Classics The Hairy Bikers' Comfort Food


Classics

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We've travelled the world and eaten everywhere

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from roadside bars to restaurants with Michelin stars.

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But there really is nothing like a bit of home cooking.

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Coming into a warm kitchen filled with the aroma

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of a tasty meal bubbling away.

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It's one of life's great pleasures.

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Lovingly prepared dishes with flavours that pack a punch.

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It's the perfect way to put smiles on the faces

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of your nearest and dearest.

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We also uncover why some recipes are so special that they're handed down

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through generations of the same family.

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-Who makes the best spaghetti?

-You.

-Right answer.

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Who's going to have the first piece? Ooh!

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Drop in on some of the UK's homeliest tearooms and cafes and...

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-BELL RINGS

-Service!

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..find out what chefs like to cook on their days off.

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ALL: Ooh!

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That looks amazing.

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It's just much easier and much quicker.

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There's nothing quite as comforting as simple home cooking.

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Today, some dishes always hit the spot.

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Guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

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These are our favourite comforting classics.

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When you talk about classics you think of Beethoven, Bach,

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Rembrandt and Titian.

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-Yes!

-But what we're cooking is classics of the culinary world.

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And we've got a few tricks to show you about the burger.

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We're going to show you how to make the perfect burger

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but with one addition.

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This - bone marrow.

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It supercharges the flavour of that beef and makes that burger soft,

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juicy and tender and full of meaty, flavoury goodness.

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This is chuck steak and it's just at the point of nearly being frozen.

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Now, we mince it while it's nearly frozen because it keeps the texture

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more intact. You want to have a bit of bite with your burger.

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Now, you'll see where the bone ends and the bone marrow starts and what

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you do is you just put your spoon in there like that and run it down

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the length of the bone.

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And the bone marrow

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will come out nice and easily.

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You know, Dave, I don't know what you've found,

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but bone marrow's quite popular now, isn't it?

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I mean, we've been using it for quite a lot of years.

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-Yeah, yeah.

-And it's such a great ingredient.

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And all I'm doing, while Dave's mincing his steak,

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I'm just chopping the bone marrow really nice and fine.

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I mean, there really is no comparison between a burger made

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with bought mince and making burgers like this.

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And also making burgers from scratch,

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there's something lovely about it, because you can get the kids

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involved in it and then building burgers, it's just great, man.

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This will make about four half-pounders,

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in old money. Or, in new money, four 200-grammers.

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Now, you can see how fine I'm chopping this bone marrow.

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Mate, the bone marrow is ready when you are.

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Well, here we go.

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No eggs, no rusk, no odd additives apart from bone marrow.

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And it's funny, isn't it, you know how you forget the classics,

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how you forget the taste of what it should taste like?

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-Yeah, yeah.

-So, clean hands.

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What we do is we make sure that that...

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Should I start to season as you go?

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Yes, please, Dave, that would be great.

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-Lots of black pepper in these burgers.

-Deffo.

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Look at the technique here -

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turning the meat in on itself so that bone marrow is evenly

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distributed throughout every single piece of meat.

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Going to half it...

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..and then quarter it.

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These are massive. Do you think they're too big?

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Nah!

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No!

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DAVE LAUGHS

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Right, so, very simple, the formation of the burger.

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So, into a round,

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just like you're making a bun.

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And because we've got the textures right, we don't need any eggs,

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any breadcrumbs or anything to pad it out.

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This will hold together perfectly well.

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That's a fine burger.

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Number one.

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I do get excited with stuff like this.

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Now, let's put some heat on the griddle.

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Now, treat your burger like a fillet steak, OK?

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Your griddle needs to be hot.

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BURGER SIZZLES

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-Look at that.

-Now, we're just going to put two on at a time.

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Yeah. You're looking at about three to four minutes per side.

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You're just going to stand there and gaze lovingly at it, aren't you?

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-Should I make the sauce?

-Go on, do, go on.

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Right, this is a brilliant burger sauce.

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And what we do is we get mayonnaise,

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two big spoons of tomato ketchup -

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tablespoons will do...

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This is chipotle paste.

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Chipotle's a chilli but it's got

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a real smoky flavour and so a teaspoon

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of this in a sauce gives it a really good kind of chilli, smoky flavour.

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..garlic powder...

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..a gherkin, diced fine.

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In fact, what we're doing, Si, this is our secret recipe.

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-I know.

-We shouldn't be telling people this.

-No, we shouldn't. No.

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And all that's needed to finish this off is a squeeze of lemon juice.

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Squeeze!

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I'll just stir all these wonderful ingredients together.

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Now, cheese again, it's a matter of choice.

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We're going classic because these are classic burgers.

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We're doing gruyere.

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It's a good melter and it adds something to the burger.

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It's not just a decoration.

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You could use mozzarella but, hell, you want to taste cheese,

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and gruyere...

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-It just works, doesn't it?

-I know.

