Episode 10

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:00:00. > :00:13.wish to be part of that future. Now on BBC News, it's time for The

:00:14. > :00:18.Travel Show. For decades a pariah state, shunned and boycotted by

:00:19. > :00:21.Michael the world. Then basking in the glow of a president is loved by

:00:22. > :00:27.virtually everyone. This wild and beautiful country has had to earn

:00:28. > :00:31.its place on tourism's top table. On my journey, I come face`to`face with

:00:32. > :00:37.some fascinating characters, both human... And most definitely not.

:00:38. > :00:45.They are actually quite magnificent creatures. He is really close to me

:00:46. > :00:49.now. I will be driving along one of the most popular tourist groups ``

:00:50. > :00:57.tourist routes and meeting the locals, from taxi drivers to shark

:00:58. > :01:01.spotters. The people and places that make exploring this country such a

:01:02. > :01:04.unique experience. Today, South Africa is setting out its stall for

:01:05. > :01:47.the 21st century. A new chapter begins.

:01:48. > :01:52.Table Mountain in Cape Town. 60 million years old and hundreds

:01:53. > :01:59.millions more in the making. Over one kilometre high.

:02:00. > :02:23.Wow. It is part of why climbers climb. For the spectacular backdrop

:02:24. > :02:28.and, for that reason, keep town's climbers must be amongst the

:02:29. > :02:32.luckiest in the world. We are seeing Cape Town at its finest. Robben

:02:33. > :02:40.Island, the ocean, the harbour, the city centre.

:02:41. > :02:50.That is a famous island. Tell me about it. Robben Island, very famous

:02:51. > :02:54.for the reason that it was wet Nelson Mandela was imprisoned and

:02:55. > :02:57.where many political freedom fighters were sent during the

:02:58. > :03:02.struggle. They were looking at this mountain? And seeing it as a symbol

:03:03. > :03:11.of something, Freedom? And hope for the future, on making it to the land

:03:12. > :03:13.again to be free. Tourists, celebrities and politicians from

:03:14. > :03:22.sugar place where Nelson Mandela spent 18 years of his life. Now they

:03:23. > :03:25.are creating a national Mandela Trail, taking in museums, former

:03:26. > :03:28.homes and even the village where he was finally laid to rest in

:03:29. > :03:45.December. However, South Africa has also been

:03:46. > :03:53.exploring its options beyond Mandela for sometime now. It's a country of

:03:54. > :03:58.11 recognised languages, multiple creeds and colours and a population

:03:59. > :04:01.of around 50 million. Last year, it welcomed 10 million international

:04:02. > :04:05.travellers. And it's the country's cultural capital, Cape Town, that's

:04:06. > :04:16.the main draw for tourists. Cape Town is celebrated for its

:04:17. > :04:20.diverse city but the task now is to make good on the promises of the

:04:21. > :04:24.rainbow nation and fuse all the disparate elements together. What

:04:25. > :04:28.better way to do this than on a new bus service that promises to connect

:04:29. > :04:36.communities that used to be worlds apart. This new route, for instance,

:04:37. > :04:42.links the city centre and shanty towns with coastal districts, like

:04:43. > :04:45.this one which has some of the most expensive real estate in South

:04:46. > :04:52.Africa. And it's not hard to strike up a conversation with a stranger.

:04:53. > :05:00.It is actually my anniversary today. It's your anniversary? The bus

:05:01. > :05:03.network began shortly before the football World Cup here in 2010 and

:05:04. > :05:13.now they are being rolled out across Cape Town. Nice to meet you. Enjoy

:05:14. > :05:19.your stay in Cape Town. Thank you. Nice to be on in my city bus for the

:05:20. > :05:25.first time. It may be intended as a symbol of a bright future at my city

:05:26. > :05:33.bus could put people like this driver out of a job. `` but My City.

:05:34. > :05:37.By replacing traditional minibus taxi services that, for decades,

:05:38. > :05:46.have been servicing poorer parts of the city. This man works 17 hours a

:05:47. > :05:59.day, seven days a week. Not that he is downbeat, far from it. For me, to

:06:00. > :06:03.be honest, life is good. Before, we weren't allowed in certain places

:06:04. > :06:16.but now Cape Town is for everybody. The best place to be in Cape Town,

:06:17. > :06:27.you must just be yourself. It is the best city to be.

