0:00:46 > 0:00:50If, like me, you've heard of Under Milk Wood and The Boathouse,
0:00:50 > 0:00:52but don't know a whole lot more about Dylan Thomas,
0:00:52 > 0:00:57then one of our walks today will be a delightful voyage of discovery.
0:00:57 > 0:01:00We are going to walk in the footsteps of the poet
0:01:00 > 0:01:05around the Carmarthenshire coastline and the lovely town of Laugharne.
0:01:05 > 0:01:10But our first walk is up in the foothills of the Cambrian Mountains,
0:01:10 > 0:01:14around a 200-year-old tourist playground of woods,
0:01:14 > 0:01:17waterfalls and riverside trails.
0:01:20 > 0:01:23And our patch of heaven is the Hafod Estate,
0:01:23 > 0:01:25just up the road from Devil's Bridge,
0:01:25 > 0:01:27slap bang in the middle of Wales.
0:01:30 > 0:01:32The Hafod Estate was designed
0:01:32 > 0:01:36in what is known as the picturesque style by its owner, Thomas Johnes,
0:01:36 > 0:01:38in the late 18th century,
0:01:38 > 0:01:42and became a big attraction for early tourists to Wales.
0:01:42 > 0:01:46Paths were created with twists and turns,
0:01:46 > 0:01:49tunnels and arches, to surprise visitors
0:01:49 > 0:01:52with a picture-perfect view of a natural scene.
0:01:53 > 0:01:57Sadly, the mansion Thomas Johnes built as a centrepiece
0:01:57 > 0:02:00to his rural idyll is gone - all that's left
0:02:00 > 0:02:05is a pile of rubble and a ghostly outline in the fields.
0:02:05 > 0:02:08But the walks he created have been restored,
0:02:08 > 0:02:12allowing today's visitors a glimpse of a special landscape.
0:02:14 > 0:02:18'In charge of this landscape is the Hafod Trust's Estate Manager,
0:02:18 > 0:02:22'David Newnham, and he's volunteered to guide me around the walk today.
0:02:22 > 0:02:24'Originally from Selby in Yorkshire,
0:02:24 > 0:02:27'David studied Countryside Management at Aberystwyth
0:02:27 > 0:02:30'and first came to Hafod as part of his course.
0:02:30 > 0:02:34'He lives in a cottage on the estate, but as a change from being in the countryside,
0:02:34 > 0:02:38'he enjoys surfing in Cardigan Bay.'
0:02:40 > 0:02:42- Morning, David.- Hi, Derek.
0:02:42 > 0:02:45'Firmly on dry land today, David will be taking me
0:02:45 > 0:02:48'along colour-coded routes that guide walkers around
0:02:48 > 0:02:50'the 18th-century restored paths.'
0:02:54 > 0:02:57Just down the road from the village of Cwmystwyth,
0:02:57 > 0:03:01our walk starts from the Forestry Commission car park.
0:03:01 > 0:03:03We'll then be calling in at Hafod Church,
0:03:03 > 0:03:06before dropping down and following the Ystwyth River
0:03:06 > 0:03:10to the site of the old mansion. From there, we cross the valley
0:03:10 > 0:03:14to reach a long level section of the Gentleman's Walk.
0:03:14 > 0:03:17A short detour takes us to the fascinating Cavern Cascade
0:03:17 > 0:03:22before joining the Ystwyth Gorge Walk back to the start.
0:03:22 > 0:03:23A five and a half mile walk,
0:03:23 > 0:03:27snaking around Thomas Johnes' restored paths.
0:03:28 > 0:03:32'Once one of the most visited places in Wales, sadly, by the 1940s,
0:03:32 > 0:03:37'Hafod was largely forgotten by the outside world.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40'The carefully nurtured landscape and choreographed walks
0:03:40 > 0:03:42'had virtually disappeared from view
0:03:42 > 0:03:45'after years of neglect which soon followed
0:03:45 > 0:03:50'the tragic death of Mariamne, Thomas Johnes' only child.'
0:03:50 > 0:03:52This is Hafod Church, which was restored
0:03:52 > 0:03:55back in the 1930s after a devastating fire.
0:03:55 > 0:03:58So this is where Mariamne was buried,
0:03:58 > 0:04:02and subsequently her mother and then her father.
