0:00:00 > 0:00:05Beautiful as it is in this Italianate village of Portmeirion,
0:00:05 > 0:00:08you can't keep me a prisoner here.
0:00:08 > 0:00:11No, I'm off into the hills for a spot of walking.
0:00:12 > 0:00:13Are you ready?
0:00:58 > 0:01:00MUSIC
0:01:00 > 0:01:05Portmeirion is famous for its cream teas, pottery and architecture.
0:01:05 > 0:01:08It's visited by thousands of people every year.
0:01:08 > 0:01:12Its creator, Clough Williams-Ellis, couldn't be held captive here.
0:01:12 > 0:01:16He was most at home in the foothills of Snowdonia
0:01:16 > 0:01:19on his beautiful and beloved Brondanw Estate.
0:01:19 > 0:01:22'That is where we'll be heading for the first of our walks.
0:01:22 > 0:01:24'A proper hill walk.
0:01:24 > 0:01:29'The other will be a gentler affair on the level, the Gwent Levels.
0:01:29 > 0:01:32'Down by the sea just outside Newport.'
0:01:32 > 0:01:36Two walks, as different as chalk and cheese you might say.
0:01:36 > 0:01:39The chalk, or limestone of coastal South Wales.
0:01:39 > 0:01:42The cheese? Swiss cheese, perhaps.
0:01:42 > 0:01:46Today, we're climbing the Matterhorn, the Welsh Matterhorn.
0:01:46 > 0:01:50'On the fringes of Snowdonia National Park,
0:01:50 > 0:01:53'a few miles inland from Portmeirion,
0:01:53 > 0:01:58'our walk will take us to the summit of Cnicht, to give the mountain its proper name.
0:01:58 > 0:02:01'Seen from the southwest, I could be persuaded.
0:02:01 > 0:02:04'It deserves its title of the Welsh Matterhorn.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07'I do like pointed peaks.'
0:02:07 > 0:02:10All I need now is a guide with some local knowledge,
0:02:10 > 0:02:16just like the Alpine guides who lead their clients up the Matterhorn.
0:02:16 > 0:02:23'Based in Blaenau Ffestiniog, Ceri Cunnington works as chairman
0:02:23 > 0:02:27'of Antur Stiniog, a project to develop outdoor activities
0:02:27 > 0:02:33'and provide work in the area's old slate mining communities.
0:02:33 > 0:02:37'In his spare time, he's also a musician and a singer in a band.
0:02:37 > 0:02:42'Here is my musical mountain guide on his mountain bike.
0:02:42 > 0:02:46'Today's walk starts from the village of Croesor.
0:02:46 > 0:02:48'At first, its easy walking.
0:02:48 > 0:02:52'But as you approach your target, things start to get steeper.
0:02:52 > 0:02:53'From the summit of Cnicht,
0:02:53 > 0:02:57'the ridge to the northeast is more straightforward.
0:02:57 > 0:03:01'Then a change in direction takes us towards disused slate quarries
0:03:01 > 0:03:04finishing with a descent down old quarrying paths
0:03:04 > 0:03:07'and tramways to Croesor.'
0:03:07 > 0:03:11To our right is our destination today.
0:03:11 > 0:03:16- It looks a bit steep from here. - It really is the Welsh Matterhorn.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19'Croesor village is part of the Brondanw Estate.
0:03:19 > 0:03:22'Clough Williams-Ellis, the architect of Portmeirion,
0:03:22 > 0:03:24'took it over from his Dad in 1908.
0:03:24 > 0:03:29'Clough was not a conventional landowner. He was an arty type.
0:03:29 > 0:03:32'Over the years, creative people have been drawn to the valley.
0:03:32 > 0:03:38'Ceri himself first moved here to write music with his band, Anweledig.'
0:03:38 > 0:03:42- You used to be a rock star, didn't you?- Not quite a rock star.
0:03:42 > 0:03:46We were in a band for over ten years.
0:03:46 > 0:03:51- What was it called?- Anweledig. It was good fun while it lasted.
0:03:51 > 0:03:54But we sort of grew up.
0:03:54 > 0:03:59- Did you sell a lot of albums? - Erm, a dozen.
