Escape from the World's most Dangerous Place


Escape from the World's most Dangerous Place

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Samira Hashi

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is a 21-year-old model.

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I love modelling. It's just so fun,

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Really exciting.

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You can really enjoy yourself,

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and rock on and frock and roll.

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Samira was born in Somalia, East Africa.

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She came to Britain when she was three years old.

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Growing up in London has been fantastic for me.

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It literally has made me believe that

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I can achieve anything in the world.

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But much as she loves the UK,

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Samira has begun to feel cut off from her roots.

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As I've grown older,

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I've started to realise that there is a part of me that's missing.

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Everybody seems to say to me, "You're British."

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I'm like, "What do you mean I'm British? I'm Somali."

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And they're like, "No, you're British."

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I'm confused.com.

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I'm so confused.

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Now Samira is going back to Somalia

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to find the answers she's looking for.

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But how will the girl from London

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cope in the most dangerous place in the world?

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Somalia has been in a bloody civil war

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for as long as Samira has been alive.

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With no stable government for over twenty years,

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it's chaos - a breeding ground, for warlords, pirates,

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and fanatical Islamic terrorists.

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Al-Shabaab, now joined to al-Qaeda, control much of Somalia.

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I am bloody scared.

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There's fighting going on there, as we speak.

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Samira will retrace her mother's footsteps

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as she fled the brutality of the war.

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And she'll meet the people left behind.

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Why did they do that?

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She'll travel back to the refugee camps where she spent

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the first two years of her life, and see first-hand

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a desperate battle for survival.

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It's so hard I just want to, I just want to come home.

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And after eighteen years apart, she has an emotional reunion.

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Dad!

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Will her journey be everything she hopes?

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I'm home! Look how beautiful that is!

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Or will she discover horrors she never imagined?

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They're going to mutilate a six-year-old.

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Does that not make anybody physically sick?

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It's a week until Samira leaves for Somalia,

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and she has a modelling interview to prepare for.

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Oh, look at my pimple!

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Modelling maybe Samira's dream,

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but her revealing poses

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have brought her into conflict with her Muslim religion and her mother.

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She's very thin. I don't like thin.

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I like a little bit chubby.

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You look like broom!

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You look like broom! Cheers(!)

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Those trousers are banging tartan. Grey leather jacket, amazing!

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Oh, my god! It's heart-breaking.

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You know our culture and our religion, it's not our dignity.

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There's worse things that I could be doing, basically, in London.

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I could be taking drugs.

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I could be a prostitute. Or modelling for Vivien Westwood.

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I will pray for Samira. I will pray for Samira for changing her life.

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Her mom hopes the trip will bring Samira closer to her religion,

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but she knows only too well

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the dangers her daughter will face in Somalia.

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And it wasn't settled 21 years ago, either.

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Clutching ten-day-old Samira and her four sisters,

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she ran from their home in Mogadishu as the war broke out.

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They escaped to a refugee camp where they spent the next two years.

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Everything Samira knows about Somalia

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she's heard from her mum, or seen on the news.

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Now, she wants to see it for herself.

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But there isn't a more dangerous destination she could be going to.

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All I know of Somalia is the war, the violence, famine, drought.

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No government, no system, no law,

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so, I'm like, "Oh, my gosh! Where am I going?"

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Despite her fears, Samira wants to go back

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to understand what her family went through,

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and to see how different life would be if they'd stayed behind.

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-But she needs reassurance.

-I want to here more about it.

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I haven't even thought about it, cos I don't want to think

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what I'm going to see, you know?

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Because if I think about it and I'll just be put off.

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You have a chance to go back to your home country,

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to a place that is suffering.

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It's going to make you a stronger, more in-depth person, as well.

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I think you're going to learn a lot about yourself,

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but if anyone can handle it, you can.

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I don't think so. Samira is emotional like.

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She watches X Factor and she cries.

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The day of departure has arrived.

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Sun-lotion, I've got that. Can't wait for the sun.

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It's not just the risks Samira needs to prepare for.

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She will also be meeting her father,

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who's come and gone throughout her life.

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He wasn't with them when the war began, or in the refugee camps.

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I got my dad something.

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1 Million. I love this perfume.

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And though he did join the family in London,

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he abandoned them for good when Samira was only three years old

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She hasn't seen him since.

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It's been 18 years since I've seen my dad. I don't know what a father is.

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Every child would love to have a father,

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it would change their household,

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but my mum raised me the best way she did,

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but I know our house would be better.

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Quite sad.

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Her mum is worried that the reunion

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won't live up to Samira's expectations.

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It won't close.

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It needs to close. Close!

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Auntie's going.

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-Where?

-Somalia.

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Samira is hoping her trip to Africa will not only answer her questions

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about who she is,

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but also explain why her father left them eighteen years ago.

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So, before going to Somalia to see

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how two decades of war have affected her homeland,

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she'll be stopping off at her father's home town

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of Dire Dawa in Ethiopia.