0:04:03 > 0:04:07In the 1932 fire, tragically,
0:04:07 > 0:04:11a monument inside made of marble which depicted Thomas Johnes
0:04:11 > 0:04:14and his wife at their daughter's deathbed was shattered
0:04:14 > 0:04:18when the cold water was poured all over the boiling hot marble.
0:04:20 > 0:04:25And over here, Derek, is what remains of the marble monument.
0:04:25 > 0:04:28As you can see, it's completely destroyed.
0:04:28 > 0:04:32- There's not a lot left, is there? - No, that's right.
0:04:32 > 0:04:36You can see Thomas Johnes' face at the bottom right hand side.
0:04:36 > 0:04:38With a big crack through the middle of it.
0:04:38 > 0:04:41And there is a picture there of two firemen
0:04:41 > 0:04:44- standing in front of the monument. - Yeah.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48And at the bottom, a photograph of what it looked like originally.
0:04:50 > 0:04:52Telling a sad tale, really.
0:04:52 > 0:04:56'The tragic loss of their beloved daughter was the beginning of the end
0:04:56 > 0:05:00'of Johnes' love affair with Hafod, and the end of his romantic dream.
0:05:00 > 0:05:03'These days, the estate is owned by the Forestry Commission,
0:05:03 > 0:05:07'who planted these fir trees back in the 1950s.
0:05:07 > 0:05:10'But now, they are working with the Hafod Trust to thin out
0:05:10 > 0:05:14'the conifers and plant native deciduous trees.
0:05:14 > 0:05:17'Their aim is to get the landscape close to how it used to be.'
0:05:17 > 0:05:19So this is Peiran Falls,
0:05:19 > 0:05:24one of Thomas Johnes' main viewpoints on the Lady's Walk.
0:05:24 > 0:05:25If the river was in spate,
0:05:25 > 0:05:28if we'd had loads of rain like we did this morning,
0:05:28 > 0:05:32the water actually cascades down both sides of this rocky island and it looks stunning.
0:05:32 > 0:05:36- You get plenty of rain in this area, don't you?- Well, exactly!
0:05:36 > 0:05:39We'll just head down here, Derek, and I'll show you
0:05:39 > 0:05:43where Thomas Johnes intended his visitors to view the falls from.
0:05:45 > 0:05:49This stone structure here is the back wall of what
0:05:49 > 0:05:52we now refer to as the Rustic Alcove.
0:05:52 > 0:05:54What would have been a stone structure,
0:05:54 > 0:05:59actually designed intentionally to hide this view from visitors
0:05:59 > 0:06:03coming from this direction, until they got to the alcove
0:06:03 > 0:06:07and they would be stunned by this magnificent view of the falls.
0:06:07 > 0:06:14- His way of bringing this place to life?- Trying to enhance the experience of the natural scenery.
0:06:14 > 0:06:17- Kind of a theme park of the 18th century.- That's right, yeah.
0:06:19 > 0:06:20What have you got there?
0:06:20 > 0:06:23This is actually a painting,
0:06:23 > 0:06:26and you can see this view that Johnes intended people to see.
0:06:26 > 0:06:30Here, the river is in full flood, so it's cascading down both sides.
0:06:30 > 0:06:34Looks like us two, looking at the waterfall.
0:06:34 > 0:06:35We should get some cowboy hats!
0:06:35 > 0:06:38MUSIC: "Rawhide"
0:06:38 > 0:06:41# Keep rollin', rollin', rollin'
0:06:41 > 0:06:43# Though the streams are swollen
0:06:43 > 0:06:47# Keep them dogies rollin' Rawhide... #
0:06:47 > 0:06:50'This path along the banks of the River Ystwyth
0:06:50 > 0:06:52'is part of the Lady's Walk -
0:06:52 > 0:06:57'created by Johnes as gentler outing suitable for the well-to-do ladies
0:06:57 > 0:07:00'in their crinoline dresses.'
0:07:00 > 0:07:02This is the Trust's next big restoration project.
0:07:02 > 0:07:07This is Jane Johnes' flower garden, Thomas Johnes' wife.
0:07:07 > 0:07:09This garden was built for her,
0:07:09 > 0:07:12although it was also intended for visitors to see.
