Episode 3 The Great British Sewing Bee


Episode 3

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It's the semi-final of The Great British Sewing Bee

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and the pressure is on.

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After last week's agonising decision about who created the perfect

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zip-fly and who rolled the finest silk hem,

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we're down to four contestants,

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all of whom want to stitch their way to victory

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and be crowned Britain's Best Amateur Sewer.

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They get a crown, right?

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Last time, making a pair of trousers separated the men from the boys.

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And you've got the fly the wrong way around.

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-Fitness instructor Stuart...

-Oh, cheeky!

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..surprised the judges with his tulips.

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Love it. Brilliant!

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For the first time, Ann disappointed with her patch pockets.

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I think you could have been more ambitious.

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I think we'll leave it at that.

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-And after the silky blouse challenge...

-It's gone Pete Tong.

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..and much debate...

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-We need to talk about that.

-We do need to talk about this.

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..Tilly...

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I've lost my pins, I've lost everything.

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..and Mark were asked to leave The Sewing Bee.

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Oh, no!

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This week:

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# I'm in the semi-finals. #

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The semi-finalists face three more challenges,

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set by Savile Row's Patrick Grant

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and the nation's most experienced sewing teacher, May Martin.

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The fabric itself has got a mind of its own.

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But how will they cope with sewing on a miniature scale?

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The competition is fierce, isn't it? Fierce.

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What can they possibly do to transform this shapeless dress?

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I want to do something drastic like chop the skirt off.

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And after the most tricky made-to-measure challenge yet...

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I've got cramp in my fingers!

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..which one of them will be asked to leave The Sewing Bee?

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They're just going to crucify me!

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-I've not got enough fabric.

-I can smell the tension.

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The tasks are getting harder.

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Only the best three will make it through to the final.

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This is The Great British Sewing Bee.

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We're back in east London, where the four remaining contestants

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are facing two solid days of sewing.

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81-year-old yoga devotee Ann

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is hoping her 75 years of sewing experience

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will hold her in good stead.

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Back again! This is absolutely amazing. Brilliant!

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She is very measured and knows her capabilities, which are great.

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But she never takes big risks.

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Up against Ann is 41-year-old fitness instructor

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and creative maverick, Stuart.

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I want to up my game, I want to be good enough to stay in.

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I really fought for Stuart last week because he showed flair,

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he showed individuality,

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but today there are some technical challenges.

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48-year-old hospital cleaner Sandra has honed her sewing skills

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making clothes for family and friends.

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I can't believe I'm here for the semi-final.

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The judges will not give you a second chance for getting it wrong,

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not at this late stage.

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Sandra needs to demonstrate to us that she knows how to fit.

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She needs to show us that the eye for fitting,

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as well as technical excellence, are there.

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And the fourth semi-finalist is 27-year-old perfectionist Lauren.

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Everything definitely feels much more tense.

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Everyone knows the levels of what you've got to do

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have just been pushed up a little bit.

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There's no corner to hide.

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I think Lauren needs to just show

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there is more about her than florals and frills.

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I think we need to see she's got a broader range of capabilities.

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Oh, Lordy!

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The semi-finalists have no idea what today's challenges will involve.

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I'm really excited about today and I'm really looking forward

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to watching all of them do their best work.

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We are looking to expose any weaknesses

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and to celebrate all the brilliant techniques they can bring to bear.

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Welcome back to The Sewing Bee

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and huge congratulations for getting into the semi-final.

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We always start with a challenge about following a pattern.

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The judges today would like you to make a child's dress.

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You can use whatever fabric you like.

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Lauren, you look terrified.

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-Just a bit.

-Absolute nightmare.

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Is it? Good luck. Off you go. Two-and-a-half hours. It starts now.

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In this first challenge,

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the judges want to test the sewers' ability to follow a pattern.

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As it's the semi-final, they want to see couture techniques

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carried out on a small scale.

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The pattern itself is for a toddler's summer dress.

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It's straight-forward but the finishing needs to be exquisite.

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Two pieces of fabric are sewn together with a special French seam,

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then gathered into fine pleats at the top

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with rows of shirring elastic.

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It's joined to form a tube and stitched on to the other side.

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Then rouleau loops are made by rolling two strips of fabric

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which are then attached to the shoulder and tied in a bow.

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What kind of fabric should these guys be choosing?

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-Something that's soft.

-Like that.

-We want this to gather up.

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If the fabric's too stiff, it won't sit well.

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We want it to ruche up.

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It's a nice, light, fine cotton fabric.

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So things like the shirring, where everything is elasticated

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and gathered up, if you had a fabric that was very thick,

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it would sort of be lumpy and wouldn't hang nicely.

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-Is this a good fabric, May?

-Yes, you need something soft.

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-I wanted something lightweight.

-A good choice.

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It's soft, so it'll move nicely.

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It's plain, so you don't have to worry about a pattern.

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But not everyone has gone for a simple option.

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I thought with a stripe, the bottom would look as good as the top.

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First thing I've got to do is find the rest of my pattern!

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I wanted a fine cotton

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and also that I thought would look pretty on a child.

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I think a child might be quite happy with the flowers on this print.

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I think it's rather fun.

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# 20 tiny fingers

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# 20 tiny toes... #

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Once the sewers have cut out the back and front of the dress,

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they need to stitch it together on one side,

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using their first couture technique.

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Using a French seam, join...

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Ah, now, French seams...

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I know what a French seam is. Phew! That's good.

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What is a French seam?

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You sew wrong side to wrong side, one row of stitching,

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then you turn it back, fold it, press it,

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and then you resew it again on the top

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so you've got two rows of stitching.

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So the raw edges are enclosed inside

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-and you've got a very, very strong seam.

-Why is that important?

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One of the things about kids' clothes is they get washed a lot.

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You need a robust garment.

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It's almost like you sew the seam twice

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so that it hides any raw edges

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and it's just a neater way of finishing something off.

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It also means it's nice and soft on the inside for kids.

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When I've made children's clothes before,

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it's really just been as a little practice to myself.

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I've not actually made them for a child,

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just because they are kind of cute.

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What have you been practising for, Lauren?

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You're starting to sound like my mother-in-law now!

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It's many years since I did anything like this.

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Mother of five and grandmother of seven,

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Ann has an advantage over the other sewers in the semi-final,

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having made clothes for two generations of children.

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Funnily enough, we were talking about this last week.

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They reminded me of special dresses that I'd made for them

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and the excitement they felt in seeing them.

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It was great!

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Years ago, a friend of mine had a baby

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and I made two absolutely revolting baby dresses.

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Disgusting fabric.

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You know, really bizarre, like curtain fabric.

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I think it was a bit of a Sound Of Music moment, you know,

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"That would look cute."

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Not cute. Not cute, not clever.

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HE LAUGHS Poor child!

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It'll probably grow up psychologically damaged

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and it'll be all my fault.

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Every time they see a pair of curtains, they'll freak out.

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One hour 30 minutes left.

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That's one hour 30 minutes.

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-Don't panic.

-I won't.

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I thought I would be further on by now. Time's flying past.

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Patrick and May's pattern doesn't specify how many rows

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of shirring elastic the sewers should use

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to gather the tops of their dresses.

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I don't know if there's an indication on the picture.

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I've got to shirr between here and here,

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so I reckon probably one, two, three, four lines of shirring should do it.

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Shirring shmirring.

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If I was to have five...

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One, two, three, four, five. That'll do.

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One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight.

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About seven to eight rows of elastic, I would like, in there.

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It might be too much for some people, but you know what?

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It's not going to make any difference

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until Patrick gets his tape measure out.

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The elastic has to be wound on to a bobbin

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before putting it into the machine.

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I'm just going to keep winding.

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-That's the shirring elastic.

-That's the elastic.

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You reel that onto there.

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But you have to wind it on by hand.

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If you wind it on the machine it stretches as it goes on.

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-You have to wind it on relaxed.

-Ah!

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I'm not going to tell anybody.

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I'm going to put some shirring elastic on by machine.

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I've done it by machine at home in the past.

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Everybody else will be horrified.

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I think if I hold it like that in my hand,

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I can guide it, so it's not too tight.

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There we go.

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By hand it can be just too loose.

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With the bobbin of elastic in the machine,

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the fabric should ruche up easily.

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You are shirring, you are pushing a row of elastic along

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and as you machine stitch,

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the elastic gathers up the fabric.

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Crucial to perfect shirring is an even tension

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when holding the fabric as it passes under the machine foot.

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Making this little dress brings back the memories

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of when you have got three to do.

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The first one's a pleasure. The second one goes OK.

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By the time you get to the third one,

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you've had enough and want to get it finished.

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The unlucky person got the third one.

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It might have been a bit more roughly done.

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Even when a row is finished, tension is still critical.

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The trouble is, when you finish sewing,

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you've got to make sure you pull enough elastic through

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that you don't lose it.

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As you pull it and cut it, it springs back into the machine.

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My elastic just keeps pinging back into the bobbin.

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Each additional row of elastic needs to be stitched

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at precisely the same tension.

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And perfectly parallel to the last.

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This has got to be done quite by eye.

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I suppose I could draw a line, but I'm not going to.

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Is that in a straight line?

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Yeah, I've pressed a crease so I have a crease to follow.

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They are really into their parallel lines.

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They're really into parallel lines. Absolutely.

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They're like Blondie.

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I put sticky tape on my machine

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so I could line up the fabric as I stitch.

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-Well done.

-Check it out!

-Shirring elastic, stage one.

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How are you getting on, Ann?

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Well, I'm getting there.

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I think I've ventured too many rows of elastic.

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-I think it's ambitious.

-I've done four. How many have you done?

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I've done one, two, three, four

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and I've still got about another four to go.

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-Oh!

-Blooming heck. You're doing eight? Sandra!

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-How many have you done?

-Oh, shut up!

-Get out of town!

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-It'll be fine.

-How many have you done, Stuart?

-Three.

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The little girl doesn't want it falling down, does she?

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No, but at the same time, it doesn't want to be like a tourniquet, Sandra.

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-Sorry?

-Doesn't want to be like a tourniquet, either.

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Got to think about that child's comfort.

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Once the dress is joined together to form a tube...

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At the moment I'm doing the second French seam.

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..the next couture technique is to create rouleau straps.

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I'm turning my straps the right way. I've done the one fine.

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This one, I'm all fingers and thumbs.

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I think the pressure is getting to me.

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Rouleau straps are round tubes of fabric.

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How do you make it loop?

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-You have a piece of fabric which you've cut...

-On the bias.

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-I like it! On the bias!

-I'm learning.

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You have a piece of fabric that you cut at a 45-degree angle.

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-You then fold it in half.

-OK.

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You machine your tube and then they've got a metal gadget

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with a hook on the end, which you feed up through the tube,

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-hook on the end and pull it through.

-You pull it inside out!

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Got it, just!

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If you look at the way Ann is making hers, she's hovering with the iron,

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so the steam is going in and giving them a little press

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but she's not squashing them flat.

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-But Sandra has other ideas.

-I'm not doing rouleau straps.

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I have done the one.

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I can demonstrate why I prefer to go with my own.

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There is never a completely right way of doing anything in sewing,

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you do what you are happy with.

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With a place in the final at stake,

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Sandra's decision not to follow the pattern could be dangerous.

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They want the rouleau strap.

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(They are not getting a rouleau strap.)

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Well, what's this? What's this finickety thing?

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-I don't like it.

-What are you talking about?

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-Turn this inside out!

-I haven't got time.

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Everyone, you have ten minutes. That's the ten minute call.

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The final instruction on the pattern is to find and add embellishment.

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It hadn't occurred to me to do anything outside the instructions.

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I thought that the test was to follow the instructions.

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Oh, embellishment of your ch... I didn't read that!

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I wanted to add something. I'm thinking another button.

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-There are other buttons going on. So button up.

-OK.

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I'm going to make another bit of rouleau and tie a bow on the front.

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I haven't got time to think of anything else.

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Two little buttons and I had time

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so I'm putting a patch pocket on the front, as well.

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Let's never forget your success with the patch pocket.

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Just call me the Patch Man.

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I'm not really sure what I'm doing there.

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My pins are in the wrong way. I'll do it this way.

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You have 30 seconds, please,

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to put your beautiful dresses on the mannequins.

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How are you doing, guys?

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15 seconds.

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Sandra, I'll be honest, I am talking to you.

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Thank you. Finito.

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Stand away. Stand away. Look somewhere else.

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Finished. Massive well done.

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These are adorable.

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# I love you, a bushel and a peck

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# A bushel and a peck and a hug around the neck

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# A hug around the neck and a barrel and a heap

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# A barrel and a heap and I'm talking in my sleep

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# About you... #

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May, first impression?

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We've got even spacing with our shirring here.

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This is a lovely French seam. Yes, it is very well-executed.

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I like the detail. You've tied a knot on the end of your rouleau,

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which I think is really precise.

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The bow on the front is a beautiful detail.

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Very delicate. It's very beautifully done.

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Ann, well done. Are you happy with that?

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Very happy, yes, thank you.

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First impression? Really, really cute.

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However, the problem up here is if you were putting this

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on and off a child and you only had two rows of shirring,

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it's weak and it would take no time at all for the shirring to break.

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and it's by having several rows of it

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that you get the strength in the garment.

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Right. Now then, French seams. Quite a generous seam.

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One might say sort of on the elephant side.

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I think you need to refine your techniques a bit

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and scale them down a little bit.

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This is a beautifully executed rendition of this pattern.

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The obvious thing to say

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is just how beautifully delicate these straps are.

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I mean, this is just exemplary handling skills.

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I mean, really, really fabulous.

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It's extremely neatly sewn through the bodice.

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A fantastic piece of sewing.

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I think you've done a really, really good job.

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Your French seam is really fine.

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Smaller than Ann's. Good job.

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I've just been really impressed with the way those stripes are sitting around the garment.

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They are all sitting vertically and it's so easy to twist them,

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if that shirring hadn't been done nicely.

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A brilliant technique.

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-You haven't made rouleau loops.

-I have.

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Well, you've made one and you've kind of,

0:18:570:18:59

"Here's one I didn't make earlier."

0:18:590:19:01

If my child was wearing that,

0:19:010:19:03

they would want a strap that would stop on.

0:19:030:19:06

In many senses you're right but we did ask you to follow a pattern

0:19:060:19:09

we've got to be strict on it

0:19:090:19:11

but what you've done through here is exemplary.

0:19:110:19:14

Patrick and May will now rank the sewers'

0:19:160:19:18

attempts from fourth to first.

0:19:180:19:20

Sadly, Stuart, yours is number four. A little bit more shirring required.

0:19:220:19:26

Sandra, you come in at number three, beautiful shirring

0:19:260:19:30

but you had flat straps.

0:19:300:19:32

Patrick, who is in at two?

0:19:320:19:33

Very, very difficult to choose between the two of them,

0:19:330:19:36

because both beautifully executed but second...

0:19:360:19:40

Ann.

0:19:400:19:42

-Congratulations to Lauren!

-Yey!

0:19:420:19:45

You won it because those straps are just exquisite.

0:19:450:19:49

-Congratulations.

-A huge well done.

-THEY CLAP

0:19:490:19:53

Go and have a rest before challenge number two, cos it's a biggie.

0:19:530:19:58

You might want to have a sit down.

0:19:580:20:01

I've not had anything up until now,

0:20:060:20:08

and to finally get top in something, I'm really, really chuffed.

0:20:080:20:12

I could have made rouleau that small but I didn't.

0:20:140:20:17

I need to get myself a little higher in the league tables.

0:20:180:20:21

I'm gutted. I can't help but say I'm absolutely gutted.

0:20:210:20:26

It's the semi-final, I've got to up my game.

0:20:260:20:28

If I don't, I'm really jeopardising my place.

0:20:280:20:31

Four beautiful little girl's dresses.

0:20:350:20:38

Now it is time for the alteration challenge.

0:20:380:20:40

Our sewers have just 90 minutes

0:20:400:20:42

to transform the trickiest high street buy yet.

0:20:420:20:46

It's time for your alteration challenge.

0:21:000:21:04

You've got an hour-and-a-half to dramatically alter this dress.

0:21:040:21:08

At the moment it's quite shapeless. You can use pleats.

0:21:080:21:11

You can use darts. You can use whatever you want.

0:21:110:21:15

You've got an hour-and-a-half. Your time starts now.

0:21:150:21:20

This shift stress is made of viscose,

0:21:220:21:24

a fluid fabric commonly used in high street dresses.

0:21:240:21:28

Wait a minute. I need to think a bit more.

0:21:280:21:31

Wait a minute. Wait a minute. Wait a minute.

0:21:310:21:34

Off-the-peg, it's very loose-fitting,

0:21:340:21:36

so it's a perfect garment for a radical alteration.

0:21:360:21:39

Being able to take a very straight-forward dress like this

0:21:390:21:42

and give it some style

0:21:420:21:44

and changing its shape is a really useful thing to be able to do.

0:21:440:21:48

One of the most obvious things to do is to create a waist.

0:21:480:21:51

We can put a couple of darts into the front,

0:21:510:21:53

we can do the same at the back.

0:21:530:21:55

We can take away in the side seams.

0:21:550:21:57

We want to see innate understanding of how to create shape in a garment.

0:21:570:22:01

I know what I want to do...

0:22:050:22:08

..I just can't figure out the best way to do it.

0:22:090:22:12

I'm going to taper the hem

0:22:120:22:15

so that it fits in more closely at the side.

0:22:150:22:18

I'm going to put some tucks at the front

0:22:180:22:20

and I'm going to dart the back so that it fits more closely here.

0:22:200:22:26

I almost want to do something drastic like chop the skirt off

0:22:270:22:30

-but I think it would be quite a big...

-You can!

0:22:300:22:32

-I would feel quite nervous about doing it.

-Don't!

0:22:320:22:35

They want alteration, I think you would get points,

0:22:350:22:38

I'll say this to everyone, for being a bit dramatic.

0:22:380:22:40

You'd chop it off and then what? Attach it again, almost with a band?

0:22:400:22:45

Like a belt that's attached.

0:22:460:22:49

I'm obsessed by that idea!

0:22:490:22:51

If there is any credit for being just a little innovative,

0:22:510:22:55

I want to try and get it.

0:22:550:22:57

I'm doing like a sort of almost like a zigzag ripple effect

0:22:570:23:00

down the outside, hand sewing on the outside.

0:23:000:23:05

If in doubt, call it punk. That's what I say.

0:23:050:23:09

-Sandra, how are you, darling?

-I'm fine. I'm putting some darts in.

0:23:110:23:14

This is an alteration challenge but all I'm saying,

0:23:140:23:18

I've said it to Lauren, because it's the semi-final,

0:23:180:23:21

I think the judges want bravery.

0:23:210:23:23

You need a lot more time for more bravery.

0:23:230:23:25

-Do you?

-I think so. Well, I do.

-Don't say that!

0:23:250:23:28

I've just persuade Lauren to cut her skirt off!

0:23:280:23:30

-What have we had? An hour and 25?

-I bet we've only got an hour now.

0:23:330:23:38

"Contestants, you have three minutes. Three minutes."

0:23:380:23:42

While Stuart, Ann and Sandra

0:23:420:23:44

can repin their alterations if they aren't happy...

0:23:440:23:47

If the dart's positioned wrong, it'll look dreadful.

0:23:470:23:51

..Lauren is about to face the point of no return.

0:23:510:23:55

What I'm going to do is make the top of the dress fitted

0:23:550:23:59

but make the bottom of the dress pleated.

0:23:590:24:01

I'm going to chop it off.

0:24:010:24:03

But I want to make sure I chop it off straight.

0:24:030:24:05

Here goes!

0:24:050:24:07

Chop, chop, chop.

0:24:070:24:10

No going back now.

0:24:110:24:13

I've just got to go for it, I think.

0:24:140:24:17

30 minutes gone and 60 to go.

0:24:190:24:21

40 years ago it wasn't unusual to make your own clothes.

0:24:240:24:27

Most homes had a sewing machine and most high streets a haberdashery.

0:24:270:24:31

During the Second World War, home sewers were called on

0:24:310:24:34

to play a vital role for king and country.

0:24:340:24:36

And they had quite an illustrious role model.

0:24:360:24:39

In 1939, the Queen Mother gathered the members of her staff

0:24:410:24:44

in the Blue Drawing Room of Buckingham Palace

0:24:440:24:47

twice weekly to make clothes for the troops fighting in World War Two.

0:24:470:24:51

She showed the world that when faced with the terrible prospect of war,

0:24:510:24:54

everyone would have to do their bit.

0:24:540:24:56

Women from all walks of life were encouraged to gather together

0:24:560:25:00

to form sewing work parties, known as Sewing Bees,

0:25:000:25:03

using their skills to contribute to the war effort.

0:25:030:25:06

The Queen Mother was a big role model at the time

0:25:060:25:09

because she was the patron of the Women's Voluntary Service.

0:25:090:25:12

They actually organised a lot of these Sewing Bees.

0:25:120:25:16

They were a powerhouse of activity where women could come

0:25:160:25:19

and really contribute to the war effort

0:25:190:25:21

with something they had skills to do.

0:25:210:25:23

They'd be quite noisy and boisterous

0:25:260:25:28

but a real sense of community and a real sense of helping the home front.

0:25:280:25:32

The sewing work parties were often led by a more experienced sewer

0:25:320:25:35

who instructed the group on what was to be made that day.

0:25:350:25:39

The Government actually produced patterns for things like scarves,

0:25:390:25:43

balaclavas and sweaters that could be sent out to the Army and the Navy.

0:25:430:25:48

They also started making camouflage nets

0:25:480:25:51

and things really specifically for the war front.

0:25:510:25:54

I always think it must be hard for the women

0:25:540:25:56

who already knew their husbands were lost,

0:25:560:25:58

to keep producing those things

0:25:580:26:00

for other people's husbands and fiances who were out there.

0:26:000:26:03

In 1941, wartime sewing took a desperate turn

0:26:030:26:08

as industries became more focussed on the war effort,

0:26:080:26:11

fabrics were scarce and clothes rationing was introduced.

0:26:110:26:15

If you weren't wealthy enough to have a wardrobe full of clothes,

0:26:150:26:19

it was a case of make-do-and-mend.

0:26:190:26:22

When it comes to clothes, make-do-and-mend needn't be at all unfashionable.

0:26:220:26:25

Listen to what you can do.

0:26:250:26:26

Mrs Clarke made her frock from her husband's old plus-four trousers.

0:26:260:26:31

To help people cope with clothes rationing,

0:26:310:26:34

the Government issued leaflets, posters and newsreels

0:26:340:26:38

which gave women ideas about how to make their clothes last longer

0:26:380:26:41

and get creative with whatever material was to hand.

0:26:410:26:44

Make-do-and-mend is about using your existing clothes

0:26:440:26:49

or anything you have lying around the house to make new clothes.

0:26:490:26:51

Clothes rationing continued until 1949, by which time

0:26:510:26:54

Britain's make-do-and-menders had become increasingly resourceful.

0:26:540:26:59

Tell me about this dress.

0:26:590:27:01

They're made of silk maps which were issued to aircrews during the war.

0:27:010:27:06

At the end of the war, these maps were sold off in department stores

0:27:060:27:10

and people used them to make all sorts of clothes for themselves.

0:27:100:27:13

Absolutely beautiful.

0:27:130:27:15

People must have had amazing creativity

0:27:150:27:17

and learnt a lot of new skills in a fairly short time

0:27:170:27:20

to be able to produce this sort of thing.

0:27:200:27:23

I suppose necessity breeds invention.

0:27:230:27:24

People had no choice than to really improve their sewing skills.

0:27:240:27:29

There is one person in our own Sewing Bee

0:27:290:27:31

who developed her sewing skills thanks to clothes rationing.

0:27:310:27:35

When I went off to college in 1949,

0:27:360:27:39

I was wearing what to me looked a very smart,

0:27:390:27:42

straight skirt made out of an old pair of my father's trousers!

0:27:420:27:47

Well, in those days, men's trousers were Oxford bags,

0:27:480:27:52

so they had lots of pleats at the front, lots of room in the seat.

0:27:520:27:56

I think that he'd probably worn out the cuffs.

0:27:560:27:59

So I was given these trousers to unpick

0:27:590:28:01

and I made myself a skirt.

0:28:010:28:04

That's what I wore when I went up to college as a student at 18.

0:28:040:28:09

I hate having to make-do-and-mend,

0:28:090:28:12

I think because I had to do it for so long.

0:28:120:28:14

45 minutes to go, and with the new dress shapes pinned into place,

0:28:160:28:20

sewing can begin.

0:28:200:28:22

It's quite tricky, this is.

0:28:220:28:25

Having removed the middle of her dress, Lauren is reattaching the top to the bottom.

0:28:250:28:29

I should be able to just get everything done

0:28:310:28:34

but it's not going to be neat on the inside.

0:28:340:28:36

Let's assume I'm going to be fourth, in terms of skill.

0:28:360:28:40

Can I raise my game by being different to the others?

0:28:400:28:44

-Well, this is my attempt.

-I wanted more of an A-line dress.

0:28:460:28:49

I put two darts in the front, two in the back

0:28:490:28:52

taken the side seams in,

0:28:520:28:54

took that in a bit more around the waist.

0:28:540:28:57

Whether she'll ever get it off or on, I don't know.

0:28:570:29:01

-Has it got a bit of stretch in it?

-It has.

0:29:010:29:04

You should get it over the top.

0:29:040:29:06

OK, everybody, half an hour left. That's half an hour.

0:29:090:29:13

That will give me time to try and tart it up a bit.

0:29:130:29:16

Once they've managed to change the shape of their dress...

0:29:160:29:19

Don't be too small!

0:29:190:29:21

..the sewers can use any remaining time to embellish their alteration.

0:29:210:29:25

-Sandra, I'm just nicking your scissors.

-OK.

0:29:250:29:28

How are you going to finish it off?

0:29:330:29:35

Are you going to put that band around?

0:29:350:29:37

I'm still not 100% on that red.

0:29:370:29:39

-I feel like it looks like an air hostess.

-I'm not. I'm not.

0:29:390:29:42

I'm glad you said that. I'm not 100% on it.

0:29:420:29:45

I think something solid and bolder might look better.

0:29:450:29:50

I'm just putting some braiding around,

0:29:520:29:55

just to make it look a little bit different.

0:29:550:29:57

But when I've held it up, it's like something my nan used to wear!

0:29:570:30:02

-What are you doing?

-It's got a zip on the back anyway, on the outside.

0:30:030:30:08

-I'm just wondering if I can make...

-A zip belt?

-A zip flower.

0:30:080:30:12

-You're thinking of just making a zip flower.

-A zip flower.

0:30:120:30:15

-Why wouldn't you?

-I know.

-It's like Debbie Harry's in the...

-I know!

0:30:150:30:20

I wasn't happy with my ribbon

0:30:200:30:22

cos I felt like it looked like an air hostess,

0:30:220:30:24

so I've gone for something a bit disco.

0:30:240:30:27

Five minutes, everybody. Five minutes left.

0:30:290:30:33

Bloody hell!

0:30:330:30:35

I was thinking of putting that round the neck,

0:30:410:30:45

but I can't do it to my satisfaction in the time.

0:30:450:30:49

Rather than having it put on badly, I'm not going to put on at all.

0:30:490:30:53

Guys, you have one minute left.

0:30:550:30:58

Somebody's watch is wrong.

0:30:580:31:00

That ain't bad for free-hand, is it?

0:31:020:31:06

The judges said to radically change the dress.

0:31:060:31:11

Radically change the look of it, the fit of it. It is a radical change.

0:31:110:31:17

Oh, God! Please get on!

0:31:200:31:23

Oh, shit.

0:31:260:31:28

OK, that's it. Your time's up.

0:31:280:31:31

Please put your dress on your mannequin.

0:31:310:31:35

Place your mannequins at the end of your workstation.

0:31:350:31:38

She can't breathe in, this one.

0:31:380:31:41

The judges are going to judge.

0:31:410:31:44

The challenge was to dramatically change the shape of this dress.

0:31:460:31:51

May and Patrick are about to discover who succeeded.

0:31:510:31:54

OK. Um... A few thoughts went through my head.

0:32:010:32:06

Where's the nearest exit? That was the first one!

0:32:060:32:09

-I wanted this kind of rippled effect down the outside.

-Reshape it.

0:32:090:32:13

You can make it more fitted by pulling the zips down.

0:32:130:32:18

You fulfilled the brief

0:32:180:32:20

and you've created something that's quite bonkers-looking.

0:32:200:32:23

-Yep.

-I'm not saying that this is something we'd

0:32:230:32:26

put down a catwalk, but you've taken a big leap and you've done

0:32:260:32:29

a load of work and actually it kind of almost makes sense.

0:32:290:32:33

-Have you machined that on the inside?

-No, I hand-sewed it.

-On the outside?

0:32:330:32:37

-Yes.

-Because you found it was easier to control by working on the outside?

0:32:370:32:41

It wouldn't stand up to any strain, however it's really wacky.

0:32:410:32:46

If Stuart's dress is cheese, this is chalk.

0:32:500:32:55

It couldn't be more different.

0:32:550:32:57

-No.

-But it is equally, in my mind, precise and elegant. It's lovely.

0:32:570:33:04

The only thing I would say, Ann, it's absolutely beautiful,

0:33:040:33:08

but you played safe.

0:33:080:33:10

What's interesting is you've done a lot of things that are similar

0:33:140:33:18

to Ann's, but you've decided to take that all the way through.

0:33:180:33:22

I don't think they are quite as symmetrical

0:33:220:33:26

perhaps as they could be.

0:33:260:33:29

Your points, they might not be straight, but they are superb.

0:33:290:33:33

-Show me.

-They blend in beautifully with the garment, we've got

0:33:330:33:36

no pokes or puckers, not all absolutely perfect,

0:33:360:33:40

this one's a bit drunk here, but you displayed some good techniques.

0:33:400:33:44

I...

0:33:510:33:53

I really like it.

0:33:530:33:55

I think, you know, you've adhered to your brief, which is

0:33:550:33:59

you've dramatically changed the shape of this dress.

0:33:590:34:02

The fact you've got this pleat popping out has produced this

0:34:020:34:05

almost bustle-like effect on the back, which really gives it

0:34:050:34:09

a beautiful silhouette from the side, as well as from the front.

0:34:090:34:13

It really creates a very dramatic shape.

0:34:130:34:16

This is very different to what we've seen from you so far

0:34:160:34:19

and I really like it.

0:34:190:34:22

A huge well done on your second challenge.

0:34:270:34:30

Normally, you'd be going home at this point, but your third

0:34:300:34:34

and final challenge of the semi-final is a really big one.

0:34:340:34:37

So if you don't mind, we'll start on it tonight.

0:34:370:34:40

Go, have a cup of tea, then come back to the sewing room

0:34:400:34:43

and we will begin.

0:34:430:34:45

At this point in the competition,

0:34:520:34:54

there are two people that are incredibly closely matched.

0:34:540:34:58

Both Ann and Lauren have delivered two excellent challenges.

0:34:580:35:04

Lauren is excelling. She has stopped being a rabbit in the headlights.

0:35:040:35:08

She has taken on board everything we have set her

0:35:080:35:10

and she is really doing some wonderful work.

0:35:100:35:13

I think, for me, at this moment in time, Stuart is the guy whose

0:35:130:35:17

sewing across the two challenges has not been as high as the others.

0:35:170:35:21

He's fun. He enjoys himself. He has a go.

0:35:210:35:23

And he's grown throughout the competition

0:35:230:35:26

and he just keeps surprising us with his style.

0:35:260:35:29

Sandra is playing a bit safe.

0:35:290:35:31

I think I'd like to see her take a few risks

0:35:310:35:34

because she's such a good needlewoman and she needs to believe in herself.

0:35:340:35:38

For the last challenge of the semi-final,

0:35:380:35:40

the models have returned...

0:35:400:35:42

Hello!

0:35:420:35:44

..to be fitted with a garment

0:35:440:35:46

that will test the sewers' tailoring skills.

0:35:460:35:49

The judges wanted to give you tonight just to measure

0:35:490:35:51

your models and cut your fabric.

0:35:510:35:54

They would like you to make a jacket.

0:35:540:35:57

Your time starts now.

0:35:570:35:59

The sewers have an hour-and-a-half on the clock tonight.

0:35:590:36:02

They have chosen the pattern and fabric for their jacket

0:36:020:36:05

and had the chance to practice making them at home.

0:36:050:36:08

I did do a pre-run and used my daughter.

0:36:080:36:11

She was over the moon when it was on.

0:36:110:36:14

It's still half-finished, but there we go.

0:36:140:36:17

But with so many parts to each jacket,

0:36:170:36:19

constructing it to fit their model perfectly...

0:36:190:36:21

If you inhale, breathe in.

0:36:210:36:24

..means there are plenty of opportunities for mistakes

0:36:240:36:27

to be made and the Savile Row judge will spot any errors.

0:36:270:36:30

Is this the hardest thing you've asked our sewers to do?

0:36:300:36:33

I think it is the most technically demanding.

0:36:330:36:35

We've been testing dress-making techniques today.

0:36:350:36:38

In this challenge, we're going to test their ability to tailor a garment.

0:36:380:36:41

-What are you after? Simplicity or beautiful execution?

-Both.

0:36:410:36:45

The more ambitious they are, the more we will credit them.

0:36:450:36:49

Although it looks simple, there is a lot of work goes on inside this.

0:36:490:36:54

I'm going to have to cut corners, a lot of corners.

0:36:540:36:58

Ann's jacket is the classic boucle tweed,

0:36:580:37:01

edge-to-edge style with no collar.

0:37:010:37:03

This is the fabric that I'm using and it comes from Linton Tweed.

0:37:040:37:08

I bought it over the Internet.

0:37:080:37:11

That famous boucle tweed that everybody knows

0:37:110:37:13

and assumes is French, it's made in the north-west of England.

0:37:130:37:18

And it's wonderful.

0:37:180:37:20

And there are so many mills in Yorkshire and across Scotland

0:37:200:37:23

that are making for the very best couture houses

0:37:230:37:25

and fashion houses in France and Italy and we don't celebrate it.

0:37:250:37:29

-We don't know about it.

-It's beautiful.

0:37:290:37:31

It's something to be incredibly proud of.

0:37:310:37:33

I've tried to do something on the jacket that I haven't done before.

0:37:330:37:38

The collar overlaps and the jacket just comes edge to edge.

0:37:380:37:44

Sandra's softly tailored fine burgundy tweed jacket

0:37:440:37:47

has a wrap collar. But the fabric is already giving her problems.

0:37:470:37:51

It is going to fray rather badly.

0:37:510:37:55

My first step, I wasn't going to, will be to neaten all the edges

0:37:550:37:59

before I even do anything else, to stop it fraying.

0:37:590:38:03

The fabric that I'm using for the main part of the jacket

0:38:030:38:08

is what's called boiled wool.

0:38:080:38:10

The benefit of it is when you cut it, the edges don't fray.

0:38:100:38:14

Stuart's boiled wool will become a boxy loose-fitting

0:38:140:38:17

Alpine-style jacket with a stand-up Nehru collar.

0:38:170:38:21

Stuart and, to a certain extent, Sandra, are making their garment

0:38:210:38:24

and going to fit it on the fly which may work, it may not.

0:38:240:38:29

Ann is taking the approach we would take in Savile Row,

0:38:290:38:32

which is she is basting the jacket together,

0:38:320:38:35

very lightly sewing it together

0:38:350:38:37

and then it's not sewn properly until it fits correctly.

0:38:370:38:39

So you can make quite substantial adjustments very simply.

0:38:390:38:42

This won't be my actual jacket.

0:38:440:38:46

This is the toile, which is a sort of practice jacket

0:38:460:38:49

so that you can get the sizing right.

0:38:490:38:51

Lauren is first making her jacket in a cheap calico cotton.

0:38:510:38:55

Once it fits perfectly, she will use this toile as a template.

0:38:550:38:59

I've had so many issues with fit before

0:38:590:39:02

that I wanted to try and do every attempt to make the jacket fit.

0:39:020:39:07

Her tweed-fitted hacking jacket will be lined with pink satin.

0:39:070:39:12

-I've almost made the toile.

-Wow! That's good going.

0:39:120:39:16

But then I've not cut out anything else.

0:39:160:39:19

That sounds so much lengthier process than Stuart or Sandra.

0:39:190:39:25

At this point, your impressions are that Lauren and Ann

0:39:250:39:28

are doing it classically and will create a better garment?

0:39:280:39:32

They've got a much better chance of creating a better garment.

0:39:320:39:35

Guys, you have one minute left

0:39:350:39:37

and then you can go home and have a lie down.

0:39:370:39:40

I'm going to cut the lining and then I'm ready for construction.

0:39:400:39:43

I'm just hoping a good night's sleep will bring me back refreshed.

0:39:460:39:51

And I hope everybody else gets a bad night's sleep!

0:39:510:39:54

# You make my heart go tick a-tick a-tock

0:40:010:40:05

# Tick a-tick tock... #

0:40:050:40:06

Six hours remaining in the last challenge of the semi-final.

0:40:060:40:10

Stitch the shoulder seams, that's the next thing I've got to do.

0:40:100:40:14

Stuart and Sandra start sewing their jackets.

0:40:140:40:17

But Ann and Lauren are still fitting their garments to their models.

0:40:190:40:22

They've got a way to go before their fabric goes under the machine.

0:40:220:40:25

-Lauren, how are you feeling?

-Not great, to be honest.

-Why?

0:40:250:40:28

All I can hear is the buzz of sewing machines.

0:40:280:40:32

-So do you feel behind?

-And here I am, cutting out.

0:40:320:40:35

You've got about ten minutes left...

0:40:350:40:37

I'm kidding. You're going to be absolutely fine.

0:40:370:40:39

Good! Brilliant! Done!

0:40:390:40:42

Sandra is now having to go back

0:40:420:40:45

and neaten her fraying fabric with an overlocker.

0:40:450:40:48

It cuts and encloses the edges but can cause the fabric to stretch.

0:40:480:40:52

Are you finding it falling apart

0:40:520:40:54

and that's why you are doing all the overlocking?

0:40:540:40:57

I'm gutted I had to overlock.

0:40:570:40:58

I hadn't planned time for overlocking.

0:40:580:41:00

The problem is it takes so long, doesn't it?

0:41:000:41:03

Stuart has already machined the front

0:41:030:41:05

and back of his jacket together.

0:41:050:41:07

Stuart's making a jacket that isn't totally fitted.

0:41:070:41:11

It is a more casual jacket.

0:41:110:41:13

Does that still have to have the same fit?

0:41:130:41:15

It is not going to fit the body in the sense that this one has

0:41:150:41:19

that very sculpted Savile Row shape to it

0:41:190:41:21

through the side seam, but we're still going to be expecting it

0:41:210:41:25

to hang straight up and down.

0:41:250:41:28

A standard jacket off-the-rack is cut for an idealised form,

0:41:280:41:32

but everyone is different.

0:41:320:41:34

If we take Stuart's model, for example. If you just come in...

0:41:340:41:37

Hello, Alfonso.

0:41:370:41:39

If you look, what you see, looking at him,

0:41:390:41:41

come here and have a look,

0:41:410:41:43

-is this shoulder is significantly lower than that one.

-Yes! Oh!

0:41:430:41:47

And what's going to happen there is the jacket is going to drop and swing away that side.

0:41:470:41:51

We are going to be looking for that today.

0:41:510:41:54

Yeah, OK. Thank you.

0:41:540:41:56

Ann is fitting her model for the second time

0:41:560:41:59

with her loosely sewn jacket

0:41:590:42:00

and she has realised she needs to make an adjustment.

0:42:000:42:03

This is called a floating chest piece

0:42:030:42:07

and it's a piece of canvas that you put in this area,

0:42:070:42:11

and because my model is quite full-busted

0:42:110:42:15

and has a sort of hollow in the chest there,

0:42:150:42:19

this fills up that hollow.

0:42:190:42:21

She is very methodically going through it. I love her process.

0:42:210:42:25

Of everyone here, it's as close to the way we do it.

0:42:250:42:27

I just hope she gets it finished.

0:42:270:42:30

Stuart is going to have to finish his to a quite exceptional standard.

0:42:300:42:35

In the fitting he did, he chucked it on the model for a few seconds

0:42:350:42:40

and said, "That looks fine."

0:42:400:42:42

So it really had better be a good fit.

0:42:420:42:46

Sandra is actually overlocking everything and I think

0:42:460:42:49

only because her fabric, when she cut it out, it just started to fall apart.

0:42:490:42:54

Three hours have gone in the challenge

0:42:570:43:00

and Lauren still hasn't started sewing her jacket together.

0:43:000:43:03

And that's not her only problem.

0:43:050:43:08

I've lost, basically I've lost a bit of my jacket.

0:43:140:43:17

I've not got enough fabric.

0:43:200:43:22

With one vital piece missing,

0:43:230:43:26

she is at a standstill and might not be able to finish the challenge.

0:43:260:43:29

I can smell the tension.

0:43:360:43:38

Four-and-a-half hours to go.

0:43:380:43:41

Every week on the show, we give you a how-to guide.

0:43:410:43:44

How to make something lovely for the home.

0:43:440:43:47

This week, curtains.

0:43:470:43:50

Cut your fabric and lining material to size.

0:43:510:43:55

Press and hem both panels.

0:43:550:43:57

Place them on top of each other, leaving the lining

0:43:580:44:01

around five centimetres shorter than the curtain fabric at the bottom.

0:44:010:44:04

Pin together then stitch the lining to the curtain along the side seams.

0:44:040:44:09

At the top edge, fold in both layers

0:44:090:44:11

and pin the heading tape along the width of the curtain.

0:44:110:44:15

This is where you will attach the hooks.

0:44:150:44:18

Fold the raw edges under the tape and stitch it in position.

0:44:180:44:23

Tuck in curtain weights along the bottom hem and hand-sew them in.

0:44:240:44:27

This will help it hang smoothly.

0:44:270:44:31

Neaten the edges by folding in the hem on all remaining sides

0:44:310:44:34

and corners and hand finish.

0:44:340:44:37

Press and lightly steam on the wrong side up.

0:44:370:44:41

Finally, draw up the strings from both ends of the tape,

0:44:410:44:44

distributing the gathers evenly, and secure with a knot.

0:44:440:44:49

Your curtains are now ready to hang.

0:44:500:44:52

The sewers have four hours left to finish their jackets...

0:44:570:45:01

..and Lauren needs to make up valuable time.

0:45:070:45:10

I just thought I'd lost a bit but I found it, so panic over.

0:45:100:45:16

I do really want to win.

0:45:160:45:18

I know I can do it, it's just doing it in the time.

0:45:180:45:21

It's just really hard.

0:45:210:45:23

One of us is going to be leaving.

0:45:230:45:25

I don't want to see anybody go and I don't want to see myself go.

0:45:250:45:29

I'm pretending it's not going to happen

0:45:290:45:31

and I'm just trying to keep as focused as I can.

0:45:310:45:34

Ann is the only sewer to have chosen a tweed fabric with a pattern.

0:45:360:45:41

When I put this on,

0:45:410:45:43

the stripes of the jacket match up with the pink stripes going across.

0:45:430:45:50

With Patrick's eagle eye on us today,

0:45:500:45:52

they're going to match,

0:45:520:45:54

they're going to match as well as I can get them to match.

0:45:540:45:57

Once the main body of the jackets are sewn together,

0:45:570:46:01

the sleeves can be fitted into the armholes.

0:46:010:46:05

This is the bit that I'm most nervous about messing up.

0:46:050:46:08

I'm putting my first sleeve in.

0:46:090:46:12

The sleeve head is bigger than the hole it's going into.

0:46:120:46:16

So this bit here is bigger than the bit it is being inserted into.

0:46:160:46:21

So it literally needs to curve

0:46:210:46:23

and be gathered round to actually mould and sit into the armhole,

0:46:230:46:26

and that is quite a skilful thing to do

0:46:260:46:30

because you are making a large area sit smoothly and roundly

0:46:300:46:34

into a smaller area.

0:46:340:46:37

It's a delicate process called easing.

0:46:370:46:40

Most sewers pin the fabric in place before machining

0:46:400:46:43

to ensure the sleeve head is gathered without puckers

0:46:430:46:46

or pleats into the smaller armhole.

0:46:460:46:49

The fabric, because it's stretchy,

0:46:500:46:52

all the way through the construction that's been a little bit of a pain

0:46:520:46:56

but now, I can actually stretch and put them together

0:46:560:46:59

and that's where a bit of give in the fabric

0:46:590:47:02

is actually really helpful.

0:47:020:47:04

But not everyone is having to ease their sleeves.

0:47:040:47:08

Bit tight around the back.

0:47:080:47:10

Sandra's raglan sleeves attach higher up at the collar

0:47:100:47:14

and that's where her easing issue lies.

0:47:140:47:17

It fits around the jacket like that.

0:47:170:47:20

But overlocking all the edges of her fraying fabric

0:47:200:47:23

has caused the hole for Sandra's collar to stretch out of shape.

0:47:230:47:27

It fits but not as nicely as I would have liked it to.

0:47:270:47:32

-It's now larger than her collar piece.

-I shall just ease that in.

0:47:320:47:36

We will have to sort of stretch it a bit.

0:47:360:47:38

It will stretch because it's wool,

0:47:380:47:40

but I don't really want to give it that much.

0:47:400:47:42

Half an hour left, that's half an hour.

0:47:490:47:51

There is just time for hemming and any decorative touches.

0:47:520:47:56

The fabric itself has got a mind of its own

0:47:560:47:58

so I'm having to speak to it very, very firmly.

0:47:580:48:01

I'm feeling rushed.

0:48:010:48:05

The nature of the jacket is the fact it's an outer garment that has to look smart.

0:48:070:48:10

We're looking for really beautiful, clean lines.

0:48:100:48:13

We're looking for a very, very even distribution of fullness.

0:48:130:48:16

Everyone, you have ten minutes left. That's ten minutes.

0:48:160:48:19

Talk about working fast!

0:48:210:48:23

I'm going to be sewing right to the end.

0:48:230:48:26

We are looking for beautiful shaping and beautiful shoulders.

0:48:260:48:31

I've got another sleeve to do.

0:48:310:48:33

I shan't get the lining fastened down.

0:48:330:48:35

They are just going to crucify me!

0:48:350:48:38

It can't be a soppy garment.

0:48:380:48:40

It's got to be precise.

0:48:400:48:42

All right, then!

0:48:420:48:44

I've got cramp in my fingers!

0:48:440:48:46

I know it's not perfect but I think I have done enough.

0:48:470:48:51

You have one minute left. One minute.

0:48:510:48:56

More haste, less speed.

0:48:560:48:59

Take that to Savile Row, Patrick!

0:48:590:49:01

Five, four,

0:49:010:49:05

three, two, one.

0:49:050:49:07

-Brilliant.

-SHE CLAPS

0:49:080:49:11

Absolutely exhausted. Really exhausted.

0:49:130:49:17

It was a sewing marathon.

0:49:170:49:20

I don't think I've pressed it as much as I could.

0:49:200:49:23

My hand-sewing isn't neat because I was doing it so quickly.

0:49:230:49:26

I think my jacket looks OK on my model.

0:49:260:49:29

In fact, I think she looks rather good in it.

0:49:290:49:31

Everybody else has managed to finish and I haven't.

0:49:310:49:35

I would say I'm going home.

0:49:350:49:37

Lauren, please bring your girl up.

0:49:370:49:40

OK.

0:49:510:49:52

It is sitting quite level all the way around.

0:49:570:50:00

The shoulders look like they are nice fit.

0:50:000:50:04

You have kept the softness in the front, which I think is nice.

0:50:040:50:07

Can I just have a quick look at the back?

0:50:070:50:09

-It is a bit full there.

-That's fine.

0:50:090:50:11

You need a bit of back drape there to give you a bit of movement.

0:50:110:50:14

If it's drum tight across the back, that's not going to work.

0:50:140:50:17

Can we have a look at the inside?

0:50:170:50:19

The finish on the inside is good.

0:50:210:50:24

You'd neatened absolutely everything

0:50:240:50:26

so there's no falling apart with this jacket, is there?

0:50:260:50:29

Initially, I'm looking just at the front tipping up,

0:50:450:50:47

which is a shame,

0:50:470:50:50

-because this bit is just sitting up a bit.

-I know.

0:50:500:50:53

So the collar, sitting really well at the front. Nice and flat.

0:50:530:50:57

-Your sleeve seam is just slightly tipping forward, isn't it?

-Yes.

0:50:570:51:01

Because you have overlocked the fabric and it stretched slightly.

0:51:010:51:05

Overlooking stretched everything.

0:51:050:51:07

It's pulling it out of shape as you were working it, which is a shame.

0:51:070:51:10

Are we going to have a look inside?

0:51:100:51:12

So the lining has been put in nicely. Not finished, but...

0:51:120:51:16

Obviously, we've run out of time

0:51:160:51:18

but what you have managed to do inside is neat and well managed.

0:51:180:51:22

Slightly out of balance but not horrendously so.

0:51:360:51:39

We're just not quite the perfect circle around the neck

0:51:390:51:43

but a really nice curve into the back.

0:51:430:51:45

So we've got a vertical line coming down here which means

0:51:450:51:49

that your sleeve has been set in really symmetrically

0:51:490:51:53

and you've got a lovely vertical line so it's got balance.

0:51:530:51:56

Your fabric is just shouting, "this is a straight line",

0:51:560:51:59

and you've done it.

0:51:590:52:00

Round the back you've got a horizontal line

0:52:000:52:03

going across the back here, balancing across from shoulder to shoulder.

0:52:030:52:07

Shall we have a look inside?

0:52:070:52:09

I think the finish inside is worthy of the finish on the outside.

0:52:090:52:13

So there is a lot in here that is done very much to the standard

0:52:130:52:16

that we would do it on Savile Row.

0:52:160:52:19

The sleeves seem to be tipping off the shoulder is a little bit

0:52:360:52:40

and perhaps could come across a bit.

0:52:400:52:42

-I think they're supposed to be a bit higher up, aren't they?

-Yes.

0:52:420:52:45

I'm a bit disappointed that the binding around the top hasn't gone

0:52:450:52:49

right into the seam. You have done that both sides.

0:52:490:52:51

I'm going to undo it

0:52:510:52:54

and just see how it falls when it is not buttoned up.

0:52:540:52:56

What we are seeing now is what I suspected.

0:52:560:53:00

I think when you did your fitting, I was watching,

0:53:000:53:03

I don't think you spent long enough fitting him.

0:53:030:53:06

It's here where, because he;s significantly dropped that side,

0:53:060:53:10

-you know, you can see it at the bottom there quite clearly.

-Yeah.

0:53:100:53:15

The sewers can do no more.

0:53:240:53:26

They can only wait for Patrick and May's decision.

0:53:260:53:29

It would be wonderful to be in the final. Just being part of it.

0:53:290:53:33

I think, I think that is what will be so great.

0:53:330:53:39

"Oh, I've got through to the final!"

0:53:390:53:42

I think I would feel a little guilty if I went through,

0:53:420:53:49

in the fact that Stuart did as well as me.

0:53:490:53:53

I'm sad that the challenges have come to an end,

0:53:530:53:57

but I hope against hope

0:53:570:53:59

that maybe I will get the chance to do it all one more time.

0:53:590:54:01

I want one of those places in the final.

0:54:010:54:05

I've put so much effort in, to not get one of those places,

0:54:050:54:08

I would be devastated.

0:54:080:54:10

You are about to choose who goes into the final.

0:54:140:54:17

Why don't you take out the pieces that have worried you the most.

0:54:170:54:21

There goes Sandra's jacket. And for you, Patrick?

0:54:230:54:26

I think we have to put Stuart's dress alteration.

0:54:260:54:31

Let's talk about Stuart in general. Sometimes he's completely wowed you.

0:54:310:54:34

I've loved watching him develop and I have loved watching him sew

0:54:340:54:37

but I think in the final,

0:54:370:54:39

we need three people who are going to wow us with their sewing capability.

0:54:390:54:44

Sandra is clearly a better sewer but she continually leaves things

0:54:440:54:50

incomplete, and I think that is her great difficulty.

0:54:500:54:53

Stuart is not such a great sewer but he gets the job done

0:54:530:54:57

and I think therein lies the difficulty that we face,

0:54:570:55:00

because we don't want to get into the last week

0:55:000:55:03

and see half finished garments.

0:55:030:55:05

As you know, every week, the judges choose their best piece.

0:55:170:55:22

Our favourite piece for this week was...

0:55:220:55:26

Ann's jacket which was, quite simply, beautiful.

0:55:260:55:30

APPLAUSE

0:55:300:55:31

-Oh, how lovely!

-Gorgeous.

0:55:310:55:34

Now, somebody's going to be leaving The Sewing Bee.

0:55:340:55:40

The judges found it incredibly difficult

0:55:400:55:42

because you've all just done extraordinary things

0:55:420:55:45

at such a high standard,

0:55:450:55:47

so I'm incredibly sorry to say the person who is leaving us...

0:55:470:55:52

..is Stuart.

0:55:570:55:59

I'm sorry. I don't want you to go.

0:55:590:56:02

Well done. Well done.

0:56:020:56:04

-We will miss you.

-Absolutely fine.

0:56:040:56:06

We wanted to say how hard it was

0:56:060:56:09

because you have listened to everything we said.

0:56:090:56:12

You've brought so much of a sense of fun to sewing

0:56:120:56:16

that you need to be applauded for doing that

0:56:160:56:19

because, you know, there is a joy in everything you do here.

0:56:190:56:23

Thank you very much.

0:56:230:56:24

Thank you for letting me have the opportunity to stay as long.

0:56:240:56:27

-Are you crying, Sandra?

-No.

0:56:270:56:30

Thank you so much for the opportunity. I really appreciate it.

0:56:350:56:39

For the judges to say that I brought a sense of fun

0:56:390:56:42

and a joy to sewing, that's why I do it.

0:56:420:56:46

And if I've communicated that, fabulous.

0:56:490:56:52

We shall really miss you.

0:56:520:56:54

-I know.

-It's been lovely knowing you.

0:56:540:56:57

Ann, Lauren and Sandra will see this journey through

0:56:570:57:01

right to the very end, and I'm sad I won't be there with them,

0:57:010:57:05

but the bigger picture is that I've made friends here

0:57:050:57:07

that I'll have for the rest of my life.

0:57:070:57:11

Come here. Mm! Well done.

0:57:110:57:14

Well done.

0:57:160:57:18

I'm buying you a bottle of wine tonight!

0:57:200:57:23

Now, THAT, I will take you up on!

0:57:230:57:27

If you want to sew or be creative or do anything else, do it.

0:57:270:57:32

Enjoy it, because anyone can be creative.

0:57:320:57:36

It doesn't matter how old you are, male, female,

0:57:360:57:39

or what your experience or how much money you've got or how little,

0:57:390:57:42

you just enjoy it.

0:57:420:57:44

I've just got to try and do it for him.

0:57:550:57:57

I've got to try and win for Stuart, to justify my place here.

0:57:570:58:02

At the final, Lauren, Sandra

0:58:030:58:07

and Ann tackle a complex pattern for a man's shirt.

0:58:070:58:11

This is definitely the hardest. So complicated.

0:58:110:58:14

Tension mounts when they're asked to demonstrate hand-sewing skills.

0:58:140:58:18

It's like the blind leading the blind.

0:58:180:58:20

Come on, you are great.

0:58:200:58:23

And they create stunning evening gowns...

0:58:230:58:26

The fight isn't over yet.

0:58:260:58:28

..before one of them takes the title.

0:58:280:58:31

The winner of The Great British Sewing Bee is...

0:58:310:58:37

Feeling ready to sharpen up your sewing skills?

0:58:390:58:42

Visit...

0:58:420:58:43

..to find tips and ideas featured in the series.

0:58:450:58:48

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0:58:580:59:01

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