0:00:02 > 0:00:04I'm in a small town with a huge name. So, just for you...
0:00:04 > 0:00:07Llanfair - pwllgwyngyll...
0:00:07 > 0:00:09gogerych - wyrndrob...
0:00:09 > 0:00:11wllllantysilio...
0:00:11 > 0:00:12gogogoch.
0:00:12 > 0:00:15Easy! Dim problem.
0:00:36 > 0:00:40This week, I've got two walks at either end of the country.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43Later on, I'll be walking between Caerphilly Castle
0:00:43 > 0:00:46and Castell Coch just outside Cardiff.
0:00:46 > 0:00:51But first I'm on Anglesey at a place with a record-breaking name.
0:00:52 > 0:00:55It also has another big claim to fame.
0:00:55 > 0:01:01Britain's first branch of the Women's Institute was set up right here in 1915.
0:01:01 > 0:01:06And so in their honour, my guides today are three of the WI's finest.
0:01:08 > 0:01:12- Hello, ladies. Sut mae?- Hello, how are you? Welcome to Llanfairpwll.
0:01:12 > 0:01:16- I'm Angela.- Hello, I'm Fiona. Nice to meet you.- Hello, and I'm Glynne.
0:01:16 > 0:01:19So, this is a very special place and where it all started.
0:01:19 > 0:01:23It all started 100 years ago in 1915.
0:01:23 > 0:01:26The WI was founded at the height of the First World War
0:01:26 > 0:01:31to encourage Britain's women to grow and preserve their own food for the war effort.
0:01:31 > 0:01:38And then in 1921, the WI managed to buy this ex-officer's mess
0:01:38 > 0:01:43from Kinmel camp in Bodelwyddan and the WI is still going very, very strong here, as well.
0:01:43 > 0:01:45And you've got a nice little walk lined up for me today?
0:01:45 > 0:01:48- We've got a lovely walk lined up for you, yes.- So, shall we get going?
0:01:48 > 0:01:50- Yeah.- OK, off we go.
0:01:53 > 0:01:58Llanfair PG sits a stone's throw away from the banks of the Menai Strait.
0:01:58 > 0:02:01The walk starts at the home of Britain's first WI,
0:02:01 > 0:02:05before heading down to Pwllfanogl by walking along the waterfront.
0:02:05 > 0:02:10We then pass Nelson's statue, before stopping at the Britannia Bridge.
0:02:10 > 0:02:14Making our way along the Anglesey Coastal Path, we cross a causeway
0:02:14 > 0:02:17to Church Island and finish slap bang in the middle
0:02:17 > 0:02:19of the Menai Suspension Bridge.
0:02:19 > 0:02:24It's a total of 4.3 miles and you can get a bus back to the start.
0:02:25 > 0:02:28Leaving the village, we're on the main road for a bit,
0:02:28 > 0:02:32before turning off and joining the Isle of Anglesey Coastal Path.
0:02:33 > 0:02:35So, when did you three all start walking together?
0:02:35 > 0:02:38Well, it was about three years ago now.
0:02:38 > 0:02:42Each WI were set the challenge to walk the distance
0:02:42 > 0:02:48equivalent from the WI hut in Llanfair PG to the Olympic Stadium,
0:02:48 > 0:02:51which was a total of about 200 miles.
0:02:51 > 0:02:56So, we set up a walking group so that we could complete the challenge.
0:02:56 > 0:03:00- And we've been talking together ever since, really.- Yeah.
0:03:00 > 0:03:03Sometimes, it's just the three of us. The Three Musketeers!
0:03:09 > 0:03:13- I thought we might need to find somewhere to shelter.- Yeah, hoods up!
0:03:13 > 0:03:16The thing is, Anglesea does have a microclimate, doesn't it?
0:03:16 > 0:03:18Does that mean it rains a lot?
0:03:18 > 0:03:22It can be pouring down in Llanfair PG and sunny in Menai Bridge.
0:03:22 > 0:03:23Oh, is that right?
0:03:23 > 0:03:26'How's that for fantastic forecasting!'
0:03:26 > 0:03:30MUSIC: Only Happy When It Rains by Garbage
0:03:32 > 0:03:36But the shower soon passes and we brave a quick detour
0:03:36 > 0:03:38to the little hamlet of Pwllfanogl.
0:03:41 > 0:03:45I'd like to show you this house, Derek. This is Min-Y-Mor.
