0:00:02 > 0:00:05Planning a trip to the beach soon? Then bring your hiking boots too.
0:00:05 > 0:00:09I'm going to show you why walking away from this is worth every step.
0:00:10 > 0:00:13And that's it for today. I'm off.
0:00:31 > 0:00:34Whether you want to get away from it all
0:00:34 > 0:00:36or fancy staying close to the action,
0:00:36 > 0:00:40my two walks today take you off the beaten track, surround you
0:00:40 > 0:00:44with stunning views, and both have a special something along the way.
0:00:48 > 0:00:52Later in the programme I'll be exploring our rich industrial past,
0:00:52 > 0:00:56with a beautiful Valleys walk around the old ironworks of Merthyr Tydfil.
0:00:56 > 0:01:00And then up into the hills beyond to see the remains of a Norman castle.
0:01:03 > 0:01:06But first a chance to breathe in some sea air
0:01:06 > 0:01:10and feel the sand between your toes, as we head to Aberdyfi,
0:01:10 > 0:01:14a beautiful fishing village right in the middle of Cardigan Bay.
0:01:14 > 0:01:16I've always wanted to come to Aberdyfi
0:01:16 > 0:01:19but today I'm not here for the beach,
0:01:19 > 0:01:23I'm heading up into the nearby hills of southern Snowdonia
0:01:23 > 0:01:27for a walk of discovery along the Dyfi Estuary and beyond.
0:01:30 > 0:01:32Aberdyfi means mouth of the River Dyfi
0:01:32 > 0:01:36and is a small seaside village neatly nestled on the north side
0:01:36 > 0:01:40of the Dyfi Estuary, overlooking Cardigan Bay.
0:01:40 > 0:01:43Starting at the centre of this picturesque fishing village,
0:01:43 > 0:01:46we take a coastal path towards Machynlleth
0:01:46 > 0:01:49before heading up into the hills to enjoy some magnificent
0:01:49 > 0:01:51coastal views of the Dyfi Estuary
0:01:51 > 0:01:54and the mountains of southern Snowdonia.
0:01:55 > 0:01:58It's then a leisurely downhill stroll back on the beach
0:01:58 > 0:02:00to our starting point.
0:02:09 > 0:02:13Showing me around is local historian and farmer David Roberts.
0:02:13 > 0:02:15A born and bred Aberdyfi boy,
0:02:15 > 0:02:19he still lives and works at the same farm where he was raised.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21His dad and sons are regular helpers
0:02:21 > 0:02:24and what he doesn't know about the village and the surrounding hills,
0:02:24 > 0:02:28well, it's just not worth knowing. So I'm in good hands.
0:02:35 > 0:02:39- Morning, David.- Croeso.- Diolch yn fawr.- Nice to see you, Derek. Welcome to Aberdyfi.
0:02:39 > 0:02:43- Thank you.- It's a fine morning. - It is. Cracking beach, too.
0:02:43 > 0:02:45It is a lovely beach, yeah. And a fine sea,
0:02:45 > 0:02:47and we've got some lovely countryside I'll show you later.
0:02:47 > 0:02:49- Let's get going.- Let's go.
0:02:51 > 0:02:54'Well, on a day like this and with these views,
0:02:54 > 0:02:58'it's no wonder most visitors stay put on the beach.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01'I'm almost tempted for a quick dip myself.'
0:03:03 > 0:03:06Before we get up into the hills, I'm going
0:03:06 > 0:03:09to just show you this little bell here, which is
0:03:09 > 0:03:12part of the story of the Bells of Aberdyfi,
0:03:12 > 0:03:16which are to do with the history and the legends of this village.
0:03:16 > 0:03:18This is our Time and Tide Bell.
0:03:18 > 0:03:21That chimes up the top of the tide every day.
0:03:21 > 0:03:25The Bells of Aberdyfi remind us of an old story
0:03:25 > 0:03:27of the lost land of Cantre'r Gwaelod,
0:03:27 > 0:03:30which was lost in the 6th century.
0:03:30 > 0:03:34Gwyddno Garanhir, the king who ruled over it,
0:03:34 > 0:03:39had a man to guard the dykes and the embankments to keep the sea out.
0:03:39 > 0:03:43He neglected his duties and a great storm rolled in
0:03:43 > 0:03:47and this wonderful, rich, lush land was inundated by the sea
0:03:47 > 0:03:51and the land was lost and all that could be heard afterwards
0:03:51 > 0:03:55was the peal of the bells under the water.