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Now, if you're making a cheeseburger I would suggest that you add

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the cheese at this point so that it's got time to melt and ooze.

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-Are you ready?

-Yep.

-Yep!

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And don't be shy.

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-Toasted baps.

-Absolutely.

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We're using brioche buns.

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It's kind of newfangled but this is something that's newfangled

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that I believe works beautifully.

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I'll pass this to toastmeister.

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Thank you, sir.

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Onion rings, tomatoes, it's got to be done.

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I want these quite thick.

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I want onion rings, I don't want onion fragments.

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There you go.

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So, first off,

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I would start with dressing and lettuce and then the burger.

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Now, I defy anybody to say that that's possibly

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the best burger you have ever seen.

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Yes!

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Now, I would probably go for a knife and fork with this burger.

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The texture is superb.

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The beefiness is superb.

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The seasoning's superb, the gruyere...

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This is the perfect burger.

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Every dish tells a story.

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It may be about the ingredients that define it,

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the memories it evokes or the people who created it.

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This is the story of Giovanni and Luca's risotto.

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Luca and myself grew up in the same tiny hamlet,

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which is called Carimate between Lake Como and Milano

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and we've known each other

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since we were five or six years old, no?

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-Yes, yes, yes, yes, we meet in the primary school.

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

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And Luca, what is the best risotto you ever tried in your life?

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Oh absolutely the best risotto was the risotto of my grandmother,

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Nonna Lina, the risotto Milanese, the yellow risotto with saffron.

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Now we're going to make the best risotto alla Milanese -

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saffron risotto in English -

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according to the traditional recipe as it should be.

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This is the first secret for a good risotto.

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For a good broth you have to use this kind of meat.

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We have the scamone, we have the bianco...

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-Which is flank.

-The biancostato.

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-The rump.

-Cappello del prete.

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-Feather blade.

-La gallina vecchia.

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Which is old hen, it has to be old.

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-El ossobuco.

-Bone marrow.

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Now we are able to prepare the best broth.

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Just two carrots and tomato.

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One onion.

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And the celery.

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This is what we need for the meat broth.

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The hen first because it's big.

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Biancostato.

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And this one.

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-Perfection.

-Voila.

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Now that the broth is ready,

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which rice are you going to use for the risotto alla Milanese?

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We will use the famous carnaroli -

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the only rice you can use for the good risotto.

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The starch is contained in the white part and the heat is going to take

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out the starch out of the rice and is going to make the risotto creamy

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and that's the beautiful texture that everybody loves

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about risotto alla Milanese.

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This is another little secret.

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You have to use the Italian butter.

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My mother taught me and we make risotto I think

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till four generations.

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-I'll put the rice in.

-Thank you.

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THEY CONVERSE IN OWN LANGUAGE

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This is for four person.

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The nice thing is that the rice when you toast it is going to become

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translucent, so when it becomes almost transparent it means

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that this is the right moment to add white wine.

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We have to wait till the wine is completely absorbed by the rice,

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then we're ready for the broth.

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And we are ready now.

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THEY LAUGH

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SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE

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Here we are.

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How long do we need to cook the rice in the broth by adding,

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stirring the broth?

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We have to put broth continuously for about 18 minutes.

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-OK.

-You have to...

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Stir continuously.

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Yes, continuously because it's very dangerous that the rice...

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-Is going to touch.

-..touch on the bottom of the pot.

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Now, I have to prepare the saffron.

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Take a little bit of broth.

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Why are you adding the broth to the glass?

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Because I need something warm for the saffron

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to release the colour and the flavour.

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Take a little bit this way.

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And like magic the risotto becomes yellow.

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-OK.

-It's like alchemy.

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-Yeah.

-The risotto's going to turn yellow.

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This is another little trick for a creamy risotto -

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a glass of milk, cold milk.

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Usually Grana Padano like Parmesan to complete it and make it perfect.

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We can relax for five minutes because the risotto has to rest.

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OK.

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Look at how creamy it is, amazing.

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-Yeah.

-And the colour.

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-Yeah.

-I can still see the bits of saffron inside.

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OK.

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Oh, this is great.

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Cheese melt in the risotto.

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Let's put it here.

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Wow.

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HE LAUGHS

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My favourite dish.

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Do you think your Nonna Lina would be proud of this risotto?

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Yeah, yeah.

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-I'm proud of this risotto.

-That's good.

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You try it.

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Delicious. The best risotto alla Milanese that I can find in London.

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THEY LAUGH

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Very good.

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You see, there are some classics that are around that, quite frankly,

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I think we could make them a bit classier.

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How dare you?

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I mean the Pavlova was said to have born...

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-inspired by Anna Pavlova the ballerina.

-AHH!

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And the meringue is meant to represent her tutu.

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God knows what the kiwi fruit on top represents.

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-ATTEMPTING NEW ZEALAND ACCENT:

-It represents New Zealand.

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-Let's not go there.

-But then the New Zealanders say they invented it,

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the Australians say they invented it.

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Well, I tell you what, we have invented the Pavlova

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with black cherries in Kirsch with a spiced plum topping.

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Look at all these beautiful, beautiful cherries.

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-Are they dried sour cherries?

-Dried sour cherries.

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We're going to put them in the pan,

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put some Kirsch on them and just simmer away until they become plump.

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Kirsch, by the very nature of what Kirsch is, is a cherry liquor -

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not liqueur, because it's not sweet and it's great.

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This is what makes your Black Forest gateaux a classic.

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Right, so I'm just going to leave these to simmer.

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Now, I need five egg whites in here.

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I'm going to have to make some noise.

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These need whisking to soft peaks.

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Right, while you're doing that, mate, I've washed these plums.

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I'm just going to quarter them and stone them.

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The meringue consists of egg whites, sugar, cinnamon,

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and white wine vinegar.

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The white wine vinegar helps with the texture of the meringue.

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So I can put the cinnamon straight into the sugar.

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That'll make basic cinnamon sugar.

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I'm now going to pare an orange,

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which basically means I'm going to try and get the orange zest off.

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I think that's spot on. So now lastly, the white wine vinegar.

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This will make this a mellow mallow.

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And we can just fold this in.

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While Dave's stirring this through,

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I'm going to start to make our syrup.

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So, the juice of a whole orange...

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The meringue is going to be light and this is tissue paper.

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So, we've got a fan oven, so what could happen is

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the whole thing would just take off and be blown

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around the oven, so I just take a dab there of meringue, dab there,

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dab there,

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dab there on me baking parchment.

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-Genius.

-And just turn it over and stick the grease-proof down.

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But what I've done is, because I want some artistry to it,

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I've drawn a template for the perimeter of me meringue.

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I've just drawn around a plate.

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We paint this loud and proud within the confines of my template.

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What I want to do is I want to build it up so it's thicker on the outside

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than the middle because I want a well for all those wonderful plums.

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We're going to do a cream as well,

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and the most fabulous cherries to sit.

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Just make a little crater there,

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place that in a preheated oven, a low oven,

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at 130 Celsius for about an hour and a quarter.

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Now, while Dave's doing that, I'm going to get on with the syrup.

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So, we've got the juice of an orange, the orange peel

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that we pared, some sugar.

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Look, some red wine!

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OK, so you want a good glug of red wine.

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It's about 200ml, I think.

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Aye, it's about that, isn't it?

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-Yeah. Yeah, about 200ml.

-I always think 200ml is about a mugful.

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Cinnamon. And we take some allspice and some cardamom.

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And we just crush them a little bit. Mmm.

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And the great thing is as winter's gone on, you know when you get...

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If you get all bunged up, you just get your friend to do this and just,

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it clears the passages.

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Pop that in there.

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That's practically Christmas in a pan, isn't it?

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It is, it's lovely.

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That's a wonderful spiced syrup for those plums.

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So, what we're going to do is bring this to the boil

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until the sugar's dissolved.

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They go into there.

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And we'll cook those down until they're lovely and soft,

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gorgeous and unctuous.

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The meringue is done.

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I'm whipping me cream. I'm going to add some icing sugar -

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about a tablespoon.

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Now, this blew up like Vesuvius.

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It has gone down a bit and there are some cracks, but don't worry,

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because it's nice and mallowy in the middle and that's what you want and

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basically all these cracks are going to be hidden with the spiced cream.

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OK, little sprinkle of cinnamon.

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Push that through the cream.

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Mr Myers, there.

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Is that stiff enough, do you reckon?

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Oh, aye, look at that.

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Could you put us a dob on here?

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Top tip, this. This is a classic cake stand,

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commonly known as a tazza, T-A-Z-Z-A.

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The meringue goes on this and because of the cream,

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it won't slip around.

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There you are, mate.

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-Thank you.

-And all of this cinnamon sugary cream goes on in a mountain

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of loveliness.

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While Dave's doing that,

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I'm going to take some of the syrup from the plums and mix that

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with our cherries.

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Oh, and look - look what's happened when you put that syrup and

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the cherries together -

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they've got a beautiful, beautiful sheen on them.

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Oh! This is going to be good.

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This is fragile but that's of huge benefit when you're eating it.

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-These plums are great.

-Thanks.

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And the spicy fruit and the sharpness,

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it'll cut nicely through the sweet meringue and the spiced cream.

0:19:540:19:58

Oh, they're good, eh.

0:19:580:20:01

If that's one of me five a day, bring it on.

0:20:010:20:03

-Beautiful colours, aren't they?

-Yeah.

0:20:050:20:07

What a great, great option if people don't want

0:20:070:20:12

-a heavy Christmas pudding.

-Yeah.

0:20:120:20:13

And then just before you're ready to serve your guests,

0:20:150:20:17

or indeed yourself, just build it at the last moment.

0:20:170:20:20

And look at that.

0:20:220:20:23

This is a new classic.

0:20:260:20:27

Nothing beats homemade comfort food,

0:20:400:20:43

but every now and then, it's nice to have someone else cook for you.

0:20:430:20:46

Thankfully, all over the country, there are places

0:20:480:20:50

that make us feel right at home and keep enticing us back.

0:20:500:20:54

My name is Jonathan Botham, although I'm just always known as Joe.

0:20:570:21:02

We're a family business, based around a bakery,

0:21:020:21:06

bakery shops and tea rooms.

0:21:060:21:08

It was founded 150 years ago by my great-grandmother.

0:21:110:21:16

She had ten children of her own,

0:21:160:21:18

so she really had to put the food on the table, quite literally.

0:21:180:21:22

She was baking and selling tea cakes and pies.

0:21:250:21:29

She had a green handcart, which she would take down

0:21:300:21:33

to the market in Whitby to sell her goods.

0:21:330:21:37

Eventually, she rented a shop.

0:21:370:21:39

That did OK and it went from strength to strength.

0:21:390:21:43

The whole of Whitby has an air of yesteryear.

0:21:440:21:48

It really hasn't tried to...

0:21:480:21:51

keep up with the times.

0:21:510:21:53

It's just kept what was good and looked after it.

0:21:530:21:57

Our tea room, I think, other than changing the wallpaper

0:21:590:22:03

and the paint, it's really remained the same since

0:22:030:22:06

probably the early 1920s.

0:22:060:22:08

People like the peaceful,

0:22:080:22:12

fairly sedate and quiet atmosphere,

0:22:120:22:16

and it's really just very traditional.

0:22:160:22:19

-Are you ready to order?

-Yes, could we have tea after three, please?

0:22:190:22:23

We still do the black and white uniforms and table service

0:22:230:22:28

and just a sense of an old-fashioned, quiet grandeur.

0:22:280:22:33

We sell a whole range of cakes that we make in the bakery.

0:22:370:22:41

One of my favourites, of course, is one with beer.

0:22:420:22:46

I enjoy making that as well as eating it.

0:22:470:22:49

So we've got a blend of

0:22:510:22:54

fruits, vine fruits and cherries and peel,

0:22:540:22:58

which have been soaked in beer overnight.

0:22:580:23:02

We're going to be blending that with sugar and almonds and butter.

0:23:030:23:08

That combines with some egg

0:23:120:23:14

and then we'll be blending through this blend of flour and spices.

0:23:140:23:19

And then, lastly, we'll fold in fine fruits and cherries and peel.

0:23:210:23:25

We have visitors, we have locals,

0:23:290:23:32

they could be young, they could be old, families.

0:23:320:23:36

It appeals to everybody, I think.

0:23:360:23:38

The food is lovely.

0:23:410:23:44

We live in Scarborough now, but we always come back to here.

0:23:440:23:49

I've been coming for 60 years, so...

0:23:500:23:53

No, 70 years, beg your pardon,

0:23:530:23:55

and they still do a very mean cream horn!

0:23:550:23:58

We've got the fifth generation of the family working in the business.

0:24:010:24:06

It really is part of the fabric of Whitby.

0:24:060:24:10

We've been doing this for around 150 years.

0:24:100:24:15

There can't be many people left in the town

0:24:150:24:17

who haven't either worked here or have a close relative

0:24:170:24:20

who's worked here at some point.

0:24:200:24:23

You know, looking at what my family have managed to do

0:24:230:24:27

in a relatively small town, I'm immensely proud of the heritage.

0:24:270:24:30

Do you know, loads and loads of great dishes

0:24:430:24:45

are rooted in the classics.

0:24:450:24:46

I mean, you've got your coq au vin, your boeuf bourguignon,

0:24:460:24:49

your navarin of lamb and then you've got...

0:24:490:24:51

Duck a l'orange.

0:24:510:24:52

This is wonderful. it's a magret of duck's breast,

0:24:560:24:59

but with kumquats, star anise, all manner of fine things.

0:24:590:25:02

But gentle cooking techniques that I think really freshen it up.

0:25:020:25:06

I mean, duck a l'orange in the '70s, what was it?

0:25:060:25:09

A duck covered in marmalade and cremated.

0:25:090:25:12

-Fundamentally.

-Well, it was at our house.

0:25:120:25:14

Anyway. First off, I'm going to make a syrup,

0:25:140:25:17

and I'm going to slice my kumquats and kind of candy them.

0:25:170:25:22

While you're doing that, I'm going to get the roasties on,

0:25:220:25:25

-cos that's what we're serving them with.

-Oh, yes.

0:25:250:25:27

So, what we're going to do with these roasties,

0:25:270:25:31

we're going to do them in duck fat.

0:25:310:25:33

Now, what we want to do, we've put the roasting tin

0:25:340:25:37

on the heat, because we want that duck fat to sizzle,

0:25:370:25:41

and then we stick the roasties in.

0:25:410:25:43

But while it's coming to temperature,

0:25:430:25:44

what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a head of garlic,

0:25:440:25:47

take the cloves out, and just give them a smash

0:25:470:25:51

with the palm of your hand.

0:25:510:25:53

Because we're going to put them into the roasting tin

0:25:530:25:56

with the potatoes, just like that.

0:25:560:25:58

Lovely. Great. Now.

0:26:010:26:02

Our roasties. Dead simple.

0:26:050:26:08

We've just quartered them,

0:26:080:26:10

parboiled them for five minutes, take them out, cool them down,

0:26:100:26:13

ready to go. Right.

0:26:130:26:15

So I'm going to put them in.

0:26:150:26:16

-Watch the duck fat cos it can spit.

-It does spit, yeah.

0:26:190:26:21

And just coat all of those potatoes in that lush duck fat.

0:26:210:26:26

Now, I'll chuck my kumquats into that syrup.

0:26:280:26:31

I'm going to simmer them until they're soft.

0:26:310:26:33

And after a while, you know you get glace cherries,

0:26:330:26:36

I'll have glace kumquats.

0:26:360:26:38

I like saying kumquats.

0:26:380:26:39

In anticipation of stage two, I'm going to finely dice two shallots.

0:26:430:26:47

Throw in your cloves of garlic.

0:26:500:26:53

-With positive gay abandonment.

-Absolutely.

0:26:530:26:56

Rosemary.

0:26:570:26:58

Now...

0:27:000:27:01

liberally season...

0:27:010:27:03

..with some salt and some pepper.

0:27:040:27:08

And stick them in a preheated oven at 220 degrees

0:27:080:27:13

for half an hour.

0:27:130:27:14

And that gives me half an hour for my sauce to reduce to a thick,

0:27:160:27:20

unctuous, syrupy loveliness,

0:27:200:27:22

and for Kingy to prepare the star of the show.

0:27:220:27:25

The duck breast.

0:27:260:27:27

-These are beautiful, aren't they?

-They are, aren't they?

0:27:290:27:31

-Absolutely beautiful.

-You see, I kind of like cooking duck like this.

0:27:310:27:34

I think duck is a bird of two parts.

0:27:340:27:36

You've got the thighs and the legs,

0:27:360:27:37

which I think need long, slow cooking, but the breasts,

0:27:370:27:40

you want them juicy. It's a quick hit of fire.

0:27:400:27:42

Now, look at these.

0:27:420:27:44

They've kind of gone candied and that's exactly what I want.

0:27:450:27:48

I'm going to set those aside for after.

0:27:480:27:51

I'm going to use this syrup as the bitter sweet foundations

0:27:510:27:54

of rather a wonderful sauce.

0:27:540:27:56

Pop that back on the heat and I want about 200mls of red wine to go

0:27:590:28:02

in there, which is lucky cos that's about all I've got left.

0:28:020:28:06

And the juice of two oranges.

0:28:070:28:09

What I'm doing is I'm just crisscrossing the duck breast.

0:28:150:28:18

Then I'm not scoring it right down to the flesh.

0:28:190:28:22

I'm just going into the fat layer.

0:28:260:28:29

And just let the weight of the knife draw through the skin.

0:28:290:28:32

Right, there's my orange juice.

0:28:330:28:36

Pop that in to join the red wine.

0:28:360:28:38

And to that, the shallots.

0:28:380:28:41

And that needs to boil away until it's reduced in volume by half.

0:28:440:28:48

I mean, duck a l'orange, it was always a classy dish, wasn't it?

0:28:500:28:53

You went to that bistro and, you know, "I'll have duck a l'orange."

0:28:530:28:56

Oh, yeah.

0:28:560:28:58

A lot of the time, it was the only French people could speak.

0:28:580:29:01

Oh!

0:29:010:29:03

Now, my next stage, I put in my stock...

0:29:030:29:06

..and again, that's got to reduce by half,

0:29:070:29:10

and a tablespoon of red wine vinegar.

0:29:100:29:13

Lovely.

0:29:130:29:14

And the little star of flavour that is the star anise.

0:29:150:29:19

We put two of these in...

0:29:200:29:21

..and that's the base of the sauce finished,

0:29:230:29:25

but we need to reduce that by half to get it more, more intense.

0:29:250:29:28

Right, here's a top tip.

0:29:300:29:31

You know how Dave and I always tell you to put heat on the pans

0:29:310:29:34

before you cook anything? Well, with duck breast,

0:29:340:29:36

it's slightly different, because what we want to do

0:29:360:29:38

is bring the duck breast and the pan up to temperature at the same time,

0:29:380:29:42

so the fat underneath the skin renders out.

0:29:420:29:45

So, we put them into a cold pan.

0:29:450:29:49

We want about five to six minutes skin side down, turn it over,

0:29:490:29:54

then about four minutes,

0:29:540:29:56

and then we'll put them to the side and let them rest.

0:29:560:29:58

So, how do you like your duck's breast?

0:29:580:30:01

Pink. But not very pink.

0:30:010:30:04

Just pink.

0:30:040:30:05

I like it a poir, as they say. Just so.

0:30:050:30:08

Right, I'm happy with that, Kingy.

0:30:090:30:11

-I'm going to turn that off...

-OK.

-..and pop in my kumquats.

0:30:110:30:14

And they're going to sit, loud and proud, so not only is it a sauce,

0:30:160:30:20

it has got a built-in garnish.

0:30:200:30:22

Beautiful.

0:30:230:30:24

How's them potatoes doing, mukka?

0:30:250:30:28

They're crisping up a treat.

0:30:280:30:30

I wish I could see anything!

0:30:300:30:33

Right, mate, I think they're done.

0:30:350:30:37

Ingots of duck gold.

0:30:370:30:38

I'll just take them out, let them rest for a little bit.

0:30:400:30:43

They're tense in that pan, aren't they?

0:30:430:30:45

They just need to relax and go,

0:30:450:30:48

"Phwoar, it's a bit cooler out here. Oh, thank goodness for that!

0:30:480:30:51

"Oh, what can be better now than to be swathed in kumquat sauce?"

0:30:510:30:54

Greens are done, as well, mate.

0:30:560:30:57

Oh, yes!

0:30:580:31:00

Oh, gosh, this is so full of flavour.

0:31:040:31:06

But the duck can take it.

0:31:060:31:08

Mr King, that is how I would like my duck in a restaurant.

0:31:090:31:14

-Yeah, that's how I like it, man.

-Just so.

-Yeah.

0:31:140:31:17

Those potatoes are sublime, aren't they?

0:31:180:31:21

-Absolutely.

-We don't mind if the odd bit of garlic gets in there, too.

0:31:210:31:25

Le sauce!

0:31:270:31:28

-Over the duck?

-Absolutely.

0:31:300:31:31

Oh, yeah, well done.

0:31:330:31:35

-Yes.

-It's classical, it's sensational.

0:31:350:31:38

But with that sauce, it's really pretty special.

0:31:400:31:43

Oh, it's great.

0:31:430:31:44

That makes me smile.

0:31:510:31:53

Oh, it does, doesn't it?

0:31:530:31:55

The flavours are so traditional, but just supercharged.

0:31:550:31:58

Oh, man, it's good.

0:31:580:32:00

Duck a la kumquat.

0:32:000:32:02

It doesn't have quite the ring to it, but it does on the plate!

0:32:020:32:06

Britain has an army of creative chefs

0:32:100:32:13

who, day after day, send out sensational dishes

0:32:130:32:15

to customers in their restaurants.

0:32:150:32:18

They work long hours, toiling over their stoves.

0:32:180:32:22

But back at home, what's their idea of comfort food?

0:32:220:32:25

My name's Michael Smith.

0:32:270:32:28

I'm the executive chef of this restaurant here -

0:32:280:32:30

Porthminster Beach Cafe - and also two more in the town

0:32:300:32:33

of St Ives, here in Cornwall.

0:32:330:32:34

So, we're sending lobster cocktail, crab cake and a mackerel,

0:32:370:32:40

-table four please.

-Oui, chef.

0:32:400:32:41

I'm from Australia originally, from a little town

0:32:420:32:45

down on the Great Ocean Road.

0:32:450:32:46

I didn't start cooking for the normal reasons, usually.

0:32:470:32:50

I was washing dishes in a restaurant,

0:32:500:32:51

and these chefs were coming in at two o'clock in the afternoon and,

0:32:510:32:55

you know, they had this fantastic life.

0:32:550:32:57

They seemed to have all the morning off.

0:32:570:32:59

They used to drink beers all night and surf all morning and I thought,

0:32:590:33:02

"This looks like a pretty good lifestyle to me."

0:33:020:33:05

I think I was originally attracted to cooking for those reasons,

0:33:060:33:10

but then after time, like after the first couple of years

0:33:100:33:13

of my apprenticeship, I found that I really had a passion for it,

0:33:130:33:16

and I ended up working, at the time, a one of the best restaurants

0:33:160:33:18

in Melbourne, I'd say.

0:33:180:33:20

Like a lot of young Australians,

0:33:230:33:25

I came back to Europe and just wanted to see, I guess,

0:33:250:33:27

where my family originally came from.

0:33:270:33:29

And I heard of Rick Stein down here and heard little bit about

0:33:290:33:33

surfing, as well, and I thought, you know,

0:33:330:33:35

that sounds like a place to check out,

0:33:350:33:37

and 15 years later I'm still here!

0:33:370:33:39

We do specialise in seafood.

0:33:420:33:44

The majority of it here is caught locally.

0:33:440:33:46

We get great mackerel out here in St Ives Bay,

0:33:460:33:49

and it's a great talking point for our restaurant waiting staff to say,

0:33:490:33:53

"Just out there, that's come from just out there", you know,

0:33:530:33:55

and I really like that, that we can say that.

0:33:550:33:58

Not many places can.

0:33:580:33:59

OK, soup of the day, monkfish will be finishing.

0:34:000:34:03

The one dish that sort of stands out here, not by design,

0:34:030:34:07

was a curry I came up with a while ago, a monkfish curry.

0:34:070:34:10

It's a Thai-ish sort of Indonesian-ish-style curry,

0:34:110:34:15

and I just made it up and put it together.

0:34:150:34:17

And whenever I take it off the menu now, everyone's in uproar,

0:34:170:34:20

so people come in specifically for that dish.

0:34:200:34:22

OK, monkfish curry.

0:34:240:34:25

Another thing that drew me to Cornwall was the fact that

0:34:310:34:34

there's some waves.

0:34:340:34:35

I lived in Australia and was brought up on the ocean surfing

0:34:370:34:41

from a young age. I still haven't got much better than when I was

0:34:410:34:45

a young age, but I still really enjoy surfing.

0:34:450:34:47

In my spare time, whenever there is waves, it keeps me sane.

0:34:510:34:55

Going for a little splash in the water, definitely!

0:34:560:34:59

Home time for me, when I get away from the restaurant and kitchen,

0:35:100:35:13

I love cooking roasts at home.

0:35:130:35:16

I try to take Sundays off, and because I've never actually

0:35:160:35:20

cooked roast dinners in any of the restaurants,

0:35:200:35:23

that's kind of my relaxed time.

0:35:230:35:24

Get a glass of red wine and just cruise.

0:35:250:35:27

There's no stress about creating the food, you know.

0:35:270:35:30

I can take all the time in the world,

0:35:300:35:32

it's just feeding myself and my wife and my boys.

0:35:320:35:34

-Do you want a beer?

-Yeah, please.

0:35:350:35:38

Roasts sort of take over in the winter, but you know,

0:35:380:35:41

in the summertime, on my day off and the weather's great,

0:35:410:35:44

I get out and cook a barbecue, being Australian, of course, you know.

0:35:440:35:48

Really lucky that one of my partners in the business, Roger,

0:35:490:35:52

has a fishing boat in the harbour and he often goes out

0:35:520:35:56

catching mackerel, and a great thing to do is grab a bit of mackerel

0:35:560:35:59

off Roger and then come down.

0:35:590:36:01

That's kind of the ideal thing for a barbecue in St Ives.

0:36:010:36:04

Well, we've got beautiful British beach weather here,

0:36:070:36:09

so we thought we'd come down and do a barbecue with that

0:36:090:36:12

lovely mackerel that Roger's caught and I've got a couple

0:36:120:36:15

of my mates here, so I've got a few Cornish ciders and beers out.

0:36:150:36:19

These are Padron peppers and they're great if you just blister them.

0:36:220:36:26

I just took a little bit of a stroll up around the garden

0:36:270:36:29

and I found some apples and some fuchsia berries and some rosemary,

0:36:290:36:34

and I've got some Cornish new potatoes, as well.

0:36:340:36:37

So we're just going to put it all on the barbecue and bring it

0:36:370:36:41

all together and squeeze some lemon juice on it and make it lovely.

0:36:410:36:45

Someone else? Mackerel.

0:36:480:36:49

Cooking, for me, is a really joyful experience,

0:36:510:36:54

because there's nothing better than seeing a raw product

0:36:540:36:57

and turning it into something that people enjoy.

0:36:570:37:00

And that can be the people that actually made it,

0:37:000:37:02

to the people that are eating it, and I think that's...

0:37:020:37:06

Being a part of that whole experience is fantastic

0:37:060:37:08

and that's why I still love being a chef.

0:37:080:37:10

LAUGHTER

0:37:100:37:11

This is one classic that sees you from cradle to grave.

0:37:230:37:27

-Yes.

-As a boy, I tucked into this classic - the banana split.

-Oh.

0:37:270:37:32

But we've kind of taken the banana split to new levels.

0:37:320:37:34

We've thought about textures, flavours.

0:37:340:37:37

This is like the ultimate banana split.

0:37:370:37:39

I'm going to get on to make a chocolate sauce.

0:37:430:37:45

I've got 100g of dark chocolate that I'm going to split into cubes

0:37:450:37:49

and, if you notice, we're just putting it straight in the pan

0:37:490:37:51

this time. We're going to do it over a very, very, very low heat.

0:37:510:37:55

So just break it straight in there.

0:37:550:37:58

And I'm going to candy the hazelnuts.

0:37:580:38:00

So, basically, I want to make a caramel, run the hazelnuts,

0:38:000:38:03

which have been skinned and roasted, or you can buy them like this.

0:38:030:38:06

I'm going to set them out to make, like, toffee hazelnuts,

0:38:060:38:08

so that's your crunch.

0:38:080:38:10

I start with a knob of butter, just like that.

0:38:120:38:14

Butter, sizzle down.

0:38:140:38:16

Cream.

0:38:160:38:17

Golden syrup.

0:38:210:38:22

Ooh, look at that.

0:38:230:38:24

Can you remember your first banana split?

0:38:290:38:30

-Yeah.

-Where was it?

0:38:300:38:32

-It was in Bins in Newcastle.

-Right.

0:38:320:38:35

My Auntie Hilda took us because we used to go on a Saturday

0:38:350:38:38

and they had this cafe. She got us this banana split.

0:38:380:38:41

I could not believe it!

0:38:410:38:43

Cos we didn't... I don't know, in our house we just didn't

0:38:430:38:45

-have that sort of thing, you know.

-No, no.

-It was funny

0:38:450:38:47

and it was a big treat, a banana split.

0:38:470:38:49

-Yeah.

-I loved it.

0:38:490:38:52

Sugar goes into the butter and we're just going to let that cook down

0:38:520:38:56

and don't really stir it too much, just let the sugar do its own thing.

0:38:560:38:59

Right, so that's our chocolate sauce.

0:38:590:39:02

-That didn't take long?

-It doesn't take very long, mate.

0:39:020:39:05

And what we're going to do is we're going to whisk some butter in.

0:39:050:39:08

Whisk that in like that.

0:39:080:39:09

-And look at the sheen on that now, lovely.

-Oh, yeah.

0:39:110:39:14

Throw your nuts in.

0:39:150:39:16

And just wait till that lot's caramelised.

0:39:170:39:21

-Now, what we're going to do is add about a tablespoon of rum.

-Ooh.

0:39:210:39:25

About a capful.

0:39:270:39:28

Now we whisk that in.

0:39:300:39:31

I love rum. It's got very popular again, hasn't it?

0:39:310:39:34

It's almost had a renaissance, there's been rum from

0:39:340:39:36

all over the world coming in.

0:39:360:39:38

So, what we'll do is we'll just turn the heat off that now,

0:39:390:39:42

and we'll just keep it warm, because otherwise it'll melt the ice cream.

0:39:420:39:46

-There we are, look at them.

-Beautiful, Dave.

0:39:480:39:51

Spread them out.

0:39:540:39:55

And they'll go dry.

0:39:560:39:57

-Beautiful.

-Nice one, Dave.

0:39:570:40:00

Guess what?

0:40:000:40:01

Banana time!

0:40:010:40:03

So, first off, you peel a banana.

0:40:030:40:06

Now, we're going to put some butter in the pan.

0:40:060:40:09

And I'm going to slash my bananas laterally.

0:40:100:40:13

This is the split in your banana split.

0:40:170:40:19

When the butter starts to foam, and that'll happen in due course,

0:40:210:40:23

we then put our bananas in some sugar.

0:40:230:40:26

I love these.

0:40:260:40:28

Look at that. Nut brittle.

0:40:280:40:30

But if you don't break them up now, they can be too hard.

0:40:310:40:35

The butter's starting to foam.

0:40:350:40:37

There we go. Right.

0:40:380:40:40

One banana, two banana, three banana, four.

0:40:420:40:46

And then, add some Demerara sugar.

0:40:480:40:50

And, because we're trendy, some salt, to make salt caramel.

0:40:520:40:55

So, the whole thing about caramel is you've just got

0:40:570:40:59

to be patient with it, and it'll happen.

0:40:590:41:01

It's so lovely when it does.

0:41:030:41:04

-That's it.

-Just roll it.

0:41:070:41:08

-That's really hot.

-Yeah, be careful, watch your fingers,

0:41:100:41:14

because the last thing you want to do is stick them in hot caramel.

0:41:140:41:18

Amazing.

0:41:180:41:19

-I think we're there, do you?

-Absolutely, mate.

0:41:190:41:22

-Shall we kind of deglaze with some juju juice?

-Yeah.

0:41:220:41:25

Now, creme de banane.

0:41:250:41:26

It's a banana liqueur and what you do, is you just go...

0:41:280:41:31

Oh, melt my bananas!

0:41:340:41:37

So, the elements are there.

0:41:380:41:40

-You bowl and I'll cream.

-Perfect.

0:41:400:41:42

Oh, yes!

0:42:000:42:01

I tell you what, Kingy, we never had banana splits like this

0:42:100:42:12

when I was a kid.

0:42:120:42:13

-And last but not least, three.

-Oh!

0:42:170:42:19

One, two...

0:42:200:42:23

three.

0:42:230:42:24

And there it is - our take on a classic banana split,

0:42:290:42:33

with all sorts of marvellous things going on.

0:42:330:42:36

Look at that. The bananas are shiny and...

0:42:410:42:44

Oh!

0:42:440:42:45

This banana split should be X-rated, strictly for over-18s only.

0:42:490:42:54

Oh, hey, I tell you what, Dave,

0:42:540:42:56

the crunch with the hazelnuts is amazing.

0:42:560:42:59

They make such a difference, don't they?

0:42:590:43:01

THE banana split.

0:43:010:43:03

Hairy Bikers stylie.

0:43:040:43:06

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