Holy Mountain and the Holy Well

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0:00:02 > 0:00:04# To say the least

0:00:04 > 0:00:07# Go on, go east, young man... #

0:00:07 > 0:00:13As Elvis Presley once sang, "I'll find adventure while I can

0:00:13 > 0:00:17"To say the least Go on, go east, young man."

0:00:17 > 0:00:19Well, who am I to argue with Elvis?

0:00:19 > 0:00:22# Go east, young man. #

0:00:22 > 0:00:23Are you ready?

0:01:12 > 0:01:16When you're planning a walk in Wales it's easy to think of heading west,

0:01:16 > 0:01:20to a wild and windswept coast or a remote hill,

0:01:20 > 0:01:23but in this programme, we're having none of that.

0:01:23 > 0:01:27We'll show you that west is not always best, with two walks,

0:01:27 > 0:01:30north and south, both within sight of the English border.

0:01:32 > 0:01:35So, later in the programme, we'll be here in Flintshire,

0:01:35 > 0:01:39for a walk along the Dee Estuary in industrial northeast Wales,

0:01:39 > 0:01:43with views of Merseyside and The Wirral across the way.

0:01:43 > 0:01:47But first up, we're taking to the hills overlooking the Monmouthshire

0:01:47 > 0:01:49town of Abergavenny, where we'll be scaling The Skirrid,

0:01:49 > 0:01:53an accessible hill that feels like a proper mountain.

0:01:56 > 0:02:01For one weekend every September, Abergavenny is foodie heaven,

0:02:01 > 0:02:05as 30,000 or so lovers of fine nosh

0:02:05 > 0:02:09flock here for the Glastonbury of food festivals, but this is also

0:02:09 > 0:02:13great walking country, so why not combine the feasting

0:02:13 > 0:02:16with a fabulous walk any time of the year?

0:02:19 > 0:02:22My guide on this walk is David Sheers.

0:02:22 > 0:02:26Retired town planner David loves being outdoors, often helping

0:02:26 > 0:02:30with the horses, but also keeping a close eye on his favourite hill.

0:02:30 > 0:02:35He is a National Trust voluntary warden responsible for The Skirrid

0:02:35 > 0:02:37and this iconic lump in the landscape

0:02:37 > 0:02:39is just a stone's throw from his home.

0:02:39 > 0:02:42We start the walk from this convenient lay-by,

0:02:42 > 0:02:47directly below the hill on the Old Ross road from Abergavenny.

0:02:49 > 0:02:53So, here we are, at the bottom right-hand corner of Wales,

0:02:53 > 0:02:55in Monmouthshire's border country.

0:02:55 > 0:02:58Our round trip takes us up the spine of The Skirrid,

0:02:58 > 0:03:02steeply at first, then more easily along to the summit.

0:03:02 > 0:03:04Dropping down the eastern side of the peak,

0:03:04 > 0:03:06we head down through farmland,

0:03:06 > 0:03:10passing the 15th century Tudor manor, Llanvihangel Court,

0:03:10 > 0:03:14and finish our walk in the village of Llanvihangel Crucorney,

0:03:14 > 0:03:17four miles full of wonderful views.

0:03:22 > 0:03:24What's special about The Skirrid to you?

0:03:24 > 0:03:27Well, The Skirrid has formed a backdrop

0:03:27 > 0:03:30to the views to the back of my house, just south of here,

0:03:30 > 0:03:34but, of course, The Skirrid itself is unique, almost, in the area.

0:03:34 > 0:03:37It's completely isolated from the rest of the Black Mountains

0:03:37 > 0:03:40and so you get panoramic views in all directions, from the top.

0:03:43 > 0:03:45That's a nice-looking bench, David.

0:03:45 > 0:03:47Yes, that was put up this year, in fact,

0:03:47 > 0:03:51to mark the start of the...Beacons Way.

0:03:51 > 0:03:54As you can see, "Bethlehem 152 kilometres".

0:03:54 > 0:03:55About 100 miles?

0:03:55 > 0:03:57It is, indeed, yes, a long way.

0:03:57 > 0:03:59Takes in all the high peaks throughout,

0:03:59 > 0:04:01from east to west, across the Beacons.

0:04:01 > 0:04:03So, who made this, then?

