Llandrillo and Tenby

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0:00:02 > 0:00:04I love going for a walk, but going for a walk with one of these?

0:00:04 > 0:00:06I'm not too sure about that!

0:00:30 > 0:00:33Later on, I've got a seaside rendezvous in Tenby, the place

0:00:33 > 0:00:36they used to call the Welsh Naples.

0:00:36 > 0:00:37But first, I'm heading up

0:00:37 > 0:00:40into the Berwyn Mountains in North Wales

0:00:40 > 0:00:42with some rather unusual company.

0:00:42 > 0:00:46They say in television - never work with children or animals,

0:00:46 > 0:00:49but my first walk is along an old drovers' route,

0:00:49 > 0:00:52so just like them, I'll be taking some four-legged friends along.

0:00:52 > 0:00:54Wish me luck!

0:00:55 > 0:01:01My guide is Carol Jerman, a local art teacher and llama lover.

0:01:01 > 0:01:05She's owned her llamas for over ten years and offers guided llama walks

0:01:05 > 0:01:07for those who fancy a walk with a difference.

0:01:07 > 0:01:09MUSIC: Black Beauty Theme by Denis King

0:01:09 > 0:01:11Here they are. My special friends!

0:01:11 > 0:01:13What are they called?

0:01:13 > 0:01:17- This one is Eddie.- Hi, Eddie. And the one over here is Koobie.

0:01:17 > 0:01:19And Koobie. And who's the one in the middle?

0:01:19 > 0:01:22The one in the middle is my friend Fran, who is helping us today.

0:01:22 > 0:01:23- Hi, Fran. - Hi, Derek. Nice to meet you.

0:01:23 > 0:01:25You're doing a fantastic job.

0:01:25 > 0:01:27Have you handled big animals before, Derek?

0:01:27 > 0:01:30- Well, um, I've had a dog in my time and um...- OK.

0:01:30 > 0:01:34..a goldfish, guinea pigs - but I've never worked with llamas before.

0:01:34 > 0:01:37I think they want to be on their way.

0:01:37 > 0:01:39Whoops! He definitely wants to be on the way!

0:01:39 > 0:01:41- I'm in charge of Eddie, am I?- Yes!

0:01:41 > 0:01:42Come on, Eddie!

0:01:44 > 0:01:46Let's go llama walking.

0:01:46 > 0:01:47Let's go llama walking.

0:01:50 > 0:01:53'Or should I say, Derek walking, as right now,

0:01:53 > 0:01:56'it seems Eddie is taking me for a walk.'

0:01:56 > 0:02:00I think he's a bit confused. Come on, it's this way.

0:02:05 > 0:02:09My llama adventure starts in the village of Llandrillo

0:02:09 > 0:02:10in Denbighshire.

0:02:10 > 0:02:14Leaving the car park, we follow an old drovers' road up to

0:02:14 > 0:02:17the impressive stone circle at Ty-uchaf,

0:02:17 > 0:02:20before rejoining the main track and heading up into the Berwyns

0:02:20 > 0:02:25to the Wayfarer memorial stone on the Nant Rhyd Wilym Pass.

0:02:26 > 0:02:28After a quick stop at the top,

0:02:28 > 0:02:32we retraced our hoofprints before taking a different route back through

0:02:32 > 0:02:34forest and farmland to Llandrillo,

0:02:34 > 0:02:37a total trek of just over nine miles.

0:02:41 > 0:02:43They're very easy to handle.

0:02:43 > 0:02:46Wherever the head goes, the animal goes.

0:02:46 > 0:02:48And don't worry about him spitting, by the way.

0:02:48 > 0:02:50They've got such a bad reputation,

0:02:50 > 0:02:51but he'll give you plenty of warning.

0:02:51 > 0:02:54They only do it if they get annoyed by something.

0:02:54 > 0:02:57So, Carol, why did you choose to own llamas?

0:02:57 > 0:02:58Why not a dog?

0:02:58 > 0:03:01Well, I was watching Countryfile about 13 years ago

0:03:01 > 0:03:05and there was a bit in it about a family in Northamptonshire

0:03:05 > 0:03:10doing this very thing, and I thought "That's what I want to do."

0:03:10 > 0:03:13I got some training and then I got someone who had llamas to

0:03:13 > 0:03:16help me find some, and these came from a llama farm

0:03:16 > 0:03:18in Pembrokeshire, so they're Welsh llamas.

0:03:18 > 0:03:19Fantastic.

0:03:19 > 0:03:21So are they easy to look after?

0:03:21 > 0:03:23They're really easy. They're very hardy.

0:03:23 > 0:03:26They have a shelter they can go in whenever they want,

0:03:26 > 0:03:29but most of the time, they just stay out in the field.