0:03:59 > 0:04:01# Dwi'n meddwl weithiau am y byd mawr crwn
0:04:01 > 0:04:05# Sut yn y byd daeth y gofod hwn o allai ddim esbonio
0:04:06 > 0:04:10# Nid gwyddonydd ydw i a segnnai'm...#
0:04:10 > 0:04:15'Through his work, Ceri tries to encourage local people to find jobs
0:04:15 > 0:04:18'in the growing area of outdoor activities.
0:04:18 > 0:04:21'Until recently, much of this work has gone to incomers.'
0:04:21 > 0:04:26It's still true to some fact, but I think the tide is turning.
0:04:26 > 0:04:31I think the next generation, hopefully, will take advantage of it.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34I think it's only 5% of local people
0:04:34 > 0:04:39actually work in the outdoor industry in Northwest Wales.
0:04:39 > 0:04:42That's really surprising, surprisingly low.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45I doubt it's seen as a traditional way of making a living.
0:04:45 > 0:04:47Tourism is becoming more important.
0:04:47 > 0:04:51We're about 20 minutes from the village now.
0:04:51 > 0:04:56But it's starting to open out already. It's just stunning.
0:04:56 > 0:04:59- It's a bit hazy, but it's dry. - Yes and it will be dry all day.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02Well, I'm not sure about that!
0:05:02 > 0:05:08- Don't say that. - I can feel a shower brewing.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14We can see down into Cwm Croesor now.
0:05:14 > 0:05:19A lovely u-shaped valley. Moelwyn Mawr looking very imposing.
0:05:19 > 0:05:24Moelwyn Bach is just beside it, under its cap, Moelwyn o dan ei gap.
0:05:24 > 0:05:27- Onwards and upwards? - Onwards and upwards.
0:05:29 > 0:05:32'The remnants of this area's slate industry,
0:05:32 > 0:05:35'are not yet obvious in the hills around us.
0:05:35 > 0:05:39'But opening up behind is a rather misty view of Traeth Mawr.
0:05:39 > 0:05:44'The land was reclaimed from the sea when William Madocks built a wall,
0:05:44 > 0:05:47'the Cob, across the Glaslyn Estuary.'
0:05:47 > 0:05:51What's amazing is that when Madocks built the Cob,
0:05:51 > 0:05:54the Glaslyn had to go somewhere.
0:05:54 > 0:06:00It diverted and snaked across the Cob and created this natural harbour.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03It was of benefit to Madocks.
0:06:03 > 0:06:08He was able to export the slate from the harbour around the world.
0:06:08 > 0:06:13I think we have to get going because the weather is closing in.
0:06:13 > 0:06:15Nice one.
0:06:15 > 0:06:18MUSIC
0:06:25 > 0:06:29We're getting closer, but it still looks blinkin' hard to me.
0:06:29 > 0:06:32That's the first and last pull.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46I'm feeling a bit tired now, I have to admit.
0:06:46 > 0:06:49- It's quite a climb up there.- Yes.
0:06:49 > 0:06:52He keeps telling me we're getting closer and I believe him.
0:07:02 > 0:07:07This is amazing. We can see the whole valley from top to bottom.
0:07:07 > 0:07:10We had snippets of it earlier. But you see the scale of the thing now.
0:07:10 > 0:07:14It's a classic u-shape. Mind blowing views, even in this weather.
0:07:14 > 0:07:20You see the old Croesor tramway going into the distance.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23The quarry there, Chwarel Croesor.
0:07:23 > 0:07:28You can see just the tops of Rhosydd Quarry over there.
0:07:28 > 0:07:33We'll be exploring that later on, but we should get a move on.
0:07:35 > 0:07:40'Well, we can see the summit, but I'm not sure that's a good thing.
0:07:40 > 0:07:44'Now for the really steep bit.'
0:07:48 > 0:07:51What I'm worried about is how we'll pick our way to the top.
0:07:51 > 0:07:55- There's no path.- There is, you just can't see it from here.
0:07:55 > 0:07:59This is the final stretch. It looks a bit hairy, but you'll be OK.