0:03:45 > 0:03:49This is the house where Kyffin Williams returned back to Anglesey
0:03:49 > 0:03:53- to live in in 1973. - The famous artist?- Yeah.
0:03:53 > 0:03:58This is where he did a lot of those famous paintings - the palette knife style -
0:03:58 > 0:04:03and he had the lovely views across here of the straits and the mountains beyond.
0:04:03 > 0:04:07- And even on a day like this, it's very special here, isn't it?- It is. It really is.
0:04:12 > 0:04:17Kyffin loved the light here so much that his friend the Marques of Anglesey
0:04:17 > 0:04:20adapted this house into a studio for him.
0:04:20 > 0:04:25He painted here for over 30 years until his death in 2006.
0:04:25 > 0:04:29OK, Derek, we're going to go back onto the Anglesey coastal path now,
0:04:29 > 0:04:33we're going to go through this little gate, which always reminds me of the book The Secret Garden.
0:04:33 > 0:04:36Do you remember it? No. It was more of a girl's book really, I suppose.
0:04:36 > 0:04:38HE LAUGHS
0:04:38 > 0:04:42- It's a bit tucked away in here, though.- It is, but it's beautiful.
0:04:42 > 0:04:47Dropping down to the Menai Strait, adds a striking contrast to the walk
0:04:47 > 0:04:50and a glimpse of the first of our bridges.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53- We've got beautiful views of the Britannia Bridge up here.- Oh, Yes.
0:04:53 > 0:04:57Derek, if you want to have a look at it... Pretty impressive, isn't it?
0:04:57 > 0:04:59- Great from this angle. - Yeah, it's lovely.
0:05:01 > 0:05:05But take care when walking down here and stick to the designated route.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09The strait is tidal and high spring tides can cover the path.
0:05:16 > 0:05:19And once again it's time to take cover!
0:05:22 > 0:05:24Well, the weather's closed in again,
0:05:24 > 0:05:27- but would you normally go walking in conditions like this?- Yeah.
0:05:27 > 0:05:31- We usually go in any weather, don't we?- Yes, we turn up, if anyone else turns up, we walk.
0:05:31 > 0:05:34- You're a hardy lot, then?- We are. - Tough as old boots.
0:05:34 > 0:05:36And, of course, it's true what they say,
0:05:36 > 0:05:39"There's no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong clothing."
0:05:39 > 0:05:44- And this is what I call wet rain. - Is there any other kind?- No.
0:05:44 > 0:05:46THEY CHUCKLE
0:05:46 > 0:05:48- Let's carry on.- OK.
0:05:48 > 0:05:53MUSIC: Raindrops Keep Fallin' On My Head by BJ Thomas
0:05:57 > 0:06:03- Quite nice walking on the seaweed, isn't it?- Yes.- All squelchy and you can hear it popping.
0:06:03 > 0:06:07'Next, we walk past a statue to a British hero.
0:06:07 > 0:06:09'It's not as big as the one in Trafalgar Square,
0:06:09 > 0:06:13'but this Nelson's column is still pretty impressive.
0:06:13 > 0:06:18'Nelson called the Menai Strait, "One of the most treacherous stretches of sea in the world."
0:06:18 > 0:06:21'And coming from him, that's really saying something.'
0:06:25 > 0:06:29Just beyond Nelson's statue, we reach the first of our two bridges,
0:06:29 > 0:06:32the Britannia Bridge. Before we look at the bridge itself,
0:06:32 > 0:06:36Fiona, Glynne and Angela have a surprising bit of history to show me.
0:06:39 > 0:06:43- It's like we're the Army!- Yes! It is!
0:06:45 > 0:06:49Well, here we are, Derek. We're now underneath the Britannia Bridge.
0:06:49 > 0:06:51The best views are down that way,
0:06:51 > 0:06:55but I want to show you something first, so head this way.
0:06:55 > 0:06:59MUSIC: The Lion Sleeps Tonight by Tight Fit
0:06:59 > 0:07:03- Well, Derek. Did you know that we had lions?- What? Lions here?
0:07:03 > 0:07:05- Yes.- No way!- Yes.
0:07:05 > 0:07:11And there's been a poem written about them, as well. By a local poet called John Evans.
0:07:11 > 0:07:15Pedwar llew tew, heb ddim blew... Two fat lions without any hair...
0:07:15 > 0:07:20Dau 'ochr yma, dau 'ochr drew... Two over here and two over there.
0:07:20 > 0:07:24- Two a bald, fat lions here? I don't believe it!- Yeah.- Yeah, absolutely.
0:07:24 > 0:07:26- Show me.- OK. Watch your back!
0:07:26 > 0:07:32# In the jungle, the mighty jungle the lion sleeps tonight... #
0:07:32 > 0:07:36- And here they are. - They're magnificent, aren't they?
0:07:36 > 0:07:40- What are these doing here, then?- They were here as part of the original Britannia Bridge
0:07:40 > 0:07:44when it was just a single railway line and people on the train
0:07:44 > 0:07:46could see them as they were coming over the bridge.
0:07:46 > 0:07:50But unfortunately they can't be seen by people driving over the bridge,
0:07:50 > 0:07:54which has been built since. So, it's a real shame that they're just hidden down here.
0:07:54 > 0:07:58- That's a real pity, isn't it?- It is. - It is.- It would be lovely to see them again.
0:07:58 > 0:08:01Do you think there's any chance maybe they could raise them up?
0:08:01 > 0:08:04Well, there's a lot of people who'd like to see them raised up, but I think it's the cost
0:08:04 > 0:08:07and maybe they're a bit too fragile to move.
0:08:07 > 0:08:10But whether that will ever happen in our lifetime, we don't know.
0:08:13 > 0:08:18The Bridge now carries cars and trains, but when it was built in 1850
0:08:18 > 0:08:20it was a pioneering railway bridge,
0:08:20 > 0:08:24taking passengers across the Strait and onwards to Ireland.
0:08:24 > 0:08:30Unfortunately, Derek, the bridge looks nothing like it did in 1850.
0:08:30 > 0:08:34I've got some photos with me to show you what it looked like
0:08:34 > 0:08:39when it was finished. If you can see there, Derek,
0:08:39 > 0:08:43it didn't have the road on the top and it also didn't have these arches,
0:08:43 > 0:08:48Which actually made it look quite plain, but very, very smart.
0:08:48 > 0:08:50The tubular design was revolutionary
0:08:50 > 0:08:56and lasted over 100 years until one fateful night in May, 1970.
0:08:57 > 0:09:02'The famous tubular bridge that had stood for so long was now ablaze.
0:09:02 > 0:09:05FIRE ROARS
0:09:05 > 0:09:08'The fire had been started by a group of youths
0:09:08 > 0:09:11'playing about in one of the tubular bridges - an accident,
0:09:11 > 0:09:14'but what an accident it proved to be.'
0:09:18 > 0:09:22The bridge had to be completely rebuilt, with the road deck on top added later
0:09:22 > 0:09:24and the railway running underneath.
0:09:24 > 0:09:29They've certainly done a good job in rebuilding it and it looks very impressive today.
0:09:29 > 0:09:32It does, Derek. Yeah. Right, let's move on.
0:09:38 > 0:09:42This stretch of water between the two bridges is known as The Swellies
0:09:42 > 0:09:45and is the most treacherous section of the Menai Strait.
0:09:45 > 0:09:49And in one of those kayaks, I'd soon be up the creek without a paddle!
0:09:57 > 0:10:01- I told you it was going to brighten up.- You were right!
0:10:01 > 0:10:03For once!
0:10:06 > 0:10:08The path takes us through Coed Mor
0:10:08 > 0:10:12with magical glimpses of our final destination,
0:10:12 > 0:10:14the Menai Suspension Bridge.
0:10:24 > 0:10:28And there's even time for a quick stop to enjoy the fruits of our labour
0:10:28 > 0:10:31and do a spot of bird-watching.
0:10:33 > 0:10:38- Look at that view! I should've bought my binoculars.- Yes, you should have done!
0:10:38 > 0:10:43It's a wonderful sight and look - there's a seal in the water, as well!
0:10:44 > 0:10:47I could sit here all day, but we've still got to finish the walk, haven't we?
0:10:47 > 0:10:51- We have.- So, don't get too comfy! - Right, come on then.
0:10:51 > 0:10:53Get a wriggle on.
0:10:53 > 0:11:00MUSIC: Sunshine On A Rainy Day by Zoe
0:11:19 > 0:11:22We've almost reached the Menai Suspension bridge,
0:11:22 > 0:11:26but there's still time to visit a sacred site surrounded by water.
0:11:28 > 0:11:33And this, Derek, is an ancient causeway leading to Church Island.
0:11:35 > 0:11:38- A very pretty spot on Anglesey. - It looks it.
0:11:44 > 0:11:48- What a wonderful place to have a church.- Yeah, it's a lovely place.
0:11:48 > 0:11:50It's one of my favourite places on Anglesey.
0:11:51 > 0:11:55There's been a church on the island since the 7th century
0:11:55 > 0:11:57and it's dedicated to Saint Tysilio.
0:11:58 > 0:12:00Well, this is awesome!
0:12:00 > 0:12:05I think, Derek, this is the best place to view the two bridges.
0:12:05 > 0:12:09The Britannia Bridge and Telford suspension bridge.
0:12:09 > 0:12:12It's also a great spot to keep an eye on the weather.
0:12:12 > 0:12:14The next front is moving in from the Atlantic.
0:12:14 > 0:12:18- So, maybe we should head towards the Menai Bridge.- Yeah, let's get going.
0:12:18 > 0:12:20Yeah.
0:12:20 > 0:12:23Our final leg takes us along the Belgian Promenade,
0:12:23 > 0:12:28named after the Belgian war refugees who built it in 1916
0:12:28 > 0:12:30as a thank you for their warm welcome here.
0:12:33 > 0:12:38And finally we reach the superstar of suspension bridges.
0:12:38 > 0:12:42Can you imagine what it must have been like to build something like this?
0:12:44 > 0:12:47Thomas Telford's Menai Suspension Bridge
0:12:47 > 0:12:49was the largest of its kind in the world
0:12:49 > 0:12:52and an amazing feat of engineering.
0:12:52 > 0:12:57Built after Great Britain and Ireland were brought together to become the United Kingdom.
0:12:57 > 0:13:00The Act of Union had been signed in 1801
0:13:00 > 0:13:04and the politicians et cetera needed to get from Ireland to Holyhead
0:13:04 > 0:13:08and down to London on a much safer and quicker route.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11Now, before they had the bridge, there was lots of ferries
0:13:11 > 0:13:15going backwards and forwards from the mainland to Menai Bridge
0:13:15 > 0:13:17and it was dangerous, people died, et cetera.
0:13:17 > 0:13:21So Telford was commissioned to improve the road - which he did -
0:13:21 > 0:13:23and that was the easy bit.
0:13:23 > 0:13:26Then he had this structure to contend with
0:13:26 > 0:13:27and it was no mean feat.
0:13:27 > 0:13:30It took from 1819
0:13:30 > 0:13:33to 1826 to build.
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- So, how would you fancy taking a closer look?- I think so, yes.
0:13:36 > 0:13:38Yeah - quick, before the rain comes!
0:13:42 > 0:13:46Telford's Menai Suspension Bridge was his crowning glory
0:13:46 > 0:13:49and at the time, had the world's longest span,
0:13:49 > 0:13:52measuring 176 metres.
0:13:52 > 0:13:57The 16 huge chains each weigh 121 tonnes
0:13:57 > 0:14:01and it also needed to be high, with a 100ft clearance
0:14:01 > 0:14:04to allow the tall ships of the time to sail underneath.
0:14:11 > 0:14:15Well, here we are, Derek. We've made it. We're at the end of our walk, on the bridge.
0:14:15 > 0:14:19Thank you so much, ladies, for showing me this wonderful walk between two bridges.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22A walk that's full of history,
0:14:22 > 0:14:25scenery and sheer feats of engineering.
0:14:25 > 0:14:29I'm no Thomas Telford, but I do know a rain cloud when I see one.
0:14:29 > 0:14:32- So, come on, ladies. Let's take cover.- Great!
0:14:34 > 0:14:36And if you fancy trying this
0:14:36 > 0:14:39or another of our walks, go to our website.
0:14:43 > 0:14:46It's got detailed route information and walking maps
0:14:46 > 0:14:48for you to print off.
0:14:48 > 0:14:52Or you can download it onto your tablet and take it with you.
0:14:54 > 0:14:57I've always wanted to be a knight in shining armour.
0:14:57 > 0:14:59Today, I'm on a walk between two castles.
0:14:59 > 0:15:02Caerphilly Castle and Castell Coch.
0:15:02 > 0:15:05Mind you, I'm not sure I can do it in all this lot.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11My quest starts in Caerphilly, north of Cardiff.
0:15:11 > 0:15:14We begin at the castle, before heading up through the town
0:15:14 > 0:15:17and onto the top of Caerphilly Mountain.
0:15:17 > 0:15:21From there we follow the Ridgeway path passing an old Roman road,
0:15:21 > 0:15:25before heading along the sculpture trail in Fforest Fawr.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28Finally, we arrive at Castell Coch
0:15:28 > 0:15:30just outside the village of Tongwynlais.
0:15:30 > 0:15:33It's just over four and a half miles
0:15:33 > 0:15:36and there's a bus that takes you back to Caerphilly.
0:15:38 > 0:15:41Pointing me in the right direction is Andy Jenkins.
0:15:41 > 0:15:45He comes from Caerphilly and works as a guide at Castell Coch.
0:15:45 > 0:15:48He's also an expert on medieval combat.
0:15:50 > 0:15:53- Hi, Andy. Great to meet you.- Lovely to meet you, too. How's things?
0:15:53 > 0:15:56All right, thanks. I've got to say, I love this place.
0:15:56 > 0:16:00Well, welcome to Caerphilly Castle. Of course, this is where we're starting from today on our walk,
0:16:00 > 0:16:05- so would you like to go in and take a little look?- I think we should. - I think we should definitely.
0:16:05 > 0:16:10MUSIC: Knights Of Cydonia by Muse
0:16:18 > 0:16:22Caerphilly castle is the second largest castle in the whole of Britain.
0:16:22 > 0:16:26It was built in the 1260s by the Earl of Gloucester, Gilbert de Clare,
0:16:26 > 0:16:29to keep the troublesome Welsh locals at bay.
0:16:29 > 0:16:31He needed to - as soon as it was finished,
0:16:31 > 0:16:35the Welsh attacked and tried to burn it down.
0:16:35 > 0:16:37But Gilbert rebuilt it bigger and better
0:16:37 > 0:16:40and a lot of that still survives today,
0:16:40 > 0:16:42nearly 750 years later.
0:16:44 > 0:16:48- So, which part of the castle is this? - Well, this is actually the original entrance,
0:16:48 > 0:16:50it is the oldest part of the castle.
0:16:50 > 0:16:53And beyond the gates there, that was the frontier. It was all heavily forested,
0:16:53 > 0:16:58so the Welsh lords of Senghenydd had control of that power base.
0:16:58 > 0:17:01- It's a huge castle, isn't it?- It is. I think what's even more amazing
0:17:01 > 0:17:05is that the main bulk of it was actually built within four to five years.
0:17:05 > 0:17:07And for a site of this size - that's quite a feat.
0:17:07 > 0:17:10You know what, we could spend all day here looking around,
0:17:10 > 0:17:14- but we've got a walk to do. - Yeah, we have, haven't we? This way.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17MUSIC: A Kind Of Magic by Queen
0:17:17 > 0:17:21The other thing the castle is famous for is its leaning tower.
0:17:21 > 0:17:25Damaged in the Civil War and then tipped further through subsidence,
0:17:25 > 0:17:29the south east tower actually leans more than the one in Pisa.
0:17:32 > 0:17:35Caerphilly Castle still casts its spell
0:17:35 > 0:17:39and our first stop just up the road has another magical connection.
0:17:40 > 0:17:44- Well, I know who this guy is. I used to love him.- Yes, Tommy Cooper.
0:17:44 > 0:17:47It's a lovely statue. Of course, born in Caerphilly,
0:17:47 > 0:17:52Llwyn Onn Street, in Energleyn. And I think Caerphilly's very proud.
0:17:52 > 0:17:54- Hey, I've got a joke for you. - What's that?
0:17:54 > 0:17:57A guy walks into a doctor's with a strawberry on his head.
0:17:57 > 0:18:00Dr says, "I've got some cream for that." AS TOMMY COOPER: Just like that!
0:18:00 > 0:18:05- I'll tell you what, just like that, we're going to go this way.- OK.
0:18:05 > 0:18:07Caerphilly dates back to Roman times,
0:18:07 > 0:18:10but it was the medieval castle that put it on the map.
0:18:10 > 0:18:14- So, the town grew up around the castle?- It certainly did. If it hadn't have been for the castle
0:18:14 > 0:18:18being built, then the town would never have probably been sited here. It was there to serve
0:18:18 > 0:18:22- as the garrison inside the castle. - And then much later, of course, came the coal mines.- That's right.
0:18:22 > 0:18:25A very important part of the area in general.
0:18:25 > 0:18:30The South Wales coal fields ends here on the escarpment around Caerphilly Mountains.
0:18:30 > 0:18:33So, a lot of mines in the area.
0:18:33 > 0:18:35And you've lived in the town all your life, I bet you've seen
0:18:35 > 0:18:37- a lot of changes over the years. - Yeah, certainly.
0:18:37 > 0:18:40The only parts of old Caerphilly that really exist
0:18:40 > 0:18:42is actually above the shop fronts.
0:18:42 > 0:18:46And that's still where you can find old Caerphilly.
0:18:46 > 0:18:49Before long, we leave the bustle of Caerphilly behind
0:18:49 > 0:18:51and head up into the hills.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54- It's a bit of a steep climb up here. - It is.
0:18:54 > 0:18:55There's no easy way up, I'm afraid.
0:18:55 > 0:19:00But we are going to be cutting off just by here and this is a little bit less steep.
0:19:00 > 0:19:03But we'll be going up on to Caerphilly Mountain then.
0:19:03 > 0:19:07- I bet there's a good view from the top.- Stunning. Absolutely stunning.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12The path takes us past the local golf course,
0:19:12 > 0:19:16but Andy's got this walk off to a T and we carry on climbing up.
0:19:16 > 0:19:19It's hard work, but I like a challenge.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30Oh, wow! That's amazing.
0:19:30 > 0:19:33- Stunning views.- Absolutely gorgeous.
0:19:33 > 0:19:35- Castle down there...- Brilliant.
0:19:35 > 0:19:39It's a perfect location, you can see that, right there in the centre.
0:19:39 > 0:19:41Looking north, we can see the Brecon Beacons
0:19:41 > 0:19:43right across to the Black Mountains.
0:19:43 > 0:19:47It's such an important location, because it is an important communication centre.
0:19:47 > 0:19:50Newport that way, with Cardiff behind us,
0:19:50 > 0:19:52Swansea off down that way.
0:19:52 > 0:19:54And, of course, just beautiful.
0:19:54 > 0:19:57- Amazing. It's worth coming up here, isn't it?- Definitely. Definitely.
0:19:57 > 0:20:02And if we go on just a bit further, there's some other things that I'd like to show you, as well.
0:20:02 > 0:20:06Well, this looks interesting. What is it? Is it Iron Age?
0:20:06 > 0:20:08No. It's far more modern, actually.
0:20:08 > 0:20:10It was done during the Second World War!
0:20:10 > 0:20:12It was actually used by the Home Guard,
0:20:12 > 0:20:14it was their practice trenches.
0:20:14 > 0:20:17I've got a really interesting photograph you might like to have a look at.
0:20:17 > 0:20:20It was taken of my father on Caerphilly Mountain here,
0:20:20 > 0:20:24he's with his auntie and it was taken on the 3rd September, 1939.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27The moment after that photograph was taken,
0:20:27 > 0:20:29my gran came over to the cottage
0:20:29 > 0:20:32and actually said, "We're at war with Germany".
0:20:32 > 0:20:36So, that photograph was taken during the last moments of peace.
0:20:36 > 0:20:40An important day in history and a very thought-provoking photograph.
0:20:40 > 0:20:44MUSIC: On Top Of The World by Imagine Dragons
0:20:54 > 0:20:59And with one last push, we finally reach the top of the mountain.
0:21:06 > 0:21:10Well, the views from here are even better. We can see Cardiff in the distance,
0:21:10 > 0:21:15right across the Bristol Channel, 360 degree views.
0:21:15 > 0:21:18- Absolutely stunning, isn't it? - So, how high are we here?
0:21:18 > 0:21:20It's actually 888 feet.
0:21:21 > 0:21:25The designation to qualify as a mountain is 1,000 feet.
0:21:25 > 0:21:26And of course on Gwaelod-y-Garth,
0:21:26 > 0:21:29they put a little mound there to make it 1,000 feet.
0:21:29 > 0:21:33- Well, that's cheating!- It is. You only have to walk up this mountain to know it's a mountain.
0:21:33 > 0:21:38- You don't need a mound to tell you that.- Yeah, you couldn't call it a hill, could you?- No, certainly not.
0:21:38 > 0:21:41- Caerphilly Mountain sounds better. - Much better. This way, yeah?
0:21:46 > 0:21:49As we descend from the top of Caerphilly Mountain,
0:21:49 > 0:21:53we join the Ridgeway Walk, a popular trail that runs 27 miles
0:21:53 > 0:21:56from Machen to Taff's Well.
0:21:56 > 0:22:00We're heading for Castell Coch, crossing a modern road
0:22:00 > 0:22:02before finding one that's much older.
0:22:04 > 0:22:06Right, I'm just going to stop you up here a second, Derek.
0:22:06 > 0:22:09Because we're actually standing on what was once the Roman road,
0:22:09 > 0:22:12which came from the garrison fort down there in Caerphilly
0:22:12 > 0:22:17- and ran all the way to Cardiff.- It looks like an old track to me.- It doesn't look much now, does it?
0:22:17 > 0:22:20But in its heyday, you would have been able to follow this road all the way to Cardiff
0:22:20 > 0:22:24and then you could have jumped on a ship and gone to Rome.
0:22:29 > 0:22:33- So, where are we now?- We're just coming down to a little place called Waunwaelod.
0:22:33 > 0:22:35It's where David Williams was born
0:22:35 > 0:22:39and he actually helped to write the French constitution.
0:22:39 > 0:22:41I've got to say, you certainly know your history, Andy.
0:22:41 > 0:22:45I've always had an interest in history. And not just about the kings and the queens,
0:22:45 > 0:22:49I think about the common person. I think that's far more interesting than personalities.
0:22:49 > 0:22:54- Covers people like me, then! - Yeah, I think we can both class ourselves with that one.
0:22:54 > 0:22:56It can be a bit muddy along here,
0:22:56 > 0:22:59so make sure you wear a good pair of boots.
0:23:00 > 0:23:02Well, this is gorgeous, Andy.
0:23:02 > 0:23:06It's hard to believe we're so close to Cardiff and Caerphilly.
0:23:06 > 0:23:08No, that's right. It's a bit of an oasis, isn't it?
0:23:08 > 0:23:11Just there between it all.
0:23:11 > 0:23:14- And here we are, back out into the sunshine.- It's gorgeous, isn't it?
0:23:21 > 0:23:23Next, it's down some country lanes
0:23:23 > 0:23:26with masses of wild garlic everywhere,
0:23:26 > 0:23:29before going into the Fforest Fawr woodland trail.
0:23:32 > 0:23:35- This looks interesting.- Yes. It's the start of the sculpture trail.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38If we follow it on, there's a lot more as we go into the forest.
0:23:41 > 0:23:45The sculpture trail was opened in 2007 and is designed for children,
0:23:45 > 0:23:49who can follow the clues in the different statues.
0:23:51 > 0:23:56- Well, this is a good one.- It is, isn't it?- It looks like Roy Noble with a toadstool on his head.
0:23:56 > 0:23:57It does a bit, doesn't it?!
0:23:57 > 0:24:00But I think that's the nice thing about it, isn't it? It's very fun.
0:24:00 > 0:24:03It's got to be more fun for families and it makes forests more accessible
0:24:03 > 0:24:06if they're going to survive in the future.
0:24:06 > 0:24:08- Shall we carry on?- Definitely.
0:24:17 > 0:24:21- Well, I didn't realise this was here. What is it?- It's the Three Bears Cave.
0:24:21 > 0:24:24You can see it's called Three Bears Cave because you've got three entrances.
0:24:24 > 0:24:27You've got the mummy Bear, the daddy Bear and the baby Bear.
0:24:27 > 0:24:31- Is it natural, or was there a mine here once?- Well, there was an original system here, I think,
0:24:31 > 0:24:34which was exploited then by miners for different minerals and things.
0:24:34 > 0:24:37- What are these guys doing?- I think they're actually doing training.
0:24:37 > 0:24:42They're the fire service and they train on how to get people out of difficult locations.
0:24:42 > 0:24:46- I reckon they're looking for Goldilocks!- They probably are!
0:24:55 > 0:25:00Fforest Fawr is a really beautiful woodland walk with lots to look at,
0:25:00 > 0:25:05but Andy and I have to keep moving as we've almost got to our Holy Grail,
0:25:05 > 0:25:07Castell Coch.
0:25:07 > 0:25:09Well, we've finally reached the end of our walk.
0:25:09 > 0:25:13- And how spectacular is that? - It's a real gem, isn't it?
0:25:13 > 0:25:16- And it's very often overlooked. - But it's not a real castle, is it?
0:25:16 > 0:25:21- Well, actually, it is. And if you'd like to come with me, I'll show you just how old it is.- OK.
0:25:24 > 0:25:28If we stop here, this is really a good place to chart that early history of the castle.
0:25:28 > 0:25:31If you look at the bottom courses of stonework, they're different to above
0:25:31 > 0:25:34and we think that was put there by the Welsh about 1150.
0:25:34 > 0:25:37But then after that, it reverted to Anglo Norman roughly about 1190.
0:25:37 > 0:25:39You can see it's more dressed.
0:25:39 > 0:25:42If you look over that way towards the glacis, which is that sloped wall,
0:25:42 > 0:25:46that was put there by Gilbert de Clare when he strengthened the side
0:25:46 > 0:25:49before building the second part of Caerphilly.
0:25:49 > 0:25:52So, it's not a fairytale castle at all, and we can actually see
0:25:52 > 0:25:56the different layers of history by the different colours of stone.
0:25:57 > 0:26:00I never realised that Castell Coch was so old,
0:26:00 > 0:26:04but most of the castle was built in the late 19th century
0:26:04 > 0:26:08by the Marquis of Bute as a summer residence. Beats camping!
0:26:13 > 0:26:17- I thought I was going to get stuck coming through there.- Oh, it was gracefully done!
0:26:17 > 0:26:19Too many apple pies!
0:26:19 > 0:26:21THEY LAUGH
0:26:25 > 0:26:28Well, this is lovely. Who designed all this?
0:26:28 > 0:26:31Well, it was actually designed by William Burgess,
0:26:31 > 0:26:34who was a very close friend of the third Marquis of Bute.
0:26:34 > 0:26:38But sadly William Burgess didn't get to see the fruition
0:26:38 > 0:26:42of his work at Castell Coch, because he passed away in 1880
0:26:42 > 0:26:45and this was the first room completed in 1881.
0:26:45 > 0:26:50But even the stencilling on the walls was taken from medieval examples.
0:26:50 > 0:26:53It was very important to keep that theme of the medieval.
0:26:54 > 0:26:57Castell Coch is beautifully decorated,
0:26:57 > 0:27:00but in reality, medieval life was brutal.
0:27:00 > 0:27:04Andy's an expert on this, so he took me out into the courtyard
0:27:04 > 0:27:07to be kitted up in medieval combat gear.
0:27:07 > 0:27:09Right, let's get you all dressed up.
0:27:09 > 0:27:13First of all - arming cap - very important. If you'd like to do it up underneath.
0:27:13 > 0:27:17It also acts like a sponge, to take any sweat away from your brow.
0:27:17 > 0:27:22Then we've got your coif, which is your chainmail balaclava.
0:27:22 > 0:27:24OK there?
0:27:24 > 0:27:28- There you are.- Not too rough! - I'm so used to it, see.
0:27:30 > 0:27:33How about that? If you could just turn that round slightly for me.
0:27:33 > 0:27:36That was a lot easier, wasn't it? See, there's a technique.
0:27:36 > 0:27:39- Does it suit me?- It does, actually. You look very good in that.
0:27:39 > 0:27:44I'll give you this. This is your helm. The eyes really should be in the right place
0:27:44 > 0:27:48and they won't rattle. OK?
0:27:48 > 0:27:51- Do you want to put the gauntlets on? - Why not?
0:27:51 > 0:27:53In for penny, in for a pound.
0:27:53 > 0:27:55We've got this one here.
0:27:56 > 0:27:59It's going to go in on that side. There you are.
0:27:59 > 0:28:03That adds extra weight to the blow that you'll be giving.
0:28:03 > 0:28:05The moment of truth, sir. You've got thy blade.
0:28:05 > 0:28:08Your good and trusty medieval light.
0:28:08 > 0:28:10Four and a half pounds in weight.
0:28:10 > 0:28:14- There you are.- Don't go anywhere without one of these.- A weapon of many uses!
0:28:14 > 0:28:19- Derek The Weatherman is ready to do battle.- Definitely.