0:07:12 > 0:07:14So it was a big undertaking.
0:07:14 > 0:07:18But making progress, and if I came back here in a couple of years,
0:07:18 > 0:07:22- it would be full of flowers and colour again?- Yeah.
0:07:34 > 0:07:38I think we are coming to a point, Derek, where if we stop here
0:07:38 > 0:07:40and have a look at this painting,
0:07:40 > 0:07:44we can see that back in the late 18th century,
0:07:44 > 0:07:50how it used to look is actually very similar to what it looks like now.
0:07:50 > 0:07:53Which is remarkable, considering ten years ago,
0:07:53 > 0:07:56this was another conifer plantation,
0:07:56 > 0:07:59which has been cleared and restored to open pasture.
0:07:59 > 0:08:01And a few cows in there, as well!
0:08:01 > 0:08:03The cows are there to keep the pasture open,
0:08:03 > 0:08:07nibble down the scrub and preserve Johnes' landscape.
0:08:07 > 0:08:09Fascinating.
0:08:09 > 0:08:12# Ride 'em in, Rawhide! #
0:08:15 > 0:08:18Leaving the river, we now climb up
0:08:18 > 0:08:21to the site of Thomas Johnes' grand house.
0:08:23 > 0:08:27And this is all that's left of the old Hafod mansion.
0:08:27 > 0:08:32The host that Thomas Johnes built here was added to several times
0:08:32 > 0:08:35by successive owners and people realised in the end,
0:08:35 > 0:08:39it was just too much to maintain. After years of trying to find a buyer,
0:08:39 > 0:08:42it was decided they would blow it up with dynamite.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45This is all that's left, just a pile of rubble.
0:08:45 > 0:08:48Yeah, it's a hell of a shame, really. On the other hand,
0:08:48 > 0:08:53there's always a chance it could have fallen into private hands and not been open to public access.
0:08:53 > 0:08:57Then we wouldn't have had these wonderful walks to enjoy.
0:08:57 > 0:08:59- Exactly.- At least we've got those.
0:09:00 > 0:09:04'Now we're off across the Ystwyth River on the way to meet up
0:09:04 > 0:09:10'with Des Marshall for the slightly more challenging Gentleman's Walk.
0:09:10 > 0:09:13'Originally from Manchester, Des has lived in Mid Wales for many years.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17'He's an experienced outdoor pursuits instructor
0:09:17 > 0:09:20'and a writer of walking guidebooks to this area.
0:09:20 > 0:09:22'He's travelled the world, caving and mountaineering,
0:09:22 > 0:09:25'but still enthuses about this particular walk.'
0:09:27 > 0:09:29It's the eccentricity of it all.
0:09:29 > 0:09:33It's been very sympathetically restored
0:09:33 > 0:09:36to Johnes' original format.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39At every corner, you have a different view.
0:09:39 > 0:09:41You get to a corner, there's no view.
0:09:41 > 0:09:45You go down a corner, there's a fantastic panorama. It's marvellous.
0:09:45 > 0:09:50Absolutely superb walk. And anybody who is reasonably fit can do this.
0:09:52 > 0:09:56We've just come to a panoramic view, Derek. Obviously,
0:09:56 > 0:10:00you've got gorgeous views down the Ystwyth Valley,
0:10:00 > 0:10:03but more importantly to Thomas Johnes
0:10:03 > 0:10:05was a brilliant view of his mansion.
0:10:05 > 0:10:09The mansion was described from here by one of his best friends,
0:10:09 > 0:10:13but it was also painted from near this location.
0:10:13 > 0:10:16You can see how similar the landscape is nowadays.
0:10:16 > 0:10:19'But we can also see in this engraving just how impressive
0:10:19 > 0:10:23'Johnes' house was. He chose a prime spot
0:10:23 > 0:10:26'and framed it with the landscaped grounds.'
0:10:37 > 0:10:40'You want to watch your step on the next bit.'
0:10:41 > 0:10:45It's a bit slippery along here, isn't it? A big drop down.
0:10:46 > 0:10:51Wonderful, airy ledge, this. Very airy!
0:10:51 > 0:10:55- It adds to the excitement, walking along here!- Oh, yes.
