0:00:02 > 0:00:06This is Portmeirion, where the 1960s cult TV series The Prisoner
0:00:06 > 0:00:11was filmed. It featured a killer weather balloon called Rover.
0:00:16 > 0:00:19It's really weird, but I think I'm being followed.
0:00:24 > 0:00:25Argh!
0:00:47 > 0:00:51This week, I'm visiting two Welsh holiday hot spots
0:00:51 > 0:00:52that really pull in the crowds.
0:00:52 > 0:00:55But I'll be bypassing their big attractions
0:00:55 > 0:00:59to uncover a more secret side that's well worth a look.
0:01:00 > 0:01:03Later in the programme, I'll be in Carmarthenshire,
0:01:03 > 0:01:06hunting for gold at Dolaucothi Gold Mines,
0:01:06 > 0:01:10before climbing to the highest point on the estate
0:01:10 > 0:01:12for some great views across the Cothi Valley.
0:01:15 > 0:01:18But first, I'm heading north to Portmeirion
0:01:18 > 0:01:22to explore this famous Italian-style village,
0:01:22 > 0:01:25before taking a walk on the wild side.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28Portmeirion is a true feast for the eyes,
0:01:28 > 0:01:32a place where everything has been planned and painted to perfection.
0:01:32 > 0:01:36But just a stone's throw from this centrepiece is Y Gwyllt,
0:01:36 > 0:01:41"the wilderness", which, in its own way, is just as breathtaking.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49I'm starting my walk on the other side of the estuary in Porthmadog,
0:01:49 > 0:01:52where I'm meeting my old friend, Meurig Jones.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55He's the events manager for Portmeirion
0:01:55 > 0:01:57and knows its every nook and cranny
0:01:57 > 0:02:00in this stunning part of Wales.
0:02:00 > 0:02:02Meurig, great to see you again.
0:02:02 > 0:02:05Derek, it's always brilliant to see you back in Porthmadog,
0:02:05 > 0:02:07and thank you for bringing this lovely weather with you.
0:02:07 > 0:02:10I was just looking at this wonderful old photograph of this very spot
0:02:10 > 0:02:13around 1870, and look at the big industrial harbour
0:02:13 > 0:02:15it was at that time.
0:02:15 > 0:02:20At the end of the 19th century, Porthmadog was a major port,
0:02:20 > 0:02:22shipping hundreds of thousands of tonnes
0:02:22 > 0:02:26of Blaenau Ffestiniog slate all across the world.
0:02:26 > 0:02:29It's amazing to think all these huge ships used to come to this very
0:02:29 > 0:02:31- area, here. - It's a bit different now.- Yes!
0:02:35 > 0:02:39And just like those ships, it's time for us to set off.
0:02:39 > 0:02:42Starting in the coastal town of Porthmadog in Gwynedd,
0:02:42 > 0:02:46we leave the harbour to cross the Cob and head inland
0:02:46 > 0:02:49until we arrive at the Italianate village of Portmeirion.
0:02:50 > 0:02:52But we're not stopping.
0:02:52 > 0:02:55We're off to explore its nearby wild headland,
0:02:55 > 0:03:00before ending our walk overlooking the beautiful village.
0:03:00 > 0:03:02To return, you can retrace your steps or catch a bus
0:03:02 > 0:03:05from Penrhyndeudraeth.
0:03:11 > 0:03:16Our first stop is another jewel in Porthmadog's industrial heritage.
0:03:17 > 0:03:19So, this is the Ffestiniog Railway?
0:03:19 > 0:03:21Yes, it is. This is the wonderful Ffestiniog Railway
0:03:21 > 0:03:23that goes back to the slate heritage.
0:03:23 > 0:03:25Before the Ffestiniog Railway,
0:03:25 > 0:03:27the only way of bringing slate down was by boat and, of course,
0:03:27 > 0:03:30that was very tidal and it was quite difficult.
0:03:30 > 0:03:33When the railways came here, it was a fantastic way of getting
0:03:33 > 0:03:35all the slate down to export then around the world.
0:03:35 > 0:03:39The slate industry was finished by the First World War, and the
0:03:39 > 0:03:41railway almost went under as well.
