Colin Prior - Mountain Man The Adventure Show


Colin Prior - Mountain Man

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The Karakoram Mountains of Pakistan,

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one of the most rugged, remote

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and inhospitable places in the world.

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Despite its savage nature, this is a photographer's paradise

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and one man is determined to capture its austere grandeur.

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There's a unique landscape here, that continually inspires me.

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These mountains that rise up, with their very fine-fluted towers,

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with domes with shapes that appear to rise from a Tolkien novel.

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Occasionally, in Scotland, you will find yourself in the Cuillins,

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where you've got a bit of mist running over a pinnacle.

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Here, in Pakistan, almost every mountain

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has these spires and pinnacles, with mist running in and out of them,

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and I feel there is great opportunity to create images

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that really stimulate the imagination.

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There are more mountains over 8,000 metres in the Karakoram

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than anywhere else and they've attracted

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the world's finest climbers for over a century.

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But there are very few photographers who have been prepared to endure

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the hardship and dangers that exist here.

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It is awesome. I mean, awesome!

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Thank you, Mustafa.

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There is not another place in the world like this -

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Just this obelisk of rock, that rises so vertically.

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We've been rather fortuitous this afternoon,

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because we were scheduled to go to Trango Base Camp,

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but the glacier conditions are too dangerous

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and we have come to a spot which is exactly where I wanted to be.

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We've got a bit of cloud coming through today

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and it's made a huge difference,

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because instead of the blue sky, which we've seen almost

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solely, for the full trip, so far, it has changed and I'm really delighted

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we've got a bit of drama going on.

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By any standard,

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Colin Prior is one of the world's great landscape photographers.

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For over 30 years, he has meticulously documented

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Scotland's mountains and wild places.

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Whether it is the wind-torn Atlantic beaches of Western Harris

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or the serrated skyline of Skye's Cuillin Ridge,

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he has matched a photographer's eye with the instincts of a mountaineer.

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This image was photographed on the Summer Solstice

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and it was a tremendously warm and bright day and,

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as evening approached, a front came in from the east

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and I thought that would be it over, but it passed very quickly

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and you've got what looks almost like

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a smoke-filled waiting room in a station. The effect was stunning.

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Colin Prior has an instantly-recognisable style.

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Where other people saw mountains rising up vertically,

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paradoxically, he saw them in a different way -

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horizontally.

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Capturing vast, swooping panoramas,

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his photographs were a complete revelation to most people.

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For mountain-goers like me,

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this was a new and inspirational way of seeing our wild places.

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I just felt that the Scottish landscape

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really lent itself to that wide format,

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particularly, if you go up high, and that became a challenge.

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And the first big picture that I ever took

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that really awakened me to the potential of shooting

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at dusk and dawn from elevated positions

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was in Glen Etive, on the November 10, 1990.

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Despite all the times that I've been in the Scottish mountains,

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it remains, probably,

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the single most amazing moment that I've witnessed in mountains.

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Just the combination of the landscape

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and the light that took place there that night.

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I was on the summit of Ben Starav, looking down Glen Etive.

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The sun had been held back all day by cirrus clouds - very frustrating -

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and when we got to the summit, my father and I,

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we realised that there was a big clear band of sky

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between this cirrus cloud and the horizon,

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through which the sun would need to drop and, eventually,

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the sun did drop through that and it was like

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a giant theatre lamp illuminating the landscape.

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It came alive.

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It just burst into colour, with the sun hitting it.

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And that really became the catalyst for my quest to photograph

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the rest of the Scottish landscape in that fashion.

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What I'm trying to capture in my photographs is something

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that doesn't really exist.

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I go out to shoot something that is invisible

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and I'm trying to fuse the landscape together with the most amazing light,

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that turns a landscape from the ordinary into the extraordinary.

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To non-photographers, taking landscape pictures

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might appear easy. In fact, the opposite is true.

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Long periods of time are spent waiting for that fleeting instant,

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when the light is just right.

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Colin Prior spends countless days and nights

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out on the hills and has the patience and tenacity

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to wait for exactly that moment.

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It's that hunger, essentially, that drives you. It's that rat

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in your stomach, which chews away at it from the inside

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and pushes you up these mountains at the wee hours of the morning

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or camping there overnight.

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My whole philosophy about photography is getting it right in the camera.

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You've got to put the legwork in. You have got to go out there

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and there's no substitute of photographing a mountain

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at dusk and dawn.

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With dusk photographs it is sometimes a little easier,

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because you can climb up on to a mountain,

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linger on the summit until the sun drops and you've still, roughly,

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got about 40 minutes of ambient light to get off.

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With sunrise pictures, it's a little bit more complicated,

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because you've got to go there and camp.

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You're carrying, perhaps, 25 kilos up a mountain and,

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each time I do that, I think I'm going to find a way

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to reduce the weight on my back,

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but I can't. I use everything in the rucksack -

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my tent, my cooking equipment -

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I eat all the food and, when I come back,

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there's nothing that I can actually take out that rucksack,

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much to my dismay.

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But if you're prepared to do that, there is the potential

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to shoot something that's absolutely magical.

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Today, Colin spends much of his time passing on his knowledge to others.