0:04:03 > 0:04:06This was a Welsh sculptor called Robert Jakes, carved this,

0:04:06 > 0:04:10and, as you can see, it outlines the landscape of the area.

0:04:10 > 0:04:13That, in fact, is the Skirrid Fawr, as it says, there,

0:04:13 > 0:04:16and you can see the famous landslip, or notch, in The Skirrid,

0:04:16 > 0:04:19which we'll be looking at later.

0:04:19 > 0:04:22And there's a similar bench near the village of Bethlehem -

0:04:22 > 0:04:26the one in Carmarthenshire, not the one we sing about at Christmas!

0:04:26 > 0:04:30- It's lovely, isn't it?- It is a grand piece of work.- Pretty solid.

0:04:41 > 0:04:44It's lovely walking through here, isn't it? With all the trees.

0:04:44 > 0:04:47It is a very fine bit of mixed woodland, here.

0:04:47 > 0:04:51When the National Trust took it over, it was just dull conifer plantation,

0:04:51 > 0:04:54but now they've gradually clear-felled it and allowed

0:04:54 > 0:04:59the natural regeneration to take place, and so it's very attractive.

0:05:12 > 0:05:15Just look at that wall, there. Absolutely covered in moss!

0:05:15 > 0:05:18Well, of course, this is a lovely example,

0:05:18 > 0:05:21I suppose, of what you would call a temperate rainforest.

0:05:21 > 0:05:22Cos it's so damp here

0:05:22 > 0:05:26and this creates marvellous mosses and lichens.

0:05:29 > 0:05:32Right, here we are then, Derek, it begins to open up a bit

0:05:32 > 0:05:35and just look at that view!

0:05:35 > 0:05:36Fantastic!

0:05:36 > 0:05:39That's a fantastic bit of North Monmouthshire,

0:05:39 > 0:05:42with loads of history and castles in the far distance.

0:05:42 > 0:05:45- Magic, isn't it?- Yeah, look at that.

0:05:45 > 0:05:47And the view is going to get even better from the top.

0:05:47 > 0:05:49Indeed, it does. Come on, then.

0:05:54 > 0:05:57We are finally on the summit ridge,

0:05:57 > 0:06:00at a height of over 1,500 feet,

0:06:00 > 0:06:03though it feels higher, with the ground falling away on all sides.

0:06:07 > 0:06:10You can see right down to the Severn Estuary, in the distance,

0:06:10 > 0:06:14and, of course, nearer to hand, there's Abergavenny right below us.

0:06:18 > 0:06:21The name Skirrid comes from an old Welsh word -

0:06:21 > 0:06:25Ysgyrryd, probably meaning split or cloven.

0:06:25 > 0:06:28Locally, the hill's also known as the Holy Mountain

0:06:28 > 0:06:31and these two rather unimpressive boulders

0:06:31 > 0:06:34are the clue as to its ancient religious past.

0:06:34 > 0:06:38OK, well, here we are, Derek, then, at the entrance to the old chapel

0:06:38 > 0:06:41that used to be here, dedicated to St Michael.

0:06:41 > 0:06:44It dates back from the 10th century, but continued in use right up until

0:06:44 > 0:06:48the mid-1600s and was a place of pilgrimage,

0:06:48 > 0:06:51and, indeed, of worship, by the Catholics,

0:06:51 > 0:06:53including when the Catholics, in fact, were being persecuted

0:06:53 > 0:06:54in the rest of the country.

0:06:54 > 0:06:58- And what a place to have a chapel. To build one here.- Well, indeed.

0:06:58 > 0:07:00But, of course, in all weathers, don't forget that,

0:07:00 > 0:07:04they'd have known it in blizzards, as well as in days like this!

0:07:04 > 0:07:06- Shall we go through? - Right, off we go.

0:07:09 > 0:07:12- And here we are, the top of Skirrid Fawr.- Indeed.

0:07:12 > 0:07:15And you've got a view in every single direction.

0:07:15 > 0:07:17- Fantastic, isn't it?- Amazing spot.

0:07:18 > 0:07:20We're right on the border, here,

0:07:20 > 0:07:23we've got the hills and mountains of Wales to our left

0:07:23 > 0:07:26and, of course, over to the east,

0:07:26 > 0:07:29we've got the much more gentle landscape of England.

0:07:29 > 0:07:32And from here, of course, some well-known landmarks.