0:07:59 > 0:08:01After you.
0:08:16 > 0:08:22- So far, so good.- Is it as bad as you thought?- Not really, no.
0:08:22 > 0:08:26Once you get the momentum and keep going.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30- You're like a mountain goat! - Something like that.
0:08:31 > 0:08:38- See the false summit. - This one? Where's the real one?
0:08:38 > 0:08:42- About two miles that way.- Get off.
0:08:42 > 0:08:44You're having me on.
0:08:47 > 0:08:52'I'm glad to say he was having me on. This is the real summit.'
0:08:56 > 0:09:02We've done it. The top of the Welsh Matterhorn. Copa'r Cnicht.
0:09:02 > 0:09:06- Llongyfarchiadau.- A chithau hefyd. Congratulations.
0:09:06 > 0:09:10- A real sense of satisfaction. - How do you feel now?- Relieved.
0:09:10 > 0:09:16It is wonderful. You've got to do it. Where do we go from here?
0:09:16 > 0:09:20We do down a different way to Rhosydd Quarry.
0:09:20 > 0:09:24Then down the old miners' path. A totally different walk.
0:09:24 > 0:09:27- But just as spectacular. Up for it?- Definitely. Come on.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31MUSIC
0:09:31 > 0:09:36'Well, the weatherman does sometimes get it right.
0:09:36 > 0:09:40'The weather has become pretty awful.
0:09:40 > 0:09:44'But at least we're now on easy ground along a broad ridge.'
0:09:45 > 0:09:49There's a lot of rain up here. What's that patch of water there?
0:09:49 > 0:09:55- Llyn Adar.- Llyn Adar. Does that mean, lake of the bird?- Birds.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58It's some of the best wild fishing in Wales, they say.
0:09:58 > 0:10:01- You can get brithyll. - What's that?- Trout.
0:10:01 > 0:10:05'I don't think we'll be hanging around for wild fishing today.
0:10:05 > 0:10:10'This section between the ridge and the quarries is the most difficult to navigate.
0:10:10 > 0:10:12'If you're not familiar with the area,
0:10:12 > 0:10:15'a compass might be handy to use with your map,
0:10:15 > 0:10:17'assuming you know what to do with it!
0:10:17 > 0:10:23'In mists like this, a compass is essential. Time to take a bearing.'
0:10:23 > 0:10:26- You need a map and compass up here. - Absolutely.
0:10:26 > 0:10:31- Even when the weather is good. - The path is indistinct here.
0:10:34 > 0:10:37We've just come from here, Llyn Adar. OK.
0:10:37 > 0:10:42- It's this way.- Yes.- Are you sure? - Yes, follow the compass.
0:10:43 > 0:10:50'Before long, we can make out the ruined barracks of Rhosydd Quarry,
0:10:50 > 0:10:54'the isolated and grim living quarters for the quarry workers.'
0:10:54 > 0:10:58The stories about Rhosydd Quarry are incredible.
0:10:58 > 0:11:00The bunk beds were never empty.
0:11:00 > 0:11:03When one man finished his shift, another one started.
0:11:03 > 0:11:05They shared bunks.
0:11:05 > 0:11:10The stories about the chwain, fleas, are incredible.
0:11:10 > 0:11:15When the men left work on Saturday afternoon,
0:11:15 > 0:11:18they came back on a Sunday evening or a Monday morning.
0:11:18 > 0:11:22The chwain were waiting for them, with fangs out,
0:11:22 > 0:11:26because they hadn't had a drop of blood since Saturday afternoon.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29- What a place to work!- Absolutely. Fair play to them.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32- Tough men.- Hogia go iawn!
0:11:32 > 0:11:36MUSIC
0:11:39 > 0:11:43'Before heading down to the valley, Ceri is keen to take a detour
0:11:43 > 0:11:48'along a remarkable section of tramway dug out of the hillside,
0:11:48 > 0:11:50'where slate trucks used to trundle along.
0:11:50 > 0:11:57'It ends abruptly above the steepest incline of any quarry in North Wales.'
0:11:59 > 0:12:02Here we are at the end of the Rhosydd tramway,
0:12:02 > 0:12:06but the beginning of the Rhosydd incline.