0:10:55 > 0:10:59- A long way down, though, isn't it?- Oh!
0:11:05 > 0:11:10'The narrow gangway leads us to another of Johnes' surprises -
0:11:10 > 0:11:12'a short tunnel with a deliberate kink in it
0:11:12 > 0:11:15'which suddenly reveals a view across the valley.'
0:11:15 > 0:11:18And from here you can see a monument
0:11:18 > 0:11:20on the other side of the valley to the Duke of Bedford.
0:11:20 > 0:11:24'The 5th Duke of Bedford was a pal of Johnes -
0:11:24 > 0:11:27'a fellow romantic and a kindred spirit.'
0:11:36 > 0:11:39- Another glorious view. - There's so many of them.
0:11:48 > 0:11:52We've just come into the ancient beech woodland.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56Some of these trees possibly date back 150 or even 200 years.
0:11:56 > 0:12:01- Some speculate they were planted during the Johnes era. - That old?- That's right.
0:12:01 > 0:12:05What is interesting is, they used to bunch plant these trees
0:12:05 > 0:12:08so they grew in a picturesque fashion.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10Multiple stems, coming up from the ground.
0:12:10 > 0:12:16- It does add to the variety in the woodland.- It certainly does.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18'A branch in the path takes us up
0:12:18 > 0:12:23'alongside a cascading stream towards another man-made surprise -
0:12:23 > 0:12:28'the Cavern Cascade, which is well worth the effort needed to reach it.
0:12:28 > 0:12:32'But take a torch, and be careful where you place your boots.'
0:12:32 > 0:12:37Just be careful, the rocks are a little bit slippery but not too bad.
0:12:40 > 0:12:47Just take your time, you get round the corner, and it hits you.
0:12:49 > 0:12:54- Oh, wow, look at that! That's amazing.- Absolutely brilliant.
0:12:57 > 0:12:59You get the view
0:12:59 > 0:13:03at the very last minute - this straight tunnel, kink at the end.
0:13:03 > 0:13:09- As you rounded the corner, there was a distinct "wow"!- A big wow!
0:13:09 > 0:13:14So do many people come up to this spot, this far through the cave?
0:13:14 > 0:13:18Well, it seems most of our visitors have taken on shorter walks.
0:13:18 > 0:13:21But most of them aren't making it up here,
0:13:21 > 0:13:26it's mostly local people who come just to see the Cavern Cascade.
0:13:26 > 0:13:29It's a bit of a local secret, really.
0:13:43 > 0:13:48- Thanks very much, Des.- My pleasure, Derek.- Pleasure to meet you.
0:13:48 > 0:13:49'As we say farewell to Des,
0:13:49 > 0:13:53'David and I head along the Ystwyth Gorge path
0:13:53 > 0:13:55'on the last loop of our walk.'
0:14:04 > 0:14:06This is what we call the Gothic Arcade.
0:14:06 > 0:14:09We don't know when it was built exactly.
0:14:09 > 0:14:12The only information they've got is a painting from 1939,
0:14:12 > 0:14:15depicting three arches here, which possibly would have had
0:14:15 > 0:14:18a covered seat behind it, and it was really making
0:14:18 > 0:14:21the most of Johnes' view of his chain bridge, which is fantastic.
0:14:21 > 0:14:23Wonderful, isn't it?
0:14:23 > 0:14:26The narrow gorge here, the water flowing through it,
0:14:26 > 0:14:30and just look at those rocks, how they are being sculpted by the water.
0:14:46 > 0:14:49- Well, we're on the final leg of our walk now, David.- We are, yeah.
0:14:49 > 0:14:52- Thanks for showing me around. - It's been my pleasure.
0:14:52 > 0:14:57Well, I may not be the kind of gentleman Thomas Johnes had in mind
0:14:57 > 0:15:01when he created these walks for his visitors all those years ago,
0:15:01 > 0:15:05but one thing is for sure - I feel very privileged to have
0:15:05 > 0:15:08experienced a trip through the Hafod Estate today.
0:15:08 > 0:15:10It's still truly magical!
0:15:14 > 0:15:17If you fancy trying one of the walks from the series,
0:15:17 > 0:15:21go to bbc.co.uk/weathermanwalking
0:15:21 > 0:15:25and take a look at our all-singing, all-dancing website.
