A Bolt from the Blue An Island Parish

This is one of Britain's remotest communities -

the tiny island of Barra on the southerly tip of the Outer Hebrides,

off the northwest coast of Scotland.

Whilst fishing underpins day to day life,

most families still have pride in farming their ancestral crofts.

You don't earn a good living from it,

but it's in your blood and what's in your blood you can't change.

You like doing it.

Religion and the Church remain at the very heart of island life.

For his first year in the new job, the local parish priest,

Father John Paul MacKinnon, kept a very low profile.

Now, he's decided it's time to speak up on some controversial issues

threatening the future of his island parish.

If these proposals go ahead,

they're going to be drastic for the community.

The heart's going to be ripped out of the community,

and what are you left with?

You're just left with a rock, the people have all gone.

FERRY HORN

The ferry arrives every day, after a five-hour voyage from the mainland.

It's early spring, so there are a few tourists

alongside the arrival of the supplies

that Barra's tiny population of 1,200 completely rely on.

This is Castlebay on the south of the island,

the only settlement of any size.

It's named after the famous 15th century Kisimul Castle,

the traditional seat of the Clan MacNeil.

Above the little main street, the towering Roman Catholic church

of Our Lady Star of the Sea, built in 1888.

Attached to the side of the church is the home

of Barra's new young parish priest, Father John Paul MacKinnon.

Oh, hole in one!

After a quiet and low-key first year,

Father John Paul believes it's now time for a change of approach.

Well, this year I do have to take it up another level for me.

I'm working my way right through the gears

and I have to take it to another level for me.

And what it is, is to be seen more about.

I've sat back, I've watched, I've listened

and now, the next thing is getting out and about.

So yeah, at times you have to, not be too controversial, because...

You don't want to be too controversial.

But up to a point, you do put your head above the parapet and say,

"Well, if something has to be said, let's say it."

I've got my club in hand and I'm going around using it!

This is one of the most God-fearing communities in Britain

and unlike the more northerly Hebridean islands,

95% of people are Roman Catholic.

Most still go to church every week

and the priest is still at the heart of daily life.

We thank you for counting us worthy to stand in your presence and serve you.

May all of us who share in the body and blood of Christ

be brought together in unity by the Holy Spirit.

One of Father John Paul's most loyal parishioners is Maggie MacKinnon,

better known to the locals as Scraggie Aggie.

She's always worried about his welfare.

You know the best thing for you, Father? Dandelion tea.

Oh, I thought you were going to say, "Get out and mow the grass!"

And nettles!

At low tide, Scraggie Aggie can often be found down on the beach

close to her home.

She's recently come out of hospital after being treated for rheumatism

and has told everyone she's cutting right back on the booze and giving up smoking completely.

MUMBLES TO HERSELF

Loads and loads and loads, down here.

What are you looking for today?

I am looking for, um, I'm going to get more of the mussels and cockles.

Cockles and mussels, alive, alive-o. There you go.

Wow, you've got quite a few.

No, there's not all that many. I want to get some more.

Does Father John Paul... Would he like some?

He's crazy about them anyway, isn't he?

-Mussels? Father John Paul?

-Yeah.

-Are you collecting some for him?

-Well, hopefully, and the cat.

-He hasn't got a housekeeper, has he?

-No.

-He's all alone in that big house.

That's right, aye. He does have a big house.

-So you look after him a little bit.

-Ah, a wee bit.

Because he's such a nice soul and a young one at that.

Scraggie Aggie is not one to just sit back and do nothing.

So, worried about Father John Paul, she's embarking on a little scheme

to try to make his life a wee bit more comfortable.

Islanders have self-sufficiency in their blood.

Most families across Barra and the neighbouring islands

have inherited small crofts, allowing them to put food on their tables

as well as earn some much-needed extra income.

With the recent increase in the price of lamb,

crofters have actually seen their incomes rise a little,

which is why Ronald MacKinnon has some concerns on his hands today.

LAMB BLEATS

Something strange about this one, not making his feet properly.

Come on.

Is there a problem with that one?

There's something not right with him.

It's the way he's trying to get up.

It's a huge lamb.

But it's an hour since it's been born

so he should be making his feet by now.

It's the way his head's going to one side.

Maybe the way he was lying in the womb or something.

And you're sure enough when you see the sheep kicking like that.

Because she knows. He should be up by now.

See? Even she knows.

I need to get a second opinion on this one, I think.

If the lamb can't walk, it'll have to be put down.

In fact, Ronald is the shepherd in charge of the flock

belonging to the church in the next-door parish to Barra

on the island of South Uist.

The parish priest is Father John Paul's colleague and mentor,

Father Roddy MacAuley.

The two priests have become firm friends, with Father Roddy,

along with the retired Father Callum McLellan, always on hand

to help and guide the rookie priest through his first year here.

If we both go down the church, and I'll go in...

OK, OK, I'll come give you a hand.

And to provide companionship to what can be a very lonely job.

-70, plus VAT. Cheers!

-Cheers!

-Slainte.

That's why some news, which has just leaked out across the islands,

has come as a bit of a bombshell to everyone

and particularly, Father John Paul.

No, I just wanted to say that...

I don't know.

It's been a bit of a surprise, I'm a bit stunned myself, but...

Yes, I thought that initially that there will be a bit of a shock

when the news starts spreading when he has to announce in the masses.

Yes, he's a bit sad but he's trying to keep himself,

trying to keep himself going because...

I know exactly how he's feeling.

It is, we're going to be, we're going to miss him,

all the parishioners and priests, we're going to certainly miss him.

Sunday morning service over in Father Roddy's parish

should, normally, be a joyful affair.

What's the news?

Well, actually, the news is that the Bishop's making some changes

within the diocese, clergy changes, and asked me

to move to the mainland, to move to Cuillin Lochaber.

So I'll be leaving the islands,

after 11 years between Daliburgh and Benbecula.

-Did you have any idea this was...

-No, I didn't, I didn't.

It's, you know, a surprise as well but we all know that this is the way

that things work in the priesthood.

GAELIC:

When I stand out in the church and I look down to the pews,

I will say to myself so-and-so sat there,

and I was here for the funeral of so-and-so,

and I've been present at the marriage of so-and-so and so-and-so,

I've baptised their children and whatnot.

But there's always the fear of the unknown.

One of the phrases that has come to mind

is that of lifting the anchor of the boat and putting out to sea again.

It's always hard to leave the security of the parish here.

I know all of the people here very, very well.

It's a chance for me to trust, to entrust my life to God again,

and to say, well God, you've got me this far, help me now.

Father Roddy's a very popular figure in the community

and a much-loved parish priest.

Look at the tan you've got there! Is that a real tan or a fake tan?

Is it a fake tan? Hello there and welcome.

Oh, he's going to be missed. That's definitely.

It will be a shock with Father Roddy.

A bit of a shock to us all.

But I'm afraid that's the profession he's in.

They know when they begin, when they become a priest,

they could be moving anywhere.

Father Roddy's part-time American housekeeper, Sandy,

who also looked after the previous priest,

has already started packing up for him.

I think I shocked him, I went, "No!" like that, "You can't go!"

And, you know, and he just kind of looked at me, so surprisingly

because I've been through this before,

but it was just the shock of the moment, you know?

Then, after a wee bit of a calm down I just said, "When?"

And, you just, you automatically resign yourself to the fact

that this is what happens, you know, in parishes.

He only spoke to me just for a few minutes, because I could really sense in his voice,

he was really struggling to say, "Well, I'm moving."

And yeah, I'm pretty sad about it.

Knowing what a blow Father Roddy's departure is to JP,

Scraggie Aggie's busy on her little project to cheer him up.

Scraggie's hard work comes to the attention of her friend,

Rohill Barry, who runs the only restaurant on the main street.

-Hi, Maggie, how's it going?

-Not too bad.

-I see you're busy there.

-Yes, I am.

-What's this you're up to?

-It's for Father JP.

-Right. A jumper for Father JP?

-A jumper for Father JP.

-Right.

-So he'll be nice and cosy if the weather gets colder,

-so there you go.

-And what colour is it going to be?

A mixture. It's, uh, sort of a tweedy style, isn't it.

Right, yeah, it is indeed.

-So have you got all his measurements, then?

-I have.

-Have you?

-But I think he's expanding all the time.

He's expanding! It's all these curries he's eating in here!

In such a remote place, earning a reliable living is often a struggle.

Islanders have to be resourceful and make the most of what they have.

Angus MacLeod is one of Barra's best-known crofters.

And wherever Angus is, his sons Mickael and little Seamus

are never far away.

Yeah, I've just given them some left-over potatoes.

We had a good crop last year, more than we need,

so rather than let them go to waste we just feed them to the cattle.

It helps, up here, having a bit of land to work.

Whether it's sheep or cattle or just vegetables, you know.

And do they boys give you much help?

Yeah, Mickael planted the potatoes with us the last couple of years.

Um, this fella, he's watching and learning.

He certainly helps himself to the lettuce and the strawberries.

We haven't had many strawberries the last couple of years

because Seamus has had them all, haven't you?

It's mostly salad veg,

plenty of sage,

and we've got the chillies growing a little bit early this year.

Celery, lettuce, cabbage, turnip, radish, leeks, cauliflower...

Like most of the locals, his croft is an absolute necessity

to help him make ends meet.

We can't go to the supermarket or the gardening centre

and buy what we would like to buy, just to put in the ground.

It's quite often we have to plant it ourselves

and we can't come back from the mainland with boot-loads of plants.

You can come home with the seeds but not the plants.

Like most islanders, Angus can't survive on just one job.

He's a leading member of the island's fishing industry,

which in recent years has just about managed to keep its head above water.

Barra has a fleet of seven trawlers which work around the clock.

Just as vitally, right beside the quay is a fish factory

which processes the catches for export.

35 people work here, Barra's biggest employer.

The cash this generates has a trickle-down effect

to virtually every family.

Angus's one wish is to hand his boat down to his sons.

But for that, fishing in these waters needs a reliable future.

My older son, Mickael, he's ten, and he's just fishing-boat crazy.

He's on the internet downloading pictures of all types of trawlers

and fishing vessels.

And he's pretty sure he's going to take over the family business,

but even in the last 27 years I've been fishing,

there have been doubts at times whether we can continue

because of various legislations and restrictions and quota available.

But now there's a further shadow hanging over the industry.

The Scottish Government is considering creating a conservation area

close to Barra's southern coastline which the island fisherman say

is completely unnecessary and will severely restrict their catches.

They fear it could dramatically affect their whole way of life.

The three priests and good friends are putting a brave face

on the shock news of Father Roddy's departure.

In two weeks, he leaves for his new parish on the mainland,

which is near the Highland skiing resort of Fort William.

You know what I'm going to look out for, I think,

-I think I can see you skiing down Ben Nevis...

-No!

..and trying to play the bagpipes at the same time.

Could you give that a bash?

Do you know the other thing, I'm actually petrified of heights.

I do take sugar in my coffee.

Well, I asked you and you didn't say anything(!)

-You should know by this time.

-You always change when you take your...

-No, I always...

-You're always changing!

-Change like the weather!

-Put it in yourself, then!

Well, that's all right, you know, I don't mind. I can manage that.

Are you going to miss Father Roddy?

Yes, I'll miss you and your moods.

Yes, yes, because you are quite moody at times.

And I'll miss your sense of humour, which will be difficult at times.

Yes, I'll miss all of that and I'll miss your fantastic enthusiasms.

The good thing is that we can talk about anything and everything

and often we do.

And that's the beauty of it, we can have our ups and downs,

we can have our rows, but at the end of the day we're brother priests

and we do the best we can to support each other

and encourage each other too.

Just outside, most of the season's new lambs look in fine fettle.

But Ronald has been keeping a careful eye

on the dangerously weak newborn.

-A change.

-Is he going to be OK?

I think so, I just... He's getting there.

-He's definitely firmer on his legs.

-Oh, he's firmer now.

-Because you were a bit worried before.

-I was.

Sometimes there can be something wrong with them,

but, he's still not 100% but he's getting there.

I've seen lambs being born and everything's perfect

but the brain's not there, or something wrong with their legs,

they're not functioning right, and you've got to put it down.

-And you were worried?

-I was worried that, for a while there.

-But you think he's going to be OK?

-Hopefully he'll be all right.

Father Roddy is also preoccupied by his livestock.

He won't be able to take his much-loved and award-winning chickens

with him to his new urban parish on the mainland.

Come on! Come on!

Come on! Come on! Here, my birds!

Come on! Come on!

People are being very, very kind.

The interesting thing, the first thing they heard when I was moving,

people didn't say, "Oh, how do you feel" or anything,

"What are you going to do with the hens?" That was the reaction!

"What are you going to do with the hens?"

Thankfully I've got homes for them all and they're all going to good homes.

What about your prize-winning cockerel, Clarence, that won at the county show?

Well, what I'm going to do, I'm going to have a good feed on Sunday,

and I'm going to cook and carve Clarence on Sunday.

No, I'm not! I'm not! I'm joking. No.

A cruel, a cruel joke!

One of the parishioners is taking Clarence as well. Yeah, yeah.

There's real sadness amongst his parishioners

at Father Roddy's sudden departure.

He's not aware of it yet, but they're busy preparing

for the mother of all farewell parties to see him off in a couple of weeks' time.

Balance, balance, pas de basque.

One and two, three, to the back!

To the left!

Aware that he's about to be left very much alone,

Father John Paul throws himself into work.

Today he has an appointment at the main fishing harbour,

at the north end of the island.

Although he's not quite sure what kind of a reception he'll get.

There's always one of those daft little things

about clergy and boats.

I don't know what, how superstitious it is

but sometimes they don't like the clergy to be aboard your boat.

I don't know if it's like a, some say it's bad luck or something,

so he might just say, "Well, just stay on land, Father,

"I'll stay on the boat."

And, so I just don't know how he's going to...

What he's going to say.

The man he's come to see is the leader

of a key island campaign group.

-Anyone on board?

-Hello, Father! How are you?

Angus MacLeod.

Ah, not too bad, not too bad. Getting there!

I was just wondering, is it all right for me to come aboard?

Certainly, aye, I'll put the kettle on.

-You don't mind me, with priests now coming aboard?

-Not at all, no.

That's what I like to hear,

a man who doesn't care, who trusts in the priest.

You need to go down backwards there.

Excuse the mess, we're mid-painting.

-It's all dry at the moment.

-Do you need a hand?

Oh, always! Always. A hand of God.

Come in, Father. Mind your head.

Oof. Oh, it is tight coming in, but oh, my!

This is a lovely bit of space.

Oh, my, my, this is fairly far advanced from what I thought.

-Well...

-You're technologically gifted here.

That's the problem, it's all very electronic based now,

the navigation side of it at least, and so's the catching.

Father John Paul wants to find out more about the growing row

over the future of the fishing industry here

which has been sparked by a rare coral.

It's found on the seabed around the uninhabited island of Mingulay,

just off Barra's southern coast.

Under pressure to meet EU targets, the Scottish Government's

considering imposing a conservation area here and a ban on fishing.

This has infuriated the local trawlermen, like Angus.

-This is the proposed area.

-That's huge!

-It's a massive area.

-Look at the size of that area.

What are we catching in that area?

Well, certainly, the trawlers it's, it's, prawns,

-it's the tiger species.

-OK.

You know it's a mixed fishery, you can't just select prawns

and press a button on the net that says "Prawns Only Please".

It's a very productive area.

And are people saying huge areas are just coral everywhere?

No, no, there's very small amounts of coral.

The fishermen don't touch that, you know that fine.

Well, firstly, you don't catch fish in coral

and secondly, it can do huge amount of damage to the gear.

The island fishermen argue

since they want to hand their boats on to future generations,

it's in their long-term interests to self-police the fishing.

If you designate an area like this, it's going to have a huge

financial impact on the local community.

Oh, it's going to.

It's a huge area to not be getting any produce from there, no, it's...

It's just another nail in the coffin.

Oof. That's what it sounds like. Just, no, no, no. It's ridiculous.

It's just a big huge knock-on effect for the fishermen

and for the island, for every walk of life, even for me.

I could be thinking people will be leaving,

parishioners moving on and the parish is going down

because people have to move on, maybe move on to the mainland.

And school numbers go down and the threatening of schools, and jobs.

It's just the knock-on effect could be massive.

If I can write a letter or an e-mail to somebody high up in authority,

if I can add a bit more pressure, then I'm happy to do that.

You might upset a few politicians, then?

Oh, I don't mind that. I'm not big into politics.

What's important to me is my parishioners,

many of them are fishermen and I support them.

They are important to me first and foremost, before any politician.

Father Callum, who was born and brought up on the islands,

and has lived here for over 80 years,

is pleased to hear John Paul's entering the fray of local politics.

It's an essential approach

for anyone who's going to be a parish priest

in an island community.

A parish priest has to take up causes that his parishioners

need to be helped along with.

So, I'm very, very pleased to hear that Father John Paul

is waking up, well, maybe that's the wrong word,

is realising that he's in a very special place.

It is right that he should consider himself to be a leader of men.

Scraggie Aggie knows how isolated a priest can feel up here

and that Father John Paul's bold new approach is coming

just at the moment he's losing the support of his best friend, Father Roddy.

TALKS GAELIC TO CAT

She thinks it's time for a radical change in church thinking.

I think that priests should be allowed to marry.

It's only human nature, that's all.

Animals... You don't see a bull going around on its own

and you don't see any other male animal going around on its own.

So, why should priests be exempt?

Why are they to go on their own? They should be allowed to marry!

It's only human nature. Why have them being celibate all the time?

It's no life for a man.

And again, if they were married, the wife could be the housekeeper.

As you say, John Paul hasn't got anybody in the house.

Well, having a wife could save him getting a housekeeper.

-Do you really think the rules should change?

-Oh, definitely.

Definitely, I think so.

-Is that likely to happen?

-I sincerely hope so.

I would love to see it happen.

Have you spoken your mind to people about this?

Mm-hm. Umpteen times.

In the days to come, with Father Roddy's sudden departure,

there are some hasty last-minute preparations

for what promises to be the ceilidh of the year.

With growing concerns over the future of Barra's economy,

the ever-resourceful islanders look for new ways of generating cash.

I shouldn't mention this to you but I do dig the graves here.

But I came up with another idea. I'm opening a mini-campsite.

Father John Paul gives his thoughts on Scraggie Aggie's suggestion

that he should be looking for a wife.

You have to be comfortable in your own self,

comfortable with who you are.

It's a brave woman that can take me on and look after me.