Gwlad yr Ia 'Sgota gyda Julian Lewis Jones


Gwlad yr Ia

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-Mountains, sea

-and fish in abundance.

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-I've reached

-the fisherman's paradise.

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-Welcome to 'Sgota

-and welcome to Iceland.

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-888

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-888

-

-888

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-888

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-888

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-888

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-We've come to Iceland,

-famous throughout the world...

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-..for its volcanoes

-and wonderful fisheries.

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-Our journey takes us shore fishing

-for cod, dab and coalfish...

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-..and sea fishing

-for halibut and the famous wolf fish.

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-After landing in Reykjavik,

-we had to travel over 400km...

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-..to the northern town

-of Dalvik in Eyjafjorour.

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-Dalvik's economy is wholly dependent

-on fishing and tourism.

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-A ferry to the island

-of Grimsey operates from here.

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-Alhough Grimsey

-is on the Arctic Circle...

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-..it is home to around 100 people.

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-Our driver has brought us safely

-to this pier in Eyjafjorour...

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-..in this mean machine

-and we can't wait.

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-I'm going to catch a huge cod.

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-There's no shortage of fish here.

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-There's no shortage of fish here.

-

-Let's go fishing.

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-I'm using a 12-foot rod

-known as a Beachcaster.

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-This is a strong reel...

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-..with a 30 pound line.

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-I've tied a knot in it

-called a shock leader.

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-It takes the shock

-when you're casting.

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-That takes around 70 pounds.

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-I'm using two types of bait -

-a lugworm and a chunk of fish.

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-The hook is a small 2/O.

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-I'm using two of them.

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-I've attached a five ounce

-lead weight to take it down.

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-This is my first cast in Iceland.

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-Off I go.

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-My turn now.

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-I hope I catch the first fish.

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-That's why I'm getting mine in now!

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-Heavens above!

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-I've got a bite!

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-How many seconds did that take?

-I've caught a fish already!

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-That can't have been 30 seconds.

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-If that.

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-Dear me!

-That would never happen in Wales.

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-Highly unlikely.

-What have you caught?

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-It looks like a small cod.

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-Yes. Just look at that.

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-That's incredible.

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-That took 30 seconds.

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-30 seconds.

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-Heavens above.

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-OK, little one,

-go and find your big brothers.

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-That's it, the hook's out safely.

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-My first Icelandic cod.

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-You're a pretty one.

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-Back you go, little one.

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-In you go.

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-And it's off.

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-Superb.

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-Well done, Jules!

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-If I played darts as well as I cast,

-I'd be a millionaire.

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-That's what you call two for one.

-It hadn't even reached the bottom.

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-Same here. Once the line was taut,

-I got a bite.

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-Superb.

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-Superb.

-

-What have I caught? A coalfish.

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-The fish are there immediately.

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-Immediately. That must have taken

-all of 30 seconds.

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-Instantly.

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-If I were at home..

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-..I'd keep this one...

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-..to have with a few chips

-and mushy peas.

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-But there are bigger ones here,

-so I'm letting it go.

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-I'm here with Steve Mason,

-our guide for the week.

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-He has been fishing in Iceland

-for many years.

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-How long have you been fishing

-over here?

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-Since 1991.

-The core industry is fishing.

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-I came out as a fish filleter.

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-I've been a keen angler

-for a long time.

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-Off the pier here,

-we've had coalfish and cod.

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-You're bringing in something now.

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-You're bringing in something now.

-

-I think I've got a dab on here.

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-I think it's a dab.

-There's definitely a fish here.

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-It's not a shark, is it?

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-No. There it is, coming up there.

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-Heavens above! That's a dab?

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-Look at the size of that dab!

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-If I were at home now...

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-This is a dab.

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-But the dabs at home

-have orange spots on them.

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-It's enormous.

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-OK, thank you.

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-Is it going back?

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-Yeah, put it back.

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-It's going back in. Say ta-ta.

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-Here it comes.

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-Dear me!

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-I thought it was something big.

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-I thought it was something big.

-

-That must be ten pounds.

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-Look at that.

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-That's a beaut.

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-I'd be very happy

-catching that from a boat.

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-But to catch it from the shore...

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-That's how you do it, lads.

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-A monster of a coalfish,

-if ever there was one.

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-Superb.

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-Right, back it goes quickly.

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-Tell me, did it put up a fight?

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-Well, it was tough and painful...

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-..but in the end, the best man won.

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-It's still daylight.

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-We'll have daylight

-for 24 hours, Julian.

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-Bring it in.

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-That's a pretty one, Julian.

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-That's one heck of a cod.

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-It's chunky, isn't it?

-It's in good condition.

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-Here we go.

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-Do you want to cut the hook?

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-Yes. Use your scissors.

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-Cut it closer to the mouth.

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-The hook rusts easily.

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-This is our last catch

-from the pier.

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-We're moving on to the beach later.

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-You can go back in. Off you go.

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-Back to the depths.

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-Superb. Well done, Julian.

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-The angling machine

-has already got stuck in.

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-The fishing terminator!

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-We've had a coffee, it's 8.50pm

-and we're down on the beach...

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-..after fishing all day

-from the pier.

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-I'm trying my luck with dab.

-Steve has already caught one.

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-It was at least two pounds.

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-It was at least two pounds.

-

-It was huge.

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-I'm going to cast now

-to see whether I get a little dab.

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-Or a big one!

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-There's some expectation now

-after the day we've had today.

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-I'm in, lads.

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-Here we go. I hope it's a dab.

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-Hopefully, this is my first one

-in Iceland.

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-It's a dab.

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-Yes, I've caught one!

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-It's a chunky dab too.

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-It's a hefty one.

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-Superb, Julian. Look at that.

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-Now there's a fish for you.

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-Look how fat it is.

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-Superb. I'm going back

-to keep an eye on my rod.

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-Right, OK.

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-I'm ecstatic.

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-Ooh, watch the water!

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-I've caught some seaweed.

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-It won't be the first time

-or the last...

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-..but I hope to catch

-something tastier next time.

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-No! You're going the wrong way!

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-Goodness me!

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-What do I have here?

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-Goodness, it's pulling hard.

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-It's really pulling.

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-What is it? A coalie?

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-Yes, it's a coalfish.

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-No, it's a cod.

-And a fine cod at that.

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-That's a good one.

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-It's lovely.

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-A few chips

-would go nicely with that.

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-Here we go.

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-A cod. It looks so healthy.

-Just look at it.

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-It's lovely.

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-It has been well fed.

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-They have plenty of food...

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-..plenty of room

-and they aren't overfished.

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-It's a lively one!

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-Well, Rhys, going by my watch...

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-..it's 10.00pm and it's still light.

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-..it's 10.00pm and it's still light.

-

-It's light for 24 hours here.

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-I have to admit,

-you won the day overall...

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-..with that enormous fish.

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-..with that enormous fish.

-

-Of course.

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-But tonight's session was good.

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-But tonight's session was good.

-

-Yes, this session belonged to you.

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-I think it's time

-for a pint of shandy now.

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-A half of shandy, maybe.

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-Come on then.

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-.

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-888

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-888

-

-888

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-I know I promised your wife

-that I'd look after you...

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-..but I'm leaving you for an hour.

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-..but I'm leaving you for an hour.

-

-Why, where are you going?

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-I'm off to do some fly-fishing

-for char and trout.

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-You go to the lake, and I'll go

-to the pier to catch a huge cod.

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-Often, when the weather

-is against us...

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-..and when it's very bright,

-as it is today...

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-..something different is called for.

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-This is something very different.

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-It's a salmon fly.

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-One fellow angler has fished here

-for the past 25 years.

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-He tells me I'll be able

-to catch one with this.

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-Let me show you the bait

-that we're using today.

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-These are Pacific saury.

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-Obviously, they're from the Pacific.

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-Amateur anglers use them because

-they contain a lot of oil and blood.

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-They're also cheaper than mackerel.

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-I'm also using lugworms, which are

-keeping fresh in the water here.

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-I'll cut up one of these sauries,

-or blueys, as we call them.

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-Start close to the head,

-as you would with any other fish.

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-Run the knife along the backbone,

-all the way to the tail.

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-Keep that for later.

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-I'll chop up pieces

-to put on the hooks.

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-One, two.

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-I'll get four pieces out of that.

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-They're ready to put on the hooks.