:06:28. > :06:37.But on further investigation, there are still some parts of town

:06:38. > :06:41.off`limits for his van. In terms of where we are going, where we will

:06:42. > :06:43.drive past, they don't allow us taxis to go inside. That's the worst

:06:44. > :06:56.thing that irritates me. But even worse than that is the

:06:57. > :07:00.ongoing threat of violence. Rivalry over routes is spilled out into

:07:01. > :07:04.armed clashes between operators. One estimate puts the death toll in big

:07:05. > :07:10.taxi wars at more than 2000, in the past 20 years. One of the worst

:07:11. > :07:17.things you have seen in terms of the violence? `` what are the worst. The

:07:18. > :07:19.worst things I saw in the taxi wars was where a few individuals stopped

:07:20. > :07:27.the taxi and started shooting the driver and the passengers. I think

:07:28. > :07:34.four or six passengers died in that violence. It is the worst and I will

:07:35. > :07:39.never forget it. Key has applied to be a bus driver and his hope is to

:07:40. > :07:46.escape the threat of islands with his current job. `` he has applied.

:07:47. > :07:53.He has passed the test with flying colours and has been promised the

:07:54. > :07:57.job but has still heard nothing. These people are growing up in a

:07:58. > :08:05.very different time, in a very different city to the one in which

:08:06. > :08:08.he grew up. They represent the future of the place that the New

:08:09. > :08:13.York Times recently declared the number one destination in the world.

:08:14. > :08:17.These twentysomethings are known as born frees as they have only known

:08:18. > :08:21.democracy in their lifetimes. And they are feeling largely very

:08:22. > :08:29.positive. Do you know how beautiful this country is? Aside from the

:08:30. > :08:34.negativity, we are so laid back, we enjoy life, we are trying to change.

:08:35. > :08:38.We are literally only ten years old with the democracy, so we are

:08:39. > :08:42.getting there one day at a time. This particular crowd are born free,

:08:43. > :08:47.so the integration is a lot more seamless. My generation, we still

:08:48. > :08:50.had the boundaries of... It in your mind and you can't break through it

:08:51. > :08:53.and it's just there. It takes a lot of hard work. Whereas the born frees

:08:54. > :08:56.are seamlessly intermingling and integrated. We still have

:08:57. > :09:08.resistance. False bay, just outside Cape Town,

:09:09. > :09:13.so named because the first Portuguese explorers in the late

:09:14. > :09:17.15th century Mr Gittany southernmost point of Africa. Hence the warmer

:09:18. > :09:21.waters of the Indian Ocean. But it is an incredibly rich and plentiful

:09:22. > :09:30.marine environment. And a favourite for shark spotters. South Africa has

:09:31. > :09:34.wildlife in abundance and we have a real think you about chasing

:09:35. > :09:40.thrills, I getting up close and personal with dangerous exotic

:09:41. > :09:43.animals. On land, hunting lions, specially bred for that purpose, is

:09:44. > :09:48.proving controversial on the grounds of cruelty. Here, in the ocean,

:09:49. > :10:01.there is one iconic creature that is more than willing to play the game.

:10:02. > :10:05.The main attraction is the great white shark, the lion of the sea,

:10:06. > :10:09.apex predator, as our two operator called it. In order for the shark to

:10:10. > :10:14.pass the case, we have to attracted with the decoy. When the shark comes

:10:15. > :10:19.into the area, it notices the head of the bait hook and notices what

:10:20. > :10:26.the symbols `` what resembles a dead seal. It will attempt to go for it.

:10:27. > :10:31.It is like a cat and mouse game. We will try to lure is as close as

:10:32. > :10:34.possible. It is true this rocky island has one rich source of

:10:35. > :10:58.nutrition. 60,000 seals live in this colony. This bait is called charm.

:10:59. > :11:11.There may be 3000 sharks in the water but only 480 have been spotted

:11:12. > :11:21.like this over the years. Up to 5000 tourists go cage diving with sharks

:11:22. > :11:24.every week. It is big business in Cape Town now but surfers and

:11:25. > :11:29.environmentalists argue that in doing sharks into shallower waters

:11:30. > :11:35.and giving them no food puts both the sharks and local swimmers and

:11:36. > :11:42.surfers at risk. The shark cage diving operators beg to differ on

:11:43. > 1:24:17offcourse. We are in an area where sharks naturally range to hunt

1:24:18 > 1:24:17seals. The island itself is naturally attracting the sharks.