0:03:41 > 0:03:43But in the 1950s and '60s,
0:03:43 > 0:03:47it was revived by a band of dedicated volunteers
0:03:47 > 0:03:51and is now a hugely popular tourist attraction.
0:03:51 > 0:03:55It's also the oldest operational railway company in the world.
0:03:55 > 0:03:57But we're not going to go on the train today.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00We're going to have a little walk.
0:04:00 > 0:04:02Well, that's a shame, but even I agree -
0:04:02 > 0:04:04it's a bit too soon for a sit down.
0:04:09 > 0:04:12Great view of Cnicht and Snowdon from here, isn't it?
0:04:12 > 0:04:13Oh, it's great, isn't it?
0:04:18 > 0:04:21So, this is another important development
0:04:21 > 0:04:24in Porthmadog's history. This is the Cob.
0:04:24 > 0:04:27And it was William Madock's idea to build this.
0:04:27 > 0:04:30- When was it built? - It was built and opened in 1811.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34Wealthy local landowner William Madock
0:04:34 > 0:04:37created Porthmadog, and gave the town its name.
0:04:37 > 0:04:40He built the Cob in a failed attempt to create a new route
0:04:40 > 0:04:44from London to Ireland, via the Lleyn Peninsula.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48It did nearly ruin him, though, because it cost £60,000 to build.
0:04:48 > 0:04:51And in this day, that would be several million.
0:04:51 > 0:04:53Several million.
0:04:53 > 0:04:56But what Madocks' Cob did for the area is priceless,
0:04:56 > 0:05:01creating a wildlife paradise on the reclaimed land.
0:05:02 > 0:05:05- So, we've got to cross a busy road now.- Yes.
0:05:08 > 0:05:09Be careful.
0:05:14 > 0:05:17And now we're crossing the border into Meirionnydd.
0:05:17 > 0:05:21Which I often mention during my forecast.
0:05:21 > 0:05:25To recoup some of his money, Madock charged a toll for crossing the Cob,
0:05:25 > 0:05:29which, until recently, created a bit of a bottleneck.
0:05:29 > 0:05:32Now then, Derek, do you remember paying 5p to go across the Cob?
0:05:32 > 0:05:35I do, yes. It stopped over ten years ago now.
0:05:35 > 0:05:38- It did, indeed.- And it used to cause chaos and gridlock in the summer...
0:05:38 > 0:05:41- It did.- ..with all the traffic trying to get over.- It did, indeed.
0:05:41 > 0:05:44It was quite difficult to get over the Cob in the summer.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47It was stopped on the 29th of March 2003.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50And how I remember that date is because the car in front of me
0:05:50 > 0:05:53was the last car to be charged, and I was the first car that came
0:05:53 > 0:05:56- through not having to pay.- The first?- So, that was quite lucky.
0:05:56 > 0:06:00- What did that feel like? - Freedom, I suppose.
0:06:00 > 0:06:05- But it was lovely. - Saved you 5p.- Absolutely!
0:06:06 > 0:06:09Today, traffic flows much quicker,
0:06:09 > 0:06:11so it's a relief to leave the busy road behind
0:06:11 > 0:06:13and head for a woodland walk.
0:06:20 > 0:06:22Up here, the views back over Porthmadog
0:06:22 > 0:06:26and the Glaslyn estuary are just breathtaking.
0:06:41 > 0:06:43- Not quite Portmeirion yet.- Nearly.
0:06:46 > 0:06:49Now, there is a charge to enter Portmeirion,
0:06:49 > 0:06:52so check before you set off for up-to-date prices.
0:06:53 > 0:06:57Here we are, Derek. Entering Portmeirion.
0:06:57 > 0:06:59Which was built by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis.
0:06:59 > 0:07:03- Yes.- It was. It was his vision. - It was, indeed.
0:07:03 > 0:07:06Clough Williams-Ellis was an eccentric architect
0:07:06 > 0:07:10who spent 50 years between the 1920s and the 1970s
0:07:10 > 0:07:13perfecting this Italian-inspired village
0:07:13 > 0:07:14on the North Wales coast.
