The Pull of the Islands An Island Parish


The Pull of the Islands

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It's the height of the summer season in the Outer Hebrides,

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and all the islanders are making the most of the warm weather

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and the school holidays.

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One small island connected to the southern tip of Barra

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by a causeway is Vatersay. It has a tiny population

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and traditions are at the very heart of the community

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as they have been since the first settlers arrived 100 years ago.

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Today, up at the church,

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the young Catholic priest, Father John Paul,

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is overseeing an important festive occasion.

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A day of great joy and great happiness

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as two of our young girls here in the parish, here on Vatersay,

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make their First Holy Communion.

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95% of this community are Roman Catholic.

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The Body of Christ.

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Sister Marie, now look at those cameras.

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Keeping a watchful eye on the young priest is Sister Marie,

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who is well known and liked by all the islanders.

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In fact, Sister Marie was the first person to welcome Father John Paul

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on his arrival to the islands two years ago.

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-Hi, Sister.

-We'd like to welcome you.

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Thank you very much.

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As well as helping Father John Paul,

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Sister Marie is very involved with all the community, not just the young,

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but also Barra's pensioners

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like oldest islander, 94-year-old Seonaid Campbell,

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who has 13 grandchildren.

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-I've blown it up for you.

-Oh, yes.

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What do you think? That's one of my favourite photographs of you,

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did you know that?

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-I think you were in the Wrens, is that right?

-That's right.

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You were a very pretty girl. You still are though!

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-Thank you very much, Sister Marie.

-You're more than welcome.

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Sister Marie has been living on Barra for 13 years

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and has been a nun for 50 years.

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At an early age, she realised where her future lay.

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I was 21, in case you were wondering how old I was.

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It's very difficult to put into words,

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but I just knew that...that was where I belonged, as a Sister,

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serving the Lord as a Sister.

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I think that was what it would be.

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I've had tough times, of course I have.

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I think, possibly, one of the toughest times

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was when I went home for the first time,

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and my cousin had a new born baby.

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And I just realised, I won't be having any children of my own.

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But, again, I was very blessed and fortunate

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because I came back to the community,

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and I chatted it out with an older Sister.

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And I can't put it into words, but...

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Yeah, it was hard, but...

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..I knew this was the right thing for me.

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Have you ever been in love?

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Ah, surely everybody in their life at some time is in love.

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Erm, but it's how you look at "in love".

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I've loved lots of people and I hope lots of people have loved me too,

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erm, but I don't think I've ever been to the extent

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where I would ever, ever want to change my vowed life.

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Because I made the commitment to Jesus really, basically.

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To the Lord. I think that was my commitment.

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For the last few weeks, Sister Marie's been waiting

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for good weather so she can take Father John Paul

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on a pilgrimage to an even smaller island than Vatersay,

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further off the coast of Barra.

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It's a trip Father John Paul has wanted to do

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ever since he first arrived as its history is very special.

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Over on the next-door parish of Eriskay, on South Uist,

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preparations are well underway for what promises to be

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the wedding of the year.

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The whole island is expected to take part in the celebrations.

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Mother of the bridegroom, Clare MacLeod,

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is looking forward to seeing her family and relations

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who are all returning specially to the island for the big occasion.

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-How many children do you have?

-Five...five.

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Well, there's one here,

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erm, a couple in Glasgow,

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and the boys are at sea.

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Well, as the family grow up,

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it becomes more difficult to get together as a family

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and they're all in different parts of the world,

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so it's very important that we come together for a happy occasion.

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The cheeky wee chap in these photos is getting married soon.

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How quickly time passes.

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You just wonder where the time goes

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and he and his twin brother, they're my babies.

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Lachie, the bridegroom, is expected later today for rehearsals,

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but the flights to the islands are scarce,

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so Clare's hoping he'll make it back in time

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and that the unpredictable Hebridean weather doesn't spoil the big day.

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On the island of Barra, the bad weather is keeping folk inside.