0:03:55 > 0:03:57Hence the Bells of Aberdyfi.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00BELLS CHIME
0:04:08 > 0:04:11'Aberdyfi has a rich and varied history
0:04:11 > 0:04:13'based around its bustling harbour
0:04:13 > 0:04:17'and thriving fishing industry, which is still going strong today.'
0:04:18 > 0:04:21I can see a few fishing boats on the estuary,
0:04:21 > 0:04:23and you can actually smell the fish in the air.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26Yeah, we've still got a fishing industry here
0:04:26 > 0:04:29and a local fisherman catches locally and sells it locally.
0:04:29 > 0:04:31You can't get any fresher than that.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34- I might have some fish for my tea tonight.- Yeah, yeah.
0:04:37 > 0:04:39'The village itself is often bypassed by tourists,
0:04:39 > 0:04:43'travelling instead to Aberystwyth or further north.
0:04:43 > 0:04:46'It may take a bit of an effort to get here
0:04:46 > 0:04:49'but this hidden gem really is worth going that extra mile.
0:04:53 > 0:04:57'At the end of the 19th century this small sleepy village became
0:04:57 > 0:04:59'a boomtown for ship building,
0:04:59 > 0:05:03'transforming it into a busy, vibrant place.'
0:05:05 > 0:05:09From the 1840s onwards there was seven major shipbuilders
0:05:09 > 0:05:13in the village, three of them on this site that we're just
0:05:13 > 0:05:17walking into now, and they built some beautiful ships,
0:05:17 > 0:05:21albeit on a small scale, but anything from 80-120 tonnes, you know.
0:05:21 > 0:05:25I've got a picture here of the shipyard as it was,
0:05:25 > 0:05:28and this is Roger Lewis's shipyard here.
0:05:28 > 0:05:31There it is, the Dyfi packet, on this site.
0:05:31 > 0:05:34- And the Anna Maria under repair. - This is right here?
0:05:34 > 0:05:35At this very spot here.
0:05:37 > 0:05:40But the finest of the Aberdyfi shipbuilders was Thomas Richards.
0:05:40 > 0:05:44He was a true artist and built some very, very beautiful ships,
0:05:44 > 0:05:45including the Maglona.
0:05:52 > 0:05:54'The Maglona was a magnificent schooner,
0:05:54 > 0:05:58'and one of the finest of the 45 sailing ships built in Aberdyfi.
0:05:59 > 0:06:02'The ships built here were known for their quality
0:06:02 > 0:06:05'and used to transport goods all over the world,
0:06:05 > 0:06:07'with some going as far as Canada and back.'
0:06:12 > 0:06:14'Leaving the village,
0:06:14 > 0:06:17'we pass through the tranquil Penhelig Park, before dropping down
0:06:17 > 0:06:19'to walk along the water's edge
0:06:19 > 0:06:21'and along the estuary towards Machynlleth.'
0:06:23 > 0:06:24They call this the Roman road
0:06:24 > 0:06:26but of course it wasn't built by the Romans,
0:06:26 > 0:06:30it was actually built by Corbett of Ynysmaengwyn Estate
0:06:30 > 0:06:31in about 1808.
0:06:31 > 0:06:34And it was described by Fenton, a travelling journalist,
0:06:34 > 0:06:37as one of the finest rides in the principality.
0:06:39 > 0:06:41'Initially built for horse and carriage,
0:06:41 > 0:06:44'the sea has since swallowed the bulk of this road.
0:06:46 > 0:06:48'But don't worry, these days, I'm told,
0:06:48 > 0:06:51'it rarely floods during high tide.
0:06:53 > 0:06:56'So you're safe to go for a stroll any time of the day.
0:06:56 > 0:06:58'Just make sure you wear good shoes,
0:06:58 > 0:07:01'as it can get quite slippery when wet.
0:07:10 > 0:07:13'The stone path ends at Picnic Island.
0:07:13 > 0:07:15'It's not actually an island
0:07:15 > 0:07:19'but got its name after being cut off by the railway in 1863.
0:07:21 > 0:07:25'Today the Cambrian Coast Railway offers a stunning train ride,
0:07:25 > 0:07:28'hugging the coastline from Aberystwyth to Pwllheli.
0:07:33 > 0:07:37'I'm afraid this next bit comes with a word of warning.'
