The Welsh Way of Life



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We're Welsh, we like a pint -

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it's part of who we are.

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As a focal centre of society, pubs are absolutely vital.

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But we've also got a problem with drink.

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It's one that has divided our nation for 200 years.

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There was more of a feeling that the pub was a den of iniquity

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and there was a devil at the bottom of every glass.

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To understand this love-hate relationship with alcohol

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we have to look at our past and the way that history has changed

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how, when and what we drink in Wales.

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'Drink has always been part of the traditions of Wales.'

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It's believed that brewing was discovered in the Stone Age,

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which takes us back 6,000 years.

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It's been part of our tradition

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for as long as anybody can remember.

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FOLK SONG PLAYS

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'Beer was brewed everywhere

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'and, because it was a domestic normal part of life,

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'it was mainly done by women'

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and they were normally known as ale wives.

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They would brew for the family just like they'd cook for the family.

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'At a time when the diet wasn't too good - water was suspect,

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'milk was suspect as well - and the safe drink,

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'which had alcohol in it, which had hops, which are antiseptic, was beer.

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'Weaker beers were drunk by the whole family including children.'

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Beer was brewed throughout Wales

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because hops and barley grew everywhere.

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But in the south-east of the country,

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there were sweeter ingredients to hand.

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'What's being made here is honest, upright, full-bodied cider.

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'Gallon upon delightful gallon of it.

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'Enough to keep a mini army of farm workers

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'marching stoutly through the harvesting seasons.

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'You might not think so, but there's an art in pulping apples,

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'an odd trick or two when making home-brewed cider

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'with an appeal to the palate.'

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After it's put into the barrel, we generally put...

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an old rabbit or a... rat or a lump of beef...

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'I wouldn't have thought that a rat would have added very much to the flavour.'

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-Oh, yes.

-What does it do for the cider?

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Well, the cider eats the rat...

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You wouldn't see nothing - even a bone - in the bottom of the barrel

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'when the cider starts to work.'

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Drink was a natural part of rural life

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and as such it was embraced by the church.

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'If you look back at the origins of the Congregationalists,

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'Independents, Baptists and so on, they were not instinctively anti-drink.'

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And I'm told, there's a chapel in Bow Street, near Aberystwyth,

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where there's a little niche

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where the minister kept his half pint during his service.

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But when the Industrial Revolution shifted the focus of Welsh life

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from the countryside to the town, attitudes changed.

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Suddenly you had a lot of people gathered together around mines,

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factories, steelworks and so forth.

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'That created a lot more social problems

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'and suddenly drunkenness seemed much more of a problem.'

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I was born in the Duke Of Edinburgh

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and my mother and father kept the Duke Of Edinburgh at Cambridge

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and the East Dock. When they were building the Dowlas Works

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and as kids we'd hear them, "Dad, they're coming."

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He'd go down and open then cos you could hear on the wooden bridge

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the navvies coming, the Irish navvies, who built the docks,

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and they used to be in there a whole day and night.

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He'd just close at night, which some of them, they couldn't stand

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and he'd be there and he'd just close the bar and leave them.

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Then they'd get up in the morning and go to work.

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Building the new industrial Wales was thirsty work.

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Nowhere was this more evident

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than in the pubs that served the Welsh steelworks.

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There was huge long bar and they'd line them up - one pint here,

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another there and another there. They'd be lined up three deep

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'and suddenly the hooter would go, the doors'd open

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'and huge numbers of men would arrive from the steelworks.

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'Sweating like mad, they'd just knock back the first pint,

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'virtually knock back the second and settle on the third.'

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Heavy industries demanded heavy drinking.

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As the pub was becoming the central feature of the new industrial areas,

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that's the very time when a movement arose

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to clamp down on drinking, to try and prevent it all together.

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In the 1830s, the new temperance movement

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found plenty of support for its ethos of moderation

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and self-denial in non-conformist Wales.

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Originally the movement came from America - the idea of temperance.

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You shouldn't overdo it. Indeed they established the Two Pint Club,

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where you could have two pints a night.

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Which if you were working in an ironworks - hot all day -

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you need two pints just to get your liquid back to a normal level.

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So they settled on two pints. Some of the members thought, "Two pints a night,

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"that's 14 pints, let's save them up and have them on Saturday night."

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So the movement began to say, if people can't be temperate, they should stop - cold turkey.

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This was the start of a holy war on drink,

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which would pit the chapels against the brewers

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in a struggle for the soul of the nation.

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The temperance and religious revivals

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that swept the valleys really worried the brewers.

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'Lots of people signed pledges to give up drinking altogether

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'and hung them on their walls. There was this very fervent atmosphere.

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'The dominant form of religion was a rather puritanical Non-conformity.'

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The ides of drinking for pleasure,

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in fact the idea of doing anything for pleasure,

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tended to be frowned upon.

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'But then, of course, a lot of people back-slid

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'and went back to drinking and then another revival would come along

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'and so it would go in sort of waves. Further one way,

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'then there'd be temperance, then there'd be temptation.'

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The high point of the temperance campaign

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was The Sunday Closing Act of 1881.

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The Wales Sunday Closing Act satisfied the calls

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of Methodist preachers for pubs throughout the country

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to close their doors on the Lord's day.

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The Sabbath was now the battlefield

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on which the chapels and the brewers would fight for the next century.

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What a terrible thing it'd be for our children,

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to see people coming from public houses

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when they come out from Sunday school.

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That is what would happen if the public houses were open.

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What kind of a Sunday would it be, sitting in a public house?

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The chapels have far more to offer.

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Remember that thou keep holy the Sabbath day.

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Six days shalt thou labour and do all that thou hast to do,

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but the seventh day is the Sabbath of the Lord thy God.

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'The Sabbath to me is a day to keep holy

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'and do as little work as we can...

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'and a day to go to worship, to chapel, and to worship our God.'

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THEY SING A HYMN

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THE HYMN CONTINUES

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The pubs may have been closed,

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but that didn't mean you couldn't get a drink on a Sunday.

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'If you wanted to drink you'd join the Conservative Club

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'or the Constitutional Club, the working man's club, the rugby club...

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'Any of the dozens of clubs that most small towns in Wales had.

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'There was an exclusivity about Sunday drinking,

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'which was an unhealthy dividing factor in society.'

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I think it did create too, in Wales,

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the notion that we were rather a gang of hypocrites.

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'There were one or two places on the border

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'where half the bar might be in England, half in Wales.

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'There was one on the borders'

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where I think the public bar was in England

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and the lounge bar was in Wales, so officially they weren't supposed to use the lounge bar on a Sunday.

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And some poor fellow went into the lounge bar

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and dropped dead from a heart attack, so they had to drag the corpse down the corridor

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into the public bar in order to prove that they hadn't broken

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the Sunday Closing Laws and that the fellow who'd died

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was quite legitimately drinking in England

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rather than illegitimately in Wales.

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The Sunday Closing Act had been a major victory

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for the Welsh temperance movement.

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And in the first half of the 20th century,

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they found a champion who would carry their cause even further.

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DRUMS BEAT

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'At the First World War, Lloyd George declared,'

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"We have got three enemies in this war - one is Germany,

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"the other is Austria and the third is drink."

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And he had a crusade against drink and he did cut down on the hours.

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'He weakened the level of beer and also he allowed local justices'

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to close virtually when they liked. So that in Cardiganshire,

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Tregaron closed at half past nine. The Aberaeron magistrates closed at ten.

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So that the route between Tregaron and Aberaeron

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was deadly about 9:40 because half the population of Tregaron

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were driving to Aberaeron to get extra drinking.

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These licensing restrictions remained in place

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after the end of the war. But this apparent success for the temperance lobby would prove its undoing.

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With shorter pub opening hours and weaker beer,

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drunkenness and alcohol-related deaths dropped.

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Drink was no longer the great evil that it had been.

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'In the Second World War,'

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the temperance movement again pressed for very heavy restrictions on the industry.

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The Government turned them down. They said, "No, we see beer as vital for maintaining morale.

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"We see the pub as..."

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Someone called it the block house on the home front.

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It was where the community could gather after dark

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and where the heart of the nation would beat strong.

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'Women came out a bit, you know, and it would be a social thing for them when their husbands were away.'

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I suppose they'd put their children to bed

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and they'd go out for an hour on their own.

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'Shandy they'd have or a port and lemon.'

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It was now socially acceptable for women to go to the pub.

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However, they still had to know their place.

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'The men would come in the bar and the wives would go in the cwtsh

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and the men would stay in the bar. When they'd finished they'd call them, "We're ready!"

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Then they'd go off together.

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But while the pub had grown more respectable,

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it was still a no-go area on Sundays.

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The women would queue on Saturday night halfway up the street

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with their flowered jugs and they'd be all in competition -

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who had the nicest jug - for the couple of pints of beer

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for the men for the Sunday.

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'After the war, generally beer and going to the pub was regarded as more acceptable.'

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So things like the Sunday closing were regarded as an anomaly now.

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As popular support for Sunday closing slipped,

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Welsh voters were given the freedom to make up their own minds.

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In 1961, every county in Wales held its own referendum on the issue.

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From now on, these polls would be held every seven years.

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For the Welsh temperance movement, this was the beginning of the end.

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'The vote on Sunday opening is a very clear indicator

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'of the way in which there was a marked decline

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'in respect for the Sabbath. In the first vote in the early '60s,

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'the large urban districts all tried, but the rest of Wales

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'remains very heavily committed in the early '60s'

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to the notion of the sanctity of the Sunday

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and that the peace of the Sunday shouldn't be destroyed

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by drinking people coming out of pubs.

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'But then every seven years, you can see them dropping one by one.'

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'Today, three new chinks have appeared in Wales' alcohol curtain.'

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As a result of the 1968 local option polls Montgomeryshire,

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Denbighshire and, in the far west, Pembrokeshire

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have changed their minds since 1961 and voted to have their public houses open on Sundays.

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'The chairman of the Sunday Opening Council is David Baird Murray.

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-'How does he feel after today's results?'

-I'm obviously delighted.

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This is what we forecast. We thought we'd win these three counties and we've done it.

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'The difference on the map is that while East Wales is completely wet

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'on Sunday now, the patchwork quilt does remain because of Pembrokeshire's wet decision.

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'It'll still be confusing to tourists and travellers

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'that if they cross the border into Cardigan or Carmarthen,

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'they'll find the pub doors closed on Sundays.'

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# There's a little pub in Wales Where they sell the best of ales

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# But if you want a drink on Sunday You will have to wait till Monday

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# Did you ever see? Did you ever see?

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# Did you ever see such a funny thing before? #

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'This is the boundary of Breconshire and here is Glamorgan.

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'The road winds in and out all along the boundary.

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'Here you could have had any number of quick ones at the Mountain here

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'between 12 and 2 PM. But that pub is in Glamorgan, which, of course, is wet.

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'About two miles further along the same road,

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'you would have found the Rose And Crown closed.

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'And a little further on still, you would have come across two pubs,

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'almost opposite each other - the Gwyn Arms and the Tregye Arms -

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'also shut. And at the Berrington Arms you might have heard the licensee say,'

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The corner of my premises is eight foot six from the Glamorgan border.

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'What do you do with yourself on a Sunday?

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'I go down over the border on a Sunday.

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'I'm going down now with a friend of mine...

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'to have a little drink where they're allowed to drink on Sundays,

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'which is 200 yards away.'

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'Montgomeryshire went in the late 1960s,'

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so everybody would go to Machynlleth. There were only seats on the stairs

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in the Black Lion Inn on a Sunday. It was absolutely packed.

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With each referendum, the Sunday closing lobby lost more ground.

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But just as the brewers were conquering their old enemy,

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they found themselves under attack from a new quarter.

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It's ironic, in a way, that when the temperance movement lost its momentum,

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that other things actually hit the brewing industry and the pubs.

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'One was called television, which arrived on a large scale

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'and obviously people started to stay at home at night

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'and watch TV. Ely Brewery even introduced a beer called TV Ale.

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'They introduced it in large flagons hoping that people would buy that... while watching TV at home.'

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The coming of the supermarket made it easier

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and cheaper for us to drink at home.

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And with the growing popularity of nightclubs and restaurants,

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it seemed the very existence of the good old local pub

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was under threat.

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For the Mason's Arms it's D-day.

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D for defence day against a council work squad and its bulldozer

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now crawling inexorably towards this village local.

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'The villagers say they're prepared to stand their ground

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'to prevent the village's social centre being pulled down.

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'And that from today on, they're ready for an instant sit-in

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'to halt the bulldozer in its tracks.

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'The villagers say that if the council's officials

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'try to take over the pub, the lock-in will start and go on.'

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Can I ask you this? If there is a confrontation with the law

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or with council officials, how are you likely to react?

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Well, we are likely to react and if it is the law...

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well, we'll have to get out.

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But otherwise from the law, we shall stay in till the last minute.

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'Meanwhile, the council is playing it cool.'

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They say they're prepared to wait until the regulars -

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who'll be sitting in here soon - run out of patience,

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out of time and out of beer.

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The classic ingredients of every successful siege.

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Perhaps the most fascinating side of this battle now

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will be to see which of those supplies runs out first,

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before there's final capitulation.

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This is David Allen reporting from the Mason's Arms in Pembrokeshire.

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'A lot of the family local brewers looked at the industry

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'and decided to get out of the business and sell up.

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'You had in the early 1960s the development of national brewers,

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'who bought up a lot of the local regional brewers.

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'Bass who took over Hancock's and Whitbread who took over Rhymney'

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and Ely and Evan Evans Bevan at Neath.

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They really built up huge dominance in the market.

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This modernisation of the industry would change what we drank in Wales.

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Traditional cask ales had demanded care on the part of the landlord.

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'Often you had an awful smell coming from pumps

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'because they didn't wash their pipes.

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'And then, of course, you've got the keg bitter - coming in and turn on a tap.

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'That was considered very grand.'

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Keg beer was, essentially, like bottled beer

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but in a larger container, which you could serve on draft.

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It's beer which has been matured in the brewery

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rather than maturing in the cellar.

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'Whereas before each area had its local beer and its local style,

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'you now had national keg beers - Watney's Red Barrel,

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'Whitbread Tankard and Double Diamond.'

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We've got Wandworth Six X, Foster's Best Bitter, Archer's Best Bitter...

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'Then you had CAMRA, the real ale people, coming in and saying this was appalling,

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'you need to have it on the pump and carefully looked after in cellars and so on.

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'That was a very constructive revolution, I think.'

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-..On Sunday. If you are...

-While brewing underwent a revolution,

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the Welsh chapels were still fighting a losing battle to keep Sunday special.

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In 1975 - seven years after the last referendum -

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Non-conformist ministers took to the streets of Narbeth.

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If they want to open, leave them open.

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-That's you, that's your...

-That is my point of view.

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We have a lot of young people who are being influenced

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to take intoxicants and it's the bad example...

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We know very well that smoking is, especially cigarette smoking as you are now,

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is harmful. We're definitely told that and yet you have a choice.

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-And you don't drink heavily?

-Well, I have a few, like.

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-But a few only...

-That's your pleasure?

-That's our pleasure.

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-You wouldn't sign this for the sake of the future generation?

-No, no.

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-You wouldn't?

-No.

-In the name of Jesus?

-No.

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By the time the votes in this latest poll have been cast and counted,

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Wales was even wetter.

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We were now happy to turn our backs on our Non-conformist heritage

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and embrace more exotic influences.

0:21:020:21:05

CARIBBEAN MUSIC PLAYS

0:21:050:21:08

'Not the South Sea Island Bar of the London Hilton,

0:21:160:21:20

'but a sedate Gala hotel, for cocktails are now a serious business.

0:21:200:21:24

'So serious that this event is a contest to see

0:21:240:21:27

'which local bartender can shake out the best gin-based concoction.

0:21:270:21:31

'Altogether there are six cocktails competing for the taste buds of three judges.

0:21:310:21:36

'The two professionals and one amateur are trying to judge between

0:21:360:21:39

'Smooth Operator, Foxy Lady or even Mumbles Fizz.

0:21:390:21:42

'The winner is Cheryl Edwards with Smooth Operator

0:21:470:21:50

'by a short cocktail stick. It certainly seems a strong mixture.'

0:21:500:21:55

Four measures of gin and Cointreau a dash of cold Carib, and unsweetened orange juice

0:21:550:22:02

-and a dash of egg white.

-'What made you dream that up?'

0:22:020:22:06

I don't really know, I just wanted to use Cointreau actually -

0:22:060:22:09

an orangey-flavour drink.

0:22:090:22:11

By the 1980s, Cointreau was not the only foreign import

0:22:110:22:15

-hitting these shores.

-Then you got the lager invasion.

0:22:150:22:20

Now, lager, in my opinion, is what the human body does to real beer.

0:22:200:22:25

You might as well drink your own productions...as drink lager.

0:22:250:22:28

The problem with lager was that...its image.

0:22:280:22:34

It was initially sold as a temperance drink.

0:22:340:22:36

'It was weaker than the stronger British ales.

0:22:360:22:39

'It was viewed almost like Babycham or something.'

0:22:390:22:43

Any sort of macho man would not be seen dead drinking lager.

0:22:430:22:48

This was about to change,

0:22:480:22:50

as the brewers poured money into the marketing of lager as THE drink

0:22:500:22:53

for the young-man-about-town.

0:22:530:22:55

# I said it was a pity that we had to hurry home

0:22:550:22:58

# Cos her 80-year-old mother was all on her own

0:22:580:23:01

# So she kissed him very nicely And said she'd phone

0:23:010:23:05

# Harp stays sharp to the bottom of the glass

0:23:050:23:08

# Harp stays sharp! #

0:23:080:23:11

It took over straight away with the youngsters.

0:23:110:23:13

Yeah, I remember when they bought Labatts, the Canadian one -

0:23:130:23:18

'that caused a stir and it was absolutely taken by storm

0:23:180:23:23

'when it came over here first.

0:23:230:23:25

'We sold more of that than anything at the time.'

0:23:250:23:29

With lager flooding the country, the Welsh temperance movement finally went under for good.

0:23:290:23:36

Publicans in Dwyfor are gearing up to open their doors on Sundays

0:23:360:23:40

for the first time in 115 years.

0:23:400:23:42

'There was no mistaking the relief felt by publicans in Caernarfon last night.

0:23:420:23:47

'The cheer went up as the last bastion against Sunday drinking fell.

0:23:470:23:51

'It's the end of an era in Dwyfor.

0:23:510:23:54

'From Sunday the pubs will be open in every part of Wales.'

0:23:540:23:57

'People said, "Well, that's that. We'll bury it."'

0:23:590:24:02

So we've jumped from being the most religious or dutiful society to one of the most secular.

0:24:020:24:09

The death of this last relic of the temperance tradition

0:24:090:24:14

coincided with the birth of a new term - binge drinking.

0:24:140:24:19

# ..Don't ask me Why ask me... #

0:24:200:24:22

Fell out with the girlfriend

0:24:260:24:28

and I've come out with the boys to have a good night out.

0:24:280:24:31

-Few drinks, few beers, a dance and a home curry...

-Take me home.

0:24:310:24:37

When you're with your friends you drink

0:24:370:24:39

and maybe you drink too much because your friends are drinking as well.

0:24:390:24:42

I don't drink during the week, only if I'm out with my college friends.

0:24:420:24:47

I drink about eight pints a night or something like that.

0:24:470:24:51

That's how much I drink, depending how I feel.

0:24:510:24:54

Ironically, in the view of some, it was the late temperance movement

0:24:560:25:00

that had helped create our heavy-drinking culture.

0:25:000:25:03

The temperance movement did result in the divorce

0:25:030:25:06

of the practice of eating from the practice of drinking.

0:25:060:25:10

If you go to France in the evening, they probably drank just as much

0:25:100:25:14

'as the wilder elements of Bala or Llanrhos, but they eat with it and they pace themselves.

0:25:140:25:20

'The general practice in much of Wales is to drink

0:25:200:25:23

'as many pints as you can get by 11 o'clock.'

0:25:230:25:26

So you fill yourself up with beer, then you top yourself up with curry

0:25:260:25:29

and the end result is...

0:25:290:25:32

'a rather unsightly activity.'

0:25:320:25:34

'In small towns - Llanrhos, for example, Bala -

0:25:430:25:46

'they can be very rowdy. I've stayed in Bala on a Saturday.

0:25:460:25:48

'Don't think of going to sleep if you're on the Main Street

0:25:480:25:52

'until about quarter to four.'

0:25:520:25:53

This pattern of heavy drinking creates serious problems

0:25:590:26:02

on the streets of Wales.

0:26:020:26:04

'Wrexham after dark - North Wales Police say it's a hotspot

0:26:050:26:10

'for drink-related crime. They believe

0:26:100:26:13

'that they could cut violent crime by half here

0:26:130:26:16

'if they could reduce the amount of alcohol drunk.

0:26:160:26:19

'Combating the increase in binge drinking

0:26:220:26:25

'has called for increasing ingenuity.

0:26:250:26:27

'In Wrexham, last year, police began ordering people who urinate in the street

0:26:270:26:31

'to clean up after them with a water jet.'

0:26:310:26:34

It's simply never been worse.

0:26:340:26:36

There are more people out there, drink is cheaper,

0:26:360:26:38

so people can drink more and our officers

0:26:380:26:41

'are being stretched to their limit, in terms of dealing with the aftermath.'

0:26:410:26:45

The problems created by binge drinking

0:26:450:26:48

reflect a fundamental change in our society.

0:26:480:26:51

On Friday and Saturday nights, Welsh towns and city centres

0:26:510:26:55

are becoming the playground of the young.

0:26:550:26:58

'In city centres, you tend to get pubs taken over

0:26:580:27:03

'by a certain age group and you don't have that cross section

0:27:030:27:07

'of the public, which sort of kept its own social control.'

0:27:070:27:10

When I first started drinking, you'd go in a pub

0:27:100:27:14

and there'd be the older regulars - normally all sat round the bar -

0:27:140:27:19

and you couldn't misbehave because if you did

0:27:190:27:22

it wasn't the landlord who'd tell you off, it was the regulars.

0:27:220:27:25

The young kids were good. They'd come in and know all the old fellas, buy them a pint

0:27:250:27:30

and sit with them for a while and have a chat.

0:27:300:27:32

You now have to have bouncers on the door of pubs -

0:27:400:27:43

you never used to have bouncers on the doors of pubs.

0:27:430:27:46

That's...because it was a self-governing community, the pub.

0:27:460:27:50

I can't understand about these places.

0:27:500:27:54

How they... You see them out sick in town, falling around in the streets

0:27:540:28:00

and young girls... Surely somebody must be there to control them and say, "You've had enough."

0:28:000:28:05

With alcohol now a major health and social issue,

0:28:090:28:12

can it be that we've forgotten the lessons of history?

0:28:120:28:16

By abandoning the legacy of temperance,

0:28:160:28:19

have we released the demon from the bottle?

0:28:190:28:22

There's a terrible lack of discipline in our life, I think.

0:28:220:28:26

We've let things go too far. If we're going to let it go here now,

0:28:260:28:29

our country's going to become more pagan all the time.

0:28:290:28:34

You do feel that things go in circles

0:28:360:28:38

and you're coming back to where drinking is a problem again.

0:28:380:28:44

'Drink is something that has been the ruination of the nation.

0:28:440:28:50

'It's been around an awfully long time.'

0:28:500:28:53

It might be our way for making up for lack of sunshine.

0:28:530:28:56

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 2005

0:29:020:29:05

E-mail [email protected]

0:29:050:29:08

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