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For the last few months now,

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one of Father John Paul's most loyal parishioners, Maggie Mackinnon,

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better known to her friends as Scraggie Aggie,

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has been preparing a special gift for him.

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Now I'm getting on quite well, actually.

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Better than I thought I would.

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If there were less interruptions, I might get on quicker(!)

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Have you got enough wool, because you were worried about his size?

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I think maybe one... one more will do it.

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-Why do you need more wool?

-Because he's getting a bit rounder(!)

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Poor chap, all he does...

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well, is saying Mass and standing on the altar.

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But he really is, he's an exceptional priest,

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I don't care what anybody says.

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There's never been anyone like him before.

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'Scraggie Aggie has been keeping the final designs under wraps.'

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What are these green marks along the top here?

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That is a surprise.

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Nobody's to know what that is until it's finished...until it's complete.

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I'm not telling anyone.

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It's going to be a surprise.

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She hopes to present Father John Paul

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with the finished jumper any day,

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as long as the island's supply of wool doesn't run out.

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The summer sunshine had been slow to arrive.

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In recent weeks, terrible weather had buffeted the islands

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and for one of the biggest cattle-crofters around, Angus John,

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it had been a big cause for concern.

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I don't know what we're going to do if the bad weather continues.

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You're not going to get the same crop as you had last year.

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I'm not going to get that anyway, because of the weather.

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I'm going to be down, and a way down, and all.

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It's a hell of a situation to be in, to be honest.

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But just a few weeks later

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and at last Angus John's got a reason to smile.

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The sun is out and he hopes it's here to stay

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for the sake his fledgling new business venture,

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a caravan and camping park.

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How does it feel, being part of the tourist industry?

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It's new to me, yes.

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But when I look around and see other folk,

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I think there's a bit of money in it too.

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There are quite a few farmers, crofters and all,

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who diversify to get a bit more money in.

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For crofting alone doesn't... you couldn't live on it.

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Maybe you'll be able to keep the wolf away from the door with crofting,

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but that's all.

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With the campsite business looking up, he's now hoping

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the warmer weather will get to work ripening the silage

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to feed his precious cattle.

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On the nearby island of Eriskay,

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the all-important bridegroom Lachie has made it in the nick of time

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to what is expected to be the mother of all weddings.

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Right.

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Are you feeling a bit nervous about the big moment?

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Um, a wee bit, but not too bad. Yeah.

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What's going through your mind at the moment?

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Er, ach, just trying to get everything done and, er...

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Yeah, just getting everything sorted for tomorrow and get over here

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and have a good night, I hope.

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Lachie's father-in-law to be

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has also brought some very precious cargo.

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-Wow. So this is for the wedding?

-This is for the wedding.

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One of our friends was out fishing.

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The last week he's been out.

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A very, very generous friend.

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He's going to the wedding himself so he'll be expecting a share.

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Only the best for your daughter's wedding then?

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Well, of course, I mean, these are only the smaller ones.

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The bigger ones are coming later.

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Cousins, aunts, uncles and countless friends

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from all over the mainland and adjoining islands

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will be coming back for the wedding

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and for the bride-to-be, Mairi Rodgers, it can't come soon enough.

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It's brilliant, actually.

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I'm so pleased we decided to get married in Eriskay.

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Because everybody's around and everybody's involved,

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and it's making it really good fun and it's making it easy as well,

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and it's such a big day for everybody.

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It's big for us, but it's also... It's been something

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we've been talking about and looking forward to, all of us, for months.

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And on the islands, you're not brought up by your family,

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you're brought up more by the community,

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so it's good to involve everybody as well.

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Not just the immediate family, but the whole community.

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At the heart of this small community is the parish priest Father Callum,

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who will be conducting the service.

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And it's up to him to get the wedding couple relaxed

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before tomorrow's big ceremony.

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In a place like this, where everyone knows everyone so well,

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then the whole island takes part.

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Some of us are very closely related.

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-Are you related to the bride, Mairi?

-Yes.

-You are?

-I am, yes.

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-How?

-Because, er, her grandfather was my first cousin.

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And apart from that, we have the same birthday.

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A few years apart that is.

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-It really is a very close-knit world, here.

-It is, very. Yes.

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Sister Mari's trip with Father John Paul

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to a remote island 12 miles south of Barra

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is a two-hour boat ride not without a few welcome surprises.

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-Look at that!

-Wowee!

-Oh, my goodness!

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Look at that!

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You just wish they would hang around so I could get a good photo of them

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but I can't get their face on the picture.

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They must be a bit camera shy.

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This part of the Outer Hebrides is home to a huge variety of sea life

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who come to feed off the plentiful supply of plankton.

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For Father John Paul, it's proving to be a heavenly trip.

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I mean, there's no words.

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I've got a camera and the photos aren't doing any justice.

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I'm just glad I'm able to see this.

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It's just beautiful. You can't...

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I don't think there's any camera that could pick this up, it's just lovely.

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Absolutely gorgeous.

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It's magnificent, absolutely.

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And to top it all, they get a glimpse of a giant of the sea.

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There he is. There he is.

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Basking sharks are often found around the waters of Barra.

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These harmless creatures spend the summer months here

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before travelling thousands of kilometres to warmer waters

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as winter approaches.

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The island Sister Marie has brought Father John Paul to see

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is called Mingulay.

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Once a thriving community, it hit upon very hard times.

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The island's history dates back thousands of years.

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At the beginning of the 20th century, it was home

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to a small God-fearing community.

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Now, the last time I came, the chapel still had its roof on.

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But it was beginning to slide off.

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The chapel house was below and the church was up on the second floor.

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You could actually go upstairs.

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So when you were here last, there was a wall there.

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Yes, there was. Yes, there was.

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Interesting they went up the stairs for the church.

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Maybe it'd be easier if the church was on the bottom level

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-and the priest...

-Up on the top.

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-Lived up on the top.

-Yeah, yeah.

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He'd have a penthouse,

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looking out over the views of the lovely beach, but...

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-Maybe they went on top because they felt closer to God.

-Maybe.

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This island's eventual demise happened in 1912

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when, after 2,000 years, it was abandoned.

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Life on this remote island was very harsh.

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The families depended on fishing and crofting to make ends meet.

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It was a hand-to-mouth existence.

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There was a community here on Mingulay for many, many years.

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And then towards the turn of the last century,

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life became unsustainable, really.

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The women-folk were left behind, actually, to cope,

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and the young boys would dart round the cliff edges,

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picking up birds' eggs, and fishing.

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But, really, life became just beyond good living.

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So a number of fearless Mingulay men set out to escape poverty

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and seek a more prosperous way of life

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on the uninhabited island of Vatersay,

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which was closer to the mainland

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and there was plenty of fertile land for crofting.

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But their plans to start new lives for their families were thwarted.

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Lady Gordon Cathcart, who owned the island just for sheep -

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it was all the island was used for, Vatersay -

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she objected and the men were actually arrested

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-and put in prison in Edinburgh.

-OK.

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And then I think what happened then

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was that the story hit the newspapers.

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And everybody down in London, they caused a big outcry about it,

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and they went through the court case

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with the backing of a lot of publicity.

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And they won the right to stay on Vatersay, and the crofting rights.

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So that's how Vatersay came to be inhabited by these,

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first of all, the Vatersay - as we call them - Raiders

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and then their families came over from here,

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and I think the last family came from Mingulay, I think in 1912.

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That was the last person to leave.

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-Yes.

-When they had to leave. It must have been really...

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so heart-wrenching, mustn't it?

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-Definitely.

-I know how I feel about Barra.

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It fills you with sadness that you see these buildings people lived in.

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You see it all collapsed and you realise

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people have had to move on and leave this beautiful island.

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and making a huge, huge sacrifice of leaving a church, a school,

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the buildings. They had a lovely community.