0:07:38 > 0:07:41- And there's no pavement, is there? - No.
0:07:41 > 0:07:42OK.
0:07:44 > 0:07:45'This road section is only short
0:07:45 > 0:07:49'but you still need to stay on your guard and keep an eye out for cars.'
0:07:55 > 0:07:57Well, it's nice to be off the main road.
0:07:57 > 0:08:00Certainly is, and it's a bit cooler here as well.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05'Weaving our way up through this beautiful woodland
0:08:05 > 0:08:08'offers a complete contrast to the sea views
0:08:08 > 0:08:10'and hustle and bustle of the village below.'
0:08:14 > 0:08:18- Lovely little stream, David. - Yeah, that's called Nant Coed-y-Glyn.
0:08:22 > 0:08:24So where are we now, then?
0:08:24 > 0:08:29Well, the footpath leads through the grounds of the Outward Bound Trust.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32This was actually the first Outward Bound set up in the whole world,
0:08:32 > 0:08:37- a worldwide organisation. - Right here?- Yes, here in Aberdyfi.
0:08:37 > 0:08:41It was set up in 1941 and the issue was, young men at sea,
0:08:41 > 0:08:46and this was wartime, going into the water and not able to survive.
0:08:46 > 0:08:48So they were teaching them the skills here.
0:08:52 > 0:08:55'These important skills for surviving out at sea
0:08:55 > 0:08:58'saved the lives of many merchant seamen during the war
0:08:58 > 0:09:01'and today the centre is still teaching water-based activities
0:09:01 > 0:09:05'and skills to thousands of young people who come here
0:09:05 > 0:09:07'looking for adventure in the great outdoors.
0:09:13 > 0:09:17'Soon we break out into the open fields above the estuary.
0:09:17 > 0:09:19'We're now on David's land.
0:09:19 > 0:09:23'He's on home turf, and what a magnificent place to call your own.
0:09:29 > 0:09:32'Also admiring the views are the swallows,
0:09:32 > 0:09:35'and gathering on cables like this signals the start
0:09:35 > 0:09:38'of their epic 6,000-mile journey to Africa.
0:09:38 > 0:09:41'I need a sit-down just thinking about it.'
0:09:43 > 0:09:46Well, here we are, Derek. The path has taken us to my home,
0:09:46 > 0:09:47so there's a chance of a cup of tea.
0:09:48 > 0:09:53- Well, we deserve one after walking up this hill.- Yeah.
0:09:53 > 0:09:56'Well, what a spot. And there's even some cake on the go.
0:09:56 > 0:10:00'Some lovely bara brith served up by David's dad, Robert.'
0:10:01 > 0:10:03Bendigedig.
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- This is lovely.- I made it specially for you this morning(!)
0:10:07 > 0:10:10- It's yours, is it? It's all your doing.- Yeah.
0:10:10 > 0:10:13- Very good. Mae'n flasys iawn. - ROBERT CHUCKLES
0:10:13 > 0:10:14That'll be the day!
0:10:17 > 0:10:19'And all too soon it's time to move on
0:10:19 > 0:10:21'and we head off uphill once more.'
0:10:21 > 0:10:23- Diolch yn fawr.- Croeso.
0:10:23 > 0:10:27Well, the footpath passes really close to your house, David.
0:10:27 > 0:10:30Does it bother you, people walking through your farm?
0:10:30 > 0:10:31No, doesn't bother me at all.
0:10:31 > 0:10:34I'm very happy to give people a welcome.
0:10:34 > 0:10:36And I think it's important that people come
0:10:36 > 0:10:37and enjoy our footpaths.
0:10:37 > 0:10:41Landowners and farmers should be the ambassadors for the countryside.
0:10:43 > 0:10:44'I'm sure for most people
0:10:44 > 0:10:47'having a footpath so close could be more of a hindrance
0:10:47 > 0:10:51'so it's great to hear that David is happy to have walkers
0:10:51 > 0:10:54'on his land - as long as they stick to the footpath, that is.'
0:11:00 > 0:11:02Oh... Climbing a bit now. I can feel it.
0:11:02 > 0:11:04Yes, it's a good pull up here.
0:11:05 > 0:11:07The farmhouse is at 300 foot
0:11:07 > 0:11:10and then we go just to 800 foot at the top of the ridge.