1:24:18 > 1:24:17There have only been several attacks reported in the past year in the

1:24:18 > 1:24:17whole of South Africa, so it's important not to exaggerate the

1:24:18 > 1:24:17problem. But you can still see, carved into this surfer's feet, the

1:24:18 > 1:24:17reason why sharks and people don't necessarily mix. One jaw on the

1:24:18 > 1:24:17site, the other on that side. It was like that. I was on my stomach. It

1:24:18 > 1:24:17was like this. It bit me like that and then went down.

1:24:18 > 1:24:17He was lucky. He was rescued by another surfer and his feet survived

1:24:18 > 1:24:17the ferocity of the fight. He blames the shark viewing industry for the

1:24:18 > 1:24:17attack. Now that people are using it as a tourist attraction, obviously

1:24:18 > 1:24:17it is increasing the population of sharks especially here. I am on a

1:24:18 > 1:24:17journey to the how South Africa is evolving post` Mandela and would

1:24:18 > 1:24:17experience it will offer for travelers. Time now to get out of

1:24:18 > 1:24:17the city and head east into a more rural landscape. This is just off

1:24:18 > 1:24:17the garden route about three hours from Cape Town. It is the ostrich

1:24:18 > 1:24:17farming capital and claims to have the largest population of the bird

1:24:18 > 1:24:17that can famously not fly. But I am not here to meet them. No, this is a

1:24:18 > 1:24:17world's first experience. Never been opened into the public until

1:24:18 > 1:24:17recently, I am told, which is... Reassuring. The owners seem pretty

1:24:18 > 1:24:17chilled out today. As do the alligators. Snacking on meat does

1:24:18 > 1:24:17not seem high on their priority list. They are actually quite

1:24:18 > 1:24:17magnificent creatures. If you look closely, they are actually

1:24:18 > 1:24:17remarkably beautiful, really. They lived to 120 years old. But when

1:24:18 > 1:24:17they snap, you get very scared. They snap. Craig has worked at the ranch

1:24:18 > 1:24:17for 12 years and this is that unlike sharks, rocket Isles the humans as

1:24:18 > 1:24:17prey. Sharks you have to go quite deep to find them, even though there

1:24:18 > 1:24:17have been some bite in shallow waters. Crocodiles are unforgiving

1:24:18 > 1:24:17and they will take you out on the river edge. They will sneak up close

1:24:18 > 1:24:17to the water, especially when it is murky and they can get very close

1:24:18 > 1:24:17without their prey even knowing that they are there and then they can

1:24:18 > 1:24:17grab them and pull them back in. So it is from the crocodile's mouth and

1:24:18 > 1:24:17into the lion's Dan, well, a bus with a bunch of human backpackers.

1:24:18 > 1:24:17`` den. Most people who travel here use their own transport, but if you

1:24:18 > 1:24:17want to be with adventurous travelers come up there is only one

1:24:18 > 1:24:17way. On a bus. Every year this bus takes more than 100 backpackers,

1:24:18 > 1:24:17stopping at all the major towns and beaches on the route. It is the

1:24:18 > 1:24:17United Nations of a cluster with people from everywhere. You started

1:24:18 > 1:24:17out at nine o'clock this morning? That's right. They have been

1:24:18 > 1:24:17stopping at every large picking up people. I must confess, it has been

1:24:18 > 1:24:17an incredible ride, meeting people from all over the world. All of

1:24:18 > 1:24:17these youngsters. It is just amazing. And to our final stop. This

1:24:18 > 1:24:17resort town is a popular hiking paradise on the Western Cape and

1:24:18 > 1:24:17thanks to its Mediterranean climate it is surrounded by lush scenery.

1:24:18 > 1:24:17The properties here are among the most expensive in Africa. But peace

1:24:18 > 1:24:17here has been rudely broken in recent times. I am in the hills here

1:24:18 > 1:24:17now looking over the town and I am about to enter a luxury residential

1:24:18 > 1:24:17complex. As you might imagine, they are very into security here and have

1:24:18 > 1:24:17been cracking down on intruders in recent years. But the intruders are

1:24:18 > 1:24:17not human, a R baboon 's. `` they are baboon. Three troops of baboons

1:24:18 > 1:24:17are the main hope Ritz, wreaking havoc on the estate `` culprits.