0:12:06 > 0:12:08'That is steep!'
0:12:08 > 0:12:13- What happened here?- This is where the wagons would have ended up.
0:12:13 > 0:12:15They would have come from the quarry.
0:12:15 > 0:12:19If you look to the right, this is the drum house.
0:12:19 > 0:12:22It is 55 feet above the incline.
0:12:22 > 0:12:25You can still see some of the cable.
0:12:25 > 0:12:29The wagons would have been winched down one at a time.
0:12:29 > 0:12:35One would have been brought up at the same time to counter balance the wagons.
0:12:35 > 0:12:39- It's mind blowing, really.- It is an amazing feat of engineering.
0:12:39 > 0:12:44- And a huge drop down there.- They think it's about 700 to 800 feet.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48Can you imagine what it must have been like working up here?
0:12:48 > 0:12:51I can't. I don't think any of us could imagine what it was like.
0:12:51 > 0:12:54In all kinds of weather!
0:12:54 > 0:12:59The brakesman would be sitting there in his shelter, which he'd be grateful for.
0:12:59 > 0:13:03So, all the rain and gales would have battered this side.
0:13:03 > 0:13:07He would go in there and tuck himself away.
0:13:09 > 0:13:12'We now retrace our steps to join the Quarryman's Path
0:13:12 > 0:13:14'and then the Blaencwm Incline,
0:13:14 > 0:13:17'which takes the tramway to the valley floor.
0:13:17 > 0:13:20'The building at the bottom of this incline used to be
0:13:20 > 0:13:24'the hydro electric power station for Croesor Quarry.
0:13:24 > 0:13:29'It was built by Moses Kellow, manager and engineer to the quarries.
0:13:29 > 0:13:32'By all accounts, he was a bit of a genius.
0:13:32 > 0:13:34'A man way ahead of his time.'
0:13:34 > 0:13:40In 1904, one of the first things he did was build Blaencwm power station.
0:13:40 > 0:13:45He brought electricity to the quarry, but also to the village of Croesor.
0:13:45 > 0:13:49The chapel in Croesor were offered electricity,
0:13:49 > 0:13:55but they thought it was the work of the devil as they thought it was too much like lightning.
0:13:55 > 0:13:59'I bet Moses Kellow would be very proud to know the turbine
0:13:59 > 0:14:06'has been renovated and now supplies power to the National Grid.'
0:14:06 > 0:14:11Here we are at Bryn. It was Moses Kellow's house.
0:14:11 > 0:14:14It was the finest all electric house in North Wales.
0:14:14 > 0:14:18- This was before World War I. - Nice place to live.
0:14:18 > 0:14:19Absolutely.
0:14:19 > 0:14:25I notice all, or most of the houses, are painted blue. Is there a reason?
0:14:25 > 0:14:27That's Portmeirion Blue, if you like.
0:14:27 > 0:14:31It's the patent colour of the Brondanw Estate.
0:14:31 > 0:14:35Every house under the ownership of the estate is painted that colour.
0:14:35 > 0:14:40MUSIC
0:14:41 > 0:14:45Here we are, the sun is finally out and we're at Caffi Croesor.
0:14:45 > 0:14:49- It's the end of our walk. - Thanks for being my guide, Ceri.
0:14:49 > 0:14:54- Diolch yn fawr.- It's been a pleasure to get to the top of Cnicht.
0:14:54 > 0:14:57- Really good.- Cool.- Right. Time for a cup of tea and a slice of cake.
0:14:57 > 0:15:02- Excellent, if it's on you. - You're paying.- No, you're paying.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11'If you fancy trying one of the walks from this series,
0:15:11 > 0:15:15'then go to bbc.co.uk/wales
0:15:15 > 0:15:18'and take a look at our Weatherman Walking website.
0:15:18 > 0:15:20'It has everything you need.
0:15:20 > 0:15:23'Detailed route information for each walk,
0:15:23 > 0:15:26'photos that we took along the way
0:15:26 > 0:15:29'and walking maps for you to print off and follow.