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This group have been exploring Inverpolly and Assynt

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and the final day starts with an early trek up Stac Pollaidh,

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hopefully to catch a spectacular dawn.

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Well done, everybody. Great effort.

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If you fancy going to the summit, you know, do it.

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It's not the proper summit, but I find, up there,

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that you lose this perspective on the foreground,

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because you're too elevated.

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'We've been to some fantastic places -

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'beaches and rocks.'

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And it's just great to see the countryside

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from a different perspective. I've walked most of these places

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that we've been, but to come and look at it

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with Colin made quite a difference.

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See, there's a bit of clipping

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in the blue channel, You see that, just, and that's coming from the sky.

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When I see a histogram like that it's always worrying, so you need to use

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less exposure, so what shutter speed and aperture are you working at?

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'I'm no expert, but just looking at his work,'

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you can see the meticulous attention to detail.

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I mean, this guy recces places, he plans,

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he looks at what the weather is going to do,

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he looks at what the tide is going to do. He does his homework.

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He's got a wonderful eye. He sees things in the landscape that,

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yes, if it's pointed out to you afterwards, you might see, as well.

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You can look at his photos for hours and you see more and more

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and he probably saw that before he pressed the shutter.

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-Very impressive.

-They're not the sort of shots

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that I could get by wandering off for a weekend or something.

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Clearly, he has invested a lot of time and a lot of knowledge,

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in terms of the location, the timing and all the rest of it,

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to get the shots that he gets and I think...

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Well, it seems a bit daft to say, but they are exceptional.

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What we, as photographers,

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are attempting to do is to take the three-dimensional world

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in which we live and transform that into the two-dimensional world

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of photography. And we know that it's very, very different.

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And the key to becoming an authoritative photographer

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is understanding the differences between these two states.

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Coming on a course like this, you learn so much, so much.

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It's as much about the locations that Colin is bringing us to

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and his knowledge about the places

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that has been amazing, really, cos anyone can go to a beach

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or a street market and take photos,

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but you can't come here unless you're with somebody

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that really knows what they're talking about and doing.

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Although Colin Prior has established himself as a mountain photographer,

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his first pictures were taken not in the hills,

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but in the depths of the ocean.

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I won Best Newcomer to Underwater Photography and that really gave me

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the confidence to go out and become a photographer.

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But that early success wasn't something you might have predicted.

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At school, I was very much an average performer and,

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in some subjects, a below-average performer.

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I was never very good at anything and, when I discovered photography,

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I realised that I had something special, that I had something unique,

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and I decided that I would try to be

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the very best photographer in my own field.

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'Anybody can pick up a camera, point it and shoot

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'and, if you shoot often enough, you'll get some good pictures,'

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but some of the stuff that he does and then he can explain to you

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what he's doing and why he was doing it.

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It just turns out absolutely fabulous.

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I could never, ever hope to reproduce anything like that myself,

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even if he was standing over my shoulder telling me what to do.

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Pakistan - June, 2013,

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and the start of the biggest challenge of Colin's career.

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He is planning to spend the next five years or so

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meticulously documenting the mountains and valleys

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that form the spectacular Karakoram.

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From the capital, Islamabad, it's a two-day journey north.

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up the notoriously-dangerous Karakoram Highway.

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It's a distance of over 450 miles,

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to where the final road ends, in the frontier village of Askole.

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The Karakoram is not a place you would visit by accident.

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Simply getting here is an adventure in itself -

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and that is part of the attraction.

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The landscape was quite breathtaking. Villages which are, essentially,

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oases, that sit on this high-altitude desert,

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because that's often what people don't understand about this region.

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It's a desert, with these amazing mountains that grow out the stones

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in the Baltoro, but there's very, very little rainfall here.

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We went through some very arid country

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and these villages use irrigation very effectively

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and they're just these green oases of civilisation,

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within an otherwise-barren landscape.

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If you want to photograph the mountains,

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you've just got to make the journey and travel the distance.

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You've got to put up with living on the trail for 40 days,

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in order to get access to these mountains.

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It does take a little bit longer than a run up to Knoydart.

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In Scotland, Colin works by himself, but to photograph in the Karakoram,

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he needs a lot of support.

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There are porters, kitchen staff

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and a specialist crew for Colin and the film team.

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Over 50 people in total, under the leadership of two

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Karakoram veterans - cook and deputy sirdar, Ali,

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and chief sirdar, Karim.

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Without their help, this journey wouldn't be possible.

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In essence, this is a full-scale mountaineering expedition.

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Already, they're at 3,000 metres, where the effects

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of altitude are clearly felt.

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Ahead, lies a six-week journey, that will take them to nearly

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5,000 metres, into the very heart of the Karakoram.

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I can't quite work in the same way as I've done in Scotland,

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where I recce mountain ranges, or specific mountains,

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and then work out the best time of the year to photograph them.

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With this trip, I need to be a little bit more responsive

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and take what's given to me, essentially.

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From Askole, Colin will travel up the Baltoro Glacier,

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staying in a series of camps along the way.

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As he treks east, he wants to produce a definitive

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photographic record of these great mountains.

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The plan is to reach Concordia and Chogolisa, in the Upper Baltoro.

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It's a risky enterprise.

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Pakistan has the reputation

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of being one of the world's least-stable countries.