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I'm excited to see my dad,

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and to see my country.

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After a sixteen hour journey,

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Samira catches a glimpse of the continent where she was born.

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I can see mountains and it just looks so beautiful out there.

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For the first time in eighteen years, Samira is back in Africa.

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It's a huge culture shock.

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It's just crazy.

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I don't know how I'm going to last three weeks.

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The city of Dire Dawa is home to a hundred thousand Somalis,

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who have fled from the chaos in their own country.

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It's one of the poorest areas in the region,

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with an average salary of one pound per day.

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I'm quite shocked there are so many people lying on the floor.

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There are so many kids out. Shouldn't they be at school?

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But for Samira, coming here is the first step

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in understanding her roots.

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She's minutes away from the most important reunion of her life.

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I can't wait to see him but I feel quite emotional.

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Because I haven't seen him in years.

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I have vague memories but it's really hard to remember

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what he actually looks like.

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This is the moment Samira feared would never come.

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Dad! Ahhhhh.

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No. You look very different.

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Yeah.

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Her dad has a new family - a young wife, and three sons.

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Do you know I'm your sister?

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So weird how you look so different, but you do look good.

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No, you look good, for your age, yeah.

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-Sorry, but I'm a huge Arsenal fan. I had to get you Arsenal.

-Arsenal?

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After travelling nearly four thousand miles,

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Samira wants to savour every second of having a father back in her life.

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But she has eighteen years of questions she needs to ask.

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I didn't think I'd see you again.

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Why?

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-Because it's been so long.

-Yeah.

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So, why did you leave, anyway?

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You were in London in the first place. Why?

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-Didn't like it?

-What?

-You didn't like it?

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No.

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Is that the only reason?

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-Got married?

-Yeah.

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Samira and her sisters have always suspected

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that their father was never truly happy with a family of girls.

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Traditionally in Somali culture, the birth of a son is celebrated

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but the birth of a daughter can bring disappointment.

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Did you want boys?

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Is that why you got re-married again?

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Is it to continue the family name, Hashi?

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Yeah.

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Really? Bloody hell.

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My name is Hashi.

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I could have done that for you.

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It's difficult for Samira to accept that her father considered them

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second best when he left them behind in London.

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It was hard.

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-Because of mum.

-Yeah.

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A lifetime apart, and the reunion lasts just an hour.

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Is that how you're going to... give me a shake?

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Yeah.

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I kind of knew it.

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He'd rather have a son than have a daughter.

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And, obviously, he's got boys

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and he said he's going to make two more.

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So, it's like, five girls, five boys, that's my dad for you.

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But...

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..me and my sisters are more than blessed in London.

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My mum's my mum and dad.

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As she leaves Dire Dawa,

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Samira's got some of the answers she was looking for.

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But the journey to understand her birthplace is just beginning.

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I'm used to big planes like, you know, British Airways, easyJet.

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This, me? No.

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And things are about to get a lot tougher.

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She's travelling to a refugee camp like the one her family escaped to

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just ten days after she was born.

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Samira's heading south to the camps near Dolo Ado

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on the Somalia-Ethiopian border.

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But the weather conditions have made it impossible to fly direct.

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The last leg of the journey will be by road.

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Over half a million Somalis are living in refugee camps,

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and more arrive every day.

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They're still fleeing the brutal war,

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and this year's drought has gripped the nation.

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It's a humanitarian disaster.

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The journey to Dolo Ado will take eight hours,

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and will be along some of the worst roads in Ethiopia.

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We are going on the most bumpiest journey.

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I feel like my intestines are going to explode.

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Accidents are common,

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and with no medical facilities for hundreds of miles,

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a small injury can be fatal.

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What's down here?

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As she nears the Somali border, the road becomes impassable.

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The bridge is broken.

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After months of drought, heavy rainfall has finally arrived,

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but that's also caused problems.

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It doesn't look like it's coming out

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and it doesn't look like we're going in.

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No RAC here!

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With only an hour of sunlight left,

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Samira needs to reach the camp before dark.

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This region is known to be occupied by the Islamic terrorist

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group al-Shabaab, and travelling at night can be dangerous.

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Al-Shabaab control large parts of Somalia,

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and has imposed its own form of strict Islamic law.

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Westerners are targeted.

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I've decided to wear a headscarf just to show a bit of respect.

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My mum never really forced us.

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She said it was our choice.

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My sister wears a headscarf. All my aunties, my mum wears a headscarf.

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It's just something that didn't happen with me.

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I love my hair and I want to show it.

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Finally Samira makes it to her accommodation -

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a UN compound in Dolo Ado.

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Earlier this year,

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al-Shabaab kidnapped two aid workers from a refugee camp.

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So, for her own safety,

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Samira will be sleeping in the security of the compound

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a couple of miles from the nearest camp.

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Everyone who arrives is made aware of the risks.

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The UN and the international NGO's face a number of threats,

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armed conflict and terrorism being two of those threats.