0:07:32 > 0:07:35We've got the Sugar Loaf, with its conical peak,

0:07:35 > 0:07:38and the Blorenge to the south, which, together with this mountain,

0:07:38 > 0:07:42forms the three big peaks above Abergavenny.

0:07:42 > 0:07:45- It's a great spot, isn't it? - Can't beat it on a day like today.

0:07:49 > 0:07:52- So, this is the easiest way down off The Skirrid?- Yes, it is.

0:07:52 > 0:07:54Yes, this is the gentle way,

0:07:54 > 0:07:58as opposed to straight down the northern steep slope.

0:07:58 > 0:08:02And it's nice here, isn't it? Looking across at all the farmland.

0:08:02 > 0:08:04The patchwork quilt of fields.

0:08:04 > 0:08:08I love it at this time of year, when you see all the different colours

0:08:08 > 0:08:10of where the harvest has taken place.

0:08:12 > 0:08:14So, we're still on the Beacons Way, then?

0:08:14 > 0:08:19Yes, that's right, we follow it all the way to Llanvihangel Crucorney,

0:08:19 > 0:08:22which you see in the distance, over there.

0:08:24 > 0:08:27Right, here we are, Derek, we go straight on, here,

0:08:27 > 0:08:30but if you wanted to double back to the car park where we started,

0:08:30 > 0:08:34there's a pathway that goes all the way round the edge of The Skirrid,

0:08:34 > 0:08:37back to where we started, but we go straight on here

0:08:37 > 0:08:39to Llanvihangel Crucorney.

0:08:42 > 0:08:45From this side of The Skirrid we can see how the rounded eastern side

0:08:45 > 0:08:49of the hill contrasts with the distinctive concave slope,

0:08:49 > 0:08:53or notch, on the west side. How did this come about?

0:08:53 > 0:08:56Well, there are local myths that offer various

0:08:56 > 0:08:58and interesting explanations.

0:08:58 > 0:09:00One of them was that the split

0:09:00 > 0:09:03and the landslip occurred at the time of the crucifixion

0:09:03 > 0:09:06but another one, going back way in time, I suppose,

0:09:06 > 0:09:11is you got a great giant, probably a Celtic giant, stepped on it

0:09:11 > 0:09:13and a third one is that Noah's Ark

0:09:13 > 0:09:16actually scraped its bottom across the top of it

0:09:16 > 0:09:18but, there we are, who knows?

0:09:18 > 0:09:22- Which one do you prefer?- Oh, I like giants.- I like the giant one.

0:09:22 > 0:09:26In actual fact, its distinct shape was caused by a land slip,

0:09:26 > 0:09:28around the time of the Ice Age.

0:09:28 > 0:09:32That hillock at the bottom just slid down the hillside.

0:09:32 > 0:09:38Civilisation at last and this is the back of Llanvihangel Court

0:09:38 > 0:09:42but what we can see now, in fact, are the stables and the very fine barn.

0:09:42 > 0:09:46- The wooden beams look really old, don't they?- They are, indeed.

0:09:46 > 0:09:47I think they go way back.

0:09:47 > 0:09:52Originally associated with two large estates, so it's particularly big.

0:09:52 > 0:09:54Well, here we are, Derek,

0:09:54 > 0:09:57coming round to the front of this fine old house.

0:09:57 > 0:09:59It's a lovely place, which is, of course, privately owned now,

0:09:59 > 0:10:01but they do have open days.

0:10:01 > 0:10:04But back in the 17th century, it was the Arnold family who lived here,

0:10:04 > 0:10:08who owned the estate right up, included the Skirrid Fawr, as well.

0:10:08 > 0:10:11- Great place to live!- Well, oh, this is a fantastic manor house.

0:10:11 > 0:10:14It's one of the finest in the county, apparently.

0:10:17 > 0:10:19The pub is just up there, a few hundred yards away.

0:10:19 > 0:10:21Ooh, I like the sound of that!

0:10:23 > 0:10:25Well, there's a nice church ahead of us, David.

0:10:25 > 0:10:29Yes, indeed, that's the church in the village of Llanvihangel Crucorney,

0:10:29 > 0:10:31which we're just approaching.

0:10:31 > 0:10:35It's been quite heavily restored, but an ancient foundation.