0:11:10 > 0:11:13So it could be raining down on the farm and snowing up here.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16DAVID CHUCKLES Well, we do... That happens, yeah, yeah.
0:11:21 > 0:11:23'With such a steep climb,
0:11:23 > 0:11:25'I'm not surprised that my legs are now feeling the strain,
0:11:25 > 0:11:29'but it's amazing how quickly the clear blue skies have changed
0:11:29 > 0:11:33'to a murky mist as we near the top.'
0:11:33 > 0:11:35All right, Derek, levelling out a bit now.
0:11:35 > 0:11:37We'll have a bit of a breather here.
0:11:38 > 0:11:40Got a bit of a sad story, really,
0:11:40 > 0:11:44involving an aeroplane crash at the end of the Second World War.
0:11:44 > 0:11:47Aeroplane coming up from the south,
0:11:47 > 0:11:49crossing the Dyfi Estuary in thick mist,
0:11:49 > 0:11:52and the plane looks up and he sees the top of the mountain there
0:11:52 > 0:11:55and he thinks, "That's the ridge I must get over,"
0:11:55 > 0:11:57but he was going straight into the side of this hill here.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00At the last minute he turns to the right
0:12:00 > 0:12:03and ends up crashing in a field there,
0:12:03 > 0:12:08and sadly, of three on board, two were killed and one was rescued.
0:12:08 > 0:12:11After that the RAF put up a manned beacon here
0:12:11 > 0:12:15with a light flashing day and night to prevent it happening again.
0:12:16 > 0:12:19It's a very sad story in such a beautiful surroundings.
0:12:19 > 0:12:21Yeah, yes, it is.
0:12:21 > 0:12:24'And it's a story that's echoed all over Wales,
0:12:24 > 0:12:27'with reminders of tragic plane crashes
0:12:27 > 0:12:29'on so many of our hills and mountains.
0:12:34 > 0:12:37'Up on the ridge we're rewarded with hazy
0:12:37 > 0:12:40'but wonderful views across the Tarrenau mountains.
0:12:40 > 0:12:44'And this is Cwm Maethlon, renamed Happy Valley by the Victorians,
0:12:44 > 0:12:47'who were the first to start walking for pleasure.'
0:12:54 > 0:12:56Hey, I've never seen one of these before.
0:12:56 > 0:12:59You can get some refreshment here, Derek.
0:12:59 > 0:13:02Welsh cakes, water,
0:13:02 > 0:13:06- and an honesty box inside. - Well, look at that.
0:13:06 > 0:13:09Welsh cakes a pound. I'll have a packet of those.
0:13:09 > 0:13:12There you are, there you go. Bingo.
0:13:14 > 0:13:17- Fantastic.- Mmm, they look nice.
0:13:17 > 0:13:19These will keep me going for a while.
0:13:19 > 0:13:21- All the way back to Aberdyfi. - Not far.
0:13:32 > 0:13:36'Well, I can't say I was expecting to do some shopping on this walk
0:13:36 > 0:13:39'but what a treat to stumble across along the way,
0:13:39 > 0:13:42'and just when I thought things couldn't get any better...'
0:13:44 > 0:13:46Well, that view is absolutely wonderful.
0:13:46 > 0:13:50- Amazing looking across Cardigan Bay. - It is.
0:13:50 > 0:13:53I bet you never tire of this view.
0:13:53 > 0:13:56- No, I don't, and every day is different.- Just like the weather!
0:14:00 > 0:14:03'And as we drop back down to sea level it seems there are now
0:14:03 > 0:14:07'only two things standing between me and that beach.'
0:14:07 > 0:14:10Crossing the Cambrian Coast railway line here, Derek.
0:14:10 > 0:14:15- We'll have to be careful. - Is it a busy line?
0:14:15 > 0:14:18It is when the train comes. We've got to stop, look and listen.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22'Train crossings can be extremely dangerous places
0:14:22 > 0:14:25'so we cross with care.
0:14:25 > 0:14:28'And it's not time to relax just yet.
0:14:28 > 0:14:31'We now have to dodge some high-speed balls as we make our way
0:14:31 > 0:14:33'across Aberdyfi's golf course.
0:14:36 > 0:14:39'Don't worry, he wasn't aiming for me. At least, I hope he wasn't.'
0:14:39 > 0:14:42Well, we managed to get across the golf course in one piece.
0:14:42 > 0:14:44Yep, certainly did.