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Everyone's hoping and praying that this is something in the past now,

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that all the other islands will just stay where we are,

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keep growing, keep trying to keep our communities together.

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Let's hope and pray that we don't have to go through this again

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on any of the islands again.

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In the name of the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit. Amen.

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These islands and their communities' survival

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have long depended on fishing.

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Over the years, it has just about managed to keep its head above water

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but today its very existence is under threat

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and a tradition handed down from father to son for centuries

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could be wiped out. The Scottish Government is considering

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creating a conservation area

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close to Barra's southern coastline which the island fishermen say

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is completely unnecessary and will severely restrict their catches.

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They fear it could dramatically affect their whole way of life.

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Fisherman Angus MacLeod is chairman of the local campaigning group

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and he's frustrated by the lack of any outcome

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despite long-running negotiations.

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We've been on at this for three years,

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and you feel a bit demoralised here, kind of fighting a losing battle

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because the government and researchers are continuing to proceed

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with what we believe is totally unwanted and unnecessary.

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If the government's proposals go ahead,

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everyone on the islands is aware of the effect it could have

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on families like Alasdair MacNeil's

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If they get their way,

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I'm out of a job. I've got to find something else.

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Because in one of the areas they're thinking of shutting down,

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it's mainly where we fish in the Sound Of Barra there.

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And there's quite a lot of boats, maybe ten boats or more

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that are working in that area alone, just in that small area.

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So that would be ten families that would have to find employment ashore,

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and there just isn't the work ashore.

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The whole community are praying that when the decision is made,

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any day now, it won't threaten their livelihoods.

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Over on the north side of Barra,

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crofter Angus John is inspecting his silage crop,

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which has been blessed with the recent spell of warm weather

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This has come on enormously. It's fantastic.

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I'm really pleased with it.

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As you can see yourself, it's great seed on that.

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So I've no complaints now.

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You look like a very relieved man.

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Yeah, but see how it is just now, it's just ideal.

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See this field here - I've been looking at it, checking it.

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I reckon I'll be up on it this year.

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If I get everything the way it looks,

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I'll be able to sell about 30, 40 bales.

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So instead of looking at a loss,

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I'm looking at few pounds in the pocket now.

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-You're a happy man, Angus.

-Oh, aye.

-You're a happy man.

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No bother. So I'm really happy with this, it's turned out fantastic.

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I can't complain about the man up top

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because he's been good with the crops.

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But Angus John knows that this window of dry weather

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could be short lived

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and he's anxious to harvest his silage as soon as possible.

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A few miles to the north on the island of Eriskay,

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final preparations for the wedding are nearly complete,

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but it's all hands to the pump.

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The wedding couple are expecting

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over 200 relations and close friends,

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and they are taking no chances when it comes to the catering,

0:20:010:20:04

using locally-caught fresh lobster.

0:20:040:20:07

He looks extremely heavy.

0:20:070:20:09

He is very, very heavy. Very heavy.

0:20:090:20:11

Look at the size of him, look at that claw.

0:20:110:20:14

SHE CHUCKLES

0:20:140:20:16

I would say he's quite an old boy - 40, 50, maybe even older.

0:20:160:20:23

-50 years old?!

-Yes, yes.

0:20:230:20:24

I mean look at the size of his... He's really old.

0:20:240:20:27

I had no idea lobsters lived that long.

0:20:270:20:29

Yeah, they do, they can live quite long.

0:20:290:20:31

-CRASHING Whoops!

-Whoops! This one's trying to get away.

0:20:310:20:34

-He's lively.

-Oh, he's trying to get away.

0:20:340:20:37

He is trying to get away, very hard. It's very important, you'll know,

0:20:370:20:41

that they have to be cooked when they're alive.

0:20:410:20:43

They have to be like that in order to make sure they're totally fresh

0:20:430:20:47

and that you don't poison anybody.

0:20:470:20:49

Yeah, I don't know what we're going to do with this baby, right enough

0:20:490:20:52

-You've not got a pot big enough.