0:03:31 > 0:03:33'Native to South America,

0:03:33 > 0:03:36'llamas have been used as pack animals for thousands of years

0:03:36 > 0:03:39'and are one of our oldest domesticated animals.'

0:03:43 > 0:03:45Are they used to walking up and down the hills?

0:03:45 > 0:03:47Oh, they're mountain animals.

0:03:47 > 0:03:48It's so easy for them.

0:03:48 > 0:03:51D'you know, a llama's got more haemoglobin in its blood

0:03:51 > 0:03:53- than any other mammal.- Really?- Yeah.

0:03:53 > 0:03:56They find altitude and hills so easy.

0:03:58 > 0:03:59Not like me!

0:03:59 > 0:04:02- They're probably fitter than us. - Absolutely.

0:04:02 > 0:04:06'Unlike ponies, llamas aren't strong enough to carry people,

0:04:06 > 0:04:09'but Eddie's offered to carry my lunch instead.

0:04:09 > 0:04:10'He's great company, too.'

0:04:12 > 0:04:13Oh, thanks, Fran.

0:04:16 > 0:04:20So we're going on the Taith Tegid, the Tegid Way now, Derek.

0:04:20 > 0:04:23It's a footpath that goes from Cynwyd right through to Bala.

0:04:38 > 0:04:41We're actually on an old drovers' road here, Derek.

0:04:41 > 0:04:45The whole of the Berwyns are absolutely crisscrossed with them,

0:04:45 > 0:04:48going right over to the cities of England.

0:04:48 > 0:04:52They used to bring hundreds and hundreds of animals across here,

0:04:52 > 0:04:55mainly sheep but some unusual things as well - geese!

0:04:55 > 0:04:57Geese?

0:04:57 > 0:05:01Geese. They actually used to put tar on their feet like shoes

0:05:01 > 0:05:03so their feet wouldn't wear out.

0:05:03 > 0:05:05Imagine taking a whole flock of geese

0:05:05 > 0:05:08- all the way over to the Midlands.- Hundreds of miles.

0:05:08 > 0:05:13Yeah, and see the valley down there? Those lovely green fields there?

0:05:13 > 0:05:16They used to bring the cattle even over from Ireland and they'd

0:05:16 > 0:05:18fatten them there, get them all ready

0:05:18 > 0:05:20before they crossed the Berwyns.

0:05:20 > 0:05:23In all kinds of weather. Rain, hail, snow, gales.

0:05:23 > 0:05:25- In all kinds of weather. Absolutely. - The lot.

0:05:25 > 0:05:26And even in the summer,

0:05:26 > 0:05:28it's not always a joke up on top there.

0:05:28 > 0:05:31They must have been a really tough lot.

0:05:31 > 0:05:33- Very hardy.- Really tough.- Come on.

0:05:33 > 0:05:36'And here's me struggling with just one llama!'

0:05:43 > 0:05:44Isn't it lovely?

0:05:44 > 0:05:47Gorgeous. Absolutely beautiful.

0:05:47 > 0:05:51- It's one of my favourite parts of Wales, the Berwyn Mountains.- Yes.

0:05:51 > 0:05:53And not known as well as it should be.

0:05:53 > 0:05:57People go straight past to Snowdonia and it's so marvellous here.

0:05:57 > 0:05:59You don't have to go that far, do you?

0:05:59 > 0:06:02You don't have to go that far.

0:06:02 > 0:06:06'So my advice - skip Snowdonia and give the Berwyns a bash.'

0:06:10 > 0:06:15# Lift up the lids of your eyes... #

0:06:17 > 0:06:20'But just when I feel I'm finally in control,

0:06:20 > 0:06:22'the llamas have other ideas.'

0:06:22 > 0:06:25- Cooling off.- Is he?

0:06:25 > 0:06:27I think we might be needing a toilet break.

0:06:29 > 0:06:31Yes, there he goes.

0:06:31 > 0:06:32DEREK LAUGHS

0:06:32 > 0:06:34It's not quite Niagara Falls, is it?

0:06:34 > 0:06:35No, it isn't!

0:06:35 > 0:06:38They don't like to relieve themselves just anywhere.

0:06:38 > 0:06:40They like a proper toilet, and if there isn't one,

0:06:40 > 0:06:42running water will do.

0:06:44 > 0:06:47Eddie! He might want to have a wee.

0:06:47 > 0:06:50They generally do synchronised weeing.

0:06:50 > 0:06:53- Synchronised weeing! - Synchronised weeing, yes.

0:06:53 > 0:06:54Is that an Olympic sport?

0:06:57 > 0:07:01'And after the world's longest loo break, we carry on.'