0:14:52 > 0:14:55Well, Derek, the journey comes to the end.
0:14:55 > 0:14:59And here we are, look at this, the best beach in Wales.
0:14:59 > 0:15:00It's absolutely gorgeous.
0:15:00 > 0:15:04Not quite as nice as the beach in Barry-bados.
0:15:04 > 0:15:06In your dreams, Derek.
0:15:09 > 0:15:12Well, even a Barry boy has to admit
0:15:12 > 0:15:14that this is a really fabulous beach.
0:15:19 > 0:15:21Well, for me, this walk has been
0:15:21 > 0:15:25a real eye-opener to a part of Wales I thought I knew.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28A charming town, rolling hills, stunning views,
0:15:28 > 0:15:31and a beautiful beach to finish.
0:15:31 > 0:15:32What more could you ask for?
0:15:44 > 0:15:47And if you fancy trying this or another one of our walks,
0:15:47 > 0:15:52go to bbc.co.uk/weathermanwalking
0:15:52 > 0:15:56and take a look at our website. It's got everything you need,
0:15:56 > 0:15:58from detailed route information for each walk,
0:15:58 > 0:16:00to walking maps for you to print off.
0:16:00 > 0:16:04There are also some photos we took along the way.
0:16:04 > 0:16:07Our next walk also takes us through both town and country.
0:16:07 > 0:16:10But this time we're down south, following a fascinating
0:16:10 > 0:16:13and surprising route near Merthyr Tydfil.
0:16:15 > 0:16:19Where would you rather be? Stuck behind the wheel of a car
0:16:19 > 0:16:20on a boring stretch of road,
0:16:20 > 0:16:24or out in the open air on a tailor-made trail
0:16:24 > 0:16:25heading for the hills?
0:16:25 > 0:16:27I know which I prefer.
0:16:30 > 0:16:33I'm starting my walk at Cyfarthfa Castle.
0:16:33 > 0:16:35Built in the early 1800s, this grand abode
0:16:35 > 0:16:38was the family home of the Crawshays,
0:16:38 > 0:16:42ironmasters who made their fortunes when Merthyr's iron boom
0:16:42 > 0:16:46was at its height. Today, it houses a fascinating museum,
0:16:46 > 0:16:48and it's well worth spending an hour or two there
0:16:48 > 0:16:50before setting off on your walk.
0:16:54 > 0:16:58Leading me on my Merthyr voyage of discovery is author, journalist
0:16:58 > 0:17:01and travel writer Rebecca Lees.
0:17:01 > 0:17:04Originally from Swansea and now living near Pontypridd,
0:17:04 > 0:17:07Becky has been a mad-keen walker for as long as she can remember.
0:17:07 > 0:17:11And she combines her love of walking and history
0:17:11 > 0:17:13in her guidebooks for walkers.
0:17:14 > 0:17:18- Hi, Rebecca.- Hi, Derek, how are you?- I'm all right.
0:17:18 > 0:17:21- Nice to meet you.- And you. Well, this used to be a grand family home.
0:17:21 > 0:17:24- That's right.- What on earth are these cannons doing here, then?
0:17:24 > 0:17:28Well, the cannons were central to the war effort, really,
0:17:28 > 0:17:31at the height of the Napoleonic Wars because the Crawshays,
0:17:31 > 0:17:33who owned Cyfarthfa Castle and the ironworks,
0:17:33 > 0:17:35were responsible for making them.
0:17:35 > 0:17:39And Merthyr was so central to the war effort
0:17:39 > 0:17:43that Lord Nelson actually visited Merthyr in 1802 with Lady Hamilton.
0:17:43 > 0:17:46- So a lot of history here. - Lots of history going on, yes.
0:17:49 > 0:17:54Merthyr sits on the southern edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park.
0:17:54 > 0:17:57Our route takes us from the grounds of Cyfarthfa Castle
0:17:57 > 0:17:59down and over the River Taff,
0:17:59 > 0:18:02then a short detour to the site of the old ironworks,
0:18:02 > 0:18:05before heading out of town along the Taff Trail
0:18:05 > 0:18:07to call in at Vaynor Church.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11And then climbing steeply up to the hilltop site of Morlais Castle.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13It's then downhill all the way,
0:18:13 > 0:18:15along the banks of the Taf Fechan
0:18:15 > 0:18:17back to the start,
0:18:17 > 0:18:21having walked 7.5 surprising miles.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32Nice little footbridge here, Rebecca.