0:15:29 > 0:15:32'For the next walk in this programme, we head down south
0:15:32 > 0:15:37'to the opposite corner of Wales and a flatter landscape.
0:15:37 > 0:15:39'Our very own Low Country.'
0:15:43 > 0:15:47On this walk, we're going to explore a unique, unusual land.
0:15:47 > 0:15:49A slightly strange, but wonderful world
0:15:49 > 0:15:52of gouts, reens, grips and furrows.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56Somewhere, perhaps, that sounds a bit more like Middle Earth
0:15:56 > 0:15:59than a little-known corner of Southeast Wales.
0:15:59 > 0:16:02A place that exists, at times, below sea level.
0:16:02 > 0:16:06'This is part of an area known as the Gwent Levels.
0:16:06 > 0:16:08'One of only six lowland areas
0:16:08 > 0:16:11'reclaimed in a similar way in the whole of Britain
0:16:11 > 0:16:14'and the largest of its kind in Wales.'
0:16:14 > 0:16:16If it wasn't for this massive sea wall,
0:16:16 > 0:16:21this would look more like that.
0:16:25 > 0:16:28'My guide for the day is a wizard of these wetlands.
0:16:28 > 0:16:30'Someone who's studied, researched
0:16:30 > 0:16:33'and written about this fascinating place.
0:16:33 > 0:16:36'This is archaeologist Rick Turner.
0:16:36 > 0:16:38'My Gandalf of the Gwent Levels.'
0:16:42 > 0:16:44- Morning, Rick. - Morning, Derek.
0:16:44 > 0:16:47- Pleased to meet you. - And you.- Where are we going today?
0:16:47 > 0:16:50We'll explore the marvellous landscape of the Caldicot Level.
0:16:50 > 0:16:54To start with, we'll walk out to the island of Goldcliff,
0:16:54 > 0:16:57stand on the sea wall and see how this remarkable landscape works.
0:16:57 > 0:17:01I think we'd better be quick. There's rain on the way.
0:17:01 > 0:17:06- That's very useful. Rain is the story of this landscape, as well.- OK.
0:17:08 > 0:17:12'Just a few miles east of Newport, our walk will take us cross-country
0:17:12 > 0:17:13'from Goldcliff to Redwick.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16'But starting with a detour down to the sea.
0:17:16 > 0:17:19'Returning to Goldcliff village and church,
0:17:19 > 0:17:22'we then head over fields and footbridges to Whitson
0:17:22 > 0:17:25'and end the walk at the village of Redwick.
0:17:25 > 0:17:27'The weather might be a bit blowy,
0:17:27 > 0:17:29'but at least it's flat all the way.'
0:17:39 > 0:17:41So, here we are, standing right on the sea wall.
0:17:41 > 0:17:44Yes. And we're looking towards the Island of Goldcliff.
0:17:44 > 0:17:47This is a rocky island that always stood above the waves
0:17:47 > 0:17:50and above the marshes that surrounded it.
0:17:50 > 0:17:55And it's been a focus of settlement for many thousands of years.
0:17:55 > 0:17:58You said it's an island, but it's not now. It used to be.
0:17:58 > 0:18:01Yes. The sea walls have run up to it,
0:18:01 > 0:18:03so the land to our left has been reclaimed.
0:18:03 > 0:18:08And we can see out to the right, the sea is held back by the sea wall.
0:18:08 > 0:18:12So, if this wasn't here, all this water
0:18:12 > 0:18:15would be several miles inland?
0:18:15 > 0:18:17We're close to high tide today.
0:18:17 > 0:18:19And I think if you looked across here,
0:18:19 > 0:18:22you'd have four or five feet, a metre and a half modern,
0:18:22 > 0:18:24across all the land that we can see.
0:18:24 > 0:18:27Some perhaps two or three kilometres inland.
0:18:27 > 0:18:30So, who actually built the sea wall, then?
0:18:30 > 0:18:33The first sea wall here was built by the Romans.
0:18:33 > 0:18:37There's a famous carved stone found just a few hundred metres down there
0:18:37 > 0:18:40which records the Roman legionaries from Caerleon
0:18:40 > 0:18:43building a sea wall in this area.
0:18:43 > 0:18:45What happened after that?
0:18:45 > 0:18:49In 1113AD, the Norman lord of Caerleon
0:18:49 > 0:18:52granted the Benedictines a priory,
0:18:52 > 0:18:55which they built on the Island of Goldcliff.
0:18:55 > 0:18:58He also granted them all this land that surrounds us.
0:18:58 > 0:19:02They had to win it back from the sea, cultivate it and farm it.
0:19:02 > 0:19:06'We retrace our steps back towards Goldcliff village
0:19:06 > 0:19:09'and pass alongside Newport Wetlands Reserve.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12'This land was deliberately flooded 11 years ago
0:19:12 > 0:19:14'to replace the mudflats and feeding grounds
0:19:14 > 0:19:18'that were lost when the Cardiff Bay barrage was built.
0:19:18 > 0:19:21'Fortunately, the birds seem to have found their way here.'
0:19:22 > 0:19:24If you look out through the hide here,
0:19:24 > 0:19:27you get some impression of what the land would've been like
0:19:27 > 0:19:29before it was reclaimed.
0:19:29 > 0:19:33You've got a mixture of reed beds, open water and a host of wildlife -
0:19:33 > 0:19:36ducks, gulls and waders.
0:19:36 > 0:19:39So this gives you some feel of what it would've been
0:19:39 > 0:19:41before the sea walls were erected.
0:19:41 > 0:19:44- I should've brought my binoculars. - Yes.
0:19:50 > 0:19:53We're walking along this wide open path here now.
0:19:53 > 0:19:57On our left is a freshwater ditch.
0:19:57 > 0:20:01Yes. This is a drove way that took the cattle.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04They had to marshall them and move them through this landscape.
0:20:04 > 0:20:09From the priory, towards the village where we're going next.
0:20:09 > 0:20:13And alongside this drove way is what they call locally a reen.
0:20:13 > 0:20:16- A reen?- A reen. It's a special type of ditch.
0:20:16 > 0:20:22It collects all the water off the fields, out of the field ditches
0:20:22 > 0:20:25and then takes it across the landscape and out into the sea.
0:20:27 > 0:20:31Now, how on earth do you get water out to the sea
0:20:31 > 0:20:35when there's a big wall in the way, stopping the sea from coming in?
0:20:35 > 0:20:38Well, I'm sure Gandalf, my guide, knows how
0:20:38 > 0:20:41and I suspect the Romans did, as well.
0:20:42 > 0:20:46I've brought you over the sea wall now to show you this structure here.
0:20:46 > 0:20:50- What's it called? - Well, it's called a gout, locally.
0:20:50 > 0:20:53- A gout?- A gout. When we look down, you can see there's a flap.
0:20:53 > 0:20:57At high tide this morning, it would have been about here.
0:20:57 > 0:21:00You can see the debris on the steps.
0:21:00 > 0:21:03So when the high tide's here, it presses the flap shut
0:21:03 > 0:21:05and stops the water coming out,
0:21:05 > 0:21:07but it also stops the sea invading the land.
0:21:07 > 0:21:12But now the tide's dropped quite a lot, you can see the fresh water
0:21:12 > 0:21:16running out from behind the flap and out to sea.
0:21:16 > 0:21:19- A very clever idea.- Who thought of it in the first place?
0:21:19 > 0:21:22I think the Romans must've had the same system
0:21:22 > 0:21:24because they had the same problem.
0:21:24 > 0:21:29It's an idea I'm sure was used for centuries and is still used today.
0:21:29 > 0:21:31It's still highly effective today,
0:21:31 > 0:21:342,000 years after it was probably first used in this location.
0:21:34 > 0:21:39But no matter how effective our man-made structures might be,
0:21:39 > 0:21:42there are times in history when there is no holding back
0:21:42 > 0:21:44the destructive forces of nature.
0:21:44 > 0:21:49In 2004, we all learnt the meaning of the word tsunami.
0:21:49 > 0:21:53But most people don't know we had our own version of one here.
0:21:53 > 0:21:57I've brought you to the Church of Saint Mary in Goldcliff.
0:21:57 > 0:21:59We're about a kilometre back from the sea wall.