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There's a large military presence in the area.

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The Ethiopian National Defence Force,

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generally fighting with al-Shabaab.

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You're only a kilometre and half from Somalia,

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where the Kenyan military were ambushed

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in the middle of a town, three days ago, and at least

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one person's been killed and 11 badly wounded.

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I didn't realise how dangerous this place is.

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It's actually really dangerous to be here.

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There's barbed wires everywhere.

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Checking cars before they come in.

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There's armed police officers outside.

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I could imagine a bomb being thrown into this compound

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and just blowing it all up.

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And we're going to be here for a few days, which is quite scary.

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Living in the compound means no hot water,

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no electricity, and sharing a tent.

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There's so many bugs, they're massive.

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Yeah, run away from me now, but when I'm sleeping they'll be all over us.

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Tomorrow, Samira will experience, for herself, the conditions

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her family faced in a refugee camp.

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I think it will be very emotional

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because it'll remind me of what

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my mum and my family went through.

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It'll be hard because I'll be like, "Oh, my gosh!

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Did mum actually go through this?"

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The day breaks for the hundred and fifty thousand refugees

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spread across the five camps at Dolo Ado.

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As a child, Samira and her mother spent two years

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living in a camp like this one.

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It's the size of 700 football pitches,

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and there are people everywhere.

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All these people are waiting to be registered, everyone?

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Everyone around here.

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Everyone here is running from the chaos in Somalia.

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Many fled the threat of starvation.

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Others run from the terror of al-Shabaab.

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They killed his children.

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In front of you?

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Like Samira's mother,

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the refugees here left everything they owned behind them.

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They're forced to rely on handouts and whatever they can find.

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A new home made out of sticks,

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or a tent to share.

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How many people live here?

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They're literally sleeping on top of each other.

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The camps provide a sanctuary for the refugees,

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but many die on the journey to get there.

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And they all arrive hungry.

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Just now we've got four kids and they don't have parents.

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They lost their dad and mum and they walked for up to two weeks.

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Aaaaaw!

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The boy looks like he's been through a lot.

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They are traumatised and it's a bit difficult for them to open up.

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You'll make sure that they find something or somewhere?

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Yes, yes, yes, of course.

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Life in the camp couldn't be further away

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from the glamour of the catwalk.

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But Samira is finally starting to understand

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exactly what it's like to be a refugee.

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It's a huge thing for these people to actually be somewhere safe,

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first and foremost.

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These people, here, are either running because they're scared,

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or running because they're starving.

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And it's, like,

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that black and white.

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Samira's presence in the camp has created a stir amongst the children.

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The kids are so cute.

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They've got no entertainment, so the camera, to them,

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is the most exciting thing.

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Samira is visiting the camp's makeshift hospital,

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a half-hour-drive away.

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It's where the most dangerously ill refugees are treated,

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including countless children.

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I feel like I need to be strong.

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If I can't be strong for myself,

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I need to be strong for them but I don't know how it will affect me

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because I've never seen a dying child.

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The hospital is run by the aid organisation,

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Medecins Sans Frontieres.

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This year alone,

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they have treated more than 25,000 patients.

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Malnutrition is the killer.

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More than half of the children entering the camps

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are dangerously ill,

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and up to 200 die every day.

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So, this is the intensive care unit.

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Pretty much, the very sick children are admitted to this unit.

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Caroline is one of the doctors.

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This is a child who was admitted yesterday morning and ever since

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-with real difficulties breathing.

-How old's the baby?

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It's 6 months old,

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Its 3.2 kilos, at 6 months old,

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so that's the weight of a new born in Europe.

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The malnourished children are fed Plumpy'nut - a high-energy,

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protein-rich paste, that's vital in helping them recover.

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But it's also a valuable commodity, and has a high black-market price.

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Some mothers are secretly selling their child's supplies

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to buy other necessities.

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They buy clothes, soap, other food.

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It's a matter of them sometimes not understanding

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-the value of Plumpy'nut.

-Yeah.

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They're not highly educated, so it's difficult for them

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-to understand that this package is medicine for the child.

-Yeah.

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So, the child suffers.

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All the family suffer.

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Everyone suffers.

0:22:500:22:53

It's a desperate act, but for those with nothing,

0:22:540:22:57

it's the only currency they have.

0:22:570:23:00

I was raised in a country where you could go to your local 24-hour shop,

0:23:030:23:08

if you get thirsty or dehydrated or hungry at 3, 4 in the morning.

0:23:080:23:14

There's people here that don't have food for sometimes weeks and months.

0:23:140:23:19

In the 21st century you'd think that everyone would have food

0:23:190:23:24

and shelter but it doesn't really work out like that.

0:23:240:23:29

It's been a tough first day.

0:23:310:23:35

But just when Samira thinks

0:23:350:23:36

she's got through, she meets a mother with a sick child.

0:23:360:23:40

It's too much.

