl like yourself,
0:47:31 > 0:47:39to this wild, rock 'n' rolling motorbike...maniac?
0:47:39 > 0:47:44The first time I saw him, he looked really unusual
0:47:44 > 0:47:49and I've always liked bikes and music like this
0:47:49 > 0:47:52so I thought, "Ah! He's a rock musician!"
0:47:52 > 0:47:57I said, "I have to pass by him and see what he looks like."
0:47:57 > 0:48:05Afterwards, you know, it's not really about bikes and music, it's more about Sean's personality.
0:48:05 > 0:48:08He's a really, really kind person,
0:48:08 > 0:48:11and a lovely, lovely person,
0:48:11 > 0:48:14so that's what it's about.
0:48:14 > 0:48:17And, of course, it's adds a lot of excitement.
0:48:17 > 0:48:22- Something that I've never tried before.- It was just the bike, be honest about it!
0:48:22 > 0:48:24Yes, I have to admit it to you.
0:48:28 > 0:48:34As Sean drives me back, I can't help hoping his mother-in-law will one day get back into power.
0:48:34 > 0:48:36Ukraine could use a new Minister of Roads.
0:48:43 > 0:48:49Kiev could be a European city with its glittering skyline of Christian monasteries,
0:48:49 > 0:48:54but the huge 300ft monument called Nation's Mother, given to the city in Soviet times,
0:48:54 > 0:48:58faces towards Moscow and there are many here who would like Ukraine to do the same.
0:49:01 > 0:49:07The Dnieper River flows through Kiev to the Black Sea, close to my next port of call, the Crimea.
0:49:09 > 0:49:13Thousands make for the Crimean coast every summer,
0:49:13 > 0:49:17leaving the train at Simferopol and continuing on by trolleybus.
0:49:34 > 0:49:39The route was opened in 1959 as cheap travel for the masses.
0:49:40 > 0:49:43But it's not just any old suburban service,
0:49:43 > 0:49:50it covers 51 miles and crosses a 2,500-foot pass.
0:49:50 > 0:49:56The Number 52 from Simferopol to Yalta is one of the great trolley bus journeys of the world.
0:50:03 > 0:50:05Mind you, it does take three hours.
0:50:36 > 0:50:40I've come all this way because in February 1945,
0:50:40 > 0:50:44a conference was held here in Yalta that was to change the face of Europe.
0:50:44 > 0:50:51This is the Levadia Palace, the summer home of Russia's last tsar, the ill-fated Nicholas II.
0:50:51 > 0:50:55It's also the place where, in 1945, the fate of Europe was decided
0:50:55 > 0:51:00by three powerful men - Josef Stalin of the USSR,
0:51:00 > 0:51:05President Roosevelt of the USA, and Britain's Winston Churchill.
0:51:05 > 0:51:08President Roosevelt was a sick man.
0:51:08 > 0:51:11Observers described him as looking frail and ill.
0:51:11 > 0:51:15And indeed, within three months of the conference, he'd be dead.
0:51:15 > 0:51:19But because of his condition he was given a room here at Levadia Palace.
0:51:19 > 0:51:25It was only a short wheelchair ride from there through into the main conference chamber.
0:51:27 > 0:51:31Around this table, the Big Three leaders and their delegations
0:51:31 > 0:51:36argued for four days over the borders and boundaries of their new Europe.
0:51:37 > 0:51:44When the day's horse trading was over, Churchill and the British delegation returned to their villa.
0:51:44 > 0:51:46It was built by Count Vorontsov.
0:51:46 > 0:51:51He spent 20 years and a countless fortune building it and never lived in it.
0:51:54 > 0:51:57Churchill loved this lion, particularly.
0:51:57 > 0:52:00He told Stalin, "It's like me, only without the cigar."
0:52:03 > 0:52:09In the great hall of the Vorontsov villa, subsidiary meetings were held by the foreign ministers
0:52:09 > 0:52:12to thrash out the fine detail.
0:52:12 > 0:52:16Whether the Vorontsov villa was bugged or not is a moot point
0:52:16 > 0:52:22but two observations by one of Churchill's party suggest someone might have been listening in.
0:52:22 > 0:52:27For instance, in completely private conversations, someone would mention they'd seen a fish tank
0:52:27 > 0:52:30and it was empty of fish. Two days later, full of goldfish.
0:52:30 > 0:52:35A similar confidential conversation about not finding enough lemon peel for the cocktails
0:52:35 > 0:52:39resulted two days later in a lemon tree in the conservatory.
0:52:39 > 0:52:41Maybe coincidence!
0:52:43 > 0:52:49Behind the conviviality, the toastings and the mutual backslapping,
0:52:49 > 0:52:53one inescapable fact hung over all their discussions -
0:52:53 > 0:52:56the Red Army already occupied Eastern Europe.
0:52:56 > 0:53:02And because of their vast resources of men and materials, Stalin wasn't prepared to give an inch.
0:53:04 > 0:53:08At the end of the final session, Stalin put his name to a document
0:53:08 > 0:53:15promising free and unfettered elections in all the countries occupied by the Red Army.
0:53:15 > 0:53:18They never happened.
0:53:18 > 0:53:21Within weeks, Churchill had written to Roosevelt
0:53:21 > 0:53:25saying that he thought they'd signed up to a fraudulent manifesto.
0:53:25 > 0:53:29This was scant consolation for the people of the Baltic states,
0:53:29 > 0:53:33of Poland, Hungary, Czechoslovakia and Romania.
0:53:33 > 0:53:36For us, the war ended in 1945.
0:53:36 > 0:53:43For them, as a result of what was signed here it could have been said to have gone on for another 50 years.
0:53:43 > 0:53:47I'd always imagined Yalta to be a cold, grey place,
0:53:47 > 0:53:50so it's quite a shock to find it's the holiday destination of choice
0:53:50 > 0:53:56for Ukrainians and Russians, with packed beaches and some interesting twin cities.
0:53:56 > 0:54:00Pozzuoli, Italy,
0:54:00 > 0:54:03Rhodes, Greece,
0:54:03 > 0:54:06Sanya...
0:54:06 > 0:54:08China,
0:54:08 > 0:54:11Hujisawa, Japan!
0:54:11 > 0:54:15And Margate, England.
0:54:15 > 0:54:17Hello, Margate!
0:54:17 > 0:54:20You're remembered in Yalta.
0:54:23 > 0:54:29I wonder if those sandwiched on these beaches have any idea of Yalta's claim to fame?
0:54:29 > 0:54:34I ask Anya, a local girl who's working to bring even more tourists here.
0:54:34 > 0:54:39Do many of the people who come here, or indeed yourself who lives here,
0:54:39 > 0:54:44- do they know about the peace conference in Yalta in 1945? - Of course.
0:54:44 > 0:54:51In Levadia Palace where that was held is one of the most popular sightseeing objects.
0:54:51 > 0:54:58So people are aware that Stalin, and Churchill and Roosevelt got here, and the significance for Europe?
0:54:58 > 0:55:00That is true. That is correct.
0:55:00 > 0:55:02What do people think of Stalin?
0:55:06 > 0:55:10Erm, well, there are different points of view on that.
0:55:10 > 0:55:15Some people who remember the Communist days
0:55:15 > 0:55:20treat him as a very fair and very...firm leader.
0:55:20 > 0:55:27But some think that he was too cruel, I would say.
0:55:27 > 0:55:30What do you think, from your studies?
0:55:30 > 0:55:36I've studied from different books and I'm still looking for my answer.
0:55:36 > 0:55:43- You live here, would you go and sunbathe on a beach like that over there?- I know better places.
0:55:43 > 0:55:46I know my own places.
0:55:49 > 0:55:55Crimean politicians were traditionally pro-Moscow, but, as we walk along the prom
0:55:55 > 0:56:02I'm quite surprised to find the great revolutionary himself still on his feet, staring sternly out to sea.
0:56:04 > 0:56:09Why has Lenin survived here in Yalta, in the Ukraine, after all, not even in Russia,
0:56:09 > 0:56:12when in so many other places, they've removed him.
0:56:12 > 0:56:16Well, Crimea was Russian until 1954.
0:56:16 > 0:56:21And people here, like in the east of Ukraine, are pro-Russian,
0:56:21 > 0:56:24and many of them have positive, nice memories of the Soviet days,
0:56:24 > 0:56:29and it was decided to keep the monument as part of the historical heritage.
0:56:29 > 0:56:32After all, you cannot tear a page out of history, can you?
0:56:32 > 0:56:36But tonight is my last night here,
0:56:36 > 0:56:42and I decide to close the history books and surrender to the relentless hedonism of Margate's twin town.
0:56:53 > 0:56:58Now, if I were here with my grandson Archie, what he would want to see me doing?
0:57:00 > 0:57:03Oh, no. No! Not this!
0:57:05 > 0:57:12I've got a feeling there are things about Yalta that I shall remember even more than the peace conference.
0:57:12 > 0:57:14Here we go!
0:57:14 > 0:57:21Ooh! Woah! Ooh!
0:57:21 > 0:57:25Aargh! Wo-hoah!
0:57:25 > 0:57:29Argh! A-hargh!
0:57:29 > 0:57:35Woah! Ugh! Ugh!
0:57:35 > 0:57:39Ugh! Ugh!
0:57:41 > 0:57:44I'm glad I wore my jacket!
0:57:44 > 0:57:48Ha-ha! Now I can throw up in the pocket!
0:57:52 > 0:57:56This is the furthest east I'll get in New Europe.
0:57:56 > 0:57:58Next time I'll be in the Baltics.
0:57:58 > 0:58:00Aaargh!
0:58:00 > 0:58:04Weargh! Wo-hoah!
0:58:04 > 0:58:08Wo-hoah! We-hey!
0:58:08 > 0:58:14OK, I confess, I never wanted to do another series!
0:58:14 > 0:58:16Himalaya was enough for me!
0:58:18 > 0:58:21I'll never do another one! Wo-hoah!
0:58:21 > 0:58:25Archie, if you can see me now, I did it for you!
0:58:32 > 0:58:37Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd. Email subtitling@bbc.co.uk