0:07:14 > 0:07:16This we're walking underneath, Gatehouse,
0:07:16 > 0:07:19he felt very strongly that every way you come into the village,
0:07:19 > 0:07:22you need to feel as if you've arrived.
0:07:22 > 0:07:24- Did you ever meet him? - Unfortunately not.
0:07:24 > 0:07:28The closest I did was I was in the schools choir who sang
0:07:28 > 0:07:30for Clough in 1976, here.
0:07:30 > 0:07:32That's the closest I got to meeting him.
0:07:32 > 0:07:35- And now you work here.- Absolutely. It's a fantastic place.
0:07:35 > 0:07:36- It really is.- Portmeirion
0:07:46 > 0:07:51became world-famous as the location for cult TV series
0:07:51 > 0:07:56The Prisoner, that in turn has inspired an annual music festival -
0:07:56 > 0:07:57Festival No. 6,
0:07:57 > 0:08:00with headline bands including the Manic Street Preachers
0:08:00 > 0:08:04and the Pet Shop Boys. Well, this is lovely.
0:08:04 > 0:08:07Yes, this is the quayside and this is the River Dwyryd.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10And it's a lovely calm estuary at the moment.
0:08:21 > 0:08:25But we're leaving the tranquillity to head to the wilderness.
0:08:27 > 0:08:29And here we are, Derek, we are entering the Gwyllt.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32I can see why it gets its name, it is wild in here.
0:08:32 > 0:08:34Yes, it is. Totally different to what we left, of course.
0:08:34 > 0:08:36There's so many interesting things to see here.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- Just look at that tree. - It's a funny shape.
0:08:38 > 0:08:40Absolutely, there's lots more like that here.
0:08:40 > 0:08:41Shall we go and see them?
0:08:47 > 0:08:49Well, Derek, have you seen one of these before?
0:08:49 > 0:08:52- What is it?- It's a wishing tree.
0:08:52 > 0:08:54Some very unusual things happened in 2007.
0:08:54 > 0:08:56We were widening the path here,
0:08:56 > 0:08:58so the gardeners had to cut back this tree.
0:08:58 > 0:09:00I was walking back about three months later,
0:09:00 > 0:09:02people were putting coins in it. I had no idea what it was,
0:09:02 > 0:09:05so I went on the internet - wishing trees.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08It's an old Celtic tradition. If you have an illness or ailment,
0:09:08 > 0:09:11you're supposed to put money into a tree and the illness goes into the
0:09:11 > 0:09:14tree with the money. But if you take the money out of the tree,
0:09:14 > 0:09:17you're supposed to get the illness of the person who put the money in.
0:09:17 > 0:09:20So, the moral is, don't take the money out of the tree.
0:09:20 > 0:09:25Right, well, I think I've got a penny, so here we go.
0:09:25 > 0:09:27There we are.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31Should stop me from feeling under the weather. Hopefully.
0:09:51 > 0:09:52Are you feeling fit, Derek?
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- I think so, yes.- We're going to go up the 49 steps.
0:09:55 > 0:09:5849? I can manage that.
0:09:58 > 0:10:02- Right, I'm going to count these steps just to make sure.- OK.
0:10:07 > 0:10:0949, you were right.
0:10:09 > 0:10:13- Come on, keep up.- OK!
0:10:18 > 0:10:20So, this is the Chinese lake area.
0:10:20 > 0:10:23This area was developed by Susan, Clough's daughter.
0:10:23 > 0:10:27And she was very hands-on on the gardens from the early '50s.
0:10:27 > 0:10:30And it was her idea to have a Chinese lake and a Chinese bridge
0:10:30 > 0:10:33and Pagoda there. One of the last things that she designed
0:10:33 > 0:10:36was the screen behind us there, and the most important thing about
0:10:36 > 0:10:39the screen is the hole in the middle, because it's a framed
0:10:39 > 0:10:40picture of her favourite view,
0:10:40 > 0:10:43which was sitting on there, looking at the Chinese lake.
0:10:43 > 0:10:46- It's lovely. - A window overlooking the lake.
0:10:46 > 0:10:49- Absolutely.- It's beautiful.
0:10:50 > 0:10:55Susan's hard work here has helped create this special sanctuary.