0:10:39 > 0:10:41We now arrive at the infamous Skirrid Inn,

0:10:41 > 0:10:44reputed to be the oldest pub in Wales.

0:10:46 > 0:10:50You probably noticed, Derek, these very fine mounting blocks.

0:10:50 > 0:10:51What are these doing here?

0:10:51 > 0:10:53Well, they'd have been used, of course,

0:10:53 > 0:10:57for anyone who wanted to get on a horse but, reputedly,

0:10:57 > 0:11:01it goes way back in time, to Owain Glyndwr, apparently.

0:11:01 > 0:11:05Rallied his troops from here, before riding off up towards Pontrilas.

0:11:05 > 0:11:07A bit like this, is it?

0:11:08 > 0:11:11"My kingdom for a horse!"

0:11:11 > 0:11:12Something like that.

0:11:15 > 0:11:17- Shall we go inside?- Love to.

0:11:23 > 0:11:27So this may be one of the oldest pubs in Wales

0:11:27 > 0:11:31and possibly one of the most haunted, as well, David?

0:11:31 > 0:11:32Well, that's what they do say.

0:11:32 > 0:11:35I think that's probably associated with the courtroom upstairs,

0:11:35 > 0:11:39used over many centuries by local justices of the peace.

0:11:42 > 0:11:46They say as many as 182 people were hung from the beam on the staircase,

0:11:46 > 0:11:48there, over those years.

0:11:48 > 0:11:50I'm not surprised there's a few ghosts here!

0:11:50 > 0:11:53I think we'll avoid the staircase on the way out!

0:11:53 > 0:11:57# This town is coming like a ghost town... #

0:12:00 > 0:12:03If you're not easily spooked, this would be a great place to stop off

0:12:03 > 0:12:07at the end of your walk, especially on a cold winter's day,

0:12:07 > 0:12:10when they've got a big roaring fire going.

0:12:10 > 0:12:14But, we're heading back to that foodie heaven they call Abergavenny,

0:12:14 > 0:12:18to replenish the calories we burnt off when climbing the Holy Mountain.

0:12:20 > 0:12:21If you fancy trying this,

0:12:21 > 0:12:29or another one, of the walks from the series go to...

0:12:29 > 0:12:32and take a look at our interactive website.

0:12:32 > 0:12:33It has everything you need,

0:12:33 > 0:12:36from detailed route information for each walk,

0:12:36 > 0:12:39as well as photographs we took along the way,

0:12:39 > 0:12:42and walking maps for you to print off and follow.

0:12:42 > 0:12:45Our next walk is also within sight of England.

0:12:45 > 0:12:48We're going to be right up on the coast of Flintshire,

0:12:48 > 0:12:50exploring the Dee Estuary.

0:12:50 > 0:12:53It's a walk through history and there's even a chance

0:12:53 > 0:12:57for a dip in one of the Seven Wonders of Wales.

0:12:57 > 0:13:01It's not always easy to work out how a town gets its name,

0:13:01 > 0:13:04but here in Holywell there's no excuse.

0:13:04 > 0:13:08Holywell takes its name from the town's major feature -

0:13:08 > 0:13:10the historic St Winefride's Holy Well,

0:13:10 > 0:13:14described as one of the Seven Wonders of Wales.

0:13:14 > 0:13:18It's on the list of things for me to see on our walk today,

0:13:18 > 0:13:21and I need a guide to help show me the way.

0:13:21 > 0:13:24Two guides, in fact. Later in the walk, Karen Rippin,

0:13:24 > 0:13:28Flintshire coastal path ranger, will lead me along the banks

0:13:28 > 0:13:31of the Dee Estuary, where she and her team have been beavering away

0:13:31 > 0:13:35for the past five years, creating this bit of the Wales Coast Path.

0:13:38 > 0:13:40But first, Joanne Graham,

0:13:40 > 0:13:42senior warden for the Greenfield Valley Trust,

0:13:42 > 0:13:47will take me down a wooded glen with a fascinating industrial past.

0:13:51 > 0:13:55The walk starts from a car park, bang in the middle of town.

0:13:55 > 0:13:59- Morning, Jo.- Good morning, Derek, how are you?- Nice to meet you.

0:13:59 > 0:14:02- I'm all right.- And you.- Nice morning for our walk.- It is, indeed.

