Episode 2 Ar Scáth na Sléibhte


Episode 2

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-Hello, Margaret, I'm delighted to be here.

-Great to have you.

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-Thank you very much. Look at the view you've got here.

-Yes, it's very nice.

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Stunning, isn't it?

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Cuilcagh Mountain, it dominates the entire landscape.

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Cuilcagh Mountain is obviously important to you, then.

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You're in this landscape of Cuilcagh.

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Well, I'm in the shadow of Cuilcagh.

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It's a backdrop to everything that we do.

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Every photograph that was taken, Cuilcagh was always in it

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because we couldn't get rid of it and we didn't want to get rid of it.

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It was our meteorological compass always when we were young

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because the first place the rain arrives

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is on the western side of Cuilcagh Mountain.

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That's the first place the rain arrives

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and then I know that it will soon be, in 15 minutes, it'll be here.

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-An early warning, as it were.

-An early warning.

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And it's something that never changes.

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I just feel it's just unscathed, it's a perfect mountain,

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as far as I'm concerned,

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and mountain people, like border people and island people,

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are that bit different because we have that as our security.

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All the time we've been having this wonderful conversation,

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it's been difficult

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because the most enticing smell is coming out of your cottage.

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Come on in and get some of my home-made bread.

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-I would love to.

-Come on ahead.

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-Here we are.

-Thank you very much. No point in sparing the butter.

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-No, you need loads of butter on everything.

-You do.

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None of those modern sensibilities!

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The last time I sat in a house like this was 60-odd years ago

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in Donegal - a house that's beautiful and comfortable,

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but not connected to 20th century civilisation.

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-Would that be a true description of where we are?

-Yes, that's true.

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We're self-sufficient in the sense

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that I carry my water from the spring well.

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I have oil lamps for my light.

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-No electricity?

-No electricity, no.

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It can't be an easy way of life, is it?

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If you're doing it for 73 years, you get sort of used to it.

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The compensations are... You couldn't name them.

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The solitude, your roots in society, your feeling of who you are,

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your sense of identity, all those things

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make up for going down to carry up a couple of buckets of water.

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You've been here for 70-odd years.

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It's been in your family prior to that.

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My grandfather bought the house from his cousins

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who were emigrating to America in 1887.

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The deed's on the wall, actually, over there, drawn up on pig skin,

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and they bought the house,

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I think it was £30 10s 6d the whole thing cost.

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It's lovely. I'm aware of my roots here, I'm aware of who I am.

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The rootedness that you're explaining now and your family

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and the rootedness of the landscape, the rootedness of Cuilcagh,

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there's a kind of a correlation there.

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Of course because you're walking on hallowed ground.

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You're walking in their footprints.

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They had to go to the well, they had to look down at Cuilcagh Mountain,

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they had to hump bags of turf and creels of turf

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and you realise what you have and you hold on to it.

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You're a lucky woman to be here

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and in an environment, in a snug, comfortable...

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I don't mean physically comfortable, I mean mentally comfortable.

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Yes, mentally comfortable. Being happy with yourself.

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-I think it's great.

-And at the lot that's been levelled out to you.

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I think you've done very well.

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-This is some hallway, isn't it?

-Yes, it is.

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Basil, this is a fine big house. What's its history?

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Well, it was established in the 1700s by Lord Enniskillen,

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which was then resident in Enniskillen.

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It got its name from his first wife, which was Florence,

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hence Florence Court.

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When he picked this site, did he pick it well?

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He did. It's a lovely setting because you've Cuilcagh Mountain,

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Benaughlin in the background.

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You have Lough Erne in the distance in the front.

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Just a lovely landscape round it.

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There's not much more you could do for a nice setting than this.

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This would have been the original kitchen here.

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It's a strange kind of roof, like an umbrella-type roof.

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It is a strange roof, yeah.

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This stove was recently refurbished last year.

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It went across to England to get pieces made for it.

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-Is that the original stove?

-It is the original, yes.

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-And can it be fired up?

-Yes, it does.

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-It'll be fired here on some of the visitor days.

-Right.

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-It works perfect.

-But is this original?

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-These are original here, yeah.

-Right.

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And this was the place where they cut the meat here.

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So meat was cut there and vegetables

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and stuff would have been in this area.

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And the baking and stuff would have been done from there, too.

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-Ah, if these tables could talk!

-Yeah, they'd tell some stories.

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Basil, your personal connection with this place goes way back, doesn't it?

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My childhood days.

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A number of us used it as a play area when we were kids.

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We just came across the road, cos I lived on the other side.

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We used to pinch the strawberries

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and so on and so forth out of the walled garden.

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You would have got them if you'd asked,

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but they were nicer when you pinched them.

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-Of course!

-They tasted better.

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It didn't stop you coming back later on, then,

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to work in the estate, did it?

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No, it didn't, no, but I started to volunteer in 1976.

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When you volunteered as what? What were you doing?

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Well, at that time, there was quite a few workmen here

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and I would have put hammers and spades and shovels

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and that for the workmen here at that time

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and maybe repair a blade on a lawnmower or something.

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That would have been... You didn't charge for it.

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Are you the only volunteer?

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No, no, I think we've something around 150 volunteers in Fermanagh

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between the three properties and they do quite a lot of work.

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And the fact that you've been volunteering here for 40 years now,

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does that give you any status among the volunteers?

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No! It does not.

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So, first of all, to welcome you all here

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to the Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark...

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So, just behind us here now, you've got Cuilcagh Mountain,

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where the park obviously takes its name from.

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This is the highest point in County Fermanagh.

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It's about 667 metres in height.

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If you take a look over here to your left-hand side,

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you'll see examples of some of the peat dams.

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This is one of over 1,200 dams

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that were actually constructed

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in this area of the mountain in front of you.

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