0:18:32 > 0:18:35Well, it's actually more than a footbridge.
0:18:35 > 0:18:37It's actually the oldest surviving
0:18:37 > 0:18:39cast-iron railway bridge in the world.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43It's called Pont y Cafnau, which means Bridge of the Troughs,
0:18:43 > 0:18:46and there would have been a huge aqueduct running along the top here,
0:18:46 > 0:18:49and that would have carried water into the ironworks
0:18:49 > 0:18:51and powered a massive wheel.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54And this tramway here would have taken limestone to the ironworks?
0:18:54 > 0:18:58- Yeah, that's right, from the Gurnos Quarry.- It's hard to believe,
0:18:58 > 0:19:02- that this is the oldest cast-iron bridge in the world.- Yeah.
0:19:02 > 0:19:05- And it's right here in Merthyr Tydfil.- That's right.
0:19:05 > 0:19:07- Quite tucked out of the way, isn't it?- Next to the industrial estate!
0:19:10 > 0:19:16A brief detour downstream leads to a once-impressive industrial landmark,
0:19:16 > 0:19:19which contributed to the transformation of Merthyr
0:19:19 > 0:19:23from a small farming village to the largest town in Wales.
0:19:24 > 0:19:27You could walk or cycle past this piece of waste ground
0:19:27 > 0:19:30and not realise that it's a really significant historic site.
0:19:30 > 0:19:34In some ways, it's where the Industrial Revolution
0:19:34 > 0:19:35really took off.
0:19:35 > 0:19:38Here is the Cyfarthfa Ironworks.
0:19:38 > 0:19:43And you can still see six arches from the glass furnaces.
0:19:43 > 0:19:45It still looks very impressive today,
0:19:45 > 0:19:48but in the 19th century it would have been far, far bigger,
0:19:48 > 0:19:52because the site here was at the core of the Industrial Revolution.
0:19:52 > 0:19:55Iron from here would have been transported, exported,
0:19:55 > 0:19:56- all over the world. - Yeah, that's right.
0:19:56 > 0:20:00To America and to the British colonies and all across Europe.
0:20:00 > 0:20:04Cyfarthfa was the largest of four main ironworks in Merthyr,
0:20:04 > 0:20:08and iron was smelted in these glass furnaces 24/7.
0:20:08 > 0:20:12The sheer scale, the size of this place is amazing, isn't it?
0:20:12 > 0:20:14Yeah, it's absolutely enormous.
0:20:14 > 0:20:17You can imagine what it would have been like working here,
0:20:17 > 0:20:18with the blast furnaces going,
0:20:18 > 0:20:20lighting up the night sky for miles around.
0:20:20 > 0:20:24- Lots of smoke and fire and noise. - Lots of noise, yeah.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27So it must have been quite a terrifying place to work, actually,
0:20:27 > 0:20:29for some of the small children who worked here.
0:20:29 > 0:20:32- No Health & Safety in those days, either.- No! Not at all.
0:20:32 > 0:20:34There would have been fatalities, horrible injuries.
0:20:34 > 0:20:39But it's really important to remember the significance of this place.
0:20:39 > 0:20:42- I mean, it's such a part of our industrial heritage.- It certainly is.
0:20:42 > 0:20:45This place does feel neglected, even though
0:20:45 > 0:20:48it's got bags of potential as an historic site.
0:20:53 > 0:20:54We're getting a bit higher now.
0:20:54 > 0:20:57Yeah, it's a nice section of the Taff Trail, isn't it?
0:20:57 > 0:20:59And a great view of Cyfarthfa Castle from here.
0:20:59 > 0:21:01Yeah, it's lovely. You can see
0:21:01 > 0:21:04the luxury in which the Crawshays would have lived
0:21:04 > 0:21:05compared to the workers.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11I must have driven up the A470 so many times,
0:21:11 > 0:21:14and glanced over at the Cefn Coed viaduct,
0:21:14 > 0:21:18never realising that you can actually walk or cycle over it.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23Up until 1966, this impressive structure
0:21:23 > 0:21:26carried the Brecon and Merthyr Railway,
0:21:26 > 0:21:28the beginning of a very scenic trip
0:21:28 > 0:21:31right through the heart of the Beacons to Brecon.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33Its design is also rather unusual.