0:14:03 > 0:14:07So, here we are, now in the top right-hand corner of Wales,

0:14:07 > 0:14:10exploring an area better known for its industry

0:14:10 > 0:14:12than its history and wildlife.

0:14:12 > 0:14:13From the centre of town,

0:14:13 > 0:14:16we take a close look at the holy well, before continuing

0:14:16 > 0:14:21down the Greenfield valley path and on to the banks of the Dee Estuary.

0:14:21 > 0:14:25The coastal path then leads us past saltmarsh, small inlets,

0:14:25 > 0:14:30and old industrial sites to the end of our walk at Flint Castle.

0:14:30 > 0:14:32A pretty flat eight-miler,

0:14:32 > 0:14:35with a regular bus and taxi service back to the start.

0:14:36 > 0:14:40Well, this is a pleasant surprise. A park next to the centre of town.

0:14:40 > 0:14:42This is the old railway line.

0:14:42 > 0:14:45It was used as a route from Chester through to Holyhead.

0:14:45 > 0:14:49The line itself was used to convey passengers and pilgrims

0:14:49 > 0:14:52to Basingwerk Abbey and to St Winefride's Well.

0:14:52 > 0:14:54- And that's where we're going next? - It is, indeed.

0:14:54 > 0:14:58- I might even have a dip in the holy waters.- Well, we shall see.

0:14:59 > 0:15:04In its day, this old railway line was, in fact, the steepest

0:15:04 > 0:15:08passenger railway in Britain, bringing visitors and pilgrims

0:15:08 > 0:15:12bound for the holy well to their destination at St Winefride's Halt.

0:15:17 > 0:15:21Pilgrims still travel here from all over the world,

0:15:21 > 0:15:24to bathe in the healing waters and worship at the shrine

0:15:24 > 0:15:27that's become known as the "Lourdes of Wales".

0:15:27 > 0:15:32But who was Winefride and how did she become a saint?

0:15:32 > 0:15:36St Winefride was a local young maiden who declined the amorous advances

0:15:36 > 0:15:40of a local prince and, as a result, he chopped her head off.

0:15:40 > 0:15:43Her head was then reputed to have rolled all the way down the hill

0:15:43 > 0:15:46and was then picked up by St Beuno,

0:15:46 > 0:15:50who brought it back up to reunite it with her corpse, which was lain here.

0:15:50 > 0:15:54When the head and there corpse were reunited, a spring gushed forth.

0:15:54 > 0:15:58- And you can see the water bubbling away.- It is bubbling away, indeed.

0:15:58 > 0:16:02- And it's not warm?- No, it's not. I'm afraid not today.

0:16:03 > 0:16:07With Winefride's head reunited with her body, she miraculously

0:16:07 > 0:16:12came back to life and lived as a nun for another 22 years.

0:16:12 > 0:16:14This all happened back in the 7th century

0:16:14 > 0:16:19and Winefride has been revered as a saint ever since.

0:16:19 > 0:16:22Her well is now the only place in Britain

0:16:22 > 0:16:27where there's been continuous pilgrimage for over 1,300 years.

0:16:27 > 0:16:31Pilgrims travel thousands of miles to bathe in these holy waters,

0:16:31 > 0:16:33so let's give it a go.

0:16:39 > 0:16:41It's cold!

0:16:41 > 0:16:42Oh!

0:16:42 > 0:16:44HE GASPS

0:16:54 > 0:16:55Very cold.

0:17:04 > 0:17:08Whoa, glad to get back in my Gore-Tex!

0:17:09 > 0:17:11I'm told this is quite an industrial valley

0:17:11 > 0:17:14but there's not much sign of that at the moment, is there?

0:17:14 > 0:17:15Not at the moment

0:17:15 > 0:17:19but we actually have seven scheduled ancient monuments on our site

0:17:19 > 0:17:22and they are cunningly hidden away, off the beaten track,

0:17:22 > 0:17:23behind the trees.

0:17:27 > 0:17:30Oh, wow! I wasn't expecting this, Jo!

0:17:30 > 0:17:32What went on here?

0:17:32 > 0:17:35On this site, the Greenfield Mill site, there was a multitude

0:17:35 > 0:17:40of industries, starting as early as 1776, with the Battery Works.

0:17:40 > 0:17:43They were quite revolutionary, using water power to turn

0:17:43 > 0:17:48water wheels on this site, which, in turn, powered anvils.

