Beauty Francesco's Venice


Beauty

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The terror of Attila the Hun had ravaged the hills of northern Italy.

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The refugees fled to a small group of islands in a marshy lagoon.

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This big wasteland would become the most beautiful city on earth -

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Venice.

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Its people were fierce in war and rich in trade.

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And then, one morning in April 1204,

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in pursuit of money and power,

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Venice led a vast army into one of the bloodiest battles in history -

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the sack of Constantinople.

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With victory came the power to dominate the Mediterranean

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and a new empire that would span East and West.

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Venice was now the centre of the world.

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It became rich beyond its wildest dreams

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and it spent its money on great new buildings,

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beautiful paintings and sculptures.

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This is the story of the greatest flowering of art in Venice's history.

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There seemed no end to what this city could achieve.

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But as the city's painters and architects became ever more daring and outrageous,

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Venice was to make many enemies,

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who would bring this spirit of great beauty and opulence

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to a crashing end.

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It all began with a mysterious arrival.

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In 1295, a man staggered into this courtyard.

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He wore torn, alien-looking clothes.

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It seemed he didn't belong in Venice.

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But he was coming back home.

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His name...

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was Marco Polo.

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And he had just returned after 24 years of travel

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through China and other strange and fantastic lands.

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With the bizarre clothes, the weird accent and the savage look,

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he had become a stranger to his own family.

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A great banquet was given to celebrate Marco Polo's return.

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At this feast, he was to reveal his discoveries,

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things that Europe had never dreamt of.

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Polo had returned with more than just jewels.

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He'd brought back knowledge of a new world that was to make Venice rich.

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He told of extraordinary spices from India,

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the finest quality of silk,

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gold and silver from Malabar

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and the astonishing riches of the Chinese emperor Kublai Khan,

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with his millions of ships,

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his millions of horses

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and millions of temples.

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Marco Polo became known as Marco Milione or simply Milione -

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Mr Millions - because the people of Venice didn't believe a word he said.

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To make fun of him,

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they even called this courtyard Il Milione.

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But these distant lands were truly as rich as he said

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and Venice would establish a unique network of trading routes to the East.

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The city would be the gateway between Europe and the Orient,

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bringing us huge power and riches.

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Venice was truly the centre of the world,

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and the place where the people of the East and West literally met

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was in the Rialto, Venice's trading centre.

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On a typical day,

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any time between the 11th and the 15th centuries,

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this place would have contained the richest mix of people to be found anywhere in the world.

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The Rialto market, with all the shops, stores, people -

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it felt like an eastern souk, almost a kasbah.

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And still it does.

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In this tiny area of Venice,

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Europe could sample the world's most exotic goods -

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strange fruits from Africa, perfumes from India,

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minerals and fabric dyes from Malaya

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and pepper, cloves and other spices from Arabia.

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More than a centre of trade, the Rialto was the banking centre of Venice.

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And Venice's banks were way ahead of their time.

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This bar is the site of the first Giro bank,

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the place where credit was born, where paper replaced gold,

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and the first ever bank loans were issued here.

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During the 12th and 13th centuries, this square was the financial centre of the world.

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While the rest of Europe languished in the feudal age of masters and serfs,

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Venetian bankers gave financial backing to a new class of merchant adventurers.

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It was to fuel a modern credit boom.

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The spirit of Marco Polo and the money of Banco Giro

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created men like my ancestor, Alvise da Mosto.

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Every great Venetian family had an explorer,

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and in my house we have a statue of ours.

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This is my great-great-great-grandfather, Alvise da Mosto.

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He was an explorer and at the age of 22,

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he discovered the Capo Verde Islands, off the coast of Africa,

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in the Atlantic Ocean.

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I'm 40, and with my little boat, I go around the lagoon.

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But this is the difference between me and him.

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Alvise da Mosto's incredible journey took him beyond the Christian world to pagan Africa.

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Trade would be the new religion.

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The explorer-merchants roamed from Jerusalem in the Holy Land to Muslim Egypt,

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from Beijing in China to Constantinople, the capital of Byzantium,

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the city we now call Istanbul.

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They travelled to make money, but they also brought back new ideas of art.

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This great building is the Fondaco dei Turchi.

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The word "fondaco" derives from the Arabic for trading post.

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Dating from the early 13th century,

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the building served as lodging for foreign traders and a warehouse for their goods.

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The tall arches were inspired by Byzantium.