0:07:08 > 0:07:12- I'm really enjoying this. - Yes, lovely, isn't it? It's great.

0:07:12 > 0:07:16Yeah, these days, you see all this and think the Berwyns are empty,

0:07:16 > 0:07:18almost like a wilderness.

0:07:18 > 0:07:21But there's been so much farming and settlement here

0:07:21 > 0:07:23since prehistory, you know.

0:07:25 > 0:07:27I think I'd rather be farming down in the valley

0:07:27 > 0:07:28below than up on the top here.

0:07:28 > 0:07:32That used to be very, very heavily wooded and marshy.

0:07:32 > 0:07:39Whereas you get to about 2,400 to about 1,400 BC, warmer climate.

0:07:39 > 0:07:43They were living and farming up here, not down there.

0:07:43 > 0:07:46It was no good down there. Too many trees, where up here, it was great.

0:07:46 > 0:07:52If you have a look at the wall over there, you see the upright slates?

0:07:52 > 0:07:54That's the old medieval fencing.

0:07:54 > 0:07:58And then you get the ordinary dry stone and then the modern stuff.

0:07:58 > 0:08:02- I don't think the modern stuff is as pretty, myself.- It isn't, no.

0:08:02 > 0:08:04- I prefer the original fencing. - Yeah.

0:08:04 > 0:08:05Which you see a lot of in Snowdonia.

0:08:05 > 0:08:06You do, yes.

0:08:06 > 0:08:08But going back to prehistory,

0:08:08 > 0:08:11there's a real special example to show you just ahead.

0:08:11 > 0:08:13You're going to enjoy this.

0:08:17 > 0:08:20'So while the llamas rest, we set off.

0:08:20 > 0:08:23'If these hills look steep, that's because they are!

0:08:26 > 0:08:29'We've climbed 900ft in just over one mile.

0:08:37 > 0:08:42'This is Moel Ty Uchaf stone circle, dating back to Neolithic times,

0:08:42 > 0:08:46'when the whole Berwyn range was littered with stone circles,

0:08:46 > 0:08:48'cairns and burial chambers.'

0:08:51 > 0:08:55- Look at the views! - I know. 360 all the way around.

0:08:55 > 0:08:58You can see the sea over there by Prestatyn.

0:08:58 > 0:09:01- Hey, is that Snowdon over there in the distance?- Yes, it is.

0:09:01 > 0:09:03And our destination.

0:09:03 > 0:09:06- Right there on the skyline, yes. - Right over there. I tell you what,

0:09:06 > 0:09:08it's a great place to keep an eye on the weather.

0:09:08 > 0:09:10Look at these cumulus clouds!

0:09:10 > 0:09:11Yes, look at them!

0:09:13 > 0:09:14- Bendigedig!- Bendigedig!

0:09:14 > 0:09:17Well, thanks so much for bringing me all the way up here.

0:09:17 > 0:09:19- It's really worth it, isn't it? - It is, it is. Yeah.

0:09:19 > 0:09:22- Well, we'd better get back to the llamas now.- Better had.

0:09:22 > 0:09:24- They'll be missing us. - They will - especially you!

0:09:24 > 0:09:27- Let's go. - THEY LAUGH

0:09:29 > 0:09:30Here they are.

0:09:30 > 0:09:33Look who's here. They've been fine.

0:09:33 > 0:09:35- Hello.- They've been fine. There you are, Koobie.

0:09:35 > 0:09:38Hello, Koobie. Good boy. Come on, boys.

0:09:38 > 0:09:42- Glad to be back with your llama? - I am, yeah. I missed him.- Yeah!

0:09:42 > 0:09:46# Os yw'th seren di ar goll

0:09:46 > 0:09:51# Ar noson ddu

0:09:52 > 0:09:57# Tyrd adre'n ol

0:09:57 > 0:10:00# Nol ata i... #

0:10:00 > 0:10:05The Berwyns are famous for their isolation and wildness,

0:10:05 > 0:10:08but when the weather turns, they can be deadly.

0:10:08 > 0:10:13It happened in 1886 - great snowstorm on St David's Day.

0:10:13 > 0:10:17A young farmer, Henry Davies, went up to bring his sheep down

0:10:17 > 0:10:22to try to save them from the storm, from the blizzard.

0:10:22 > 0:10:24And even though he knew the mountains like the back of his hand,

0:10:24 > 0:10:26in the blizzard, he went over the edge of the cliff

0:10:26 > 0:10:29with one of his flock in his arms and died,

0:10:29 > 0:10:31and the people in the village

0:10:31 > 0:10:34were so moved that they erected a very fine tombstone,

0:10:34 > 0:10:39telling the story, headed with "Y Bugail Da" - "The Good Shepherd."