0:17:48 > 0:17:51The local people who were employed would have to hold enormous sheets

0:17:51 > 0:17:54of brass and copper, which the anvils would pound,

0:17:54 > 0:17:58and they would, literally, batter them into pots and pan shape.

0:17:58 > 0:18:00Hence the name, the Battery Works.

0:18:00 > 0:18:03- So, it was quite pioneering for its time?- Absolutely, yes.

0:18:03 > 0:18:06I'd say it was at the start of the Industrial Revolution, really.

0:18:07 > 0:18:11However, the Battery Works also has a very poignant history.

0:18:11 > 0:18:14Some of the goods were exported from Liverpool to Africa

0:18:14 > 0:18:16and used to buy slaves,

0:18:16 > 0:18:20who were then taken to America to work in the cotton fields.

0:18:20 > 0:18:22The cotton was then brought back,

0:18:22 > 0:18:26right here to the same valley that exported the copper products,

0:18:26 > 0:18:29for processing in the Lower Cotton Mill.

0:18:29 > 0:18:34So, for a time, this small valley was, until it was abolished in 1807,

0:18:34 > 0:18:38a part of the infamous triangular slave trade.

0:18:38 > 0:18:41The amazing thing about the valley is that all this industry

0:18:41 > 0:18:45was drawn here because of a plentiful water supply,

0:18:45 > 0:18:47which, combined with the steep gradient of the valley,

0:18:47 > 0:18:49allowed a number of large water wheels

0:18:49 > 0:18:52to be used to power all this manufacturing.

0:18:54 > 0:18:58So, without water, none of this industry would have been here?

0:18:58 > 0:19:00No, that's very true.

0:19:00 > 0:19:04Essentially, it powered every single industry that was down the valley

0:19:04 > 0:19:07and, really, they were quite revolutionary,

0:19:07 > 0:19:08and way ahead of their time,

0:19:08 > 0:19:11using one of the easiest sources of renewable energy.

0:19:12 > 0:19:15We've installed one water wheel here, subsequently,

0:19:15 > 0:19:19but, I think, to be able to see all the industries in full swing

0:19:19 > 0:19:21would have been quite spectacular.

0:19:32 > 0:19:35- Well, this walk is full of surprises.- It is, indeed.

0:19:35 > 0:19:37So, here, we have Basinwerk Abbey,

0:19:37 > 0:19:39which was built in around the 12th century.

0:19:39 > 0:19:42It housed Cistercian monks.

0:19:42 > 0:19:45They were, really, the first here to use the water as a source of energy.

0:19:45 > 0:19:49They had grinding mills for their corn, etc.

0:19:49 > 0:19:52So, all this happens hundreds of years before the start

0:19:52 > 0:19:54of the Industrial Revolution?

0:19:54 > 0:19:57Yes, I would think about 600 years before the rest of the industry

0:19:57 > 0:19:58started here in the valley,

0:19:58 > 0:20:02the monks were the first to use water as a renewable energy source.

0:20:04 > 0:20:07Those clever monks were certainly ahead of their time!

0:20:07 > 0:20:11Saying cheerio to Jo, I head off to meet my second guide on this walk

0:20:11 > 0:20:13at Greenfield Dock.

0:20:13 > 0:20:18The beauty of this walk is that you're never too far from the road

0:20:18 > 0:20:21which means that you can do as much or as little of it as you fancy,

0:20:21 > 0:20:23start or finish wherever suits you,

0:20:23 > 0:20:26then hop on to public transport, back to where you started.

0:20:31 > 0:20:34- Hello, Karen!- Hello, Derek, nice to meet you.

0:20:34 > 0:20:38Karen Rippin is the ranger for the coastal path here.

0:20:38 > 0:20:40We meet at the small inlet of Greenfield Dock,

0:20:40 > 0:20:45still a useful shelter for local cockle and flounder fishing boats

0:20:45 > 0:20:48but it wasn't always as quiet as it is today.

0:20:48 > 0:20:53In the 1700s, in its heyday, it was a very busy port indeed,

0:20:53 > 0:20:57as it used to export copper, coal, leather and other produce

0:20:57 > 0:21:01from Greenfield to other parts of the world.