0:10:55 > 0:10:58It's just a shame we can't stay here all day,
0:10:58 > 0:11:00but Meurig has lots more to show me.
0:11:14 > 0:11:17One thing I like about Portmeirion is there's so many different trees
0:11:17 > 0:11:20- and plants here. - Oh, there's a fantastic collection.
0:11:20 > 0:11:23The gardens were started in the 1850s.
0:11:23 > 0:11:26Sir William Fothergill-Cook was a Victorian plant collector who went
0:11:26 > 0:11:29around Asia mainly, collecting up all these rare species.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32We're on the Gulf stream here, we very rarely get any frost and snows.
0:11:32 > 0:11:35So, these plants from Asia, that shouldn't grow in Wales,
0:11:35 > 0:11:37- were flourishing here, you know? - We could be in the middle
0:11:37 > 0:11:41- of a jungle, couldn't we? - Yes, we could.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- Gosh, what's this? - This is our dog cemetery.
0:11:53 > 0:11:57That was started here by Adelaide Haig,
0:11:57 > 0:11:59and she was the person who was
0:11:59 > 0:12:02living in the main hotel now when it was a house.
0:12:02 > 0:12:05And she preferred the company of dogs to people,
0:12:05 > 0:12:08and she had 15 dogs and she used to read the Bible to them from behind
0:12:08 > 0:12:11a screen in the mirror room. We don't know why she did that,
0:12:11 > 0:12:13but she started the dog cemetery here
0:12:13 > 0:12:16and some of these graves date from 1875 onwards.
0:12:16 > 0:12:19Well, I think it's a wonderful idea. People love their pets,
0:12:19 > 0:12:22- and what a great place to come and remember them.- Yes.
0:12:27 > 0:12:31It's just amazing what you can discover when you take time out from
0:12:31 > 0:12:34the village to explore this Welsh wilderness.
0:12:36 > 0:12:38It's a bit of a climb, but...
0:12:38 > 0:12:41it's well worth it, just look at that.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44- Absolutely stunning. - That's great, isn't it?
0:12:57 > 0:12:58So, this is the Dwyryd Estuary.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01Yes, it is. And that's the Glaslyn there.
0:13:01 > 0:13:03And in the distance there,
0:13:03 > 0:13:06we can see the Lleyn Peninsula, Morfa Bychan,
0:13:06 > 0:13:07and we can even see Harlech.
0:13:10 > 0:13:12- Fantastic.- That's great, isn't it?
0:13:26 > 0:13:29And there are even more magical gardens to discover.
0:13:37 > 0:13:38What do you think of these, Derek?
0:13:38 > 0:13:41This is my favourite place in Y Gwyllt, this is Tanglewood.
0:13:41 > 0:13:45And these are rhododendrons that are over 110 years old, and they've all
0:13:45 > 0:13:47grown-up in this twisted way.
0:13:47 > 0:13:49I think it's quite magical, quite otherworldly.
0:13:49 > 0:13:52Well, I didn't know rhododendrons could grow this big.
0:13:52 > 0:13:54- And they're not trees? - No, they're bushes.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57- We could be standing in Japan, couldn't we?- Yes, we could.
0:14:04 > 0:14:06Well, we're nearly at the end of the journey now, Derek.
0:14:06 > 0:14:09This is Castle Rock, the site of the original 12th century castle that
0:14:09 > 0:14:12was here, Castell Deudraeth.
0:14:18 > 0:14:20Here we are, Derek. This is the end of the walk.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22And this is the best view of the village.
0:14:22 > 0:14:26Well, thanks very much, Meurig. It's been absolutely fascinating.
0:14:26 > 0:14:29I thought I knew this area very well, but it just goes to show,
0:14:29 > 0:14:32there's always something new to be discovered.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34- Diolch yn fawr.- Croeso.
0:14:44 > 0:14:47And if you fancy trying this or another of our walks,
0:14:47 > 0:14:48go to our website.
0:14:52 > 0:14:54It's got detailed route information
0:14:54 > 0:14:57and walking maps for you to print off,
0:14:57 > 0:15:00or you can download it onto your tablet and take it with you.
0:15:02 > 0:15:05Dolaucothi gold mines are a treasure trove of discovery.
