Episode 7 The Great British Sewing Bee


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Episode 7

Amateur sewers test their sewing and dressmaking skills. The four remaining sewers face three challenges - none of which permit a pattern for guidance.


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It's the semifinal of the Great British Sewing Bee.

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Over the past six weeks

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our sewers have had to create some extraordinarily difficult items,

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from nylon anoraks to taffeta dresses.

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Well, this week they're about to face the biggest hurdle of all,

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because they have to make some amazing garments with no pattern -

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serious.

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Last week the quarterfinal saw the Sewing Bee go back in time.

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I shall never use a 1930s pattern again.

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Heather's blouse won her the pattern challenge for the third time.

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This collar is beautifully flat. The shirring is neat.

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Well done.

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Chinelo proved she could make do and mend like no other...

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It's pretty ingenious, actually.

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APPLAUSE

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..and Lynda's 1940s coat was awarded garment of the week.

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Oh, my God!

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But it was David who missed out on a place in the semifinal...

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-Oh!

-Sorry!

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..and whose departure brought everyone to tears.

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I'm really sad that David's gone. He's been my hero.

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This week, a place in the final is at stake...

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This is the scary part!

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You could cut the air with a knife.

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So who will fall at the last hurdle?

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I feel sick!

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That's really exactly what I didn't want to do.

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Three challenges remain before The Great British Sewing Bee Final,

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and just three of the home sewers will make it through.

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I'm absolutely delighted to be in the semifinal!

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I can't actually believe I'm here.

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Learning support assistant Lynda

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has won garment of the week three times,

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but has been inconsistent across the challenges.

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-It's squint.

-I know.

-Sorry.

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Lynda's work varies. We need her to produce one of her best weeks

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to get her place in the final.

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Now I've got to this stage,

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there's that little, little butterfly-in-my-tummy feeling

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of being on the edge of something massive.

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Yoga teacher Tamara creates ambitious garments

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and has constantly surprised the judges with her originality.

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It's just amazing!

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I think she needs to strike a good balance between her natural

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exuberance and giving herself enough time to finish everything

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to the standard that we're looking for.

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Now I'm here in the semifinal I can see the finishing line

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and I think I want to make a big dash for it.

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Dressage trainer Heather is the most traditional sewer of the group.

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You have got a beautiful handpicked sewn-in zip.

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Heather is technically very, very good.

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However, sometimes she's playing safe,

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and I think if she plays it too safe, she could be in danger.

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The final is just so close,

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and there is no room for error - every stitch is going to count.

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Media graduate Chinelo is the youngest in the Sewing Bee

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and the only sewer not to have won the pattern challenge -

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although she excels at the others.

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I think it's incredibly impactful.

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The fitting is exceptional.

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Chinelo does have that natural flair for balance and fit.

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This week we've taken away the patterns,

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and this might just play to Chinelo's strengths.

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Congratulations on making it through to the semifinal.

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So, you know that the first challenge

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is when we give you a pattern.

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So, Patrick, what have you got for them today?

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Well, we've tested you on pretty much every pattern under the sun,

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so this week we'd like you to make a dress,

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but we're not going to give you a pattern at all.

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-Right.

-Oh, my goodness!

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-We're going to have to make one ourselves!

-No, no!

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Heather wants to weep already.

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We're giving you a mannequin,

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three metres of fabric and some pins.

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And what we would like you to do is cut it, pleat it, gather it,

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shape it, drape it,

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and we would love you to make us a dress using all those techniques.

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You do have three hours.

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Your time starts...

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now. Go.

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Oh, gosh.

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Does it drape?

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I think it's going to be fun, this challenge -

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I've not done anything like this before.

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I like this, it's pretty.

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Yes, I'm going to go for this one.

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I'm looking for a drapey fabric.

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But I don't want it too flimsy, cos I don't like floppy fabric.

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I'm really excited about this challenge, actually.

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It's a chance to really be quite creative...

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and I love that.

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There's not three metres on this.

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Oh, there is. Just three metres.

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I'm looking for drapey fabric, and I think I've got it.

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It feels all nice and soft, and...

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Hopefully it's going to be kind to me.

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I have done this,

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but generally I've had a lot more time to play with it.

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It's a lovely bit of cloth, as my mother would say.

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Let's see if I can get it right this time, eh, kids?

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Course you will.

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The only thing I've seen is when I've been in fabric shops

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and they've got the material pinned onto the mannequins,

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and I've always thought, "Wow, that's fabulous!

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"But I don't think I could ever do it."

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And here I am.

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Patrick and May, why have you chosen a no-pattern week?

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Any good sewer needs to be able to create garments from scratch,

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and for that they need to be able to either draft a pattern

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or drape a garment.

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I mean, it can be the case that people don't feel confident

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to make things without a pattern, but there are other ways.

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I'm going be making a halter neck sort of dress

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that's going to drape from the bust right down.

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This is going to go around the neck, like so.

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This is the first time I'm doing this,

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so I'm just going to be going off on a whim here.

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Chinelo and Lynda have both started by immediately draping

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and roughly pinning the fabric on the mannequin.

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What you doing?

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Right, making the skirt,

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then is going to be draped over the shoulders.

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But somehow I've got to figure... I want to make it into a top

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with some sort of fancy something, and make it up as I go along.

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Heather and Tamara have taken a more methodical approach.

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My plan is to make a little sketch first.

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Then I'll know what shapes I want on the mannequin,

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and then I'll cut it out.

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Well, I'm just sketching through a few little ideas.

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So, I'm just going to play and see how I feel about the fabric

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and then we'll crack on.

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Tamara, Tamara - can I tell you what I love about you?

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First thing you did was draw.

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-Yes.

-Have you worked without a pattern before?

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Occasionally, yeah.

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Would you describe this as a tea dress?

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-Yes, very much a day dress, tea dress.

-OK, gorgeous.

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-A picnic dress.

-Picnic! Who doesn't love a picnic?

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OK, where do you begin?

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So you did... I love the fact you started with a belt.

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What I'm going to do is cut my pieces out and tuck them into that,

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so it helps me get it all together.

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OK, gorgeous.

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-Morning.

-Good morning.

-How are you?

-All right.

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-So, you've got fabric draped on the bias.

-I have.

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-It helps drape, doesn't it?

-Yeah.

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-Because you've got this cross-way grain.

-Yeah.

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Are you going to do anything more with all of this excess here?

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I'm going to cut this off, so it's going to be bias draped body,

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-and then I'm going to make a skirt part...

-On the straight, or...?

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-I'm going to make it on the straight.

-OK.

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-I think it looks great.

-It's a good start.

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-Thanks.

-Yeah.

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I'm actually pinning to the mannequin at this stage.

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Once I've finished I'll go round and baste stitch the whole thing.

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Then I'll take it off and sew it.

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With designs decided upon,

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the next challenge is securing the shapes in place...

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I won't be needing that!

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Ooh!

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The pins are on the floor.

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..with pins

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What are you...?!

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Whoops!

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Argh!

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I'm getting down.

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Hurry up, Claudia, I need those pins.

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All right!

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-Hello, Chinelo.

-Hello.

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You've not cut this piece of fabric at all.

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I have, I have cut out the top half of it that I need,

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this is not what the top half of the dress is going to look like.

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Ah, OK. You're just pinning this out of the way for now.

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I'm just holding this up because I want that tulip shape.

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What an interesting shape.

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-OK.

-OK.

-Thank you!

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But as designs begin to form,

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it's not long before ideas start to change.

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I'm trying to fit the top onto the mannequin.

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I'm actually thinking this might look nice as an Empire line.