0:21:36 > 0:21:39- One thing I've noticed - it's curved. Why's that?- Yeah.
0:21:39 > 0:21:41That's quite unusual for a viaduct.
0:21:41 > 0:21:45Crawshay knew the engineer, so they designed it
0:21:45 > 0:21:47in a curved fashion to avoid Crawshay's land.
0:21:47 > 0:21:50- Nice to have friends in high places! - Yeah, absolutely!
0:21:52 > 0:21:55For a short distance from the viaduct,
0:21:55 > 0:21:58our trail threads its way through the village of Cefn-coed-y-cymmer.
0:22:00 > 0:22:04This is really the only part of the route where you're walking
0:22:04 > 0:22:08along a few streets, past pubs, houses and a church.
0:22:08 > 0:22:11And before you know it, you're out in the country!
0:22:14 > 0:22:18Well, you're right, Rebecca, it has opened out. Just look at that view!
0:22:18 > 0:22:20Yeah, it's absolutely beautiful, isn't it?
0:22:20 > 0:22:25The amazing thing is, it's all so close to the town, on the doorstep.
0:22:25 > 0:22:27Well, that's why Merthyr is where Merthyr is,
0:22:27 > 0:22:30because we've got all these natural resources here
0:22:30 > 0:22:32that were needed to feed the ironworks. So down there,
0:22:32 > 0:22:35there would have been a limestone quarry.
0:22:35 > 0:22:38And you've got all the water you'd need to make the iron.
0:22:40 > 0:22:44Strange to think that if it hadn't been for the natural resources
0:22:44 > 0:22:46that all happened to be close together here,
0:22:46 > 0:22:48there would have been no iron and steel industry
0:22:48 > 0:22:50and no Merthyr as we know it.
0:22:54 > 0:22:57This old railway line we're following would have
0:22:57 > 0:23:01played its part in carrying goods and passengers into and out of town.
0:23:03 > 0:23:07It was very picturesque, but owing to the number of accidents
0:23:07 > 0:23:11caused by the very steep gradient further up the line,
0:23:11 > 0:23:14the Brecon & Merthyr also became known as
0:23:14 > 0:23:16the Breakneck & Murder Railway.
0:23:18 > 0:23:22- So we're going off the rails a bit now.- Yeah, that's right.
0:23:22 > 0:23:26We're actually walking on the old Pontsarn station platform,
0:23:26 > 0:23:28and in its day this was a real tourist attraction,
0:23:28 > 0:23:31with trainfuls of Sunday School parties
0:23:31 > 0:23:34and sightseers pulling up to this lovely beauty spot.
0:23:34 > 0:23:37Well, I can see why. We're only a couple of miles from town,
0:23:37 > 0:23:40- and you've got all this beautiful countryside.- Yeah.
0:23:40 > 0:23:42Right in the middle of the Brecon Beacons National Park.
0:23:42 > 0:23:44- Can't beat it.- It's lovely.
0:23:45 > 0:23:48So far, we've been following the Taff Trail,
0:23:48 > 0:23:51a 55-mile walking and cycle path
0:23:51 > 0:23:54that runs all the way from Cardiff to Brecon.
0:23:54 > 0:23:57But having crossed another old viaduct at Pontsarn,
0:23:57 > 0:24:00we leave the easygoing tarmac surface and drop more steeply
0:24:00 > 0:24:03down towards the Taf Fechan river.
0:24:05 > 0:24:09Careful on the bridge. It gets quite slippery in the rain.
0:24:09 > 0:24:11- It's quite narrow, isn't it? - Yeah, quite tight.
0:24:18 > 0:24:22A convenient footbridge leads us across the valley
0:24:22 > 0:24:24towards St Gwynno's Church.
0:24:24 > 0:24:25Nearly at the church now.
0:24:26 > 0:24:29The church was, in fact, built by one of the Crawshays
0:24:29 > 0:24:33to replace a dilapidated old 13th-century Norman church.
0:24:33 > 0:24:38And even though the rain's arrived, there's no chance of shelter,
0:24:38 > 0:24:41because what we've come to see is in the churchyard.
0:24:44 > 0:24:48This is St Gwynno's Church, but it's known locally as Vaynor Church,
0:24:48 > 0:24:51and it was built by Robert Thompson Crawshay.
0:24:51 > 0:24:55And round the back here there's something quite extraordinary.