0:15:05 > 0:15:09With over 2,000 years of history and underground mines to explore,
0:15:09 > 0:15:12it's no wonder most visitors stay put.
0:15:12 > 0:15:16But I'm off to discover a very different side, full of murder,
0:15:16 > 0:15:18myth and mystery.
0:15:23 > 0:15:27Taking me on my tour through time is head guide, Emyr Thomas.
0:15:27 > 0:15:31He's a local lad and has worked at Dolaucothi for over three years.
0:15:31 > 0:15:35So if anyone can help me get my hands on some gold, it's him.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38- Shw mae, Emyr.- Iawn, diolch.- Thanks for meeting me.- You're welcome.
0:15:38 > 0:15:39Welcome to Dolaucothi.
0:15:39 > 0:15:42Now, these aren't any old mines, are they?
0:15:42 > 0:15:43They're gold mines.
0:15:43 > 0:15:45Yes, it's the only known Roman gold mine in Britain,
0:15:45 > 0:15:47so it's quite a special place.
0:15:47 > 0:15:49Am I going to find any gold here today?
0:15:49 > 0:15:51There's not too much left after the Romans were here,
0:15:51 > 0:15:53but I can show you the best place to look for it.
0:15:53 > 0:15:54Show me the gold.
0:16:00 > 0:16:04Our Roman rendezvous starts near the small village of Pumsaint
0:16:04 > 0:16:07in Carmarthenshire. Leaving the yard,
0:16:07 > 0:16:11we make our way up to the Roman mine for some underground exploration,
0:16:11 > 0:16:15before setting off uphill to complete our Trig Point Challenge.
0:16:16 > 0:16:19It's then a downhill stroll back to the village
0:16:19 > 0:16:21for a well-deserved rest,
0:16:21 > 0:16:24before walking back to the starting point.
0:16:24 > 0:16:26A round trip of four miles.
0:16:27 > 0:16:31But first, it's time for a treasure hunt.
0:16:31 > 0:16:33I'm sure you've heard of panning for gold.
0:16:33 > 0:16:36- I've always wanted to do this. - Well, now's your chance.
0:16:36 > 0:16:40All you need to do is put the pan with the rims facing away from you.
0:16:40 > 0:16:42Scoop all that up.
0:16:42 > 0:16:46And shake all that water out and get rid of all the big bits.
0:16:46 > 0:16:49You don't want anything that looks like stone.
0:16:49 > 0:16:51You want to get to the finer stuff.
0:16:51 > 0:16:54Gold is really heavy, but also fool's gold is very heavy
0:16:54 > 0:16:57and that getting caught up in there as well.
0:16:57 > 0:17:00- I've heard of fool's gold. What exactly is it?- It's iron pyrite.
0:17:00 > 0:17:02It's very similar to gold in look.
0:17:02 > 0:17:05You tend to find it wherever you find gold.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08So it's the clue that you could have had gold at this site.
0:17:08 > 0:17:10Well, I'm feeling quite lucky today. If I find anything,
0:17:10 > 0:17:14- do I get to keep it? - Of course you do, yeah.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17There's a little bit of pyrite there.
0:17:17 > 0:17:19Oh, yeah.
0:17:19 > 0:17:21There you go, there's a little souvenir for you.
0:17:22 > 0:17:26Not quite a gold nugget but it'll have to do.
0:17:26 > 0:17:28Right, let's get underground.
0:17:28 > 0:17:29OK.
0:17:29 > 0:17:32And to go underground, we need to get kitted up.
0:17:39 > 0:17:40- We're all set to go.- OK.
0:17:44 > 0:17:46So, this is one of the mines?
0:17:46 > 0:17:49Yeah, this is part of the 1930s workings,
0:17:49 > 0:17:51one of our more modern periods.
0:17:51 > 0:17:53They stopped mining here in 1938.
0:17:54 > 0:17:58The site has three different periods of activity to explore,
0:17:58 > 0:18:01with Roman and Victorian underground mines as well as the remains
0:18:01 > 0:18:04of the 1930s mine yard.
0:18:04 > 0:18:07The site and surrounding walks are free,
0:18:07 > 0:18:11but if you want to tour the mines, there is a charge.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13We're not too far from the mine entrance.
