Kerala

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0:00:00 > 0:00:03ahead of elections.

0:00:03 > 0:00:07Brian Hungwe reporting.

0:00:07 > 0:00:07Time

0:00:07 > 0:00:08Time for

0:00:08 > 0:00:08Time for the

0:00:08 > 0:00:10Time for the Travel Show.

0:00:10 > 0:00:14You have got about 20 good metres to climb and if you run out

0:00:14 > 0:00:22of strength halfway, it is not going to be pretty.

0:00:44 > 0:00:47Hello and welcome to The Travel Show coming to you this week from Kerala

0:00:47 > 0:00:49in India with me, Henry Golding.

0:00:49 > 0:00:52One of the things that this part of the country is famous

0:00:52 > 0:00:55for is its houseboats.

0:00:55 > 0:00:57They've plied the backwaters of towns like this one,

0:00:57 > 0:01:00offering a unique view of rural Indian life but what effect

0:01:00 > 0:01:06will all that tourism have in the long run?

0:01:06 > 0:01:07One, two, three, go!

0:01:07 > 0:01:10And later on, I will also be discovering which is faster.

0:01:10 > 0:01:11Careful.

0:01:11 > 0:01:14Man or a machine in the battle of the coconut tree climbers.

0:01:14 > 0:01:28But first off, Kerala 's calling card is its unique backwaters.

0:01:28 > 0:01:31A labyrinth of canals, rivers and lakes running 900

0:01:31 > 0:01:37kilometres through the state.

0:01:37 > 0:01:40I have been told that the best way to experience the true flavours

0:01:40 > 0:01:46of the backwaters is on one of these things, a houseboat,

0:01:46 > 0:01:52so why don't we jump aboard?

0:01:52 > 0:01:5525 years ago, the houseboat industry did not exist but in 1991,

0:01:55 > 0:01:57the tour operators saw the potential in modifying defunct

0:01:57 > 0:02:02boats for tourists.

0:02:02 > 0:02:09It was an instant hit and revolutionised tourism here.

0:02:09 > 0:02:11From humble beginnings, many now have state-of-the-art

0:02:11 > 0:02:16fixtures and fittings.

0:02:16 > 0:02:18Look at this.

0:02:18 > 0:02:20When you hear you're coming onto a houseboat,

0:02:20 > 0:02:22you're not really sure what to expect but this level

0:02:22 > 0:02:27of luxury is pretty mind blowing.

0:02:27 > 0:02:30You have all the mod cons, television, satellite television,

0:02:30 > 0:02:33air con to keep you cool in that Indian heat,

0:02:33 > 0:02:39but what is really surprising, have a look at this bathroom.

0:02:39 > 0:02:44Massive.

0:02:44 > 0:02:48From just a handful of boats in the 90s there are now more

0:02:48 > 0:02:50than 1000, offering people a unique insight into village life

0:02:50 > 0:03:00along the waterways.

0:03:00 > 0:03:02There has been a very fast, dramatic change in the region

0:03:02 > 0:03:03due to tourism.

0:03:03 > 0:03:06It has become big business for tour operators like Biju George.

0:03:06 > 0:03:09What is the actual draw for a lot of tourists to come

0:03:09 > 0:03:12here and experience the backwaters?

0:03:12 > 0:03:16This region is called the Venice of the East and the natural beauty

0:03:16 > 0:03:19of the region is one of the main attractions and it is why

0:03:19 > 0:03:23people come here.

0:03:23 > 0:03:24To see and enjoy this region.

0:03:24 > 0:03:28I have noticed that we have opened up to this huge lake here,

0:03:28 > 0:03:29absolutely stunning, what is this place?

0:03:29 > 0:03:32This is the largest lake in Southern India, it is almost 35

0:03:32 > 0:03:36kilometres at a stretch, it is a huge lake.

0:03:36 > 0:03:41It almost looks like a sea, it is so big.

0:03:41 > 0:03:47Time for me to take the helm.

0:03:47 > 0:03:49Do you want me to be in charge of this thing?

0:03:49 > 0:03:52Sure, it is on you, though!

0:03:52 > 0:03:54All right.

0:03:54 > 0:03:55OK.

0:03:55 > 0:03:58Give me the tips.

0:03:58 > 0:03:58A lot of steering.

0:03:58 > 0:04:06It is quite loose.

0:04:06 > 0:04:12Which way are they going?

0:04:12 > 0:04:21Usually it is very relaxed, apart from trying to dodge these boats!

0:04:23 > 0:04:25The houseboat industry has created incredible wealth for the region

0:04:25 > 0:04:28and benefited lots of locals from boat builders and owners

0:04:28 > 0:04:35to hoteliers and tour operators.

0:04:35 > 0:04:38But what has been the cost to the environment?

0:04:38 > 0:04:41Now it looks like we have had a bit of congestion,

0:04:41 > 0:04:44the problem being that most of these houseboats actually leave

0:04:44 > 0:04:48at the same time so these riverways get packed up and pretty much act

0:04:48 > 0:04:59like superhighways for these things.

0:04:59 > 0:05:02Where there is a high boom of tourism, in the limited period

0:05:02 > 0:05:05of time, there is always this issue.

0:05:05 > 0:05:09So none of the systems were prepared or aware what we could do and how

0:05:09 > 0:05:25we can manage this.

0:05:25 > 0:05:27Everyone thought about the business side of it, nobody thought

0:05:27 > 0:05:29about the sustainability side of the business.

0:05:29 > 0:05:32Some say there has been an increase in pollution and that has affected

0:05:32 > 0:05:34the locals who depend on the backwaters.

0:05:34 > 0:05:37Early the next morning, I went to see for myself what impact

0:05:37 > 0:05:41environmental groups claim tourism is having on the community.

0:05:41 > 0:05:44These guys have obviously come out very early in the morning,

0:05:44 > 0:05:46the sun is still coming up, isn't it?

0:05:46 > 0:05:48What are they doing?

0:05:48 > 0:06:00They are pulling out the clams from the bottom of the lake.

0:06:00 > 0:06:08They come out early in the morning, around 4:00am, and they go back

0:06:08 > 0:06:08around 10:00pm, 10:30pm.

0:06:08 > 0:06:11Sudha Soni is a campaigner who grew up around the lake.

0:06:11 > 0:06:15They rely on the lake.

0:06:15 > 0:06:18Yes, and this has been going on for generations.

0:06:18 > 0:06:21So how does the pollution of the water affect

0:06:21 > 0:06:21the industry here?

0:06:21 > 0:06:23Two ways.

0:06:23 > 0:06:31One, the pollution of the water stunts the growth of the clams.

0:06:31 > 0:06:38The second thing, the rake which they put into the water

0:06:38 > 0:06:40to collect the clam, the net that is attached

0:06:40 > 0:06:42to it sometimes brings up the waste

0:06:42 > 0:06:44that is thrown into the lake.

0:06:44 > 0:06:46Sudha is working in conjunction with the environmental group

0:06:46 > 0:06:48Tourism Concern on a new system of enforced regulations

0:06:48 > 0:06:49and certification for houseboats.

0:06:49 > 0:06:58She believes they cause much of the damage.

0:06:58 > 0:07:01Tour operators sitting abroad don't know what kind of boat it is.

0:07:01 > 0:07:05So when this particular certification is there,

0:07:05 > 0:07:08they are confident, yes, and that will make it more

0:07:08 > 0:07:10credible and authentic.

0:07:10 > 0:07:12One of the benefits of travelling by river is whatever

0:07:12 > 0:07:18tickles your fancy along the banks, you can stop, get off and explore.

0:07:18 > 0:07:21I have decided that this church looks pretty beautiful so I am

0:07:21 > 0:07:27going to take some photographs of it.

0:07:31 > 0:07:36Kerala has some of the oldest Catholic churches in India.

0:07:36 > 0:07:46This hidden gem was founded in the fifth century.

0:07:46 > 0:07:49But ultimately it is the houseboats that have given

0:07:49 > 0:07:56Kerala global recognition.

0:07:56 > 0:08:03We have people from all over the world, but to be precise,

0:08:03 > 0:08:13maybe from Europe, from Australia, the US, even from the Middle East,

0:08:13 > 0:08:15because that's the new market that we've developed.

0:08:15 > 0:08:18Jobin Akkarakkalam runs some of the largest and most palatial

0:08:18 > 0:08:18boats on the waterways.

0:08:18 > 0:08:23His vessels are registered on the government scheme

0:08:23 > 0:08:25which awards classification certificates for quality

0:08:25 > 0:08:28and sustainability.

0:08:28 > 0:08:31The government has got a gold star, green star classification given

0:08:31 > 0:08:33to the houseboats.

0:08:33 > 0:08:41They have regular inspections from the government authorities.

0:08:41 > 0:08:43They have the pollution control board inspecting our boats,

0:08:43 > 0:08:48they renew the licence every year.

0:08:48 > 0:08:52But not all boat owners are currently signed up

0:08:52 > 0:08:54to the scheme, and environmentalists are calling for all boats

0:08:54 > 0:08:56to have compulsory checks to protect

0:08:56 > 0:09:02the people and wildlife that live here.

0:09:02 > 0:09:04This could really be one of the most sustainable tourism products

0:09:04 > 0:09:13in the world.

0:09:13 > 0:09:17This could be an example for a lot of other destinations in different

0:09:17 > 0:09:18parts of the world.

0:09:18 > 0:09:20If we can use the system to maintain the entire region,

0:09:20 > 0:09:25this could be great.

0:09:32 > 0:09:36Coming up later on in the programme: I find out what it takes to become

0:09:36 > 0:09:42one of Kerala's top tree climbers.

0:09:42 > 0:09:45I think I'm going to rip my pants!

0:09:45 > 0:09:52The Travel Show, your essential guide wherever you're heading.

0:09:52 > 0:09:55Next up, Kerala is the home of Kathakali, an intricate form

0:09:55 > 0:09:58of classical dance that has been performed here for centuries

0:09:58 > 0:10:01and is now high on the list of things many tourists come

0:10:01 > 0:10:09here to see.

0:10:12 > 0:10:15To learn more about Kathakali, I have come here to meet a man whose

0:10:15 > 0:10:19family have been performing the dance for the past 100 years.

0:10:19 > 0:10:21How are you?

0:10:21 > 0:10:22Good to see you.

0:10:22 > 0:10:24Thank you very much.

0:10:24 > 0:10:25This is your theatre?

0:10:25 > 0:10:28Amazing.

0:10:32 > 0:10:34Central to Kathakali is the complex ritual make-up which turns

0:10:34 > 0:10:41the performers into supernatural beings, gods and demons.

0:10:41 > 0:10:51The process of applying the make-up can take many hours and here,

0:10:51 > 0:10:53it is applied directly in front of the audience,

0:10:53 > 0:10:59and forms part of the performance.

0:10:59 > 0:11:09There's a singer, who sings the stories.

0:11:09 > 0:11:10Then there is a drummer.

0:11:10 > 0:11:16He supports.

0:11:16 > 0:11:18The dancer translates the songs through movement of eyebrows,

0:11:18 > 0:11:25eyes, fingers, footwork.

0:11:25 > 0:11:35And all these stories come from the Hindu books.

0:11:35 > 0:11:37Originally developed as a way of teaching religious scripture

0:11:37 > 0:11:40to rural audiences, Kathakali is also now a big draw for tourists

0:11:40 > 0:11:44coming here to Kerala.

0:11:44 > 0:11:49I am very curious to know, how do you tell a story

0:11:49 > 0:11:56with your eyebrows, your cheeks, your lips and your fingers?

0:11:56 > 0:12:01Can you teach me?

0:12:01 > 0:12:03To start with, there are 24 alphabets in the language.

0:12:03 > 0:12:06Each alphabet forms a position of the hand.

0:12:06 > 0:12:08Show me a segment of how you would use the alphabet

0:12:08 > 0:12:12to tell the story?

0:12:12 > 0:12:15Come.

0:12:15 > 0:12:18And so with the eye movements, what different types of eye

0:12:18 > 0:12:23movements do you have?

0:12:23 > 0:12:29With the eyes, you can see he is getting excited.

0:12:29 > 0:12:32And then?

0:12:32 > 0:12:37Up and sideways.

0:12:37 > 0:12:40I think it is me being an amateur but when I tried to do it,

0:12:40 > 0:12:43my vision blurs, but your vision does not blur.

0:12:43 > 0:12:47OK.

0:12:47 > 0:12:50You focus in the distance.

0:12:50 > 0:12:53I am focusing up here, that is why I am cross-eyed!

0:12:53 > 0:12:57That is the secret.

0:12:57 > 0:12:59The flower opening.

0:12:59 > 0:13:02Once you combine the facial expressions with hand gestures,

0:13:02 > 0:13:05then you have a classic Kathakali sentence, but something tells me,

0:13:05 > 0:13:13I have got some way to go before I could ever be understood.

0:13:20 > 0:13:22Bees coming to the flower.

0:13:22 > 0:13:25Bees.

0:13:35 > 0:13:40Team those moves with some fancy footwork and you have a performance,

0:13:40 > 0:13:50in theory at least.

0:13:55 > 0:13:57That is very good.

0:13:57 > 0:13:58Very impressive.

0:13:58 > 0:14:05I am not very good at all, am I?

0:14:05 > 0:14:08Imagine with all the make-up on, the full regalia, probably about 100

0:14:08 > 0:14:12people looking at you and that Indian heat to challenge you,

0:14:12 > 0:14:14the scrutiny of every single step and tiny movement,

0:14:14 > 0:14:26I will crack under pressure.

0:14:26 > 0:14:28Traditionally, a classic Kathakali performance,

0:14:28 > 0:14:33will run for many hours, sometimes a whole night,

0:14:33 > 0:14:35but some modern audiences have shorter attention spans

0:14:35 > 0:14:39so the artform has had to adapt.

0:14:39 > 0:14:41You know, the original one goes throughout the night.

0:14:41 > 0:14:46Everything is detailed, everything is intricate,

0:14:46 > 0:14:49and nowadays, we are adapting it for a one and a half

0:14:49 > 0:14:53or two hour programme.

0:14:53 > 0:14:56In a way, we lose our originality, what has been done throughout

0:14:56 > 0:15:03the night, that is not being shown now.

0:15:03 > 0:15:06The fire god.

0:15:06 > 0:15:08But whether the performance is a marathon length all night

0:15:08 > 0:15:11or something more contained, the highlight of the show is always

0:15:11 > 0:15:13the appearance onstage of Pacca, wearing his traditional

0:15:13 > 0:15:15green make up.

0:15:15 > 0:15:20And using steps originally choreographed hundreds

0:15:20 > 0:15:38of years ago to entertain and captivate audiences of today.

0:15:38 > 0:15:41To end this week, Kerala is the coconut capital of India,

0:15:41 > 0:15:43because more are harvested here than any other state.

0:15:43 > 0:15:48I have come to find out what it takes to become

0:15:48 > 0:15:57a champion coconut picker.

0:15:57 > 0:16:01In Kerala there are coconut trees almost everywhere.

0:16:01 > 0:16:03The state produces 6 billion coconuts annually, that is nearly

0:16:03 > 0:16:13one for every man, woman and child in the entire world.

0:16:13 > 0:16:21And incredibly, most of them are still picked by hand.

0:16:21 > 0:16:28He is one of Kerala's premier coconut pickers.

0:16:28 > 0:16:35It takes him just seconds to shimmy all the way up the slender trunk.

0:16:35 > 0:16:39That was unbelievable.

0:16:39 > 0:16:41You are so strong, that was so good.

0:16:41 > 0:16:43How high is this?

0:16:43 > 0:16:4530 metres.

0:16:45 > 0:16:48And you did it like it was a Sunday stroll.

0:16:48 > 0:16:49He is 52 years old.

0:16:49 > 0:16:5252 years old.

0:16:52 > 0:16:56You are pretty much half my age added on, I should be able to do

0:16:56 > 0:16:57that quicker than you.

0:16:57 > 0:16:59I do not know whether that will be the case.

0:16:59 > 0:17:01How many coconuts does he collect a day?

0:17:01 > 0:17:0240 coconuts per day.

0:17:02 > 0:17:08Some places in Kerala are now teaching tourists the art of coconut

0:17:08 > 0:17:10tree climbing so let us see if I am up

0:17:10 > 0:17:16to the challenge.

0:17:16 > 0:17:18LAUGHTER.

0:17:18 > 0:17:25I want to hoist myself up but my arms, they just will not obey.

0:17:25 > 0:17:34I think I'm going to rip my pants!

0:17:34 > 0:17:37This is tough!

0:17:37 > 0:17:40The numbers of climbers have fallen dramatically as the younger

0:17:40 > 0:17:45generation have gradually moved away from manual jobs.

0:17:46 > 0:17:50I think it is a bit of a marathon, you have to think of it

0:17:50 > 0:17:53as a marathon, you have 20 good metres to climb and if you run out

0:17:53 > 0:17:56of strength halfway, it is not going to be pretty.

0:17:56 > 0:18:03I think that is it for me.

0:18:03 > 0:18:06How does he do it?

0:18:06 > 0:18:09My feet, I think it is because I have got soft everything,

0:18:09 > 0:18:11I am a wimp.

0:18:11 > 0:18:16You're much stronger than I am.

0:18:16 > 0:18:19The coconut industry is worth billions of dollars,

0:18:19 > 0:18:22so the decline of manual climbers has called

0:18:22 > 0:18:33for modernisation of sorts.

0:18:33 > 0:18:37That looks so much easier.

0:18:37 > 0:18:40The state government has tried everything from competitions

0:18:40 > 0:18:43to prize-money to find a machine that can entice

0:18:43 > 0:18:45people back into the job.

0:18:45 > 0:18:47This one invented by a local farmer has proved

0:18:47 > 0:18:50relatively simple to operate.

0:18:50 > 0:18:52Just right there?

0:18:52 > 0:18:53OK.

0:18:53 > 0:18:54Lift there, and there.

0:18:54 > 0:18:57Great.

0:18:57 > 0:19:00All the way up.

0:19:00 > 0:19:05It is definitely a lot easier.

0:19:05 > 0:19:08I may have spoken too soon.

0:19:08 > 0:19:11It is a lot tougher than it looks.

0:19:11 > 0:19:19Lift one, relax.

0:19:19 > 0:19:23You have got a lot less stress on your toes and your hands

0:19:23 > 0:19:26themselves, but getting this motion right is making me a little

0:19:26 > 0:19:34bit nervous.

0:19:34 > 0:19:44Nearly there.

0:19:44 > 0:19:46Wow!

0:19:46 > 0:19:50It does make it a little bit easier, I have to say, but I would

0:19:50 > 0:19:54like to put it to the test, the old method versus the new one,

0:19:54 > 0:19:55what do you think?

0:19:55 > 0:19:56Will we try it?

0:19:56 > 0:20:02All right.

0:20:02 > 0:20:08Over here, we have the traditional coconut tree climbers who will be

0:20:08 > 0:20:12using the ropes around their legs and whatnot and over on this side,

0:20:12 > 0:20:14we have the mechanically assisted one and we will find

0:20:14 > 0:20:16out who is the fastest.

0:20:16 > 0:20:22Three, two, one, go!

0:20:22 > 0:20:22They are pretty much neck and neck at the moment.

0:20:25 > 0:20:34The mechanically assisted ones are going a little bit faster.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37He has called the time, he has called the time.

0:20:37 > 0:20:41There you go.

0:20:41 > 0:20:55They are switching and the turnover is, go, go, go, go, go.

0:20:55 > 0:20:57The traditional climbers are doing very well indeed.

0:20:57 > 0:20:58Careful!

0:20:58 > 0:21:00We have found a chink in the armour.

0:21:00 > 0:21:03The mechanical one has a little bit of

0:21:03 > 0:21:06a problem coming down.

0:21:06 > 0:21:08LAUGHTER.

0:21:08 > 0:21:14Up, up, up, up.

0:21:14 > 0:21:16Take your time.

0:21:16 > 0:21:21He is doing well though.

0:21:21 > 0:21:27Yay!

0:21:27 > 0:21:32To the winners go the spoils.

0:21:32 > 0:21:40Oh, well!

0:21:40 > 0:21:42How does victory taste boys?

0:21:42 > 0:21:48Sweet.

0:21:48 > 0:21:51Sadly, that is all the time we have this week but join us next

0:21:51 > 0:21:55week if you can when...

0:21:55 > 0:22:00Carmen is in northern Peru at the Chaparri nature reserve.

0:22:00 > 0:22:03Where you will be meeting these guys, the Andean

0:22:03 > 0:22:05or Spectacled Bears.

0:22:05 > 0:22:11It is incredible to be so close to the bears.

0:22:11 > 0:22:14There is no gate, there is no fence separating us,

0:22:14 > 0:22:16she is just there, a few metres away.

0:22:16 > 0:22:19That is all coming up next week, but do not forget, you can join us

0:22:19 > 0:22:22in all of our travels wherever we are in the world

0:22:22 > 0:22:23by following our social media feeds.

0:22:23 > 0:22:25All the details should be on screen.

0:22:25 > 0:22:28From me, Henry Golding and the rest of the team here in

0:22:28 > 0:22:30Kerala, it is goodbye!