Tony Singh's India A Cook Abroad


Tony Singh's India

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'Six cooks... SHE LAUGHS

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'..six countries,

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'six incredible journeys.'

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THEY CHEER

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Ah!

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'Stepping outside their comfort zones...'

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It's not for the faint-hearted for sure.

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'..our cooks will travel far and wide...'

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Route 7 all the way.

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'..to find some of the most exciting food on the planet.'

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If you're back in the UK,

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you've got Tandoori chicken, nothing like this.

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It's beautiful. This is the best food I've had in Egypt.

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It's pure, it's got heritage, it's got love in it, you know.

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'They'll go off the beaten track...'

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Crocodile! Crocodile sausages.

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'..meeting extraordinary people... THEY CHANT

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'..exploring ways of life unchanged for centuries.'

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No electric blenders in the jungle, have to do everything by hand.

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Take your life into your own hands, we're on the road now.

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'As they travel, they'll see how the language of food

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'transcends cultural differences.'

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I've never huffed on a cheese before.

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'And a world away from home.'

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This is why I love Australia.

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-There's no excuse for a bad pie in Australia.

-No.

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This is the beginning. Where do we end?

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'They'll learn lessons that could change the way we cook forever.'

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I've been cooking a barbecue wrongly all my life.

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Wow!

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'This time, Scottish chef Tony Singh heads to India

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'to explore the country of his ancestors.'

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And it feels fantastic.

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'He'll eat and cook his way across the region.'

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I'm not good at this cooking lark.

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'From the Punjabi pit stops,

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'to the tables of the maharajahs.

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'He'll find his way to the heart of his own family's history...'

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I can't even imagine what hardships they went through.

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'..and unleash his inner Bollywood star.'

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I'm Tony Singh.

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People see me as an Indian because this is the quintessential look

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of an Indian from the maharajah - turban, beard, lovely tan.

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But I was born in Scotland and I've lived here all my life.

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And now I want to see if I can fit in in India.

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I want to go and immerse myself in India

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and see if I can get away with it.

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I've been in the restaurant business for 22 years.

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My style of food is not curry.

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I'm a classically-trained chef.

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It's always been about local produce, Scottish produce,

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French technique.

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What I do know about Indian food comes from my mum

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and even she's a Glaswegian born and bred.

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I was chopping onions, and one of your cousin's sisters went,

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-"No, we don't chop them like that."

-No, that's right.

-You know?

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But I want to find out about more than just food,

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my mission is personal.

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Every time I speak to my parents, I'm finding out something new

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about how they came to be in Scotland.

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Everybody left, everything, all the belongings, the houses - everything.

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My knowledge of my family history now is about that.

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It's like my knowledge of Punjabi foods is like that

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because it's vast and this journey, this trip of discovery

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is going to be for both.

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My family story begins in 1947

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when the country was divided into Pakistan and India,

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the partition.

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I'm heading to the north-western state of Punjab,

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home of the Sikh religion and where my dad's family are from,

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and I'm starting my journey in Amritsar.

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I've only been to India twice in my life

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and those were fleeting visits...

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..so this is going to be a huge adventure

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and a chance to see if I can really fit in.

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HORNS HONK

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This is it, this is what I expected to hit me

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as soon as I walked out of the airport, and it feels fantastic.

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You take your life into your own hands, we're on the road now.

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I'm just so excited.

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I'm here to find out about authentic Punjabi food.

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To see the real thing, hear the stories,

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find out how it's changed, how the history, how the land,

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how the people have shaped the cooking, the techniques,

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the ingredients that I call my own.

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I'm in the holy city of Amritsar, the spiritual home of Sikhism.

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It's the eve of the most important religious festival of the year -

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Diwali, the Festival of Lights.

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But after two planes, a hairy rickshaw ride...

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-HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

-Thank you.

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..I'm cream crackered, and tomorrow I have an early start.

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It's Diwali, or Bandi Chhor Divas for Sikhs,

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and I'm getting ready for the Golden Temple.

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My worry right now apart from getting to temple, to the gurdwara,

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is what I'm going to wear, what shirt I'm going to wear

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because everybody's going to be dressed up,

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it's going to be fantastic.

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You get there, it's the beginning of the year,

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you know what I mean, it's that whole thing of...

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Yeah, it's a fresh start, it's good.

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As I join other pilgrims on their way to the golden temple

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the atmosphere is electric.

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The butterflies are starting. I'm so excited.

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Do you know what I mean, it's just that thing of anticipation,

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it's just...you can't explain it.

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Wow! My childhood heroes.

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HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

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The Nihang, Sikh warriors.

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And I've not met them, I've not seen them in person.

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HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

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It's surreal for me.

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You can just feel it coming up to you,

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there's just something about it.

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You can hear the madness behind you and the hubbub,

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and everybody's coming in, but they're taking their own time,

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they're just quietening down.

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They know they're going somewhere divine.

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As a Sikh on Diwali, this is the place,

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this is the centre of Sikhism.

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To come during Diwali, you're a lucky person

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and I'm a very lucky person to be here.

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The Golden Temple is a breathtaking sight.

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It has four entrances to show that all are welcome

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regardless of faith, gender or caste.

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The whole complex is sacred and pilgrims from all over the world

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come here to worship.

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Langar, or communal eating,

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is a cornerstone of the Sikh faith

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and a major part of the celebrations.

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The food is free and the operation is run by volunteers.

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One of the greatest honours for any Sikh is to do service,

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and most of the work is done in silence as a sign of respect.

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There may be an army of washer-uppers

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but that's because the kitchen

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will feed over half a million pilgrims today.

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To cope with the numbers, food is cooked in massive cauldrons.

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I've been told this one holds 400 kilos of lentil dhal.

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Bread, rather than rice, is the staple food of Punjab

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and here they can churn out over 20,000 wheat flour rotis an hour.

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That is one of the cornerstones of our faith.

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It's simple fare where everybody is treated equal.

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You sit on the floor and you don't care who's sitting next to you,

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it's always vegetarian,

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it's always something that anybody can afford.

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This is the most amazing thing about Punjabi food,

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it's so interlinked with the tenets of Sikhism.

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Kirt karo, vand chhako, naam japo,

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which is honest work, then share what you have,

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and then meditate on God.

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The Golden Temple, it's like the Vatican for Catholics.

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There's no other place like it, it's awe-inspiring.

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I've seen how the Golden Temple feeds the masses,

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but how do people do Diwali on a more modest scale at home?

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Well, I've been invited to celebrate this special occasion

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with a family who live on the other side of town.

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It's a real honour, so I'm not coming empty-handed.

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And in good tradition I'm taking sweets,

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and these ones I've made myself because it's very auspicious.

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THEY SPEAK IN PUNJABI

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Hi, happy Diwali. Happy Diwali.

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In the Punjabi tradition, pouring mustard oil to welcome guests

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is a ritual.

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Happy Diwali.

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And I am indeed welcomed by the whole extended family.

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I've just made that from Scotland,

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so it's shortbread and tablet like barfi.

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So, I'm here to learn something in the kitchen.

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Karandeep, what do you like?

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What's your favourite dish your mum cooks for you?

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Is that what we're making now?

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-Yes.

-That's kidney beans?

-Yeah, it's beans.

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Yeah, it's going to be with rice, which is quite interesting

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because in Punjab, they just eat lots of bread,

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so this rice dish is Karendeep's favourite,

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that's what I'm going to get shown.

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How often do you help in the kitchen?

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But now, you see that, it makes you more eligible to get married.

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TRANSLATION:

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THEY LAUGH

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-OK.

-OK.

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We're ready to go into the kitchen.

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We're making a red kidney bean curry

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and we're starting with a Punjabi cooking staple -

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mustard oil, and lots of it.

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Right, so, that's a fantastic tip I never knew,

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you can still smell the mustard oil.

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When it's at temperature, you won't smell it. OK.

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So that's going in, that's going to take 10-15 minutes to brown.

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Once the onions have softened, we add garlic and ginger paste.

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So I'm getting the green chillies.

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Going in to the magic mincer with the tomatoes.

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And there's only three chillies going in,

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and this gets away from the fact that everything should be hot

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and mad spicy - it's not, it's aromatic and tasty.

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SHE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

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Auntie said to me, "Is this how I do it back home?" I said I've got

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a wee boy that does it for me, or a commis, or an electric machine.

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THEY SPEAK IN PUNJABI

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No. Change now, you're going to be doing this, ah?

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And you'll find a spice box like this in every Punjabi kitchen

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with the flavour essentials for most dishes - garam masala,

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salt, turmeric and two types of chilli.

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OK.

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That's it ready.

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That's it there.

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And this is...

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So we've got kidney beans that have been soaked

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and cooked in a pressure cooker with two teaspoons of salt.

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Most Punjabis are vegetarian, and simple veggie dishes

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like this are the mainstay of family feasts.

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Outside, things are getting lively.

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But for now I'm taking a more sedate approach

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to the Festival of Light.

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Yes. Old, yeah.

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I'm missing home now.

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We do the same but it's with tealights.

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It's one of the things that the kids love doing,

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lighting them with me and putting them round the house,

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so I'm feeling a bit sad.

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Happy Diwali.

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I may be feeling homesick but that's soon cured by the warm welcome.

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Diwali here is like the Christmas holidays back in the UK,

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filled with family, friends, gifts...

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..and of course food.

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For Diwali we do the same, we have the fireworks,

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we have our diyas tied to the house.

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This is like being in my own home.

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As it's a special occasion, we're having a rice dish

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rather than the Punjabi staple - bread.

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Unlike Christmas, there isn't one traditional Diwali meal,

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so people eat whatever they like.

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The red kidney beans taste fantastic

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and even remind me of my mum's cooking,

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so simple but full of flavour.

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Now, though, it's play time.

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Stand back from the fireworks, eh?

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50 yards. I don't think so.

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And like at home, I'm only allowed the sparklers.

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The amazing thing today was that sense of family,

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sharing and eating, it's exactly what we do at home.

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Fireworks maybe not to that scale, but sitting down

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with your family, I mean, it's so special.

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And the flavours, the flavours I've been having at home,

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it's true Punjabi flavours and they're the same here.

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I think that's one of the things that's made me connect

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and feel at home.

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After last night's celebrations, I can't believe I'm hungry again.

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But it's not surprising, everywhere I look there's delicious food.

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Just seen an elephant,

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somebody nearly getting squished at the roundabout

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and this is before breakfast, but that's what I'm here for.

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I'm on Lawrence Road, I'm starving

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and I want to find out what we have for breakfast in Punjab,

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and I've been told there's a cracking place

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just round the corner.

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See that, look at that.

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So that's a dough but he's stuffing it with lentils.

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He's making puri.

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It's a deep-fried bread.

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-HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

-Vegetable...

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Clarified butter.

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Wow, look at that.

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HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

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This is a thing that you have for breakfast, eh?

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Oh, OK, thank you.

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Best place to get puri chana is Khanna St, just there,

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so that's where we're off to.

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No need for a menu here, there's only one thing on offer.

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And this is what it's about,

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puri chole, this is what they have for breakfast.

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That's what I call a puri. Thank you.

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That's a aloo sabji - potatoes,

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and that's the chole - that's the chickpeas, sliced onions and pickle.

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That's feather light, should feel...

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It's just...

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That's lovely.

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The chickpeas melt in your mouth.

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Wow. So this is it, bread.

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Most people think Indian food's rice.

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North of India, the bread basket of India.

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In Punjab we have all these different breads -

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puri, roti, roomali, roti and naan.

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And you eat it with your fingers.

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This is your implement, there's no forks or knives,

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this is what it's all about.

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You only pay 35 pence per puri,

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the rest is all you can eat Punjabi style,

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and the refills keep on coming.

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You either have to eat quick and get out

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or I'm going to have to be rude and say, "Stop."

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This is wonderful.

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Oh, that's me.

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Just had my first Punjabi breakfast.

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You can still feel the clarified butter dripping down your throat,

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this is food to do things on not sit around an office.

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Just as well, I have a packed day ahead.

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First, I'm off to look for my ancestral home,

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the house that belonged to my great-grandfather.

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In 1947, after over a century of colonial rule, Britain gave

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India independence and split Punjab into two - India and Pakistan.

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The area around the newly-created border was volatile

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and Amritsar became a dangerous and violent place to live.

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My great-grandparents joined the millions forced to flee to the

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safety of Delhi, and I want to find the house they left behind.

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I know it's in Sultanwind Gate, which is that way,

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but I need to get my skates on and get along there

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before I get mashed up.

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Sultanwind Gate, right, so we're in the right area,

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I've got the name of the street, Fatawaligali.

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HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

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Shukria.

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Armed with some clues, I want to see how my family used to live...

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..if I can survive long enough to find the house.

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That's mental. It's OK, man, nothing,

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just a brown man crossing the street. That's mad.

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But show no fear, eh, done it.

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Right, Sultanwind Gate.

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No street names, so I'm a bit stuck.

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It's time to put my best Scottish-Punjabi to the test.

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Fatawaligali.

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SHE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

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A foundry inside a built-up area.

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Thank you.

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It's 70 years ago, so they don't know where it is

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but I've been asked in for tea, that's Punjabi hospitality.

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THEY SPEAK IN PUNJABI

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I can't bel... Well, this is it, this is where it started from.

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I'm a bit speechless, actually, because this is the beginning,

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this is my great-grandad's house.

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HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

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After some explaining, this lovely family

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are letting this crazy Scot into their home.

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My great-grandad was here, and during partition they moved out.

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They got pushed down to Delhi, and then my grandad

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went to Scotland, so I was born and raised in Scotland.

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It's just...that feeling, you know, it's...

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Don't know. It's quite... tingle in the tummy.

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You can see the changes but they're not huge, you know what I mean?

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I think probably this is, in its essence, the same.

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My gran used to say they used to go across the rooftops,

0:20:470:20:49

so obviously this has been built on.

0:20:490:20:51

But seeing it first-hand and being told how it was so different,

0:20:510:20:54

and even though it's changed a bit,

0:20:540:20:56

you can still see them sitting out here.

0:20:560:20:58

But what an upheaval for partition, when India got divided into

0:20:590:21:02

India and Pakistan, to leave everything behind

0:21:020:21:05

and get pushed down.

0:21:050:21:06

All the refugees, it was one of the biggest movements of people ever.

0:21:060:21:10

But most people thought they were coming back.

0:21:100:21:12

My great-grandad never came back. They never came back to the house.

0:21:120:21:15

CAT MEOWS

0:21:150:21:16

One of the things that always goes through your head -

0:21:170:21:20

if the partition never happened,

0:21:200:21:22

this is where I would have been brought up, most likely.

0:21:220:21:24

Yeah, not a bad life.

0:21:260:21:27

I'm grateful to this family for giving me a glimpse of

0:21:290:21:32

how my great-grandparents used to live.

0:21:320:21:34

HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

0:21:340:21:36

Time for a memento.

0:21:360:21:37

HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

0:21:390:21:41

Got my picture taken, quite a few of them actually.

0:21:410:21:44

Some with my head, some without my head, but I'm just chuffed.

0:21:440:21:47

So I'm off now on another adventure.

0:21:470:21:49

The sun might go down but the eating and the madness never stops.

0:21:540:21:59

You don't see that every day, eh?

0:21:590:22:01

Ha! Elephant, you'd think they'd have lights on it, though.

0:22:010:22:04

Six, half six, that's ten hours till my breakfast.

0:22:090:22:12

I didn't have lunch, but that's the essence of Punjabi food

0:22:120:22:15

is to keep you going, but now I'm hungry.

0:22:150:22:17

I'm meeting a local food blogger - Jaideep.

0:22:190:22:22

He's promised to take me on a food crawl of Amritsar

0:22:230:22:26

and introduce me to a local custom called car-o-bar.

0:22:260:22:30

I'm intrigued.

0:22:300:22:31

Fantastic, thanks for talking to me online about everything.

0:22:310:22:34

-Not a problem, not a problem.

-How do you... Why are you online?

0:22:340:22:37

I was amazed I found your blog and everything.

0:22:370:22:39

What's your passion about?

0:22:390:22:40

Yeah.>

0:22:420:22:43

Right.

0:22:460:22:47

Yeah, and this is the thing, car-o-bar.

0:22:510:22:53

Shown, OK. Show me.

0:22:540:22:56

-Right. OK.

-Let's go.

0:22:570:22:59

They might hold on to old traditions here

0:23:050:23:08

but I think I'm about to discover their enthusiasm

0:23:080:23:11

for new ones too.

0:23:110:23:12

Right.

0:23:140:23:16

Yes.

0:23:160:23:17

THEY LAUGH

0:23:190:23:21

-Car-o-bar.

-Car-o-bar.

0:23:210:23:23

And what's this?

0:23:230:23:24

Why rum? Is that because of the sugar cane?

0:23:270:23:29

There you go, rite of passage anywhere in the world, cheap drink.

0:23:310:23:35

Cheap drink. Start pouring.

0:23:350:23:36

Crack it open, OK.

0:23:360:23:37

So, who's the unlucky person that drives the car-o-bar?

0:23:390:23:42

So what are you on, soda?

0:23:430:23:45

-Go for it.

-Go for it.

0:23:470:23:48

And then?

0:23:520:23:53

Right. OK.

0:23:550:23:57

OK, repeat till you fall over.

0:24:010:24:03

There you go.

0:24:030:24:04

They might not serve alcohol at these stalls

0:24:060:24:08

but the food is meant to be out of this world.

0:24:080:24:11

The go-to, the place?

0:24:170:24:18

The go-to, the place.

0:24:180:24:19

You see, in Edinburgh, you'd ask for one fish and chips, OK.

0:24:190:24:23

-By weight?

-By weight.

-What are we having?

0:24:230:24:25

I like this.

0:24:270:24:28

Punjab means "land of five rivers"

0:24:280:24:32

and this is a freshwater catfish.

0:24:320:24:34

It's a bit like cod.

0:24:340:24:36

-And with a bit of salad on the side.

-White radish.

0:24:360:24:38

-And what's in the chutney?

-Chutney is a mint chutney.

0:24:380:24:41

You can taste the fish, you've got a little bit of heat.

0:24:440:24:47

This is fabulous.

0:24:470:24:49

Just going place to place is like tapas, OK, but this is not

0:24:490:24:52

-cos you're drinking, you're taking your own drink.

-Yeah.

0:24:520:24:55

You're not going to the bar for the nibbles,

0:24:550:24:57

you're taking your bar to the nibbles.

0:24:570:24:59

-Right.

-But who does it?

0:24:590:25:00

-So it's not about cost?

-No, it's not about cost.

0:25:030:25:05

Right.

0:25:110:25:12

Yes.

0:25:180:25:19

So you have to move?

0:25:250:25:26

-You have to move.

-I'm ready.

-You're ready.

0:25:260:25:28

-So the fish is done.

-Fish is done. Now...

0:25:300:25:34

No, not those sorts of birds!

0:25:370:25:40

Tandoori chicken is a Punjabi speciality,

0:25:400:25:43

skewered and cooked in a traditional, wood-fired oven -

0:25:430:25:46

the tandoor.

0:25:460:25:47

And Jaideep is taking me to THE place to try it.

0:25:500:25:53

Drive-through.

0:26:000:26:02

Where from?

0:26:020:26:04

My mouth's watering already.

0:26:040:26:05

Thank you.

0:26:090:26:10

Wow.

0:26:140:26:15

Green mint chutney.

0:26:150:26:17

It's so tender and so succulent.

0:26:220:26:25

If you're back in the UK, most restaurants...

0:26:260:26:29

You've got tandoori chicken, nothing like this.

0:26:290:26:31

-OK.

-Gas ovens.

-All right.

0:26:310:26:34

You've just lost that flavour.

0:26:340:26:35

So is this why they still use wood for centuries

0:26:350:26:37

and that's why they stick to it?

0:26:370:26:39

And basically you can taste it.

0:26:390:26:40

-You can, and that's the amazing thing.

-That's the beauty.

0:26:400:26:43

I heard a story about the metal rods used to be swords.

0:26:430:26:46

Right.

0:26:530:26:54

Right.

0:26:560:26:59

That's how good it is, that's lasted through the ages.

0:26:590:27:01

Amazing. Right.

0:27:070:27:08

After we've had this, to finish off car-o-bar, what would you do?

0:27:080:27:12

Punjabi cuisine uses a lot of dairy, so what better way to finish the

0:27:240:27:28

night than with this solid, buttery cream with fruit

0:27:280:27:33

made from super-rich buffalo milk?

0:27:330:27:36

Wow.

0:27:360:27:37

52% fat and it tastes fantastic.

0:27:370:27:40

Car-o-bar, what an idea, eh? What a concept!

0:27:410:27:44

I love it, going out. Shame for the designated driver

0:27:440:27:47

but the bonus is the food of one person doing one thing

0:27:470:27:51

just right and then you go to the next,

0:27:510:27:53

I think it's a fantastic idea.

0:27:530:27:54

I think I'm finally getting the hang of crossing these roads

0:28:060:28:10

but there's no way this Scot is getting behind the wheel.

0:28:100:28:14

So I've hired a driver, who's taking me on the next part of my adventure.

0:28:170:28:21

I'm travelling on the Grand Trunk, or GT Road, down to Delhi,

0:28:250:28:31

the same 300-mile journey that millions of Sikhs,

0:28:310:28:34

including my own family, were forced to make as refugees.

0:28:340:28:38

After India declared independence,

0:28:390:28:42

the tension between different religions was high.

0:28:420:28:45

In Punjab, Sikhs and Muslims clashed

0:28:460:28:49

as they both scrambled to get to the right side of the border

0:28:490:28:53

and find safe haven.

0:28:530:28:55

A million people died from violence or starvation

0:28:550:28:59

trying to reach their destinations.

0:28:590:29:01

My first stop en-route to Delhi is an hour outside Amritsar.

0:29:100:29:14

I'm looking for a spot

0:29:140:29:15

where a holy order of Sikh soldiers have set up camp.

0:29:150:29:19

I was raised on stories about these legendary,

0:29:190:29:22

nomadic warriors

0:29:220:29:23

whose way of life hasn't changed for over 300 years.

0:29:230:29:27

This is my chance to meet the Nihang,

0:29:270:29:30

the superheroes of the Sikh world.

0:29:300:29:32

Getting to meet them hasn't been easy,

0:29:330:29:36

but, thanks to Dalbir, who's worked with them for years, here I am.

0:29:360:29:40

I'm just in awe because as I've been growing up,

0:29:430:29:47

my grandad on my mum's side used to tell me about the Nihang,

0:29:470:29:52

the Sikh soldiers, the protectors of the faith, but everybody's faith.

0:29:520:29:55

These guys went about and looked after everybody and they're here.

0:29:550:29:59

Their martial art, gatka, has been around for thousands of years

0:30:030:30:07

but these swords aren't just for show.

0:30:070:30:09

Why would spiritual people and peace-loving people do gatka?

0:30:120:30:19

The Nihang were rarely beaten on the battlefield, even when outnumbered.

0:30:280:30:33

So, where do they get their strength?

0:30:330:30:35

The Nihang, they travel, they're nomadic in the sense of

0:30:360:30:39

they go from place to place.

0:30:390:30:41

And me being a chef, I always go back. How did they eat?

0:30:410:30:46

Thank you.

0:30:480:30:49

They have set up camp in a local gurdwara,

0:30:520:30:55

but before I see their operation, I am being taken to the

0:30:550:30:58

head of the order to get his blessing.

0:30:580:31:00

THEY SPEAK IN PUNJABI

0:31:040:31:07

-Babaji was saying?

-Babaji said...

0:31:070:31:10

-Excellent.

-You're welcome.

0:31:180:31:20

Open kitchens with strict rules are set up each time they move camp.

0:31:210:31:26

-Iron?

-Iron bowls.

-Why, why?

0:31:300:31:33

They always cover their mouths.

0:31:380:31:39

Such respect is paid to the food

0:31:390:31:41

that they put a piece of cloth over their mouth.

0:31:410:31:44

So it's an honour to become a vaviki, a chef for the Nihang

0:31:480:31:52

because they only cook for themselves.

0:31:520:31:54

They can't even have packaged drinks,

0:31:540:31:56

anything outside.

0:31:560:31:57

And other vaviki, other chefs, Nihang chefs cook for them,

0:31:570:32:00

but it's such an honour, I never knew this.

0:32:000:32:02

Close.

0:32:020:32:04

I'm not allowed into the kitchen,

0:32:040:32:06

I'm not allowed to touch anything

0:32:060:32:08

because I'm not a vaviki chef, I'm not a Nihang chef.

0:32:080:32:11

Everything done by hand until all the pilgrims are fed.

0:32:220:32:26

But these villagers are here for more than a free lunch,

0:32:310:32:35

they've come to be close to their heroes, and many

0:32:350:32:38

will donate food and money to keep the Nihang traditions alive.

0:32:380:32:42

These days, their role may be mainly ceremonial,

0:32:500:32:53

but they're keeping alive a way of life unchanged

0:32:530:32:56

for hundreds of years.

0:32:560:32:57

-Every three days.

-Every three days.

0:33:060:33:08

How are they received? How do people welcome them?

0:33:080:33:10

THEY CHANT IN PUNJABI

0:33:280:33:33

As a child, you had in your mind, you know, I've seen them in books,

0:33:330:33:37

I've seen them in videos, read about them,

0:33:370:33:40

but then meeting them...

0:33:400:33:41

Amazing, amazing.

0:33:420:33:44

Is there a place for them in this world?

0:33:470:33:49

Yes. It's not vanished in 300 years, I don't think it'll vanish.

0:33:490:33:52

I think they're strong enough to look after themselves.

0:33:520:33:55

CHEERING

0:33:550:33:57

Back on the Grand Trunk Road,

0:34:010:34:02

I'm glad I was blessed by the Nihang...

0:34:020:34:05

..to protect me from the other drivers.

0:34:060:34:08

VEHICLE HORNS BEEP

0:34:080:34:13

See, that's it, I would never drive on this road.

0:34:130:34:15

It's too dangerous, that's why I've got you.

0:34:150:34:17

14 people an hour die on the roads?!

0:34:210:34:24

One hour, yeah.

0:34:240:34:26

That's unbelievable.

0:34:260:34:27

This is very bad.

0:34:270:34:28

No, I would never let...

0:34:290:34:31

You concentrate driving and I'll kid on

0:34:310:34:33

I'm not bricking myself.

0:34:330:34:34

We're heading deep into the heart of rural Punjab, and I can see this is

0:34:380:34:43

proper farming country.

0:34:430:34:45

This place is said to have some of the

0:34:450:34:47

most fertile land on the planet.

0:34:470:34:50

I've been looking forward

0:34:500:34:51

to this detour off the GT Road.

0:34:510:34:54

It couldn't be more of a contrast to where I've been.

0:34:540:34:57

Listen...

0:34:590:35:00

Tractors, birds, lush greenness.

0:35:010:35:06

This is the Punjab of my childhood memories,

0:35:060:35:09

the movies and everything, fields of sugar cane, I just wanted to grab

0:35:090:35:12

a bit and chew it and walk through the fields but it's not ready.

0:35:120:35:15

Such a change from Amritsar.

0:35:150:35:18

And the drive this morning, you could just see it,

0:35:180:35:20

all the green, the lushness.

0:35:200:35:22

This is amazing, this is why Punjab,

0:35:220:35:25

land of five rivers, is a fertile ground.

0:35:250:35:28

It's always been prized as a bread basket.

0:35:280:35:31

Punjabis have a reputation for being skilled and hard-working...

0:35:320:35:36

..and countries from Italy to Russia actually advertise

0:35:370:35:41

for Punjabi farmers.

0:35:410:35:42

Wheat and other grains grow here

0:35:430:35:45

in abundance and, along with dairy products, they form the

0:35:450:35:48

cornerstone of the Punjabi diet.

0:35:480:35:51

We've been on the road for hours now and yes, I'm getting hungry.

0:36:040:36:09

It's a perfect opportunity to see how the Punjabis

0:36:090:36:12

do a motorway pit stop.

0:36:120:36:14

Oh.

0:36:140:36:15

Ah.

0:36:180:36:19

Oh, my back.

0:36:210:36:23

We've just got off the GT Road at a traditional dhaba, Ludhiana.

0:36:250:36:28

A dhaba is a motorway caff, service station.

0:36:280:36:31

Nothing like this is in the UK, they've been here forever.

0:36:310:36:35

Simple food, cooked freshly.

0:36:350:36:37

This is wood fire, this is traditional.

0:36:380:36:41

-Yeah, traditional fire.

-Wood.

0:36:410:36:43

Can I have a look round? Is it possible?

0:36:430:36:45

Yeah, why not? Come, come, come. Yeah, yeah.

0:36:450:36:48

Wow.

0:36:500:36:51

So I've been in India a few days and this is the first time

0:36:510:36:54

I've got up close and personal to a tandoor in Punjab and it's...

0:36:540:36:57

The heat's 360 degrees heat, it's concave and

0:36:590:37:02

you have to feel the heat coming off that, it's taking seconds to cook.

0:37:020:37:05

And that was one of the great things with tandoor,

0:37:050:37:07

little fuel, all the heat was concentrated and the

0:37:070:37:10

flavour you get is unbelievable.

0:37:100:37:12

This is quintessential Punjabi at heart,

0:37:120:37:15

this is the thing, the tandoori chickens, the naans, the breads

0:37:150:37:19

and everything comes out of this oven.

0:37:190:37:20

This is what people know of Punjabi food outside around the world.

0:37:200:37:24

This is it.

0:37:300:37:31

Now, what to eat.

0:37:310:37:32

Well, this is what I've been waiting for.

0:37:320:37:36

In dhabas like this, they cook simple, seasonal food.

0:37:360:37:39

The traditional dish of Punjab is only available this

0:37:410:37:44

time of year, so I've struck it lucky.

0:37:440:37:46

Green mustard-top curry,

0:37:480:37:50

a Punjabi-sized portion of white buffalo butter

0:37:500:37:54

and corn rotis.

0:37:540:37:55

This is hearty farming food

0:37:550:37:58

that you won't find on the menu outside of Punjab.

0:37:580:38:00

This is Punjab - the culture, the lifestyle, everything in a mouthful.

0:38:020:38:07

-It is lovely.

-Great food.

0:38:100:38:14

Another local favourite is buffalo milk,

0:38:140:38:17

and this lassi is as fresh as you can get.

0:38:170:38:20

They have real live buffalos out back, how mad is that?!

0:38:200:38:24

-Cheers.

-Cheers.

0:38:240:38:25

-Lassi nice?

-Lassi's very nice.

0:38:270:38:29

It's sharp and it's creamy, though.

0:38:290:38:31

If we had these kind of pit stops on the M1, eh, be a much better place.

0:38:330:38:38

This is fantastic.

0:38:380:38:40

Only one more stop tonight and that's to sleep!

0:38:430:38:47

Well, that's the plan.

0:38:470:38:49

Me and Gurnam have rocked up in the middle of rural Punjab

0:38:520:38:56

to one of these wedding venues that are sprouting up all over

0:38:560:38:59

the place for a quiet rest for the rest of our journey and...

0:38:590:39:04

FAINT MUSIC

0:39:040:39:05

Yes, you can hear it, Bungarra music, there's a wedding.

0:39:050:39:08

-HE SIGHS

-Tired.

0:39:100:39:12

In my search for authentic Punjabi cooking,

0:39:210:39:24

I've tried the food of pilgrims, travellers and families,

0:39:240:39:27

but I've yet to find the high end of Britain's

0:39:270:39:29

most popular cuisine until now.

0:39:290:39:32

I have a date with royalty!

0:39:320:39:35

The maharajahs once ruled the stately kingdoms across India.

0:39:380:39:42

And it took some doing but I'm off to see how the other half eat.

0:39:450:39:48

I'm meeting a member of the Patiala royal family

0:39:510:39:54

at one of their modest country retreats.

0:39:540:39:57

And they've given me a changing room that's,

0:39:580:40:00

ooh, just a tad smaller than my house.

0:40:000:40:03

So we've hit the mother lode,

0:40:080:40:09

we're here to taste the ultimate in Punjabi food,

0:40:090:40:13

rich, decadent food from the maharajas,

0:40:130:40:15

and I'm here with a member of the Patiala royal family.

0:40:150:40:18

But what do you wear when you go and see a maharaja?

0:40:180:40:21

Look at that.

0:40:230:40:24

Fingers crossed I've not put too much poundage on.

0:40:240:40:27

-Hold on.

-HE INHALES

0:40:290:40:31

Oh, yeah.

0:40:340:40:35

I thought I'd be nervous but I'm not, he's a food lover.

0:40:350:40:37

We all speak the same language, "Mmm, aah, lovely!"

0:40:370:40:41

You know what I mean, that'll be great.

0:40:410:40:42

I'm nervous cooking with him, though. Talking food's one thing,

0:40:420:40:45

but cooking with him...

0:40:450:40:46

The royal secretary is waiting to take me to the raja saab,

0:40:480:40:51

Randhir Singh.

0:40:510:40:52

Thank you very much.

0:40:530:40:54

His grandfather, the maharaja Bhupinder Singh,

0:40:570:41:00

was famous for his extravagant feasts and his love of cooking,

0:41:000:41:04

both traditions that have been passed down through the generations.

0:41:040:41:07

Oh, I might have overdone it with the jacket.

0:41:090:41:12

I'm very honoured that you're going to show me...

0:41:150:41:17

you're going to cook with me. I was very surprised.

0:41:170:41:19

No, no, I'll cook for you.

0:41:190:41:21

We cook regularly whenever the members of the family are together.

0:41:210:41:24

We cook and, in fact, everyone cooks in the evening.

0:41:240:41:28

It's much better we are spending time than talking business

0:41:280:41:31

or talking politics, much nicer.

0:41:310:41:32

So who takes control?

0:41:320:41:34

Because obviously you still need one chef in a kitchen.

0:41:340:41:36

-No, no, no, everyone cooks their own dish.

-Right.

0:41:360:41:39

You have these coal fires lit separately

0:41:390:41:42

and everyone has their own recipe, so it's laid out.

0:41:420:41:45

And somebody makes a rice, somebody makes some mutton,

0:41:450:41:48

somebody's cooking a chicken, a dhal or a vegetable.

0:41:480:41:51

So there's no conflict there, everybody just does their speciality?

0:41:510:41:54

No, no, no. No conflict.

0:41:540:41:55

-The recipes come from the family.

-OK.

0:41:550:41:57

I'm not sure what to expect

0:42:000:42:02

and I still feel a bit nervous in such illustrious company.

0:42:020:42:05

But, phew, it turns out the royals

0:42:060:42:09

cook on the same traditional stoves that I've seen all over Punjab.

0:42:090:42:13

But they do have the bonus of some man servants to lend a hand.

0:42:140:42:18

This is what I call a kitchen, and the views, and it's beautiful,

0:42:180:42:23

but a bit hot for me I think.

0:42:230:42:25

-Bit hot.

-Yeah!

0:42:250:42:27

I am your commis chef. If you tell me what to do, I shall...

0:42:270:42:30

Yes, certainly.

0:42:300:42:31

We're cooking a rich chicken and apricot dish

0:42:310:42:33

that's a favourite in the Patiala palace.

0:42:330:42:36

No surprise at the first ingredient - ghee.

0:42:380:42:42

This royal household gets through 70 kilos of ghee a month

0:42:420:42:46

compared with most families who use around two.

0:42:460:42:48

We add black peppercorns, cloves...

0:42:500:42:53

-And we use the bigger cardamom.

-..and onions.

0:42:540:42:57

So just gently frying it with the spices to get that

0:42:580:43:02

golden brown, to add flavour to the dish at each step.

0:43:020:43:05

This is garlic paste and ginger paste.

0:43:050:43:07

Garlic and ginger paste, OK.

0:43:070:43:10

Even the royals have the basic Punjabi spice box.

0:43:100:43:13

OK, the chillies.

0:43:130:43:14

And this is red chilli colour.

0:43:160:43:18

-Just ground coriander.

-Yeah.

0:43:180:43:20

The simple use of spices to bring out the best in the flavour,

0:43:200:43:23

and that's what they have to do.

0:43:230:43:24

And they do flavour it. For every dish you have a different spice.

0:43:240:43:27

All the men helping in doing their dishes,

0:43:300:43:32

was there ever competitions who makes the same...the best dish?

0:43:320:43:36

-I don't think so.

-No.

0:43:360:43:37

I won't be getting any royal gossip then, but I will be getting

0:43:370:43:40

some royal tips.

0:43:400:43:42

You see, when the bubbles become clear

0:43:420:43:45

-you know that the masala has been cooked.

-OK.

0:43:450:43:48

After all of the vegetarian dishes I've tried,

0:43:480:43:51

this already feels more extravagant.

0:43:510:43:54

And if you're going to eat meat in Punjab, it's usually chicken.

0:43:540:43:58

The smell is just phenomenal.

0:43:590:44:02

The maharajas' recipes have been influenced by their links

0:44:040:44:07

with neighbouring royal courts.

0:44:070:44:09

Once the chicken has simmered

0:44:100:44:12

we add the dried apricots, which give it a sweet taste

0:44:120:44:15

like the curries of Afghanistan to the north.

0:44:150:44:18

Because the apricots have been soaked,

0:44:180:44:20

they just need a couple of minutes to cook through

0:44:200:44:22

-and all the flavours will marry together and that's it.

-That's it.

0:44:220:44:25

The Patiala royals were famous for their lavish hospitality.

0:44:260:44:29

And in the 1930s, at the height of their power and wealth,

0:44:300:44:34

this royal household would feed up to 3,500 people a day.

0:44:340:44:38

Today's menu includes two types of dhal,

0:44:400:44:44

a rich marinated lamb and yoghurt, a creamy chicken pilau dish,

0:44:440:44:49

spicy cauliflower, and our sweet chicken and apricots.

0:44:490:44:53

The apricots and the chicken...

0:45:010:45:02

It's that surprise of sharp sweetness.

0:45:030:45:07

Does it remind you of your childhood,

0:45:070:45:08

of the taste that you used to have when you used to get together?

0:45:080:45:12

The food is the same, the dishes were many more.

0:45:120:45:15

-Many more?

-Many more dishes.

0:45:150:45:16

They came in a big silver salver and there were these bowls like this

0:45:160:45:20

and they had 51 dishes including the rices,

0:45:200:45:23

at least two pilaus, so, a lot of food was made then.

0:45:230:45:26

And your grandfather was a character?

0:45:260:45:29

-He had 42 Rolls-Royces in the garage at one time.

-42?!

0:45:290:45:33

He was very fond of dogs as well.

0:45:330:45:35

We had a kennels in Patiala which had 1,000 dogs in them.

0:45:350:45:38

1,000 dogs?

0:45:380:45:40

He had a Rolls-Royce for his hunting,

0:45:400:45:42

so he used to carry his dogs in that Rolls-Royce at the back.

0:45:420:45:45

Get some more, you've got...

0:45:450:45:46

No, honestly, this is fabulous.

0:45:460:45:48

-This is light, you won't have to worry about...

-No, no, no.

0:45:480:45:51

Oh, go on, then.

0:45:520:45:53

When in Rome.

0:45:550:45:57

These days, many maharajas have swapped their palaces for politics

0:45:570:46:01

and business, but they still know how to put on a cracking spread,

0:46:010:46:05

and I'm glad the recipes have survived.

0:46:050:46:07

The dishes have been wonderful.

0:46:090:46:11

Very subtle, delicately flavoured, you can taste all the ingredients.

0:46:110:46:15

It was wonderful.

0:46:150:46:16

-Raja Saab, thank you very much.

-Happy that you enjoyed it.

0:46:170:46:20

-OK, thank you. Bye.

-Bye.

0:46:200:46:21

Delhi.

0:46:240:46:25

With a full belly and a slightly tighter jacket...

0:46:270:46:30

..the rich food of the maharajas has definitely lived up

0:46:320:46:35

to my expectation.

0:46:350:46:36

But back on the Grand Trunk Road

0:46:380:46:40

I'm ready for the last leg of the journey.

0:46:400:46:42

We're in Delhi, baby!

0:46:440:46:46

The capital of India, population 22 million.

0:46:470:46:50

As I enter the outskirts of the city, I can't help

0:46:520:46:55

but notice health and fitness clubs everywhere.

0:46:550:46:58

A rich diet and changing lifestyles have made India

0:46:580:47:01

the type-two diabetes capital of the world.

0:47:010:47:04

Maybe it's a sign.

0:47:050:47:07

Wish me luck.

0:47:100:47:11

So, after a week of indulging myself

0:47:130:47:15

and especially with the maharaja, that fantastic food,

0:47:150:47:18

the jacket's feeling a bit tight, eh, so I thought,

0:47:180:47:20

the latest craze, Bolly Sweat.

0:47:200:47:23

Bit of fitness, a bit of dance.

0:47:230:47:24

I'm watching them and I'm getting a bit worried.

0:47:260:47:28

It's more than my screwing the light bulbs, big present,

0:47:280:47:30

small present, fish, all that.

0:47:300:47:32

It's a bit technical.

0:47:320:47:34

-How are you?

-I'm Anant, I'm the director of Delhi Dance Academy.

0:47:350:47:38

Excellent. I'm...I'm a bit worried in case you kill me dancing.

0:47:380:47:42

Yeah, I mean, just not worry, it's a really chilled out

0:47:420:47:45

Bollywood dance class.

0:47:450:47:46

Is this a big craze now? Is Bolly Sweat the thing?

0:47:460:47:49

What happens in India is because Bollywood music is so popular,

0:47:490:47:52

people want to do the same thing on Bollywood songs,

0:47:520:47:54

and that's what we are doing here.

0:47:540:47:56

But why is there such a big increase in these kinds of classes?

0:47:560:47:59

Because driving here I've seen fitness spas and health clubs

0:47:590:48:01

-and everything like that.

-There's a lot of general influence

0:48:010:48:04

of the western culture coming in. People are getting more aware,

0:48:040:48:07

so there are people working in multi-national companies these days.

0:48:070:48:10

There are gyms in the companies, there are swimming pools

0:48:100:48:13

-and stuff like that.

-OK.

0:48:130:48:14

These companies have, you know, a culture of fitness,

0:48:140:48:17

you know, you need to make them a regular habit for yourself.

0:48:170:48:19

Gently. Gently for me.

0:48:190:48:21

We're going to take it slow, you know, it's a group class,

0:48:210:48:24

-so there'll be other people doing it with you.

-Right, let's go.

0:48:240:48:27

Great, come.

0:48:270:48:28

BOLLYWOOD MUSIC PLAYS

0:48:360:48:38

The nation's waistlines might be growing

0:48:450:48:47

but so is its fitness industry, now worth £1 billion a year!

0:48:470:48:51

As ever, in India, the people seem to keep what they love

0:48:530:48:56

and embrace what's new.

0:48:560:48:57

That's all right, that was all right.

0:48:590:49:01

BOLLYWOOD MUSIC PLAYS

0:49:020:49:04

Turns out I'm a natural,

0:49:120:49:14

or maybe these Bollywood moves are just second nature.

0:49:140:49:17

Bolly Sweat, fantastic. I've lost 2st, I'm off for a burger.

0:49:250:49:29

While I wait for my heart rate to recover,

0:49:310:49:34

I want to find out from my fellow dancers why this is so popular.

0:49:340:49:38

This is not arranged marriages any more?

0:49:450:49:48

There are but...

0:49:480:49:49

-Now we have...

-Ah, OK, so...

0:49:510:49:54

Is that one of the criteria? Do they give, "I want size zero."

0:50:000:50:03

But the way to this hunk's heart is still food.

0:50:100:50:13

So what's hot in Delhi now?

0:50:130:50:15

-Momos.

-What's momos?

0:50:150:50:17

-Ready to go?

-Yes.

-Come on, excellent.

0:50:220:50:24

The Bolly Sweaters are taking me to their regular momo stand

0:50:260:50:30

around the corner.

0:50:300:50:31

I'll let you.

0:50:340:50:35

This is the first time I've had food here

0:50:350:50:37

that isn't the traditional Punjabi flavours that I grew up with.

0:50:370:50:41

Vegetarian.

0:50:410:50:43

So that's the momo.

0:50:430:50:45

And that's cooked in a tandoor?

0:50:450:50:47

That's it's, stuffed.

0:50:480:50:49

You've got this fantastic light dough, like dim sum.

0:50:520:50:56

The filling -

0:50:560:50:57

garlic, ginger, chilli, onion, spices,

0:50:570:51:00

and then you've got this fantastic chutney,

0:51:000:51:02

vinegar and chilli, simple two ingredients.

0:51:020:51:05

It's hot, but then it doesn't detract

0:51:050:51:07

from the flavour of the momo.

0:51:070:51:08

The Punjabis came after partition, changed the food scene,

0:51:100:51:14

completely, and now the things like the momos, that's Tibetan,

0:51:140:51:18

and we made our own.

0:51:180:51:19

It's amazing how everything keeps reinventing itself.

0:51:190:51:21

These young Delhiites have got it sorted - work hard, play hard.

0:51:240:51:27

After a Bollywood Sweat class,

0:51:270:51:29

they're out for the best food that's on the street

0:51:290:51:31

and it just shows you the face of Delhi food keeps changing.

0:51:310:51:34

Refugees from Tibet, from Afghanistan

0:51:340:51:37

bringing their food in and changing the culture

0:51:370:51:39

of food slightly again.

0:51:390:51:41

It's obviously keep evolving.

0:51:410:51:42

I think that's what's wonderful about food in India,

0:51:420:51:44

the traditions are going to stay the same

0:51:440:51:46

but they've got tweaks from whatever comes in.

0:51:460:51:49

It's my last day and I'm finally in the heart of the capital.

0:52:090:52:13

Today I will be reunited

0:52:140:52:16

with the side of my family who stayed in Delhi

0:52:160:52:19

after travelling 300 miles from Amritsar as refugees back in 1947.

0:52:190:52:26

From what I know, temporary camps were set up all over the city

0:52:260:52:29

to shelter the millions of displaced people,

0:52:290:52:33

and my great-grandparents ended up here at the Red Fort.

0:52:330:52:36

This was one of the largest refugee camps just after partition,

0:52:390:52:43

with 13 million people moved over an arbitrary line drawn on a map.

0:52:430:52:49

My great-grandparents done that journey.

0:52:490:52:51

I can't even imagine what hardships they went through.

0:52:510:52:54

We came down in fun, in luxury, stopping to have food. They didn't

0:52:540:52:57

even know when their next meal was coming, or whether they'd make it.

0:52:570:53:00

Imagine this full of people, tents,

0:53:020:53:04

but you're on the road for weeks to get here

0:53:040:53:07

and then you're thrown into this.

0:53:070:53:10

And that's for millions of people. We were just one family.

0:53:100:53:13

And that dispersed the Sikhs throughout the world.

0:53:140:53:18

But a million people dying in that time, I can't get my head round it.

0:53:180:53:22

No, I can't even get my...

0:53:220:53:24

There's only five million people in Scotland, all of Scotland.

0:53:240:53:26

But there's things to find out now so I can tell my kids.

0:53:280:53:30

I need to speak to somebody who actually lived through partition.

0:53:330:53:37

I'm going to see my great-uncle at the family home

0:53:380:53:42

that sits on the same plot

0:53:420:53:44

my great-grandparents were given 60 years ago.

0:53:440:53:47

There you go.

0:53:500:53:52

That's the house, great-grandad's name,

0:53:520:53:56

my grandad's name, my granny's name.

0:53:560:53:59

It's so hard to imagine that

0:53:590:54:01

when they came here, this was nothing.

0:54:010:54:02

This was all farmland, all everywhere,

0:54:020:54:06

this was the blocks going backwards.

0:54:060:54:08

15ft by 60ft, that was it, that's what they were given,

0:54:080:54:12

and it shows the heart of the Punjabi spirit,

0:54:120:54:16

look what they've built round, look at the house.

0:54:160:54:18

They stayed, they prospered, they travelled the world.

0:54:180:54:21

I'm just glad to be home.

0:54:210:54:23

My parents have flown over from Scotland for their regular visit.

0:54:300:54:34

HE GREETS IN PUNJABI

0:54:350:54:37

It feels good to see my mum

0:54:420:54:45

and my dad.

0:54:450:54:47

They've arranged for me to spend time

0:54:470:54:49

with my 89-year-old great-uncle Ammar.

0:54:490:54:52

I've only met him once and I've never spoken to him

0:54:550:54:58

about our family history or his own experiences.

0:54:580:55:01

THEY SPEAK IN PUNJABI

0:55:010:55:03

TRANSLATION:

0:55:030:55:06

HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

0:55:080:55:12

He got to the camps around 13 or 14, he was there for six years.

0:55:120:55:17

Formative years till he was 20.

0:55:170:55:19

I can't even imagine what it was like.

0:55:190:55:21

So, when they were coming down, there was so much danger there.

0:55:230:55:27

This was a partition on religious grounds.

0:55:270:55:30

Which got Muslims were attacking the Sikhs.

0:55:300:55:33

On the way up, the Hindus were attacking the Muslims.

0:55:330:55:35

It was horrendously sad to see.

0:55:350:55:38

Guns, bombs going off and everything.

0:55:380:55:41

HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI

0:55:410:55:43

'I asked my great-uncle about my grandad, how he got to the UK.

0:55:430:55:47

'It was like a lot of Punjabis at the time, they went to find work

0:55:470:55:51

'and their plans were to go, make a little bit of money

0:55:510:55:53

'and come back to their homes here.

0:55:530:55:55

'But, unfortunately, he died in a car accident'

0:55:550:55:58

and that's how my family, my grandad, my granny

0:55:580:56:02

and everybody stayed up in Scotland.

0:56:020:56:03

They ended up there, ended putting their roots down there.

0:56:030:56:06

I asked my great-granduncle what he feels because we're in Scotland,

0:56:080:56:12

there's other people round parts of the world and everything.

0:56:120:56:15

He says, "It's great. It's God's will, it is amazing."

0:56:150:56:18

And he says it doesn't matter because we're just one blood

0:56:180:56:21

and that's it.

0:56:210:56:22

TRANSLATION:

0:56:230:56:31

It's been years since we met, but then even then you didn't ask these

0:56:500:56:53

questions because when you're young you think you've got all the time

0:56:530:56:56

in the world and everybody's going to be there and you know it all.

0:56:560:56:59

It's not true.

0:56:590:57:00

I'm realising my family bonds, like my Indian traditions, are strong

0:57:070:57:12

and that good food brings people together.

0:57:120:57:14

My mum has cooked up a feast, and this journey has shown me

0:57:160:57:19

that her Punjabi cooking is the real deal.

0:57:190:57:22

-Is that nice?

-Yes.

0:57:230:57:25

I came to find out if I could fit in and I can.

0:57:270:57:30

I can have one foot in Punjab and one foot in Scotland

0:57:320:57:36

and I am proud to have two strong, independent heritages

0:57:360:57:41

that I can call my own.

0:57:410:57:42

I'm so fortunate.

0:57:460:57:47

I didn't know more than half the stuff that I've been

0:57:470:57:49

discovering coming down the same road as my great-great-grandparents

0:57:490:57:54

as refugees.

0:57:540:57:56

And it's my duty to tell my kids

0:57:560:57:59

and I can't wait to see them to tell them.

0:57:590:58:01

It's a bloke's dream, this is.

0:58:070:58:09

In Argentina, MasterChef judge John Torode

0:58:090:58:12

learns the secrets of cooking with fire...

0:58:120:58:15

Wow, look at that.

0:58:150:58:16

..and searches for the best piece of steak in the world.

0:58:160:58:21

What a way to eat.

0:58:210:58:22

What a way to cook.

0:58:220:58:23

What a way to live.

0:58:230:58:24

FIREWORKS SHRIEK AND CRACKLE

0:58:470:58:50

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