0:21:59 > 0:22:02In this church is a plaque that records
0:22:02 > 0:22:06the great flood of 20th January, 1607,
0:22:06 > 0:22:09which affected the whole of the Caldicot Level.
0:22:09 > 0:22:13But a huge area, all the way from Carmarthenshire,
0:22:13 > 0:22:17up the Severn Estuary, right down the Somerset side into North Devon.
0:22:17 > 0:22:20But here on the wall, this little brass plaque
0:22:20 > 0:22:23shows you the height the water reached on that day.
0:22:23 > 0:22:27Do we know what caused the flood? Some people think it was a tsunami
0:22:27 > 0:22:30and others think it was a storm surge of the Bristol Channel.
0:22:30 > 0:22:34The fact that the tide on the morning of that day
0:22:34 > 0:22:38reached a height nine foot higher than it did in the evening
0:22:38 > 0:22:40suggests some very unusual event
0:22:40 > 0:22:43which might mean it could've been a tsunami.
0:22:43 > 0:22:47Reports were that over 2,000 people drowned.
0:22:47 > 0:22:50It was a national disaster, a national event
0:22:50 > 0:22:53that everybody took an interest in.
0:22:53 > 0:22:55It's a sad farewell to this church, isn't it?
0:22:55 > 0:22:58It certainly is, yes.
0:23:06 > 0:23:08What do we have here, then, Rick?
0:23:08 > 0:23:11We're looking up a reen here.
0:23:11 > 0:23:13But it's being kept at an artificial level
0:23:13 > 0:23:16by a dam-like structure called a stank.
0:23:16 > 0:23:18- A stank? - A stank.
0:23:18 > 0:23:21And the reason they keep the water up is that in the summer,
0:23:21 > 0:23:25it allows the animals to come down and drink from the stream.
0:23:25 > 0:23:27Who's in charge of the stank, then?
0:23:27 > 0:23:30In the old days, it was the Commissioner of Sewers.
0:23:32 > 0:23:36- A bit smelly, is he? - No. He's had a good wash since.
0:23:41 > 0:23:45Being all on the flat, it's so different and unusual
0:23:45 > 0:23:48to be on a walk without any panoramic views or vistas.
0:23:48 > 0:23:50You're never looking down at anything.
0:23:51 > 0:23:53As we head off across farmland,
0:23:53 > 0:23:57the route now becomes a bit of an orienteering course.
0:23:57 > 0:23:59Gates and bridges are like control points
0:23:59 > 0:24:02that we try to spot in the far hedgerow.
0:24:02 > 0:24:04These are our exits from each field.
0:24:07 > 0:24:10So, what have we got here, Rick? It's not a gout, I know that.
0:24:10 > 0:24:14But is it a reen, pill, gripe or stank?
0:24:14 > 0:24:16It's none of those, Derek. It's something new.
0:24:16 > 0:24:19It may look the same, but it's subtly different.
0:24:19 > 0:24:22See how the water is clear and it's running?
0:24:22 > 0:24:24So, is it coming down off the hills?
0:24:24 > 0:24:28Yes. It's a stream that drains the hills we can see in the distance,
0:24:28 > 0:24:32then they've got to get all this running freshwater across the levels
0:24:32 > 0:24:36and out to the sea without it flooding the land to either side.
0:24:36 > 0:24:40So on the side of this, this is called the Monk's Ditch,
0:24:40 > 0:24:43this is the edge of the priory, they've had to build little banks
0:24:43 > 0:24:46to keep this water from flowing out to either side.
0:24:46 > 0:24:49So it's something very different, Derek.
0:24:49 > 0:24:51- And it all makes sense. - It does. Shall we keep going?
0:25:03 > 0:25:07We've come onto a Tarmac road now. Where's this taking us?
0:25:07 > 0:25:09We're walking through the village of Whitson.
0:25:09 > 0:25:11We've left the early reclamation,
0:25:11 > 0:25:15which we associated with Goldcliff Priory,
0:25:15 > 0:25:16crossed the Monk's Ditch,
0:25:16 > 0:25:19and we're now into what we call the back fen.