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The layout, a central courtyard with lodgings above,

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was an idea borrowed from the East.

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Buildings like this would change the look of Venice for ever.

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But nothing is simple in Venice.

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Here, the Byzantine style of the East mixed with Western Gothic style of northern Europe

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and Venetian buildings became a strange, almost alien mixture.

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No city in the world looked like this.

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The elongated, round arch from the East

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merged with the Western Gothic arch,

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creating an elaborate new style,

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a unique architecture -

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Venetian Gothic.

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And it was this style that would stamp its identity

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on Venice's Grand Canal...

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..the city's greatest waterway.

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It stretches from the great basin of St Mark at one side of the city...

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..winding snake-like through the great trading district of the Rialto.

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This is the main artery of Venice.

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All canals lead into the Grand Canal.

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Throughout the 14th and 15th centuries,

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fabulous Venetian Gothic palaces rose up along the Grand Canal.

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It was here that Venice's great traders

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would show off their wealth and splendour.

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These palaces were all built for merchants

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and they would double as a place of work and a home. On the ground floor

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would be the warehouse space for merchandise

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and on the first floor would be the grand living quarters.

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But these palaces had new features which made them uniquely Venetian.

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Every palace had two very different entrances -

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one on the water and one on land.

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The land entrance was often small

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and lost down a dark back passage.

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By far the more important was the water entrance.

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Doubling as both a ceremonial entrance

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and the easiest place to unload merchandise,

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the Venetian water entrances were lavish shows of wealth and power.

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The canal facade was most definitely the front of the house.

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It had to impress everyone, from private visitors to business rivals.

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Think about it.

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Every one of these palaces was the headquarters of a family business.

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The facades were a way of representing success.

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Quite simply, the more money you had, the grander your facade.

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But, as Venice was inclined to show off its wealth more and more,

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even the back entrances came in for some extravagant treatment.

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This is the Scala del Bovolo,

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a sight famous all over the world.

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Not because of the palace, but because of the staircase.

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It's a work of art in itself.

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Land was scarce in Venice and buildings were crowded together.

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So light was vital.

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The early windows were made like bottle ends,

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the round discs held in place by lead.

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Venice pioneered the production of window glass,

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when other cities only had canvas or rags to keep out the wind and rain.

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Glass allowed the palazzos to shimmer and shine

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in the glory of the Venetian light reflecting off the canals.

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One palace, more than any other, represents this great period for Venice -

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the Ca d'Oro.

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The name means "the house of gold".

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And when it was first built,

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the facade was covered with glistening gold-leaf paint.

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The Venetians had started building their houses out of mud and straw.

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But now they were building them out of gold.

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Look how far Venice had come.

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The Ca d'Oro was designed by the architect brothers Giovanni and Bartolomei Bon

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and built during the 1420s for the grand Contarini family,

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one of the most respected families in Venice.

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They too traded in spices, fabric and dyes.

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This would have been their warehouse space.

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But what a warehouse!

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In the internal courtyard is a well of red marble from Verona,

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decorated with the figures of Charity, Justice and Fortitude,

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and an intricately carved Moorish-style staircase

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that shows us how Eastern-looking Venetian architecture could be.

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It's hard to imagine now, but to a visitor of the 15th century,

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the front of this palace might have seemed as if it was built by aliens.

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It was the greatest example of Venetian Gothic architecture,

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a style that was unique in the world.

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The crenellation around the roof is yet another brilliant marriage

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of Eastern and Western elements.

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The marble columns were brought from quarries in Greece and Verona

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and the bas-relief panels were looted from buildings in the far-eastern reaches

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of the Venetian empire.

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Ingredients may have come from far and wide.

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But this brilliant confection

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could only be found on the Grand Canal in Venice.

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Through the rise and rise of the merchant class,

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trade prospered and money flowed into Venice.

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Money for fine architecture was followed by money spent on fine art.

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Artists, like Giovanni and Gentile Bellini and Vittore Carpaccio,

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emerged as much sought-after men in the life of the city.

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And the Venetian authorities recognised art

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as another trade to be supported by organised guilds.

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This painting by Carpaccio

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shows life on the Grand Canal in the 15th century.

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The crowds pouring across the old wooden Rialto Bridge.

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Merchants swagger along the canal side

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with all the confidence of princes.

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The Grand Canal is teeming with life. Even on the rooftops,

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people hang their washing out to dry among the chimney pots.

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The city's confidence was founded on its empire and its trade routes.

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But something terrible was about to hit Venice.

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Turkish armies laid siege to Constantinople.

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The capital of Byzantium.

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For 250 years, this city had been key to Venetian prosperity.

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On the 29th of May 1453,

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Sultan Mehmet II's terrifying army of Turks

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marched into Constantinople and took the city.

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Venice had lost its most important imperial outpost.

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Now, the Islamic Ottoman empire dominated the East.

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If Venice was to retain any trading influence in Constantinople,

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the Venetians would have to make friends with the Turks.

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So who did Venice send to Constantinople?

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Not a soldier, not a sailor,

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not even a politician,

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but an artist.

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By the end of the 15th century,

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Venice knew that art was its most powerful asset.

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They sent the painter Gentile Bellini

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to win over Sultan Mehmet II.

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Gentile had just finished decorating the Doge's Palace.

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He had barely travelled beyond the Venetian lagoon,

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but he took with him the secret of Venetian art

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and the promise of painting a great portrait

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of the sultan himself.

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With its realism and psychological insight,

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this painting was a revelation at the court of the sultan.

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The picture bridged the divide between the Christian and Islamic worlds.

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Unlike any other major European trading power,

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Venice was happy to do business with the non-Christian world.

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It was behaviour condemned by the Pope.

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HE KNOCKS

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As we say in Venice,

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"Veneziani prima, poi Christiani."

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We are Venetian first and Christian second.

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Art and trade before faith.

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But if Venice's secular attitude allowed trade to flourish,

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the city knew better than to trust the increasingly expansionist Turks.

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So Venice would smile at the East,

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but be ready for a fight at any moment.

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This is the Arsenale - a temple to military and trading power.

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Venice's shipbuilding and weapons factory.

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The engine that ran the Venetian empire.

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It occupied the whole easternmost boundary of the city.

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This place was so important that the whole of Venice kept time

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according to work hours at the Arsenale.

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At sunrise every morning, the bell in the Campanile would ring out across the city

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and thousands of Venetians would make their way to the Arsenale.

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The bell is still known as la Marangona, the carpenter,

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named after the workers who had half an hour to get to the factory.

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Here, they worked every hour of daylight

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to ensure Venetian trade routes were never threatened.

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This place could produce 200 ships in a month.

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That's 50 ships in a week, seven per day.

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It was the first factory production line in the world.

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All of this in the second half of the 15th century,

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at a time when English carpenters took months just to build one ship.

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But something very strange, even wonderful, had happened at the Arsenale.

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Just to the left, on the southernmost water entrance,

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almost pushed to one side,

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is a truly revelatory moment in Venetian architecture.

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This is the land gate to the Arsenale,

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built in 1460.

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Its scale is modest, but its look is triumphant.

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It is the first classical structure in the city,

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its roots firmly in the ancient world of Greece and Rome.

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For now, this wonderful gateway would sit here alone...

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..out of time and out of place

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in this Gothic city.

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But on one fateful night...

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in 1514...

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..the opportunity to rebuild Venice was presented in the most terrifying way.

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On the 10th of January 1514,

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Venice burned.

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But how could this be?

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Fighting fires in Venice should be easy.

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There is water everywhere.

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Alas, Venice was in the grip of winter.

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The canals were frozen solid.

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The city burned for 24 hours.

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The whole of the Rialto, Venice's commercial centre, was destroyed.

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This was the great fire of Venice, a tragedy.

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But also a great opportunity.

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They would have to rebuild, and there was a choice - Gothic or classical.

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And the choice was classical.

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Out of the tragedy would come triumphalism

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and one of its most famous monuments, the Rialto Bridge.

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The old wooden bridge had to be replaced.

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Now, this important thoroughfare,

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linking the commercial heart of the Rialto to the political heart of San Marco

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would be a monument to permanence and power.

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An architectural competition was held,

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attracting the best Italian architects.

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Even Michelangelo entered.

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But Venice, being Venice, would choose one of its own

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to build the emblem of the new age.

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Michelangelo's design was thrown out

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and the job was given to a little-regarded architect

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who'd done some repair work for the Doge -

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Antonio da Ponte.

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Just like everything else in Venice, the design was fuelled by trade.

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With the shops that lined it,

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the bridge became an extension of the Rialto market itself.

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The winning design had one, giant, single span

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of over 90 feet across the canal.

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Above it, a classical arcade of finest white marble from Istria,

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meeting at the middle in a great arch.

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The enormous weight of the bridge

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is supported by more than 12,000 wooden stakes,

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sunk into the shifting ground on either side.

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From afar, the Rialto Bridge appears so gentle,

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so light.

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But the nearer you go, you feel the power of the stones.

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When they built it, they had to strengthen both sides for 100 metres.

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It's incredible.

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After 500 years, it's still like the first day. It's perfect.

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It's strange, but, er...

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it's always an emotion to pass under.

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Like it was the first time.

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Oh-oh!

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And after 500 years, it's still perfect.

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The same stones.

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The angels on the sides.

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Because the bridge is something against nature.

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And you have to put yourself in the angels' hands.

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For da Ponte, it was over.

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The Rialto Bridge, his one monument to posterity.

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But already a battle had begun for the architectural soul of Venice.

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Just as Venice had made the Gothic its own, so it would reinterpret classicism.

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It would be a battle of architects,

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but whose classicism will win?

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This is Jacopo Sansovino,

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a charismatic man who made his buildings rich and ornate.

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This is Andrea Palladio.

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He was clever, but he knew it.

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His designs were monumental.

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The story of their rivalry would take Venice to new heights of beauty,

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but it would come at a difficult time for the republic.

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Let me explain.

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The Republic of Venice was losing power.

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It needed to feel solid, lusting, impenetrable,

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so Sansovino and Palladio were trying to rebuild it as a great ancient city.

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And classical architecture gave the feeling

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of older insecurity to Venice.

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Ciao!

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Andrea Palladio was a brilliant scholar of ancient architecture.

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But his designs were too bold for the conservative Venetians.

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Palladio was frequently rejected in favour of Jacopo Sansovino,

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an outgoing, healthy-living man, who was fond of cucumbers.

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With his charms, Sansovino had quickly found favour with the Venetian Establishment.

0:30:210:30:28

Sansovino was successful, popular and well connected.

0:30:280:30:33

By 1529, he was employed as the superintendent of works

0:30:330:30:39

for St Mark's Square and the Doge's Palace...

0:30:390:30:42

..the chief architect of Venice.

0:30:450:30:48

His buildings were certainly bold.

0:30:480:30:51

But their elaborate facades seemed to the authorities

0:30:510:30:55

to complement the older Venetian Gothic.

0:30:550:30:59

It looked as though Palladio's cause was hopeless,

0:31:020:31:06

but fate - or incompetence - would intervene.

0:31:060:31:12

While Palladio struggled to get work in Venice,

0:31:120:31:15

Sansovino started a building that would dominate his life.

0:31:150:31:20

It would make him imprisoned and bankrupt, but, at the end, it was a triumph.

0:31:200:31:25

It was the Library of St Mark.

0:31:250:31:28

This is classicism following the rules of Ancient Rome,

0:31:370:31:41

with its fine Doric arcade below

0:31:410:31:44

and ionic upper story.

0:31:440:31:46

But it is classicism with a Venetian flourish,

0:31:490:31:53

hailed in the city as the richest, most ornate building since antiquity.

0:31:530:32:00

It's as though Sansovino was playing to his audience.

0:32:000:32:05

Confident of Venice's love of ornate decoration,

0:32:050:32:10

he covered the building with fine detail, putting the frieze and graceful figures on the balustrade.

0:32:100:32:18

But Sansovino had got carried away.

0:32:240:32:27

On the 18th of December 1545, disaster struck.

0:32:290:32:33

The ground-floor vault over the main hall collapsed,

0:32:330:32:38

bringing down the floor above it.

0:32:380:32:41

Sansovino was thrown into jail.

0:32:440:32:47

Sansovino had fallen from grace -

0:32:570:32:59

from superstar architect to common criminal.

0:32:590:33:03

He had blamed the collapse of the building on frost

0:33:030:33:08

and the gunfire from a nearby ship,

0:33:080:33:10

but the authorities held him personally responsible.

0:33:100:33:16

Sansovino was made to pay for the rebuilding himself.

0:33:160:33:20

It took him 25 years.

0:33:200:33:23

At last, the time had come for the radical vision of Andrea Palladio.

0:33:350:33:41

This is the church of San Francesco della Vigna.

0:33:560:34:00

The interior was designed by Sansovino,

0:34:000:34:04

but the exterior was given to Andrea Palladio,

0:34:040:34:08

the new star of Venetian architecture.

0:34:080:34:12

Quite simply, Palladio has taken all Sansovino has done,

0:34:120:34:18

and he made it bigger and bolder.

0:34:180:34:22

This building, more than any other,

0:34:290:34:31

signalled the fall of Sansovino and the rise of Palladio.

0:34:310:34:36

Palladio brought something entirely new to Venice.

0:34:390:34:43

He took the classicism of Rome and made it even greater.

0:34:460:34:51

His buildings felt as though they would last forever,

0:34:510:34:57

and whatever their size,

0:34:570:34:59

their structures seemed enormous.

0:34:590:35:02

But perhaps Palladio's greatest work

0:35:090:35:12

is the monastery and church of San Giorgio Maggiore.

0:35:120:35:17

When this was built,

0:35:230:35:25

it shocked and astonished the Venetians.

0:35:250:35:29

The huge columns, the triangular porticos were like nothing they had ever seen,

0:35:290:35:36

and even if they didn't like it,

0:35:360:35:39

it would have turned their heads, and screamed, "Look at me!"

0:35:390:35:44

Inside, Palladio even incorporates his love of circular, ancient temples

0:35:580:36:04

by planning the church's shape round a huge dome,

0:36:040:36:09

placed exactly at the centre of the building.

0:36:090:36:13

With this and other churches in Venice,

0:36:400:36:44

Palladio was at last hailed as the architectural genius of the age.

0:36:440:36:50

Palladio's great triumphs

0:37:000:37:03

allowed Venetians to take refuge in the look of their city,

0:37:030:37:07

but they could not master reality.

0:37:070:37:09

The foundations of Venice's success were crumbling away.

0:37:090:37:13

In 1497, the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama

0:37:130:37:19

had rounded the Cape of Good Hope at the tip of Africa.

0:37:190:37:23

It would change the trading map of the world.

0:37:230:37:26

It created a new trade route by ship to the East -

0:37:260:37:32

to India, China and Central Asia.

0:37:320:37:35

A faster and a cheaper route.

0:37:350:37:37

A route that bypassed Venice.

0:37:370:37:40

Venice had been the gateway to the East,

0:37:420:37:46

but the trade routes were largely across land.

0:37:460:37:49

Often, the terrain was dangerous and difficult,

0:37:490:37:53

and a camel train could only carry a fraction of the goods

0:37:530:37:57

that could go by ship.

0:37:570:37:59

The news of Vasco da Gama's discovery travelled fast.

0:37:590:38:04

There was now little point in European traders using Venice as a stopoff,

0:38:060:38:12

or even an intermediary trading post.

0:38:120:38:16

When the news hit the Rialto,

0:38:190:38:21

banks closed overnight.

0:38:210:38:24

This was a total nightmare.

0:38:240:38:27

Almost overnight, Venice was penniless.

0:38:270:38:31

Facing ruin.

0:38:310:38:33

They really had to do something to survive,

0:38:330:38:36

but what they did shocked the rest of the Christian world.

0:38:360:38:41

The Jews were reviled by the Catholic Church,

0:38:430:38:47

but at a time when much of Europe was expelling them from its cities,

0:38:470:38:52

Venice saw the Jews as great traders and moneymakers.

0:38:520:38:57

Like the Venetians themselves,

0:38:570:39:00

their trading contacts spread far and wide.

0:39:000:39:04

In 1516, Venice set up a Jewish quarter in the city.

0:39:040:39:08

Before long, Jews arrived from all over Europe.

0:39:080:39:13

They brought money, expertise and trading contacts.

0:39:130:39:18

This is where they had to live -

0:39:180:39:20

an island at the heart of Venice.

0:39:200:39:24

On this island there was an old forge,

0:39:240:39:27

and the Venetian word for the forge was "getto".

0:39:270:39:31

This was the first Jewish ghetto in the world.

0:39:310:39:35

It gave its name to the concept of captivity and cruelty that existed now.

0:39:350:39:42

And the marks of the gates are still here.

0:39:420:39:45

Look.

0:39:450:39:47

The Jews were heavily taxed,

0:39:500:39:53

forced to wear yellow hats as a mark of distinction,

0:39:530:39:57

and the gates were locked at nightfall.

0:39:570:40:00

The guards on the gates were Christians,

0:40:000:40:03

paid for by the Jews.

0:40:030:40:06

Yet, despite their treatment,

0:40:060:40:08

Venice's Jewish population flourished,

0:40:080:40:12

and life was better in Venice than just about anywhere else in Europe.

0:40:120:40:17

Venetian Jews were moneylenders,

0:40:170:40:20

pawnbrokers, merchants, doctors, and dealers in second-hand goods.

0:40:200:40:25

The ghetto is the place you still come in Venice for second-hand goods.

0:40:420:40:48

Arrivederci!

0:41:090:41:12

As the Jewish community expanded,

0:41:140:41:16

the ghetto grew...upwards.

0:41:160:41:19

These houses are higher than most Venetian houses,

0:41:190:41:24

as more floors were added to accommodate more people.

0:41:240:41:28

The windows are so close together

0:41:280:41:31

because the ceilings are so low.

0:41:310:41:34

Many of the buildings were linked internally by passages and staircases,

0:41:350:41:42

and contain some of Venice's great hidden treasures.

0:41:420:41:46

This is one of four synagogues inside the houses of the ghetto.

0:41:460:41:51

It is like no other synagogue in the world.

0:41:510:41:56

Jewish architects were forbidden in Venice,

0:41:580:42:01

so this synagogue was built by a Venetian.

0:42:010:42:05

And you can tell.

0:42:050:42:08

It is typical of the Venetian love of show and wealth,

0:42:080:42:12

and it feels...more like a theatre

0:42:120:42:16

than a place of worship.

0:42:160:42:19

After Vasco da Gama's dramatic discovery,

0:42:220:42:25

Venice's deal with the Jews brought the city back from the brink of disaster,

0:42:250:42:32

but once again, it rocked Venice's relations with the Catholic Church.

0:42:320:42:38

As Venice turned its back on the Church,

0:42:380:42:41

so did its artists.

0:42:410:42:43

Once saucy young painter took Venetian painting

0:42:430:42:47

to a new level of beauty,

0:42:470:42:50

sexuality and ungodly eroticism.

0:42:500:42:53

His name was Tiziano Vecellio.

0:42:570:42:59

In his lifetime, he was to become Venice's most famous artist,

0:42:590:43:05

but his fate

0:43:050:43:07

would be horribly linked to that of the city.

0:43:070:43:11

We know him by the name Titian.

0:43:110:43:14

This is where Titian lived.

0:43:170:43:20

His studio was at the end of the garden.

0:43:250:43:28

As his fame grew, he entertained scholars,

0:43:280:43:32

artists and many of the most beautiful women in Venice.

0:43:320:43:36

Titian set a new style for the artist -

0:43:390:43:43

no longer subservient to religion and the Church.

0:43:430:43:47

His friends were free-thinking painters,

0:43:470:43:50

poets and philosophers.

0:43:500:43:53

People like Veronese, the poet Aretino

0:43:530:43:57

and the musician, Irene da Spilimbergo.

0:43:570:44:00

With Titian's circle, the idea of the artist as a romantic figure was born.

0:44:020:44:08

Someone who enjoyed life as an individual, free of the dictates of a rich patron.

0:44:090:44:15

Titian was a Venetian,

0:44:190:44:22

and like all of us Venetians, trade was in his blood.

0:44:220:44:26

He started to see the financial possibilities of his paintings.

0:44:260:44:31

Painterly mythologies, allegories and portraits flowed from his studio,

0:44:340:44:40

all in his distinctive style.

0:44:400:44:42

He had taken the realistic brush stroke of the Florentine Renaissance artists

0:44:440:44:50

and given it a softer, more expressive edge.

0:44:500:44:55

Royals and noblemen from all over the world

0:44:580:45:01

sent agents to Venice to buy Titian's paintings.

0:45:010:45:06

Kings and princes vied with each other

0:45:060:45:09

to be painted by the great man,

0:45:090:45:12

and Titian got rich on the proceeds.

0:45:120:45:15

Now art was a commodity to be traded in,

0:45:170:45:21

to get rich on.

0:45:210:45:24

It was fast becoming Venice's most important export.

0:45:240:45:28

And among Titian's hundreds of sitters

0:45:330:45:37

were the beautiful women of Venice.

0:45:370:45:40

It was in the representations of these women as Venus

0:45:400:45:45

that Titian was to take art and Venice

0:45:450:45:48

to a deeply immoral place

0:45:480:45:51

it had never been before.

0:45:510:45:54

Like his portraits, his nudes celebrate life in a new, secular way.

0:45:540:46:00

His bodies are real.

0:46:030:46:05

They have a feeling of real flesh,

0:46:050:46:07

of carnale.

0:46:070:46:09

One painting more than any shows the spirit of the age.

0:46:110:46:16

Titian had been commissioned by the Duke of Urbino's son

0:46:160:46:21

to paint an image of Venus.

0:46:210:46:23

This was the result of the commission -

0:46:230:46:27

the Venus Of Urbino.

0:46:270:46:29

The nude had appeared in art for many centuries before,

0:46:290:46:35

and the nudes of the Renaissance

0:46:350:46:37

had become erotic icons,

0:46:370:46:39

but there was something in the figures that was chaste.

0:46:390:46:44

They closed their eyes or looked away from the viewer,

0:46:440:46:48

but the Venus Of Urbino was different.

0:46:480:46:52

She looked straight at the viewer.

0:46:520:46:55

In an earlier painting by Titian's teacher, Giorgione,

0:46:550:46:59

The Goddess Of Love touches herself,

0:46:590:47:02

but her eyes are closed.

0:47:020:47:05

She's in her own world.

0:47:050:47:08

As her hand creeps between her legs, acknowledging her sex,

0:47:130:47:17

Titian makes Venus look straight at us.

0:47:170:47:21

That is what made this the most shocking and astonishing picture of its time.

0:47:210:47:27

No other nude had ever stared out at the viewer.

0:47:270:47:33

CHURCH BELL TOLLS

0:47:330:47:35

Venice's relationship with the Catholic Church

0:47:370:47:42

had already been taken to the limit,

0:47:420:47:45

but now Titian and a new group of artists went too far with their unchristian art.

0:47:450:47:50

The Church was already unhappy about Titian's seductive painting,

0:47:500:47:56

The Assumption Of The Virgin, in the Frari church.

0:47:560:47:59

But the paintings of Titian's friend Paolo Veronese

0:48:020:48:07

scandalised the authorities.

0:48:070:48:09

This is the church of St Sebastian,

0:48:090:48:12

almost entirely decorated by Veronese.

0:48:120:48:16

His versions of traditional Christian scenes were scandalously modern.

0:48:160:48:20

Veronese makes no effort

0:48:200:48:23

to depict religious scenes

0:48:230:48:26

in their traditional surroundings.

0:48:260:48:28

He moved historical figures from one scene to another, with little respect for religious history.

0:48:280:48:35

He introduces humorous and irreverent details.

0:48:350:48:39

In this painting, The Feast At Cana,

0:48:410:48:44

he even had the audacity

0:48:440:48:46

to portray Venetian painters as the musicians entertaining Christ.

0:48:460:48:51

The bearded bass viola player on the right, wearing red, is Titian.

0:48:510:48:57

The musician in white, to the left, is Veronese himself.

0:48:570:49:03

Veronese was brilliant, and the Church wanted brilliant paintings,

0:49:030:49:07

but he was teasing them with his irreverent work,

0:49:070:49:12

and when he was commissioned to paint The Last Supper in 1573,

0:49:120:49:17

he pushed the tolerance of the Catholic Church one step too far.

0:49:170:49:22

Veronese's painting of The Last Supper

0:49:270:49:30

was considered deeply blasphemous,

0:49:300:49:33

and he incurred the wrath of the Vatican secret police - the Inquisition.

0:49:330:49:40

The Church condemned the painting for showing buffoons,

0:49:400:49:45

drunkards, dwarves

0:49:450:49:48

and similar vulgarities.

0:49:480:49:50

Veronese was forced to change the name and subject of the picture

0:49:520:49:57

to The Feast At The House Of Levi.

0:49:570:50:01

But the Venetian artists wouldn't stop breaking Catholic laws.

0:50:060:50:11

The poet Aretino defied the Pope

0:50:110:50:15

by publishing a set of pornographic prints

0:50:150:50:19

already banned by the Vatican.

0:50:190:50:21

Titian's friend Aretino wrote a sonnet

0:50:230:50:27

to accompany each image.

0:50:270:50:30

These artists were sacrilegious,

0:51:090:51:12

but they saw their art as more important than anything else.

0:51:120:51:17

Ultimately, Venice would pay the price.

0:51:170:51:21

During this golden age, Venice committed ungodly acts.

0:51:220:51:27

As the city's population reached an all-time high,

0:51:270:51:31

Titian and his friends might have gone too far.

0:51:310:51:34

And on the evening of the 25th of June of 1575,

0:51:380:51:42

it seemed that the vengeance of the most biblical kind

0:51:420:51:47

was delivered upon the city...

0:51:470:51:50

..and this most famous artist.

0:51:520:51:54

Titian and Venice were struck by the plague.

0:51:560:52:00

The disease spread like wildfire through the city

0:52:000:52:06

and, for the Venetians, it seemed like a punishment from God,

0:52:060:52:10

or worse - a punishment from God, ordered by the Pope.

0:52:100:52:15

The symptoms were severe chills, vomiting up blood,

0:52:160:52:21

and huge boils that would form a black crust when they burst.

0:52:210:52:27

If you were lucky, you died within the day.

0:52:270:52:32

If you were unlucky, you might live on in agony for a week.

0:52:330:52:39

Venetian plague doctors patrolled the alleys and canals

0:52:430:52:49

with capes and snout-nosed masks, full of pepper for protection.

0:52:490:52:54

The plague has had a massive impact on the history of Venice.

0:52:580:53:03

This is a traveller's city,

0:53:030:53:06

and disease has travelled to and from it many times.

0:53:060:53:10

But it was from the East that it first came.

0:53:100:53:15

The route that brought Venice its riches

0:53:150:53:18

would also be the route that brought so much death.

0:53:180:53:22

Victims were dying by the hundreds every day.

0:53:360:53:40

Criminals were freed from the city's prisons

0:53:400:53:46

to deal with the corpses and ferry the ill.

0:53:460:53:50

And with the city overflowing with the dead,

0:53:570:54:02

there was only one place to take them -

0:54:020:54:05

the lagoon.

0:54:050:54:07

All around would be death -

0:54:130:54:15

galleys full of dying people, guarded by warships

0:54:150:54:20

to make sure none escaped.

0:54:200:54:23

Those who did try to escape will be hanged over the water.

0:54:260:54:31

This was the victims' destination -

0:54:320:54:35

the old plague hospital of Lazzaretto Vecchio.

0:54:350:54:40

The island is now home to no-one but a pack of stray dogs,

0:54:440:54:49

wild, like the souls of the dead.

0:54:490:54:52

Someone unfortunate enough to experience this hell wrote about what he saw.

0:55:030:55:10

The stench was unbearable,

0:55:110:55:14

the air filled with the groans and pained sighs of the dying,

0:55:140:55:18

the smoke rising from the burned bodies of the dead...

0:55:180:55:24

The sick were placed three or four to a bed.

0:55:250:55:29

In agony, unable to speak from the pain they were suffering, they were thrown onto carts

0:55:310:55:37

piled up with corpses.

0:55:370:55:39

For two years they were brought here,

0:55:420:55:45

and they died in their thousands.

0:55:450:55:49

Their tens of thousands.

0:55:490:55:52

Most of the bodies were burned here.

0:55:540:55:57

Only the dead of the noble families were taken away,

0:55:580:56:02

and even they didn't get any marked graves.

0:56:020:56:08

But in the deeper reaches of the lagoon

0:56:110:56:15

lies Venice's true island of the dead.

0:56:150:56:20

The plague dead of Venice's noble families

0:56:260:56:30

were taken to the island of Santaliano.

0:56:300:56:33

Here, they were not burned,

0:56:330:56:36

but buried in shallow mass graves,

0:56:360:56:39

where they lie to this day.

0:56:390:56:42

The only victim to get a marked grave was Titian himself.

0:56:500:56:54

On this island lie the remains of all the other nobles who died.

0:56:580:57:03

Fragments of human bones everywhere.

0:57:090:57:13

We will never know who these people were.

0:57:150:57:19

Maybe friends of our ancestors...

0:57:210:57:24

A child's that's lost the chance of life...

0:57:300:57:34

Maybe death was the end of sufferance.

0:57:390:57:43

Who knows.

0:57:430:57:45

At the height of the plague, 51,000 had died -

0:58:010:58:06

almost a third of the population of Venice.

0:58:060:58:10

From her place at the centre of the world,

0:58:160:58:19

Venice had fallen.

0:58:190:58:22

Now she was a city to avoid.

0:58:220:58:24

It seemed like it was the end for Venice,

0:58:260:58:31

but the city would make a comeback.

0:58:310:58:34

A comeback of the most surprising kind.

0:58:340:58:37

Subtitles by Roger Young and Susan Mason, BBC Broadcast 2004

0:59:070:59:13

E-mail us at [email protected]

0:59:130:59:16

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