0:23:400:23:43

Two-year-old Kawsar is the same age Samira was

0:23:470:23:49

when she was last in a refugee camp.

0:23:490:23:52

-Stop, crying. It's OK.

-I can't.

0:23:520:23:55

Stop it.

0:23:550:23:56

Kawsar is suffering from an illness that can be treated

0:24:010:24:04

with the technology of a fully equipped hospital.

0:24:040:24:06

But here, his chances are slim.

0:24:060:24:09

Stop it.

0:24:260:24:28

Samira.

0:24:310:24:32

But the baby's in pain.

0:24:370:24:38

Samira's first day at the camp has been difficult,

0:24:440:24:46

and she needs to speak to her mum on a satellite phone.

0:24:460:24:49

Mum, hoo, it's so hard out here.

0:24:490:24:54

It's so hard.

0:24:540:24:55

I don't know how these people do it.

0:24:550:24:58

How do people live like this?

0:24:580:25:00

I don't know how you did it!

0:25:020:25:05

It's so hard. I just want to...

0:25:050:25:08

I just want to come home.

0:25:100:25:12

She's only been in Africa a few days,

0:25:260:25:29

but the experience is already making her think about her life

0:25:290:25:32

as a model in London.

0:25:320:25:34

I was so focussed on one thing that I forgot what was happening around me.

0:25:340:25:38

I was so in tune with my fashion and my modelling.

0:25:380:25:41

I had a goal, I was chasing it. I couldn't care about anything else.

0:25:410:25:45

And then I come here and I'm just like,

0:25:450:25:47

"Oh, my gosh! That's really not that important!"

0:25:470:25:50

This morning Samira is travelling to a refugee camp called Kobe,

0:25:520:25:57

two hours' drive from the UN compound.

0:25:570:26:00

Every trip is potentially dangerous, but today,

0:26:000:26:02

the stakes have been raised.

0:26:020:26:05

Al-Shabaab have heightened the UN targeting.

0:26:080:26:13

UNHCR who we're staying with at the moment

0:26:150:26:18

are top of that list

0:26:180:26:20

so we are actually the top targets at the moment as in UNHCR.

0:26:200:26:24

So we're at a place where that could potentially be attacked?

0:26:240:26:26

Yes, definitely.

0:26:260:26:28

Oh, my gosh!

0:26:280:26:30

Scary.

0:26:300:26:32

The rest of the trip is a nervous one.

0:26:360:26:39

Anything out of the ordinary is a worry for her security team.

0:26:390:26:44

That's odd, isn't it?

0:26:440:26:47

There's an abandoned lorry straddling their side

0:26:480:26:51

of the carriageway,

0:26:510:26:52

and it could be a trap.

0:26:520:26:54

That's a classic ambush thing.

0:26:560:26:58

There's something in the road there and so you have to drive round it

0:26:580:27:01

And there's a bang.

0:27:010:27:03

That's the kind of thing they do.

0:27:030:27:05

Oh, my gosh! Guys, don't scare me.

0:27:050:27:08

Samira is risking her life being here,

0:27:100:27:13

but it's only for a short time.

0:27:130:27:16

The aid workers on the Somali border live under constant threat.

0:27:160:27:19

Dolo Ado is a fairly high risk area.

0:27:210:27:24

There's always what they call an abstract threat

0:27:240:27:27

where something could happen.

0:27:270:27:30

We're very close to the border.

0:27:300:27:32

We tell our base every time we leave

0:27:320:27:34

and every time we come back

0:27:340:27:36

or every time we arrive at another location.

0:27:360:27:38

So, they know what vehicle we're in

0:27:380:27:40

and where we are at any given time,

0:27:400:27:42

we don't move around in the dark, at all.

0:27:420:27:45

They're only providing humanitarian aid,

0:27:490:27:52

but to terrorists, they're not welcome.

0:27:520:27:54

Al-Shabaab wants its own people

0:27:540:27:57

to be in its own country.

0:27:570:27:58

It doesn't take kindly to people fleeing the country

0:27:580:28:01

and organisations

0:28:010:28:03

that offer asylum and assistance

0:28:030:28:06

to people who are running away are therefore not well-received.

0:28:060:28:10

It's over 40 degrees in the camp.

0:28:160:28:18

And there's no escape from the sun.

0:28:180:28:22

But life goes on.

0:28:220:28:24

And while Samira's family were able to leave,

0:28:240:28:27

most of the people who come here never will.

0:28:270:28:30

After 21 years of war,

0:28:300:28:32

going home is not an option

0:28:320:28:33

With makeshift schools and shops,

0:28:370:28:39

they're building a new kind of normality.

0:28:390:28:42

-Maria.

-Maria.

0:28:420:28:44

-Maria.

-Maria.

0:28:440:28:45

-She is.

-She is.

0:28:450:28:47

-She is.

-She is.

0:28:470:28:49

But as Samira takes it all in,

0:28:490:28:52

she realises something else she hadn't expected.