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-I'm using three hooks on this rig.

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-I'll attach it to the first hook

-at the top here.

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-Put a piece of saury

-on the second one.

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-Pull the hook through it.

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-The third hook at the bottom...

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-..sits on the seabed.

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-I'll put two pieces on this one.

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-Hopefully, I'll catch a huge cod.

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-We've come to Iceland

-for the sea fishing.

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-But the lakes and rivers

-are great for fishing too.

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-The fishing here is excellent.

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-Rainbow and brown trout

-weigh around two pounds.

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-In early summer,

-the river teems with char.

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-You can catch 70 fish a day,

-weighing at least three pounds each.

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-We can also catch trout

-weighing up to four pounds.

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-Let's go fishing.

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-Ready?

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-Look at the size of that dab!

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-It's huge.

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-Three hooks, three fish. Superb.

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-I'm trying to cast the fly

-as far as possible.

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-I want to give it plenty of time

-in the water.

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-I think I've scared the fish here.

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-They don't seem to be

-coming to the surface.

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-I'll try the other side

-before going back to Julian...

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-..just in case

-he's got into mischief.

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-I don't know about Rhys...

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-..but I'm having

-a wonderful morning in Dalvik.

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-There's a whole heap of fish here.

-I've caught another three.

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-Here we go. Heavens above!

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-Three great fish again.

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-Two small cod and a dab.

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-For every cast,

-I've caught at least two fish.

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-I hope that Julian's

-having more luck than me.

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-But not too much luck.

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-We don't want him

-getting too big-headed!

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-I'll be very pleased

-if I get a bite here.

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-I'm starting to think

-they've brought me here...

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-..as a bit of a joke.

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-Thank goodness,

-the local angler's unlucky too.

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-That's some comfort, at least.

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-A lovely little brown trout.

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-Look at that.

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-What a lovely fish.

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-It has a few red speckles on it.

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-And lovely black spots.

-It's a very attractive fish.

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-For me, this fish is worth ten

-of the cod Julian has caught.

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-He's sure to have caught ten by now.

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-To catch a brown trout

-here in Iceland is fantastic.

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-I've been here for a couple of hours.

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-I must have caught 30-40 fish

-in that time.

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-I should go and meet Rhys.

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-Here's another cod...

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-..to finish my session on the pier.

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-It's a nice little one too.

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-I'm going to join Rhys on the beach.

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-It's a pebble beach

-half an hour's drive away.

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-This is my last catch

-on the pier in Dalvik.

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-I'll see you later.

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-They dry the cod for cooking

-on these wooden beams above my head.

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-I'm going to the beach

-to fish for fresh cod...

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-..for tonight's barbecue.

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-Hello. How did it go?

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-Not bad. I've been roaming

-the fjords looking for you.

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-I've been setting up here.

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-The line's in deep -

-around 80 metres.

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-It's a long way down.

-How did you get on, anyway?

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-It took a long time. The wind

-and everything was against us.

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-But it ended Wales 1, Iceland 0!

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-Did you catch anything then?

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-Yes, a lovely little trout.

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-A trout?

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-A trout?

-

-I wanted a char but got a trout.

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-It was a nice one, I must say.

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-The tripod has been set up for you,

-so off you go.

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-It's quiet.

-The fish must be having a siesta.

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-They'll wake up nearer teatime.

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-Here we go.

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-I think this'll be a decent catch.

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-It's pulling quite a bit.

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-Keep it going. What is it?

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-A lovely cod.

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-That's a good one.

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-Do you fancy eating this one?

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-Would it fit in a baguette?

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-It'd have to be one heck of a bun!

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-Steve's going to show us

-how a pro fillets a cod.

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-Here we are on the second side.

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-Come up the head...

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-..through the flap.

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-The second side, I would take

-the fillet and come all the way up.

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-That's close to the bone.

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-Up, one.

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-It's all about having a sharp knife.

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-That's very, very sharp.

-There's nothing on there.

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-That's the professional way!

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-No waste at all.

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-Just look how clean the fillet is.

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-A wonderful piece of cod.

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-You caught this lovely cod...

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-..so let's taste it.

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-It smells delicious.

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-Help yourself.

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-We've had a wonderful time

-shore fishing here in Iceland.

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-The next time you'll see us,

-we'll be out at sea.

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-I'm going to tuck into this now.

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-.

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-888

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-888

-

-888

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-After a long journey,

-we've reached Sudureyri.

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-Despite the wind,

-we'll see whether we can catch...

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-..a giant cod, a wolf fish...

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-..or even a halibut.

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-Let's hope luck is on our side.

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-We'll need taut lines, lads.

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-This is fairly new to me,

-so you'll have to help me out.

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-No problem.

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-What we have here is a pirk,

-or a pilk in Scandinavia.

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-It's more or less a giant spinner.

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-Despite using a thinner braid,

-it's incredibly strong.

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-It cuts through the water

-better than a mono.

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-There's a very sharp hook

-at the end of that.

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-We need a giant hook

-because the fish are strong.

0:22:490:22:52

-They grow to be very big.

0:22:530:22:55

-Cod in these parts

-can grow to 60 pounds.

0:22:560:22:59

-We've reached the first drift now.

0:23:090:23:11

-Are you OK, Rhys?

0:23:120:23:14

-Fine.

0:23:140:23:15

-Just move the pirk up and down.

0:23:160:23:18

-Up and down.

-Bring it up and let it sink.

0:23:180:23:21

-It's a matter of trying

-different locations.

0:23:220:23:25

-A lot of it is down to luck too.

0:23:250:23:28

-Sometimes, all you need is patience.

0:23:290:23:31

-Beginner's luck, Julian!

0:23:320:23:34

-I'll have to start going to the gym

-when I get home.

0:23:360:23:39

-Wolf fish.

0:23:400:23:41

-Wolf fish.

-

-You've caught one!

0:23:410:23:42

-The wolf!

-The boys will be proud of me!

0:23:430:23:46

-When I phoned them the other day,

-they asked if I'd caught a wolf.

0:23:470:23:51

-Well, yes, I've caught one.

-Good on me!

0:23:520:23:56

-This is a meter to measure depth.

0:23:590:24:02

-It's recording a depth of 25.9m.

0:24:020:24:04

-At the bottom of the screen, we can

-tell how many species there are.

0:24:040:24:08

-Cod, haddock and wolf fish.

0:24:090:24:11

-I've just caught one.

-I've caught plenty of these today.

0:24:110:24:15

-But I caught it

-using these Pink Ladies...

0:24:150:24:18

-..so they've come up trumps

-with the cod.

0:24:190:24:22

-This cod's a fair size.

0:24:250:24:28

-It's darker than the usual ones

-because it lives among the seaweed.

0:24:290:24:33

-ICELANDIC WEATHER REPORT

0:24:330:24:36

-Robert has heard there's a storm

-approaching from the north.

0:24:360:24:40

-We can't stay out too long.

0:24:410:24:43

-No, we can't risk it.

0:24:440:24:46

-It's disappointing to turn back,

-but a storm's a storm.

0:24:520:24:57

-It wasn't all bad.

-I caught my wolf fish.

0:24:570:25:01

-That pleased me, but you can't

-take risks with the weather.

0:25:010:25:06

-The storm has worsened...

0:25:170:25:19

-..so we've come to the village,

-which is situated next to a lagoon.

0:25:190:25:24

-Robert, our captain,

-has tipped me off...

0:25:240:25:28

-..about large cod in this lagoon.

0:25:280:25:31

-Let's find out.

0:25:310:25:32

-Let's find out.

-

-Shall we give it a go?

0:25:320:25:34

-I have a lightweight rod,

-so let's have some fun.

0:25:340:25:37

-I'm using a shad lure.

0:25:380:25:40

-I'm using a shad lure.

-

-Off we go.

0:25:400:25:41

-Mind your footing.

0:25:420:25:44

-Let's cast and see how we get on.

0:25:440:25:46

-Here I go.

0:25:470:25:49

-It's just a case of working

-that shad now...

0:25:530:25:57

-..to see whether there are any fish

-down there.

0:25:570:26:01

-I'm in, Jules.

0:26:010:26:03

-Right away! Heavens above!

0:26:030:26:06

-Oops! I'm excited already!

0:26:060:26:09

-Dear me!

-Just look at the size of that thing!

0:26:100:26:14

-This is a haddock.

0:26:140:26:17

-And a huge one at that.

0:26:170:26:19

-Goodness me!

0:26:200:26:22

-That's a haddock and a half!

0:26:220:26:25

-I'm putting it straight back in.

0:26:250:26:27

-Jeepers creepers!

0:26:280:26:30

-This is really pulling!

0:26:300:26:32

-We're straight in there.

0:26:320:26:34

-Are you hungry, lads?

0:26:350:26:37

-What a lovely haddock!

0:26:370:26:40

-I caught that one quickly.

-It can go back in now.

0:26:410:26:44

-Robert, the captain, was right.

0:26:450:26:48

-There's a heap of fish in here.

0:26:490:26:51

-Are you in?

0:26:560:26:58

-Ooh, dear me!

0:27:020:27:03

-Come on, boyo. Look at this one.

0:27:040:27:07

-This spinning rod is very light...

0:27:080:27:12

-..and it's taking me for a walk

-along the shore.

0:27:120:27:16

-It's a strong fish.

-Jeepers creepers, look at this!

0:27:160:27:20

-I've caught a monster here.

0:27:230:27:25

-Heavens above!

0:27:260:27:28

-A cod caught with a spinner.

0:27:290:27:31

-It's not very happy,

-by the look of it.

0:27:320:27:35

-This is a big lump.

0:27:390:27:41

-Oh, Julian!

0:27:410:27:43

-Look at that, Julian.

0:27:430:27:45

-Goodness me!

0:27:470:27:49

-I'll get my hook back!

0:27:500:27:53

-The biggest cod I've ever caught.

-It deserves a kiss!

0:27:550:27:59

-Back you go, boyo.

0:28:000:28:02

-This coalfish is running away

-with the line. It's so powerful.

0:28:020:28:07

-You have lots of fun

-when you use lightweight gear.

0:28:070:28:10

-Dear me.

0:28:120:28:13

-They're so powerful.

0:28:150:28:17

-It ran away like a steam engine.

0:28:200:28:22

-Here we go again.

0:28:230:28:25

-It's one heck of a coalfish.

0:28:270:28:29

-I think I've landed it now.

0:28:300:28:32

-It's a decent weight.

0:28:350:28:37

-And very lively.

0:28:370:28:39

-We've had some great fun

-in Sudureyri.

0:28:410:28:45

-It's time to travel to Reykjavik.

0:28:450:28:47

-Another incredible fish...

0:28:480:28:50

-..makes its way to the surface.

0:28:500:28:54

-Superb, Jules. Another little cod.

0:28:540:28:57

-We've come to the seaside today...

0:29:160:29:19

-..to this 300km-long beach.

0:29:190:29:23

-Believe it or not, this is sand.

0:29:230:29:26

-Black sand.

0:29:260:29:28

-Today, we're fishing for spur-dog.

0:29:280:29:31

-It'll require a big cast

-because the waves are colossal.

0:29:310:29:36

-I'm putting half a Pacific saury

-on this big hook.

0:29:390:29:42

-I'll insert the hook in the tail

-and pull the line through.

0:29:420:29:48

-I'm making stitches in the fish.

0:29:500:29:53

-Once again. Pull the hook through.

0:29:530:29:56

-Pull it all through...

0:29:560:29:59

-..through the middle of the saury.

0:30:000:30:04

-To make sure it stays on

-the hook securely...

0:30:040:30:07

-..I'm wrapping it in elastic.

0:30:080:30:10

-It's hard work in this wind!

0:30:100:30:12

-I'm wrapping it all the way around.

0:30:120:30:15

-There we go.

0:30:150:30:17

-We're ready to catch spur-dog now.

0:30:170:30:20

-I'm ready for my first cast.

-The wind is strong.

0:30:310:30:34

-The waves are enormous.

0:30:350:30:37

-I need to be careful

-with my casting.

0:30:370:30:40

-I've been here a while

-trying to catch a spur-dog.

0:30:490:30:52

-It's hard work in these waves

-and in the strong wind.

0:30:530:30:58

-Steve has already caught one.

0:30:580:31:00

-These fish often swim in groups...

0:31:010:31:04

-..as they chase the bait.

0:31:040:31:06

-I'm hopeful there are others.

0:31:070:31:09

-I'm going to cast again

-to see whether I can catch one.

0:31:090:31:13

-I'm trying to keep the rod high

-and hold it above the waves...

0:31:210:31:26

-..so that the waves

-don't wash away the bait.

0:31:260:31:31

-It's testing on the arms...

0:31:310:31:33

-..to hold it up all day like this.

0:31:330:31:36

-But as Tad-cu would say...

0:31:360:31:39

-.."It's not as bad

-as a day down the mine."

0:31:390:31:42

-The spur-dog is a member

-of the shark family.

0:31:420:31:45

-Pelagic fish

-move into an area and move out.

0:31:460:31:49

-These are the rock salmon

-sold in chip shops in the UK.

0:31:490:31:53

-It's called spur-dog

-for its two spurs.

0:31:530:31:56

-One on its top dorsal fin

-and one on the bottom.

0:31:570:32:00

-You must watch them when they first

-come out of the water.

0:32:000:32:04

-They're strong and can give you

-a nasty gash in your hand.

0:32:040:32:08

-You have to respect the sea

-at all times.

0:32:090:32:12

-Seven waves may come along...

0:32:120:32:15

-..and they're a safe distance

-away from you.

0:32:150:32:18

-But the eighth could come along

-and sweep you away.

0:32:190:32:22

-I've caught one.

0:32:430:32:45

-I've caught a fish.

0:32:460:32:48

-It's still there!

0:33:030:33:05

-The fish is pulling me

-down the beach.

0:33:050:33:08

-I've still got it!

0:33:160:33:18

-My heart's pumping

-fifteen to the dozen.

0:33:190:33:22

-There it is!

0:33:320:33:34

-Jeepers creepers!

0:33:350:33:37

-It's a good one!

0:33:370:33:39

-This is my first spur-dog...

0:33:450:33:49

-..caught on the black sand...

0:33:490:33:52

-..through all the waves and wind.

0:33:520:33:53

-..through all the waves and wind.

-

-I'm so happy for you.

0:33:530:33:55

-That's fantastic. Brilliant.

0:33:550:33:57

-I'm a very happy man.

0:33:580:34:00

-Watch out!

0:34:000:34:02

-If you look at it...

0:34:020:34:05

-..you'll see both dorsal fins

-with the very sharp spurs.

0:34:050:34:10

-Notice the small one there.

0:34:100:34:13

-The one on the back dorsal fin

-is even bigger.

0:34:130:34:17

-I won't keep it too long out

-of water. It needs to go home.

0:34:170:34:21

-Fishing like this is hard work...

0:34:220:34:24

-..but when you catch such a fish,

-it makes it all worthwhile.

0:34:240:34:29

-I've caught one at last.

-My perseverance has paid off.

0:34:300:34:33

-It's one for the man

-from Trawsfynydd.

0:34:350:34:38

-It's a pleasure catching these.

-It's a monster of a fish.

0:34:390:34:43

-That's a big, big fish.

-Watch his spur.

0:34:440:34:49

-A bit of perseverance.

0:34:490:34:51

-I've kept the best till last

-once again.

0:34:540:34:57

-I won't give this one a kiss

-because its teeth are too sharp.

0:34:570:35:01

-It can go back in the water.

0:35:010:35:04

-It's a perfect fish.

-Right, back it goes.

0:35:040:35:07

-Our journey ends

-on the black beach in Iceland.

0:35:210:35:25

-Cefn Sidan is a vast beach...

0:35:250:35:27

-..but this is something else.

0:35:280:35:29

-..but this is something else.

-

-It's been a fantastic week.

0:35:290:35:31

-There have been so many highlights

-that it's difficult to pick one.

0:35:310:35:35

-But for me, catching that

-ugly wolf fish in Sudureyri...

0:35:350:35:39

-..stands out because I hadn't seen

-one before, let alone caught one.

0:35:400:35:45

-My highlight has to be fishing

-on this black sand in the wind.

0:35:450:35:49

-It's something unusual

-for us Welshmen to see.

0:35:500:35:53

-This may have been our first visit,

-but it certainly won't be our last.

0:35:530:35:57

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

0:36:220:36:24

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0:36:240:36:24

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