0:18:13 > 0:18:15Quite nice through the trees.
0:18:15 > 0:18:17Gives it a different setting, doesn't it?
0:18:19 > 0:18:21- Lovely view.- Yeah.
0:18:21 > 0:18:25Well, you can't see too much today, but the village of Pumsaint is down
0:18:25 > 0:18:28there. It was the site of this Roman Fort that was discovered by the
0:18:28 > 0:18:31Victorians. Right in the centre is the military headquarters.
0:18:31 > 0:18:33The Fort Of Five Saints.
0:18:33 > 0:18:37Yes. Five saints is where the village gets its name from.
0:18:37 > 0:18:39Today, there is nothing left to see the Roman fort,
0:18:39 > 0:18:44but experts agree that soon after it was built, around 70 AD,
0:18:44 > 0:18:47the gold mining began.
0:18:47 > 0:18:49So, here we are at the entrance of our Roman gold mine.
0:18:49 > 0:18:52We're going to be going straight through the hillside now.
0:18:52 > 0:18:54On the other side, there's an opencast.
0:18:54 > 0:18:55The miners were digging down,
0:18:55 > 0:18:58originally sending the quartz over the top,
0:18:58 > 0:19:00but they created this access route to make life a lot easier.
0:19:00 > 0:19:04- Shall we go and have a look at it? - Looks a bit dark in there.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07- I've got the keys to a gold mine here.- Hey-hey!
0:19:07 > 0:19:10There we go. After you.
0:19:15 > 0:19:18- Watch your head there, Derek.- Oops! Watch your head!
0:19:18 > 0:19:21THEY LAUGH
0:19:25 > 0:19:28You can see it's perfectly square cut.
0:19:28 > 0:19:31These corners on each side, it's taken a lot of time.
0:19:31 > 0:19:33You can even see some of the markings right above your head here.
0:19:33 > 0:19:35How old would these be?
0:19:35 > 0:19:38Well, they must date back to about 2,000 years ago now.
0:19:38 > 0:19:42- 2,000 years?- Yeah. From the Roman period.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45Of course, all put in by slave labour.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47It wasn't the Romans doing the hard work themselves.
0:19:47 > 0:19:50And what sort of implements would they have used?
0:19:50 > 0:19:52A hammer can get through this rock here.
0:19:52 > 0:19:56This is shale, and shale is quite soft, closer to the surface,
0:19:56 > 0:19:58when you get deeper underground, it's hard.
0:19:58 > 0:20:01This is why...we're in a hard-rock mine and there are no pit props or
0:20:01 > 0:20:04anything like that holding the rock up.
0:20:06 > 0:20:08This is what all the work was for.
0:20:08 > 0:20:11So far, we've been mainly going through the shale rock.
0:20:11 > 0:20:14This grey rock here, that's layered, looks a lot like slate.
0:20:14 > 0:20:16But unfortunately isn't worth anything.
0:20:16 > 0:20:19What you really want here is the quartz,
0:20:19 > 0:20:23because it's inside the quartz you'll find these tiny little bits
0:20:23 > 0:20:24of gold, like gold dust.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27We know it's inside this quartz because it's rusty on the outside.
0:20:27 > 0:20:31That means there's plenty of iron pyrite, fool's gold around.
0:20:31 > 0:20:32So, this is the stuff they were after.
0:20:32 > 0:20:36That's exactly what they were looking for.
0:20:42 > 0:20:46Well, that was fascinating but it's nice to be back out in the sunshine
0:20:46 > 0:20:48- again.- Yeah. Well, we won't be needing these any more,
0:20:48 > 0:20:50so let's pop them down.
0:20:59 > 0:21:03This lush green landscape hides over 2,000 years of industrial activity,
0:21:05 > 0:21:08with the final search for gold ending in the 1930s.
0:21:12 > 0:21:14So, you see these concrete blocks here,
0:21:14 > 0:21:19these are the remains of the old barracks where the 1930s miners
0:21:19 > 0:21:22were accommodated. We've got the old shower block here,
0:21:22 > 0:21:24you can see the drain still in the middle there.
0:21:33 > 0:21:37We've got a nice view over here of the largest opencast at the site,
0:21:37 > 0:21:40the Victorian miners put their mine yard in the bottom here.
0:21:40 > 0:21:43This would have looked very different when the Romans were here,
0:21:43 > 0:21:46though. Very grey and quarry-like, it would have been
0:21:46 > 0:21:48- a lot deeper as well.- So it would have been really noisy here.
0:21:48 > 0:21:50Lots of people, lots of activity?
0:21:50 > 0:21:53Yeah. You can imagine the fire down there,
0:21:53 > 0:21:56they would have been using fire setting to heat up the rock
0:21:56 > 0:21:59so it expands and breaks. Washing all that water through as well,
0:21:59 > 0:22:01to get rid of that loose rock.
0:22:09 > 0:22:13Today, nature has covered up most of the traces of mining,
0:22:13 > 0:22:14but in a clearing is a stone
0:22:14 > 0:22:18which tells how the village of Pumsaint got its name.
0:22:22 > 0:22:27- So, this is it, Carreg Pumsaint. - The Stone Of The Five Saints.
0:22:27 > 0:22:31Yes. It's a legend that goes back many years,
0:22:31 > 0:22:35the local people here talk about these five saints that were walking
0:22:35 > 0:22:38through this part of Wales to St David's on a pilgrimage.
0:22:38 > 0:22:41The evil sorcerer didn't want those five saints to get through,
0:22:41 > 0:22:44so he conjured up a nice big hailstorm,
0:22:44 > 0:22:47so the only bit of shelter that four of those saints could find was this
0:22:47 > 0:22:49stone. And you can see their indentations here.
0:22:49 > 0:22:52The head and their shoulders marked out on each side.
0:22:52 > 0:22:54The fifth saint was taken underground,
0:22:54 > 0:22:56and he's meant to still be down there.
0:22:56 > 0:22:59That's where the village gets its name from - Pumsaint.
0:22:59 > 0:23:01That's the story, anyway.
0:23:01 > 0:23:03It's a great story,
0:23:03 > 0:23:08but now archaeologists believe that the stone was a Roman anvil,
0:23:08 > 0:23:11used for crushing the quartz to get to the gold.
0:23:19 > 0:23:22So, we're leaving the mines behind us now,
0:23:22 > 0:23:25we're going out on the estate. Not many people do these walks,
0:23:25 > 0:23:27but we're trying to encourage more people up here,
0:23:27 > 0:23:29so we're about to attempt the Trig Point Challenge now.
0:23:29 > 0:23:32Sounds interesting. I like a challenge.
0:23:38 > 0:23:39As we cross the River Cothi,
0:23:39 > 0:23:42we make our way towards another important site
0:23:42 > 0:23:46in this area's vibrant history.
0:23:46 > 0:23:49Now, not much remains of the Dolaucothi mansion,
0:23:49 > 0:23:53but we've got here the wall, that was part of the walled garden.
0:23:53 > 0:23:55There's a bit of quartz and there as well.
0:23:55 > 0:23:59Yeah. All this rock has come from the local area so, yeah,
0:23:59 > 0:24:01could be little bits of gold in there.
0:24:03 > 0:24:06The mansion was the home of the Johns family,
0:24:06 > 0:24:09who were wealthy landowners in the early 1900s,
0:24:09 > 0:24:13and who own the nearby gold mines.
0:24:13 > 0:24:16So, this is it, this is where the Dolaucothi mansion would have stood.
0:24:16 > 0:24:20All you can see today is part of the servants' wing at the back of the
0:24:20 > 0:24:22house, as it would have been.
0:24:22 > 0:24:26I've got a picture of Dolaucothi mansion in my bag.
0:24:26 > 0:24:30So, this is it. The Johns family had acquired the estate in the late
0:24:30 > 0:24:3216th century.
0:24:32 > 0:24:34- Quite a grand building. - Yeah, it's a beautiful building.
0:24:34 > 0:24:38A very simple design. 28 rooms in total.
0:24:38 > 0:24:42In the 1800s, there were about 3,000 acres of estate at this site.
0:24:43 > 0:24:47But sadly, like many stately homes in Wales,
0:24:47 > 0:24:51the mansion was too expensive to run after the Second World War and was
0:24:51 > 0:24:53mostly demolished in the 1950s.