0:28:520:28:54

The more time I spend in the refugee camp,

0:28:540:28:57

the more time I realise that there are so many women and children.

0:28:570:29:02

And there's like, hardly any men.

0:29:040:29:07

I want to know why. Where's all the men?

0:29:080:29:10

If everyone's fleeing, where are the men?

0:29:100:29:13

Where's your husband?

0:29:150:29:16

When he married you,

0:29:300:29:31

shouldn't he have looked after you and the children?

0:29:310:29:34

I just think it's not right, shouldn't happen,

0:29:370:29:41

They're abusing the religion.

0:29:410:29:44

He got married to you.

0:29:440:29:45

You guys have children.

0:29:450:29:47

He should be here.

0:29:470:29:48

In Somalia a man is allowed to have four wives,

0:29:480:29:51

but he must be able to look after and support them all.

0:29:510:29:55

Nearly 90% of this camp is women and children.

0:29:570:30:01

It's wrong because it's like, "Yeah, have sex with you,

0:30:030:30:06

"create four or five babies.

0:30:060:30:08

"Bye, see yous, wouldn't want to be yous."

0:30:080:30:11

It just reminds me of my mum,

0:30:110:30:13

because she was in a refugee camp,

0:30:130:30:16

and dad wasn't there

0:30:160:30:18

and my mum had to go through this without dad,

0:30:180:30:21

It's really sad.

0:30:210:30:23

Without their husbands at the camp, many women are preyed on.

0:30:260:30:32

Hodan, from the woman's association,

0:30:320:30:34

has asked to speak to Samira urgently.

0:30:340:30:37

Oh, my gosh!

0:30:580:31:00

Oh, my gosh!

0:31:020:31:03

Hodan says this is the fourth incident of rape this month.

0:31:120:31:16

The victims are traumatized.

0:31:160:31:19

Have you guys gone to the hospital?

0:31:200:31:23

Not all local Ethiopians want the refugee camps on their doorstep,

0:31:580:32:02

and rape can be used as a weapon against the women.

0:32:020:32:04

People need to understand that these people don't choose to be here.

0:32:170:32:20

They don't choose to be in a tent

0:32:200:32:21

sharing with 20 people.

0:32:210:32:23

They come from somewhere.

0:32:230:32:24

They all come from homes.

0:32:240:32:26

Whether it's a mud hut, whether it's a house, they come from somewhere.

0:32:260:32:30

What they've gone through is not by choice.

0:32:300:32:32

After ten days here, it's time for Samira to leave

0:32:350:32:38

and move on to the next stage of her journey.

0:32:380:32:41

But the camps have left a lasting impression.

0:32:410:32:44

Somalian women are just, like, so strong it's crazy.

0:32:470:32:51

The women are the ones that go through everything,

0:32:510:32:54

They're the ones fleeing the war, fleeing the drought,

0:32:540:32:56

raising the children, and they're still getting abused.

0:32:560:33:00

It's made me look at strength in a completely different way.

0:33:000:33:05

Next, Samira will see what the refugees are running from.

0:33:050:33:10

A majority of these people are here because

0:33:140:33:16

of the issues in Mogadishu and I'm going there,

0:33:160:33:18

so, every time I say to someone, "I'm going to Mogadishu,"

0:33:180:33:21

they're like, "Really?

0:33:210:33:23

"Do you know what you're saying?"

0:33:230:33:25

Quite excited. It feels quite gangsta!

0:33:250:33:29

She's going back to the capital of Somalia, Mogadishu,

0:33:360:33:39

for the first time since she was ten days old.

0:33:390:33:42

It's 21 years since war broke out,

0:33:420:33:45

and Samira's mother escaped the city leaving everything but her children.

0:33:450:33:49

Two decades of lawlessness,

0:33:490:33:52

up to a million dead,

0:33:520:33:55

and millions more still running.

0:33:550:33:57

Mogadishu has earned itself the title

0:33:570:33:59

of The Most Dangerous City In The World.

0:33:590:34:03

Samira's plane touches down to a sharp reminder

0:34:030:34:06

of exactly why they left.

0:34:060:34:08

There's a security alert.

0:34:080:34:10

-How many of there are you?

-Three.

0:34:100:34:12

A suicide bomber has attacked the centre of Mogadishu,

0:34:140:34:17

walking distance from the airport, and five people are dead.

0:34:170:34:21

I am bloody scared, because of al-Shabaab

0:34:210:34:26

and there's fighting going on there, now, as we speak.

0:34:260:34:30

And anything can happen at any time.

0:34:300:34:34

For security reasons, Samira will be restricted

0:35:000:35:05

to the army compound, a mile from the airport.

0:35:050:35:07

The sound of gunfire is constant,

0:35:110:35:13

and known locally as the music of Mogadishu.

0:35:130:35:16

For the first time in over twenty years the battle for control

0:35:200:35:23

of Mogadishu is being won by the pro-government troops.

0:35:230:35:27

But they're under constant attack.

0:35:270:35:30

How safe is this area?

0:35:300:35:32

We expect anything at anytime.

0:35:320:35:35

In the last three days we have had like five explosives.

0:35:350:35:40

You can see the dust from here.

0:35:420:35:44

What has happened outside can happen here.

0:35:440:35:47

It is really scary being here. We are actually in the heart of war.

0:35:500:35:55

I don't want to let al-Shabaab win and make me scared.

0:35:550:36:01

If we're scared then no-one will fight against them,

0:36:010:36:04

so I've chosen to be strong.

0:36:040:36:06

This is a war where young people are on the front line.

0:36:060:36:11

Many of the victims are brought to the compound for treatment.

0:36:110:36:14

How old is he?

0:36:340:36:35

He is...

0:36:350:36:38

But in a war that's entering its third decade,

0:36:400:36:42

young people are not only victims.

0:36:420:36:45

By recruiting the youth, al-Shabaab are hoping

0:37:100:37:13

that the future of Somalia as a hard line Islamic state is assured.

0:37:130:37:16

Al-Shabaab are ruining the country.

0:37:160:37:20

They're ruining the future of the country

0:37:200:37:23

and they're ruining the future generation, the youth, children.

0:37:230:37:27

They're ruining everything.

0:37:270:37:29

I feel quite silly because I'm Somali

0:37:290:37:32

and I knew that this was happening

0:37:320:37:35

but I didn't really pay much attention to it.

0:37:350:37:39

In her mom's stories about Mogadishu

0:37:430:37:46

it's not all about war

0:37:460:37:48

and al-Shabaab.

0:37:480:37:50

She's been told about the beautiful places her mother played as a child.

0:37:500:37:54

Look how beautiful that is!

0:37:540:37:57

This is my home!

0:38:020:38:04

I want to just jump in.

0:38:040:38:06

My mum left this.

0:38:070:38:10

She had to.

0:38:100:38:12

She had no choice and now I'm here.

0:38:120:38:16

It feels like an achievement.

0:38:170:38:18

But danger is never very far away.

0:38:210:38:25

The gunfire is getting louder.

0:38:270:38:29

Al-Shabaab are close by.

0:38:340:38:36

It's Samira's second day in Mogadishu,

0:38:490:38:51

and despite the danger,

0:38:510:38:52

she's still keen to see more of the city she was born in.

0:38:520:38:57

But to do so, she's risking her life,

0:38:570:39:00

and all precautions are taken.

0:39:000:39:02

That's probably about right. OK?

0:39:020:39:04

For the troops, it's a routine tour of the city,

0:39:140:39:17

but for Samira, it's stepping into the abyss.

0:39:170:39:21

The destruction is worse than Samira expected.

0:39:420:39:46

The city has been reduced to a pile of machine-gun-chewed bricks

0:39:460:39:49

ripped apart by violence.

0:39:490:39:51

The killing goes on.

0:39:510:39:54

Suicide bombs, RPGs, beheadings,

0:39:540:39:57

medieval-style stonings -

0:39:570:39:59

all are common place in this city of terror.

0:39:590:40:02

Like Samira's family, most people have run from the city,

0:40:110:40:15

but Samira wants to find out what it's like for those

0:40:150:40:19

from her generation left behind.

0:40:190:40:21

Even though it looks absolutely devastating now,

0:40:410:40:45

I could imagine what this would've looked like.

0:40:450:40:48

Before the war, Mogadishu was known

0:40:520:40:55

for its classical Italian architecture, and its sandy beaches.

0:40:550:40:59

Idyllically set on the Indian Ocean,

0:41:030:41:06

Mogadishu was once full of holidaymakers.

0:41:060:41:10

Really?

0:41:210:41:22

Samira has come to meet Abdi,

0:41:250:41:26

a 29-year-old translator.

0:41:260:41:29

He has spent his whole life in Mogadishu,

0:41:290:41:31

and is part of the lost generation of Somalis.

0:41:310:41:35

How has the war affected you?

0:41:490:41:52

-For me?

-Yeah.

0:41:520:41:54

This country's too beautiful to waste.

0:42:190:42:23

It's too beautiful to just say, "This is it."

0:42:230:42:27

Samira had hoped to visit the house she was born in,

0:42:330:42:36

but has been told it's too dangerous.

0:42:360:42:38

Instead, she gets a chance go to the ruins of a football stadium...

0:42:420:42:46

..to meet Shukri, born in the same year, the same month,

0:42:500:42:53

and in the same district as Samira.

0:42:530:42:55

How's your life been here?

0:43:000:43:02

But it's hard.

0:43:040:43:06

She said, "Take me now. Take me to London!"

0:43:160:43:19

Samira has always wondered how her life might have been

0:43:200:43:23

if she'd stayed in Mogadishu,

0:43:230:43:26

and talking to Shukri gives her a chance to find out.

0:43:260:43:30

For girls of the same age, their lives are poles apart.

0:43:380:43:41

Samira has just started her modelling career,

0:43:410:43:44

whilst Shukri was married at 15

0:43:440:43:46

and had her first child a year later.

0:43:460:43:47

But it's Shukri's experience of war that Samira finds difficult

0:43:500:43:53

to come to terms with.

0:43:530:43:55

I can't. Why did they do this?

0:44:320:44:34

The thought that, actually,

0:44:470:44:50

this is how my life would be if me and my family stayed

0:44:500:44:54

or whether I would be alive or dead.

0:44:540:44:58

I don't really know.

0:44:580:45:00

I feel very frustrated and angry

0:45:000:45:03

that nobody's stopping this torture and suffering.

0:45:030:45:07

Oh, gosh!

0:45:120:45:14

Samira has just got back into the compound when some news comes in.

0:45:160:45:21

There's been a skirmish at the stadium.

0:45:210:45:23

-The stadium's just been hit.

-Where we were?

0:45:230:45:28

Are you serious, the stadium that we were just at has been hit?

0:45:280:45:33

Oh, my gosh!

0:45:360:45:39

What about Shukri? Is she OK?

0:45:390:45:42

No one knows what has happened to Shukri.

0:45:440:45:47

It's the next morning, Samira's last day in Mogadishu,

0:45:530:45:57

when the news finally comes in that Shukri's alive and well.

0:45:570:46:01

Oh, thank you.

0:46:040:46:07

As she leaves Samira learns the true extent

0:46:070:46:09

of al-Shabaab activity during her stay.

0:46:090:46:11

There's about five suicide bombs.

0:46:110:46:14

And loads of civilians were, obviously, killed and injured.

0:46:140:46:18

It's mad, cos I got out of it but people are still there.

0:46:180:46:22

Somali people are still there and they're in the middle of all of this.

0:46:220:46:27

Before Samira goes back to the safety of Britain,

0:46:290:46:33

she's got one more stop.

0:46:330:46:35

Hargeisa, the main city of Somaliland.

0:46:350:46:39

One of the very few regions that hasn't been devastated by the war.

0:46:440:46:49

It's a place where you can forget about the chaos

0:46:490:46:52

and the rest of the country.

0:46:520:46:55

Or, at least, almost forget.

0:46:550:46:58

Oh, I like that one.

0:46:580:47:00

Somaliland has declared independence from the rest of Somalia,

0:47:000:47:03

and has a blossoming economy.

0:47:030:47:05

It's busy! I like! Everyone making money and doing things,

0:47:050:47:09

which is great.

0:47:090:47:10

I haven't heard no gunshots and I haven't heard no explosions,

0:47:100:47:14

so that is hope already.

0:47:140:47:18

But the city has its own horrors

0:47:180:47:21

deeply rooted in Samira's culture.

0:47:210:47:23

And that's the reason she's come here.

0:47:230:47:26

Because although she looks similar to the other women in Hargeisa,

0:47:260:47:30

there's a difference.

0:47:300:47:32

Nearly all the woman here have been deliberately mutilated.

0:47:320:47:36

To Samira, it's another war -

0:47:360:47:39

on woman by woman.

0:47:390:47:41

Once known as female circumcision,

0:47:410:47:44

the procedure now referred to as FGM, Female Genital Mutilation,

0:47:440:47:49

is considered by the UN to be a violation

0:47:490:47:51

of human rights.

0:47:510:47:53

But it's legal in many parts of Somalia.

0:47:530:47:57

Over 90% of Somali women have had it done -

0:47:570:48:01

some when they were just four years old.

0:48:010:48:05

You literally get your clitoris removed

0:48:050:48:07

and your vagina sewn together,

0:48:070:48:10

and they create a little hole for you to wee out of.

0:48:100:48:14

It's that brutal.

0:48:140:48:17

Like many women brought up the west,

0:48:200:48:23

Samira is outraged by FGM -

0:48:230:48:25

a practice that was nearly forced upon her.

0:48:250:48:28

My mum, she wanted us to go through FGM

0:48:280:48:31

and my grandma, the life saviour, said no.

0:48:310:48:36

My mum, I just can't believe she'd want that.

0:48:360:48:38

Maybe it's because, I'd say brainwashed

0:48:380:48:41

cos of the community, society and people made her believe

0:48:410:48:46

that that that is what

0:48:460:48:48

has to done or we'd probably go crazy or have sex out of marriage.

0:48:480:48:54

Samira's mum wouldn't have carried out the procedure herself.

0:48:540:48:58

She'd have gone to the women known as Cutters.

0:48:580:49:01

They circumcise thousands of young girls every year,

0:49:010:49:03

and have no medical training.

0:49:030:49:06

Samira wants to understand why they do it.

0:49:080:49:10

They're a bit scary.

0:49:100:49:13

Knowing that they've done it to. loads of other girls bothers me.

0:49:130:49:20

But to these women, it's as normal as getting married

0:49:200:49:23

and having children.

0:49:230:49:25

Before being allowed to marry,

0:49:420:49:44

the bride-to-be is inspected by the mother-in-law

0:49:440:49:47

to ensure that the stitching is intact

0:49:470:49:49

and the girl is still a virgin.

0:49:490:49:50

Only then will the stitching be removed.

0:49:500:49:53

I'm sure you know you're causing these girls further complication

0:49:530:49:55

in the future.

0:49:550:49:57

Don't you guys think it's wrong

0:50:040:50:05

you're removing what god gave to a women?

0:50:050:50:07

Samira is offered the chance to make up her own mind.

0:50:150:50:18

Tomorrow, one of the women is circumcising her daughter.

0:50:180:50:21

She's six years old.

0:50:210:50:24

Fuck off, man! Six years old!

0:50:240:50:27

I can't! I can't! I can't!

0:50:270:50:30

They're going to physically mutilate a six-year-old.

0:50:300:50:32

Does that not make anybody physically sick?

0:50:320:50:36

Please just stop fucking filming me.

0:50:360:50:38

She's horrified.

0:50:420:50:44

Samira has niece of a similar age,

0:50:440:50:46

and she can't stand back and let it happen

0:50:460:50:50

She reluctantly goes to the Cutter's house in search of the girl.

0:50:520:50:55

I'm shocked to see that it still happens

0:51:050:51:08

and I'm shocked that you think it's OK

0:51:080:51:09

for it to happen to your six-year-old daughter,

0:51:090:51:12

Don't you think she's too young?

0:51:120:51:14

What do you leave? A hole to wee?

0:51:260:51:29

A little hole the size of your nostril

0:51:340:51:37

Are you OK?

0:51:390:51:41

Are you look scared?

0:51:420:51:44

She looks frightened.

0:51:440:51:46

As a Muslim, Samira prays everyday.

0:51:540:51:57

But today's prayer has a special intention.

0:51:570:52:01

The little girl just looked so innocent.

0:52:010:52:03

She had no clue what's going to happen to her.

0:52:030:52:07

Tomorrow is going to be a really traumatic experience for her,

0:52:070:52:12

but I feel like I should go for the sake of the little girl.

0:52:120:52:17

It's Samira's last day in Somalia.

0:52:290:52:32

And at first light, she gets to the young girl's house.

0:52:320:52:37

Where's the little girl?

0:52:410:52:43

She's too late.

0:52:460:52:48

The operation has already been done.

0:52:480:52:51

Oh, my gosh!

0:52:510:52:52

Is she in pain?

0:52:570:52:59

Oh, oh, gosh!

0:53:170:53:21

Samira has seen why the procedure is done

0:53:320:53:35

but she'll never agree with it.

0:53:350:53:37

The girl seems OK.

0:53:370:53:39

It's still not right.

0:53:420:53:45

This part of the Somali culture, I will never accept and understand.

0:53:450:53:48

I just think it's abuse

0:53:480:53:52

rather that culture.

0:53:520:53:55

I feel so happy that I haven't had that done to me.

0:53:560:53:59

After four weeks in Africa,

0:54:180:54:20

it's time for Samira to go back to Britain.

0:54:200:54:23

In her time here, Samira has seen all kinds of suffering,

0:54:230:54:26

some of which has its roots in her culture,

0:54:260:54:29

but the bulk of the destruction has come from 21 years of war.

0:54:290:54:35

I'm going back to London.

0:54:350:54:37

There are Somalis that are going through this daily struggle,

0:54:370:54:42

poverty, the refugee camps, the women, the malnourished kids.

0:54:420:54:48

People in Mogadishu can't rebuild their lives

0:54:490:54:52

because they're still living in war.

0:54:520:54:56

Every single day Somali's are dying.

0:54:560:54:59

The experience has answered many of her questions,

0:55:010:55:03

but it's affected her more deeply than she'd ever expected.

0:55:030:55:07

She now realises how lucky she's been.

0:55:070:55:11

I can see what my mum went through,

0:55:110:55:13

and that will definitely change my relationship with my mum.

0:55:130:55:18

When I get back, I don't think I will ever appreciate her more.

0:55:180:55:23

The whole journey has changed me in terms of the religion

0:55:230:55:28

and in terms of the way I dress.

0:55:280:55:30

I probably would

0:55:300:55:31

think about the type of modelling I do,

0:55:310:55:34

and try and go to the modest pathway into modelling,

0:55:340:55:37

cos I think you don't have to take all your clothes off to be a model.

0:55:370:55:44

Mama!

0:55:460:55:48

Aww, Mum,

0:55:490:55:52

Oh, Mum. It's been too long.

0:55:520:55:55

Are you all right?

0:55:550:55:57

Yeah, I am.

0:55:570:55:59

I'm so glad, to come back.

0:55:590:56:00

Aww mum, it's so good to be home.

0:56:000:56:04

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