1:24:18 > 1:24:17This man is in charge of operations to repel the invasion 's. They are

1:24:18 > 1:24:17like a little strikeforce. They attack, grab and run. Before, they

1:24:18 > 1:24:17would not move, they would sit there and they were not scared of you. My

1:24:18 > 1:24:17goal was to get them back to being scared of people and seeing us as a

1:24:18 > 1:24:17predator and not hanging around. Basically, being more baboon. Each

1:24:18 > 1:24:17troop is led by an alpha male who calls the shots. The renegade

1:24:18 > 1:24:17dethroned alpha males are causing trouble as is the propensity of

1:24:18 > 1:24:17people not disposing of rubbish properly. He has the counterattack

1:24:18 > 1:24:17down to a fine art. My goal was to control the alpha males and I became

1:24:18 > 1:24:17a baboon. I think like one and I am the alpha male of the whole estate.

1:24:18 > 1:24:17I have monitors and they are also classified as alpha male. All of the

1:24:18 > 1:24:17others will submit to myself and my helpers. And one of those monitors

1:24:18 > 1:24:17is Emily. She walks 20 km a day on patrol and her job is to react to

1:24:18 > 1:24:17any reports of break`ins. They are capable of opening doors and windows

1:24:18 > 1:24:17and are blessed with excellent site and the smell. What do you think

1:24:18 > 1:24:17about them? Are they like humans? How do you regard them?

1:24:18 > 1:24:17But the operations against the public enemy number one have been

1:24:18 > 1:24:17very successful. In 2011 there were 36 raids, down to 28 the following

1:24:18 > 1:24:17year and a zero in the past wealth months. Since work started, house

1:24:18 > 1:24:17values have tripled and homeowners are very happy indeed. However, down

1:24:18 > 1:24:17in the town there are no patrols and problems persist. They gained access

1:24:18 > 1:24:17over here... This man came back from his short holiday to find his

1:24:18 > 1:24:17customized dream home had been rated. They ripped the curtains

1:24:18 > 1:24:17down, they removed most of the soft furnishings, he urinated on the

1:24:18 > 1:24:17couch and went into the kitchen and pantry area and raped every bit of

1:24:18 > 1:24:17food out of the cupboards. It was scattered all over the floor. If

1:24:18 > 1:24:17they didn't do this, would you think they are cute animals? I still think

1:24:18 > 1:24:17they are. We South Africans love animals and I think guys in certain

1:24:18 > 1:24:17parts of the world would go and shoot them but we do not do things

1:24:18 > 1:24:17like that in South Africa. Of course, what they need is a man like

1:24:18 > 1:24:17this who can intimidate a baboon like no other top yellow basically,

1:24:18 > 1:24:17I try to be like a baboon, you know the noises. It would frighten

1:24:18 > 1:24:17anyone. So as they reached the end of my all too brief encounter with

1:24:18 > 1:24:17post` Mandela South Africa about what have I learned? Well, first of

1:24:18 > 1:24:17all this is where you should head if you love the great outdoors and

1:24:18 > 1:24:17natural beauty. Everyone here certainly seems to, much more than

1:24:18 > 1:24:17in any other country I have visited. From stunning mountain peak

1:24:18 > 1:24:17abuse to natural wildlife in abundance on land and in the sea,

1:24:18 > 1:24:17this is a godsend for adventure lovers and in the Buddhist of the

1:24:18 > 1:24:172010 World Cup and the Mandela legacy factor, the future looks

1:24:18 > 1:24:17promising for South Africa. I would certainly come back for more `` in

1:24:18 > 1:24:17the shadow. Issues surrounding apartheid and inequality remain and

1:24:18 > 1:24:17you would be a fool not to notice or acknowledge it. It will take

1:24:18 > 1:24:17generations for that to work itself through what I do think that more

1:24:18 > 1:24:17international tourism will speed up the process.

1:24:18 > 1:24:17It was a fairly gloomy and wet end to the working week. There will be

1:24:18 > 1:24:17sunny spells, but it is a mixed bag. It will be blustery in the south and

1:24:18 > 1:24:18there will be showers