0:15:25 > 0:15:30It has everything you need, from detailed route information for each walk,
0:15:30 > 0:15:32photographs we took along the way
0:15:32 > 0:15:36and walking maps for you to print off and follow.
0:15:36 > 0:15:40For the next walk in this programme we head to coastal Carmarthenshire
0:15:40 > 0:15:45for a poetic walk in and around lovely Laugharne.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49Dylan Thomas's boathouse is world famous,
0:15:49 > 0:15:53attracting people here to Laugharne from all around the globe.
0:15:53 > 0:15:55But there's a lot more to this place than a house,
0:15:55 > 0:15:59which is now a museum, and a gob-smacking view.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03'To show me the walk and tell me about the place is Bob Stevens.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06'Originally from Carmarthen, Bob breeds Welsh Cobs
0:16:06 > 0:16:11'here in Laugharne, where he's lived and farmed for the past 25 years.'
0:16:11 > 0:16:15He's passionate about encouraging others to discover the place
0:16:15 > 0:16:16that captivated Dylan Thomas,
0:16:16 > 0:16:21and recently established a waymarked route called Dylan's Birthday Walk.
0:16:23 > 0:16:24Six miles from St Clears,
0:16:24 > 0:16:29Laugharne sits on the edge of the beautiful unspoilt Taf Estuary
0:16:29 > 0:16:31on the Carmarthenshire coast.
0:16:31 > 0:16:35Starting near the castle, we head off on the first of two loops,
0:16:35 > 0:16:37up through the town to St Martin's church
0:16:37 > 0:16:40before joining the coastal path along the estuary.
0:16:40 > 0:16:44Then past the castle again, up onto Sir John's Hill
0:16:44 > 0:16:47and back down to the start.
0:16:47 > 0:16:50A four-and a half mile walk through both town and country.
0:16:52 > 0:16:55- Hello, Bob, nice to meet you. - Welcome to Laugharne,
0:16:55 > 0:16:57- Dylan Thomas country. - Yes, I know this guy here,
0:16:57 > 0:17:01but there's a lot more to Laugharne, isn't there?
0:17:01 > 0:17:05- Yes. Let's explore it, let's begin at the beginning.- OK.
0:17:05 > 0:17:06Cue Richard Burton!
0:17:06 > 0:17:09- BURTON:- To begin at the beginning.
0:17:11 > 0:17:14It is Spring, moonless night in the small town,
0:17:14 > 0:17:17starless and bible-black,
0:17:17 > 0:17:20the cobblestreets silent and the hunched, courters'-and-rabbits' wood
0:17:20 > 0:17:25limping invisible down to the sloeblack, slow, black,
0:17:25 > 0:17:29crowblack, fishingboat-bobbing sea.
0:17:31 > 0:17:35We're coming up to Laugharne Castle, on the right.
0:17:35 > 0:17:38Originally known as Abercorran Castle.
0:17:38 > 0:17:42'Most visitors to Laugharne probably know about its links
0:17:42 > 0:17:47'with Dylan Thomas, but the sight of this rather impressive castle
0:17:47 > 0:17:49'may be a bit of a surprise.
0:17:49 > 0:17:53'The towering walls you can see today have been rebuilt over the centuries
0:17:53 > 0:17:57'and consist of a 13th-century Norman castle
0:17:57 > 0:17:59'later converted to a Tudor mansion.
0:18:04 > 0:18:08'Laugharne is one of the oldest self-governing townships in Britain,
0:18:08 > 0:18:12'with Laugharne Corporation being one of only two surviving from mediaeval times.
0:18:12 > 0:18:16'The institution goes back over 700 years,
0:18:16 > 0:18:19'to a charter granted to the town in 1297.
0:18:19 > 0:18:23'The inhabitants still benefit from the land and property
0:18:23 > 0:18:25'owned by the Corporation.
0:18:25 > 0:18:27'The head is called the Portreeve.
0:18:27 > 0:18:30'Meet the current man at the top, Terry O'Toole -
0:18:30 > 0:18:32'the Boris Johnson of the Corporation.'
0:18:32 > 0:18:34- Good morning, sir. - Pleased to meet you.