0:21:01 > 0:21:06And then, in the 1900s, of course, we had the pilgrims coming here

0:21:06 > 0:21:10and disembarking, so that they could travel up to St Winefride's Well.

0:21:10 > 0:21:13- So, it's really changed over the years?- Yes, it has.

0:21:26 > 0:21:29This is a very popular area with bird spotters.

0:21:29 > 0:21:31Do walkers put them off, in any way?

0:21:31 > 0:21:35It's true, it's a bird-spotters paradise, the Dee Estuary,

0:21:35 > 0:21:37and, yes, we do need to take care

0:21:37 > 0:21:40when we are actually installing a coastal path.

0:21:40 > 0:21:44We need to consider where high tide roosts are actually located

0:21:44 > 0:21:46but we don't want to stop people coming down

0:21:46 > 0:21:50and enjoying the estuary, because it's such a wonderful place.

0:21:50 > 0:21:54So, we create things called viewpoints and we have one here.

0:21:54 > 0:21:57We're looking along the coast here, down towards Flint.

0:21:57 > 0:22:01Yes, and you can see Flint Bridge in the distance, there,

0:22:01 > 0:22:03and the power station.

0:22:03 > 0:22:06People would say that Flintshire coast has actually been ravaged

0:22:06 > 0:22:08by industry but, I mean, look at this,

0:22:08 > 0:22:11you couldn't get a better view than that anywhere.

0:22:11 > 0:22:12- It's lovely.- Yes.

0:22:22 > 0:22:25So, Derek, as you can see, here, over to the left,

0:22:25 > 0:22:28we've got the oystercatchers there, on the high tide roost.

0:22:28 > 0:22:30And they are not disturbed at all, and that is, basically,

0:22:30 > 0:22:33because the hedgerow behind is actually screening us,

0:22:33 > 0:22:35so it's actually breaking up our silhouettes

0:22:35 > 0:22:37and we're not along the horizon.

0:22:37 > 0:22:39Yeah, I can actually see it working, now,

0:22:39 > 0:22:43- the birds are not being scared off by us...- Yes.- ..by walkers.

0:22:49 > 0:22:52All around us in this area are the signs of former industry.

0:22:52 > 0:22:55Along this, here, you can...

0:22:55 > 0:22:58150 years ago, this river didn't exist -

0:22:58 > 0:23:00it's also man-made...

0:23:02 > 0:23:06The Milwr Tunnel was built to drain water from the local lead mines -

0:23:06 > 0:23:09around 45 million gallons of water each day!

0:23:09 > 0:23:12What's special about the tunnel is that

0:23:12 > 0:23:18some of the water from St Winefride's Well also drains through this pipe.

0:23:18 > 0:23:22So, I could take a healing dip here as well as up at St Winefride's?

0:23:22 > 0:23:24Well, I don't think that would be the same

0:23:24 > 0:23:27as going and seeing the holy shrine, and taking a dip up there!

0:23:38 > 0:23:40OK, Derek, so we're going to head up here

0:23:40 > 0:23:44and we're going to have a look at the wonderful dragon beacon.

0:23:44 > 0:23:45- Dragon beacon?- Yes!

0:23:51 > 0:23:54- Beautiful, isn't it? - Amazing! Who made it?

0:23:54 > 0:23:59Well, it was a partnership project between the coastal rangers

0:23:59 > 0:24:01and the local community.

0:24:01 > 0:24:04It was, basically, designed in the community

0:24:04 > 0:24:07and built by local craftsmen, and is absolutely magnificent.

0:24:07 > 0:24:10Well, it's an impressive beast, made of steel,

0:24:10 > 0:24:12and it's got a basket on its back.

0:24:12 > 0:24:16Yes, we light it in celebration of various events.

0:24:16 > 0:24:20It actually stands in sight of a beacon that we have at Flint

0:24:20 > 0:24:22and also at Greenfield Docks.

0:24:22 > 0:24:26So, once one is lit, the next can be lit and so on and so forth

0:24:26 > 0:24:28because they are in sight of each other.

0:24:37 > 0:24:40Now I won't pretend this walk is pretty all the way,

0:24:40 > 0:24:43but these ruins have a story to tell.

0:24:43 > 0:24:47This was the pithead building of Bettisfield Colliery.

