0:00:04 > 0:00:06This place was once described as the biggest
0:00:06 > 0:00:10and loveliest of all cities, so why is it that, today,
0:00:10 > 0:00:13so few people have ever heard of Plovdiv?
0:00:41 > 0:00:42On this week's programme,
0:00:42 > 0:00:47we uncover the past in one of the ancient world's best kept secrets.
0:00:47 > 0:00:5030,000 people would have packed into these stands to come
0:00:50 > 0:00:54and see chariot racing, and discus and javelin throwing competitions.
0:00:54 > 0:00:56We head to Iceland to go deep inside a volcano.
0:00:56 > 0:00:58- Can't see the bottom.- No.
0:00:58 > 0:00:59SHE LAUGHS
0:00:59 > 0:01:04There's news of a ground-breaking arts festival in Manhattan.
0:01:04 > 0:01:07And we'll take you on a 60-second stopover in Rome.
0:01:12 > 0:01:15Hello and welcome to The Travel Show,
0:01:15 > 0:01:18coming this week from Plovdiv in Bulgaria.
0:01:18 > 0:01:21Now, you might be forgiven for thinking it looks like Rome
0:01:21 > 0:01:25or Athens, but those cities are infants compared to this place,
0:01:25 > 0:01:28which has a pretty good claim on being the oldest city in Europe.
0:01:28 > 0:01:30The question is,
0:01:30 > 0:01:34can Plovdiv use this ancient history to bring new life to its streets?
0:01:40 > 0:01:43On ground level, you might be forgiven for thinking that
0:01:43 > 0:01:45Plovdiv is a fairly ordinary town.
0:01:48 > 0:01:51Underneath the streets, it's a different story.
0:01:53 > 0:01:57This place has been occupied by humans for over 8,000 years,
0:01:57 > 0:02:00with the remains of different eras stacked
0:02:00 > 0:02:02one on top of the other like pancakes.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07I've come to a dig that's turning up traces of those who lived here
0:02:07 > 0:02:09around 2,000 years ago.
0:02:14 > 0:02:16I'm standing in the middle of modern-day Plovdiv,
0:02:16 > 0:02:18but in fact, this place was also the heart
0:02:18 > 0:02:21of the ancient city of Philippopolis, which,
0:02:21 > 0:02:25at the height of the Roman Empire, had a population of over 100,000.
0:02:28 > 0:02:34Overseeing the excavations is head archaeologist, Dr Elena Kesyakova.
0:02:34 > 0:02:38- TRANSLATION: - We have to discover
0:02:38 > 0:02:42and uncover the shops that have been on the west side of the square
0:02:42 > 0:02:46as well as the main wall that was protecting the western side.
0:02:55 > 0:02:582,000 years ago, ancient Philippopolis sat right in the heart
0:02:58 > 0:03:01of a region called Thrace, and to the Thracians,
0:03:01 > 0:03:03the city was a pretty big deal.
0:03:07 > 0:03:09What Athens is for ancient Greece
0:03:09 > 0:03:14and what Rome is for the Italians, Philippopolis is for the Thracians.
0:03:18 > 0:03:21Oh, right, my turn. Let's go.
0:03:21 > 0:03:23So I brush gently,
0:03:25 > 0:03:27get rid of all these bits of loose dirt.
0:03:27 > 0:03:30- Am I doing a good job?- Da, da!
0:03:31 > 0:03:34We've just been cleaning up what is a fireplace,
0:03:34 > 0:03:36which would have been in the middle of a shop
0:03:36 > 0:03:38in the middle of the forum.
0:03:38 > 0:03:41But the interesting thing about this fireplace is that it wasn't just
0:03:41 > 0:03:43where you would toast your bread or make your dinner,
0:03:43 > 0:03:47it was where people would make offerings to their gods as well, and
0:03:47 > 0:03:51it's kind of the crazy to discover this in the middle of a modern city.