0:18:34 > 0:18:37So what does it mean to the town to have the corporation,
0:18:37 > 0:18:41to have you, the Portreeve, as the head?
0:18:41 > 0:18:43I think the town are very fortunate
0:18:43 > 0:18:47and they see themselves as very fortunate having the corporation.
0:18:47 > 0:18:50Having me personally as the head, I'm not sure,
0:18:50 > 0:18:53but having a Portreeve is important as well.
0:18:53 > 0:18:57Because it's all part of the corporation, part of the tradition
0:18:57 > 0:18:59and customs of the town.
0:18:59 > 0:19:02I've got to ask about the wonderful chain you're wearing.
0:19:02 > 0:19:04It's made of gold, and seashells.
0:19:04 > 0:19:06They're cockle shells.
0:19:06 > 0:19:10Laugharne is based on the cockle industry.
0:19:10 > 0:19:14It was a staple industry in Laugharne for a good many years in the past.
0:19:14 > 0:19:19And in a lot of cases, it was a staple diet for people.
0:19:19 > 0:19:23So we're very proud of our heritage in the cockle industry.
0:19:23 > 0:19:27- It must take a lot of polishing! - It does!- That, not you!- My wife!
0:19:28 > 0:19:30As we walk on through the town,
0:19:30 > 0:19:33it feels like we're following in Dylan's footsteps.
0:19:33 > 0:19:36He spent so much time in this hotel
0:19:36 > 0:19:38he gave out its phone number as his own.
0:19:38 > 0:19:43We're coming up here to the famous Browns Hotel,
0:19:43 > 0:19:46which is associated with Dylan Thomas in a big way.
0:19:46 > 0:19:49It's covered in scaffolding at the moment.
0:19:49 > 0:19:50It's being renovated,
0:19:50 > 0:19:56it'll be done up for the centenary of Dylan's birth in 2014.
0:19:56 > 0:20:00- Hopefully it'll be open well before then.- He used to come here, did he?
0:20:00 > 0:20:06Yeah, he lived in the boathouse in 1949 and onwards.
0:20:06 > 0:20:10And he would wander up here from the writing shed in the mornings.
0:20:10 > 0:20:13And he'd sit in that window there with the landlady,
0:20:13 > 0:20:16and he'd watch all the people going by.
0:20:16 > 0:20:19And it was the influences that he saw there
0:20:19 > 0:20:22and the gossip he learnt of that he put in Under Milk Wood.
0:20:23 > 0:20:27'The ship's clock in the bar says half past 11.
0:20:27 > 0:20:30'Half past 11 is opening time. The hands of the clock
0:20:30 > 0:20:35'have stayed still at half past eleven for 50 years.
0:20:35 > 0:20:40'It is always opening time in the Sailors Arms.'
0:20:41 > 0:20:45'Each year in the spring, Laugharne hosts a three-day arts festival.
0:20:45 > 0:20:48'It's deliberately small-scale, which is just as well
0:20:48 > 0:20:51'because so are some of its venues.
0:20:51 > 0:20:56'Like this surprising old 1930s garage, run by Simon Pugh Jones.'
0:20:56 > 0:21:00- I wasn't expecting this, Simon! - No, not many people do.
0:21:00 > 0:21:05The idea behind the tin shed was that when we decided to build a museum,
0:21:05 > 0:21:08we were going to keep the outside looking as it was in 1933.
0:21:08 > 0:21:12- You've got loads of stuff here. - Mainly 1940s, and mainly military.
0:21:12 > 0:21:14But as the project's developed,
0:21:14 > 0:21:18initially it was just going to be a building full of World War II items.
0:21:18 > 0:21:20But the project's developed now,
0:21:20 > 0:21:23and it's become very much more about the community.
0:21:23 > 0:21:25So it's not just a museum, then?
0:21:25 > 0:21:27No, it's become a venue as well.
0:21:27 > 0:21:31We had Under Milk Wood here back in April, which was fantastic.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33We had a cast of 18 and an audience of 100,
0:21:33 > 0:21:36and the atmosphere was absolutely electric.
0:21:36 > 0:21:40- It was a superb place to have our first event.- Thanks very much, Simon.