-Er...

0:20:520:20:55

Eriskay folk can be very superstitious

0:21:010:21:05

and bride-to-be Mairi's relying on an ancient island tradition

0:21:050:21:08

to improve the chances of sunshine on her big day.

0:21:080:21:12

What are you doing there, Mairi?

0:21:120:21:15

I've just put a statue out.

0:21:150:21:16

It's actually called the Infant Of Prague.

0:21:160:21:19

And people believe in Eriskay that it should bring good weather.

0:21:190:21:23

-So you're hoping this will give you good weather for the wedding?

-Yes.

0:21:230:21:27

The forecast says a bit of rain and a bit of cloud,

0:21:270:21:29

but we're hoping just to brighten up.

0:21:290:21:32

Even for the photos outside church at half past three.

0:21:320:21:35

That would be all we would need.

0:21:350:21:36

Traditions are a huge part of the occasion.

0:21:380:21:41

The happy couple will have to perform in front of hundreds

0:21:410:21:44

of their relations and friends, so practice makes perfect.

0:21:440:21:47

There's so much of a buzz - everybody's around

0:21:490:21:52

and everybody's involved doing things, helping out.

0:21:520:21:55

-It's really exciting.

-No nerves, not even a tiny bit?

0:21:550:21:58

Not yet. I was a wee bit emotional.

0:21:580:22:00

I keep saying I'm going to have to do my crying today

0:22:000:22:03

so I'm not crying on the altar.

0:22:030:22:05

Because, yeah, I can be a bit emotional at weddings.

0:22:050:22:08

CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:22:160:22:18

Back on the island of Barra, the sun is out

0:22:250:22:28

and the dry weather is perfect for cutting hay.

0:22:280:22:31

Cattle crofter Angus John just can't keep the smile off his face.

0:22:310:22:36

It must be one of the most beautiful places to have a croft.

0:22:360:22:39

Oh, aye, well, yes, on a good day!

0:22:390:22:43

On a good day, it is. But on a bad day, I wouldn't say that.

0:22:430:22:49

It can be very wild down here. Oh, yes.

0:22:490:22:53

But you don't think about that on a day like today?

0:22:530:22:55

No, you forget all about it. That's how life is, you see.

0:22:550:22:58

You forget all about it.

0:22:580:23:00

You forget all about your problems,

0:23:000:23:03

everything's going great.

0:23:030:23:04

You see, I love crofting,

0:23:040:23:07

it's in my blood, and this is why.

0:23:070:23:11

When you've been brought up with crofting...

0:23:110:23:14

you know, it's very hard to explain.

0:23:140:23:17

You just, you don't want anything else.

0:23:170:23:21

Angus John's son Ian has come home from work early

0:23:220:23:26

just to help with the harvest.

0:23:260:23:28

I've noticed your son seems to be going a bit faster than you.

0:23:290:23:32

I prefer to go at a steady pace

0:23:320:23:37

but I suppose him being younger

0:23:370:23:39

that they always want to be that wee bit faster.

0:23:390:23:42

Do you think Dad's relying on you taking over the croft one day?

0:23:430:23:46

Och, yes, I don't know if I'll be...

0:23:460:23:49

meet up to his standards, right enough,

0:23:490:23:51

but I'm sure I'll do my best.

0:23:510:23:53

If he wasn't here, I'd be pretty well stuck.

0:23:530:23:57

Saving me a bit of money and all.

0:23:570:23:58

I'd have to have somebody with me, so he saves me a bit of money.

0:23:580:24:02

But I look after him well.

0:24:020:24:04

-Is that true, Ian?

-Yes!

-Well, so-so.

0:24:040:24:06

I'm sure he would manage some way or another.

0:24:060:24:10

It's good to be home doing it. I enjoy doing it so...

0:24:100:24:13

It's good to be home as well to do it and give him a hand doing it.