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See, this is how things are with me. This is what I like to do.

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I like to fiddle about and change things.

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It's lovely, I love it.

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(How do I do this, how do I do this, how do I do this?)

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OK...

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I'm doing a more fitted bustier at the top,

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because I think it'll show a bit more technique.

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Have you changed your plan?

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I did change my plan!

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Me too.

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Yeah? What did you go with instead?

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I've gone with something completely different.

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Hello, Tamara. What stage are you at now?

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-You've draped...?

-I've draped it, so I'm going to stitch in my tucks.

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I'm going to hem this neckline here.

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What are you going to do...?

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-Oh, you've got tucks on the shoulders, as well.

-Yeah.

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So I've got tucking there and some tucking at the waist,

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-and then for the skirt I'm going to attach a separate piece.

-OK.

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One hour gone.

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Right, let's have a go tacking that in place.

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I'm just basting my pleats in.

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Stabilising it, so when I take it off the mannequin, they stay.

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Loose temporary basting stitches

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keep the pleats and tucks in place...

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I just don't want it to go, "Swoosh!"

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..to ensure the fabric retains its shape once taken off the mannequin

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Oh! I've gone all the way round.

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This is the scary part!

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It's not totally falling apart.

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So, I'm just detaching the pins.

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Really want to make sure my pleats are in line.

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Sometimes you just have to close your eyes

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and get it under the sewing machine.

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Draping fabric is the most ancient way of making clothes there is -

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just look at the Greeks and Romans.

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But draping fabric on a mannequin, that was made popular in the 1930s

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by a Parisian couturier who created a brand-new look

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that was going to be copied by generations to come.

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The availability of supple fabrics like chiffon and satin,

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following the end of World War I,

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enabled fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet

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to pioneer a new way of designing clothes,

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and she began to hone her art.

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What Madeleine Vionnet did was work directly on a stand,

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and the original stands were quarter scale, so she worked in miniature.

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So she didn't sketch designs, as most designers would do,

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she worked directly with fabric and with the human body.

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Born in 1876, Madeleine Vionnet

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started work as a seamstress aged 12,

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and after working for eminent fashion houses,

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she founded her own Parisian salon

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referred to as the "Temple of Fashion".

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One of Madeleine Vionnet's great innovations

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was the use of the bias cut.

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So in traditional fabrics you have a warp and a weft -

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by cutting across the fabric at a 45 degree angle

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you create the bias, which gives you stretch and elasticity

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that allowed her to create dresses that moved with the body

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and celebrated the form.

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After World War I women's fashion was at a crossroad.

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For some women, having tasted independence

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doing their bit for the war effort,

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they wanted to wear something more liberated.

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Well, it took Madame Vionnet's determination and visionary approach

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to make that happen.

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Before she came along

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it was normal for a woman to wear layers and layers of clothing.

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A heavily restricted corset, a bust enhancer, a bodice -

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layers to create an artificial shape.

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Vionnet combined her interest in ancient Greek art

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and her background in lingerie making,

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to create exquisite dresses

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that flowed over the contours of a woman's natural body

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It was completely perfect timing for Madeleine Vionnet to come along

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and be a woman who was creating clothes for other women

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who wanted to wear less restricted clothing

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that allowed them a physical freedom to go with the political freedom

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they were demanding.

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Considered one of the greatest couturiers of the 20th century,

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Vionnet's designs saw her become a true trendsetter

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for 1930s fashion.

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She remains an inspiration to many home sewers

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who choose to make beautiful clothes without using a pattern.

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Sewers, you have one hour to go.

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-HEATHER: You are kidding.

-One hour.

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That is just the most depressing thing I have heard today.

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This is my first armhole pleat that I'm stitching in.

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People are so focused on what they are doing.

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You could cut the air with a knife.

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At the moment I've got two pieces - my skirt and bodice.

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Once this is joined up, then I'll have a bit of fun with draping.

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I HOPE it'll be fun.

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Not much time. Definitely panicking about the time.

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At this stage of the competition

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having an unfinished garment is not even an option.

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Cos third place, even, isn't that fantastic now!

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I think the atmosphere is very concentrated.

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Everybody's just trying so hard to get this challenge done in the time.

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So, yeah. Hard concentration.

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Oh, God...

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That's really exactly what I didn't want to do.

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Seam ripper.

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I've just caught the front and the back here.

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Right, let's do it again.

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I'm a bit of a perfectionist,

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and if it's not entirely right I'm not happy with it.

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Tamara, what are you doing now?

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I'm just adding a bottom part of the skirt.

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Once I've added that, I'm going to zip up the back.

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-OK. What happened to your waistband?

-I scrapped that.

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There wasn't time.

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I'm literally just learning on the job, so...

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Well, that's kind of the point with this exercise -

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is that you slightly do it on the job.

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Some of you have planned more than others.

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Well, I did plan, and then I actually scrapped my plan,

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-because I felt it wouldn't work as well as this.

-Right.

-Yeah.

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I wanted to get as much drapey-drape as possible.

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All right. We'll get out of your way.

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That is lovely. That is a picnic dress, Patrick -

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you'd look good in it.

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Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.

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Now the top and bottom sections of the dresses are joined together...

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That'll have to do.

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..the finishing touches can be made.

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I'm just putting all my fabric to the side...

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and I'm making a massive dirty great big pleat.

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I'm playing.

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This is the fun bit.

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You probably think I'm going to pleat this -

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this is pleated so I'm thinking... whether to pleat...

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Decisions! I'm thinking. I don't know what to do.

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What are you doing here?

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-Playing.

-All I would say to you is don't do too much.

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-It can be a really simple dress.

-Really?

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-It doesn't need to be yards of drapery.

-Oh, right!

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Because what I really would like is a big bow,

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but I thought that wouldn't be enough.

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-You don't need to...

-Fabulous.

-..give us three metres of fabric...

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-Brilliant.

-..on that dress.

-That's great, then. That's great.

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Thank you!

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I love him.

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-Sewers, you have ten minutes. Ten minutes.

-Oh, my God.

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It's a bit long all the way round.

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Almost. Almost done.

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I have no idea whether I've got enough time here.

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I just don't know. Just don't know.

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I'm just sewing the band down on the front,

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and then it's just tidying up and sewing the bow on.

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-Quickly...

-Eight minutes.

-Argh!

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I'm just putting in a little bar at the back.

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This wasn't planned, but like many things,

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you don't know how something's going to turn out

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until you actually do them.

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-It's exciting, isn't it?

-Oh, yes!

0:17:510:17:53

I mean, this is the true Magical Mystery Sewing Tour, isn't it?

0:17:530:17:57

I don't know where my bow is going to go yet.

0:17:570:17:59

Looks quite nice there.

0:18:010:18:02

-Just about to do a rolled hem.

-No, there's no time!

0:18:040:18:08

No, there is.

0:18:080:18:09

Three minutes.

0:18:090:18:10

I shall be really disappointed if this doesn't work.

0:18:120:18:15

OK, we're done. We're done, finished.

0:18:190:18:21

You have to step away. Step away, Heather.

0:18:210:18:25

Let us grab the mannequins, take them next door to the judges.

0:18:250:18:29

# It's a great feeling

0:18:290:18:32

# To suddenly find the clouds are silver-lined

0:18:320:18:35

# When the sun breaks through... #

0:18:350:18:37

Four dresses made in just three hours without a pattern.

0:18:370:18:41

Chinelo, you come up first, please.

0:18:430:18:46

# As long as I've got someone to embrace

0:18:460:18:50

# As far as I'm concerned... #

0:18:500:18:54

I'm not sure the skirt works for me.

0:18:560:19:00

It isn't really a tulip. It's just hanging a little bit.

0:19:000:19:05

I actually love the shape, I love this tulip shape.

0:19:050:19:08

-Thanks, May.

-Not completely symmetrical.

0:19:080:19:11

But I think that it's ALMOST worked.

0:19:110:19:13

I think the bodice - it's not terrifically evenly sewn.

0:19:130:19:17

It's a bit lumpy-bumpy.

0:19:170:19:19

The skirt looks very well balanced, it flows well.

0:19:350:19:39

And I think the bow works very nicely.

0:19:390:19:43

And also your bodice is really well fitting,

0:19:430:19:46

it's very well executed.

0:19:460:19:47

I think it is a very good demonstration

0:19:470:19:49

of how you can build something on the mannequin.

0:19:490:19:52

You've used tucks for shaping at the waist,

0:20:050:20:08

and we've got some tucks under the armholes.

0:20:080:20:10

You've got some going one way and some going the other,

0:20:100:20:12

so you actually lose the effect.

0:20:120:20:14

I just feel sometimes they are fighting each other.

0:20:140:20:16

It feels a little bit overtucked,

0:20:160:20:20

I think in some instances, a dart would have cleaned it up

0:20:200:20:23

and actually given the draped sections a bit more impact.

0:20:230:20:26

You instantly see how much better the front is sitting

0:20:410:20:44

because it's on the bias, isn't it?

0:20:440:20:46

And I love this draped neckline, I think that works really well.

0:20:460:20:49

You've got all of these really nice pleats in the back,

0:20:490:20:52

which give it a good shape.

0:20:520:20:54

This pleat here, I'm not entirely convinced by.

0:20:540:20:58

I think if you'd stuck to your smaller pleats all the way round,

0:20:580:21:01

you would have had a bit more control,

0:21:010:21:03

whereas because your pleat is so deep, it's got caught in, inside.

0:21:030:21:08

Patrick and May will now reveal

0:21:100:21:12

who has been the least and the most successful

0:21:120:21:14

at draping a dress on the stand.

0:21:140:21:17

Fourth place is Tamara.

0:21:170:21:19

In third place, Chinelo.

0:21:200:21:23

In second place is Heather.

0:21:270:21:28

We liked the use of you bias cut on the bodice

0:21:280:21:31

and the drape of the neckline.

0:21:310:21:32

Which means, in first place, Lynda!

0:21:320:21:35

APPLAUSE

0:21:350:21:38

We felt that you had just executed the brief excellently

0:21:390:21:43

and finished it to a really high standard.

0:21:430:21:45

Thank you very much.

0:21:450:21:46

# Clap your hands... #

0:21:490:21:52

I am very, very happy.

0:21:520:21:54

It's a great start to the semifinal. I'm so pleased I can't tell you.

0:21:540:21:58

Coming last is always a bit rubbish,

0:21:580:22:01

but even more so when you're in the semifinals.

0:22:010:22:04

I do feel a bit vulnerable,

0:22:040:22:06

so everything I do after this has to really impress both of the judges.

0:22:060:22:11

That was a bit like a leg wax, I have to say.

0:22:110:22:14

Very painful, and I'm just glad it was over!

0:22:140:22:16

So, it was quite a good result.

0:22:180:22:19

OK, it's time for our second challenge.

0:22:230:22:25

As usual, our judges want our sewers to totally transform

0:22:250:22:28

a high-street garment.

0:22:280:22:30

This week it's a classic alteration,

0:22:300:22:33

but the judges want perfection.

0:22:330:22:35

We would like you to add a pair of sleeves to this dress.

0:22:420:22:47

We are looking for symmetry, we're looking for a good finish.

0:22:470:22:50

Now there are three measurements you need.

0:22:500:22:53

The depth of the armhole.

0:22:530:22:55

You need the circumference of the armhole,

0:22:550:22:58

and your mannequins have arms,

0:22:580:23:01

so you need to measure around the arm as well.

0:23:010:23:04

OK?

0:23:040:23:05

So-so?

0:23:050:23:07

All right.

0:23:070:23:08

Quite quiet. Enormous luck.

0:23:080:23:10

You have an hour and 45 minutes. Your time starts now.

0:23:100:23:14

When this challenge was announced, I thought, "Yes!"

0:23:190:23:23

But then I thought, "Actually, no."

0:23:230:23:25

Because you just don't know what they're looking for.

0:23:250:23:27

I know that they're looking for perfection -

0:23:270:23:29

this is the semifinals, after all.

0:23:290:23:31

What are you doing, Tamara?

0:23:310:23:32

What am I doing?

0:23:350:23:37

No idea.

0:23:370:23:38

I've made sleeves before, but not to put on a dress.

0:23:380:23:42

Not to be done in a dress that's sleeveless.

0:23:420:23:45

I've never done this before,

0:23:450:23:46

but I know what a sleeve looks like when it's flat -

0:23:460:23:49

it looks this shape.

0:23:490:23:51

This is actually probably one of the most difficult challenges

0:23:510:23:54

we've done, cos we're looking here for precision.

0:23:540:23:57

In order to do this challenge correctly,

0:23:570:23:59

-they're going to have to cut a pattern.

-Yes.

0:23:590:24:01

From scratch, and that's not an easy thing to do.

0:24:010:24:03

It's an interesting shape.

0:24:030:24:04

They need to understand how to draw that shape,

0:24:040:24:07

so that it fits snugly round the underarm

0:24:070:24:10

but then you've got some fullness to ease it over the top of the shoulder.

0:24:100:24:14

I am just working out the size.

0:24:170:24:20

It might take a couple of attempts, but I'll get there.

0:24:200:24:24

By taking the circumference and depth of the armhole,

0:24:240:24:27

the sewers can draft a pattern to create a sleeve

0:24:270:24:30

which is both a good fit and symmetrical.

0:24:300:24:32

May I ask you, what kind of sleeve are you going to make?

0:24:320:24:35

I'm going to have a little gathered top into a little puff.

0:24:350:24:39

Oh, lovely!

0:24:390:24:40

So, I'd like to make a little gathered puff sleeve,

0:24:400:24:44

so I need to make the top of my sleeve a bit wider

0:24:440:24:47

so I have enough room to gather at the top.

0:24:470:24:50

And I also want to gather around this part of the arm.

0:24:500:24:53

So, I'm just working out what the circumference of the actual arm is,

0:24:530:24:57

and then I'm going to allow a few more inches for my gathering.

0:24:570:25:01

This is going to be sort of tucked

0:25:010:25:03

to create fullness just around the head of the sleeve.

0:25:030:25:07

I'm always doing crazy little things with sleeves,

0:25:070:25:10

like all this, and funny little things.

0:25:100:25:12

I hardly ever do just like a standard set-in sleeve.

0:25:120:25:15

Lynda is the only one attempting sleeves with no gathers.

0:25:150:25:19

That's the sleeve that will set in to the armhole.

0:25:190:25:22

And that's the bit that's difficult, I would think, to get right.

0:25:220:25:25

Her sleeves will have to sit smooth and flat against the shoulder seam,

0:25:250:25:29

so it's crucial she takes accurate measurements

0:25:290:25:32

What kind of sleeve are you doing?

0:25:320:25:33

I'm thinking, down and then either into a cuff, if I've got time,

0:25:330:25:37

or it'll be a band and a loop and button.

0:25:370:25:40

Did you draw a pattern?

0:25:400:25:41

Yes, ish.

0:25:410:25:43

Let me have a look at it.

0:25:430:25:45

I think it might be too big up there.

0:25:450:25:47

The thing is, the problem for me is, I'm not a measurer.

0:25:470:25:50

I do everything by looking.

0:25:500:25:52

I know, but today you have to measure.

0:25:520:25:55

Well, I have. Ish.

0:25:550:25:56

Oh...

0:25:560:25:58

Just going to look at some fabric.

0:25:590:26:01

Once they've drafted their pattern,

0:26:010:26:03

the sewers should choose an appropriate fabric.

0:26:030:26:06

I need quite a stiff fabric for the look I'm going for with my sleeve.

0:26:110:26:15

I need quite a bit of structure.

0:26:150:26:17

Terrible, isn't it? Trying to choose.

0:26:180:26:20

Trying not to offend Patrick.

0:26:230:26:25

Trying to think of something that he's going to look at

0:26:250:26:27

and not be, like, "Eurgh!"

0:26:270:26:29

Decisions, decisions.

0:26:290:26:30

Perhaps I ought to just leave that alone,

0:26:300:26:32

cos I'd probably have to do some little French seams on that.

0:26:320:26:36

I think I might do that...

0:26:360:26:38

I'm not sure Patrick will approve of this.

0:26:380:26:40

-Do

-I

-approve of it?

0:26:420:26:44

I kind of approve of it.

0:26:450:26:47

It's got enough crunchiness to gather,

0:26:470:26:51

and enough body to hold the shape.

0:26:510:26:56

I hope.

0:26:570:26:59

Not sure, not sure, not sure.

0:26:590:27:00

It's got a very obvious pattern...

0:27:030:27:05

..so I've got to match that up.

0:27:070:27:09

Let's go for it.

0:27:130:27:14

Can't be dithering all day.

0:27:140:27:16

It's a stripy fabric,

0:27:190:27:21

so I am going to use those stripes to their advantage,

0:27:210:27:24

by having them going horizontally on the sleeve.

0:27:240:27:28

Satisfied she's cut out two identical sleeves,

0:27:320:27:34

Chinelo moves onto fitting them into the armhole.

0:27:340:27:38

I'm pinning the tucks along the top of the head of the sleeve,

0:27:380:27:40

so I'm just trying to make sure they are perfectly symmetrical.

0:27:400:27:44

Only God knows how many sleeves I've made in my lifetime!

0:27:440:27:47

Some very unsuccessful ones.

0:27:470:27:48

So, I'm just going to adjust my gathers.

0:27:490:27:52

That way you can just feel round the sleeve

0:27:520:27:55

and make sure your gathers are relatively even.

0:27:550:28:00

I think because it's tailored

0:28:000:28:01

I'm going to do a little pleat at the top.

0:28:010:28:04

To achieve her straight sleeves,

0:28:040:28:06

Lynda needs to make sure any gathering disappears.

0:28:060:28:10

I've got a couple of gathers I don't want, there,

0:28:100:28:12

so I'm going to have to try and ease those out.

0:28:120:28:15

I'm not happy with those.

0:28:150:28:16

Because they're neither here nor there.

0:28:160:28:18

If you're going to have gathers,

0:28:180:28:19

they should be proper gathers, or no gathers.

0:28:190:28:22

I'm going to try to get those to no gathers.

0:28:220:28:23

It's really awkward, this is.

0:28:230:28:25

-Hello.

-Hello, love.

-How are you?

0:28:280:28:30

I'll tell you when I've finished.

0:28:300:28:32

-You've got to finish.

-I've got to finish.

0:28:320:28:34

I don't want to be alarming, but somebody is leaving tomorrow.

0:28:340:28:38

Thanks(!)

0:28:380:28:39

Just saying.

0:28:390:28:40

Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.

0:28:420:28:44

Really?!

0:28:440:28:45

How do you all feel about that?

0:28:450:28:47

Panic stricken.

0:28:470:28:48

Ooh!

0:28:510:28:53

Nearly sewed my finger as well.

0:28:530:28:55

If I was doing it at home, I'd be tacking it and fussing about,

0:28:550:28:58

but in here it's just like, "Brrrm!"

0:28:580:29:00

It's the time that's the problem.

0:29:000:29:03

It's not doing the task, it's the time.

0:29:030:29:05

That's not too bad.

0:29:100:29:12

Tamara, how are you doing?

0:29:120:29:14

Panicking slightly.

0:29:140:29:15

-What left have you got to do?

-I'm doing some cuffs

0:29:150:29:18

and I might have to reset in my little tuck as well,

0:29:180:29:20

cos it's not perfect.

0:29:200:29:21

Made cuffs lots of time.

0:29:270:29:29

But not in a time like this.

0:29:290:29:31

It's like, beat the clock!

0:29:310:29:33

Sewers you have ten minutes.

0:29:330:29:35

I genuinely can't be confident until Patrick's had his go.

0:29:420:29:45

Honestly!

0:29:450:29:46

I just need to hear what he has to say first,

0:29:460:29:48

and then I'll smile or cry.

0:29:480:29:50

I'm not happy with that, really.

0:29:570:29:59

Come on, darling.

0:29:590:30:00

It's not looking great.

0:30:050:30:07

No, not pleased.

0:30:070:30:09

They're not going to be happy.

0:30:090:30:10

15 seconds.

0:30:100:30:12

Ugh!

0:30:120:30:14

Heather, I love you, but it's always you.

0:30:140:30:15

-I know, of course it's always me...

-And you walked away.

0:30:150:30:18

-Don't touch it!

-I-I-I...

-OK, good, that's it!

0:30:180:30:20

-I'm closing it.

-We're done!

-That's it. Good girl, Heather.

0:30:200:30:23

The first time in Sewing Bee history...

0:30:230:30:26

-Give me five!

-..I haven't had to shout at you.

0:30:260:30:29

Well done, everybody.

0:30:290:30:30

Please bring your mannequins up to the front

0:30:300:30:32

and jumble them around. Come on.

0:30:320:30:35

# I wish I was back in my baby's arms... #

0:30:350:30:40

Four dresses transformed with sleeves -

0:30:400:30:43

but which best demonstrate precision and symmetry?

0:30:430:30:47

Interesting.

0:30:470:30:48

Go and have a good old nosey.

0:30:480:30:50

It's a shame...

0:30:540:30:55

-It just seems to be pulling it out of...

-Exactly.

-..shape a bit.

0:30:550:30:58

This one's really lovely and this one's pulling out of shape.

0:30:580:31:01

Cuffs are neatly done.

0:31:010:31:03

We've got quite an uneven one here, though.

0:31:030:31:06

-Buttonhole the wrong way.

-Yes.

0:31:060:31:09

Buttonholes need to run round the cuff and not up and down the side.

0:31:090:31:13

For me, the left sleeve looks a little longer.

0:31:200:31:22

Quarter of an inch.

0:31:240:31:25

However, both of these rows of pattern on both of the sleeves

0:31:250:31:29

are hanging absolutely vertically.

0:31:290:31:32

Both of these shoulder lines are very smooth.

0:31:320:31:35

-Yeah. No distortion at all to the front.

-No distortion.

0:31:350:31:38

Just one little pleat in the shoulder, but very evenly done.

0:31:430:31:49

And some really nice top stitching around the cuffs.

0:31:490:31:53

And a very neat little opening.

0:31:530:31:55

-But it's tipping...

-The pitch of the sleeve is slightly forward.

0:31:550:31:58

-It's tipping forward, yes.

-Yep.

0:31:580:31:59

A very different choice of fabric, but I like it.

0:32:080:32:11

And the balance on the patterns -

0:32:110:32:12

-look at the pattern on the back.

-Yeah.

0:32:120:32:15

This pink stripe running right down the centre of that sleeve

0:32:150:32:20

perfectly vertically, tucked into that pleat at the top.

0:32:200:32:23

I've got exactly the same on this side.

0:32:230:32:26

We've got a very smooth back armhole.

0:32:260:32:29

Very, very well executed

0:32:290:32:32

Patrick and May reorder the dresses

0:32:320:32:34

to decide whose sleeves are the best.

0:32:340:32:37

There's things that are bothering me.

0:32:370:32:39

We're going to have to pick that out.

0:32:390:32:42

-If we're nitpicking, this one curves a bit more forward.

-Move them around.

0:32:420:32:46

OK.

0:32:460:32:47

So, that's your order.

0:32:470:32:48

Yes.

0:32:480:32:50

In fourth place, come forward - who created this?

0:32:500:32:53

That's life.

0:32:560:32:57

-Thank you.

-Thanks, Lynda.

0:32:570:33:00

Please could the creator of the dress in third place come forward?

0:33:000:33:04

A lot of processes in there.

0:33:060:33:08

Thank you.

0:33:080:33:09

Please could the master who created the dress in second place

0:33:100:33:14

come and get her?

0:33:140:33:16

Really very professional-level execution.

0:33:170:33:20

Thanks very much, thank you.

0:33:200:33:22

And that means in first place it's Chinelo!

0:33:220:33:26

APPLAUSE

0:33:260:33:28

It's a really well-thought through, well-executed alteration.

0:33:290:33:34

-Very well done.

-Are you happy?

-I am very happy.

0:33:340:33:36

Especially after challenge one, when he was so mean...

0:33:360:33:40

-Thank you, Patrick(!)

-..about your tulip skirt.

0:33:400:33:42

She finds you very scary, you have to be nicer.

0:33:420:33:45

Well done, Chinelo! Well done.

0:33:450:33:46

Obviously tomorrow's still very, very important,

0:33:480:33:52

but I'll definitely be able to sleep better tonight

0:33:520:33:55

knowing that I have come first in this challenge.

0:33:550:33:58

I'm feeling a little bit deflated, but the only way is up.

0:33:580:34:01

I am nearly, nearly there, I need to just get my head down tomorrow,

0:34:010:34:06

because I want that ticket to finals, please.

0:34:060:34:09

I'm really disappointed to come last, and I think I'm in trouble.

0:34:100:34:14

-# Good morning

-Good morning

0:34:180:34:21

# We've talked the whole night through

0:34:210:34:23

-# Good morning... #

-Day two, and our sewers' last chance

0:34:230:34:26

to secure themselves a place in next week's final.

0:34:260:34:29

Lynda gave us a fantastic draped dress,

0:34:290:34:32

and then let herself down with the sleeves.

0:34:320:34:35

Lynda yo-yos.

0:34:350:34:36

Sometimes she's at the top, sometimes she's at the bottom.

0:34:360:34:39

Heather's done well. She's technically competent,

0:34:390:34:41

she just needs to make sure she pushes herself enough.

0:34:410:34:43

And you loved Chinelo's sleeves - but you didn't like her drapery.

0:34:430:34:48

I wasn't a big fan of it, personally. May liked it.

0:34:480:34:50

I mean, I think Tamara is somewhere in the middle.

0:34:500:34:53

This last challenge is an incredibly complicated challenge,

0:34:530:34:56

and I think who goes home will entirely hinge on

0:34:560:34:59

who does well in this challenge we've got here before us.

0:34:590:35:03

As usual, the sewers will produce a made-to-measure garment

0:35:030:35:06

but instead of fitting it for a model,

0:35:060:35:08

they'll be making it to fit themselves.

0:35:080:35:10

For the final challenge,

0:35:130:35:16

the judges would love to see you

0:35:160:35:18

recreate a favourite item of clothing.

0:35:180:35:21

It can be something you've bought in a shop,

0:35:210:35:23

it could be something that you have made before,

0:35:230:35:26

they just want to see how you replicate it.

0:35:260:35:28

You've got six and a half hours.

0:35:280:35:30

Your time starts now.

0:35:300:35:33

The sewers have had a chance to practise this challenge at home.

0:35:330:35:37

They've brought in their own fabric but as it's "no-pattern week",

0:35:370:35:40

they only have their favourite garment to make a copy from.

0:35:400:35:42

Where's my pin dog?

0:35:420:35:44

SHE SIGHS

0:35:440:35:45

And the garments they've brought in couldn't be more diverse.

0:35:450:35:49

This is the dress I'm making.

0:35:490:35:51

I call it my Mary Poppins dress

0:35:510:35:53

because these silhouettes remind me of Mary Poppins.

0:35:530:35:58

Lynda's wrap-style dress has long sleeves and a pleated skirt.

0:35:580:36:02

She's going to replicate it in a firm stretch fabric.

0:36:020:36:05

I'm a nursery nurse so I'm Mary Poppins

0:36:050:36:08

and my great-great aunt was a nanny.

0:36:080:36:11

And you can see from the fashion there,

0:36:110:36:13

she is very Mary Poppins-ish.

0:36:130:36:15

This is auntie Alwin in the roaring '20s.

0:36:150:36:18

She was actually a nanny as well

0:36:180:36:20

and I can see where I get my skinny legs from now.

0:36:200:36:23

It's one of my old favourite dresses.

0:36:260:36:28

My husband and I hosted a Valentine's event in our church,

0:36:280:36:31

and this is what I wore to the very first one that we did.

0:36:310:36:34

Chinelo's strapless party dress has a boned bodice

0:36:340:36:37

and is decorated with 42 strips of gathered organza.

0:36:370:36:40

She'll reproduce it with flat strips

0:36:400:36:42

which she plans to gradiate in a different colour.

0:36:420:36:46

-So, I'm going to be using a cotton lining...

-OK.

0:36:460:36:48

..and I've got all these strips of organza to sew on to this.

0:36:480:36:51

-These are all sewn on in individual pieces?

-Individual pieces, yes.

0:36:510:36:54

-You're absolutely crazy.

-CHINELO LAUGHS

0:36:540:36:56

But it looks amazing.

0:36:560:36:58

-TAMARA:

-So, what I'm copying is...

0:36:590:37:02

the first yoga outfit I treated myself to

0:37:020:37:05

when I officially became a yoga teacher.

0:37:050:37:08

Tamara's yoga outfit is made up 22 sections

0:37:080:37:11

and her copy will feature different types of contrasting stretch fabric.

0:37:110:37:15

I've sketched out the panels in my vest and my leggings

0:37:150:37:20

and I've alphabetised them.

0:37:200:37:22

It's like a jigsaw puzzle

0:37:220:37:23

Why didn't you just choose something easy?

0:37:230:37:26

-I don't play it safe, Claudia.

-No, I know. Crazy, but OK.

0:37:260:37:29

It's a silk satin dress.

0:37:300:37:33

Just a plain little shift dress.

0:37:330:37:36

It's a dress that I wore for an exhibition

0:37:360:37:40

when I was painting in Sweden

0:37:400:37:42

so it does have some nice memories for me.

0:37:420:37:45

Heather's simple shift dress has darts at the front and back.

0:37:450:37:49

She'll remake it in a cream satin.

0:37:490:37:51

It's been a tiny little bit tight and I will make sure

0:37:510:37:56

there's a little bit of room for manoeuvre in this one.

0:37:560:37:59

Why have you asked them to do this challenge?

0:38:030:38:05

I think it's demonstrating a really useful set of skills -

0:38:050:38:09

demonstrating how to take a pattern from something

0:38:090:38:12

but also lots of people have an item in the wardrobe

0:38:120:38:15

that they absolutely love, but it can be getting old,

0:38:150:38:18

and how wonderful to be able to recreate that garment?

0:38:180:38:21

But this is the semifinal. Isn't this just copying?

0:38:210:38:24

I mean, how difficult is it?

0:38:240:38:26

It's substantially difficult.

0:38:260:38:28

It's not just tracing the outline of a piece of fabric,

0:38:280:38:30

it's inserting the darts,

0:38:300:38:32

it's inserting whatever tucks and pleats are in there,

0:38:320:38:34

it's understanding how the geometry all works.

0:38:340:38:37

There are several methods to ensure an accurate copy

0:38:370:38:40

and each sewer is taking a different approach.

0:38:400:38:43

Tamara is making a pattern from a cheap micro fibre cloth.

0:38:430:38:48

So, I want something that's going to stretch a little

0:38:480:38:51

and be a little bit more like fabric so I'm going to place this on top of

0:38:510:38:54

my pieces and then I'm going to feel for the seam

0:38:540:38:57

and draw round those shapes.

0:38:570:38:59

I've measured the waist and then the hem of the skirt

0:38:590:39:04

so I've basically got to transfer the measurements onto the paper.

0:39:040:39:08

I've got this bit of fabric, which is a bit of old curtaining stuff

0:39:080:39:13

and I thought the best way to do it

0:39:130:39:15

is to make those darts in a piece of fabric first

0:39:150:39:20

and then lay that back down and then draw around my model

0:39:200:39:24

so when I open it up,

0:39:240:39:26

I've got the true shape.

0:39:260:39:27

A piece of what would've originally been the pattern

0:39:270:39:31

so you can see how different the shape is...

0:39:310:39:34

of the bust darts once it's let out.

0:39:340:39:37

I've used the original to draw that on the fabric.

0:39:380:39:42

For the skirt, because it's got pleats in it,

0:39:420:39:46

what I do is measure those and I've allowed that for the fabrics.

0:39:460:39:50

That's my pattern.

0:39:500:39:53

As you can see, it's not conventional.

0:39:530:39:55

It's my way.

0:39:550:39:57

Once they're satisfied with their patterns,

0:40:000:40:03

cutting out the new fabric can begin.

0:40:030:40:05

I'll cut out the skirt using the pattern I've just made

0:40:050:40:08

and I'll put my markings on it

0:40:080:40:10

where the organza strips are going to go onto it.

0:40:100:40:13

-A many-pieced outfit. Is that this one here?

-Yes.

0:40:150:40:19

How have you dealt with things like

0:40:190:40:20

the differential stretch in the fabric?

0:40:200:40:22

I'm making sure that when I place the pieces on the fabric,

0:40:220:40:24

they're going to be stretching in the right way.

0:40:240:40:27

-You've got quite a complex shape here, haven't you?

-Mm-hm.

0:40:270:40:29

Just think about how you want the pieces to go together -

0:40:290:40:32

-the right way up in the right order.

-Yes, I do.

0:40:320:40:35

-Right, crack on.

-Yes, you've got quite a lot of work to do.

0:40:350:40:38

-Thanks.

-I'm looking forward to seeing it.

-Thank you.

0:40:380:40:41

Well, everybody else is doing incredibly complicated stuff.

0:40:440:40:50

Obviously, now, I'm worrying that this is going to be too simple

0:40:500:40:55

but this is it.

0:40:550:40:58

LYNDA SIGHS

0:41:060:41:08

OK.

0:41:080:41:09

I don't have enough fabric.

0:41:110:41:13

I just cut it and I thought

0:41:140:41:17

there's not enough hanging over the table.

0:41:170:41:19

I feel sick.

0:41:210:41:22

My daughters are going to kill me.

0:41:220:41:25

Would it help if you were able to get some more fabric from the haberdashery?

0:41:290:41:32

It would really, really help. I'm going to cry.

0:41:320:41:35

-Let's not waste any more time.

-No.

-Thank you.

0:41:350:41:38

Go and have a look in the haberdashery.

0:41:380:41:39

-Find yourself some fabric.

-Thank you so much.

0:41:390:41:42

I'm looking for stretch fabric.

0:41:480:41:51

I'm just so happy to have anything.

0:41:590:42:02

I could cry now with relief.

0:42:040:42:07

I think Lynda's all right. Initial panic over.

0:42:080:42:11

The only thing that slightly concerns me,

0:42:110:42:13

she's got quite a mobile fabric.

0:42:130:42:14

Yes, the original garment was in stretch.

0:42:140:42:16

However, this stretch is slightly different.

0:42:160:42:19

It's a softer fabric so..

0:42:190:42:20

Heather's is the simplest garment in the room.

0:42:220:42:24

The execution and the finish needs to be perfect

0:42:240:42:27

and the fit needs to be perfect as well.

0:42:270:42:29

Chinelo has given herself an awful lot to do.

0:42:290:42:31

She's got a lot to cut out,

0:42:310:42:33

she's had a lot of pattern pieces to do

0:42:330:42:34

she's got an awful lot of sewing to put this garment together.

0:42:340:42:37

They're really chalk and cheese, those two.

0:42:370:42:40

Tamara's is quite a complicated pattern.

0:42:400:42:42

There are a lot of pieces that actually look quite similar.

0:42:420:42:45

She's got to be very careful about how she marks them

0:42:450:42:47

so she knows which one is which and it's all in stretch.

0:42:470:42:50

I think she's given herself a lot to do.

0:42:500:42:52

I'm now piecing together my vest top.

0:42:520:42:56

My pattern pieces will fit better if I attach the side pieces first

0:42:560:43:01

and then I'll attach them to the middle piece.

0:43:010:43:03

I'm just making doubly sure that all the lines run into each other.

0:43:030:43:08

Three hours remain to finish constructing their favourite garment.

0:43:090:43:13

I've got to sew the strips of organza on and once I've done that,

0:43:130:43:19

I can start constructing my dress.

0:43:190:43:21

I have made the same shape of dress in two hours at home.

0:43:210:43:27

I'm giving myself an hour to sew those strips on.

0:43:270:43:30

TAMARA: I have my overlocker for the interior seams

0:43:310:43:35

and it's just a matter of making sure

0:43:350:43:37

everything is in line with each other.

0:43:370:43:39

Now, I'm going to do my pleats

0:43:410:43:42

and we know what Patrick's like with a tape measure

0:43:420:43:45

so I'm using my tape measure to measure them carefully

0:43:450:43:47

before I put them under the machine.

0:43:470:43:49

I'm actually scared now of this.

0:43:490:43:52

The whole fabric thing has put me right off.

0:43:520:43:55

Really unsettled me altogether.

0:43:550:43:57

I'm endeavouring to put in an invisible zip.

0:43:590:44:02

I'm going for absolute accuracy and perfect fit.

0:44:020:44:08

If it isn't, I'm going to be ripped to shreds

0:44:080:44:11

because my dress is so simple.

0:44:110:44:15

While Heather reaches the final stages of her dress,

0:44:150:44:18

Chinelo plans more.

0:44:180:44:20

Looks like this is frill corner.

0:44:200:44:22

This is definitely frill corner at the moment.

0:44:220:44:24

What I'd done was I'd sewn on the first row,

0:44:240:44:28

and I went to put the second row on there.

0:44:280:44:31

But I didn't quite like the way the overlay was,

0:44:310:44:34

so I'm adding another row to the centre.

0:44:340:44:37

-Have you got the time?

-Em... I reckon I do.

0:44:370:44:40

It's cos we need to see your construction of your dress.

0:44:400:44:43

Yeah. Don't worry.

0:44:430:44:45

May's worried about time.

0:44:480:44:50

Yeah, it's a lot of sewing to do but I'll do it.

0:44:510:44:56

I'm just doing the back seam here...

0:45:000:45:03

and the last bit just beyond the zip is always a difficult bit.

0:45:030:45:08

So, how many more little bits have you got to put together now?

0:45:090:45:12

I have one there, one there, one there, one there.

0:45:120:45:15

So you're over-locking as you go?

0:45:150:45:17

Yep, so it's nice and neat

0:45:170:45:18

and then depending on how much time I've got left,

0:45:180:45:20

-I would like to topstitch with a zigzag.

-Yes.

0:45:200:45:23

-LYNDA:

-I'm not enjoying this at all.

0:45:340:45:37

This fabric is nothing like the fabric I wanted to use,

0:45:370:45:39

it's far more stretchy.

0:45:390:45:41

It's the semifinal.

0:45:410:45:43

They're going to be looking for perfection and this isn't it.

0:45:430:45:47

How much do you want to make the final?

0:45:470:45:49

Oh, I would love to make the final, it would be so exciting.

0:45:490:45:53

Sad to leave at this stage, I think, for all of you.

0:45:530:45:56

Yeah, it would. Exactly.

0:45:560:45:58

-I'm going to have a word and say...

-All of us can stay.

0:45:580:46:01

Do you know what I mean?

0:46:010:46:02

Let's bring back Dave. Let's phone Jenni.

0:46:020:46:05

-Let's get Julie in.

-Let's get them all back.

-Nobody should leave.

0:46:050:46:08

One hour left.

0:46:140:46:15

I'm just seeing how the arms fit.

0:46:180:46:21

They could do with taking a little bit away.

0:46:210:46:24

I'm just looking at that bit there.

0:46:240:46:28

I just still want that in, just a fraction.

0:46:280:46:30

And I want that in there, just there, see?

0:46:310:46:35

I want to check that it fits before I put the facings on.

0:46:350:46:37

OK. That's quite hoo-hoo.

0:46:370:46:40

I don't think it'll be too low.

0:46:400:46:42

You're going to put it on, are you?

0:46:420:46:44

But I'm bigger than you, Claudia.

0:46:440:46:47

What statement are you making with this dress?

0:46:470:46:50

It's not like that on me, honestly.

0:46:500:46:52

I'm nearly finished with my skirt.

0:46:530:46:55

I've just got three of the lines to go

0:46:550:46:57

but I really just want to do my bodice now.

0:46:570:47:00

I haven't got much time to finish. Time is always a concern.

0:47:010:47:05

Sewers, you have 45 minutes.

0:47:070:47:10

45 minutes.

0:47:100:47:12

You look intently focused on what you're doing.

0:47:160:47:20

-I am.

-How are you getting along?

0:47:200:47:21

I had to change my plan a little bit,

0:47:210:47:23

where I was going to put the organza on the bodice, topped bodice,

0:47:230:47:26

I'm going to do that so it's only just going to be on the skirt now.

0:47:260:47:29

Just a plain top but you've got it all round...?

0:47:290:47:31

I've got it on the skirt, yeah.

0:47:310:47:32

-OK, so not a massive change.

-No, not a massive change but

0:47:320:47:35

just making sure I have a finished garment.

0:47:350:47:38

-TAMARA:

-I have overlocked the seam of my leggings

0:47:380:47:42

and now I'm going to finish it off by stitching over the top.

0:47:420:47:46

It is very quiet in there, isn't it?

0:47:490:47:50

I mean it's been very quiet all day.

0:47:500:47:52

I think, finally, they've realised

0:47:520:47:54

that this is the serious end of the competition

0:47:540:47:56

and they've got half an hour left to see themselves into the final.

0:47:560:48:00

I'm not happy with the crossover,

0:48:000:48:03

so I'm undoing it and redoing it.

0:48:030:48:05

It's really difficult with the fabric to keep everything straight.

0:48:050:48:09

It's not sitting right in the front.

0:48:090:48:11

Where you see the most, it's sort of puckered there.

0:48:110:48:14

Sewers, you have ten minutes left.

0:48:140:48:16

Terrific.

0:48:160:48:18

SHE CHUCKLES

0:48:180:48:19

What did I do with my needle?

0:48:230:48:26

This isn't rolling my hem.

0:48:290:48:31

-LYNDA:

-The seam still isn't perfect, I must go over that bit again.

0:48:350:48:39

SHE SIGHS

0:48:390:48:40

It's just a total nightmare today.

0:48:400:48:42

Oh, I can't believe I've just done that.

0:48:480:48:50

That was perfect and I've just slipped.

0:48:500:48:53

I don't want to panic everyone but we've got to get dressed.

0:48:550:48:59

I hope I've sorted it.

0:49:000:49:02

-Heather?

-Mm-hm?

0:49:030:49:05

-Let's go.

-OK.

0:49:050:49:06

Tamara, get yoga'd up. Let's do downward dog.

0:49:090:49:13

It's still not right.

0:49:140:49:16

That's lovely

0:49:200:49:22

OK, that's it. Time is up.

0:49:220:49:26

You are in your favourite clothes.

0:49:260:49:27

Please come and stand by your stations.

0:49:270:49:31

In just six and a half hours,

0:49:340:49:36

the semifinalists have made a brand-new copy

0:49:360:49:39

of an old garment.

0:49:390:49:41

-HEATHER:

-I don't think I have done enough to impress the judges, no.

0:49:410:49:44

I think it's too simple.

0:49:440:49:46

It's a mess. It's not a semifinal garment.

0:49:460:49:49

My daughters will be gutted.

0:49:490:49:51

There is nothing I can do, just hope really.

0:49:510:49:55

Really, really hope I've done enough to stay in for the final

0:49:550:49:59

but you just don't know.

0:49:590:50:01

'So what will May and Patrick make of their reproductions,

0:50:190:50:22

'before deciding which three will be entering the final?'

0:50:220:50:26

Chinelo, please come forward with both your original and the new.

0:50:260:50:32

I think it's nicely balanced.

0:50:420:50:44

The darts all look like they're sitting in the right place.

0:50:440:50:47

A little uneven in some of the sewing

0:50:470:50:50

but I think the way that you've graded it through the skirt

0:50:500:50:52

is really elegant and I think works extremely well.

0:50:520:50:55

I think the way in which you have attached layers is very good

0:50:550:51:00

because you had to do it very evenly and it's worked very well.

0:51:000:51:05

Comparing it with the original,

0:51:050:51:07

I think I prefer this one.

0:51:070:51:08

-Oh, thank you.

-It's really lovely.

0:51:080:51:10

Yeah, I think what you've done is update it

0:51:100:51:13

and actually make it a little more refined

0:51:130:51:15

and a much more stunning piece of clothing. Very well done.

0:51:150:51:18

Thank you.

0:51:180:51:19

I have to say for me,

0:51:340:51:36

I find the fit a tiny bit disappointing

0:51:360:51:39

because it's quite tight round your hips

0:51:390:51:41

and, across the back, we've got quite a bit of wrinkling.

0:51:410:51:46

I know you took some in, and perhaps too much on the hips,

0:51:460:51:50

so it's not sliding down your body.

0:51:500:51:52

It just looks too long in the back bodice for me.

0:51:520:51:54

Overall, I think there's a lovely shape to it.

0:51:540:51:57

Needs a fraction off on the shoulder.

0:51:570:51:59

Yeah, we've got a bit where it's not sitting there.

0:51:590:52:02

But if we look at what you started with,

0:52:020:52:05

it's very, very clear that you've done an extremely accurate job

0:52:050:52:08

of translating that into a new pattern.

0:52:080:52:11

Thank you.

0:52:110:52:13

You had a nightmare of a day, didn't you?

0:52:300:52:32

I did, I did indeed.

0:52:320:52:34

Can you just drop your hands for me?

0:52:340:52:36

-Do I have to?

-Yes, you do.

0:52:360:52:38

The waistline is going for a bit of a walk.

0:52:390:52:42

Let's talk about the pleats.

0:52:420:52:44

I measured them.

0:52:440:52:45

Yeah, I was going to say,

0:52:450:52:46

the pleats look terrific, very even and very well spaced.

0:52:460:52:51

So, I think it's clear you've put a lot of effort into those

0:52:510:52:53

and you've managed those very well.

0:52:530:52:55

-And you've matched your pattern on your seams.

-That's right.

0:52:550:52:59

However, sadly,

0:52:590:53:01

they're tilting forward

0:53:010:53:03

so I think this is an issue with the balance of front and back.

0:53:030:53:07

Well, I think this outfit of yours works incredibly well.

0:53:210:53:25

A multi-panelled garment.

0:53:250:53:27

Yeah, not just multipanels

0:53:270:53:28

but multipanels in multiple different fabrics

0:53:280:53:31

with entirely different properties of stretch and weight.

0:53:310:53:36

This is a complicated pattern.

0:53:360:53:38

I mean this should be sitting right on the hip and it is.

0:53:380:53:41

This seam on the legging is designed to sit just underneath the kneecap

0:53:410:53:45

and it does that.

0:53:450:53:46

You know, your shoulder seam is bang on the centre of your shoulder.

0:53:460:53:49

And I do like some of the techniques you have used.

0:53:490:53:52

You have used this three-step zigzag, this top-stitching.

0:53:520:53:55

Your leggings are a really good fit.

0:53:550:53:57

Really good.

0:53:570:53:59

Girls, a huge well done. That was incredibly hard.

0:54:010:54:04

It's time for you to have a break.

0:54:040:54:07

When you come back in the room, the judges will reveal

0:54:070:54:11

who WON'T be coming back for the final.

0:54:110:54:13

I'm not ready to leave.

0:54:150:54:16

I'm not ready to call my husband and say I'm coming home.

0:54:160:54:19

I just don't want to go yet.

0:54:190:54:20

'I had no idea I'd get as far as this,'

0:54:200:54:23

but to have that chance of going to the final

0:54:230:54:26

is just the best thing ever.

0:54:260:54:27

I really, really hope that I have done enough to get through -

0:54:270:54:32

I really, really do.

0:54:320:54:33

I really, really want to be in the final.

0:54:380:54:40

I think it's horrible to leave in week one.

0:54:430:54:45

I think it's probably worse to leave in the semifinal

0:54:450:54:48

because you've got so close. What's going on in your head?

0:54:480:54:51

They've all varied from challenge to challenge.

0:54:510:54:54

So we have to consider all sorts of things.

0:54:540:54:56

-You weren't mad for Heather's fit.

-I wasn't at all.

0:54:560:54:58

I didn't think the back of Heather's dress fitted at all well.

0:54:580:55:02

I felt it was the simplest garment - it should have been the most perfect.

0:55:020:55:05

Let's talk about Lynda's.

0:55:050:55:06

We all noticed immediately that Lynda made a big

0:55:060:55:09

mistake in the construction of this dress.

0:55:090:55:12

Lynda can be terribly inconsistent.

0:55:120:55:14

Cos she won the first challenge - you two went nuts for that.

0:55:140:55:17

Yes, that was very good. The first two challenges,

0:55:170:55:20

Tamara didn't do very well, and yet she's made a brilliant yoga outfit.

0:55:200:55:25

Well, I will leave you two, cos you haven't made a decision either way.

0:55:250:55:29

-We just need to have a final chat.

-OK.

0:55:290:55:33

First of all, enormous well done. Let's do the good bit first.

0:55:440:55:49

This week, garment of the week is...

0:55:490:55:53

SHE SQUEALS

0:55:550:55:57

Tremendous pattern-cutting skills,

0:55:570:56:01

and excellent execution on a really tricky fabric.

0:56:010:56:03

Huge well done. Garment of the week in the semifinal.

0:56:030:56:06

Now, here's the hideous bit. Somebody has to go.

0:56:080:56:12

So, the person leaving the Sewing Bee is...

0:56:170:56:21

It's Lynda.

0:56:280:56:30

-Sorry.

-I thought it was me.

0:56:320:56:34

-Oh, I'm sorry.

-Thank you so much.

0:56:340:56:38

Thank you. Oh, it's worth going!

0:56:380:56:41

'I do feel more confident now.'

0:56:410:56:44

My son-in-law actually said to me,

0:56:440:56:46

when I said I was coming on the programme,

0:56:460:56:48

"Are you any good, then, at sewing?" I said, "I don't know, to be honest,

0:56:480:56:52

"we're about to find out."

0:56:520:56:54

It's been a pleasure.

0:56:540:56:55

And I've loved it - it's been an experience of a lifetime.

0:56:550:56:59

Even when times got tough I stuck it out - I'm proud of myself for that.

0:56:590:57:03

You're perfect.

0:57:080:57:09

'I'm really, really sad that Lynda's gone.'

0:57:120:57:15

She's been absolutely the life and soul of our little group.

0:57:150:57:20

'She has had us all in stitches all the time.'

0:57:200:57:23

Yeah, of course we're going to miss her.

0:57:230:57:25

'I got garment of the week - really, really chuffed.'

0:57:250:57:29

I seriously worked my socks off to get that perfect.

0:57:290:57:32

'I managed to pull it out the bag last minute.'

0:57:320:57:35

If can do it now, I can do it next week.

0:57:350:57:37

'Winning is definitely in reach now, so I really, really, really need'

0:57:390:57:42

to go home and practise - practise my little heart out,

0:57:420:57:45

'just come back fighting for that Great British Sewing Bee title,

0:57:450:57:50

cos I want to win!

0:57:500:57:52

Mwah-ha-ha!

0:57:520:57:54

At the final Sewing Bee...

0:57:570:57:59

I've given myself a lot of work to do, but it's the final -

0:57:590:58:03

what else to do?

0:58:030:58:05

..there can only be one winner, and the judges demand couture.

0:58:050:58:08

What we're testing this week is the finishing skills

0:58:080:58:12

that take a well-assembled garment

0:58:120:58:14

and turn it into a beautiful piece of sewing.

0:58:140:58:17

But will the pressure prove too much for some?

0:58:170:58:20

I just want this to be over now, to be honest.

0:58:210:58:24

And who will hold their nerve

0:58:240:58:26

to be crowned Britain's best amateur sewer?

0:58:260:58:29

I'm going hell for leather.

0:58:290:58:31

I can't not finish this one.

0:58:310:58:33

Halleluiah!

0:58:330:58:35

If you'd like to take up your own sewing projects

0:58:380:58:40

inspired by the series, go to:

0:58:400:58:43

Claudia Winkleman welcomes the four remaining sewers back to the sewing room. They face three challenges - none of which permit a pattern for guidance. First, they must demonstrate their ability to drape on the stand by making a dress out of a piece of fabric straight onto the mannequin - a practice made popular in the 1930s. Next, they alter a dress by adding a pair of perfectly symmetrical sleeves. Finally, they bring in their favourite garment from home, make a new copy and fit it to themselves. Some play it safe to reproduce simple dresses while others take ambitious risks. Who will be rewarded with a place in the final?