0:24:55 > 0:25:00- I've never seen a tombstone this big before.- Yeah, it's huge, isn't it?
0:25:00 > 0:25:03That's an enormous piece of Radyr sandstone,
0:25:03 > 0:25:05and this is the grave of Robert Thompson Crawshay.
0:25:05 > 0:25:08He was the third in the line of ironmasters.
0:25:08 > 0:25:11And it says on there, "God forgive me".
0:25:11 > 0:25:13- What was he asking forgiveness for? - The story goes
0:25:13 > 0:25:17that he wasn't a very nice employer. But it's more likely to refer to
0:25:17 > 0:25:20the fact that he wasn't very nice to his family either.
0:25:20 > 0:25:22In particular, his daughter, Rose Harriette.
0:25:22 > 0:25:25Now, he told her she could never get married.
0:25:25 > 0:25:28But she disobeyed him and she did get married,
0:25:28 > 0:25:31and apparently he repented of it just before he died.
0:25:31 > 0:25:33- A lesson for all of us.- It is!
0:25:36 > 0:25:39Placed into the wall on the other side of the church
0:25:39 > 0:25:42is the headstone of local parishioner Catherine Morgan,
0:25:42 > 0:25:46who lived to the very grand old age of 106.
0:25:48 > 0:25:51- That's a fantastic age to live for that era.- Yeah, it is.
0:25:51 > 0:25:54And she actually lived through the reign of seven monarchs.
0:25:54 > 0:25:56Seven monarchs!
0:25:56 > 0:25:59Bet not many of you could name all those.
0:26:06 > 0:26:09- Which way are we going, left or right?- Just left here.
0:26:09 > 0:26:12And there's just a short section of road, just a few hundred yards.
0:26:24 > 0:26:27Just down here we've got what's known locally as Blue Pool.
0:26:27 > 0:26:30Well, it doesn't look very blue to me.
0:26:30 > 0:26:33- Not today!- I'll have to come back another time,
0:26:33 > 0:26:35- when the sun's shining.- Yeah.
0:26:35 > 0:26:38- Nice gorge, though. - Lovely, isn't it?
0:26:47 > 0:26:50Well, the forecast did say it would brighten up, and I'm glad to say
0:26:50 > 0:26:52it was right again.
0:26:57 > 0:26:59- Sharp turn.- Yeah.
0:26:59 > 0:27:03We're now heading for the hilltop location of Morlais Castle,
0:27:03 > 0:27:07built by a Norman lord, Gilbert de Clare, around 1287.
0:27:07 > 0:27:10by that time, he'd already built Caerphilly Castle,
0:27:10 > 0:27:12so he knew a thing or two about castle-building.
0:27:12 > 0:27:14But you'd never guess it from this one.
0:27:16 > 0:27:19Well, what a fantastic location.
0:27:19 > 0:27:22It's not as impressive as Caerphilly Castle,
0:27:22 > 0:27:24but it does have its own golf course.
0:27:27 > 0:27:32At one time, huge round towers stood at each end of this enclosure.
0:27:32 > 0:27:36But over hundreds of years, the castle was gradually dismantled,
0:27:36 > 0:27:38apart from a vaulted crypt,
0:27:38 > 0:27:41which amazingly survives almost completely intact.
0:27:44 > 0:27:45And here we are.
0:27:45 > 0:27:51On top of Morlais Castle, with 360-degree panoramic views.
0:27:51 > 0:27:53It's amazing.
0:27:53 > 0:27:57We can see right down the Taff Vale there, down towards Pontypridd.
0:27:57 > 0:28:00And to the north, the Brecon Beacons.
0:28:00 > 0:28:03Lovely, isn't it? And just down there, you can see most of
0:28:03 > 0:28:07- the route we've walked today.- And the A470 snaking its way down as well.
0:28:12 > 0:28:16What a fascinating walk. And we did indeed have a few surprises,
0:28:16 > 0:28:19from the world's oldest cast-iron rail bridge,
0:28:19 > 0:28:21a rare curved viaduct,
0:28:21 > 0:28:24a woman who lived through the reign of seven monarchs,
0:28:24 > 0:28:28and one of the largest tombstones I've ever seen.
0:28:28 > 0:28:31All in one wonderful walk. Shall we go?
0:28:33 > 0:28:36So there we are. It's downhill all the way from here,
0:28:36 > 0:28:40beside the Taf Fechan river, back to Cyfarthfa Castle.