0:24:130:24:17

The next day, the ferry arrives to collect a special cargo of guests

0:24:200:24:25

all heading out to the island of Eriskay for the big wedding.

0:24:250:24:28

Family relations and friends have all travelled from far and wide

0:24:280:24:32

to get back for the celebrations.

0:24:320:24:34

For Clare MacLeod, the bridegroom's mum,

0:24:340:24:37

it's a huge relief everyone's made it for the special day.

0:24:370:24:41

How are you feeling about today then?

0:24:410:24:43

Very excited. A bit nervous but very excited.

0:24:430:24:46

-You must be proud.

-Yes, yes, very.

0:24:460:24:50

-A few tears later on.

-A few tears.

0:24:500:24:53

A big welcome to all of you who come from wherever you come from

0:24:590:25:04

and, of course, all those of you who've also come from Barra...

0:25:040:25:11

LAUGHTER

0:25:110:25:12

..for this very special occasion.

0:25:120:25:15

Although many islanders move away to the mainland, on important occasions

0:25:220:25:26

the deep sense of tradition and belonging always brings them home.

0:25:260:25:30

This instinct for people to return to this island when they've travelled away,

0:25:300:25:38

-it's still incredibly strong.

-Absolutely.

0:25:380:25:40

I was abroad in the Army, I did six years studying in Italy

0:25:400:25:45

and all that sort of thing.

0:25:450:25:46

After a few weeks, I just got homesick for the islands.

0:25:460:25:51

You just feel... There's a peace, a contentment,

0:25:510:25:56

a fulfilment of some description.

0:25:560:25:59

It's emotional, traditional.

0:25:590:26:01

In the name of the Father and of the Son and of the Holy Spirit,

0:26:010:26:06

the grace and peace of our Lord Jesus Christ be with you all.

0:26:060:26:11

In spite of the fact that so many people now leave the island

0:26:130:26:16

and live in other communities,

0:26:160:26:18

there is still this realisation that getting married,

0:26:180:26:24

it's a social convention, it's still here.

0:26:240:26:28

People want to get the blessing of the church

0:26:280:26:31

and the blessing of their parents and friends and so on.

0:26:310:26:33

That is something which comes from the faith that they have.

0:26:330:26:38

With this ring I wed you, in the name of the Father,

0:26:380:26:42

the Son and the Holy Spirit.

0:26:420:26:45

-Amen.

-Amen.

0:26:480:26:50

LAUGHTER

0:26:500:26:52

I count myself exceptionally lucky to see young people coming back

0:26:570:27:03

and getting married.

0:27:030:27:05

Each generation seems to have its own charm and grace about it.

0:27:050:27:09

As tradition dictates,

0:27:090:27:11

the end of the service is celebrated with the firing of a shotgun.

0:27:110:27:16

But, unfortunately, the Infant Of Prague statue

0:27:190:27:23

that bride Marie was relying on for a bit of sunshine

0:27:230:27:26

is clearly having the day off.

0:27:260:27:28

CHEERING BAGPIPES PLAY

0:27:300:27:33

All the rehearsals have paid off

0:27:500:27:53

as the traditional wedding reel goes without a hitch.

0:27:530:27:57

CHEERING AND APPLAUSE

0:28:050:28:08

And even the weather decides to behave itself

0:28:080:28:11

just in time for the all-important photos.

0:28:110:28:14

In the days to come, the islanders get a chance to voice concerns

0:28:220:28:25

about government proposals which could affect all their livelihoods.

0:28:250:28:30

What you are doing is destroying

0:28:300:28:31

the future opportunities for our children.

0:28:310:28:34

We are listening to what you're saying.

0:28:340:28:37

We've told you a whole lot of reasons why we don't want it,

0:28:370:28:40

you haven't told us any reason why we should.

0:28:400:28:43

And after weeks of waiting,

0:28:430:28:45

Scraggie Aggie finally reveals

0:28:450:28:48

the jumper she's knitted for Father John Paul.

0:28:480:28:50

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0:28:590:29:02

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