0:10:39 > 0:10:41- That's a real tragic story.- It is.

0:10:41 > 0:10:45And it just goes to show how horrendous conditions can be up here.

0:10:45 > 0:10:49Yes, they can. You have to treat the hills with respect.

0:10:50 > 0:10:53'The Berwyns also kept an English invasion at bay.

0:10:53 > 0:10:59'When King Henry II marched his army up here to invade Gwynedd in 1165,

0:10:59 > 0:11:03'they were struck by bad weather and hundreds died -

0:11:03 > 0:11:04'and this was in August!'

0:11:04 > 0:11:06Come on, Koobie.

0:11:06 > 0:11:09Well, there we are. They're in the water again, Derek.

0:11:09 > 0:11:10They love it, don't they?

0:11:10 > 0:11:11Keeping their hooves clean.

0:11:11 > 0:11:14Yeah, keeping them nice and clean and cool.

0:11:15 > 0:11:17And talking about having a paddle

0:11:17 > 0:11:20or something a bit more than a paddle, have a look down there.

0:11:20 > 0:11:22See that deep pool there?

0:11:22 > 0:11:24- Yeah.- And the stone walls coming down toward it.

0:11:24 > 0:11:27Oh, yeah. What's that been done for?

0:11:27 > 0:11:29- Sheep.- Sheep?- Washing them.

0:11:29 > 0:11:31- Sheep bath?- Yeah, sheep bath,

0:11:31 > 0:11:33to get some of the oil out of the fleece

0:11:33 > 0:11:34before they hand-sheared them.

0:11:34 > 0:11:37- I bet the water is cold. - I bet it's really cold.

0:11:38 > 0:11:39Come on.

0:11:50 > 0:11:53- So how are you enjoying your llama? - I'm really enjoying it.

0:11:53 > 0:11:54Me and Eddie have bonded.

0:11:54 > 0:11:57I think you have. I think he really likes you.

0:11:57 > 0:12:00'It's amazing how much I've enjoyed walking with Eddie.

0:12:00 > 0:12:05'He is such a character and great fun to have around.'

0:12:11 > 0:12:13Well, we're not far from the top now, Derek.

0:12:13 > 0:12:15It's just up there - the Nant Wilym Pass.

0:12:17 > 0:12:19'As we near the top of Nant Rhyd Wilym Pass,

0:12:19 > 0:12:23'We stop to catch our breath and Carol tells me

0:12:23 > 0:12:26'why this path is more famous by another name.'

0:12:26 > 0:12:31This path is more commonly known as Wayfarer.

0:12:31 > 0:12:35This is Wayfarer. WM Robinson.

0:12:36 > 0:12:38And he was a passionate off-road cyclist,

0:12:38 > 0:12:41right at the beginning of the 20th century.

0:12:41 > 0:12:45'Wayfarer wrote many articles about his cycling adventures

0:12:45 > 0:12:50'and his most famous account was crossing the Berwyns in 1919.'

0:12:50 > 0:12:53This is this pass - artist's impression of the mountains.

0:12:53 > 0:12:56- Look at this mountain. It's covered in snow.- I know.

0:12:56 > 0:12:59- Blimey!- They came over in March. - Look at this!

0:12:59 > 0:13:01- In the snow.- In the snow! Snowstorm.

0:13:01 > 0:13:04From Llanarmon over there, over the pass, down towards Llandrillo,

0:13:04 > 0:13:06against a north-westerly gale.

0:13:06 > 0:13:07And look what he's wearing!

0:13:07 > 0:13:09Yeah, they look like plus-fours, don't they?

0:13:09 > 0:13:11Imagine cycling in those!

0:13:11 > 0:13:14I know. It was the best they had, no doubt!

0:13:14 > 0:13:18And this was the artist's impression, with their heads down.

0:13:18 > 0:13:20They must have been a tough bunch.

0:13:20 > 0:13:23When we get to the top, there is a memorial dedicated to him.

0:13:23 > 0:13:27- I'd like to see that.- Wayfarer. Yeah, let's go and have a look.

0:13:36 > 0:13:40- "Un oedd yn Caru Cymru. A lover of Wales."- Yes.

0:13:40 > 0:13:41Well, open it and have a look.

0:13:41 > 0:13:43'Next to the memorial is a box where

0:13:43 > 0:13:46'passers-by leave comments and trinkets.'

0:13:46 > 0:13:48He was obviously a very popular guy.

0:13:48 > 0:13:49Very popular and still is.

0:13:49 > 0:13:53'So it's only fair that after walking Wayfarer, it's my turn.'

0:13:54 > 0:13:56This is turning into an essay.

0:13:56 > 0:13:57Turning into an essay!

0:13:57 > 0:14:00I'd better mention the weather. "Chilly wind, but dry."

