Mystical West A Picture of Britain


Mystical West

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My journey through the British Isles is taking me to places that have inspired

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some of our greatest artists.

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I'm heading for Wales and the West Country.

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To the ancient monuments of Salisbury Plain.

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The heathlands of Dorset.

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The majestic mountains of Snowdonia.

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And the seas around our far western shores.

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This is a place steeped in Celtic history and mythology,

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a place of prehistoric kingdoms, of ancient ruins,

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the legendary home of King Arthur's Camelot.

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A place with a hint of the pagan just beneath the surface.

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This is the landscape of Britain's mystical West.

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It's a wonderful moment,

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breaking out onto Salisbury Plain, this great expanse.

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All the stress of the city gone,

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the air feels fresher, the skies are bigger,

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and then, in the far distance, you spot the gateway to the West,

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the magical circle of Stonehenge.

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Stonehenge is one of Britain's great mysteries.

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We don't know for certain who built it,

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how they moved these massive stones, or why.

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We do know it's been here for about 4,000 years,

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the relic of a lost civilisation.

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200 years ago, long before the invention of photography,

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artists provided the popular images of the great beauty sights.

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And professional painters vied with each other for success.

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Interestingly, Stonehenge had not yet had a great picture done of it.

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In a sense, it was up for grabs.

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The painters who took on this challenge were William Turner and John Constable.

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Both came on expeditions here in the early 19th century.

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Turner was the first to produce a finished work.

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Turner painted a watercolour here which became nothing short of a sensation.

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It was reproduced as an engraving which became a best-seller throughout Britain.

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What Turner had done was create a powerful image of Stonehenge

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which entranced the British public.

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Turner paints an epic moment in the middle of a storm.

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A flock of sheep is scattered.

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Several appear to have been felled by lightning.

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The shepherd has been struck down too,

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and his dog howls at the elements.

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Turner's painting offered a daunting challenge to John Constable.

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Much of his career had been spent in the shadow of the great Turner.

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Here was an opportunity to assert himself.

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He turned to a pencil sketch he'd made in 1820

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and he used this as a starting point for a major work.

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Constable paints Stonehenge after the storm has passed,

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the ancient stones illuminated by a double rainbow.

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Constable had successfully vied with Turner

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and shown the confidence of a painter at the height of his powers.

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After years of struggle, Constable was by now accepted as one of the great artists of the age.

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And the painting he did, based on that sketch of 1820,

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has become the defining image of Stonehenge.

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South-west of Stonehenge, towards the coast,

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is the birthplace of the writer Thomas Hardy.

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In novels like Tess Of The D'Urbevilles and Far From The Madding Crowd,

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Hardy captures the power of landscape over our lives.

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This is the cottage where Thomas Hardy was born. In the middle window was the bedroom.

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He was one of four children, the son of a stonemason.

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He used to walk three miles to school in Dorchester, so quite a humble background.

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But this cottage is set in the most glorious Dorset countryside,

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which he made so famous in his books.

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Hardy turned his native Dorset

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into a fictional land called Wessex,

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the setting for passionate love stories and tragedies.

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There are two sides to Hardy country.

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The ordered world of man -

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towns, villages,

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the cultivated fields.

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And then there's the untamed wilderness of Egdon Heath.

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This is where so many of his characters met their destiny,

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where they pursued their illicit love affairs,

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where they battled with the elements,

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where some of them came to die as outcasts.

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For Hardy, Egdon Heath is almost at the centre of the world.

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Everything around it changed - the people, the villages, the fields.

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He wrote that civilisation was its enemy.

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"The storm was its lover

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"and the wind its friend.

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"It was at present a place perfectly accordant with Man's nature.

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"Neither ghastly, hateful, nor ugly,

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"neither commonplace, unmeaning, nor tame.

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"But, like man, slighted and enduring.

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"It had a lonely face, suggesting tragical possibilities."

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You can see why Hardy loved this place so much.

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It's interesting that his bad characters always hate the heath.

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The characters that he admires always love it.

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How much of Hardy's heath is left?

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Approximately only 20% of what would have been here, or in England...

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-in, um...in Hardy's time.

-A hundred years or so?

-Yeah.

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In Hardy, people die of adder bites, for instance, on this heath.

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-Has it still got snakes here?

-Yeah, there are three types of snake here.

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-Three?

-Yeah. There's adders, grass snake and smooth snake.

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And you keep tabs on them by...?

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We've put tins down. That's the best way of monitoring them.

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Um...then...as the tins heat up,

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as they're cold-blooded,

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they will heat up underneath, so it's a good way of spotting them.

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-Just a bit of corrugated iron?

-Yeah, just like this.

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-And there we have a smooth snake.

-Oh, yes.

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It's very, very smooth.

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Is it very rare?

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Very, very rare. The rarest snake in Britain,

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only found on the heaths.

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Hardy knew his heath was losing its battle against the forces of civilisation.

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Today, little of it remains.

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Hardy's novels are a lament for a landscape and a way of life

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that was disappearing.

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The light up here on these Dorset hills by the sea is quite astonishing!

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Look at this field of corn - almost silver.

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It's partly that the wind and the air is so clean,

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because the wind's blowing across from the south-west.

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It's partly, I think, the huge mirror of the sea, of the English Channel out there,

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which throws the light back up. It makes it completely magical.

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The artist David Inshaw has captured the magical light of this part of the country.

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This painting was an instant hit when it first appeared.

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When the artist revealed that he was in love

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with BOTH the women playing badminton,

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it took on an air of mystery.

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Inshaw said his passion led him to paint them

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"blessed by the sun in the clear early morning air".

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But there's something slightly eerie, ghostlike, about the scene.

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The village of Little Bredy is the setting of another of Inshaw's paintings.

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It captures the familiar scene of a game of village cricket.

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SOUNDS OF CRICKET BEING PLAYED

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-Very good innings!

-Thank you very much.

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What led you to paint this scene?

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Well, it was a lot of circumstances, really.

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I originally came here late one evening,

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about 35 years ago,

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and the sun was setting and there was nobody about

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and I just sat in the pavilion and watched the sun set,

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and just enjoyed it - it was a magical place.

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I didn't see anybody...

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Is there something about...

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playing cricket in this scenery

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-that makes it different for you?

-Yeah, it is really,

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because when the bowler's bowling you ARE focused on that moment when the ball comes towards you.

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It does enforce this particular kind of landscape

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which is totally magical, especially on an evening like this,

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with the long shadows and so on.

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You see the landscape and the countryside because you're hitting this ball!

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-Does that make sense?

-No!

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-Not to me! If it makes sense to you, that's fine.

-I don't know!

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SPEECH DROWNED BY MUSIC

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THEY CHATTER

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Glastonbury in Somerset.

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For almost 1,000 years this town has been a place of pilgrimage

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for those seeking the legend of King Arthur, Camelot and the Holy Grail.

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We don't actually know who King Arthur is.

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The likeliest candidate is that he was a 6th-century Celtic warrior,

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who fought a number of successful battles against the Anglo-Saxons.

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But legend has transformed him into this great king who sleeps in the isle of Avalon,

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waiting for the moment when he'll rise up and come to our aid at our hour of need.

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Until that hour of need comes,

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the best chance of finding him is here, at Glastonbury Abbey.

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And this is the supposed site of Arthur's tomb.

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His bones and that of his wife were found outside the walls,

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brought in here by the monks,

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authenticated by them in the 12th century.

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And ever since, this has been a site of pilgrimage.

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In fact, Arthur's death has become almost a national fixation.

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The story of Arthur's death,

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and with it the end of an age of honour and chivalry,

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has fascinated artists for centuries.

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Edward Burne-Jones,

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one of the most popular painters of the Victorian era,

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returned again and again to Arthurian legend.

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In 1881, Burne-Jones began a 20-foot wide painting of King Arthur.

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He was still working on it when he died 17 years later.

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The king is shown sleeping in Avalon,

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attended by beautiful young women,

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patiently waiting for him to awake and save these islands.

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Burne-Jones's obsession with King Arthur

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may have arisen from the fact that he felt a sort of identification with him,

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as though some of Arthur's nobility was present in his own life.

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Burne-Jones was one of the great figures of Victorian painting,

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a man of immense fame, and now, in his declining years,

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his painting, the popularity of it, slightly fading.

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And so he starts painting this enormous picture of King Arthur,

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and works obsessively at it.

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On the night of his death,

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he played dominoes with his wife, she read to him because his eyesight was going,

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and then he went to bed, and he composed himself on his bed,

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in exactly the same position as he was painting King Arthur -

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on a slightly raised pillow, with his head a bit to one side.

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And a few hours later, he died.

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I never thought I'd find myself, in the middle of the night,

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trampling down a field of barley.

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But then, strange things happen in the mystical West.

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-So, tomorrow, people will find this...

-They'll fly over it, probably tomorrow.

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And they'll think it was made by little green men from Mars.

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They'll think what they want to think, that's what we want them to do.

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We want them to, we want them to wonder.

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For you, what's the point of it, what's the excitement?

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Sometimes we see photographs of the crop circles we've created,

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and you do think, did we do that, was that possible,

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in four hours, under cover of darkness?

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Do you see yourselves as artists using the landscape?

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Do you chose the site carefully so that it will look a particular way from the air?

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We work primarily in Wiltshire,

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and it's an area that has probably more Neolithic sites per square mile than anywhere else in Europe.

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So we drop a crop circle next to Silbury Hill or Avebury Ring,

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you kind of have a captive audience,

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and you've placed it in a mystical landscape.

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So, how would people react, what would they come and do here?

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They might get healed - that's quite a common thing -

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or they might have a negative effect of feeling nauseous

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or have a headache or something.

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Or they might come and meditate or sleep or make love, all sorts.

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-How do you know they come here and make love?

-They write about it.

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-Actually, I have a photograph of someone...

-Have you?

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..taken from a helicopter.

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Crop-circle-makers traditionally work secretly

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under cover of darkness.

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But being a bit chicken, we'd asked permission.

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How do you say "welcome to Wales" in Welsh?

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-Oh, I've no idea cos I'm Scottish!

-You're Scottish!

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I come all this way to meet a Welshman and you're Scottish.

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What do you expect of someone taking money?

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Thank you very much.

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This is the frontier between England and Wales.

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The two countries were united by conquest over 700 years ago,

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but the differences in national character are strong as ever.

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It's nice that you pay £4.80 to go into Wales,

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but getting out is free.

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I'm, in a way, coming home.

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My grandfather was Welsh, and his three daughters were called

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Dilys, Myfwanwy and Olwen,

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so at least a quarter of me is coming home now

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even though I always claim to be a Viking.

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It's only in the past 250 years

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that painters have turned to this spectacular scenery for inspiration.

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Artists would happily go to the Continent

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but gave Wales a miss, thinking it barren,

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too untamed.

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But a painter called Richard Wilson took a different view.

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Travelling on the Continent, Wilson learnt the art of landscape painting in the Italian style.

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But in the 1760s he did something nobody ever thought of doing before.

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He began a series of paintings of Welsh landscape,

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saying to his friends, as a proud Welshman,

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"What's Italy and France got that Wales can't offer?"

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These are the slopes of Cader Idris,

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which translates in Welsh as "the throne of Idris".

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And Idris was a mythological giant or bard.

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It's said that if you spend the night on this mountain

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you wake up in the morning either blind, or mad, or a poet.

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This is the place that inspired Richard Wilson's finest painting.

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Wilson's painting heralds a new era.

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He takes this rugged landscape and creates a visionary picture,

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one of the earliest masterpieces of British landscape art.

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This is one of the places I've longed all my life to see...

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..because that picture of Wilson's always been fixed in my imagination.

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And here... it's exactly like the picture.

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This great expanse of calm, flat water. Dark, tinged with green.

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And then this clear line of the hills, the rocks, all around.

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Absolute beautiful silhouette against a grey sky.

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And it's so extraordinary to think that this is the place

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that Wilson came after travelling in Italy, travelling in France,

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seeing the way they painted landscape there

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and saying to himself, "It ought to be possible to look at Welsh landscape like that.

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"We've got landscape just as good, just as dramatic,"

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and applying everything he'd learnt to this place,

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to Cader Idris.

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It's magic to be here. The only thing I can't understand

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is why there aren't rows of painters all the way, from left to right, painting this scene.

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Because it is just terrific.

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Wilson had a huge influence on the generation of painters that followed him.

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The young William Turner came here on a pilgrimage,

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he was so impressed, just to see Wilson's birthplace.

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And John Constable said of Wilson, "He was one of those appointed

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"to show the world what exists in nature."

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North of Cader Idris is Snowdon,

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the highest mountain in Wales.

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Ever since 1896 this magnificent railway has been carrying people

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who either can't walk or don't want to walk to the top of Snowdon

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to see the views up there.

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The engine that's pushing us today is the original engine from 1896,

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now driven not by Welsh coal, but by Polish coal.

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But the steam engine puffing away at the back there, taking us up.

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It's actually a lovely way of seeing this countryside.

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Not that I can't walk, but I'm feeling quite idle today.

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And all round, as you go up,

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there are these great views of the open hillsides,

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rushing waterfalls, the sheep and lambs in the fields.

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And all the time this steam engine just going, ch-ch-ch, ch-ch-ch,

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doing the hard work for you. Nice!

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Snowdon has long been a favourite of painters and writers.

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When the poet William Wordsworth came here,

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he described it as

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"a silent sea of hoary mist"

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"a hundred hills, their dusky backs upheaved

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"all over this still ocean and beyond."

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Snowdon has always been a symbol of Welsh independence.

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It's the subject of many epic poems and songs

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written and performed by the bards

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who've kept the spirit of Wales alive.

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The bards were more than just poets and musicians.

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They were more like a kind of priesthood

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with real influence in Wales and a proper training for the job.

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But when Edward I invaded the country,

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conquered Wales, in the 13th century,

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their influence began to wane.

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A myth grew up that Edward himself had ordered them all killed

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in order to stamp out Welsh culture.

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And the myth went on that the last bard left

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chose to throw himself off the top of Snowdon

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rather than die at the hands of the English.

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The painter Thomas Jones shows the last bard on the side of Snowdon.

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He's about to leap to his death

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as the English army approaches in the distance.

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He's surrounded by the bodies of his fellow bards.

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Curiously, Stonehenge has been moved to Snowdon

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as though to suggest that all the land from the planes of Wiltshire

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to the peaks of North Wales rightfully belongs to the Celts.

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# Mae hen wlad fy nhadau yn annwyl i mi

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# Gwlad beirdd a chantorion, enwogion o fri

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# Ei gwrol ryfelwyr, gwladgarwyr tra mad

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# Tros ryddid gollasant eu gwaed

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# Gwlad, gwlad

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# Pleidiol wyf i'm gwlad

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# Tra mor yn fur i'r bur hoff bau

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# O bydded i'r hen iaith barhau

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# Gwlad, gwlad

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# Pleidiol wyf i'm gwlad

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# Tra mor yn fur i'r bur hoff bau

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# O bydded i'r hen iaith barhau! #

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That was terrific!

0:32:280:32:30

How often have you sung Land Of My Fathers on an open hillside?

0:32:300:32:35

It clears the lungs, you see!

0:32:350:32:38

What's the origin of the song? Where does it actually come from?

0:32:390:32:43

Does anyone know about that?

0:32:430:32:45

Don't know. Just been singing it for years.

0:32:450:32:47

It's a song about slaughtering the English or something(!)

0:32:470:32:50

THEY ALL LAUGH

0:32:500:32:54

I always...

0:32:540:32:56

It's a song about...

0:33:000:33:02

I always suspected that!

0:33:060:33:09

-It's a song about slaughtering the English.

-Something like that.

0:33:090:33:13

Do you all speak Welsh...? You're very politely speaking English now,

0:33:130:33:16

but do you speak Welsh among yourselves and during rehearsals?

0:33:160:33:20

-ALL: Yes.

-Always in Welsh?

0:33:200:33:22

-Excuse me?

-Yes.

-What dialect have you got?

0:33:220:33:24

Me? I only have about three words of Welsh. I had a Welsh grandfather.

0:33:240:33:29

-No, I'm asking...

-My English?

-Yes.

-I don't have a dialect.

0:33:290:33:34

I come hotfoot from the BBC!

0:33:340:33:36

-You've got to be bilingual as well!

-Yes!

0:33:420:33:45

-BBC English and normal English!

-BBC English is a very strange...

0:33:450:33:49

Actually, it's dying out now.

0:33:490:33:51

I learnt it at my father's knee, but it's vanishing, I'm afraid.

0:33:510:33:56

An artist needs constantly to refresh his inspiration.

0:34:230:34:27

The English painter Samuel Palmer had spent many years

0:34:270:34:31

painting mystical pictures of the Weald of Kent.

0:34:310:34:34

Very beautiful, they are too. But, he'd run out of ideas.

0:34:340:34:36

And then he came here, in 1835.

0:34:360:34:40

And he discovered at the waterfall of Pistil Mawddach

0:34:400:34:44

a scene that led him to paint one of his greatest pictures.

0:34:440:34:48

Peaty water spills down like a river of gold.

0:34:580:35:02

The cliffs glow in the sunlight.

0:35:040:35:07

Palmer's son said, "This painting contained his whole heart."

0:35:100:35:15

Palmer wrote movingly to a friend about his experience of being here.

0:35:270:35:31

He said, "All is solitude and utter stillness,

0:35:310:35:35

"except for the fall of a mountain stream.

0:35:350:35:37

"To such an accompaniment, the heart may utter its full music."

0:35:370:35:42

That wonderful golden glow that Samuel Palmer paints...

0:35:500:35:55

looks as though it could just be a figment of the artist's imagination.

0:35:550:36:00

A kind of artistic licence. Not so. The water here really does glow.

0:36:000:36:04

30 years after Palmer was here, there was a kind of gold rush.

0:36:090:36:13

Mines opened up all over the area.

0:36:130:36:15

Although most of them have now closed,

0:36:160:36:18

there are still places where you can find gold in the water.

0:36:180:36:22

You can see the lighter material is travelling off the top.

0:36:370:36:40

It's going back to the river.

0:36:400:36:41

Give it another shake now.

0:36:430:36:45

You want to keep that gold down on the bottom of the pan.

0:36:450:36:48

-That's it.

-So it's all done under water except the final stage?

-Yes.

0:36:480:36:53

How did gold mining start here?

0:36:550:36:58

Well, there are a lot of mineral veins in the area

0:36:580:37:01

and in the 18th and 19th century,

0:37:010:37:05

hundreds of people flocked to the area, mines sprang up.

0:37:050:37:10

-There's a little grain.

-Where?!

0:37:100:37:13

-Can just about see it...

-Oh, there!

-Anyone got a microscope?!

0:37:130:37:16

-Tiny! Just there?

-Yes.

0:37:160:37:19

But you can see, it's stayed behind everything else, has washed away.

0:37:190:37:23

-Yeah, three grains, there, look. Or two grains.

-Possibly two.

0:37:230:37:27

-Possibly two there.

-There's gold in them there rivers!

0:37:270:37:31

How brilliant!

0:37:310:37:33

Well, well, well...

0:37:330:37:36

I can't say it's enough to offer to a jeweller

0:37:360:37:39

-and have made up into a ring.

-Oh, no.

0:37:390:37:41

-It's great.

-You'd be here for a very long time to get that much.

0:37:410:37:45

Excellent.

0:37:450:37:46

Laugharne is a small seaside town in South Wales

0:38:310:38:35

immortalised in the work of the most famous Welsh poet -

0:38:350:38:38

Dylan Thomas.

0:38:380:38:39

Thomas first came to Laugharne in 1934 when he was just 21.

0:38:420:38:46

He said at the time it was the strangest town in all Wales.

0:38:460:38:50

But four years later, he was back.

0:38:500:38:53

Exhausted by the pressures of life in London and also, I suspect,

0:38:530:38:57

by maintaining that image of the hard-drinking romantic poet,

0:38:570:39:02

he made this place his home, his retreat from the world.

0:39:020:39:05

A place that, at least for a time,

0:39:050:39:07

saved him from the path to self destruction.

0:39:070:39:11

In the evenings, Thomas would come down to the town and visit the pubs

0:39:190:39:23

and have a drink or two, or three or four,

0:39:230:39:26

and listen to the locals talking.

0:39:260:39:28

He used the conversations and stories he heard

0:39:280:39:31

as the basis for the famous play Under Milk Wood,

0:39:310:39:34

which put Laugharne on the map.

0:39:340:39:36

He didn't actually call it Laugharne in the play.

0:39:360:39:39

He called it Llareggub, which is "bugger all" spelt backwards.

0:39:390:39:44

Aah, delicious! Where's it made?

0:39:520:39:55

That one is made in Ammanford.

0:39:550:39:57

It translates as nice beer.

0:39:570:40:00

"Up the street in the Sailors Arms,

0:40:030:40:06

"Sinbad Sailors, grandson of Mary Ann Sailors,

0:40:060:40:10

"draws a pint in the sunlit bar.

0:40:100:40:14

"The ship's clock in the bar says half past eleven.

0:40:140:40:18

"Half past eleven is opening time.

0:40:180:40:21

"The hands of the clock have stayed still at half past eleven

0:40:210:40:26

"for 50 years. It's always opening time in the Sailors Arms."

0:40:260:40:31

Dylan Thomas and his family moved into a boathouse

0:40:370:40:39

down on the foreshore there.

0:40:390:40:41

He actually did his work here in this shed.

0:40:410:40:44

It was, if you like, his ivory tower in what he called Ivory Laugharne.

0:40:440:40:49

It was a place he could get away from the family, the children,

0:40:490:40:53

and all the rows and the tensions and sit here quietly on his own

0:40:530:40:56

and write his poems.

0:40:560:40:58

It looks out...

0:41:070:41:09

..over this bay that he loved so much

0:41:100:41:12

and Laugharne in the distance there.

0:41:120:41:15

It's what he once called,

0:41:150:41:17

"the mussel-pooled and the heron-priested shore."

0:41:170:41:22

It was here that he wrote one of his best poems,

0:41:250:41:28

when his father was dying in the town nearby.

0:41:280:41:33

And he sat at this desk and wrote these words.

0:41:330:41:38

"Do not go gentle into that good night

0:41:400:41:44

"Old age should rave and burn at close of day

0:41:440:41:48

"Rage, rage against the dying of the light

0:41:480:41:51

"Good men, the last wave by crying how bright

0:41:530:41:59

"Their frail deeds might have danced in a green bay

0:41:590:42:03

"Rage, rage against the dying of the light

0:42:030:42:07

"And you, my father, there on the sad height

0:42:070:42:11

"Curse, bless me now with your tears, I pray

0:42:110:42:16

"Do not go gentle into that good night

0:42:160:42:19

"Rage, rage against the dying of the light."

0:42:190:42:24

Just two years later, Dylan Thomas died,

0:42:330:42:37

aged 39.

0:42:370:42:39

I've come to Pembrokeshire to see the landscape

0:43:040:43:08

that entranced one of my favourite painters, Graham Sutherland.

0:43:080:43:12

He first came here in 1934 and returned again and again.

0:43:120:43:18

From the moment Sutherland came to Wales,

0:43:230:43:27

he said he was obsessed.

0:43:270:43:29

This was the kind of countryside that he loved.

0:43:290:43:32

What he responded to...

0:43:320:43:34

The fields,

0:43:340:43:36

the overhanging hedges, what he called the twisted gorse,

0:43:360:43:39

and, above all, the strange quality of the light

0:43:390:43:42

which was magical and transforming.

0:43:420:43:46

It just changed the look of things all the time.

0:43:460:43:49

I mean, look at it today. We've got a strong wind from the south-west,

0:43:490:43:53

white horses at sea

0:43:530:43:55

and the whole of this landscape clean and rich with colour.

0:43:550:43:59

It was this that Sutherland responded to.

0:43:590:44:03

This is where he found his inspiration.

0:44:030:44:06

I like his sulphurous colours best. I like that sulphurous yellow

0:44:480:44:52

and that sort of rather cruel lime green and strange pinks.

0:44:520:44:59

And I like the shapes.

0:44:590:45:01

But it's just that piercing eye that he has

0:45:070:45:11

that makes you not walk past but stop and look

0:45:110:45:16

and see the shape and see the colour

0:45:160:45:19

in a way that, without him, you might not have done.

0:45:190:45:23

I'm leaving Wales to return to a place I've known since childhood.

0:45:380:45:43

The last leg of our trip brings us to Devon.

0:45:570:46:00

We're sailing into Dartmouth on my sailing boat, Rocket,

0:46:000:46:04

whose home port it is.

0:46:040:46:06

I've sailed these waters for years and years and years.

0:46:060:46:09

I love them. The countryside around is beautiful.

0:46:090:46:12

The added pleasure is the long, distinguished history

0:46:120:46:15

of Dartmouth as a naval port.

0:46:150:46:17

The maritime artist Thomas Looney captures the bustle of the harbour

0:46:220:46:27

in the early 19th-century.

0:46:270:46:28

Thomas Looney was absolutely obsessed with the sea.

0:46:500:46:53

He painted in his lifetime something like 3,000 pictures,

0:46:530:46:56

most of them of the sea and boats and ships.

0:46:560:46:59

It's an extraordinary achievement.

0:47:030:47:05

From his early 40s, Looney was crippled

0:47:050:47:08

by what's thought to have been a severe form of arthritis.

0:47:080:47:12

A visitor to his studio said that the painter's wrists

0:47:130:47:17

ended not in hands but in two stumps

0:47:170:47:20

and he held the brush between them.

0:47:200:47:23

Under these conditions, he produced some of his most delicate work.

0:47:250:47:29

Bearing away! Come on, Sally, what are you doing?!

0:47:400:47:44

You're doing it the wrong way, Sal, I suspect.

0:47:460:47:49

'Sailing's always said to bring out the worst in a man,

0:47:520:47:55

'a view sadly shared by my sister.'

0:47:550:47:59

The captain of Rocket can sometimes be a bit of a Captain Blythe.

0:47:590:48:04

We certainly don't get pleases or thank-yous.

0:48:040:48:07

Ready about! SALLY!

0:48:070:48:10

HE LAUGHS

0:48:150:48:18

You've forgotten it!

0:48:180:48:20

-You're all fingers and thumbs!

-Oooh, where's the...?

0:48:200:48:23

-MOCKING:

-Oooh, where's the...?

0:48:230:48:25

Splashy, rainy, misty, snowy, foggy, haily, floody.

0:48:480:48:52

Those are not my words. They're the words of Romantic poet, John Keats.

0:48:520:48:55

When he came to Devon, he couldn't stand it.

0:48:550:48:58

That was the weather he had and that's the weather you can get.

0:48:580:49:01

Up here on Dartmoor,

0:49:010:49:02

this weather really makes it all the more mysterious.

0:49:020:49:06

Because this is a place of legend. There's a story, for instance,

0:49:060:49:11

that on this road, if I'm not careful,

0:49:110:49:13

hairy hands will come up and seize the steering wheel of the car

0:49:130:49:17

and force me off the road to my death.

0:49:170:49:21

So I must go very, very carefully.

0:49:220:49:24

Like so many travellers, I've been lured across Dartmoor

0:49:310:49:35

to the seductive charms of Cornwall.

0:49:350:49:38

The novelist Daphne Du Maurier

0:49:490:49:52

first came to Fowey on holiday in 1926 at the age of 19.

0:49:520:49:57

She fell in love with the place and eventually settled here.

0:49:570:50:01

This is just outside Fowey, one of the lanes Daphne du Maurier used to walk,

0:50:150:50:20

with its great high hedge, hundreds of years old.

0:50:200:50:23

And she found here what many artists who came to the mystical West found,

0:50:230:50:28

what she called a sense of continuity of the past and the present merging.

0:50:280:50:34

But always this sense of this being a very old country.

0:50:340:50:39

In this timeless landscape, du Maurier could lose herself for hours,

0:50:390:50:45

imagining it inhabited by smugglers, pirates,

0:50:450:50:50

cavaliers in the Civil War.

0:50:500:50:52

And she wrote stories about them all.

0:50:520:50:56

One day she was here, watching a farmer ploughing his field,

0:50:560:51:00

she said, "With a cloud of screaming gulls circling above his head."

0:51:000:51:05

Then an idea came to her which become one of her best stories,

0:51:050:51:09

and certainly one of Alfred Hitchcock's best films.

0:51:090:51:13

The idea was just four words,

0:51:130:51:16

"Supposing the gulls attacked."

0:51:160:51:20

SEAGULLS CRY

0:51:200:51:23

"A gull dived down at him from the sky, missed, swerved in flight,

0:51:230:51:27

"and rose to dive again. Covering his head with his arms,

0:51:270:51:31

"he ran towards the cottage. They kept coming at him from the air,

0:51:310:51:36

"silent save for the beating wings. He felt the blood on his hands,

0:51:360:51:40

"his wrists, his neck. Each stab of a swooping beak tore his flesh.

0:51:400:51:45

"With each dive, with each attack, they became bolder."

0:51:450:51:50

Polridmouth Beach is at the heart of Daphne du Maurier's great mystery story, Rebecca.

0:52:050:52:11

This isolated cove is where Rebecca was murdered.

0:52:110:52:16

Her spirit casts a shadow over her husband and his new wife.

0:52:160:52:21

In Rebecca, she describes coming down the steep path,

0:52:280:52:32

through the woods, to the grey cove, and the deserted cottage,

0:52:320:52:37

and said, "These things disturb me."

0:52:370:52:41

And there is a kind of...eeriness

0:52:410:52:43

about this place that she captured in that book.

0:52:430:52:47

It's extraordinary to think that that short ten-minute walk

0:53:050:53:10

inspired two of the most popular, worldwide books and films of the 20th century.

0:53:100:53:17

And it's because du Maurier had the power to capture this landscape to use it as her inspiration.

0:53:170:53:23

She once said, "I know that no person will ever enter my blood, as Cornwall has.

0:53:230:53:29

"People and things pass away, but not places."

0:53:290:53:34

My last stop is one of the most beautiful coastal towns in Britain,

0:53:480:53:52

St Ives.

0:53:520:53:55

St Ives is famous today as an artists' colony.

0:54:050:54:08

But even 100 years ago, it was teeming with painters,

0:54:080:54:11

many of them professionals from London, jaded with life there,

0:54:110:54:15

and wanting to come down here to this beautiful seaside scenery

0:54:150:54:18

and this magical light.

0:54:180:54:20

Perhaps the most famous wasn't a professional painter at all.

0:54:200:54:25

He lived in St Ives, he was a fisherman.

0:54:250:54:28

His name, Alfred Wallis.

0:54:280:54:30

Wallis went to sea as a cabin boy when he was only nine years old.

0:54:410:54:46

And for many years, the sea was his life.

0:54:460:54:49

When Wallis was 70, his wife suddenly died,

0:54:580:55:02

and he was completely distraught, didn't know what to do.

0:55:020:55:06

He saw all the artists working here and thought he'd take up painting,

0:55:060:55:10

as he put it, "for company".

0:55:100:55:12

Wallis painted simply, like a child.

0:55:150:55:19

He used ship's paint on pieces of driftwood or cardboard,

0:55:190:55:24

to bring alive memories of his life at sea.

0:55:240:55:27

Wallis captured the spirit of Cornwall

0:55:360:55:39

as vividly as the professional painters who'd come to live in the town.

0:55:390:55:43

To the locals in St Ives, Wallis was seen as a rather eccentric dabbler in painting.

0:55:460:55:51

They didn't take it very seriously.

0:55:510:55:53

But in the '20s, when the modern painters came here, saw him painting outside his cottage,

0:55:530:55:57

they recognised naive genius.

0:55:570:56:00

To a whole generation of artists who settled here,

0:56:100:56:13

Wallis's painting showed the instinctive response to landscape

0:56:130:56:18

that they were struggling to achieve.

0:56:180:56:21

The paintings of a retired fisherman influenced

0:56:240:56:28

some of Britain's most successful 20th-century artists.

0:56:280:56:32

Here Wallis is, hanging on the wall of the Tate Gallery in St Ives.

0:56:570:57:01

He would've been... pleased as punch by this,

0:57:010:57:06

because in his lifetime, though a few painters

0:57:060:57:09

saw something special in his work,

0:57:090:57:12

he wasn't internationally recognised as he is today.

0:57:120:57:15

In fact, he died in poverty,

0:57:150:57:18

his last days spent in the workhouse.

0:57:180:57:22

This is the island. The headland that juts out from St Ives into the Atlantic.

0:57:440:57:50

DH Lawrence said of being in Cornwall that it was like being at a window looking out from England.

0:57:500:57:56

But if you turn the other way, you can see it

0:57:560:57:59

as a window looking back into Britain.

0:57:590:58:03

Looking at all those landscapes we've seen,

0:58:030:58:06

each one a different country, each with its own accent and attitude.

0:58:060:58:12

All of them brought to life by the skill and imagination of those artists,

0:58:120:58:17

who've offered us their vision of Britain to share.

0:58:170:58:21

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0:58:510:58:54

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