0:21:40 > 0:21:43- Pleasure.- I'll have to come back in April for the festival.- Definitely.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50'Dylan Thomas died in New York in 1953.
0:21:50 > 0:21:53'His body, however, was brought home to Laugharne
0:21:53 > 0:21:55'and buried here in St Martin's cemetery.'
0:21:58 > 0:22:01This is Dylan's resting place.
0:22:01 > 0:22:03- Simple cross.- The white cross.
0:22:03 > 0:22:07- Yeah.- And his wife is buried there as well.
0:22:07 > 0:22:11If you were here in 1953, this whole area would have been covered
0:22:11 > 0:22:14with crowds of people, as he was buried in November,
0:22:14 > 0:22:17brought back from America.
0:22:17 > 0:22:20So do many people come here now and visit his grave?
0:22:20 > 0:22:23Yeah, they tend to go to visit the boathouse first of all,
0:22:23 > 0:22:26then they meander through the township.
0:22:26 > 0:22:29You tend to get a lot more Americans, I've noticed, over the years.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32- They come all this way to pay their respects?- Yeah.
0:22:40 > 0:22:44- Well, that's a sign summer's over, Derek.- The swallows?
0:22:44 > 0:22:50Yeah, it looks like they're getting ready to go south. Can't blame them.
0:22:50 > 0:22:52'Heading out of town and over the hill,
0:22:52 > 0:22:56'our route drops down to the beautiful Taf Estuary,
0:22:56 > 0:22:59'along a section that will be part of the Wales Coast Path,
0:22:59 > 0:23:05'an 850-mile continuous trail around the entire Welsh coastline.
0:23:05 > 0:23:08'When it's officially opened, there'll be no excuse
0:23:08 > 0:23:12'for not taking a walk in a beautiful place like this.
0:23:15 > 0:23:21'Further along the estuary, we come to Laugharne's iconic landmark.'
0:23:21 > 0:23:25We're just coming over the top of the world-famous boathouse,
0:23:25 > 0:23:28Dylan's last home.
0:23:28 > 0:23:33He lived here from 1949, to when he sadly died in '53.
0:23:33 > 0:23:35Great place to live.
0:23:35 > 0:23:39Yeah, it inspired him, definitely, in the later poems,
0:23:39 > 0:23:42because he wrote about what he's looking at there.
0:23:42 > 0:23:46- Would you like to look inside? - I think we should.- OK.
0:23:50 > 0:23:54Hey, Bob, nice place to write a poem.
0:23:54 > 0:23:57The house on stilts, as he called it.
0:23:57 > 0:23:59Lovely.
0:24:04 > 0:24:08We're coming up now to Dylan's writing shed.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11This is where he wrote most of his later poems.
0:24:11 > 0:24:13It's very cosy in there, isn't it?
0:24:13 > 0:24:17There's a lovely little fire, you can see one of the empty bottles,
0:24:17 > 0:24:19and you can see the beautiful views
0:24:19 > 0:24:21that are through the windows.
0:24:21 > 0:24:23It's very inspirational spot.
0:24:23 > 0:24:25Well, if you look, it's going out on the estuary,
0:24:25 > 0:24:29over to St John's Hill where we will be going later.
0:24:29 > 0:24:32- And I'd like to take you now in his footsteps.- OK.
0:24:34 > 0:24:37'Now we're going on the route Bob's set up
0:24:37 > 0:24:39'as Dylan's Birthday Walk,
0:24:39 > 0:24:42'a walk that Dylan Thomas describes taking
0:24:42 > 0:24:45'on his 30th birthday in Poem In October.
0:24:46 > 0:24:50'The information boards along the way give you extracts from the poem
0:24:50 > 0:24:53'and tell you a bit about Dylan's life.'
0:24:56 > 0:25:02He begins down in the harbour, with "the mussel pooled and heron priested shore".
0:25:02 > 0:25:05And I found an old photograph back in 1850
0:25:05 > 0:25:08of how this harbour looked at that time.
0:25:08 > 0:25:10It's amazing the difference, isn't it?
0:25:10 > 0:25:13Amazing how much altered over 100 years.
0:25:13 > 0:25:16- It's full of reeds now.- Yeah.
0:25:16 > 0:25:20The photograph is of Dylan when he was in his...18 to 20 years old.