0:24:56 > 0:24:59Today, the whole estate is in the care of the National Trust,
0:24:59 > 0:25:02who have created a network of trails to explore,
0:25:02 > 0:25:04depending on how fit you feel.
0:25:06 > 0:25:09It's a bit of a climb up here, but not too far.
0:25:09 > 0:25:13Just a few cumulus clouds now. At least it's dry and sunny.
0:25:39 > 0:25:41It's nice and sheltered in here.
0:25:41 > 0:25:44Yeah, there's quite a lot of wildlife in the woodlands
0:25:44 > 0:25:45in this part.
0:25:45 > 0:25:48We're trying to reintroduce red squirrels into the area.
0:25:48 > 0:25:51They've got a lot of red squirrels over by Rhandirmwyn
0:25:51 > 0:25:53and Llyn Brianne. Hopefully, given a few years,
0:25:53 > 0:25:56we'll have this whole woodland full of red squirrels.
0:26:00 > 0:26:04Emyr has been threatening me with something called the
0:26:04 > 0:26:07Trig Point Challenge. And now I know what he means.
0:26:07 > 0:26:10We're climbing up to the highest point on the estate.
0:26:10 > 0:26:12I'm not as fit as I used to be, see.
0:26:13 > 0:26:14Of course, you're half my age.
0:26:17 > 0:26:19- How far is the top?- Not far now.
0:26:21 > 0:26:24So, here we are. We've made it to the trig point.
0:26:24 > 0:26:27- We did it.- Yeah. What do you think of the views?
0:26:27 > 0:26:30Oh, fantastic. We can see for miles.
0:26:38 > 0:26:39Well worth the effort.
0:26:39 > 0:26:42Yeah. This is one of my favourite spots on the site.
0:26:42 > 0:26:46We've got this contrasting view here of the Cothi Valley, going down
0:26:46 > 0:26:47towards the Tywi Valley.
0:26:47 > 0:26:50And then over here, we've got these mountains going over to Llyn Brianne
0:26:50 > 0:26:54- and Rhandirmwyn. - It's wonderful. So, where to next?
0:26:54 > 0:26:56Well, you'll be glad to know, it's all downhill now.
0:26:56 > 0:26:59And I've got a little treat for you at the end.
0:26:59 > 0:27:00I look forward to that.
0:27:10 > 0:27:14And it's not long before Emyr keeps his promise and we reach the village
0:27:14 > 0:27:19of Pumsaint, where I'm treated to a refreshing drink at the local pub.
0:27:20 > 0:27:23It's a lovely place to end our walk, isn't it?
0:27:23 > 0:27:25- Beautiful.- Now, there's a reason I brought you here.
0:27:25 > 0:27:27There's one last story I want to tell you.
0:27:27 > 0:27:30It's with regards to this pub here, the Dolaucothi Arms.
0:27:30 > 0:27:32It's all part of the Dolaucothi estate,
0:27:32 > 0:27:35you remember the mansion I showed you earlier on,
0:27:35 > 0:27:37where the Johns family lived. Judge John Johns was a big,
0:27:37 > 0:27:40popular figure in the community at that time.
0:27:40 > 0:27:43His butler of 17 years' service, Henry Tremble,
0:27:43 > 0:27:46decided to shoot him in his own study.
0:27:46 > 0:27:48With his own shotgun.
0:27:48 > 0:27:51The reason for that was because Henry Tremble was refused the
0:27:51 > 0:27:55application to become the landlord of this pub here.
0:27:55 > 0:27:56Big news at the time,
0:27:56 > 0:28:00shook the whole community and made national papers back in 1876.
0:28:00 > 0:28:02Gosh, what a way to end a walk!
0:28:02 > 0:28:06So, it was the butler in the study with the gun.
0:28:06 > 0:28:10Blimey. Emyr, thank you so much for an interesting and varied walk.
0:28:10 > 0:28:14And it just goes to show, it's well worth leaving the crowds behind,
0:28:14 > 0:28:16getting outdoors and discovering new things.
0:28:16 > 0:28:18- Iechyd da.- Iechyd da.- Cheers.