0:03:56 > 0:04:01Excavations have uncovered extensive evidence of Plovdiv's glorious past.
0:04:03 > 0:04:06This is Plovdiv's ancient Roman stadium,
0:04:06 > 0:04:09and up to 30,000 people would have packed into these stands to come
0:04:09 > 0:04:13and see chariot races and discus and javelin throwing competitions.
0:04:13 > 0:04:15Today, it still draws crowds,
0:04:15 > 0:04:18but they're mainly here to see the ruins themselves.
0:04:23 > 0:04:25Stefan Stoyanov is Plovdiv's deputy mayor,
0:04:25 > 0:04:30and believes sites like this may be a key to the city's future.
0:04:31 > 0:04:35These stones are around 2,000 years old.
0:04:35 > 0:04:39And it's very important to make an attraction
0:04:39 > 0:04:42here in this place
0:04:42 > 0:04:44and to popularise it.
0:04:44 > 0:04:46The plan seems to be working.
0:04:46 > 0:04:50Figures showed a 20% increase in the number of visitors to Plovdiv
0:04:50 > 0:04:53in the first six months of 2014.
0:04:53 > 0:04:57Archaeology is really important for the city,
0:04:57 > 0:05:00and especially for the tourism
0:05:00 > 0:05:05because we have unique attractions here,
0:05:05 > 0:05:08and to try to develop it every year.
0:05:11 > 0:05:15It's clear that these Roman sites can be a huge draw for the city.
0:05:15 > 0:05:18But not everyone is pleased with how they're being developed.
0:05:18 > 0:05:22Krassimira Luka believes that in their haste to reveal
0:05:22 > 0:05:25the popular Roman-era layers of the city, the digs are losing
0:05:25 > 0:05:29vital discoveries relating to later periods.
0:05:29 > 0:05:34It's this order given by the municipality to finish fast with the site.
0:05:34 > 0:05:39This is not the archaeological way to uncover the past.
0:05:39 > 0:05:43This must be done because, when you destroy it, it is lost for ever.
0:05:48 > 0:05:52But, at the forum dig, Elena strongly defends their practices.
0:05:56 > 0:05:59TRANSLATION: We've got a full recommendation
0:05:59 > 0:06:01for all uncovered walls
0:06:01 > 0:06:04with their profiles and cross sections.
0:06:04 > 0:06:06Nothing's going to get lost.
0:06:13 > 0:06:16And Plovdiv doesn't just want visitors to come
0:06:16 > 0:06:17and look at its history.
0:06:17 > 0:06:21They want the ancient sites to play an active part in city life.
0:06:23 > 0:06:27Crowds have gathered for the annual Plovdiv International Folk Festival
0:06:27 > 0:06:29at the restored Roman theatre.
0:06:31 > 0:06:35I find it brilliant to see this place being used to entertain
0:06:35 > 0:06:40the masses, just like it was intended to, nearly 2,000 years ago.
0:06:44 > 0:06:46If town planners have their way,
0:06:46 > 0:06:49even more ancient sites will soon be opened up for public use
0:06:49 > 0:06:51across the city, and they have their fingers crossed that,
0:06:51 > 0:06:56in the future, everyone will finally recognise the name of Plovdiv.
0:07:06 > 0:07:08If you're thinking of coming to Bulgaria,
0:07:08 > 0:07:10here's some information you might find useful.
0:07:15 > 0:07:18If you're planning to venture off the beaten track in Bulgaria, you
0:07:18 > 0:07:22might be surprised by the contrast between urban and rural areas.
0:07:22 > 0:07:23While the cities are comparable with
0:07:23 > 0:07:25many others you'll find across central Europe,
0:07:25 > 0:07:29development in the rural areas has happened at a far slower pace.
0:07:29 > 0:07:31Don't rule out a trip into the countryside,
0:07:31 > 0:07:34but do allow more time, and expect to have to rough it
0:07:34 > 0:07:37occasionally if you do decide to go rural.