0:14:02 > 0:14:04That's really nice.

0:14:07 > 0:14:08Righto.

0:14:08 > 0:14:10Picnic time.

0:14:12 > 0:14:13# Glory hallelujah... #

0:14:15 > 0:14:17'But before we head back down to Llandrillo,

0:14:17 > 0:14:20'it's time for a picnic - and what a spot!

0:14:20 > 0:14:24'Just check out those views across the Berwyn Mountains.'

0:14:24 > 0:14:29# And I'm a sitting on top of the world... #

0:14:29 > 0:14:30Well, Carol, I've got to admit,

0:14:30 > 0:14:33I wasn't sure about walking with llamas, but I've got to say,

0:14:33 > 0:14:35I've really enjoyed it,

0:14:35 > 0:14:38and the best bit is - I didn't have to carry my lunch!

0:14:38 > 0:14:39CAROL LAUGHS

0:14:39 > 0:14:43So a big thanks to Koobie and Eddie and thank you, Carol and Fran,

0:14:43 > 0:14:47for taking me on a wonderful walk in the Berwyn Mountains.

0:14:47 > 0:14:49Fantastic. I think we deserve this.

0:14:49 > 0:14:50Definitely. We do!

0:14:55 > 0:15:00And if you fancy trying this - or any of our walks - go to our website.

0:15:04 > 0:15:08It's got route information and maps for you to print off or you can

0:15:08 > 0:15:11download it onto your tablet and take it with you.

0:15:14 > 0:15:18Next, I'm at one of the prettiest towns in Wales -

0:15:18 > 0:15:23Tenby in Pembrokeshire, famous for its beaches and winding streets.

0:15:23 > 0:15:26But this walk is going to show me another side to the town,

0:15:26 > 0:15:29with stories of murder and mystery.

0:15:29 > 0:15:33# D'you want to go to the seaside... #

0:15:33 > 0:15:36Tenby is on the south coast of Pembrokeshire.

0:15:38 > 0:15:41My walk starts at Castle Hill, overlooking the harbour,

0:15:41 > 0:15:43before heading down to the South Beach.

0:15:45 > 0:15:48We then cut through the Burrows and the Kiln Park Holiday Centre

0:15:48 > 0:15:51before following paths across field marshlands.

0:15:53 > 0:15:55From the ruins of Scotsborough house,

0:15:55 > 0:15:57we go up through the outskirts of town,

0:15:57 > 0:15:59before walking above the North Beach.

0:16:01 > 0:16:05Then it's to the historic walled town before ending up

0:16:05 > 0:16:09where we started - just over five miles in total.

0:16:11 > 0:16:13Showing me around is Marion Davies.

0:16:13 > 0:16:15She's an official town guide,

0:16:15 > 0:16:18so she knows Tenby like the back of her hand.

0:16:18 > 0:16:21- Hi, Marion.- Hi.- Lovely to meet you.

0:16:21 > 0:16:24- Lovely to meet you, too. - What a fantastic view from up here.

0:16:24 > 0:16:26A little bit grey and murky at the moment,

0:16:26 > 0:16:30- but hopefully it will lift and clear later on.- Yeah, absolutely.

0:16:30 > 0:16:33So, tell me - how long have people been coming to Tenby for?

0:16:33 > 0:16:37Well, of course, Tenby really went through a period of great development during the

0:16:37 > 0:16:40mid-18th century, with the coming of the seawater craze, really.

0:16:40 > 0:16:42So it was the creation of the resort.

0:16:42 > 0:16:44What we're going to do, it's going to take us around the town,

0:16:44 > 0:16:47- but we're going to see a hidden side of Tenby as well.- Yes.

0:16:47 > 0:16:50Some of the places that perhaps visitors don't get to see.

0:16:50 > 0:16:53Locals know but perhaps not so many visitors, really,

0:16:53 > 0:16:55so a little bit of murder and mystery as well.

0:16:55 > 0:16:58- Sounds interesting. Shall we go?- Let's.

0:17:05 > 0:17:09Even on a grey and misty morning, Tenby still looks pretty special

0:17:09 > 0:17:13with its famous multicoloured houses, but it wasn't always that way.

0:17:14 > 0:17:17This colour of this house here, this sort of buff, cream one.

0:17:17 > 0:17:20That's how Tenby would have looked once upon a time,

0:17:20 > 0:17:23when the houses first went up, really.

0:17:23 > 0:17:26Nobody knows, really, which was the first one to suddenly

0:17:26 > 0:17:30change to, you know, a brighter colour.

0:17:30 > 0:17:33Um, it's sort of one of those mysteries, really.

0:17:34 > 0:17:38'Since the 18th century, Tenby has been a magnet for tourists,

0:17:38 > 0:17:41'including well-known writers and artists.'

0:17:41 > 0:17:44Some of the most famous people of their eras, really, came to Tenby,

0:17:44 > 0:17:48people like George Eliot - er, we're going to go down Cob Lane here.

0:17:48 > 0:17:51Er, George Eliot, of course, Daniel Defoe -

0:17:51 > 0:17:53Turner, the famous painter, of course.

0:17:53 > 0:17:56- He came here?- He did, yeah.

0:17:56 > 0:17:59'With all this mist, we could be in a Turner painting today.'

0:18:02 > 0:18:04What's that island called, then?

0:18:04 > 0:18:08Um, that's St Catherine's island over there

0:18:08 > 0:18:11and the strange building at the top, that's actually a Victorian fort.

0:18:11 > 0:18:15It was built there because there was an anticipated attack by the French.

0:18:15 > 0:18:17They thought they were going to land on the beach here.

0:18:17 > 0:18:19It was one of a number of forts that were

0:18:19 > 0:18:22built around the coastline at that time.

0:18:22 > 0:18:23What's it used for now?

0:18:23 > 0:18:26Well, it's in the process of being converted into a tourist attraction,

0:18:26 > 0:18:29which will be a great addition to the town.

0:18:31 > 0:18:34Tenby has two beaches, the North and the South.

0:18:34 > 0:18:37They're amongst the best in the whole of Britain

0:18:37 > 0:18:40and form part of Pembrokeshire's coastal path.

0:18:41 > 0:18:44- So where are we now, Marion? - Well, this is South Beach.

0:18:44 > 0:18:48It's about two miles of golden sands.

0:18:48 > 0:18:51Very quiet today but I bet it gets jam-packed when it's hot and sunny.

0:18:51 > 0:18:54Yeah, very, very busy. Especially at the two ends

0:18:54 > 0:18:57but there's always a little quiet bit in the middle, really.

0:18:57 > 0:19:00And what's this on our right here? Sand dunes?

0:19:00 > 0:19:03This is an area known as the Burrows locally.

0:19:03 > 0:19:07It was actually very heavily mined during the Second World War.

0:19:07 > 0:19:10They used these beaches here, you know,

0:19:10 > 0:19:14- for practising for the D-Day landings.- Really?- Yeah.

0:19:14 > 0:19:16So we're going to leave the beach here now

0:19:16 > 0:19:19and we're going to cut through the Burrows.

0:19:20 > 0:19:25- We're not going to get lost, are we? - No. I've got my map and my compass!

0:19:25 > 0:19:26I'm relying on you!

0:19:29 > 0:19:32# I want to get lost with you

0:19:32 > 0:19:35# It's the only thing I want to do. #

0:19:35 > 0:19:38We leave the beach behind and cut through the Burrows.

0:19:38 > 0:19:41This area was once a tidal estuary, before the railway

0:19:41 > 0:19:46blocked off the river and was a key part of Tenby's maritime trade.

0:19:46 > 0:19:51A sign of the town's industrial past is hidden away in a caravan site.

0:19:51 > 0:19:53'The clue is in the name - Kiln Park.'

0:19:53 > 0:19:59- Well, this is amazing. What is it? - It's a series of lime kilns.

0:19:59 > 0:20:02Immediately behind you, there's actually the Black Rock Quarry

0:20:02 > 0:20:05and they used to take the limestone from there and then layer it

0:20:05 > 0:20:08into the kilns here with coal and it was then burnt

0:20:08 > 0:20:13and the residual powder that was formed was then used to make

0:20:13 > 0:20:16whitewash, for your buildings -

0:20:16 > 0:20:19it would keep it waterproof, it was used for mortar and very

0:20:19 > 0:20:23particularly, it was used as a fertiliser to sweeten acid soils.

0:20:23 > 0:20:26- A little bit hidden away, but... - Very.- ..beautiful building.

0:20:26 > 0:20:30Yeah, it's one of these little industrial gems, really,

0:20:30 > 0:20:31quite hidden away.

0:20:39 > 0:20:42But this is quite a busy road here, so we have to cross carefully.

0:20:42 > 0:20:45But I'm going to take you into the marsh now.

0:20:45 > 0:20:47And look, the low cloud and mist has cleared.

0:20:47 > 0:20:50- Finally. - Blue sky and sunshine.- Perfect!

0:20:56 > 0:20:59You really get a sense of the old marshes here.

0:20:59 > 0:21:02This is really a sort of wet area

0:21:02 > 0:21:04that was flooded as the tide came in.

0:21:04 > 0:21:06It's so different in here, isn't it,

0:21:06 > 0:21:09- away from the hustle and bustle of the beach.- I know.

0:21:09 > 0:21:13It's really lush and green and in fact, this is an ancient

0:21:13 > 0:21:16medieval causeway running right through the marshes here.

0:21:25 > 0:21:29- Well, this is gorgeous.- Yeah, this is the River Ritec, actually.

0:21:29 > 0:21:32It was navigable two miles inland, actually.

0:21:32 > 0:21:35Um, in fact, this beautiful spot belies a terrible murder

0:21:35 > 0:21:37that took place here in 1722.

0:21:37 > 0:21:40Actually, just a little bit further down the river here,

0:21:40 > 0:21:44it was when one of our mayors, actually, of Tenby and his son

0:21:44 > 0:21:47murdered two nephews of the family.

0:21:47 > 0:21:50One was strangled and the other one was mutilated,

0:21:50 > 0:21:53but they were hung for their crimes in London, in fact but

0:21:53 > 0:21:57ever since that time, their ghosts are said to haunt this whole area.

0:21:57 > 0:21:59So you never know what you're going to see.

0:21:59 > 0:22:03- You wouldn't want to come here at night, then.- Absolutely not.

0:22:13 > 0:22:16Careful how you go here. It's really slippery.

0:22:18 > 0:22:20- Ooh!- Ooh!- It is slippery.

0:22:21 > 0:22:26The walk through the marshes is really peaceful and full of wildlife.

0:22:26 > 0:22:30You can even see otters and kingfishers if you're really lucky.

0:22:31 > 0:22:34'Halfway through, you have to cross a busy road.

0:22:35 > 0:22:36'But on the other side,

0:22:36 > 0:22:40'Marion has more of Tenby's hidden history to show me.'

0:22:51 > 0:22:53Looks impressive and spooky.

0:22:53 > 0:22:56Yeah, so this is the ruin of Scotsborough House.

0:22:56 > 0:22:59It was once occupied by the ap Rice family

0:22:59 > 0:23:02and it was said that the ap Rice family of Scotsborough

0:23:02 > 0:23:04and also the Bowens of Trefloyne,

0:23:04 > 0:23:07another great house from over the other side of what was the estuary

0:23:07 > 0:23:11once upon a time, were both involved in wrecking - a terrible business.

0:23:11 > 0:23:14'Wreckers lured ships to their doom.

0:23:14 > 0:23:17'They stole the cargo and often murdered the passengers as well.'

0:23:18 > 0:23:23It was said that a son - the only son from the ap Rice family -

0:23:23 > 0:23:27and a daughter from Trefloyne, had gone over to Ireland,

0:23:27 > 0:23:30were returning back, and wrecked by their own families who then

0:23:30 > 0:23:32found their bodies on the beaches and it was said that

0:23:32 > 0:23:36since that time, the house has fallen into sadness and decay.

0:23:36 > 0:23:38- That's a real sad story.- It is.

0:23:38 > 0:23:41- There's a lot more to Tenby than meets the eye.- Definitely.

0:23:50 > 0:23:54It's been great to find out about Tenby's hidden history

0:23:54 > 0:23:59and as we make our way back to town, I can't wait to soak up the sun

0:23:59 > 0:24:02and get an eyeful of Tenby's beautiful beaches.

0:24:02 > 0:24:07So we're just going to come up here, up onto the Croft, which will start

0:24:07 > 0:24:11to bring us back into Tenby and some lovely views of the harbour.

0:24:11 > 0:24:16# Seaside, whenever you stroll along with me

0:24:16 > 0:24:20# I'm merely contemplating what you feel inside

0:24:20 > 0:24:23# Meanwhile, I asked you to... #

0:24:23 > 0:24:26- Lovely, isn't it? - Absolutely stunning.

0:24:26 > 0:24:30We can see our new lifeboat station off there, behind our old one.

0:24:30 > 0:24:32It's actually the fifth in Tenby.

0:24:32 > 0:24:34Very proud history of lifeboat service.

0:24:34 > 0:24:36- Nice little harbour.- Beautiful.

0:24:36 > 0:24:38You can see, I mean, it's very sheltered here.

0:24:38 > 0:24:41You can see why it would have been the ideal location, really.

0:24:41 > 0:24:44And in fact, this area was very much favoured

0:24:44 > 0:24:47at the development of the tourist industry, really,

0:24:47 > 0:24:49because it compared very favourably with the Bay of Naples

0:24:49 > 0:24:52and in fact, Tenby was known as the Naples of Wales for years.

0:24:52 > 0:24:55- We could be abroad, couldn't we? - I know, we could be.

0:24:57 > 0:25:01# Write to me from Naples

0:25:04 > 0:25:09# Write me every day... #

0:25:11 > 0:25:15Tenby is one of the most complete walled towns in the whole of Wales.

0:25:15 > 0:25:18The walls date back to the 1260s.

0:25:18 > 0:25:21Must have had some good builders then!

0:25:21 > 0:25:25- Well, this is very impressive. - Yes. It's known locally as the Five Arches.

0:25:25 > 0:25:29It was one of the main entrances into the walled town.

0:25:29 > 0:25:33It dates back to 1328, thereabouts, and a formidable defence, really.

0:25:33 > 0:25:35Are we going into the town now?

0:25:35 > 0:25:37We are. Let's go into the walled part of the town.

0:25:37 > 0:25:43'We were filming in Tenby on a sunny day at the start of the school holidays, so the town was packed.

0:25:43 > 0:25:47'But Marian took me for a break into St Mary's Church,

0:25:47 > 0:25:50'an oasis of quiet amongst all the bustle.'

0:25:50 > 0:25:53It's actually the largest medieval parish church in Wales, you know.

0:25:53 > 0:25:55We're going to go and have a look in there.

0:26:06 > 0:26:07- It's very light, isn't it?- I know.

0:26:07 > 0:26:10We were quite lucky, because the Victorians made things

0:26:10 > 0:26:13really dark and dour, but this is beautifully light.

0:26:13 > 0:26:16So this is the tomb of the ap Rice family.

0:26:16 > 0:26:20We were actually at their ruinous house at Scotsborough earlier today.

0:26:20 > 0:26:23She was actually only 32 years of age

0:26:23 > 0:26:26and after 12 years of marriage and bearing ten children,

0:26:26 > 0:26:31- she died in childbirth, which is why she is laying on her side there on the pillow.- Ten children!

0:26:31 > 0:26:34I know. You can see the surviving children underneath.

0:26:34 > 0:26:37Three girls and four boys.

0:26:37 > 0:26:39The rest obviously didn't make it.

0:26:42 > 0:26:45I've got something interesting to show you just here.

0:26:45 > 0:26:48It's a plaque to commemorate the life of Robert Recorde.

0:26:48 > 0:26:51He was born here in Tenby sort of circa 1510. Clever man.

0:26:51 > 0:26:54You know, what there was to know about maths

0:26:54 > 0:26:56and science at the time, he knew about it and, in fact,

0:26:56 > 0:26:59he is credited as having invented the equals sign.

0:26:59 > 0:27:03- That's amazing.- I know. Also, they think, plus and minus.

0:27:03 > 0:27:06- Very intelligent, then. - Yeah, very clever.

0:27:06 > 0:27:09'Marion knows everything about Tenby's history.

0:27:09 > 0:27:13'It's definitely starting to add up!'

0:27:13 > 0:27:16Actually, it's quite nice to have this little breeze, isn't it?

0:27:16 > 0:27:20'We're almost back where we started, passing some picturesque views of the harbour.

0:27:20 > 0:27:23'Tenby has always attracted artists,

0:27:23 > 0:27:27'the most famous being brother and sister Augustus and Gwen John,

0:27:27 > 0:27:30'who grew up in the town. So before we finish,

0:27:30 > 0:27:33'we popped into Tenby's museum and art gallery

0:27:33 > 0:27:35'to look at one of Gwen's paintings.'

0:27:36 > 0:27:38It's this picture here by Gwen John.

0:27:38 > 0:27:41She was probably only 20 years of age when she painted this

0:27:41 > 0:27:45and it's unusual, because it's a landscape.

0:27:45 > 0:27:50Normally, she used to paint things like portraits or interiors,

0:27:50 > 0:27:52still lifes, that kind of thing.

0:27:52 > 0:27:56So for it to be of Tenby as well is exceptionally special, really.

0:27:56 > 0:27:59- When was it painted?- About 1896.

0:27:59 > 0:28:03- It looks like they are going for a walk, like us!- Around the harbour!

0:28:03 > 0:28:06Where could be better!

0:28:06 > 0:28:10# Seaside, whenever you stroll along with me

0:28:10 > 0:28:15# I'm merely contemplating what you feel inside... #

0:28:15 > 0:28:18Well, thanks very much, Marion, for a wonderful walk

0:28:18 > 0:28:20and for showing me the many different sides to Tenby.

0:28:20 > 0:28:22Oh, thanks so much for coming

0:28:22 > 0:28:26- and I hope you're going to come and visit us in Tenby again.- You bet!

0:28:28 > 0:28:30MUSIC: Seaside Rendezvous by Queen

0:28:46 > 0:28:49# Seaside rendezvous, so adorable

0:28:49 > 0:28:52# Seaside rendezvous, woo-hoo!

0:28:52 > 0:28:55# Seaside rendezvous - give us a kiss! #