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The expedition has needed special permission to travel

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throughout this region - the first film crew allowed into this

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highly-sensitive area for years.

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Many people have asked

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why I'm working in Pakistan, because of the security issues there,

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but the landscape is so unique that I need to go and do this project

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and, in many ways,

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the security problem that exists is actually responsible for

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very few people going there, including photographers.

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If the Karakoram Mountains were anywhere else in the world,

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there would probably be about a million people going through them,

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something on the scale of Yosemite, because they have that grandeur.

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But because it is Pakistan and because of the situation

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that exists there, very little has been done.

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I think there have been two books, photographic books, done in Pakistan.

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One in the '70s by Galen Rowell, and the other in the mid-'80s

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by Chiro Siro Hata, a Japanese photographer.

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I'd like to create a body of work before the inevitable

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commercialisation of the Karakoram Mountains begins.

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The trek initially follows the course of the Braldu River.

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The ground here is constantly changing. Rock falls are common.

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Loose scree dominates. There are few places to make camp.

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It's been a long first day

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and that is followed by a 4.00am start next morning.

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Colin wants to exploit every opportunity

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and is determined to catch the first light.

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He originally came here in 1996

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and he has been obsessed with the Karakoram ever since.

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One of the most important aspects of photographing mountains

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is research and that is done simply by being there and having

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probably failed to get an image the first time.

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But it just makes you a little bit more determined

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to get the picture right the next time.

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I think the sun will hit that peak in the next ten to 15 minutes.

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There's not much in the way of drama up there. There's no cloud.

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It's a clear sky, so it's not quite what I'd

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wished for but we should get a result from it.

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When you're there the first time,

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you're able to work out where you want to be and, more importantly,

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when you want to be there.

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And that's not just at dusk or at dawn,

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but at what time of the year you need to be there and that,

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ultimately, will be dictated by the position of the sun in the sky.

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I am expecting the light to come up any minute,

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but there's no doubt that it's being held back

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by a slightly bigger mountain, because the surrounding mountains

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are already being illuminated by this light,

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so we just need this light to come down the mountain a bit.

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Knowing there's a long day's trek ahead,

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the porters are already starting to move camp.

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But in the hope of catching a powerful image,

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Colin has decided to stay put a bit longer.

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That's the light just piercing the very summit, at the moment,

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so within the next five or ten minutes,

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it will begin to illuminate that tower there.

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Fantastic just to watch and witness this.

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Today, waiting for the light has been a frustrating experience.

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As often, with this kind of photography,

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the sunrise didn't quite materialise.

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In Scotland, this would be a mere irritation.

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In Pakistan, for someone who is a perfectionist,

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-it's a significant set back.

-I'm really quite disappointed

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by the combination of the light and the landscape.

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The snow is a little bit patchy.

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By the time the light caught the peak,

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it had, sort of, cleaned up.

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Instead of it being pink, or even that yellowness

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that you get in the light, it is actually white light

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that's up there and there's not enough

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modelling in this. It is still a very one-dimensional landscape.

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You can never tell if you're going to be successful in the morning

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or in the evening. You've just got to get up and try.

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You might think

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you've got a great photograph, but until you actually see

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the combination of light on the landscape,

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you just don't know. And I'm afraid, this morning,

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it's just been a bit of an anti-climax.

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What I'm really looking for with these mountain photographs

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is to use these fine shapes and graphics, but to match them with

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the very finest light that I can find, so you've got this fusion

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of landscape and light. And, sometimes, you'll find it,

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most often, you won't. But when you do, it's a fantastic feeling.

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You know you've captured a unique moment that will never repeat itself.

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Compared with the popular region of Everest,

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relatively few people come to the Karakoram.

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Even today, information and maps are hard to come by.

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To fully understand this area,

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you also need to know its history and, in Colin's case,

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its photographic history.

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So, his expedition began with a visit to Chris Bartell,

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a specialist antiquarian bookseller in Pitlochry.

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The piece de resistance

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I've got to show you is this book here,

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which is a huge volume. There are actually two volumes.

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This is the first volume,

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cos this was published in 1912, and this is the Duke of Abruzzi's

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expedition in 1909.

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And on the expedition was the photographer, Vittorio Sella,

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who had a fantastic reputation and this book superbly illustrates it.

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His photography is just remarkable, it really is, and the photographs

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taken in this book were shot with a camera that he had made in London,

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in mahogany, by a company called Dallmeyer,

0:25:150:25:20

and the negatives were 11 by 14 inches in size, glass negatives,

0:25:200:25:25

which were then processed on the glacier.

0:25:250:25:29

What I find absolutely amazing is the fact that they still

0:25:290:25:33

had to get these glass negatives down the Baltoro Glacier.

0:25:330:25:37

All it would have taken would have been the slip of a Balti's foot

0:25:370:25:42

-and that image would have become oblivion.

-This is volume two, Colin -

0:25:420:25:46

maps and panoramas from the expedition.

0:25:460:25:49

And this is what is really special, some huge pull-out panoramas.

0:25:490:25:55

These are fantastic. These are Vittorio's original panoramas.

0:25:550:25:58

-101 years old.

-Just fantastic to see these original photographs.

0:25:580:26:02

This actually shows where the panoramas were taken from.

0:26:020:26:07

It's really quite a detailed map.

0:26:070:26:09

-The actual locations that Vittorio took these photographs from?

-Yeah.

0:26:090:26:13

-These are all marked here. You can see where...

-That's fantastic.

0:26:130:26:17

..exactly where the photographs were taken.

0:26:170:26:19

That'll give me an exact positioning for some of those photographs,

0:26:190:26:24

because there are one or two that I hope to replicate,

0:26:240:26:27

because what I think we'll see is quite a big change in the condition

0:26:270:26:33

that the glacier is in now.

0:26:330:26:35

You see all the major peaks. K2, of course, at the top here.

0:26:350:26:39

Gasherbrum, another one of the 8,000-metre peaks.

0:26:390:26:42

You've got Hidden Peak and, down here, we've got Masherbrum.

0:26:420:26:45

Let's look at one of the panoramas, Colin.

0:26:470:26:49

Here's one looking directly at K2.

0:26:500:26:54

This is from the Godwin-Austen Glacier.

0:26:540:26:57

Just tremendous. You can see that, sort of,

0:26:570:27:02

-pyramidal.

-The classic, sort of, image we see of K2, isn't it?

0:27:020:27:07

Perhaps one of the most impressive amongst them all is this one.

0:27:070:27:11

This is one of my favourites - looking towards Concordia,

0:27:110:27:17

from somewhere, I think, high in Golden Throne.

0:27:170:27:20

I think this panorama is a very, very good visual summary

0:27:200:27:25

-of the Baltoro Glacier.

-It gives you some idea of the height, doesn't it?

0:27:250:27:29

You've got the people in the foreground. That's quite special.

0:27:290:27:33

These are wonderful to see, they really are.

0:27:330:27:36

And what a place the world would have been, just back then,

0:27:390:27:43

just over 100 years ago.

0:27:430:27:45

If there's one image of Sella's that Colin is keen to replicate,

0:27:470:27:50

it's the view looking back down the Baltoro Glacier.

0:27:500:27:53

But it won't be easy.

0:27:540:27:56

The glacier has changed enormously in the intervening century

0:27:560:28:00

and it's not entirely clear where the Italian photographer

0:28:000:28:03

placed his tripod.

0:28:030:28:05

And things have changed in other ways, too.

0:28:070:28:10

Sella was part of the Duke of Abruzzi's

0:28:100:28:13

abortive attempt to climb K2.

0:28:130:28:16

The Duke didn't reach the summit, but did set a new altitude record.

0:28:170:28:21

His team had the luxury of being here for six months.

0:28:220:28:25

Colin has just six weeks.

0:28:250:28:27

The two expeditions couldn't be more different.

0:28:290:28:33

He landed in Bombay with six tons of equipment,

0:28:330:28:38

which was all transported from Bombay to Rawalpindi,

0:28:380:28:42

largely on animals and, after that, on the backs of men.

0:28:420:28:46

It was run very much like a military campaign and very successfully.

0:28:510:28:55

And the Duke, because of his resources, had artisans

0:28:550:28:59

that helped create the equipment they needed here,

0:28:590:29:03

because much of the equipment was new and had to be evolved.

0:29:030:29:08

The group had sleeping bags which were made in modular systems -

0:29:150:29:20

one was camel hair, there was a second eiderdown layer and, then,

0:29:200:29:25

there was a goatskin covered with canvas, which waterproofed that.

0:29:250:29:29

These bags could be used individually, which would suit

0:29:320:29:36

the different climates between Bombay and the Karakoram,

0:29:360:29:39

or they could be used together, when the temperatures were cold.

0:29:390:29:43

The team are now heading for camp at Paiyu.

0:29:450:29:48

Already, they are at 3,500 metres and will stay here for one night.

0:29:480:29:53

Even so, the whole camp needs to be established on a cramped

0:29:550:29:58

site of rocky terrain above the valley floor.

0:29:580:30:01

As always on trek, there are plenty of running repairs to do.

0:30:040:30:07

INDISTINCT SPEECH

0:30:130:30:16

The next morning, everyone begins the journey northwest

0:30:290:30:32

up a subsidiary glacier.

0:30:320:30:34

We're heading towards the Uli Biaho,

0:30:340:30:37

a higher camp which should give outstanding views of one

0:30:370:30:40

of the most famous set of peaks in the Karakoram, Trango Towers.

0:30:400:30:45

HE SPEAKS NATIVE LANGUAGE

0:30:450:30:48

Colin plans to stay here for a few days, hoping for the opportunity

0:30:570:31:02

to photograph this place at its most dramatic.

0:31:020:31:05

The big iconic pictures still drive me

0:31:060:31:09

and they're really crucial to this project.

0:31:090:31:12

I've really got to get images that transcend what trekkers

0:31:120:31:17

can shoot on a trip like this.

0:31:170:31:20

The challenge I have with this project is how to vary these

0:31:240:31:28

shots with other types of images that essentially will change the pace.

0:31:280:31:34

Just coming in a bit closer.

0:31:360:31:37

Thank you. Thank you very much.

0:31:400:31:42

I'll come and show you the photo on the computer. Two minutes.

0:31:440:31:48

'If there are too many big shots, it means that you become bored,

0:31:510:31:58

'visually bored by the similarity of the images within this landscape.'

0:31:580:32:06

Very handsome. Very handsome.

0:32:080:32:11

'We're all bombarded on a daily basis by millions of images

0:32:110:32:17

'and photographers are able to distil these images from that chaos

0:32:170:32:23

'by using the juxtaposition of colours, of graphics,

0:32:230:32:28

'of distilling the lines within the landscape so that they can

0:32:280:32:31

'create an image that the eye can navigate, and this is crucial.'

0:32:310:32:36

OK, that looks good.

0:32:380:32:40

I just need... Excuse me. Just...

0:32:400:32:42

That's it.

0:32:440:32:45

OK, see where my hand is, just look at my hand.

0:32:480:32:51

Good, thank you very much. Come and see.

0:32:510:32:54

There is no shortage of images in these mountains,

0:33:010:33:04

whether it is the big landscape or portraits of the team.

0:33:040:33:08

But between the photographic sessions, Colin is keen to find

0:33:100:33:14

more details about Vittorio Sella's key image from 1909.

0:33:140:33:19

Although Sella left detailed notes, the exact location of

0:33:200:33:24

where he took this particular photograph isn't clear.

0:33:240:33:27

Today, the Baltoro looks very different.

0:33:290:33:31

Colin asks Ali and Karim to help him.

0:33:330:33:36

For me, this is a visual summary of the Karakoram.

0:33:360:33:40

You've got the Muztagh Tower.

0:33:400:33:42

K2. And this is Gasherbrum IV, I think.

0:33:420:33:45

We've got Concordia in here, the Baltoro. And Vittorio,

0:33:450:33:49

he put these porters in, he put them in in the darkroom, he put them in

0:33:490:33:53

after he took the photograph.

0:33:530:33:56

And I think the reason that he's added these figures into

0:33:570:34:01

his photograph is because photography in 1909 was such a new medium.

0:34:010:34:06

And because the figures are in, it gives an impression of scale

0:34:060:34:11

so people could look at them and think,

0:34:110:34:14

look at how huge these mountains are.

0:34:140:34:16

Look how impressive they are.

0:34:160:34:19

-We're arriving at the Concordia.

-OK.

-The other group rest there.

0:34:190:34:22

Me and you, we will go in together,

0:34:220:34:26

-maybe two hours walking, and then we will show you.

-OK.

0:34:260:34:32

And so we can find this photograph.

0:34:320:34:36

Here it's gone.

0:34:360:34:38

There's been great recall upon the expertise and experience

0:34:440:34:47

that we've got in this room.

0:34:470:34:49

And I think we've clearly identified where we need to be to replicate

0:34:490:34:54

the images that Sella took in 1909.

0:34:540:34:57

So, I'm really excited and looking forward to the challenge.

0:34:570:35:00

Before leaving Uli Biaho, Colin needs to capture

0:35:020:35:06

a key image of the Trango Towers.

0:35:060:35:08

Although its main summit is over 2,000 metres lower than

0:35:100:35:13

the highest mountain in the region, K2,

0:35:130:35:15

its cliffs are some of the tallest in the world.

0:35:150:35:18

We're waiting for just a little bit of drama here.

0:35:200:35:24

I was up here this morning for the dawn but, as I expected,

0:35:240:35:27

there was slightly too much shadow and now we've fantastic clarity

0:35:270:35:33

but it's a little one dimensional.

0:35:330:35:35

I'm hoping that the cumulus will build up over the snow fields

0:35:350:35:40

and start to give us some white puffy clouds behind the towers there.

0:35:400:35:44

And that's going to give us a much, much better picture.

0:35:440:35:46

It's currently about 10 o'clock.

0:35:530:35:56

I think if I hang around here until probably 1.00 or 2.00,

0:35:560:36:00

I'll get the result I want.

0:36:000:36:02

And it's really not that bad a place to hang around in.

0:36:020:36:05

Now Colin continues his journey up the Baltoro Glacier,

0:36:570:37:01

moving over a landscape of loose rock and ice.

0:37:010:37:04

But the rewards are immense

0:37:050:37:07

as he makes his way to the next camp, Urdukas.

0:37:070:37:11

At over 4,000 metres,

0:37:110:37:13

the camp looks out to some of the great sites of the Karakoram.

0:37:130:37:16

But the tone of the whole expedition is about to change.

0:37:190:37:23

Other trekkers at the camp site have shocking news.

0:37:230:37:27

In the nearby Nanga Parbat region, 11 people have been

0:37:270:37:31

killed in an attack by a previously unknown terrorist group.

0:37:310:37:35

We just learned about the atrocity that took place

0:37:360:37:40

at Nanga Parbat base camp, which we were in complete ignorance of.

0:37:400:37:44

Absolutely devastated to hear the news

0:37:440:37:47

and my thoughts are with the families of the climbers

0:37:470:37:51

and the Pakistanis who lost their lives during that atrocity.

0:37:510:37:54

We've also learned from our sirdar that the cook on

0:37:580:38:02

that particular trip on to the Diamir Face at Nanga Parbat

0:38:020:38:07

is actually from his village.