0:25:20 > 0:25:25Because the poem tends to talk about getting older, and your mortality,
0:25:25 > 0:25:30as we walk along, you will see how he ages, photographs of how he ages,
0:25:30 > 0:25:32- along the panels.- Like we all do.
0:25:32 > 0:25:35Like we all do. Even you, Derek!
0:25:35 > 0:25:38'It was my thirtieth year to heaven
0:25:38 > 0:25:41'Woke to my hearing from harbour and neighbour wood
0:25:41 > 0:25:44'And the mussel pooled and the heron
0:25:44 > 0:25:45'Priested shore
0:25:45 > 0:25:48'The morning beckon
0:25:48 > 0:25:51'With water praying and call of seagull and rook
0:25:51 > 0:25:55'And the knock of sailing boats on the net-webbed wall
0:25:55 > 0:25:58'Myself to set foot That second
0:25:58 > 0:26:02'In the still sleeping town and set forth.'
0:26:04 > 0:26:07This is the second section of the poem.
0:26:07 > 0:26:11As you can see, it's placed opposite the castle,
0:26:11 > 0:26:16because it refers in the text, "And the castle as brown as owls."
0:26:16 > 0:26:19And there it is, straight in front of you.
0:26:19 > 0:26:22'Pale rain over the dwindling harbour
0:26:22 > 0:26:25'And over the sea wet church the size of a snail
0:26:25 > 0:26:29With its horns through mist and the castle
0:26:29 > 0:26:31'Brown as owls...'
0:26:36 > 0:26:39We're coming now to the shoulder of the hill,
0:26:39 > 0:26:42and the third panel, his text about the boathouse.
0:26:42 > 0:26:46You can see Dylan, how he's altered, as he's getting older.
0:26:46 > 0:26:50Yeah, he's changed quite a bit compared to the other photograph.
0:26:50 > 0:26:54Well, he was in his 20s then, this was probably taken in 1949, 1950.
0:26:54 > 0:26:56So he's nearer 40 there.
0:27:00 > 0:27:01'It was my thirtieth
0:27:01 > 0:27:05'Year to heaven stood there then in the summer noon
0:27:05 > 0:27:08'Though the town below lay leaved with October blood.'
0:27:08 > 0:27:12"O may my heart's truth Still be sung
0:27:12 > 0:27:15"On this high hill in a year's turning."
0:27:15 > 0:27:18What he's on about is, "I hope to God
0:27:18 > 0:27:22"I'm still going to be alive and kicking in a year's time."
0:27:22 > 0:27:25It's a fundamental feeling for all of us, getting older.
0:27:25 > 0:27:27And that's what they're saying there.
0:27:27 > 0:27:30There's something about saying the words out loud,
0:27:30 > 0:27:32it's almost a spiritual feeling,
0:27:32 > 0:27:36hoping you're going to still be alive in a year's turning.
0:27:36 > 0:27:40That's what I'm hoping to achieve with these panels.
0:27:42 > 0:27:46'It's called the Birthday Walk, and if you come here on your birthday,
0:27:46 > 0:27:49'do the walk and recite a verse of the poem out loud,
0:27:49 > 0:27:54'Bob says he's arranged a bag of chips and a free drink at some local hostelries.
0:27:54 > 0:27:58'Now there's an offer you can't refuse!
0:27:59 > 0:28:02'The last leg of our walk takes us "Over Sir John's Hill"
0:28:02 > 0:28:06'and with such fabulous views in every direction,
0:28:06 > 0:28:10'even I could be moved to pen a few lines up here.'
0:28:13 > 0:28:15Well, walking in Dylan Thomas's footsteps
0:28:15 > 0:28:18really does bring his poetry to life.
0:28:18 > 0:28:22I now have a better understanding of his work
0:28:22 > 0:28:24and the place that inspired him.
0:28:24 > 0:28:28I'm definitely going to come back on my birthday, do the walk again,
0:28:28 > 0:28:31and also claim my free pint and a bag of chips.
0:28:31 > 0:28:33# These boots are made for walking
0:28:33 > 0:28:37# And that's just what they'll do... #
0:28:37 > 0:28:40Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:28:40 > 0:28:43E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk