Mali Harries: Y Thar Yr Anialwch


Mali Harries: Y Thar

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-The desert -

-arid, desolate, uncompromising.

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-A barren landscape

-that extends far and wide.

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-But it is

-in these unfamiliar places...

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-..that nature thrives

-and inhabitants dwell.

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-With vigour and resilience,

-they have learnt to survive...

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-..and forged a unique way of life.

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-But today, the modern world

-is turning the screw.

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-Trade and industry

-are coveting the desert's resources.

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-Natives have had to adapt

-quicker than ever before.

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-This is the story

-of resilient and tenacious people...

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-..striving for the right to live...

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-..in the most

-challenging places on earth.

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-Barren,

-with no vegetation, animals...

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-..or people.

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-That's what

-you'd expect from a desert.

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-But the Thar breaks every rule.

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-This is a desert

-in the Rajasthan province of India.

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-It's paradise for me since I always

-try to capture life's beauty...

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-..through the lens of my camera.

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-For centuries people have settled in

-the Thar, despite the lack of water.

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-I can't see a thing!

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-But there has been

-a sharp increase in its population.

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-I'm on a journey to discover

-the reasons behind this rise.

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-The desert is full of contrasts.

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-Some refer to the Thar

-as the Land of the Dead...

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-..since it's so arid and infertile.

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-But as I look around...

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-..that description

-is far from the truth.

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-The Thar is alive

-and teeming with life.

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-23 million currently live here.

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-In a place

-with so few natural resources...

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-..how is it able to sustain

-such a multitude of people?

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-How do they feed themselves?

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-How are they able

-to survive here at all?

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-My photographic journey

-begins in Jaisalmer.

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-It's a strange place to begin.

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-A city in the heart of the desert.

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-King Rawal Jaisal chose this site

-to found the city 1,000 years ago.

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-They say the king

-received an order to build here.

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-An order

-from Lord Krishna in heaven.

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-A wise move, if you ask me!

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-Jaisalmer is situated in an oasis...

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-..along an ancient trade route

-between Asia and Europe.

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-For centuries

-people traded silk and spices...

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-..among many other luxury goods

-and Jaisalmer was thriving.

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-But the city has never before

-experienced such a population rise.

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-The increase threatens

-to undermine the very wonder...

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-..that attracts tourists here.

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-This is the spectacular fort

-built by Rawal Jaisal.

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-It's undoubtedly

-one of India's treasures.

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-More than 5,000 people

-live within the fort's walls.

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-Over half a million tourists

-come here annually...

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-..and each one needs water.

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-Where does that water go?

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-Unfortunately, it seeps right down

-to this fort's foundations.

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-The fort is built on sand...

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-..and water threatens to

-destabilize the entire structure.

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-It's a very serious situation...

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-..especially for those who live in

-the shadow of the ancient buildings.

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-You can get a very good view of

-the problems from here, this spot.

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-The challenge

-is to treat the problem...

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-..without endangering the residents.

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-Sabir has just explained to me

-about this tower.

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-It's coming away from the main

-building, leaving an enormous gap.

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-It's a problem for families

-living underneath here.

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-They're going to pull it down safely

-to protect the families.

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-Bindhu Manchanda

-is well accustomed to the problem.

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-She leads a team

-of craftsmen and experts...

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-..who are struggling

-to restore the fort.

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-Bindhu says water is the enemy.

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-This fort is not made for water.

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-There was no tap water here before.

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-Then, in the 1970s, tap water

-was introduced for residents.

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-Tap water

-was a blessing for the residents...

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-..but a tragedy for the fort.

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-Proper drainage systems

-were not established.

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-There were some in place

-but they weren't adequate.

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-With a growth in tourism, many

-converted their homes into hotels.

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-Crowds came here

-on their holidays...

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-..and used more and more water.

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-The technical problems

-are complex...

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-..but they must be solved

-without impinging on the lives...

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-..of the residents.

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-This place is like a museum.

-It's incredibly pretty.

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-You could say it's living and

-breathing through the people here.

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-To preserve it and maintain its

-cultural identity is very important.

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-The architecture is formidable.

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-The purpose of the fretwork

-is to allow cold air to circulate...

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-..to regulate

-the temperature inside.

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-It's important for the restorers...

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-..to replicate the skills

-of the ancient craftsmen.

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-One member of the team

-has experienced...

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-..walking the path of his ancestors.

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-We started producing

-our own lime 15 years ago.

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-This camel has been working for us

-throughout that time.

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-He's our camel lime expert!

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-I'd say that Bindhu's

-in love with the fort.

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-There are so many things

-about this fort that are dear to me.

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-The fact that it's made

-of that one same stone.

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-The colour is so soothing.

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-It was built during a time

-when the desert had no resources.

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-No water, no trees,

-no greenery at all.

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-But through skill and hard work...

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-..the people erected

-this beautiful building.

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-There's a wonderful ambience

-here in Jaisalmer.

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-The fort is strong and imposing -

-it's been here for centuries.

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-It'd be a huge shame

-if the balance was lost.

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-If they don't sustain the balance

-between tourism...

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-..and the traditions

-of the people...

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-..it'd be a pity because generations

-to come wouldn't be part of it.

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-But with Bindhu on board,

-I'm sure they'll succeed.

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-I've come to

-the Thar Desert in India...

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-..to witness how quickly

-desert life is changing.

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-The old way of life and the old

-modes of transport are under threat.

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-For centuries, the camels have

-carried people across the desert.

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-This is a creature

-that has adapted perfectly.

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-With strength and stamina,

-it can transport people and goods...

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-..over vast distances

-of parched land.

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-But change is on the horizon.

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-In the past decade,

-the number of camels has halved.

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-As lorries and 4x4 vehicles

-replace the camel...

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-..this beast's future is uncertain.

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-In order to learn more...

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-..I visit a research centre...

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-..where they are weighing up

-the camel's future.

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-Apparently the camel's problems

-begin at a young age.

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-This is a little pet calf.

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-He's been rejected by his mother.

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-They tell me

-the calf's mouth is too big...

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-..and the mother's teat

-is too small.

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-He will have to be bottle fed

-until he's six months.

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-He will eat solids at three months.

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-His legs are bent because

-he's not getting enough milk.

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-More calcium

-will straighten his legs.

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-This one needs help.

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-It's the scientists' aim is to

-learn more about the milk's virtues.

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-Lots of milk must be tested.

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-I've never milked a camel before.

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-The calf's

-going straight for the bucket.

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-Because the milk's squirting over

-the bucket, the calf's going for it.

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-The milk doesn't just provide

-nutrition for the calf.

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-It's a tradition in the Thar

-to feed camel's milk to babies...

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-..who are unable

-to tolerate breast or cow's milk.

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-This camel was born last night.

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-She's feeding from her mother.

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-This milk has many virtues...

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-..and I'm here

-to find out more about it.

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-Research at the centre's laboratory

-is led by Dr Nitin Patil...

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-..who's discovering if camel's milk

-has health benefits for adults...

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-..as well as babies.

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-Dr Patil explained that this machine

-analyses the milk's quality.

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-It records calcium levels,

-types of protein and temperature.

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-They're searching for a special

-protein called beta-lactoglobelin...

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-Beta-lactoglobelin.

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-..which is an alternative

-if you have an allergy to milk.

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-They're conducting research

-into that as well.

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-Beta-lactoglobelin.

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-However the chemical is pronounced,

-the milk has health benefits.

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-But there is

-more than one way to take it.

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-Here at the centre...

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-..Dr Patil is eager to make sure

-the visitors enjoy the taste.

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-It's been made

-into ice cream called kulfi.

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-This helps with diabetes, asthma...

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-..tuberculosis, people experiencing

-hair loss or skin complaints.

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-It contains many nutrients,

-so I'm going to try one.

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-The crew's having one too.

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-Right, here goes.

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-I'm enjoying myself. I'm on holiday!

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-Another unique facet

-to Dr Patil's centre...

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-..is the way in which the scientists

-and the Raika tribe work together.

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-The Raika are traditional herders.

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-Nobody understands camels

-better than them.

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-HE SPEAKS HINDI

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-The mother, the grandmother.

-I recognise every generation.

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-There's the daughter.

-There's the mother.

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-We know them

-as well as we know our own children.

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-Remembering the names of the camels

-is one thing...

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-..but there's only one way

-to get a know a creature like this.

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-I suppose you must get on a camel if

-you're at a camel research centre.

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-I just need to find the stirrup.

-I've short little legs.

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-I've never done this before.

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-OK, I'll hold this. Straight back.

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-Think Shan Cothi

-on the back of a horse!

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-Right, off we go.

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-If I'm not back in five minutes...

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-..phone Ela and Tomi

-and tell them I'm fine!

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-SHE SHRIEKS

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-The team's work

-isn't just restricted to the centre.

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-We're following the scientists

-to a village in the desert...

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-..where they're

-setting up a clinic...

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-..so that farmers can

-get advice and treatment for free.

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-The clinic

-always receives a warm welcome...

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-..from the villagers,

-if not the camels.

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-CAMEL BRAYS

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-It's obvious this is not

-only beneficial for the camels.

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-Scientists study the relationship...

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-..between the camel

-and their herders.

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-They're part of the family.

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-They give us milk and they're our

-means of delivering drinking water.

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-Villagers rely on these camels

-for their everyday needs...

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-..and for the future

-of their families in the desert.

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-Usually, the herders treat the

-camels with traditional medicine...

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-..but sometimes they're pleased

-to receive expert advice.

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-The scientists ask the farmers

-about their camels' health...

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-..and then they

-can examine them and treat them.

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-I've seen them giving antibiotics

-and extracting blood.

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-The famers

-receive advice and medication...

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-..and the scientists take the blood

-samples back to the laboratory...

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-..to be tested for ailments.

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-I'm starting to realize

-that life in the Thar is a miracle.

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-I'm surprised

-that anyone can live here.

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-Harsh landscapes, sandstorms,

-shifting sand dunes..

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-..sweltering seasons...

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-..and months of drought.

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-Ancient tradition refers to the Thar

-as Marusthali - the Land of Death.

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-But the name Marusthali

-stems from the word "marho"...

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-..which refers to the hollows

-in between the sand dunes.

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-When the rains come,

-in one seasonal flood...

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-..to the hollow runs the water.

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-The marho is like an oasis...

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-..sustaining pasture for animals to

-graze and enabling people to live.

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-From Jaisalmer

-I travel southwards to Pithorai...

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-..to explore

-rural life in the wilderness.

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-Life here

-revolves around simple daily needs.

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-Like that?

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-I'm helping with the water.

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-This is heavy

-and the women do this twice a day.

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-It's quite a trek

-back to the village.

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-It gives me a chance

-to consider all the daily chores.

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-The priority is fetching water.

-This is our biggest concern.

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-Then we have to think about animal

-fodder for the goats and sheep.

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-As long as it rains

-from time to time...

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-..everything will be alright.

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-The community is one large extended

-family living in six cottages.

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-Although dark inside, they shelter

-the family from the summer sun...

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-..and the cold winter nights.

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-The women divide

-the daily chores between them.

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-Morning calls for a cup of chai...

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-..a Masala tea with

-a little spice and black pepper.

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-The men must be served first.

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-They will lead the animals

-out of the village to graze.

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-It is the women's duty

-to look after the remaining animals.

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-Feeding the goats

-is equally as important...

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-..since it's these animals' milk

-that sustains the entire village.

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-Can I have a go?

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-Maybe milking a goat

-is easier than milking a camel?

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-One's working.

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-Maybe not.

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-It's going everywhere,

-and she's laughing.

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-We'll have milk tonight, guys,

-and perhaps a bit of cheese.

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-I'll be here till midnight

-at this rate.

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-The next job is the cooking.

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-Rajasthani cuisine is popular in

-Wales as it is all over the world.

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-The cooking methods...

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-..have been passed down

-through the females for generations.

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-They know how to prepare nutritious

-food in the middle of the desert.

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-Food like meat is avoided

-in the heat of the Thar...

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-..since it rots quickly.

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-Cooking with milk and ghee

-saves water...

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-..which is vital.

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-Every drop is precious.

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-That's why

-they wash the dishes in sand!

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-Housework and raising children.

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-But the women of Pithorai

-do much more besides.

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-It is they, not the men,

-who strive to sustain the village.

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-Today they need firewood.

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-I join the group

-who are going to collect it.

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-The chopped ends go on one side

-and the pointed bits the other side.

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-I think!

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-This one has two chopped bits.

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-No? Oh, OK.

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-Away from the village and out of

-the men's earshot, the women relax.

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-They remove their scarves...

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-..and joke about how the men would

-cope if the women went on strike.

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-They might do the work...

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-..but nothing would be clean.

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-They'd leave dirty dishes

-and wouldn't clean the house.

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-They don't know

-how to milk the cattle.

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-They might milk the goats

-and make tea for themselves.

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-They chop wood, carry wood...

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-..prepare food, tidy up...

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-..rear children...

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-..give birth to children.

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-These are some of the

-hardest working women I've ever met.

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-These women are also builders.

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-Today,

-in one of the village's houses...

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-..a new floor needs to be laid.

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-The desert's natural resources

-are the only tools available.

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-The first step is to dig for clay.

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-Then trample the mud

-with manure to make daub.

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-It's an old tradition yet

-recycling like this is contemporary.

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-The children also get involved.

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-It looks like

-she's enjoying the work.

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-It's probably nice and cold

-on her feet in the sun.

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-And now for the final stage.

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-The hands that milk, cook, carry and

-dig are strong and capable enough...

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-..to finish this task too.

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-There's no end to their abilities.

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-It's the end of the day...

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-..and Mender and I

-are in a pensive mood.

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-This is a village consisting

-of six houses and one large family.

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-The women

-are the mainstay of this community.

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-I've never seen anyone

-work as hard as these women.

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0:25:330:25:35

-The end of another day's travelling

-across the Thar Desert in India...

0:25:400:25:45

-..and I'm exhausted.

0:25:450:25:47

-At least tonight

-I'll be sleeping in a hotel.

0:25:480:25:51

-The Lallgarh Palace in Bikaner,

-former residence of the Maharajas.

0:25:510:25:55

-Peace, perfect peace.

0:25:560:25:58

-That was the plan, at least.

0:26:020:26:04

-I was hoping

-to get a good night's sleep...

0:26:100:26:13

-..before meeting the palace's owner.

0:26:130:26:16

-Is it going to be spicy?

0:26:160:26:18

-But nobody told me

-about the wedding celebration.

0:26:180:26:21

-Goodness me,

-it's like a circus here tonight.

0:26:300:26:33

-This isn't your usual wedding. It's

-more like a carnival or a festival.

0:26:330:26:38

-The bridegroom is sitting

-on top of a painted elephant.

0:26:380:26:42

-There are

-inflatable white elephants.

0:26:430:26:45

-There are balloons,

-popcorn and music.

0:26:460:26:48

-They dragged me into dance just now.

-They're so friendly.

0:26:490:26:52

-I feel

-as if I'm part of these families.

0:26:530:26:55

-One wedding is taking place here...

0:26:550:26:58

-..and there's another

-the other side of the palace.

0:26:580:27:02

-If you can't beat them, join them...

0:27:020:27:04

-..so that's exactly

-what I'm going to do!

0:27:040:27:07

-The following day and an appointment

-I can't afford to miss.

0:27:130:27:17

-The palace now functions as a hotel

-and is run by the royal family.

0:27:170:27:22

-I've been invited here...

0:27:220:27:24

-..to meet

-Princess Rajyashree Kumari...

0:27:240:27:27

-..daughter of

-the Maharaja Dr Karni Singh.

0:27:270:27:31

-She insists on speaking English.

0:27:310:27:34

-Essentially,

-the lives of my ancestors...

0:27:340:27:37

-..is inextricably linked

-with the deserts of the Thar.

0:27:380:27:42

-We are children of the Thar Desert.

0:27:420:27:44

-The early ancestors

-must've faced hardships...

0:27:440:27:47

-..because it was always

-a question of survival.

0:27:480:27:51

-But they're still here and the

-palace symbolizes their prosperity.

0:27:510:27:56

-The Maharajas made their fortune

-even in the heart of the desert.

0:27:570:28:01

-The revenue collectors

-used to go off on camel back...

0:28:040:28:09

-..with this big pot

-which they used to lug around...

0:28:090:28:13

-..fill it up with revenue

-that was due to the estate...

0:28:130:28:16

-..and this heavy lock...

0:28:160:28:19

-..was attached to the thing

-and brought safely back...

0:28:200:28:24

-..to the state coffers.

0:28:240:28:27

-My sympathies are with the camel who

-had to carry this load on his back.

0:28:270:28:32

-It can't have been very easy.

0:28:320:28:33

-It can't have been very easy.

-

-Very strong camels!

0:28:330:28:36

-For centuries, the Maharajas

-tried to tame the Thar...

0:28:410:28:44

-..and make it fertile.

0:28:450:28:47

-But there was one obvious setback -

-a lack of water.

0:28:470:28:51

-The beginning of the 20th century...

0:28:540:28:58

-..saw a period

-of famine and drought.

0:28:580:29:01

-Mortality rates were high.

0:29:010:29:04

-The princess's great-grandfather,

-Maharaja Ganga Singh...

0:29:080:29:12

-..decided to take action.

0:29:120:29:14

-He devised an ambitious plan

-to redirect the flow...

0:29:140:29:18

-..from the Sutlej River

-and build a canal across the desert.

0:29:180:29:23

-My great-grandfather was a firm

-believer that the land was fertile.

0:29:250:29:29

-All it lacked was the water.

0:29:290:29:31

-So he set about

-engineering the scheme...

0:29:320:29:35

-..of bringing a canal from

-the Sutlej River into Bikaner.

0:29:350:29:39

-Through his citizens' toil

-over a period of two years...

0:29:420:29:46

-..the king's dream was realized.

0:29:460:29:48

-In 1927, the 89-mile canal

-across the Thar Desert was opened.

0:29:530:29:57

-Her great-grandfather's achievement

-still inspires the princess...

0:29:590:30:04

-..although taming the desert

-shatters some of the romance.

0:30:050:30:08

-What I am sad to see...

0:30:080:30:10

-..is that the desert

-as we knew it is disappearing.

0:30:110:30:15

-When we were kids, we had

-virgin sand dunes around here.

0:30:150:30:19

-Now, because of the forestation,

-the plantation and water etc...

0:30:190:30:25

-..the actual virgin desert is

-becoming less and less accessible.

0:30:250:30:30

-The canal is enough to remember

-Maharaja Ganga Singh by...

0:30:340:30:38

-..but he is

-also party responsible...

0:30:380:30:42

-..for another wonder in this desert.

0:30:420:30:45

-The Karni Mata Temple.

0:30:490:30:51

-Every Maharaja

-seeks blessing from heaven...

0:30:590:31:03

-..and by building this temple, Ganga

-Singh honoured a powerful goddess.

0:31:030:31:08

-Karni Mata was a sage

-who lived some 700 years ago.

0:31:100:31:15

-To her followers,

-she is the incarnation of Durga...

0:31:150:31:19

-..the goddess of power and victory.

0:31:190:31:22

-But the Karni Mata Temple is

-renowned worldwide for one thing.

0:31:250:31:31

-Rats.

0:31:310:31:33

-20,000 rats live here.

0:31:360:31:39

-Many pilgrims

-come here to honour them.

0:31:390:31:43

-The crew expects me to join them.

0:31:430:31:46

-I have to remove my shoes

-before going inside the temple.

0:31:530:31:57

-I've just found out

-that the white rats are special.

0:31:570:32:00

-They're meant to bring you luck.

0:32:010:32:03

-It's lucky

-if one crawls over your foot.

0:32:030:32:06

-If you eat

-the same food as they've eaten...

0:32:060:32:10

-..that's even luckier.

0:32:100:32:12

-But I have something to confess.

-I'm afraid of rats.

0:32:120:32:16

-Legend has it that a child

-in Karni Mata's family died.

0:32:160:32:21

-She beseeched Yama, God of Death,

-to bring the child back to life.

0:32:210:32:25

-Yama refused,

-so Karni Mata used her own powers...

0:32:250:32:30

-..and bore the child again as a rat.

0:32:300:32:33

-From that moment on, all her family

-would follow the same path.

0:32:330:32:38

-These aren't rats

-but descendants of the goddess.

0:32:380:32:41

-I'm feeling quite nervous

-now I'm about to go inside.

0:32:420:32:45

-I have to remember

-that it's a religious thing...

0:32:460:32:49

-..and it's a blessing to come here.

0:32:490:32:52

-I hope my fear isn't

-going to be too much to deal with.

0:32:520:32:56

-Wish me luck.

0:32:560:32:58

-For the faithful, visiting the

-temple brings them a step closer...

0:33:020:33:06

-..to becoming

-at one with the universe.

0:33:060:33:09

-But that's

-the furthest thing from my mind.

0:33:100:33:13

-Some of them are dead.

0:33:140:33:17

-Some are dead, some are lame...

0:33:170:33:20

-..some are sleeping.

0:33:200:33:22

-Each one of them a rat.

0:33:220:33:24

-Two of the pilgrims

-take pity on me...

0:33:270:33:30

-..and share their sacred delicacies.

0:33:300:33:33

-Take in your mouth...

0:33:340:33:36

-And then talk?

0:33:370:33:39

-And then do that?

0:33:390:33:41

-Namaste.

0:33:410:33:43

-I've just met

-these two men sitting here.

0:33:430:33:46

-He's called...

0:33:460:33:48

-He's called...

-

-Vine.

0:33:480:33:50

-He's a devout follower

-and he's travelled from Jaipur.

0:33:500:33:54

-He comes here as often as possible.

0:33:540:33:57

-Amid is also a believer

-but he's afraid of rats.

0:33:570:34:00

-He comes from Bikaner

-and he's afraid of rats...

0:34:000:34:04

-..so I can relate to him!

0:34:040:34:07

-It means I can sit here

-and try to relax in the sun.

0:34:080:34:11

-Namaste.

0:34:110:34:13

-Shukriya.

0:34:130:34:15

-Suddenly there's a commotion.

0:34:160:34:19

-THEY SPEAK HINDI

0:34:200:34:22

-They've just seen a white one...

0:34:230:34:26

-..which is

-meant to bring them a lot of luck.

0:34:260:34:29

-According to some, the white rats

-are the sons of Karni Mata herself.

0:34:290:34:35

-One's crawled over my foot and

-I've seen a white one. Fantastic!

0:34:360:34:40

-While things are going my way,

-it's time to move on.

0:34:440:34:48

-Despite the rats,

-I've had a good day.

0:34:510:34:54

-I've overcome my fear.

0:34:540:34:56

-I'm just checking if that was

-a piece of paper on the floor!

0:34:570:35:01

-I've managed

-to overcome my fear of rats.

0:35:010:35:04

-My husband Matthew

-will be pleased about that.

0:35:040:35:07

-There's a camel here too, carrying

-stones back and forth the temple.

0:35:070:35:12

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0:35:160:35:17

-Subtitles

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-I'm on the final leg of my journey

-across the Thar Desert.

0:35:290:35:33

-I've already seen

-major wonders along the way.

0:35:340:35:37

-Surviving here

-is a feat in itself...

0:35:420:35:44

-..and I've seen how the desert

-teaches people to respect life.

0:35:440:35:49

-The ancient belief in India...

0:35:490:35:51

-..is that every creature

-belongs to the same family.

0:35:520:35:55

-It's a belief that's

-as old as the wilderness itself.

0:35:590:36:03

-It's just as pertinent today

-as we fear for our planet's future.

0:36:030:36:08

-My next stop is a village...

0:36:230:36:25

-..where respect for life

-has changed the course of nature...

0:36:250:36:30

-..and the fate

-of one creature in particular.

0:36:300:36:33

-This is

-the ancient city of Keechan...

0:36:400:36:43

-..home to the Jaian

-for more than five centuries.

0:36:430:36:46

-They're a religious sect

-famous for respecting all animals.

0:36:470:36:50

-40 years ago, one man and his family

-started feeding the wild birds...

0:36:570:37:03

-..one of which

-was the demoiselle crane.

0:37:030:37:07

-Each year

-the Jaian left more grain...

0:37:110:37:14

-..attracting more and more cranes.

0:37:140:37:17

-Most of the Jaian have left Keechan.

0:37:240:37:27

-They've gone to work in the cities.

0:37:270:37:29

-They send money back to pay for all

-this grain that feeds the cranes.

0:37:290:37:34

-But some of the villagers

-such as Gangaram continue the work.

0:37:340:37:40

-I've come to lend a hand.

0:37:400:37:42

-But I'm not sure he wants me here.

0:37:430:37:45

-He's not saying much. I'm going

-to carry on until he says something.

0:37:450:37:50

-HE SPEAKS HINDI

0:37:530:37:56

-I do this work

-in the name of Dharma.

0:37:560:37:58

-Doing divine deeds such as this

-brings me good karma.

0:37:590:38:03

-I suffer no illnesses.

0:38:040:38:07

-I'm in good health

-and my life is blessed.

0:38:070:38:10

-Gangaram

-is totally committed to his work...

0:38:170:38:20

-..and the outcome

-of his efforts is incredible.

0:38:200:38:24

-At the break of dawn,

-the cranes descend.

0:38:300:38:34

-The birds

-are slowly approaching the grain.

0:38:370:38:41

-They perched

-on the sand dunes behind us...

0:38:410:38:44

-..and gradually

-they're getting closer and closer.

0:38:440:38:48

-They say that eventually

-they simply walk in.

0:38:480:38:51

-One brave bird leads the way.

0:39:010:39:05

-10,000 birds...

0:39:080:39:10

-..soon follow him

-in one hungry flock.

0:39:110:39:15

-It's like a scene

-from a Hitchcock movie.

0:39:170:39:19

-Lucky I'm not afraid of birds!

0:39:210:39:24

-It's a natural phenomenon...

0:39:320:39:34

-..that you won't see

-anywhere else in the world.

0:39:340:39:37

-It's all thanks

-to the generosity of the Jaian.

0:39:430:39:46

-The way in which

-they preserve these strange birds...

0:39:510:39:55

-..is acknowledged worldwide.

0:39:550:39:57

-But there's something

-about the story which bothers me.

0:39:570:40:01

-This is fantastic to see...

0:40:080:40:10

-..but I can't help thinking

-that the situation is ironic.

0:40:100:40:14

-The feeding of the birds is reliant

-on the kindness of the Jaian.

0:40:140:40:18

-But bird numbers

-are rising 10-15% each year.

0:40:190:40:22

-There has been

-a mass influx of birds...

0:40:220:40:25

-..but an emigration of Jaian.

0:40:250:40:27

-Only a few of them remain.

0:40:270:40:29

-Is it right that

-they're paying for the birdseed...

0:40:290:40:33

-..while there are

-children nearby in need?

0:40:330:40:36

-I'm not sure.

0:40:360:40:38

-A refuge in the desert.

0:40:430:40:46

-If the birds deserve that, then

-surely the Thar's children do too?

0:40:460:40:51

-The following day,

-my final day looms.

0:40:580:41:01

-It's going to be a busy day.

0:41:010:41:03

-It's the best time of year for the

-Thar's farmers to make big money.

0:41:030:41:07

-This is

-the famous Nagaur Cattle Fair.

0:41:100:41:14

-It seems that everyone else in

-the province has arrived before me.

0:41:140:41:19

-Life can be very hard

-in the Thar Desert.

0:41:210:41:24

-It's important

-people come together to trade.

0:41:240:41:27

-Today there are more than

-70,000 different animals here.

0:41:270:41:31

-Camels, cattle and oxen.

0:41:310:41:34

-It's a bit like Carmarthen mart!

0:41:340:41:36

-As I wander around, I realize

-it's much more than a mart.

0:41:400:41:44

-It's probably closer

-to the Thar's Royal Show...

0:41:480:41:52

-..with elements

-of the Eisteddfod thrown in.

0:41:530:41:56

-All kinds of things are sold here,

-not just animals.

0:42:000:42:04

-Look at the size of these woks!

0:42:040:42:06

-They're big enough

-to feed the 5,000.

0:42:060:42:09

-Farmers

-from all over India come here.

0:42:140:42:17

-With money burning a hole in their

-pocket, there's plenty of choice.

0:42:180:42:23

-Having travelled from the Punjab...

0:42:280:42:30

-..Janghir Singh

-is an experienced trader.

0:42:310:42:34

-He claims

-his journey is never in vain.

0:42:340:42:37

-Trading here is a pleasure. We can

-socialize as well as make money.

0:42:400:42:45

-I can buy a small calf

-for 3,000 rupee and sell it...

0:42:460:42:49

-..for 10,000 in a year's time.

0:42:490:42:51

-When all the calves have grown,

-I'll come back to buy more.

0:42:520:42:56

-He's bound to receive

-a warm welcome when he gets home.

0:42:580:43:03

-Mr Singh here is leaving

-the Nagaur fair a very happy man.

0:43:030:43:07

-He has at least four wagons

-full of animals.

0:43:080:43:12

-He'll get home and the whole family

-will think he's a great hero.

0:43:120:43:17

-Well done, Mr Singh. Namaste.

0:43:170:43:20

-Yes.

0:43:240:43:26

-He leaves a satisfied customer.

0:43:290:43:31

-But there are those who still

-haven't made their fortune.

0:43:350:43:39

-For three days, this farmer has been

-trying to sell his special animals.

0:43:430:43:49

-His racing bulls.

0:43:490:43:51

-Hari Ram has travelled a great

-distance on foot to come here.

0:43:520:43:57

-He's walked

-for four hours with these bulls.

0:43:570:44:00

-They're very special,

-so why does he want to sell them?

0:44:000:44:04

-A shortage of water is to blame.

0:44:040:44:06

-Without water, crops fail to thrive,

-so there's little food for animals.

0:44:070:44:12

-Hari is worried about their future.

0:44:120:44:14

-He must get a good price so that he

-can return to his family with money.

0:44:150:44:19

-Suddenly

-there's a potential offer for Hari.

0:44:190:44:23

-A man wants to buy a beast to race

-in tandem with one of his own bulls.

0:44:230:44:28

-If both bulls

-manage to pull together.

0:44:280:44:31

-The test is over...

0:44:430:44:45

-..and the bartering begins.

0:44:460:44:48

-But unfortunately, the partnership

-doesn't please the buyer.

0:44:520:44:57

-Hari must find a way to sustain

-his bulls for another year...

0:44:570:45:01

-..despite the drought.

0:45:010:45:03

-It's the end of the day

-and the end of trading.

0:45:110:45:14

-Now it's show time.

0:45:140:45:17

-RHYTHMIC DRUMBEAT

0:45:180:45:20

-These are

-the dancers of the Kalbelia...

0:45:250:45:28

-..a native tribe

-known for catching snakes.

0:45:280:45:31

-There's a snake-like quality

-to their dancing too.

0:45:310:45:35

-There's no chance of me

-joining in their antics!

0:45:360:45:39

-A joyous occasion to mark

-my final night in the desert.

0:45:470:45:51

-The Thar's life and colour

-at its best.

0:45:520:45:55

-But there's

-one last surprise waiting for me.

0:46:010:46:04

-I'm nearing

-the end of my journey in the Thar...

0:46:050:46:08

-..and

-I'll never forget my time here.

0:46:090:46:12

-What better way to view the

-landscape than in a hot-air balloon?

0:46:120:46:17

-This journey has

-completely altered my perspective.

0:46:250:46:29

-It's made me understand

-the meaning of a desert.

0:46:290:46:32

-It's a vibrant place...

0:46:340:46:37

-..full of surprises.

0:46:370:46:40

-A canal through the sand dunes.

0:46:400:46:43

-Wild birds

-flocking to man's generosity.

0:46:430:46:47

-Reverence for rats.

0:46:480:46:51

-But as the population thrives,

-the pressure on the Thar mounts.

0:46:560:47:01

-Its treasures are at stake and

-its native animals are under threat.

0:47:060:47:11

-But even when life

-is at its hardest...

0:47:150:47:19

-..the Thar's heart beats loudly.

0:47:190:47:23

-We've just grounded the balloon

-and hundreds are here to greet us...

0:47:280:47:33

-..and find out what's going on.

0:47:330:47:35

-I've had a wonderful time in India.

0:47:360:47:38

-My experiences

-have been unforgettable.

0:47:380:47:41

-The people are full of love

-and passion for their homeland.

0:47:410:47:46

-They've succeeded

-in working the land...

0:47:460:47:50

-..and created a special

-livelihood for themselves.

0:47:500:47:54

-I'll be very sad to leave...

0:47:540:47:57

-..but I'm looking forward

-to sharing these photographs.

0:47:570:48:01

-S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.

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