0:38:070:38:09

He leaves behind a wife and children who have no means of support,

0:38:090:38:15

so it's not just been an attack against Westerners,

0:38:150:38:18

it's also been an attack against Pakistani nationals.

0:38:180:38:21

Whilst everyone is appalled by the loss of life,

0:38:240:38:28

there are also major consequences for the local people

0:38:280:38:30

who make up the support team.

0:38:300:38:33

In the ten days since the attack, many governments have

0:38:330:38:37

advised against any travel to Pakistan.

0:38:370:38:40

The porters here will have very little work because most of

0:38:400:38:44

the travel companies have cancelled their trekking parties this year.

0:38:440:38:48

Already, many of the porters have lost their complete income

0:38:500:38:55

and, without that money, the existence of many of the porters

0:38:550:38:59

for the rest of the year is going to be very frugal.

0:38:590:39:03

These attacks don't just affect global security but they do really

0:39:070:39:12

affect the livelihoods of the people that live on the ground in Pakistan.

0:39:120:39:16

The Pakistan Government is concerned for everyone's safety

0:39:190:39:23

and the team discuss what to do next.

0:39:230:39:26

This part of the country is politically stable and the local

0:39:260:39:31

people are proud of their reputation for protecting foreigners.

0:39:310:39:34

With that knowledge,

0:39:340:39:37

Colin decides to stay on and continue with his work.

0:39:370:39:40

Next morning, he is up early.

0:39:470:39:49

Not only to take more photographs but also to try and solve the riddle

0:39:500:39:54

of where Vittorio Sella took his famous picture all those years ago.

0:39:540:39:58

But now Colin realises that the landscape

0:40:010:40:04

he is looking at has altered even more dramatically than he expected.

0:40:040:40:08

I think what's happened is that climate change has affected

0:40:080:40:12

the weather here. The glaciers are most definitely smaller.

0:40:120:40:16

Even I can see the differences since 2004.

0:40:160:40:18

The weather patterns aren't as stable as they were,

0:40:180:40:21

I think, when Vittorio was coming.

0:40:210:40:24

Many of his images are very, very clear and snowy too.

0:40:240:40:28

So I think he experienced a very different type of landscape

0:40:280:40:31

and climatic conditions at that time.

0:40:310:40:33

Technology has moved on and there is no point in trying to replicate

0:40:460:40:51

his large format images, which were glass negatives.

0:40:510:40:54

I'm working with the latest digital cameras

0:40:590:41:02

and this little unit here is a GPS receiver.

0:41:020:41:07

In the Exif data, it is giving me the co-ordinates and the altitude

0:41:070:41:11

that I'm shooting from.

0:41:110:41:13

The technology does not help with the light.

0:41:160:41:18

I'm confronted with exactly the same problems as every other

0:41:180:41:21

photographer is shooting landscape. It either happens or it doesn't.

0:41:210:41:26

And as I say to people, you can't make it, you've got to let it.

0:41:260:41:30

Today, Colin's patience is rewarded.

0:41:330:41:36

The light suddenly improves and he is able to capture

0:41:360:41:39

the drama of the Great Trango and Cathedral Towers.

0:41:390:41:43

The expedition now enters one of the most spectacular places on Earth.

0:41:460:41:52

A two-day journey will take the team to Concordia

0:41:520:41:55

and the classic view of K2 - the world's second highest mountain.

0:41:550:42:00

But getting there won't be easy.

0:42:000:42:03

We're crossing the Baltoro tomorrow on a completely new route.

0:42:030:42:08

Is that going to be difficult?

0:42:080:42:11

Not so difficult.

0:42:120:42:14

Yesterday, I sent my son and another porter,

0:42:140:42:19

looking this way,

0:42:190:42:22

he asked me and put the stones there.

0:42:220:42:28

-Marker stones?

-Marker stones, yes.

0:42:280:42:30

We're currently at an altitude of 4,500 metres

0:42:500:42:54

and you can really feel it when you're moving about.

0:42:540:42:57

If you try and move uphill, it fairly slows you down

0:42:570:43:01

and it's just a combination of acclimatising and patience.

0:43:010:43:06

The big difference between working in Scotland and Pakistan is that

0:43:110:43:16

you're totally dependent on the team that's behind you.

0:43:160:43:21

It's not just a simple exercise of watching the weather

0:43:210:43:24

and travelling on to location.

0:43:240:43:27

Here, you need to organise a huge logistic team.

0:43:270:43:30

As someone that's not unfamiliar with hauling 25 kilos up

0:43:340:43:39

to mountain tops, I take my hat off to these porters because they're

0:43:390:43:43

carrying 35 kilos, in this altitude, up the most arduous slopes.

0:43:430:43:49

Travelling in this environment becomes progressively more difficult

0:44:100:44:14

because there's less and less air

0:44:140:44:16

and the opportunities to wash are minimal.

0:44:160:44:20

I mean, I'm actually terrified to look at myself in a mirror,

0:44:200:44:24

which I haven't done for the last four or five days.

0:44:240:44:27

To achieve the images that I want for this project,

0:44:380:44:43

I'm prepared really to put up with a great deal of personal sacrifice.

0:44:430:44:48

I don't see it as sacrifice, it's something that's necessary

0:44:480:44:52

to achieve these images.

