Episode 28

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0:00:03 > 0:00:06People have started to call this small Icelandic town

0:00:06 > 0:00:09the Pompeii of the North.

0:00:11 > 0:00:13In this week's programme, we find out why.

0:00:40 > 0:00:42Coming up on the programme this week...

0:00:42 > 0:00:45We're in Iceland to meet the people unearthing

0:00:45 > 0:00:48the past from beneath lava and ash.

0:00:48 > 0:00:51Some of them were melted because of the heat.

0:00:51 > 0:00:55See, the building is all, like, boiled.

0:00:55 > 0:00:57We're fighting our way through the final

0:00:57 > 0:01:00leg of our journey along Canada's Northwest Passage.

0:01:01 > 0:01:05And we take a 60-second stopover in Sydney.

0:01:11 > 0:01:14# Check the bass Oh, oh, yeah

0:01:14 > 0:01:16# Do me a favour. #

0:01:16 > 0:01:18Welcome to The Travel Show with me, Henry Golding,

0:01:18 > 0:01:22and this week I'm back in London and it's a place I know very well

0:01:22 > 0:01:25but stay tuned as I'll be going on a tour which promises to

0:01:25 > 0:01:30showcase this city in a whole new light. All I need is one of these.

0:01:30 > 0:01:31First...

0:01:31 > 0:01:33# Check it out, check it out... #

0:01:33 > 0:01:35As we've seen recently,

0:01:35 > 0:01:38Iceland is a country built on geological fault lines

0:01:38 > 0:01:42and is prone to volcanic activity.

0:01:42 > 0:01:45We send Joanne Whalley to the town of Heimaey,

0:01:45 > 0:01:50which suffered the full impact of nature's force in 1973 and survived.

0:01:50 > 0:01:52Well, just about.

0:01:57 > 0:02:01It's about 2:30 in the morning, my mother is calling my name

0:02:01 > 0:02:05and asking me, please, Helga, in a hurry get up, there is something

0:02:05 > 0:02:07terrible going on on the island.

0:02:07 > 0:02:08There is eruption.

0:02:16 > 0:02:21There was a big, big...one column of fire from the earth into the sky

0:02:21 > 0:02:24and it was really terrifying...

0:02:25 > 0:02:28..because I'd never seen so much fire.

0:02:32 > 0:02:36On 23rd January 1973, a volcano that hadn't

0:02:36 > 0:02:40erupted for 5,000 years ripped open the island of Heimaey.

0:02:44 > 0:02:48Ash and pieces of volcanic rock called tephra burst through

0:02:48 > 0:02:50a 2km tear in the earth.

0:02:53 > 0:02:55The call went up to evacuate the island.

0:02:55 > 0:02:59Helga was 17 at the time and fled her house with her boyfriend.

0:03:02 > 0:03:07I remember my boyfriend, he was holding his arms around me

0:03:07 > 0:03:11and tried to take the tephra out of my hair because we were covered...

0:03:12 > 0:03:14..our clothes were covered with that.

0:03:15 > 0:03:19The fissure has not only gone up the island

0:03:19 > 0:03:24and behind the old volcano, it was coming in, in the direction

0:03:24 > 0:03:28to the harbour and we could see the glowing lava on the ocean floor.

0:03:29 > 0:03:34At that moment we thought this is maybe it. This is our last moments.

0:03:37 > 0:03:41Incredibly, the 5,000 inhabitants managed to escape on boats

0:03:41 > 0:03:46and ships that had been docked in the harbour due to bad weather.

0:03:46 > 0:03:50There was only one death, caused by a gas explosion.

0:03:50 > 0:03:52All in all, the eruption lasted for five months.

0:03:53 > 0:03:56This amazing field of rocks and boulders was once

0:03:56 > 0:04:00a wall of molten lava headed right for Heimaey and you can just

0:04:00 > 0:04:04see through the mist how it's reached right up to people's back

0:04:04 > 0:04:07gardens but there were 400 unlucky homeowners

0:04:07 > 0:04:11and their houses are buried deep beneath my feet.

0:04:19 > 0:04:22It was a painful time for the people who had to go

0:04:22 > 0:04:24and live on the mainland as refugees.

0:04:24 > 0:04:27But now it's hoped the impact of that night can be used to

0:04:27 > 0:04:30bring tourists to this tiny fishing community.

0:04:32 > 0:04:36Archaeologists have been uncovering what's left of the houses,

0:04:36 > 0:04:39giving the island the nickname Pompeii of the North.

0:04:42 > 0:04:47Now an entire museum has been built around the remains of one of the homes.

0:04:47 > 0:04:50Now we are coming to the television room. This is the sofa.

0:04:50 > 0:04:52Gerda lived in this house.

0:04:52 > 0:04:55She evacuated with her three small children.

0:04:55 > 0:04:58The youngest was a newborn baby.

0:04:58 > 0:05:02- This is your baby's jumper? - Yes, yes. There's the sleeve.- Aw!

0:05:02 > 0:05:06And that's still all together.

0:05:06 > 0:05:12- And how did you feel when you saw this tiny jumper?- Difficult to see.

0:05:18 > 0:05:20Now we are going to the kitchen.

0:05:23 > 0:05:27Parts of the house were preserved by 50 metres of volcanic ash

0:05:27 > 0:05:31but you can see the impact of the intense heat.

0:05:31 > 0:05:33This metal spoon has melted away.

0:05:34 > 0:05:39It's a fascinating snapshot of Gerda's life 40 years ago

0:05:39 > 0:05:42but not all the island's inhabitants were as happy to dig up

0:05:42 > 0:05:45the remnants of a traumatic past.

0:05:45 > 0:05:48It's very difficult for some people.

0:05:48 > 0:05:52They relive the night they had to leave their houses

0:05:52 > 0:05:58and leave everything behind and... and just go on a fishing

0:05:58 > 0:06:02boat on a five-hour trip in not too good weather.

0:06:03 > 0:06:06Olafur manages the excavation project

0:06:06 > 0:06:10and also has a personal connection to these houses.

0:06:10 > 0:06:12I know from my parents, who had two boys,

0:06:12 > 0:06:15three and five years old in a fairly new house

0:06:15 > 0:06:19that they had spent a lot of time, a lot of money building,

0:06:19 > 0:06:22and it went under the lava, it was not a good time.

0:06:23 > 0:06:26They were actually at first not very happy about it

0:06:26 > 0:06:31but now they are OK and my mother said to me it was about time

0:06:31 > 0:06:33but you shouldn't have done it sooner.

0:06:33 > 0:06:38It was not the right moment sooner but it's been 40 years so it's OK.

0:06:42 > 0:06:47This picture was taken in March 1973 during the eruption.

0:06:47 > 0:06:51Helga now runs the Memorial cafe commemorating the eruption.

0:06:51 > 0:06:54But even she found it difficult to relive those experiences.

0:06:55 > 0:06:59So, you've been to see the new exhibition, what was that like?

0:06:59 > 0:07:01The first day when it opened

0:07:01 > 0:07:05and I was running in tears, it was very emotional for me.

0:07:05 > 0:07:08And I just decided, I will come back later.

0:07:08 > 0:07:10THEY SING

0:07:12 > 0:07:15For her, part of dealing with what happened that night is

0:07:15 > 0:07:19inviting tourists to her house for a traditional Icelandic meal

0:07:19 > 0:07:20and concert.

0:07:20 > 0:07:24And to tell them the story of her and her boyfriend's escape.

0:07:24 > 0:07:26THEY SING

0:07:28 > 0:07:31Over 40 years later, they are still together.

0:07:35 > 0:07:38And as for Gerda, she has now come to terms with seeing her

0:07:38 > 0:07:41belongings for the first time in decades

0:07:41 > 0:07:43and is proud that people can learn about the island's

0:07:43 > 0:07:47history by looking through the remains of her family's home.

0:07:47 > 0:07:51- TRANSLATION: - My husband said, "I am going to build a house once in my life.

0:07:51 > 0:07:54"It's going to be good and strong, no matter the cost."

0:07:54 > 0:07:56He was building it to be here for ever,

0:07:56 > 0:07:59and in a way, he was right.

0:07:59 > 0:08:02SINGING CONTINUES

0:08:05 > 0:08:09Joanne Whalley reporting there, and if you're planning a trip

0:08:09 > 0:08:10to Iceland, here's a Travel Show guide

0:08:10 > 0:08:13to things to think about before you go.

0:08:15 > 0:08:17Iceland is a beautiful country

0:08:17 > 0:08:21but beware, travellers from most countries

0:08:21 > 0:08:25will find things like eating and drinking out very expensive.

0:08:25 > 0:08:29The good news is that most of the attractions in Iceland

0:08:29 > 0:08:32are free of charge, with some notable exceptions

0:08:32 > 0:08:35like the Blue Lagoon and some private museums.

0:08:35 > 0:08:39So try to think before you go about how you can make your money

0:08:39 > 0:08:43stretch further by self-catering or cheaper travel options.

0:08:47 > 0:08:49For most travellers to Iceland,

0:08:49 > 0:08:52the Northern Lights are an unmissable attraction.

0:08:52 > 0:08:56The spectacular natural phenomenon is best seen between late September

0:08:56 > 0:08:59and early April.

0:08:59 > 0:09:01And if you're thinking of going next year,

0:09:01 > 0:09:04you may be in for an especially impressive light show.

0:09:04 > 0:09:08In 2015, the Northern Lights are expected to be some of

0:09:08 > 0:09:10the most spectacular.

0:09:14 > 0:09:17Despite what Iceland's name implies,

0:09:17 > 0:09:18temperatures are often mild.

0:09:21 > 0:09:25While they have been known to reach as low as minus 24 degrees

0:09:25 > 0:09:28centigrade, it's far more typical for temperatures to range

0:09:28 > 0:09:35from as low as minus 4 degrees in winter to 18 degrees in summer.

0:09:41 > 0:09:44Here's this week's travel update.

0:09:44 > 0:09:47First up this week, there's good news for travellers who want

0:09:47 > 0:09:49to use their electronic devices on planes.

0:09:51 > 0:09:55Australia's aviation authority has approved the use of smartphones,

0:09:55 > 0:09:59tablets and e-readers, as long as they are in flight mode,

0:09:59 > 0:10:01falling in line with similar decisions made in America

0:10:01 > 0:10:03and Europe last year.

0:10:03 > 0:10:05But not all flights will be covered by the new

0:10:05 > 0:10:09guidelines so make sure you check what your airline

0:10:09 > 0:10:10permits before you fly.

0:10:12 > 0:10:14In Italy, one of Rome's major sightseeing hotspots has been

0:10:14 > 0:10:19kept firmly on the tourist trail after some inventive building works.

0:10:19 > 0:10:21The world-famous Trevi Fountain

0:10:21 > 0:10:23has been undergoing restoration work

0:10:23 > 0:10:27but a transparent suspended walkway means visitors will still be

0:10:27 > 0:10:30able to see the masterpiece in all its glory.

0:10:31 > 0:10:35The restorations are expected to be completed by autumn 2015.

0:10:37 > 0:10:39And finally to Spain, where the

0:10:39 > 0:10:42annual Tomatina Festival saw contestants painting the town red.

0:10:44 > 0:10:46The festival, held annually at Bunol,

0:10:46 > 0:10:52had 22,000 revellers throwing 125 tonnes of ripe tomatoes at one

0:10:52 > 0:10:54another over one frenzied hour.

0:10:57 > 0:10:59Still to come...

0:11:04 > 0:11:08We'll be calling in the Canadian coastguard to help crack through

0:11:08 > 0:11:10the ice as we continue our journey along one

0:11:10 > 0:11:13of the world's most dangerous sea voyages.

0:11:13 > 0:11:17We've seen a bear in the area, we're confident that bear doesn't pose any immediate threat.

0:11:17 > 0:11:19But we want to be safe.

0:11:19 > 0:11:22And I'll be getting a masterclass in smartphone photography

0:11:22 > 0:11:24in London's East End.

0:11:24 > 0:11:28- Moving down, for example, and taking it from upwards.- Look at that.

0:11:29 > 0:11:30Instantly artier.

0:12:38 > 0:12:42Next up, we continue our journey through the Northwest Passage,

0:12:42 > 0:12:44a shipping route that links the North Atlantic

0:12:44 > 0:12:46and Arctic Oceans.

0:12:46 > 0:12:49It's impassable for most of the year due to its thick Arctic ice,

0:12:49 > 0:12:52and even when the ice melts during the summer, it's still

0:12:52 > 0:12:57a difficult crossing to attempt, as Karen Bowerman is finding out.

0:13:05 > 0:13:08It's another typical day in the Northwest Passage,

0:13:08 > 0:13:10but this isn't a typical excursion.

0:13:14 > 0:13:19We're calling at Devon Island, a place too bleak to sustain life.

0:13:19 > 0:13:24Wearing wet-weather gear and PFDs or life jackets, we head to the beach.

0:13:24 > 0:13:28But we are not the first visitors ashore.

0:13:28 > 0:13:31We're going to keep our PFDs on today. For obvious reasons.

0:13:31 > 0:13:32We've seen a bear in the area,

0:13:32 > 0:13:35we're confident it doesn't pose an immediate threat.

0:13:35 > 0:13:36But we want to be safe.

0:13:42 > 0:13:45Devon Island tells a story of struggle and survival.

0:13:45 > 0:13:47Back in the '20s, three Mounties,

0:13:47 > 0:13:50Royal Canadian Mounted Police, were sent to

0:13:50 > 0:13:53live here to guard the Passage.

0:13:53 > 0:13:56It's probably the most isolated job in the world.

0:13:59 > 0:14:02For the first two years the men here didn't even have a radio.

0:14:02 > 0:14:05The only news they got of the outside world came from a government ship

0:14:05 > 0:14:07bringing fuel and supplies.

0:14:07 > 0:14:11And that only visited once a year.

0:14:11 > 0:14:13# Oh, for just one time

0:14:13 > 0:14:18# I would take the Northwest Passage... #

0:14:18 > 0:14:21We tend to think of the Brits, they did it a lot,

0:14:21 > 0:14:24arrived somewhere and planted a flag for King and country.

0:14:24 > 0:14:25Or Queen and country.

0:14:25 > 0:14:28At a time when many other nations were showing

0:14:28 > 0:14:33interest in the North, Canada as a new nation was right to try

0:14:33 > 0:14:35and settle some of these areas.

0:14:35 > 0:14:41# ..To find the hand of Franklin reaching for the Beaufort Sea... #

0:14:41 > 0:14:46Even before then charting the Passage was a matter of huge national pride.

0:14:46 > 0:14:50As our own quest continues, we honour those who didn't make it,

0:14:50 > 0:14:55including the 19th-century British explorer John Franklin and his crew.

0:14:56 > 0:15:00If you can raise your glasses and drink to their health

0:15:00 > 0:15:03and their memories, to Franklin and the Northwest Passage.

0:15:07 > 0:15:11If you don't want to drink it, share it with these thirsty sailors!

0:15:12 > 0:15:16# ..Through a land so wide and savage

0:15:16 > 0:15:24# And make a Northwest Passage to the sea. #

0:15:24 > 0:15:28A few days later it's a beautiful morning at sea.

0:15:30 > 0:15:33But it soon clouds over and we hit ice.

0:15:35 > 0:15:37Is it that big a deal? Absolutely.

0:15:37 > 0:15:41If you look at the historical expeditions through this area,

0:15:41 > 0:15:46a lot of ships have been lost out here due to ice.

0:15:51 > 0:15:55The ice brings bears and while the animals move freely,

0:15:55 > 0:15:57we'll soon be stranded.

0:16:01 > 0:16:03What's more, the ice is blocking the Bellot Strait,

0:16:03 > 0:16:06our key to completing the Passage.

0:16:10 > 0:16:13Time to bring in the big guys, the Canadian Coastguard.

0:16:13 > 0:16:15'Good morning. Yes, sir.

0:16:15 > 0:16:20'Want to make contact with you, what kind of weather...'

0:16:20 > 0:16:23Luckily they happen to be close by and they are not short of tricks,

0:16:23 > 0:16:27which is just as well since we're not the only ones in a bit of a mess.

0:16:27 > 0:16:32'Roger that. Thank you very much. So we're standing by.'

0:16:37 > 0:16:4220 hours later, at twilight, we see the last of the ice.

0:16:48 > 0:16:51From then on it's plain sailing.

0:16:51 > 0:16:54And as the sun sets on 12 dramatic days at sea,

0:16:54 > 0:16:58we look back at an exhausting but exhilarating journey.

0:16:59 > 0:17:03Somehow, against the odds, we've made it through the Passage.

0:17:09 > 0:17:12Karen Bowerman reporting there from the Northwest Passage.

0:17:17 > 0:17:19This week I'm in London.

0:17:19 > 0:17:22Each year the city welcomes over 15 million people.

0:17:22 > 0:17:26Lots of them will come armed with a camera to soak up those

0:17:26 > 0:17:28iconic photo opportunities.

0:17:28 > 0:17:31As most of them are already carrying smartphones maybe

0:17:31 > 0:17:33they're missing a trick.

0:17:33 > 0:17:35Does it really have to be that way?

0:17:35 > 0:17:38Here in east London there is a tour with a difference

0:17:38 > 0:17:40and I thought I'd go and try for myself.

0:17:48 > 0:17:51East London has long held the crown as the hip part of town.

0:17:54 > 0:17:58It's awash with street art.

0:17:58 > 0:18:01So what better place to take a photography class?

0:18:01 > 0:18:05The idea today is about using what we carry every day as a way of

0:18:05 > 0:18:11seeing what's around us, a way of slowing down and looking at things.

0:18:11 > 0:18:15There are no £1,000 cameras here.

0:18:15 > 0:18:19Oh, no, we are using our smartphones.

0:18:19 > 0:18:21It's a really powerful camera and we're

0:18:21 > 0:18:24so used to seeing people use their phones all the time.

0:18:24 > 0:18:29That kind of buys you a ticket to get into small spaces

0:18:29 > 0:18:31full of lots of people, crowds,

0:18:31 > 0:18:33or take images of people doing stuff that maybe

0:18:33 > 0:18:37if you went in with a big camera that might not work in the same way.

0:18:38 > 0:18:42It's through these little lenses that tour hosts are showing us

0:18:42 > 0:18:44a new side of the city.

0:18:44 > 0:18:47But first we had to learn how to get the best out of them.

0:18:47 > 0:18:49The lights there...

0:18:49 > 0:18:54What I think works really well is choosing a background

0:18:54 > 0:18:57and waiting for something to break into that background.

0:18:57 > 0:19:01Take it from a snapshot or a note-taking exercise,

0:19:01 > 0:19:05to creating a feel of a place.

0:19:07 > 0:19:10'A few more hints and tips later and we hit the streets.'

0:19:13 > 0:19:16So, we've been unleashed onto the streets of London.

0:19:17 > 0:19:20Not quite sure what I'm going to take photos of.

0:19:20 > 0:19:23But everybody seems to be pointing in the direction of these walls.

0:19:23 > 0:19:25I'm missing something.

0:19:27 > 0:19:30You got some good lips there. I'm going to steal your...

0:19:30 > 0:19:31'I think I need'

0:19:31 > 0:19:34some personal tuition.

0:19:34 > 0:19:38If only just to stop me stealing the shots of my fellow photographers.

0:19:38 > 0:19:41One thing you can do, for example, is play around with angles.

0:19:41 > 0:19:45- So you can try moving down and taking it from upwards.- Ah!

0:19:46 > 0:19:49So you get a bit of a... Look at that.

0:19:49 > 0:19:50Instantly artier.

0:19:53 > 0:19:57And we're not just training our sights on inanimate objects.

0:19:57 > 0:20:01We're utilising one of the tips Jess gave us

0:20:01 > 0:20:04and waiting for somebody to cross our path.

0:20:04 > 0:20:06Go, go, go, go.

0:20:11 > 0:20:14Whilst the others continue to get snap happy,

0:20:14 > 0:20:17I caught up with one of the tour's founders.

0:20:17 > 0:20:21It seems quite an obvious question but why smartphones?

0:20:21 > 0:20:25It's taken photography from a point where it's not just to record

0:20:25 > 0:20:28memories but it's how we communicate today.

0:20:28 > 0:20:31And it's how we experience a lot of places.

0:20:31 > 0:20:35We need the littlest member to go over just so I know how...

0:20:35 > 0:20:39Our smartphone cameras were a great icebreaker, both when talking to the

0:20:39 > 0:20:41others on tour...

0:20:41 > 0:20:43You're good at this. You're like a professional.

0:20:44 > 0:20:48'..or even persuading the locals to pose for a photo.'

0:20:48 > 0:20:50Do you mind if I take a photo?

0:20:50 > 0:20:51Three, two, one.

0:20:55 > 0:20:56Are you in a band?

0:20:58 > 0:21:01- You should be.- Absolutely rugged band.

0:21:01 > 0:21:05It should be said that, at £45, the tour is not that cheap

0:21:05 > 0:21:10but you do get expert advice and a glass of wine at the end.

0:21:10 > 0:21:12Are we comparing now?

0:21:12 > 0:21:14Whilst I can't say I came away with much

0:21:14 > 0:21:18insight into the history of east London, I certainly had a lot

0:21:18 > 0:21:22of fun and took notice of things that would normally pass me by.

0:21:23 > 0:21:26If you're one for facts and figures

0:21:26 > 0:21:30and history behind things maybe it's not really the tour for you.

0:21:30 > 0:21:32But if you want to capture the moment and are an artiste,

0:21:32 > 0:21:35as such, then it's perfect.

0:21:45 > 0:21:49And you can visit an exhibition of all my work at London's Tate Gallery.

0:21:49 > 0:21:51OK, that is a bit of a lie

0:21:51 > 0:21:53but I'm sure my mum will want some of the prints.

0:21:53 > 0:21:56I'm afraid that's all the time we have for this week's Travel Show

0:21:56 > 0:21:58but join us next week for this.

0:22:02 > 0:22:05Christa travels to Bulgaria to join an archaeological dig that's

0:22:05 > 0:22:09uncovering some of the secrets of one of the oldest cities in Europe.

0:22:09 > 0:22:12It's a place where people used to make offerings to the gods

0:22:12 > 0:22:14so they'd come here

0:22:14 > 0:22:18and burn an offering to Hermes or Apollo or any of the ancient gods.

0:22:18 > 0:22:22Kind of crazy to discover this in the middle of a modern city.

0:22:26 > 0:22:29In the meantime, keep up to date with us and all of our travels by

0:22:29 > 0:22:30jumping onto our website

0:22:30 > 0:22:32or following one of our social media feeds.

0:22:32 > 0:22:35All the details should be on your screen now.

0:22:35 > 0:22:36But from me, Henry Golding,

0:22:36 > 0:22:39and the rest of the Travel Show team here in London, it's goodbye.