0:07:41 > 0:07:43Ever found yourself making up sign language to communicate
0:07:43 > 0:07:46in a country where you don't know the language?
0:07:46 > 0:07:49Well, beware in Bulgaria, because it's one of just a few
0:07:49 > 0:07:54countries where a nod of the head means "no" and a shake means "yes".
0:07:54 > 0:07:57To confuse things further, locals keen to accommodate foreigners
0:07:57 > 0:08:01have been known to reverse this, so just remember that "da" means yes.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09Getting around in Bulgaria can be a little more difficult
0:08:09 > 0:08:11than in some other destinations.
0:08:11 > 0:08:14Road signs are mainly written using the Cyrillic alphabet
0:08:14 > 0:08:17and some roads are not very well maintained,
0:08:17 > 0:08:20so public transport is often the best option.
0:08:20 > 0:08:22Buses can also be a little difficult to navigate,
0:08:22 > 0:08:26so try train and tram travel to take you where you need to go.
0:08:26 > 0:08:29But do think about booking ahead for the trains.
0:08:35 > 0:08:40And, finally, if you love roses, then Bulgaria is the place for you.
0:08:40 > 0:08:43The country produces most of the world's rose oil,
0:08:43 > 0:08:47and you'll find roses celebrated everywhere here.
0:08:47 > 0:08:48If you're booking for June,
0:08:48 > 0:08:52look out for the Rose Festival in Kazanluk, and you might just
0:08:52 > 0:08:55find yourself picking roses at dawn with the locals.
0:08:58 > 0:09:02Time now to take a look at what else is happening in travel this week.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08We start this week in the UK, where there are new theories
0:09:08 > 0:09:09about one of its oldest
0:09:09 > 0:09:11and most mysterious attractions.
0:09:11 > 0:09:15A dry British summer and a faulty hosepipe have revealed
0:09:15 > 0:09:18markings that suggest Stonehenge was once a complete circle.
0:09:18 > 0:09:22For years, scientists have argued over whether it was supposed to be
0:09:22 > 0:09:25the horseshoe shape that stands there today.
0:09:26 > 0:09:29Over to Cuba, where there's a brand-new list of restricted items
0:09:29 > 0:09:31for people arriving onto the island.
0:09:31 > 0:09:35The Communist government there says it's to stop professional mules
0:09:35 > 0:09:38importing lots of high-end consumer goods from the States.
0:09:38 > 0:09:42In recent years, Havana airport's luggage belts have been heaving
0:09:42 > 0:09:46with huge amounts of bulky luxuries, thanks to looser customs rules.
0:09:46 > 0:09:48Before you go, make sure you check the new list,
0:09:48 > 0:09:51though if you're just carrying normal holiday luggage,
0:09:51 > 0:09:52you should be OK.
0:09:53 > 0:09:56And how lovely are enchiladas?
0:09:56 > 0:09:58What they need is some sort of specialist festival.
0:09:58 > 0:10:00Well, wouldn't you know it,
0:10:00 > 0:10:02Mexico City has had the same thought.
0:10:02 > 0:10:04People there have been busy celebrating
0:10:04 > 0:10:07the Enchilada Gastronomy Festival this week.
0:10:07 > 0:10:10As part of celebrations, they made one which broke records.
0:10:10 > 0:10:13At 85 metres long, it was filled with seafood,
0:10:13 > 0:10:16plantain and bucketloads of sauce.
0:10:20 > 0:10:22Coming up on the travel show:
0:10:23 > 0:10:25Michelle's here with her global guide
0:10:25 > 0:10:27to the best things to see and do around the world,
0:10:27 > 0:10:31and we head to Iceland to explore the depths of a volcano.
0:10:31 > 0:10:33You can see how the colours are changing here.
0:10:33 > 0:10:37You see more yellow and orange. And that's because of sulphur.
0:10:37 > 0:10:40The Travel Show - your essential guide, wherever you're heading.
0:11:45 > 0:11:49Hello, I'm Michelle Jana-Chan, your global guide with top tips
0:11:49 > 0:11:52on the world's best events in the coming month.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56From a star-studded Malawi to shining lights in Sweden.
0:11:58 > 0:12:03But first, it is the 20th anniversary of Heritage Open Day in the UK.
0:12:03 > 0:12:05From September 11th to 14th,
0:12:05 > 0:12:09you'll be able to look behind closed doors at thousands of heritage sites
0:12:09 > 0:12:14across the country, from castles and monuments to gardens and art venues.
0:12:14 > 0:12:18It's free of charge and forms part of European Heritage Day, which is
0:12:18 > 0:12:21held annually in September across the continent,
0:12:21 > 0:12:23highlighting local skills and traditions.
0:12:25 > 0:12:30In Italy on October 12, the Barcolana is Europe's biggest sailing event,
0:12:30 > 0:12:34with more than 2,000 boats jostling in the Gulf of Trieste.
0:12:34 > 0:12:38It's the only regatta in the world to set a single start line for
0:12:38 > 0:12:39so many yachts.
0:12:39 > 0:12:42All kinds of mono-hulled sailboats participate,
0:12:42 > 0:12:45with beginners pitted against professional racing teams.
0:12:45 > 0:12:48The event will cap a week of races, which includes competitions
0:12:48 > 0:12:51for teenagers as well as sailors with disabilities.
0:12:58 > 0:13:00If you prefer to stay on dry land,
0:13:00 > 0:13:04Australia's capital is celebrating Floriade for 30 days
0:13:04 > 0:13:08from September 14th, the country's greatest flower festival.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11The best viewing is in Canberra's parks and gardens, where
0:13:11 > 0:13:16visitors can follow the Floriade trail among galleries and monuments.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20From September 24, there's five nights of light shows,
0:13:20 > 0:13:21live music, comedy and DJs.
0:13:26 > 0:13:27Staying in Australia,
0:13:27 > 0:13:31the Torres Strait Cultural Festival begins on September 16.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33Held every two years on Thursday Island,
0:13:33 > 0:13:36there's a street parade and sporting events,
0:13:36 > 0:13:39but the greatest draw will be the cultural activities,
0:13:39 > 0:13:41as the indigenous Torres Strait Islanders are known for their
0:13:41 > 0:13:44artistic talents and handicraft skills.
0:13:49 > 0:13:53On September 20, the landmark Canadian Museum of Human Rights
0:13:53 > 0:13:56launches in Winnipeg, Manitoba.
0:13:56 > 0:13:58The opening weekend will include RightsFest,
0:13:58 > 0:14:01a two-day celebration with themed performances.
0:14:01 > 0:14:03There will also be a preview tour through the museum,
0:14:03 > 0:14:08offering an insight into its digital collection of oral histories,
0:14:08 > 0:14:10interactive exhibits and artwork.
0:14:14 > 0:14:18For a different kind of digital, in New York City in the US,
0:14:18 > 0:14:21the Dumbo Arts Festival begins on September 26.
0:14:21 > 0:14:26It's a weekend of indoor and outdoor art installations, digital art
0:14:26 > 0:14:30and large-scale projections, as well as a chance to watch dancers,
0:14:30 > 0:14:34poets and artists making murals on the streets.
0:14:34 > 0:14:36Outdoor projections will be on view from midnight
0:14:36 > 0:14:39and on all three nights, and it's free to the public.
0:14:39 > 0:14:43It's centred in Brooklyn and overlooking the Manhattan skyline.
0:14:46 > 0:14:50There's another reason to stay up late on the African continent.
0:14:50 > 0:14:52Returning to the shores of Lake Malawi,
0:14:52 > 0:14:56the Lake of Stars Festival begins on September 26.
0:14:56 > 0:14:58Three days of music and art.
0:14:58 > 0:15:02Last year it happened in the Malawian capital, Lilongwe,
0:15:02 > 0:15:06but the out-of-town, laid-back beat returns with local musicians
0:15:06 > 0:15:09mingling with international DJs and live acts.
0:15:13 > 0:15:17There will be a different kind of rhythm in Sweden outside Gothenberg
0:15:17 > 0:15:22where Lights In Alingsas begins on September 27th.
0:15:22 > 0:15:25It's a colourful, cutting-edge outdoor exhibition of lights
0:15:25 > 0:15:28with tens of thousands of spectators,
0:15:28 > 0:15:30which lasts over a month until November 3.
0:15:30 > 0:15:32This year, lighting designers will interpret
0:15:32 > 0:15:35the music of Norwegian composer, Edvard Grieg.
0:15:36 > 0:15:38That's my global guide this month.
0:15:38 > 0:15:41Let me know what's happening in the place where you live,
0:15:41 > 0:15:44or where you love. We are on Facebook, Twitter and e-mail.
0:15:44 > 0:15:46Until next time, happy travelling.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56Now, Iceland is a country that's very much been in the news recently
0:15:56 > 0:16:00because of renewed activity at the Bardarbunga volcano.
0:16:00 > 0:16:03If you were watching last week,
0:16:03 > 0:16:06you'll remember Jo Whalley meeting Icelanders whose lives were
0:16:06 > 0:16:08turned upside down when another volcano
0:16:08 > 0:16:11erupted on the Westman Islands 40 years ago.
0:16:13 > 0:16:16This week, she travels to a spot close to the capital, Reykjavik,
0:16:16 > 0:16:19to look deep inside a truly amazing geological wonder.
0:16:23 > 0:16:26Iceland is a volcanic hot spot.
0:16:28 > 0:16:32The whole country has been formed by millions of years of eruptions.
0:16:32 > 0:16:35And you only have to drive a short distance from the capital
0:16:35 > 0:16:37Reykjavik to see the impact.
0:16:38 > 0:16:42Thousands of years ago, a river of lava blasted through here,
0:16:42 > 0:16:45leaving these massive holes in the ground.
0:16:45 > 0:16:47And in every direction as far as the eye can see,
0:16:47 > 0:16:50are lumps of this stuff, where it solidified.
0:16:57 > 0:17:00You can find lava fields like this in other eruption sites
0:17:00 > 0:17:02around the world.
0:17:02 > 0:17:05But one of the peaks here is different to any other.
0:17:05 > 0:17:07It's the only place where you can actually
0:17:07 > 0:17:10see inside the heart of a volcano.
0:17:18 > 0:17:21- And that's the one that's erupted most recently?- Oh, yeah.
0:17:21 > 0:17:23The little one over there.
0:17:23 > 0:17:25Bjorn climbs up the side of this volcano every day
0:17:25 > 0:17:30and encourages sometimes-apprehensive tourists to walk the plank.
0:17:32 > 0:17:35So, I need to attach you here, and I'll go first.
0:17:37 > 0:17:40And you walk out with me and I'll attach you to another rope.
0:17:40 > 0:17:45The volcano is dormant and hasn't erupted for 4,000 years,
0:17:45 > 0:17:48and the experts here say it will be many thousands of years more
0:17:48 > 0:17:51before it erupts again.
0:17:51 > 0:17:53I certainly hope they're right.
0:17:57 > 0:17:59- I can't see the bottom.- No.
0:17:59 > 0:18:00SHE LAUGHS
0:18:00 > 0:18:02I'm not normally scared of heights
0:18:02 > 0:18:07but it is a little daunting to see a deep, dark pit stretching beneath us.
0:18:07 > 0:18:10We go a little bit slower here through the narrowing.
0:18:14 > 0:18:18The gantry squeezes past a narrow opening in the rock.
0:18:18 > 0:18:22Once we're through, I can see how huge the cavern is.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26At 120 metres deep, you could fit the Statue Of Liberty in here.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29The raindrops seem to fall in slow motion.
0:18:31 > 0:18:34- And this is the lava? - Yes, this is the lava.
0:18:34 > 0:18:36This here was magma, going up and down.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43The walls are splashed with colour where molten rock clung
0:18:43 > 0:18:47to the surface during the last hours of the eruption.
0:18:47 > 0:18:49You can see how the colours are changing here.
0:18:49 > 0:18:53You can see more yellow and orange. That's because of the sulphur.
0:18:54 > 0:18:57So, why can we be in here? Where did all the magma go?
0:18:57 > 0:18:59Kind of a mystery, but, for some reason,
0:18:59 > 0:19:01all the lava and all the magma drained out.
0:19:01 > 0:19:05And, under normal circumstances this would collapse, but it didn't.
0:19:05 > 0:19:08Probably because of the shape of it, or the structure.
0:19:08 > 0:19:11We have strong layers of rocks here, on the way down.
0:19:11 > 0:19:14So we're getting to the bottom here.
0:19:14 > 0:19:19The logistics of getting down here mean a ticket isn't cheap.
0:19:20 > 0:19:25A tour costs just under £200, and you can only get here
0:19:25 > 0:19:28from May until September. The rest of the year, it's too snowy.
0:19:32 > 0:19:35It's not just adventure travellers who've been coming here.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39People have been asking to hire the volcano out for private events.
0:19:46 > 0:19:48What's the weirdest request you've had?
0:19:48 > 0:19:51We've had all kinds of weird requests.
0:19:51 > 0:19:54We've had several requests about bungee jumping.
0:19:54 > 0:19:56- Bungee jumping in here?- Yes.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59Do they have any idea of the rocks at the bottom of here?
0:19:59 > 0:20:04No, and also, the top part of the crater is not straight,
0:20:04 > 0:20:09it's like an S curve, so it could be quite risky to find a spot
0:20:09 > 0:20:13that you could drop in a straight line, so we haven't allowed that.
0:20:13 > 0:20:15It could be messy for us to clean everything up!
0:20:17 > 0:20:19This place is absolutely incredible,
0:20:19 > 0:20:21and if you've got enough cash,
0:20:21 > 0:20:22you could have it all to yourself.
0:20:22 > 0:20:25They've had requests from people who want to get married down here.
0:20:25 > 0:20:26They said no to that,
0:20:26 > 0:20:29but there are plans for it to become a concert venue.
0:20:29 > 0:20:32THEY SING HAUNTING HARMONY
0:20:51 > 0:20:55This local choir agreed to a Travel Show exclusive,
0:20:55 > 0:20:58to be the first group to perform in a volcano, ever.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07It's an eerily beautiful sound.
0:21:26 > 0:21:27Well, that's it for this week.
0:21:27 > 0:21:30And here's what's coming up on next week's programme.
0:21:38 > 0:21:39I'll be heading to Denmark,
0:21:39 > 0:21:42which is apparently the happiest country in the world.
0:21:42 > 0:21:44It's really good!
0:21:44 > 0:21:47They are very good at just appreciating what they have.
0:21:47 > 0:21:51Not worrying about the big stuff, but you open a bottle of red wine,
0:21:51 > 0:21:54you light some candles, you'll have a happy Dane.
0:21:58 > 0:22:01So, do join us then if you can, and in the meantime, don't forget,
0:22:01 > 0:22:03you can keep up with us while we're out on the road
0:22:03 > 0:22:05by signing up to our social media feeds,
0:22:05 > 0:22:07details of which are on the screen now.
0:22:07 > 0:22:09Or, you can raid our travel show archive by logging on to
0:22:09 > 0:22:12bbc.co.uk/travelshow
0:22:12 > 0:22:14But, for now, from me, Christa Larwood,
0:22:14 > 0:22:18and the rest of The Travel Show team here in Plovdiv, it's goodbye.