0:44:520:44:54

And if that means I have to get up during the night,

0:44:560:44:59

if that means that I have to sacrifice the comforts of my normal

0:44:590:45:05

living standards, if it means using a toilet tent for the next four weeks,

0:45:050:45:10

these are all part and parcel of achieving what is in my imagination.

0:45:100:45:15

There are very few luxuries on trek and the kitchen

0:45:290:45:32

really are responsible for providing most of them.

0:45:320:45:36

It's quite amazing what they seem to be able to cook up

0:45:360:45:39

in these hostile environments.

0:45:390:45:41

THEY SPEAK NATIVE LANGUAGE

0:45:460:45:49

The challenges of day-to-day living on the glacier are a bit tedious.

0:45:490:45:54

Just having to organise your tent

0:45:540:45:57

in a way that allows you to find everything,

0:45:570:46:00

from a head torch to ear plugs to drinking water.

0:46:000:46:05

And it becomes very much a routine.

0:46:050:46:08

You've got to really organise yourself in a way that

0:46:090:46:13

allows you to operate whenever the conditions dictate.

0:46:130:46:17

Once camp is established at Concordia, Colin wants to work

0:46:200:46:24

amongst the ice sculptures that are exposed on the glacier.

0:46:240:46:28

It falls into a very deep cavern.

0:46:280:46:30

But even the simple task of taking a photograph is complicated

0:46:360:46:40

and has its dangers.

0:46:400:46:41

There's a big difference between being here as a trekker

0:46:420:46:46

and on holiday and being here as a working photographer.

0:46:460:46:50

In terms of daily photographic tasks,

0:46:540:46:58

I've got a personal porter that will carry my bag.

0:46:580:47:02

This isn't through vanity.

0:47:020:47:04

It's got to do with the altitude that we're in here.

0:47:040:47:09

It takes me all my effort to get up the hills that I need to get up

0:47:090:47:14

in order to get my photograph.

0:47:140:47:15

I have a great porter called Mustafa,

0:47:190:47:22

and he carries my cameras in a rucksack and comes with me

0:47:220:47:28

to all the locations, regardless of whether it is dusk or dawn.

0:47:280:47:31

I've visualised an image here which was very much about

0:47:410:47:45

the white ice around here and the turquoise colours.

0:47:450:47:49

And yet, I've got the mountains and the moraine working against me.

0:47:490:47:53

It's a picture that's just not really speaking to me.

0:47:570:48:00

It's too complex.

0:48:000:48:01

What I like to try and do is simplify the pictures.

0:48:010:48:05

The mistake that is often made

0:48:050:48:07

is that photographers try and get too much in.

0:48:070:48:10

That's what I've done here, I'm getting too much in.

0:48:100:48:13

So I'm going to have to move...

0:48:130:48:15

..when I catch my breath.

0:48:180:48:19

HE PANTS

0:48:200:48:22

Just get my breath.

0:48:300:48:31

I think the only alternative that we've got is

0:48:330:48:36

to head up over the top of the glacier there and try

0:48:360:48:41

and get closer to the ice cave, where the colours are.

0:48:410:48:44

We've found a second location just a little on from the first stop,

0:48:510:48:56

which is a whole lot better.

0:48:560:48:59

Much simpler graphic, a big archway of ice and a river bending

0:48:590:49:05

and flowing towards me.

0:49:050:49:06

It was a little precarious setting the photograph up

0:49:060:49:10

because there was a sort of scree sitting on top of the ice.

0:49:100:49:14

As I moved to and from the camera, I began to push the scree away

0:49:140:49:18

and found myself literally skating on ice.

0:49:180:49:22

But I'm very pleased with the image

0:49:220:49:24

and I avoided the rather black, gravelly glacier and

0:49:240:49:28

the mountains behind, and distilled the image really from the landscape.

0:49:280:49:33

High on the Baltoro Glacier,

0:49:490:49:51

the weather is every bit as fickle as in Scotland.

0:49:510:49:55

This morning, the mountains are shrouded in a blanket of mist.

0:49:550:49:59

It's difficult to express the scale of this mountain landscape,

0:50:010:50:06

particularly when you can't see the summits.

0:50:060:50:10

But when they do reveal themselves, it makes you feel so insignificant,

0:50:100:50:14

so tiny, and although the Karakoram is a big area, it's also quite

0:50:140:50:19

a small geographical area

0:50:190:50:23

with four 8,000 metre peaks.

0:50:230:50:25

There are also 30 mountains that are over 7,500 metres,

0:50:270:50:31

all within this very small, concentrated area.

0:50:310:50:35

The Concordia itself is a bit like a giant earth-moving site.

0:50:420:50:46

The constant movement of the glacier

0:50:460:50:49

changes the profiles from year to year.

0:50:490:50:52

I was here nine years ago and it was considerably different.

0:50:520:50:56

The campsite that we're on now is much higher than we were before,

0:50:560:51:01

and the access routes have also changed to the different glaciers.

0:51:010:51:05

So it's a landscape that's forming, continually forming

0:51:050:51:09

and it is these forces that I'm trying to capture in my photography.

0:51:090:51:14

From Concordia, there's a final push southeast

0:51:330:51:37

on the Upper Baltoro Glacier to Chogolisa Base Camp at 4,732 metres.

0:51:370:51:44

Now Colin should be within striking distance of where

0:51:450:51:48

Vittorio Sella took his famous picture.

0:51:480:51:51

From this location, we can see the Muztagh Tower for the first time.

0:51:510:51:55

And this is really the key to the Sella photograph.

0:51:550:51:58

We need to move here in a direction that separates it from the landscape.

0:51:580:52:04

It has now become clear that the changes in the glacier

0:52:080:52:12

are making access extremely difficult.

0:52:120:52:14

It might not be possible to reach Sella's vantage point after all.

0:52:160:52:20

Looking from a high point, the glacier is particularly distorted.

0:52:220:52:26

It's a very challenging environment.

0:52:260:52:29

The glacier is covered with millions of rocks

0:52:290:52:33

disguising many of the crevasses that are there.

0:52:330:52:36

Sella's photograph to me sums up perfection.

0:52:400:52:43

It's a bit like a gallery of shape and form.

0:52:440:52:47

Every one of the big mountains is in shot and it's the combination

0:52:470:52:52

of the shapes, some of them towers, some of them minarets.

0:52:520:52:57

You've got the pyramidal shape of K2

0:52:570:53:00

and then you've got the very angular Gasherbrum.

0:53:000:53:04

It's a landscape that you won't find anywhere else in the world.

0:53:050:53:08

The expedition is now running out of time.

0:53:130:53:16

This year, the snow conditions on the mountains

0:53:160:53:19

are particularly unstable.

0:53:190:53:22

In the timescale available, it is impossible to go any higher

0:53:220:53:26

without risking a serious and possibly fatal accident.

0:53:260:53:30

It suddenly became very obvious that Sella's photograph

0:53:300:53:34

was taken at altitude, probably about 6,000 metres.

0:53:340:53:39

And we don't, within our itinerary, have the time to spend here

0:53:390:53:44

to acclimatise to allow us to go to 6,000 metres.

0:53:440:53:48

The photograph is also taken at the top of the Chogolisa Ice Fall,

0:53:480:53:53

which is a very tortuous glacier with many seracs and crevasses.

0:53:530:53:57

So, now that I've finally found the position that Sella

0:54:020:54:06

took his photograph, I've even more respect for the tenacity

0:54:060:54:11

of these early explorers, because they were in locations

0:54:110:54:14

that are prohibited to the vast majority of us.

0:54:140:54:18

After a year of detailed planning

0:54:190:54:22

and a Herculean effort by the whole team,

0:54:220:54:24

everyone must now turn back to Concordia.

0:54:240:54:28

But the expedition is far from a failure.

0:54:300:54:33

Colin has produced a number of images that will stand alongside

0:54:330:54:37

those of Sella.

0:54:370:54:40

Amongst these will be one that captures the majesty and grandeur

0:54:400:54:44

of K2, looking its most spectacular after an overnight snowfall.

0:54:440:54:50

I'm just hoping to get a bit more light into the amphitheatre.

0:54:500:54:55

We've had that sort of pink-yellow light this morning

0:54:550:54:58

just on the very tops, which was wonderful.

0:54:580:55:01

It's a bit dominated by shadow at the moment

0:55:040:55:07

and good landscape photographs are always a blend of light and shadow.

0:55:070:55:13

There's just a little bit too much shadow at the moment.

0:55:130:55:16

It's a little concerning that the clouds are beginning to sail in

0:55:190:55:23

and look like they will maybe settle on the summits,

0:55:230:55:26

but we'll need to wait and see.

0:55:260:55:28

It's absolutely fantastic, though.

0:55:410:55:43

The Baltoro Glacier has been covered with a fresh dusting of snow,

0:55:430:55:47

which has really lifted the aesthetic value of it photographically.

0:55:470:55:51

It just so happened in the space of the last hour-and-a-half,

0:56:160:56:21

we're getting some elevation on the light now

0:56:210:56:24

and it is really beginning to pick up the features on K2 there.

0:56:240:56:29

We're just really at the point where it is at its best.

0:56:310:56:35

Some clouds forming up over the Abruzzi ridge.

0:56:350:56:40

It's really the king of mountains.

0:56:420:56:44

It might be smaller than Mount Everest

0:56:440:56:47

but it is certainly the most powerful graphically.

0:56:470:56:53

We see our own heart in a landscape and, once adopted,

0:57:020:57:06

a landscape ceases to become just an entity but a state of imagination.

0:57:060:57:12

And that, for me, is what the Karakoram is about.

0:57:120:57:16

I think I've been very lucky

0:57:240:57:26

because I'm one of the few professional photographers

0:57:260:57:29

that have lived my own dreams.

0:57:290:57:31

You always know when you've got the picture.

0:57:560:57:59

If you have to ask yourself, have I got the picture,

0:57:590:58:02

the answer is always no.

0:58:020:58:04

When you've got a great picture, it screams out at you,

0:58:040:58:08

"Here I am, aren't you clever?

0:58:080:58:10

"Look what you've done, look at me."

0:58:100:58:13

And I'm pretty sure this morning

0:58:130:58:16

I'm going to have one or two of these images.

0:58:160:58:19

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