0:24:47 > 0:24:50100 years ago, 650 men worked here,

0:24:50 > 0:24:54it was the largest of eleven coal pits in Bagillt -

0:24:54 > 0:24:57that's eleven pits around one small town!

0:25:00 > 0:25:04This whole area is riddled with mines, but not just coal.

0:25:04 > 0:25:07Lead, zinc and limestone were all quarried here

0:25:07 > 0:25:09in nearby Halkyn Mountain.

0:25:11 > 0:25:17What this actually is, is a piece of rare Halkyn Mountain marble

0:25:17 > 0:25:21and so that you can actually see the wonderful fossils inside,

0:25:21 > 0:25:23we've had the front of the gatepost polished

0:25:23 > 0:25:27and we've had it sandblasted with little beads, to create this

0:25:27 > 0:25:30design of fish swimming across it, but what happens

0:25:30 > 0:25:33when this gets wet with rain, as well, it brings out the fact

0:25:33 > 0:25:36that you can see, more definite, all of the crinoids inside,

0:25:36 > 0:25:38inside the marble, here.

0:25:38 > 0:25:40So, it's just jam-packed with fossils.

0:25:40 > 0:25:42And you can actually see the fossils, as you say.

0:25:42 > 0:25:45And you can see the fossils inside, but as it becomes wetter,

0:25:45 > 0:25:49as I say, it just highlights them even more.

0:26:01 > 0:26:04- So, this is Station Gutter, Derek. - Station Gutter?

0:26:04 > 0:26:09Yes, it's another one of the inlets that used to be, where the boats

0:26:09 > 0:26:15used to come up to load for coal and copper and leather and the like.

0:26:15 > 0:26:18If you actually look at this picture, here, you cannot imagine, can you,

0:26:18 > 0:26:22that boats of that size would have actually come up

0:26:22 > 0:26:25and exported things from this area?

0:26:25 > 0:26:29And, in addition to that, we had passengers disembarking here

0:26:29 > 0:26:32and they were conveyed to Holywell and Flint,

0:26:32 > 0:26:35and as far as Denbigh and St Asaph, from here.

0:26:35 > 0:26:39- So, used to be a bustling little port here?- Yes, indeed, it did, yes.

0:26:39 > 0:26:43- And look at it now.- Yes. But wonderful, again, for nature.

0:26:43 > 0:26:45When we've been working down here, towards the wintertime,

0:26:45 > 0:26:48we've actually seen kingfishers in this area.

0:26:55 > 0:26:59This is one of the newer stretches of the Wales Coast Path.

0:27:03 > 0:27:06This whole area is fantastic for birds.

0:27:06 > 0:27:10Besides the more common birds, you might even spot rarer visitors, like

0:27:10 > 0:27:15little egrets and spoonbills, along this stretch of the coastal path.

0:27:15 > 0:27:17- Nearly there!- Nearly there.

0:27:21 > 0:27:23Flint dock is a bit of a muddy creek now

0:27:23 > 0:27:26but in the 1800s, it was a busy port.

0:27:26 > 0:27:30In the 20th century, modern industry took over.

0:27:30 > 0:27:35More than 4,000 people once worked here in a huge textile factory.

0:27:35 > 0:27:39These buildings are all that's left now of the once well-known

0:27:39 > 0:27:43Courtaulds Castle Works, named after Flint Castle next door.

0:27:48 > 0:27:53Well, Karen, what a way to end our walk, with a magnificent castle!

0:27:53 > 0:27:54This is a Norman castle,

0:27:54 > 0:27:59built by Edward I, to keep his eye on the Welsh, of course!

0:27:59 > 0:28:02And you'll know about other castles that he built.

0:28:02 > 0:28:05Just down the coastline, we've got Conwy and Caernarfon Castle,

0:28:05 > 0:28:10but this is equally as important and we're very proud of it.

0:28:10 > 0:28:13- And what a great location to have a castle.- Fantastic -

0:28:13 > 0:28:16overlooking the wonderful Dee Estuary.

0:28:19 > 0:28:22So, there we are, what a fantastic walk!

0:28:22 > 0:28:24And we've had just about everything -

0:28:24 > 0:28:28wonderful views, wildlife, lots of industrial heritage

0:28:28 > 0:28:32and, like many walks in Wales, a cracking castle to finish.

0:28:32 > 0:28:35What more could you ask for?

0:28:44 > 0:28:47Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd