0:00:02 > 0:00:03Sea views, picture-postcard towns
0:00:03 > 0:00:06and landscapes that feed the imagination.
0:00:06 > 0:00:09Dylan Thomas knew exactly what was needed for a great walk.
0:00:09 > 0:00:13So, let's follow in his footsteps and go walking.
0:00:14 > 0:00:17That's it for today, I'm off!
0:00:35 > 0:00:39Dylan chose some wonderful Welsh locations to call home,
0:00:39 > 0:00:42so this week, I'm taking in two coastal towns
0:00:42 > 0:00:46with breathtaking views rich in history and local charm.
0:00:46 > 0:00:51And both claim to be the inspiration for his classic, Under Milk Wood.
0:00:51 > 0:00:53So, let battle commence.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58Later, I'll be catching a boat to Laugharne to see the sights
0:00:58 > 0:01:02dearest to Dylan and the source of some of his greatest inspiration.
0:01:02 > 0:01:06But first, I'm at the seaside in New Quay to find out
0:01:06 > 0:01:11why Dylan's time here resulted in a Hollywood blockbuster.
0:01:11 > 0:01:14For many visitors, New Quay is better known as a holiday
0:01:14 > 0:01:17destination than as somewhere Dylan Thomas lived.
0:01:17 > 0:01:21So I'm hitting the town's Dylan Thomas Trail to find out
0:01:21 > 0:01:25why his short time here played such a big part in his life.
0:01:25 > 0:01:29And hopefully, we'll be back in time for some pysgod a sglodion,
0:01:29 > 0:01:31fish and chips!
0:01:33 > 0:01:36My guide here is book-seller and author Jeff Townes.
0:01:36 > 0:01:38He's also known as the Dylan Thomas guy,
0:01:38 > 0:01:43having spent four decades digging up everything he could on Dylan.
0:01:43 > 0:01:45These days, he runs a mobile book shop,
0:01:45 > 0:01:49but he's taken a day off to show me Dylan's New Quay.
0:01:51 > 0:01:53- Hello, Jeff.- Hello, Derek. Good to see you.
0:01:53 > 0:01:55- Great to meet you. - Welcome to New Quay.
0:01:55 > 0:01:59This is one of the places that is supposed to be where
0:01:59 > 0:02:03Dylan Thomas modelled the town of Llareggub in Under Milk Wood.
0:02:03 > 0:02:05But there are other places that claim it.
0:02:05 > 0:02:09When I stand here and look at that and this harbour,
0:02:09 > 0:02:11this is what I imagine Llareggub to look like.
0:02:11 > 0:02:15- Shall we go and have a closer look? - Yeah. Come on. Let's get going.
0:02:19 > 0:02:23New Quay is a popular seaside town on the Ceredigion coast.
0:02:23 > 0:02:24Starting at the stone pier,
0:02:24 > 0:02:28we walk up through town and down to the wild beach below.
0:02:28 > 0:02:32It's then a beach walk all the way to Llanina Point,
0:02:32 > 0:02:35before heading inland to visit Dylan's former home.
0:02:35 > 0:02:38Our last leg takes us around the top of New Quay,
0:02:38 > 0:02:42ending with a spectacular sea-cliff walk all the way back to town.
0:02:42 > 0:02:45A total of just under six miles.
0:02:50 > 0:02:52In summer, it will be packed here,
0:02:52 > 0:02:56but the beach in winter has its own very special charm.
0:02:56 > 0:03:01And it was in 1944, during one of the coldest winters on record, that
0:03:01 > 0:03:05Dylan fled here from London with his wife, Caitlin, and their children.
0:03:06 > 0:03:09So, why did Dylan and his family move to New Quay?
0:03:09 > 0:03:12I think it was the war that did it.
0:03:12 > 0:03:15The Blitz was escalating in London
0:03:15 > 0:03:17and he just thought he had to get away.
0:03:17 > 0:03:21A friend from Swansea, Vera Phillips, she lived over there
0:03:21 > 0:03:24and she told him that the house next door was empty.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26So they came down here.
0:03:31 > 0:03:33We're just coming up to The Black Lion,
0:03:33 > 0:03:36which is Dylan Thomas' favourite pub in town.
0:03:36 > 0:03:40He said it waited for Saturday night like a jolly girl waits for sailors.
0:03:40 > 0:03:44And it was recently used as a focal point
0:03:44 > 0:03:46for a big Hollywood movie. You might have seen it.
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- The Edge Of Love, starring Matthew Rhys.- That's the one.
0:03:49 > 0:03:52With Sienna Miller and Keira Knightley.
0:03:52 > 0:03:55And one of the stars of the film is in here waiting to talk to us.
0:03:55 > 0:04:00- It might be Matthew Rhys having a pint.- It could be Sienna Miller.
0:04:00 > 0:04:02'Not surprisingly, Sienna was busy,
0:04:02 > 0:04:06'so I'm meeting movie star for a day Barbara Cassini.'
0:04:06 > 0:04:08Hello, Barbara.
0:04:08 > 0:04:11- Hello.- Lovely to meet you.- And you.
0:04:11 > 0:04:13So, tell me, what was it like starring in the film,
0:04:13 > 0:04:17Edge Of Love, when Hollywood came to New Quay?
0:04:17 > 0:04:22It was memorable. There's never been a day quite like it.
0:04:22 > 0:04:25- The whole village was alive. - And what part did you play?
0:04:25 > 0:04:29Well, I was a gossip, with another lady. I was a gossip.
0:04:29 > 0:04:33- This is you as a gossip here? - Yes. I hope you don't recognise me.
0:04:33 > 0:04:36- You're the one on the left. - Thank you!
0:04:36 > 0:04:39What was it like meeting the big celebrities?
0:04:39 > 0:04:44Oh, I thought Matthew Rhys was a very charming fellow. Small, but perfect.
0:04:44 > 0:04:46Dylan said he looked like an unmade bed.
0:04:46 > 0:04:49He looks like he's stepped off Savile Row, doesn't he?
0:04:49 > 0:04:53- But he's a handsome man. - He's a very nice-looking fellow.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56- Did you get his number?- No.
0:04:56 > 0:04:59I adored him from afar.
0:04:59 > 0:05:01Thank you very much for sharing your stories with us.
0:05:01 > 0:05:04It's been very enjoyable. It's been lovely.
0:05:05 > 0:05:07'Right, that's enough Hollywood gossip.
0:05:07 > 0:05:09'Time to carry on with the walk.'
0:05:13 > 0:05:15So, it looks like we're leaving the town
0:05:15 > 0:05:17and heading down onto the beach.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20- Should have brought my trunks. - Not today, boy.
0:05:20 > 0:05:22LAUGHTER
0:05:22 > 0:05:24- It's a bit chilly.- It would be.
0:05:24 > 0:05:29If I say to you, "Derek, kiss me in Goosegog Lane,"
0:05:29 > 0:05:32I don't mean anything other than I'm quoting Under Milk Wood.
0:05:32 > 0:05:34Glad to hear it.
0:05:34 > 0:05:36Because there's a lovely exchange between children.
0:05:36 > 0:05:40"Kiss me in Goosegog Lane. What's your name? Billy."
0:05:44 > 0:05:47- Oh, this is great, Jeff! - Look at this!
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- What an amazing beach. - It's pretty rugged, isn't it?
0:05:50 > 0:05:53And you can see right across Cardigan Bay,
0:05:53 > 0:05:55towards the Llyn Peninsula.
0:05:56 > 0:05:59'At high tide, Traethgwyn, that's White Beach,
0:05:59 > 0:06:01'can be dangerous to cross,
0:06:01 > 0:06:05'so make sure you check it's safe before setting off.'
0:06:05 > 0:06:08So, what made you become interested in Dylan and his life?
0:06:08 > 0:06:11It was the other Dylan. The first LP I ever bought was Bob Dylan's.
0:06:12 > 0:06:15He'd actually been born Robert Zimmerman.
0:06:15 > 0:06:17And he changed his name,
0:06:17 > 0:06:21he said, as a homage to a Welsh poet called Dylan Thomas.
0:06:21 > 0:06:22I never knew that.
0:06:22 > 0:06:25I was very lucky because I had a Welsh mum
0:06:25 > 0:06:26who knew a bit about poetry.
0:06:26 > 0:06:28I was about 14 at the time.
0:06:28 > 0:06:33And she told me about him and I started to read all of Dylan Thomas.
0:06:33 > 0:06:36And when I washed up in Swansea,
0:06:36 > 0:06:40and my wife and I opened a book shop...
0:06:40 > 0:06:43it seemed to be obvious. Dylan's Bookstore.
0:06:43 > 0:06:45- He's been part of your life since you were young.- Yeah.
0:06:45 > 0:06:48It wasn't a conscious decision, but it just happened that way.
0:06:56 > 0:06:59'Our beach walk ends at Llanina Point,
0:06:59 > 0:07:01'where the River Llethi meets the sea.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09'Next stop is a private house which was owned by the wealthy
0:07:09 > 0:07:11'Sir Howard de Walden, who was a fan of Dylan's
0:07:11 > 0:07:15'and offered him a private place to write.'
0:07:15 > 0:07:18Dylan Thomas lived just a stone's throw away
0:07:18 > 0:07:20in this tiny little shack.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23And he said it was like fleas jumping in a box.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26His kids were all over him. And he needed somewhere to write.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29'And De Walden had just the place -
0:07:29 > 0:07:32'his apple house, which was like a little studio back then.'
0:07:32 > 0:07:35What happened here is a second flowering.
0:07:35 > 0:07:38He'd had a period where he wasn't producing poems
0:07:38 > 0:07:40because he was too busy doing other things,
0:07:40 > 0:07:42but when he got here, he found the sort of peace
0:07:42 > 0:07:47and quiet to write half a dozen of his greatest poems.
0:07:47 > 0:07:50'As a thank-you for having his own writer's retreat,
0:07:50 > 0:07:54'Dylan repaid his patron in the only way he could, with a signed book.'
0:07:55 > 0:08:00"To Lord Howard de Walden, from Dylan Thomas. November, 1944."
0:08:00 > 0:08:02- So, this is an original copy?- Yeah.
0:08:02 > 0:08:04It's very special.
0:08:04 > 0:08:06'This spot isn't open to the public,
0:08:06 > 0:08:09'but we've had special permission to come in.
0:08:09 > 0:08:10'And at the bottom of the garden,
0:08:10 > 0:08:14'there's a possible clue for the Under Milk Wood debate.'
0:08:16 > 0:08:19This is Dylan's view...of Llareggub.
0:08:19 > 0:08:22When you show it to people from New Quay, they'll say,
0:08:22 > 0:08:25"Oh, look, there's our terraces, there's our hill."
0:08:25 > 0:08:28When you show it to the people at Laugharne, they say, "That's our town hall."
0:08:28 > 0:08:32- It's a combination of the both, perhaps.- It's from his imagination.
0:08:33 > 0:08:36'Whatever you think, it's a gorgeous view.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38'No wonder it sparked Dylan's imagination.'
0:08:42 > 0:08:46So, here we are, Derek, Dylan's home while he was in New Quay.
0:08:48 > 0:08:50It didn't look anything like this when he came here.
0:08:50 > 0:08:54It was a wood and asbestos shack with no facilities,
0:08:54 > 0:08:56an outside toilet.
0:08:56 > 0:09:00It was while they were here that the Majoda incident occurred.
0:09:00 > 0:09:03'The Majoda incident involved Dylan's neighbours,
0:09:03 > 0:09:05'Vera and Captain William Killick.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08'Killick had just returned to New Quay after a year
0:09:08 > 0:09:11'fighting behind enemy lines in Greece.'
0:09:11 > 0:09:13He came back and he was suffering, I think,
0:09:13 > 0:09:16from what we would now call post-traumatic stress syndrome.
0:09:16 > 0:09:19And after an altercation down in the town,
0:09:19 > 0:09:23he thought Dylan and Caitlin and Vera were having too much fun
0:09:23 > 0:09:26when he was away putting his life on the line.
0:09:26 > 0:09:29He decided to give them a taste of war.
0:09:29 > 0:09:31'And the events of this real-life drama
0:09:31 > 0:09:34'were made into the movie, The Edge of Love.'
0:09:38 > 0:09:40No! No! No! No!
0:09:42 > 0:09:44Stop, please! Please, stop!
0:09:44 > 0:09:45BABY WAILS
0:09:45 > 0:09:48The incident ended, luckily, with nobody injured.
0:09:48 > 0:09:51- It must have been terrifying. - Well, it really scared him.
0:09:51 > 0:09:55He said afterwards, "I go to bed under the bed now, not on it."
0:09:55 > 0:09:57Like all films,
0:09:57 > 0:10:02they altered the ending just slightly to give them their film.
0:10:02 > 0:10:06You have to watch it and you have to read about the account
0:10:06 > 0:10:07and make your own mind up.
0:10:08 > 0:10:10'Killick was acquitted of attempted murder,
0:10:10 > 0:10:14'but Dylan and his family left New Quay soon after.
0:10:17 > 0:10:19'Next, we head down towards the sea
0:10:19 > 0:10:24'through one of the town's holiday parks and find the Jubilee Trail,
0:10:24 > 0:10:27'a lovely woodland walk, which is just magical.'
0:10:30 > 0:10:32Now, look at that. Go for a surf.
0:10:36 > 0:10:39'Fishing and seafaring have always been the lifeblood of this village.
0:10:39 > 0:10:41'It's in the veins.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44'Climbing through St Llwchaearn's Church,
0:10:44 > 0:10:46'we pass the graves of local mariners.
0:10:46 > 0:10:50'Some were lost at sea, but have graves here in their memories.'
0:10:53 > 0:10:58See this one. John Williams, master mariner. Died at Malta.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01That's the whole story of New Quay.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04'No sign of Captain Cat from Under Milk Wood here, though.'
0:11:06 > 0:11:08A bit of a sunken lane.
0:11:08 > 0:11:09This is where the fun starts.
0:11:09 > 0:11:11Squidgy.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14The last thing that came up here had four legs, not two. Oh!
0:11:14 > 0:11:16LAUGHTER
0:11:18 > 0:11:21'And soon we're heading for Bird's Rock.
0:11:21 > 0:11:22'In spring and early summer,
0:11:22 > 0:11:26'this area is an important breeding ground for sea birds.
0:11:26 > 0:11:28'And you might even spot the odd seal.'
0:11:30 > 0:11:33So, that's the old coastguard station
0:11:33 > 0:11:36that's used mainly now by bird-watchers.
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- And dolphin watch, too. - Dolphins indeed.
0:11:49 > 0:11:51'We're on a section of the Wales Coast Path,
0:11:51 > 0:11:54'and it's absolutely stunning.
0:11:57 > 0:11:59'We've now come almost full circle.
0:11:59 > 0:12:02'Looking over New Quay from the other side.'
0:12:04 > 0:12:08We're probably exactly in a spot where Dylan Thomas stood.
0:12:08 > 0:12:13And he wrote about it and it got published in this book.
0:12:13 > 0:12:15And in it is Quite Early One Morning,
0:12:15 > 0:12:20which is just a description of him waking up one morning
0:12:20 > 0:12:23and wandering through New Quay as the people begin to wake up.
0:12:23 > 0:12:26"I walked on to the cliff-top path again.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29"The town behind and below waking up now so very slowly.
0:12:29 > 0:12:32"I stopped and turned and looked.
0:12:32 > 0:12:33"Smoke from one chimney."
0:12:33 > 0:12:36- It's very descriptive, isn't it? - And it's exactly...
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- All there.- I know. We couldn't be closer.
0:12:40 > 0:12:43'Dylan went on to use Quite Early One Morning
0:12:43 > 0:12:45'as a template for Under Milk Wood,
0:12:45 > 0:12:48'for which he became known around the world.'
0:12:48 > 0:12:51Why don't you keep that as a memento?
0:12:51 > 0:12:55- Thanks very much. I'll treasure this.- Excellent.
0:12:55 > 0:12:58Well, what a walk we've had.
0:12:58 > 0:13:00Dylan's time here may have been brief,
0:13:00 > 0:13:01but it was certainly dramatic,
0:13:01 > 0:13:04all set in a beautiful town next to the sea
0:13:04 > 0:13:08with all the right ingredients for a wonderful walk.
0:13:08 > 0:13:13Now it's all downhill, back to town for some fish and chips on the pier.
0:13:13 > 0:13:15What could be better?
0:13:17 > 0:13:20And if you fancy trying this or another one of our walks,
0:13:20 > 0:13:25go to our website at bbc.co.uk/weathermanwalking.
0:13:25 > 0:13:27It's got everything you need,
0:13:27 > 0:13:31from detailed route information to walking maps you can print off.
0:13:31 > 0:13:35There are also some photos we took along the way.
0:13:35 > 0:13:38Next, I'm travelling south to Laugharne in Carmarthenshire
0:13:38 > 0:13:40for my final Dylan Thomas walk.
0:13:43 > 0:13:47And with stunning views over the Taf Estuary, what better way
0:13:47 > 0:13:53to begin my walk than arriving just like Dylan did in 1934?
0:13:54 > 0:13:56Dylan first came to Laugharne by boat
0:13:56 > 0:13:59and this encounter led him to describe it as
0:13:59 > 0:14:01the strangest town in Wales.
0:14:01 > 0:14:05I'm off to explore why he kept coming back to this quirky Welsh town
0:14:05 > 0:14:09and how this beautiful setting captured both his heart
0:14:09 > 0:14:12and his imagination.
0:14:18 > 0:14:20'From the day of his very first visit here,
0:14:20 > 0:14:23'Dylan was captivated by Laugharne,
0:14:23 > 0:14:28'so it's no surprise it was here he eventually settled with his family.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34'I'm starting the walk at the Boathouse,
0:14:34 > 0:14:39'where I'm meeting my very special guide for the day, Hannah Ellis.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42'Hannah is Dylan Thomas's granddaughter.
0:14:42 > 0:14:45'Her late mum, Aeronwy, spent her early childhood years
0:14:45 > 0:14:49'at the Boathouse with Dylan, Caitlin and her two brothers.
0:14:49 > 0:14:52'Even though Hannah grew up in London,
0:14:52 > 0:14:54'Aeronwy would often bring her back to Wales.'
0:15:02 > 0:15:04Thanks, Denzil.
0:15:06 > 0:15:10- Hi, Hannah. Nice to meet you. - Hi, Derek.- Just look at that view.
0:15:10 > 0:15:13It must have been heaven growing up here as a child.
0:15:13 > 0:15:14Oh, it must have been.
0:15:14 > 0:15:16If you come and look over here, the children would have
0:15:16 > 0:15:20played on the balconies, swum in the estuary.
0:15:20 > 0:15:23My grandmother must have sunbathed on the rocks
0:15:23 > 0:15:27and my grandfather must have been incredibly inspired by these views.
0:15:27 > 0:15:29'Well, there'll be plenty more of those,
0:15:29 > 0:15:33'so time to set off and get walking.
0:15:33 > 0:15:36'Laugharne overlooks the Taf Estuary.
0:15:36 > 0:15:38'We start off at the Boathouse
0:15:38 > 0:15:41'and the first loop of our figure of eight
0:15:41 > 0:15:42'takes us past Laugharne Castle.
0:15:42 > 0:15:45'We then walk up the side of the estuary
0:15:45 > 0:15:47'before dropping down to the marshes,
0:15:47 > 0:15:52'around Sir John's Hill, up through Broadway and back into town.
0:15:55 > 0:15:58'Our second loop takes us through St Martin's Wood,
0:15:58 > 0:16:00'glimpsing estuary views along the way,
0:16:00 > 0:16:03'before we reach Dylan's final resting place.
0:16:03 > 0:16:07'We then head back into town for a pint, Dylan style.
0:16:18 > 0:16:22'Dylan fans flock to Laugharne, so it's a real treat for me
0:16:22 > 0:16:26'to be shown around by someone whose heard all the stories first-hand.
0:16:26 > 0:16:29'Our first stop is the shed
0:16:29 > 0:16:32'where Dylan wrote some of his most famous work.'
0:16:33 > 0:16:36Just over here is my grandfather's writing shed.
0:16:36 > 0:16:38And this is where he used to go to work,
0:16:38 > 0:16:42but also to escape from the chaos and commotion of the Boathouse.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45He had a lot of family living around here, didn't he?
0:16:45 > 0:16:48And Caitlin was known for her socialising.
0:16:48 > 0:16:51I suppose he needed a bit of peace and quiet to get away from it all.
0:16:51 > 0:16:54I think he would've liked some peace and quiet,
0:16:54 > 0:16:57but my mum, who was about six at the time,
0:16:57 > 0:16:59she would go back and forth on her bike
0:16:59 > 0:17:02and she would make as much noise as possible.
0:17:02 > 0:17:04And she was always pleased when her father came out red-faced,
0:17:04 > 0:17:07shaking his fist and asking her to be quiet.
0:17:09 > 0:17:11- After you.- Fantastic.
0:17:11 > 0:17:14This is really special, being in here, isn't it?
0:17:14 > 0:17:17And that's where he sat and did all his writing.
0:17:17 > 0:17:20'Inside, it looks as if Dylan has just popped out.
0:17:20 > 0:17:23'It's normally off-limits to the public,
0:17:23 > 0:17:26'so it's a delight to come in and look around.'
0:17:26 > 0:17:29This is actually only my second time in the Writing Shed.
0:17:29 > 0:17:34But you can really get a sense of the way he worked and really understand
0:17:34 > 0:17:37just how the views inspired some of his most famous work.
0:17:44 > 0:17:48'We now drop down to water level and walk towards the Grist,
0:17:48 > 0:17:51'which used to be the site of an old corn mill.'
0:17:54 > 0:17:58This is such an amazing place, especially on a day like this.
0:17:58 > 0:18:01I quite agree. There's just nowhere quite like it.
0:18:05 > 0:18:10- On the grass there, my mum used to have picnics with her mum.- By here?
0:18:10 > 0:18:14Yeah. Any chance of sun, really, my grandmother was out here sunbathing.
0:18:14 > 0:18:16And they actually went into the sea for a little paddle
0:18:16 > 0:18:19and my grandmother actually went skinny-dipping,
0:18:19 > 0:18:20much to the despair of my mum.
0:18:20 > 0:18:23- I don't think we'll be doing that today.- I hope not!
0:18:27 > 0:18:30'Soon we pass Laugharne Castle, described by Dylan as
0:18:30 > 0:18:31"brown as owls."'
0:18:31 > 0:18:34'It dates back to the 12th century
0:18:34 > 0:18:38'and is one of a string of castles along the South Wales coast.
0:18:41 > 0:18:45'Leaving the town, we head off to join the Dylan Thomas Birthday Walk,
0:18:45 > 0:18:48'which celebrates a poem he wrote on his 30th birthday.'
0:18:50 > 0:18:53My grandparents really loved walking.
0:18:53 > 0:18:54There's this real image of them
0:18:54 > 0:18:59just spending all their time in the pub, but they loved being outdoors.
0:18:59 > 0:19:01And if you read my grandfather's work,
0:19:01 > 0:19:05you'll just see that he's always describing the landscapes he saw.
0:19:05 > 0:19:09In fact, he wrote about this walk we're on now, didn't he?
0:19:09 > 0:19:11Yes, in Poem In October.
0:19:15 > 0:19:18'In Poem In October, Dylan writes about spending time
0:19:18 > 0:19:20'marvelling at the wildlife,
0:19:20 > 0:19:23'the wonderful views and even the weather.'
0:19:25 > 0:19:27And these are the views he saw.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30- Aren't they stunning? - Amazing. Beautiful.
0:19:30 > 0:19:34We're here at the right time of year because it is October
0:19:34 > 0:19:35and, as he says in his poem,
0:19:35 > 0:19:39"The sun of October summery on the hill's shoulder."
0:19:39 > 0:19:45My grandfather must have walked in so many different types of weather.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47I'd just love it if you could have a go
0:19:47 > 0:19:49at using some of those words in your weather forecast.
0:19:49 > 0:19:51Well, I'll give it a go.
0:19:51 > 0:19:57The outlook for tomorrow is pale rain wringing and wind blow cold.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00- Oh, beautiful! Well done.- Come on.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04'Well, I reckon that had a pretty good ring to it, don't you?'
0:20:13 > 0:20:17'Below us are the strange formations of the mud flats and salt marshes
0:20:17 > 0:20:20'where cockle picking was once a booming industry.'
0:20:20 > 0:20:24I think it was just down here that my mum went with her mum
0:20:24 > 0:20:27and the local women to go and collect cockles.
0:20:27 > 0:20:31I know Mum just loved scrambling around in all the mud down there.
0:20:31 > 0:20:35And then she'd go home and soak all the cockles in water overnight.
0:20:35 > 0:20:37It must've looked really different back then.
0:20:37 > 0:20:39A hive of activity down there
0:20:39 > 0:20:41and your mum right in the middle of it all.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43In my grandfather's play, Under Milk Wood,
0:20:43 > 0:20:46he described the webbed-foot cockle women.
0:20:46 > 0:20:48Possibly he could've been talking about the women down there.
0:20:48 > 0:20:50- He probably was.- Who knows?!
0:20:54 > 0:20:58'Well, it does look pretty muddy down there, so I'm very relieved
0:20:58 > 0:21:02'Hannah doesn't fancy having cockles for supper, like Dylan used to.'
0:21:08 > 0:21:10We've come now to the Laugharne Marshes.
0:21:10 > 0:21:13And much of this land here was reclaimed in the Middle Ages.
0:21:13 > 0:21:16You've got the lovely lush green farmland over there
0:21:16 > 0:21:21and over that side, you've got the much lighter salty marshland.
0:21:21 > 0:21:24Yes, I can just make out the retaining sea wall.
0:21:24 > 0:21:27'The wall has an important job to do,
0:21:27 > 0:21:30'protecting farmland and animals from the salty water.'
0:21:35 > 0:21:38You mentioned the word marshes, but not these midges.
0:21:38 > 0:21:40They've got big teeth, haven't they?
0:21:40 > 0:21:44They are beginning to surround us a bit. Come on, we'd best get going.
0:21:44 > 0:21:46Ouch!
0:21:46 > 0:21:48'These salt marshes are the perfect habitat for midges,
0:21:48 > 0:21:52'so it's no surprise they're everywhere.'
0:21:59 > 0:22:02- You see that small gap between the trees up there?- Yeah.
0:22:02 > 0:22:06We're heading that way. But take care because it's a bit of a steep climb.
0:22:06 > 0:22:08I'm sure I can cope with it.
0:22:12 > 0:22:16'Now, what do they say about pride coming before a fall?'
0:22:17 > 0:22:19Argh!
0:22:19 > 0:22:22'Weatherman down. I blame the boots.
0:22:23 > 0:22:26'With a rather bruised ego and sore knees,
0:22:26 > 0:22:29'I swallow my pride and carry on.'
0:22:41 > 0:22:44I tell you what, Hannah, I love this time of year,
0:22:44 > 0:22:47walking through the leaves and hearing that scrunching sound.
0:22:47 > 0:22:49Oh, it's beautiful.
0:22:56 > 0:22:59I see what you mean by steep and narrow, Hannah.
0:23:01 > 0:23:04Certainly is. It keeps you fit, though.
0:23:04 > 0:23:06Fortunately, someone's been kind enough
0:23:06 > 0:23:08to put some wooden steps in for us.
0:23:08 > 0:23:11'As I found out, it can get very slippery here,
0:23:11 > 0:23:14'so make sure you're wearing a sturdy pair of shoes.'
0:23:14 > 0:23:16Slightly out of breath.
0:23:17 > 0:23:19Just a bit.
0:23:22 > 0:23:24'Finally, we reach the top,
0:23:24 > 0:23:26'drop down towards Broadway
0:23:26 > 0:23:30'and turn off by the caravan park to take the scenic route into town.'
0:23:32 > 0:23:35You can smell autumn in the air, as well.
0:23:42 > 0:23:45We're halfway through. How are you feeling, Derek?
0:23:45 > 0:23:47I'm really enjoying it, Hannah.
0:23:47 > 0:23:49There's so much to see and talk about.
0:23:49 > 0:23:52Mind you, as Dylan wrote, the weather's turned around.
0:23:52 > 0:23:56- There could be a few showers later on.- Let's hope not.
0:24:01 > 0:24:04'Whatever Jeff said about New Quay, I can feel a strong sense
0:24:04 > 0:24:08'of Dylan's fictional town, Llareggub, here in Laugharne.'
0:24:10 > 0:24:12Now, it's a bit of a hot potato.
0:24:12 > 0:24:16Many people think Laugharne was the inspiration behind Under Milk Wood,
0:24:16 > 0:24:20but I've just been to New Quay and they think the same there.
0:24:20 > 0:24:21So, what do you think?
0:24:21 > 0:24:24It's the mystery of where Llareggub is that makes it exciting.
0:24:24 > 0:24:27But my grandfather travelled widely,
0:24:27 > 0:24:30so I think he was probably inspired by many different places.
0:24:30 > 0:24:33I do see some strong elements of Laugharne and New Quay.
0:24:33 > 0:24:35So, he'd like to keep people guessing.
0:24:35 > 0:24:37- All part of the fun, really. - Absolutely.
0:24:43 > 0:24:45'Our next stop is Seaview.
0:24:45 > 0:24:47'This surprisingly grand house
0:24:47 > 0:24:50'was one of Dylan and Caitlin's first homes in Laugharne.
0:24:50 > 0:24:52'They were allowed to live here by a wealthy patron
0:24:52 > 0:24:56'when they were newly married and expecting their first baby.
0:24:58 > 0:25:02'Our second loop starts with a walk through the sunken lanes
0:25:02 > 0:25:04'of St Martin's Wood, or should I say bog?'
0:25:04 > 0:25:08Oh, blimey! It's a bit muddy up here, Hannah.
0:25:08 > 0:25:11It certainly is. It's disgusting!
0:25:11 > 0:25:13And smelly.
0:25:13 > 0:25:16Oh! I should've brought my wellies.
0:25:21 > 0:25:25- The sooner we get through here, the better.- Yeah. Oh! Ugh-a-fi!
0:25:30 > 0:25:32'These extraordinary sunken lanes
0:25:32 > 0:25:34'have been worn down by centuries of use.
0:25:34 > 0:25:36'They would've been the main routes for people
0:25:36 > 0:25:39'and their animals to travel between villages
0:25:39 > 0:25:42'and, as a result, the lane floors have eroded.'
0:25:49 > 0:25:53- Well, it's nice to be out in the open air again.- Not for long, Derek.
0:25:56 > 0:25:58'We head back into the lanes again.
0:25:58 > 0:26:01'And it's a good job we've got some cover
0:26:01 > 0:26:03'because the skies are looking ominous.
0:26:03 > 0:26:06'And it's not long before the heavens open.
0:26:06 > 0:26:10# Raindrops keep falling on my head
0:26:10 > 0:26:13# Just like the guy whose feet are too big for his... #
0:26:13 > 0:26:18Now, I did say there'd be showers, but I wasn't expecting a monsoon.
0:26:18 > 0:26:22# Raindrops keep falling on my head Keep on falling. #
0:26:25 > 0:26:27'At least it doesn't last long.
0:26:27 > 0:26:30'The cloud is clearing and we're soon back in business.
0:26:32 > 0:26:35'We pass through Delacourse Farm,
0:26:35 > 0:26:39'then it's a 15-minute walk before we arrive at St Martin's Church.
0:26:44 > 0:26:47'This is Dylan and Caitlin's final resting place.'
0:26:50 > 0:26:53So here we are at my grandparents' grave.
0:26:53 > 0:26:56My grandmother was absolutely insistent
0:26:56 > 0:26:58that my grandfather should be returned to Wales.
0:26:58 > 0:27:02And then years later, she herself chose to be buried with him.
0:27:02 > 0:27:05It's nice to know they're both together again
0:27:05 > 0:27:09and that Laugharne is obviously a very special place for your family.
0:27:09 > 0:27:11It is. It really is.
0:27:11 > 0:27:15And what's the significance of the coins on the cross?
0:27:15 > 0:27:17I think they're just put there as a token, really,
0:27:17 > 0:27:20because my grandparents really had very little money
0:27:20 > 0:27:24when they were alive, so just a little gift.
0:27:24 > 0:27:26And are you surprised how popular Dylan is
0:27:26 > 0:27:27so many years after his death?
0:27:27 > 0:27:32I'm just hoping really that people recognise
0:27:32 > 0:27:36the wealth of work he created and the legacy he's left.
0:27:42 > 0:27:45'Back in town and with the light fading fast,
0:27:45 > 0:27:49'there's one last memory of Dylan Hannah wants to share with me.'
0:27:51 > 0:27:53So here we go, Derek, our final stop.
0:27:53 > 0:27:57My grandfather's favourite pub in Laugharne, the Brown's Hotel.
0:27:57 > 0:28:00- After you.- Thank you.
0:28:00 > 0:28:04'Dylan and Caitlin's drinking sprees are the stuff of legend,
0:28:04 > 0:28:07'but, as I've discovered on my walks,
0:28:07 > 0:28:12'there was so much more to Dylan Thomas than the legendary drinker.'
0:28:12 > 0:28:15Walking in Dylan's footsteps has really shown me
0:28:15 > 0:28:19a very different side to the man I thought I knew.
0:28:19 > 0:28:22But most of all, I've enjoyed roaming around his Wales
0:28:22 > 0:28:26and the places which left their mark not only on him,
0:28:26 > 0:28:29but on the pages of some of his greatest works.
0:28:29 > 0:28:34So, here's to you, Dylan, and our wonderful walks of discovery.
0:28:35 > 0:28:41# O, let us see another day...#
0:28:41 > 0:28:44And to end our journey, what could be more fitting
0:28:44 > 0:28:49than Eli Jenkins' prayer from Under Milk Wood?
0:28:49 > 0:28:56# And to the sun, we all will bow
0:28:56 > 0:28:59# And say goodbye
0:28:59 > 0:29:05# But just for now. #