0:25:19 > 0:25:23Lowered land and settled at a later date.
0:25:23 > 0:25:26Is this land different to this side of the road?
0:25:26 > 0:25:29Yes. It's a little bit lower and much peatier and wetter.
0:25:29 > 0:25:32So they reclaimed it later in time.
0:25:32 > 0:25:35What we've got here is a village
0:25:35 > 0:25:40with houses at the front of long, narrow plots that run away from us.
0:25:40 > 0:25:43So you've got a house and a plot.
0:25:43 > 0:25:46A house and a plot. A house and a plot.
0:25:46 > 0:25:49- So it's all regular.- Very regular. It seems to have been planted.
0:25:49 > 0:25:51They're very similar to villages
0:25:51 > 0:25:54you find in the lowlands of Flanders and Holland.
0:25:54 > 0:25:59It's possible the people who settled here came from those countries.
0:26:00 > 0:26:02There's a nice little orchard here.
0:26:02 > 0:26:05There's a tradition of cider making in Monmouthshire.
0:26:05 > 0:26:07It's a tradition people are trying to bring back to life.
0:26:07 > 0:26:10And a lovely church, as well.
0:26:10 > 0:26:13Yes. A nice little church associated with the priory on Goldcliff.
0:26:13 > 0:26:17It's probably 12th Century in origin and still in use.
0:26:27 > 0:26:29I can see small depressions in this field.
0:26:29 > 0:26:31Is that part of the drainage system?
0:26:31 > 0:26:35Yes. Another word to get used to, Derek. These are grips.
0:26:35 > 0:26:38- Grips?- Grips. They're little hand-dug ditches
0:26:38 > 0:26:41to drain the fields into the ditches.
0:26:41 > 0:26:45So it's just a little bit of drainage to take the surface water away
0:26:45 > 0:26:49into the ditches, off to the reens and out to the sea.
0:26:51 > 0:26:54'This could easily be made into a circular walk
0:26:54 > 0:26:56'by heading down to the sea wall from here
0:26:56 > 0:26:58'and then back to Goldcliff.
0:26:58 > 0:27:03'But today, the quaint old village of Redwick is our journey's end.'
0:27:03 > 0:27:05It's a really interesting village.
0:27:05 > 0:27:08It's as if it's come from the Midlands and been dropped
0:27:08 > 0:27:10on the very edge of Wales.
0:27:10 > 0:27:14It's three streets built in a triangle with cottages down each side
0:27:14 > 0:27:16and the church in the centre.
0:27:16 > 0:27:20Except it was an English Marcher lord who planted this village here
0:27:20 > 0:27:22probably in the 12th or 13th Century.
0:27:22 > 0:27:25So he was bringing something familiar to him
0:27:25 > 0:27:28and putting it in his new settlement here in Wales.
0:27:28 > 0:27:31It's Jamie Owen's old car.
0:27:38 > 0:27:44This mark shows how high the Great Flood reached in 1607.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47'Next to the church, on the village green,
0:27:47 > 0:27:48'is a bit of a hobbit house.
0:27:48 > 0:27:53'A curious little open-air museum that doubles as a bus shelter.
0:27:53 > 0:27:58'Built by an eccentric local chap to house historical artefacts.'
0:27:59 > 0:28:03This is a cider press. The apples would be in a big square bundle,
0:28:03 > 0:28:07press down and the apple juice comes out into this semi-circular bowl.
0:28:07 > 0:28:11So you could have a pint of cider while you wait for a bus.
0:28:11 > 0:28:12- If you were lucky. - Makes sense!
0:28:12 > 0:28:17And there's some particularly interesting notices on the wall.
0:28:18 > 0:28:20Right. That's the end of our walk.
0:28:20 > 0:28:24I've learnt all about grips, gouts, pills and stanks.
0:28:24 > 0:28:27So, am I now a full member of the Fellowship of the Reen?
0:28:27 > 0:28:30Yes. Why don't we celebrate with a pint of cider?
0:28:30 > 0:28:32Sounds good to me. I'll buy the peanuts.
0:28:40 > 0:28:42Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:28:42 > 0:28:44E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk