Basic Construction The Great British Sewing Bee


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Basic Construction

Amateur sewers test their sewing and dressmaking skills. Ten new home sewers must follow a deceptively difficult pattern for a woman's top made up of four pieces.


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Transcript


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We are back. We have ten brilliant home sewers who are ready

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to take their hobby to new heights.

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We have a brand-new sewing room

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and a beautiful haberdashery

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full of every conceivable fabric.

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We also have these mannequins,

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who are just waiting - they're excited -

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about being adorned with the trickiest garments yet.

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Britain's army of home sewers grows bigger every year.

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Sewing means everything to me.

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I can't imagine a life without it.

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I'd be naked, apart from anything else!

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-Making it to the sewing room...

-Oh!

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..has never been harder.

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I can't believe I'm here. It's so exciting.

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It was one of my life goals.

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I'd like to think I can bring

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a little bit of something different to the sewing room.

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Each week, our passionate amateurs

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will be asked to make three beautiful garments.

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I am a perfectionist. It could be my downfall. Hope not.

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Every stitch will be scrutinised by Savile Row's Patrick Grant.

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In my world, it's all about precision...

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the finest materials, the most beautiful execution...

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That's what I want to see from our sewers.

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And from the world of fashion,

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film costume maker and senior lecturer

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at the world-renowned Central Saint Martins School of Fashion,

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Esme Young.

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I am really looking forward to this.

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What I am looking for from the perfect sewer

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is a range of techniques...

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and their imagination and their individuality

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coming out in the garments.

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I'll probably find it quite hard not to say what I think.

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The competition will begin...

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Must remain calm.

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..with three demanding tests of basic construction.

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Great(!)

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'But who has the discipline to follow a pattern...'

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Why on earth have I done this?

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'..the imagination to transform a garment...'

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-It's not something I would wear on a summer's day.

-You don't know that.

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'..and the precision to make a stunning made-to-measure skirt?'

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-It's sexy.

-Is she making you blush?

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'And who amongst these ten new sewers...'

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Argh!

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'..could go on to win...'

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Oh!

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'..The Great British Sewing Bee?'

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-That is date night. Isn't it?

-Have you been on my dates?

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'The Sewing Bee has moved south of the river, to Bermondsey,

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'the heart of Victorian London's wool and leather trade.

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'Our new sewing room is a former tannery

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'that once supplied clothing manufacturers across Britain

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'and its empire.

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'It's about to become a hive of industry once again.'

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A huge welcome to our lovely sewers.

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Let me introduce you to your judges -

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Patrick and the fantastic Esme.

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They are going to help you and of course do a bit of judging.

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So, sorry about that! THEY LAUGH

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This week is all about basic construction techniques.

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The first challenge is the pattern challenge.

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-Esme...

-Yep.

-..what have you got for them?

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Here are your patterns. Can you dish those out to everybody?

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OK, what we are doing is a top.

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-No sleeves, no fastenings - simple.

-But there is a catch.

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We want you to use a linear pattern on the bias, and by using

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the bias, create a chevron pattern down the front and the back.

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You have got two and a half hours.

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Enormous luck... Your time starts now.

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At each Sewing Bee,

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the first challenge will test the sewers' ability to follow a pattern.

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I want a nice bold stripe, I think. I just don't know.

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I'm waiting for the fabric I want to come out at me.

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They are free to choose any fabric they like from the haberdashery,

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but it must deliver the perfect chevron

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Patrick and Esme are looking for.

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-So this is what you are after, that chevron.

-Yes.

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All the way down the front and, of course, all the way down the back.

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Esme, what is cutting on the bias?

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Cutting on the bias is laying your pattern at 45 degrees to the grain.

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-So the grain is where the stripe is.

-Got you.

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You see? It is not stretching.

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If I go like that, it stretches.

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So here, they have cut it on the bias, so the grain is here,

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and the bias is here.

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The fabric is volatile, so it takes the shape of the body.

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Cutting and sewing on the bias is tricky.

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This is a deceptively tough challenge.

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Can I confirm that you will both be modelling these?

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-Absolutely.

-That's all I wanted to know. I'm going in.

-OK.

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I don't want to spend too much time looking and picking

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and overthinking it.

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So I will just try and pick one really quick -

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something that catches my eye.

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Angeline is an events manager

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and grew up on her family's farm in Northern Ireland.

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Do you want to go back and lay some nice eggs?

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'I have been sewing for about ten years.'

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My brother bought me a sewing machine for Christmas one year,

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and I remember spending the whole of Christmas Day

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trying to thread it.

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I have went for a floral print,

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but there are black and white striped lines.

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Bit of stretch in it, but we should be OK.

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Oh, the haberdashery is amazing! I want it in my house.

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That seems perfectly reasonable.

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We don't need bedrooms or anything(!)

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Married mum-of-three Charlotte is an editor of a medical journal,

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and her passion has overrun the family garage.

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I love seeing my kids wear things that I have made.

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I made them a set of matching pyjamas for Christmas,

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but I don't think they have all worn them together since then,

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because they're in the wash at different times,

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but they all wore them together and it was just so cute!

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I'm not very good at deciding.

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I have got this one, which is nice and floaty,

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but that makes it harder to sew.

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Millions of pins and I'll be fine.

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With their striped fabric chosen...

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Need to get this just right, actually.

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..the sewers need to work out how best

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to cut out their pattern pieces.

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Right...

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The four pattern pieces -

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two for the front, and two for the back -

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are cut at a 45 degree angle

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along the bias of the fabric.

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When they are joined together at the centre seam,

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the linear pattern should match perfectly,

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forming the chevron the judges have asked for.

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Have you made a top like this before?

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I have never made a top like this before.

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I have done on the bias, and that sort of...

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matching stuff.

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71-year-old grandmother of nine Joyce lives in West Sussex

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and is a retired school's administration officer.

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She has been sewing for almost 60 years.

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I get my sewing inspiration from all sorts of places, and what I have

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started doing is taking pictures in shops on my mobile phone...

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if I like something. Which is a bit cheeky, really.

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It worries me that the fabric is very slippy,

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-it is going to be difficult to match.

-It's volatile.

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Well, yes. Well done, you.

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I'm going to be honest with you, Esme used it earlier

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and I have stolen it.

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So you've just pinched it. Good thinking.

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Whilst cutting on the bias,

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every move the sewers make has the potential to distort the fabric.

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You can see I'm shaking.

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And distorted fabric will never match at the centre seams.

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I am not used to cutting fabric on the bias.

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If you handle it too much, then it just sort of grows.

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But one sewer has chosen the most unstable fabric

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on offer in the haberdashery.

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Oh, hello. Somebody has been brave.

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-Georgette.

-Yeah, bit of georgette.

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Jamie's georgette is a fine, slippery fabric

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usually reserved for evening wear.

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Have you cut on the bias before?

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Bits and bobs, but not a huge amount.

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-And have you used georgette before?

-Once before.

-And how did that go?

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It was tricky. I will be honest, it was tricky.

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BUT...if you're going to cut on the bias,

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might as well use something that stretches anyway.

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-Well, good luck...

-Thank you.

-..with that.

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Jamie is from Exeter and gave up a career in teaching to be

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a stay-at-home dad to look after his deaf son Harry.

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You could say that sewing's in the blood.

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Growing up with my nan,

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she was hand-sewing gloves for a local company,

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and I grew up with sewing machines and needles and pins all around me.

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This is slightly different to what I normally do.

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Normally, I am at home... I would have my head in the washing machine.

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Well, that's what I will tell the wife anyway.

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To cut on the bias was on the list to practise.

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I didn't think it would be a first week thing, so... Whoops!

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Duncan is a maths tutor.

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He began sewing three years ago and is already making

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made-to-measure womenswear for his friends.

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I'll go for a half down on the bum and then we can see.

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'The preparation is the most important thing for me.

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'If you take your time, measure, cut and make sure that is all

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done beautifully, then when you come to sew, that is fun and easy.

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-Do you always cut on the floor?

-Yeah.

-Do you?!

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Sort of what I am used to.

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-And have you ever cut on the bias before?

-Never.

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It is really scary.

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I am quite quick with the sewing. I just always take my time cutting.

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-OK, take your time, but not too much...

-No, no.

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..is a big suggestion.

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# Be cool, relax... #

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Even if the sewers think they have

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cut out their first pieces accurately...

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that is only the beginning.

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I think the most difficult part is cutting the pieces

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so the stripes match.

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To create a perfect chevron down the centre seam...

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-Doesn't say.

-..their second piece must have stripes

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running in the opposite direction.

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Then all the stripes on both pieces need to meet.

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Some of them appear to be matching,

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and then some of them are slightly off.

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Seems to be the movement in the fabric.

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Any slipping or stretching during cutting

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and the chevrons that they have matched will be gone.

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My kids would just tell me to chill out.

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They would also tell me not to go out in the first round.

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Position is really important in this task.

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I just want to get them cut, and then, hopefully,

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the sewing will be a doddle.

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Rumana lives in East London and she is a junior doctor.

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I have been sewing since I was probably about seven.

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The first thing I ever made was actually a dress for my Barbie.

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My mum had made me a dress for Eid,

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and so I used the scraps of it to make her a matching one.

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I think I made one of my tops slightly longer than the other,

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with all the shifting.

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I'm just going to pretend that it was meant to be that length.

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If lining up the chevrons wasn't tricky enough...

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Whoa-whoa-whoa.

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..one sewer has made this first challenge twice as hard.

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-You are making a chevron out of a chevron.

-Yes.

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I have given myself a bit of a job, I have realised.

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What we are going to need is a bit of a square.

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It will end up with kind of a square, and then come down.

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And have you cut on the bias before?

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Yes, a long time ago.

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Mum-of-two Tracey is a retired primary school teacher

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and lives in Derbyshire with her husband Chris.

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-Don't you want me to measure your neck?

-My fat neck on...

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THEY LAUGH

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My husband likes me to sew, but I'm terrible for buying fabric.

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I think I am one piece away from appearing

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on a programme called Hoarders.

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It was very strange coming away and leaving Chris, my husband,

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at home last night. He is perfectly capable of cooking

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and looking after himself. He'll not starve.

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He might have to go to Tesco, though,

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and he doesn't like doing that.

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Whilst Tracey, Jamie and Joyce are ready to begin sewing...

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-Joyce.

-Yes?

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-Can I ask for your help for a moment?

-Of course you can.

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..matching and cutting on the bias is still proving tricky for some.

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-What's this? Your front?

-Yes.

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I made one slightly longer than the other.

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I might just trim that off now before it becomes a headache.

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Look, there's your match. Can you see? You have got your match.

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-Do you want a hand up?

-Yes, please.

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You all right?

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I've done it wrong again.

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Every time I cut it out, I cut it out,

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and when I go to place them back together, the wrong sides match.

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Josh plays football for Cardiff Metropolitan University.

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Entirely self-taught, his sewing skills

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are now in constant demand by his team-mates.

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-Just a touch more.

-A touch more?

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'When I told the boys that I had a sewing machine,

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'I think at first people laugh.

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'But then when we get new tracksuits, I will get all the boys'

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giving me some money to alter their tracksuits

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so it actually fits them.

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What are we doing here?

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I somehow... I have cut it out the wrong way, so it doesn't actually...

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-Two bits the same.

-Oh, my God.

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Yeah? Does that make sense? So now you have got the chevron.

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-Where do I match my back...?

-I love you for helping.

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-Shall we get some pins and cut this puppy?

-I'm going.

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-Yes, love you, thank you so much.

-Pleasure.

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Charlotte, you are a magnificent woman.

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As they sew their pieces together,

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all the careful work to match the chevrons can easily be undone.

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If there is any movement in the fabric either away,

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the chevron won't match when I'm finished.

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They have got to be right, otherwise I will get picked up on it.

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Hopefully that has matched. Has that matched?

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I have got the effect I wanted with this square

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along the centre, but further down, it has gone slightly out here.

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So I'm just going to unpick that last little bit and move it across.

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This is the front. I didn't think

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I would do it, but I did.

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SHE LAUGHS

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Jade is from Eastbourne,

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and, at just 18, is the competition's youngest ever sewer.

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-What colour would you like?

-Pink.

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'I love sewing for my sister,

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and then there is the dogs.

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Come on, Jessie.

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'I have made bandannas and little tutus.'

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Is that a dog on a sewing machine? Hold on, just look at that.

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-Jessie.

-Hello, Jessie.

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Who are these individuals?

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That's my dad, that is my little sister Gemma...

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-They must be so proud of you.

-They are.

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I think they are. My little sister, Gemma,

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when she knew I was coming up,

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she goes, "So who is going to have your room?"

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I was like, "I'm only going for four days."

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I just feel like, because we are on camera,

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-should we give Gemma your room now?

-No.

-OK.

-She's not allowed it!

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You have an hour and a half left. You have had an hour.

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-Oh, my God. Uhh!

-How are you feeling?

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Stressed, but, you know, this is my stressed face.

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I'm right in thinking that,

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if I then put a seam line down there, that would be the chevron?

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-You all right?

-Yeah. Well, I'm assuming

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I have got it right now. I just...

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Statistically, you have to.

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I am hand-basting it all, to try and line it all up.

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It is slow going at the moment.

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But it is even slower going for Ghislaine.

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No, it's not it either.

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Ghislaine's family are from Martinique,

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and she now works as an office manager in London.

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I love vibrant prints in my sewing.

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When I make things for myself, every time I make a seam,

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I like to try it on to see if it fits.

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And I find it a lot easier to do that in my underwear.

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Gosh, you have given yourself a heck of a challenge here.

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Absolutely.

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This is a linear pattern,

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but it doesn't have straight edges,

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so this black stripe here is at a different position

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to the edge of the black stripe here.

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-Exactly.

-It may NOT line up on the edge of the sewing line.

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-I don't think it will. We'd like to give you a little tip.

-Yes, please?

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Ditch this fabric and start with something straight.

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What have I done to myself? What have I done?

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I mean, we're not telling you what to do.

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OK, one more fabric. I'm changing fabric.

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GHISLAINE LAUGHS You're not?!

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-I am!

-You don't have time!

0:14:360:14:37

-I-I have.

-Just grab anything.

0:14:370:14:40

-OK.

-Of course you can use that.

-I don't like pink and...

0:14:400:14:43

It doesn't matter.

0:14:430:14:44

-OK, OK, OK, OK!

-Well, this is madness.

0:14:470:14:50

The fabric is more stable, so I am not going to waste as much time.

0:14:500:14:53

Basically, I have got an hour left.

0:14:530:14:55

It doesn't bother me that Ghislaine is using the same fabric as me.

0:14:550:14:58

She has obviously got good taste.

0:14:580:15:01

Sewers, you have one hour left.

0:15:010:15:03

Here we go.

0:15:030:15:04

Yes!

0:15:040:15:06

CHARLOTTE LAUGHS

0:15:060:15:08

That's all right, I am happy now. I got patterns matching.

0:15:080:15:11

You finding it really slippery?

0:15:110:15:13

I've got big fat hands, that's what it is.

0:15:130:15:15

On the front. Not my colour, but it is matched quite well, so...

0:15:150:15:19

it was worth spending the time hand-tacking it all.

0:15:190:15:22

There we go, not too bad.

0:15:220:15:23

The fabric being so much more stable,

0:15:230:15:26

I don't have to pin so much, the cutting is a lot easier.

0:15:260:15:29

While Ghislaine is finally making progress...

0:15:290:15:32

You've cut and sewn the back, now you're going back to cutting again.

0:15:320:15:34

-Yes.

-..Rumana's inaccurate cutting is starting to catch up with her.

0:15:340:15:38

-It is just so slippery.

-Yeah.

-It just kept moving.

0:15:380:15:42

This is the point of this challenge.

0:15:420:15:44

These pieces have to all be exactly the size of the pattern.

0:15:440:15:47

Now, none of the three you have cut

0:15:470:15:48

-are actually the size of the pattern.

-Yeah...

0:15:480:15:50

I'm just going to restart.

0:15:500:15:52

-This is the back.

-Cut the back.

-We want the front.

-Yes.

-Don't panic.

0:15:520:15:56

It is very hard not to panic.

0:15:560:15:58

-Sorry, we have made you panic.

-Yes!

0:15:580:16:00

-We didn't mean to.

-Please, go.

-Right, we will.

0:16:000:16:03

Check that one there...

0:16:050:16:07

CHARLOTTE GASPS

0:16:070:16:08

This is... Ohhh.

0:16:080:16:10

The next stage in Esme and Patrick's pattern...

0:16:100:16:14

takes cutting and sewing on the bias to the next level.

0:16:140:16:16

The next instruction says to make the bias strip that's going to

0:16:160:16:21

finish the neckline off.

0:16:210:16:22

Many of the garments we wear have a neckline that is

0:16:220:16:25

neatened and reinforced...

0:16:250:16:28

with something called bias binding.

0:16:280:16:30

-Have you put bias binding on a bias top before?

-No.

0:16:300:16:33

-Ohh.

-OK.

-Is that going to be fun?

0:16:330:16:35

I think so.

0:16:350:16:37

First, they need to cut a strip of fabric on the bias that is

0:16:380:16:41

exactly the same length as the opening for the neck.

0:16:410:16:44

"Press the strip lengthways", done that.

0:16:450:16:48

"Wrong sides together", yeah.

0:16:480:16:50

"And mark the quarters with pins."

0:16:500:16:52

This would go on the back neck.

0:16:520:16:54

Then you put it between the notches.

0:16:540:16:56

Now, the really tricky bit here...

0:16:560:16:59

-The front of the V?

-Yes.

0:16:590:17:01

Between here and here is shorter than between there and there.

0:17:010:17:04

So, if I go like this... Can you see how that is going all wobbly?

0:17:040:17:09

-Yes.

-Because that edge...

-Can't you just chop it?

0:17:090:17:12

-No.

-OK.

-You can't just chop it.

0:17:120:17:15

-You need to ease this in.

-I see.

0:17:150:17:17

Because you need that length there.

0:17:170:17:20

Sewn, to start with, with all the raw edges together,

0:17:200:17:24

so, at the minute, all the raw edges are there,

0:17:240:17:27

and what we're going to do next is turn that all the way over,

0:17:270:17:32

so that you then end up with a really neat neck edge.

0:17:320:17:35

CHARLOTTE SIGHS

0:17:350:17:36

I cut my bias binding on the straight grain

0:17:360:17:39

instead of on the bias, so it doesn't stretch.

0:17:390:17:42

Just glad I realised before trying to sew it on.

0:17:420:17:45

Sewers, you have 30 minutes left.

0:17:450:17:47

-RUMANA:

-OK.

0:17:470:17:48

Ahh! That doesn't help.

0:17:480:17:50

I have just stitched the neckline.

0:17:500:17:52

Feel like I am on the home straight.

0:17:520:17:54

Should check this other armhole is all right.

0:17:560:17:59

That's better.

0:17:590:18:01

Second time lucky. I hope it doesn't get to third time lucky.

0:18:010:18:04

Then I will be really nervous.

0:18:040:18:06

I'm shaking!

0:18:080:18:10

I am really far behind everyone else.

0:18:100:18:12

Loads and loads of pressing.

0:18:140:18:16

You need an iron more than you need a sewing machine, really.

0:18:160:18:19

Oh, no. I think my bias binding is too long.

0:18:200:18:24

It might have stretched.

0:18:250:18:26

Charlotte, what stitch are you using to neaten the edges

0:18:260:18:29

-of the armholes?

-Just zigzagging.

-Just a zigzag, yeah?

0:18:290:18:31

I'm going to sew the difference at the back

0:18:310:18:33

and then cut it off and hope.

0:18:330:18:34

Yes! Just check that I have a chevron, and I do.

0:18:360:18:40

Look at you. You were done about two hours ago.

0:18:400:18:43

TRACEY LAUGHS

0:18:430:18:45

-Are you happy with it?

-Yes, I am. Yes, yes.

0:18:450:18:47

It's just a shame it won't fit me.

0:18:470:18:49

-Jade, how are you doing?

-Done.

0:18:490:18:51

-Putting it on?

-Yeah.

-You're done?

-Yeah.

0:18:510:18:53

I have heard a couple of "I've finished",

0:18:530:18:55

which isn't exactly where I am yet.

0:18:550:18:58

I'm stitching the binding, but you can see, it just moves so much.

0:18:580:19:02

Sewers, you have got ten minutes.

0:19:020:19:05

SHE SIGHS

0:19:050:19:06

This is the maddest, quickest sewing I have ever done.

0:19:070:19:11

That'll do.

0:19:120:19:13

HE GROANS

0:19:150:19:16

I'm trying to do the hems,

0:19:230:19:24

because I don't have time to fix the rest of it.

0:19:240:19:27

-It's terrible.

-It's not great. At all.

0:19:270:19:30

One minute left!

0:19:300:19:32

I haven't finished an arm, it needs to be pressed, can I just press it?

0:19:320:19:35

Yep. QUICKLY!

0:19:350:19:36

Do I have to get rid of all the threads?

0:19:360:19:38

"Do I have to get rid of all the threads?"

0:19:380:19:41

I've never been asked that before.

0:19:410:19:42

-It's an idea, I've got scissors. Pull it off!

-OK, OK, OK!

0:19:420:19:45

-Which way is the right way?

-I don't...

0:19:450:19:48

-Armholes are hilarious.

-All right, everybody, that is it!

0:19:480:19:50

First challenge of the Sewing Bee is finished.

0:19:500:19:53

Give yourselves a round of applause.

0:19:530:19:55

It is so bad! I want to go home. I'm done.

0:19:590:20:03

Sewers, please bring your mannequins forward for the...judgey bit.

0:20:030:20:07

# If I had a needle and thread

0:20:090:20:12

# Tell you what I'd do... #

0:20:120:20:15

'Ten chevron tops cut on the bias in just two-and-a-half hours.

0:20:150:20:19

'But what will Esme and Patrick make of the first garments

0:20:190:20:22

'of this year's Sewing Bee?'

0:20:220:20:24

Charlotte, please bring your lovely chevron girl up.

0:20:250:20:29

Now, the thing that I notice with this, that is matching,

0:20:330:20:37

it's slightly out here.

0:20:370:20:39

And here. The shoulders are matching and the back is matching.

0:20:390:20:43

The front here is flat, which is good.

0:20:430:20:46

It is sitting pretty nicely.

0:20:460:20:48

I think it is very neatly sewn,

0:20:480:20:49

I think the pattern matching is pretty near spot-on.

0:20:490:20:52

-Yeah, well done.

-Thank you.

0:20:520:20:54

I was quite worried about you actually.

0:20:570:21:00

Because you used georgette.

0:21:000:21:02

-This is one of the hardest fabrics to choose.

-I would have said so.

0:21:020:21:06

It matches really beautifully all the way down.

0:21:060:21:09

Again, matching on the back...

0:21:090:21:11

Given what a delicate fabric this is to work with,

0:21:110:21:14

this binding is spot-on. We are seeing that nice shape.

0:21:140:21:17

I think this is a very good use of the bias on a fabric.

0:21:170:21:21

Thank you.

0:21:210:21:22

You have put your chevrons pointing up.

0:21:280:21:31

Usually feels more natural

0:21:310:21:33

if the pattern follows the general shape of the garments.

0:21:330:21:35

-You have run out of time...

-Yes.

-..so the armholes are not finished.

0:21:350:21:39

Here, it is really, really stretched.

0:21:390:21:43

Your binding all needs to be controlled and perfectly hidden.

0:21:430:21:46

-Have you ever done that before?

-No.

0:21:460:21:48

Well, you will probably try it again, won't you?

0:21:480:21:51

-(No, never.)

-No?

-LAUGHTER

0:21:510:21:53

-Yeah, you're an optimist.

-I'm an optimist.

-Never again.

0:21:530:21:56

In terms of matching the pattern, you have done exceptionally.

0:21:590:22:03

You clearly took a lot of time over that!

0:22:030:22:05

The hem is too fat, so it's hanging down.

0:22:050:22:08

The binding on the bank is narrower here...than here.

0:22:080:22:12

Overall, it's neat, it's tidy.

0:22:140:22:16

This binding, although it has stretched a little bit,

0:22:160:22:19

it is nearly done.

0:22:190:22:20

-The matching is pretty good.

-Pretty good?

0:22:200:22:23

How good does it need to be to be "good"?

0:22:230:22:26

-Tiptop.

-PATRICK LAUGHS

0:22:260:22:27

-You had a problem with cutting it out, didn't you?

-Yes.

0:22:290:22:33

-Well, it is going up... and the back is going down.

-Yeah.

0:22:330:22:36

THEY LAUGH

0:22:360:22:37

Fourth time lucky, it would have been.

0:22:370:22:39

SHE CHUCKLES

0:22:390:22:40

Fractionally pulled out of shape here,

0:22:420:22:44

but the matching, most of the way down, is really good.

0:22:440:22:46

But where you have fallen down is on the binding.

0:22:460:22:49

-Can you see, you've stretched it?

-Absolutely. Yes.

0:22:490:22:53

You are the only person that has chosen not

0:22:580:23:00

to use a straight pattern.

0:23:000:23:02

It gives us this natty sort of...

0:23:020:23:04

I don't know why I said "natty"... Why did I...?

0:23:040:23:06

CLAUDIA LAUGHS LOUDLY

0:23:060:23:08

What you have given us is this really lovely kind of

0:23:080:23:12

Aztec appearance to the front of it.

0:23:120:23:13

The back is not so well matched, but overall,

0:23:130:23:17

-I do like your choice of fabric. And it works.

-Thank you.

0:23:170:23:21

-You had a rocky start, didn't you?

-Yes.

0:23:250:23:27

-And you had to get a new fabric.

-Yes.

0:23:270:23:30

This is matched pretty good. A little bit off here.

0:23:300:23:33

I love how tough you are!

0:23:330:23:36

Really near perfect, to me.

0:23:360:23:38

You have just stretched it out a little bit here,

0:23:380:23:40

but given that you started all over again

0:23:400:23:42

about an hour into the challenge,

0:23:420:23:44

I am amazed that you have completed it.

0:23:440:23:46

Well... In a way, the chevron is disguised with the roses.

0:23:510:23:55

-It is kind of mind-boggling, that is.

-It is tough to see.

0:23:550:23:58

-It is matched here...

-Let's look at the back.

0:23:580:24:00

What do you think, Patrick?

0:24:000:24:01

-Is it matched or isn't it?

-I think it is.

0:24:010:24:04

In a way, it is quite clever, because actually, it doesn't matter.

0:24:040:24:08

If it didn't, because it has got these flowers on,

0:24:080:24:11

-from a distance, you wouldn't notice.

-Mm-hmm.

0:24:110:24:14

The Pattern Challenge is ranked.

0:24:140:24:16

Patrick and Esme will now reveal who has

0:24:160:24:18

matched their expectations and whose sewing needs to improve.

0:24:180:24:23

In tenth place...

0:24:230:24:24

Rumana. Just wasn't complete.

0:24:240:24:26

In ninth place, Josh.

0:24:260:24:29

Duncan is eight, Ghislaine seventh,

0:24:290:24:32

Joyce sixth, Jade fifth and Tracey is fourth.

0:24:320:24:35

Third place is Angeline.

0:24:360:24:38

-You did really well. The matching is good. Well done.

-Thank you.

0:24:380:24:42

So, in second place...

0:24:420:24:45

..Charlotte. Beautiful pattern matching, lovely flat neck.

0:24:480:24:53

It was extremely close. Very well done indeed.

0:24:530:24:55

Jamie is number one.

0:24:550:24:57

OTHER CONTESTANTS CHEER AND APPLAUD

0:24:570:25:00

And, Jamie, your matching is fantastic.

0:25:000:25:02

You chose a really difficult fabric. The finishing is great. Well done.

0:25:020:25:07

-Are you happy?

-I am very happy!

0:25:070:25:10

A huge well done to all of you. It is now time for a break.

0:25:100:25:14

Relax, and we'll see you back here for my favourite -

0:25:140:25:16

the Alteration Challenge.

0:25:160:25:18

-Well done.

-Thank you.

0:25:180:25:19

# It's a great feeling

0:25:190:25:21

# To suddenly find the clouds are silver-lined... #

0:25:210:25:24

I'm a little bit shocked to come first.

0:25:240:25:27

I didn't really expect it.

0:25:270:25:28

I cannot believe I just came second.

0:25:280:25:30

I put that top on the mannequin and thought, "Ugh!"

0:25:300:25:34

I think Esme was stricter than Patrick today,

0:25:340:25:36

he was being very kind.

0:25:360:25:38

I think I sewed that top in about 45 minutes altogether.

0:25:380:25:41

45 minutes!

0:25:410:25:43

I am not really used to being down the bottom,

0:25:430:25:45

but I now want to make sure that I do better every time,

0:25:450:25:47

and I will get better every time hopefully.

0:25:470:25:50

I know they call it Basic Construction Week,

0:25:500:25:53

but I'm pretty sure that's quite advanced.

0:25:530:25:55

Pattern Challenge done

0:25:570:25:59

and we have ten beautiful bias-cut tops to prove it.

0:25:590:26:02

But now for something completely different.

0:26:020:26:04

The sewers have to think fast and sew fast as they revamp

0:26:040:26:09

something old and sort of frumpy into something new and fabulous.

0:26:090:26:13

All in just an hour and a half.

0:26:130:26:16

It's now time for the Alteration Challenge.

0:26:160:26:19

This week, as we know, is about basic garment construction,

0:26:190:26:23

so they have chosen something with lots of fabric.

0:26:230:26:27

Patrick, will you reveal?

0:26:270:26:29

We are giving you...

0:26:290:26:31

the maternity dress.

0:26:310:26:32

And we would like you to reshape it into something wearable

0:26:320:26:37

that fits this mannequin.

0:26:370:26:39

Drape, cut, dart, use the haberdashery,

0:26:390:26:43

add other colours, braids, whatever you want, be really imaginative.

0:26:430:26:48

The brilliant thing is, they aren't here - no offence.

0:26:480:26:51

When they walk in, they won't know who has done what.

0:26:510:26:54

-In the nicest possible way, ciao.

-Ciao.

-You can go.

0:26:540:26:57

You have 90 minutes. Blow the judges' minds.

0:26:570:27:01

Your time starts...now.

0:27:010:27:03

When I had my kids, I did not wear maternity dresses.

0:27:090:27:11

And if I had, it wouldn't have been one like this.

0:27:110:27:15

I'm trying to work out what I can do, what I can change.

0:27:150:27:18

This is the first time I have ever done anything like.

0:27:180:27:21

I have no clue, I am winging it.

0:27:210:27:23

This is their first opportunity to

0:27:230:27:24

show us something, really, about their creative skills.

0:27:240:27:27

The whole point of this is to get away from the shackles

0:27:270:27:30

of the pattern and express something about themselves.

0:27:300:27:33

If my students were doing this, what would absolutely come out

0:27:330:27:36

is who they are, where they have come from, their point of view.

0:27:360:27:40

We have got yards of fabric here,

0:27:400:27:42

we have got a completely lining underneath it.

0:27:420:27:44

You could take the whole thing apart,

0:27:440:27:46

recut it and create something absolutely different.

0:27:460:27:49

I think I would stick a hole here, and, you know, play.

0:27:490:27:52

The dress that Patrick and Esme have given them

0:27:530:27:55

is made from a basic, lightweight, woven viscose.

0:27:550:27:59

-OK.

-It is easy to shape, and the sewers' options should be endless.

0:27:590:28:03

-What are you making?

-I am making a pencil skirt.

0:28:030:28:08

-And do you alter a lot?

-Not really.

0:28:080:28:12

I'm thinking pencil skirt, exposed zip, elastic waistband.

0:28:120:28:16

I'm going to cut the skirt from the top

0:28:160:28:18

and create a waistband with this denim.

0:28:180:28:20

I want to make a nice, tight-fitted skirt.

0:28:200:28:23

I am hoping to make a skirt, I'm going to do some pleats,

0:28:230:28:26

so then it fits the mannequin.

0:28:260:28:28

This is ribbing, it's very stretchy and quite strong so I'm going

0:28:280:28:32

to try and use it as the waistband for a little miniskirt.

0:28:320:28:35

But not everyone's making a skirt.

0:28:350:28:37

I've chopped the side seams down, going to take those in,

0:28:370:28:40

I've split the back cos it had a horrible pleat in there,

0:28:400:28:42

I'm going to put a zip in,

0:28:420:28:44

and I'm going to pop a couple of darts in the front,

0:28:440:28:47

cut the neckline down and around, ruche it up

0:28:470:28:51

and pop the lining in for the other side, then stick the skirt back on.

0:28:510:28:54

-Have you got time to do all of that?

-Yeah, if I am quick.

0:28:540:28:57

It is going to be a dress,

0:28:570:28:58

I am actually thinking of putting darts in.

0:28:580:29:01

And where the darts go, to add a godet, you know?

0:29:010:29:05

Very ambitious.

0:29:050:29:06

The godet is a triangular piece of fabric inserted

0:29:060:29:09

into a garment to create volume.

0:29:090:29:11

And it is the other fabric that I'm going to add on

0:29:110:29:14

that I hope makes the garment.

0:29:140:29:15

It looked like a dress that could do some gathering,

0:29:150:29:18

so I thought making a waistband with casing,

0:29:180:29:20

then I'm going to put something through it to gather it.

0:29:200:29:22

I'm probably going to shorten the hem as well,

0:29:220:29:24

cos I don't really like how long it is.

0:29:240:29:26

Some lace. Lace, lace, lace.

0:29:260:29:28

I'm going to make it into a top with a zip down the front,

0:29:280:29:31

and then use some lace on the collar and the sleeves.

0:29:310:29:35

A nice, white chunky zip.

0:29:350:29:37

I don't do much recycling stuff really.

0:29:370:29:40

Bit of experience of making things bigger.

0:29:400:29:43

Sewers, you have one hour left.

0:29:430:29:45

Want to prove to the judges that I can finish a garment.

0:29:450:29:47

I'm so scared after what happened this morning,

0:29:470:29:50

just finishing the garment will be an achievement for me.

0:29:500:29:54

I have put in denim side panels.

0:29:540:29:56

Sort of done the side seam.

0:29:560:29:57

And I'm currently unpicking the centre back

0:29:570:29:59

so that I can put this in.

0:29:590:30:02

I'm not happy with the zip, but I will get on with the rest of it

0:30:020:30:06

and see if I can fix it a little bit later on.

0:30:060:30:09

It's quite a chunky zip cos I want it to be visible.

0:30:090:30:11

I don't think I've lifted my head once to see

0:30:110:30:13

what anybody else is doing.

0:30:130:30:15

I'm currently making the contrasting underlap going

0:30:150:30:19

underneath the blue.

0:30:190:30:21

I have created a waistband and I am gathering the fabric together.

0:30:210:30:25

I'm just trying to finish up the gathers

0:30:250:30:28

so that it's quite evenly distributed.

0:30:280:30:29

-This looks so pretty, your choice of fabrics.

-I hope so.

0:30:290:30:32

Not something I would wear on a summer's day, but...

0:30:320:30:35

-You don't know that.

-Well...

-With a glass of white...

-Exactly.

0:30:350:30:38

..a bowl of pistachios, you might want to throw that on.

0:30:380:30:41

I might do after a bottle or two of red.

0:30:410:30:44

Sewers, you've got 30 minutes left

0:30:450:30:48

and then the scary couple will be coming upstairs.

0:30:480:30:51

If I get this, the zipper, in and the back seam done,

0:30:510:30:54

then I've a wee bit more time to play with.

0:30:540:30:56

I've just sewn in one side of my zip.

0:30:580:31:01

This might have to be done a few times,

0:31:010:31:03

considering I've only ever done one of these before.

0:31:030:31:06

-HE SIGHS

-That wasn't very good, was it?

0:31:060:31:08

I'm actually enjoying this more than I thought I would be,

0:31:080:31:11

but let's see what it looks like at the end.

0:31:110:31:14

Duncan, I'm just going to be honest with you, are you doing enough?

0:31:140:31:16

Yeah, it is quite simple.

0:31:160:31:18

-I might make a little neck scarf if I have time.

-Make a neck scarf!

0:31:180:31:21

I hope the transformation's big enough.

0:31:210:31:23

I mean, I'm going to put an invisible zip in, as well.

0:31:230:31:26

So I decided to go for a bit of a funky back.

0:31:260:31:28

Don't know if that will be enough to impress the judges.

0:31:280:31:31

I'm attaching a deep lace all the way around the bottom.

0:31:310:31:34

That is date night, isn't it?

0:31:340:31:37

-Have you been on my dates?

-SHE LAUGHS

0:31:370:31:40

Sewers, you've got ten minutes.

0:31:400:31:41

OK, OK, OK.

0:31:410:31:43

It's a neck scarf.

0:31:430:31:45

I think this will add a little extra to it.

0:31:450:31:48

Oh, gosh, that's a terrible zip. I've got a lot of puckering here.

0:31:480:31:52

I'm just going to iron it as well as I can.

0:31:520:31:56

Five minutes!

0:31:560:31:57

I can't get my needle through.

0:31:590:32:01

I'm not panicking.

0:32:030:32:04

I'm going to attach this, then, back onto the bodice.

0:32:040:32:07

But that'll be OK, I can do that.

0:32:070:32:09

-30 seconds!

-Argh!

0:32:140:32:16

All right, that's it, time!

0:32:240:32:26

Come on, bring them up.

0:32:280:32:30

# It must be something psychological... #

0:32:310:32:35

It's judgment time, and Esme and Patrick will have no idea

0:32:350:32:39

whose alteration is whose.

0:32:390:32:41

First reactions, please.

0:32:450:32:47

There are a lot of skirts. There are a couple that stand out,

0:32:470:32:50

but there are a few for me that seem to be lacking

0:32:500:32:52

a little bit of wow.

0:32:520:32:54

I'm really disappointed.

0:32:540:32:56

I was so excited about this, but look at those skirts.

0:32:560:33:00

I mean, look at that skirt!

0:33:000:33:01

Not only is it not very adventurous, it's just not very well done.

0:33:060:33:10

Are you trying to make it fit?

0:33:100:33:12

-Yes! I'm trying my best.

-Have you succeeded?

-No.

0:33:120:33:15

We've got another skirt.

0:33:170:33:19

They haven't gathered it evenly,

0:33:190:33:20

they've put a little pleat in the back.

0:33:200:33:22

The depth of it is relatively even.

0:33:220:33:24

They've made a little neckerchief,

0:33:240:33:26

obviously had a bit of spare time at the end there.

0:33:260:33:28

I'd have rather have seen the time put into doing something

0:33:280:33:31

a little more adventurous on the skirt.

0:33:310:33:33

-Another gathered skirt.

-And a waistband.

0:33:360:33:39

In 90 minutes, I would have expected something considerably punchier.

0:33:390:33:43

Another skirt.

0:33:480:33:49

The waistband doesn't fit very well, it should have been shaped.

0:33:490:33:52

It's a fairly simple A-line-ish skirt.

0:33:560:34:00

Well, this seems to be the rage. It fits the stand quite well.

0:34:000:34:03

Well, that is true. It just lacks wow.

0:34:030:34:06

-It's a skirt.

-Yep.

0:34:090:34:11

Do you think this bow has been made from scratch?

0:34:110:34:14

Yeah, it must have been.

0:34:140:34:15

-It is a good combination of fabrics and colours.

-Yeah.

0:34:150:34:18

They all work harmoniously. I quite like it.

0:34:180:34:20

This person has put a bit of elastic on the waist.

0:34:250:34:28

There is a lot of reshaping in the back here.

0:34:280:34:31

-I like the blue and the orange.

-I do, too. It's simple.

0:34:310:34:34

I think it's quite striking. It's wearable and it's different.

0:34:340:34:37

-It is wearable, yeah.

-I quite like it.

0:34:370:34:40

This person tried to be experimental and play with the fabric.

0:34:460:34:51

They've used a lot of different techniques. They've draped,

0:34:510:34:53

-they've tucked.

-Yup.

-They've inserted a zip.

0:34:530:34:56

The lining has been used to extend the length,

0:34:560:34:59

which I think is really very clever.

0:34:590:35:00

What we asked for was a bold statement.

0:35:000:35:03

And this is bold, all right.

0:35:030:35:04

This has had godets put into it.

0:35:080:35:11

It's quite hard to sew a godet, but they've done that quite neatly.

0:35:110:35:15

Obviously, it has a lot more shape through the waist

0:35:150:35:17

and it's been shaped through the back.

0:35:170:35:19

-At least it's shown some adventure.

-Yes.

0:35:190:35:21

I'm not a great fan of lace.

0:35:250:35:27

The overall shape hasn't changed, really, very much at all.

0:35:270:35:31

And that zip's too long.

0:35:310:35:33

I mean, just make it at the right length and finish it correctly.

0:35:330:35:37

-They haven't been clear enough or bold enough about it.

-Yeah.

0:35:370:35:41

So who's shown the imagination and skill to transform a garment?

0:35:410:35:45

In tenth place,

0:35:450:35:47

it is the lace-trimmed tabard.

0:35:470:35:50

Up you come, Tracey!

0:35:500:35:53

I thought it was quite flouncy.

0:35:530:35:55

-I mean, it is flouncy, that's for sure.

-That's for sure.

0:35:550:35:58

In ninth place,

0:35:580:36:00

this one, with the grey inserted side panels.

0:36:000:36:03

That doesn't, to me, in skirt form, say you.

0:36:040:36:09

Duncan is eighth,

0:36:090:36:10

Josh seventh,

0:36:100:36:12

Ghislaine sixth,

0:36:120:36:14

Charlotte fifth,

0:36:140:36:15

and in fourth place is Angeline.

0:36:150:36:17

In third place is this blue and orange dress.

0:36:180:36:22

It's quite striking.

0:36:230:36:25

In second place...

0:36:250:36:27

It's the sequinned insertions.

0:36:300:36:33

It was a bold idea, it's got impact.

0:36:330:36:36

Overall, I think it's an excellent piece of work, so well done.

0:36:360:36:39

In first place is this one.

0:36:390:36:42

THEY CLAP Come on, Jamie!

0:36:420:36:44

You were bold, you tried to do a bit of draping,

0:36:460:36:48

you used the lining, you really took on the challenge.

0:36:480:36:52

It's not to show us how technically competent you are,

0:36:520:36:56

-it's about your ability to imagine clothes.

-Thank you so much.

0:36:560:37:01

That's the end of your first day on Sewing Bee.

0:37:010:37:04

Go home, we'll see you tomorrow for the big challenge.

0:37:040:37:08

-Jamie's flying.

-I thought it was all going to go wrong.

-Aw, give off!

0:37:080:37:12

Today has taught me I can loosen up a little bit.

0:37:120:37:15

I guess I was a bit brave,

0:37:150:37:16

braver than I would be in my own sewing room.

0:37:160:37:18

I came second. I would rather have come first.

0:37:180:37:22

I wasn't quite happy with my final outcome.

0:37:220:37:25

It isn't as outrageous as me, in a way.

0:37:250:37:29

That challenge was horrible.

0:37:290:37:31

Just one challenge remains before one sewer is awarded

0:37:400:37:43

Garment of the Week, and someone is asked to leave the sewing room.

0:37:430:37:47

Jamie came first twice.

0:37:470:37:49

The way that he handled that very difficult georgette,

0:37:490:37:51

was really fantastic.

0:37:510:37:53

Angeline did well on the alteration challenge.

0:37:530:37:56

I liked her selection of colours.

0:37:560:37:58

Charlotte came second in the chevron challenge.

0:37:580:38:02

She was kind of panicking with the cutting out,

0:38:020:38:04

but actually she matched it really well.

0:38:040:38:07

Do you have an inkling about who might be leaving?

0:38:070:38:09

Duncan definitely struggled with his finishing.

0:38:090:38:12

Rumana, I think, perhaps nerves got the better of her

0:38:120:38:14

-in the first challenge.

-Yeah, I agree.

0:38:140:38:16

Josh, had he just finished off those armholes, I think he'd have finished

0:38:160:38:20

quite a lot further up,

0:38:200:38:22

and I think Tracey's in that mix, as well.

0:38:220:38:24

For each week's final challenge, there will be no mannequins.

0:38:260:38:30

The sewers will be making clothes that must fit a real person.

0:38:300:38:33

All right? Nice to meet you.

0:38:330:38:35

Welcome back, sewers. For your first made-to-measure challenge,

0:38:350:38:39

the judges would like you to make skirts.

0:38:390:38:41

You can make mini, maxi, anything you like,

0:38:410:38:44

but the fit has to be perfect.

0:38:440:38:47

You have five hours. Enormous luck.

0:38:470:38:50

Your time starts now.

0:38:500:38:51

All right, must remain calm.

0:38:530:38:55

This is the second skirt I've made in my entire life.

0:38:550:38:58

For the made-to-measure challenge, the sewers have had a chance

0:38:580:39:00

to practise at home with their chosen pattern.

0:39:000:39:03

-Does that feel too tight?

-No, that feels OK, actually.

0:39:030:39:05

But now, for the first time, they'll be working

0:39:050:39:08

with their chosen fabric and must fit their skirt to their model.

0:39:080:39:11

Isn't a skirt quite simple, cos that's just about the waist?

0:39:110:39:14

The waist is very important,

0:39:140:39:16

but they might have a tight-fitting skirt.

0:39:160:39:18

What I'm really intrigued to see is at what point

0:39:180:39:21

they start trying it on the model.

0:39:210:39:23

If you were doing this challenge,

0:39:230:39:25

how many times, then, would you be holding it up to the model?

0:39:250:39:27

How many measurements would you take?

0:39:270:39:29

I wouldn't hold it up, I'd put it on the model and pin it.

0:39:290:39:32

We're also going to see whether they understand fabric,

0:39:320:39:34

as well as whether they understand fit.

0:39:340:39:36

-Once the sewers have measured their models...

-Perfect.

0:39:360:39:39

..they'll need to adjust the size of their standard pattern piece...

0:39:390:39:43

Right, let's do some cutting.

0:39:430:39:45

..and cut their fabric to the new measurements for a perfect fit.

0:39:450:39:48

I've chosen this taffeta. It's got a nice body to it.

0:39:480:39:52

It's quite swishy and sticky-outy, and it's going to have a

0:39:520:39:55

bit of a petticoat underneath, so it's going to be quite '50s-ish.

0:39:550:39:59

Charlotte's 1950s three-quarter-length circle skirt

0:39:590:40:02

-will have a high waistband.

-I've got everything down to the minute.

0:40:020:40:05

I've got 20 minutes to cut it out and I'm already 15 minutes into that

0:40:050:40:08

and I've cut one bit.

0:40:080:40:10

So I'm doing a circle skirt, so the main fabric is 100% silk,

0:40:100:40:14

but it's actually not too bad to work with.

0:40:140:40:16

And I just think all these little petals give it really nice movement.

0:40:160:40:20

Duncan's silk petal skirt

0:40:200:40:22

will be lined on the inside

0:40:220:40:23

and will have a ribbed, stretch cotton waistband.

0:40:230:40:27

I think these petals, they're catching on pins,

0:40:270:40:29

so I've just really taken the time to make sure I don't snag it.

0:40:290:40:33

My thoughts for this fabric was quite summery.

0:40:330:40:35

Me and my friends always go to the races in the summer,

0:40:350:40:37

a big day out, and I love the thought of girls going to the

0:40:370:40:40

races in nice, long skirts.

0:40:400:40:42

Josh is using stretch denim

0:40:420:40:44

to make a flared skirt,

0:40:440:40:45

which is fitted to a yoked waist.

0:40:450:40:47

There should be one more piece.

0:40:490:40:51

I can't find the back waistband piece.

0:40:510:40:55

No, it's not here.

0:40:550:40:57

The plan was to cut it all out and sew it together,

0:40:570:41:00

and now I'm probably going to have to construct

0:41:000:41:02

one of my pattern pieces by guessing.

0:41:020:41:06

While Josh's lost pattern piece has just made his skirt

0:41:060:41:09

even harder to make...

0:41:090:41:11

I'm going to have to draft one.

0:41:110:41:13

..one sewer has risked self-drafting all their pattern pieces.

0:41:130:41:16

I don't do lots of self-drafted patterns,

0:41:160:41:20

but when you want the perfect fit, sometimes it is best.

0:41:200:41:23

Jade's making a high-waisted tutu skirt,

0:41:230:41:26

with two contrasting net fabrics.

0:41:260:41:28

It'll be fastened with an oversized metal zip.

0:41:280:41:31

-And that's going to be exposed?

-Yeah, that's going to be exposed.

0:41:310:41:34

-You're going to see that down the centre back.

-OK.

0:41:340:41:36

The first thing that I want to do is just cut the waistband out,

0:41:360:41:39

because this is the most crucial part.

0:41:390:41:42

-And are you boning this?

-I am.

0:41:420:41:44

Jade's waistband is so large,

0:41:440:41:46

she needs to support it with thin lengths of plastic called boning.

0:41:460:41:50

It kind of gives more shape, so it actually fits into your curves.

0:41:500:41:53

How are you going to sew it in?

0:41:530:41:54

What I'll do is I'll sew into the seam, so hopefully

0:41:540:41:58

if I get it in-between the seams, you won't be able to see...

0:41:580:42:00

OK, so you've obviously done boning before.

0:42:000:42:03

Yeah, I made my prom dress, so I had to have boning in it.

0:42:030:42:07

It's actually a pattern I found online,

0:42:070:42:10

and it's actually a combination of an apron pattern and a self-drafted

0:42:100:42:13

kind of pattern, where I'm just going to add in my own tweaks to it.

0:42:130:42:16

Rumana's full-length gathered skirt

0:42:160:42:18

will have a Japanese obi-style

0:42:180:42:20

wraparound waistband.

0:42:200:42:21

That sits quite high on the waist, it's high-waisted,

0:42:210:42:24

and then you've got these ties that come off and go round again,

0:42:240:42:27

so I'm just matching the end of the waistband with the tie.

0:42:270:42:30

This is the fiddliest bit.

0:42:300:42:32

Once I get this done, I can make sure it fits and then carry on.

0:42:320:42:36

Right, missus, let's do this.

0:42:360:42:38

Angeline has already finished cutting out,

0:42:380:42:41

allowing her to begin pinning on her model.

0:42:410:42:43

I do make a lot of clothes for my friends,

0:42:430:42:45

so I'm used to making for other people. I think this will be fine.

0:42:450:42:48

She's making a tight-fitting pencil skirt with a gathered peplum

0:42:480:42:52

and contrasting piped trim.

0:42:520:42:54

You can go, missus.

0:42:540:42:56

I'd like to impress Esme, especially after the alteration comments.

0:42:560:42:59

I know what they're looking for now,

0:42:590:43:01

so that gives me the opportunity, then, to just go mad.

0:43:010:43:05

-Oopsy-daisy. Can you just hold it there?

-Yeah.

0:43:050:43:08

Wiggle as best you can.

0:43:080:43:09

I'm going to try and avoid sticking pins in you.

0:43:090:43:12

Before any seams are sewn...

0:43:120:43:13

I can see where I need to pull it in a little bit.

0:43:130:43:16

..the sewers should take the time to check their cut pattern pieces

0:43:160:43:19

against their model.

0:43:190:43:21

Oh, gosh, that looks great.

0:43:210:43:24

Ghislaine is making a wraparound skirt,

0:43:240:43:26

gathered with box pleats

0:43:260:43:28

and a bow fastening.

0:43:280:43:29

I've done my waistband already with my bow,

0:43:290:43:32

and then I'm going to attach the whole thing

0:43:320:43:34

and I've got three metres of hand-stitched hem to do.

0:43:340:43:40

How're you doing, Tracey?

0:43:420:43:43

All right, I'm starting to put the waistband on.

0:43:430:43:45

So it should come round like that

0:43:450:43:47

and then tuck in into a really nice pleat, like this.

0:43:470:43:51

Right, turn round again.

0:43:510:43:53

The fitting of the waistband is the most important thing,

0:43:530:43:55

purely because that's the only part that is going to be slick

0:43:550:43:58

and fitted to the model's body.

0:43:580:44:00

I'm just going to look at it from a distance.

0:44:000:44:02

If you don't get this bit right, it's pretty pointless

0:44:020:44:04

-doing the skirt.

-Turn round.

0:44:040:44:05

Brilliant.

0:44:070:44:08

-SEWING MACHINE WHIRS

-I haven't done any fitting yet.

0:44:080:44:11

I'm just waiting to do my zip, so then I get this big rectangle

0:44:110:44:14

and I can just gather the top to fit her properly.

0:44:140:44:16

Small, little bits that had to be taken in,

0:44:160:44:19

but otherwise I've actually drawn it OK.

0:44:190:44:22

While Jade's self-drafted waistband is ready for boning,

0:44:220:44:25

it's the moment of truth for Josh's guesswork.

0:44:250:44:29

I lost the pattern piece and I just had to guess.

0:44:290:44:31

I just want to get it to fit correctly.

0:44:310:44:36

-I think that's a little bit too loose here, isn't it?

-Yeah.

0:44:360:44:39

So I'm going to bring it in just a little bit up there,

0:44:390:44:42

so we want about half an inch again.

0:44:420:44:45

-Is that all right there?

-Yeah, that feels good.

0:44:450:44:47

The waistband fits brilliant.

0:44:470:44:49

I've never fitted to a model before, and I just hope it doesn't show.

0:44:490:44:54

Even if they're happy with their first fittings...

0:44:550:44:58

OK, I think we're good.

0:44:580:45:00

..some of the sewers have chosen to make this first made-to-measure

0:45:000:45:03

challenge even harder.

0:45:030:45:05

Am I being brave working with chiffon?

0:45:050:45:07

Probably, or stupid, one of the two.

0:45:070:45:09

Jamie is going to apply

0:45:090:45:11

a flounce, made of delicate chiffon, to the front of his skirt.

0:45:110:45:14

The kind of style I would like to wear if I was going to wear a skirt,

0:45:140:45:18

I guess.

0:45:180:45:19

He's hoping his flounce will add a feature to his classic

0:45:190:45:22

A-line skirt.

0:45:220:45:23

I've got to say, I don't love a flounce, but...

0:45:230:45:28

I'm looking forward to seeing this garment because the colours

0:45:280:45:31

work really well and there's a beautiful lightness to all of this.

0:45:310:45:34

-So you'll have hemmed that?

-Yes, rolled hem.

0:45:340:45:37

That's going to show us some fine skills,

0:45:370:45:39

if you can do a nice, neat rolled hem on that one.

0:45:390:45:41

-Why do I open my mouth?

-THEY LAUGH

0:45:410:45:44

-Done that bit.

-Tracey is also taking a risk.

0:45:450:45:48

She's the only sewer attempting pockets.

0:45:480:45:51

So it kind of goes there.

0:45:510:45:53

Waistband's here, and then the front of the skirt will come there,

0:45:530:45:57

so you'll actually see this part of the design.

0:45:570:46:00

Tracey's making a woollen circle skirt,

0:46:000:46:02

with front hip pockets.

0:46:020:46:04

The trickiest bit is the trim on the pocket,

0:46:040:46:06

cos it'll be a pleat on the bias, which is a bit fiddly.

0:46:060:46:10

It's actually called a pleating board.

0:46:100:46:12

It's just made out of lining paper and card, it's nothing fancy.

0:46:120:46:15

So that will then curve along the edge of the pocket, like that.

0:46:150:46:18

This is the first godet that's gone in and I've got another...

0:46:200:46:23

..seven to do.

0:46:250:46:26

Joyce is the only sewer attempting a multi-panelled skirt.

0:46:260:46:30

Eight godets, cut from stretch jersey fabric,

0:46:300:46:32

should give the skirt volume.

0:46:320:46:35

How many different bits have you had to cut out?

0:46:350:46:37

One, two, three, four, five, six,

0:46:370:46:39

seven, eight, nine, ten,

0:46:390:46:40

-11, 12.

-12!

0:46:400:46:43

Look, at the moment, we're there.

0:46:430:46:46

-So that's your skirt so far?

-Yes.

0:46:460:46:49

I don't want anyone to panic, but how long have you got?

0:46:490:46:52

Sewers, you have one hour left!

0:46:530:46:56

It will go like that.

0:46:580:47:00

Oh, great.

0:47:000:47:01

My rolled hem is on a curve, so that makes it even more tricky.

0:47:050:47:09

And this beautiful chiffon slips all over the place.

0:47:090:47:12

I am attaching my bias binding, and I have got this much to go.

0:47:130:47:19

So that's the finished effect on the pocket.

0:47:190:47:21

So, happy with that.

0:47:210:47:23

All my threads keep snapping

0:47:230:47:24

when I'm trying to do my gathering stitch.

0:47:240:47:26

This is the peplum.

0:47:260:47:28

I love the effect that it gives at the bottom, that curved appearance.

0:47:280:47:32

OK, I'm just going to have a look and see if it's currently even.

0:47:320:47:37

It is.

0:47:370:47:38

I'm just doing a double hem, where you fold the fabric up once

0:47:400:47:43

and then you fold it over again,

0:47:430:47:45

so all the raw edges are concealed on the inside.

0:47:450:47:47

We could really carefully try this on,

0:47:500:47:52

just make sure it's not madly off.

0:47:520:47:53

This is my fear.

0:47:560:47:58

Turn round, please.

0:47:580:48:00

I have just added bias bind around the hem.

0:48:000:48:03

Because I'm trying to take out the blue in this fabric,

0:48:030:48:05

I have the blue piping,

0:48:050:48:07

and then the blue bias bind will just finish it off.

0:48:070:48:10

Boys and girls, 20 minutes!

0:48:100:48:12

Yes, I am drowning in a lot of net.

0:48:120:48:15

Keep calm and sew on.

0:48:190:48:21

# Soon I will be done with the troubles of the world

0:48:210:48:25

# Soon I will be done with the troubles of the skirt. #

0:48:250:48:28

Good, good, good.

0:48:280:48:30

-With a good press...

-Yeah.

-..I'm happy.

0:48:300:48:32

-Oh, that's dangerous.

-HE SIGHS

0:48:320:48:35

I am very roughly evening up the hammer.

0:48:350:48:38

The sort of look-and-chop approach to hemming.

0:48:380:48:41

Five minutes, everybody! Five minutes.

0:48:480:48:50

You're done.

0:48:500:48:51

Oh, God, this is mad, this is mad.

0:48:510:48:53

I've just got a horrible crease in this bit.

0:48:530:48:55

God, actually, could you take it off for a second?

0:48:590:49:02

-Duncan, you all right?

-I need to turn it and stitch it, I think.

0:49:020:49:05

I'm just really hoping this fits. Sorry.

0:49:050:49:07

-HE SIGHS

-OK...

0:49:100:49:13

-That's lovely.

-Yeah, really good.

0:49:130:49:15

SHE SIGHS

0:49:150:49:17

This is so ropey.

0:49:190:49:21

Oh, God, everyone has made such amazing things.

0:49:230:49:27

Yeah, get yourself tucked in nice and good.

0:49:270:49:29

-Right, Duncan...

-I know, I know.

-..you have one minute.

0:49:290:49:32

-OK.

-OK.

0:49:360:49:38

OK, your time is up!

0:49:380:49:40

THEY CLAP

0:49:400:49:42

Well done.

0:49:430:49:46

I'll drink my tea now.

0:49:460:49:47

I'm sorry they didn't put a drop of whisky in it, frankly,

0:49:470:49:50

but there we go.

0:49:500:49:51

You're going to show your beautiful creations to the judges

0:49:510:49:54

and then they're going to choose Garment of the Week. Yay!

0:49:540:49:57

And ask somebody to leave, but let's not make a fuss about that.

0:49:570:50:00

# I'm all dressed up with a broken heart...#

0:50:010:50:07

Ten skirts, made to measure from scratch in just five hours.

0:50:070:50:11

First impressions?

0:50:170:50:19

I think it fits really well under her arse.

0:50:190:50:23

-LAUGHTER

-That was the intention.

0:50:230:50:26

-It's sexy.

-Is she making you blush?

-SHE LAUGHS

0:50:260:50:31

No, it is, it's a great fit.

0:50:310:50:33

It's absolutely fitted, to the point that it flares out with that peplum.

0:50:330:50:36

The height of that waistband, just the overall balance of it,

0:50:360:50:40

is really nice.

0:50:400:50:42

And the blues are really well matched in the print

0:50:420:50:45

and the piping and the bias at the bottom.

0:50:450:50:47

I think it's a knockout.

0:50:470:50:49

That wide waistband, I really like.

0:50:570:50:58

I think the depth of that band is spot-on.

0:50:580:51:01

-And you've matched it here, haven't you?

-Yeah.

0:51:010:51:04

I think these seams could've been a little bit better pressed,

0:51:040:51:07

and then almost you wouldn't see the join.

0:51:070:51:09

I was very intrigued with the idea of turning an apron into a skirt

0:51:090:51:12

and doing the wrapping.

0:51:120:51:14

I think that works really well.

0:51:140:51:16

First thing to say is that it moves really well.

0:51:210:51:24

The waist looks like a good fit.

0:51:240:51:26

In one way, it works fabulously, the fabric,

0:51:260:51:28

it's got that weight to it and it moves,

0:51:280:51:31

but we can't see the cut of your skirt.

0:51:310:51:33

The overall effect is really good.

0:51:380:51:40

My only criticism would be, this is a light, light fabric

0:51:400:51:44

and it's going to wrinkle like mad.

0:51:440:51:46

All of this pleating, it really needs a solid press.

0:51:460:51:49

I'm really intrigued to see your pockets with the pleating.

0:51:550:51:59

That's worked, hasn't it?

0:51:590:52:01

There's too much fabric here. You haven't moved it round evenly.

0:52:010:52:04

There is a rise and fall in that bottom hem.

0:52:040:52:06

The big difficulty with a circle skirt

0:52:060:52:09

is keeping it level all the way round.

0:52:090:52:11

I love your spotty flock fabric.

0:52:190:52:21

I also like the fact that you've lined your spots

0:52:210:52:23

up right down the centre front, which I think is really important.

0:52:230:52:26

But you haven't on the back, have you?

0:52:260:52:28

And it really, really jumps out at you.

0:52:280:52:31

First things first, shall we talk about the fit?

0:52:420:52:44

Shall we talk about the flounce, cos it hits me in the eye?

0:52:440:52:47

It's a very, very difficult thing to do,

0:52:470:52:50

to roll a hem on such a delicate fabric.

0:52:500:52:53

It's a bit lumpy and bumpy.

0:52:530:52:55

I think it's a very good fit there, it's a good fit on the seat.

0:52:550:52:58

My big thing is just the point at which this flounce finishes.

0:52:580:53:02

I think it would have been way better

0:53:020:53:04

if it had gone all the way round.

0:53:040:53:06

It's almost like you've got a front and then a different back.

0:53:060:53:09

Very fair comment.

0:53:090:53:11

-The overall impression is fantastic.

-Yes.

0:53:160:53:19

What I particularly like is the way the grey and the black

0:53:190:53:22

are showing through one another.

0:53:220:53:24

The silver highlights the edge. That works well.

0:53:240:53:27

The way that you've balanced the silver of the binding

0:53:270:53:30

with the chunky, oversized metal zip, I think shows, A - confidence,

0:53:300:53:35

and, B - a thought about the coherence of the whole thing.

0:53:350:53:38

You've shown your style and your personality

0:53:380:53:40

-in this skirt, definitely.

-Thank you.

0:53:400:53:43

I think this fabric is really pretty.

0:53:530:53:55

I think it does work, but where I am a little concerned,

0:53:550:53:57

-it is a bit loose on the waist.

-Yeah.

0:53:570:54:00

Can you see how it's jutting out like that?

0:54:000:54:02

If it had been shaped, it would have sat closer to the body.

0:54:020:54:05

The major thing, I think, is the uneven hem.

0:54:050:54:08

You did it quickly and you did it freehand, you've just got to make

0:54:080:54:11

sure it's absolutely perfect, cos these things matter.

0:54:110:54:14

I think it's not the most complicated skirt,

0:54:250:54:28

but you've executed it extremely well.

0:54:280:54:31

I love the choice of fabric.

0:54:310:54:33

Actually, it's got a bit of stretch in.

0:54:330:54:35

-And you lost your yoke pattern, didn't you?

-Yes.

0:54:350:54:38

That's stressful for you, but you have managed to make it work.

0:54:380:54:42

I think the fit's really good. It's hugging all the way round.

0:54:420:54:46

In terms of level, it's near enough bang on, so very well done on that.

0:54:460:54:52

Thank you.

0:54:520:54:54

So you all did brilliantly, a huge well done.

0:54:540:54:57

Go and have a group cuddle, and then, when you come back,

0:54:570:55:01

Patrick and Esme will announce the Garment of the Week, yay,

0:55:010:55:06

but then will sadly choose somebody to leave the Sewing Bee.

0:55:060:55:09

I'm not ready to leave. I don't think anybody wants to leave.

0:55:140:55:17

I really want to stay, just to prove to them that I can finish something.

0:55:170:55:20

'I'm just really happy that I managed to make a skirt.'

0:55:200:55:23

The longer I'm here, I'll keep learning and I hope that

0:55:230:55:26

I'll just keep getting better.

0:55:260:55:28

I think Josh has probably rescued himself with what I think is

0:55:280:55:32

a really competent piece of sewing.

0:55:320:55:34

It fitted well, the hem was great.

0:55:340:55:37

Tracey's overall...

0:55:370:55:38

I mean, I think we both agree that we do not love this.

0:55:380:55:42

But Duncan's lacked ambition.

0:55:420:55:44

And then we placed Tracey in the middle for this one.

0:55:440:55:47

It was pretty well done.

0:55:470:55:48

Duncan did a good job of matching the pattern,

0:55:480:55:50

but some of the overall finish let him down.

0:55:500:55:53

This is Tracey's. We've got this puckering here

0:55:530:55:55

and the hem was uneven.

0:55:550:55:58

Duncan's, the fabric's pretty, the hem's very uneven

0:55:580:56:01

and he chopped it by eye.

0:56:010:56:03

Well, that didn't work.

0:56:030:56:05

I think it's tough to call between the two.

0:56:050:56:08

-We probably need to have a...

-Confab.

0:56:080:56:11

First, the judges are going to reveal their Garment of the Week,

0:56:160:56:20

so this is the good bit.

0:56:200:56:22

Patrick, reveal.

0:56:220:56:24

Our Garment of the Week this week is...

0:56:240:56:27

THEY CHEER

0:56:290:56:31

And the reason we chose it was fit, finish and fabric.

0:56:320:56:38

-Thank you.

-Now the horrible bit,

0:56:380:56:41

because we've just met you and we don't want any of you to leave.

0:56:410:56:45

The judges have deliberated.

0:56:450:56:47

It was not easy, and the first person leaving the Sewing Bee is...

0:56:470:56:52

It's Duncan. THEY GASP

0:56:580:57:00

Sorry! I'm sorry.

0:57:000:57:02

It's fine. It's fair.

0:57:040:57:06

'Everyone else is just so talented. I did my best.'

0:57:060:57:10

The second challenge, that's where maybe

0:57:100:57:13

I feel that I could have done something different.

0:57:130:57:15

-Oh, thanks.

-You've been brilliant.

0:57:150:57:17

It was a difficult decision, as always.

0:57:170:57:19

'It's sad that anybody has to leave

0:57:190:57:21

'and nobody wants to be the one who goes home on the first week,'

0:57:210:57:24

but he's done fantastically well to get this far.

0:57:240:57:26

-Let me give you a hug.

-Oh, thank you.

0:57:260:57:29

'I found sending Duncan home really, really hard.'

0:57:290:57:33

If Duncan were one of my students, I would say, "Sew more,"

0:57:330:57:36

cos when you sew, you learn how a garment is constructed.

0:57:360:57:40

You always get better. The more you do, the better you get at it.

0:57:400:57:44

I know that it was the last challenge for me

0:57:440:57:47

that actually secured my place in the next week.

0:57:470:57:49

I'm just so happy that I did what I did.

0:57:490:57:51

I don't want anybody to go home!

0:57:510:57:53

Really, really relieved, pleased,

0:57:530:57:56

ecstatic, emotional, everything!

0:57:560:57:59

Next week, I'm really going to go for it and really prove

0:57:590:58:01

that I've deserved to get past week one.

0:58:010:58:04

'There's incredible sewers in there,'

0:58:040:58:06

so to be awarded Garment of the Week is overwhelming

0:58:060:58:09

and just very humbling.

0:58:090:58:11

I'm really proud,

0:58:130:58:14

and I know my friends and family will be proud of me.

0:58:140:58:16

I'm slightly disappointed for them, that's the thing.

0:58:160:58:19

But, you know, it's been so much fun.

0:58:190:58:21

On the next Sewing Bee, the sewers make children's clothes.

0:58:230:58:28

There you go, little man.

0:58:280:58:29

Patterns go pint-size...

0:58:290:58:31

Oh, my God, these cuffs are teensy.

0:58:310:58:33

..alterations get slippery...

0:58:330:58:35

Come on!

0:58:350:58:37

-..and they get worked up over wool.

-Ooh!

0:58:370:58:40

But who will get Garment of the Week?

0:58:400:58:43

The pressure is on.

0:58:430:58:45

And who will be the next to leave? SHE GASPS

0:58:450:58:47

-This has got to come off.

-CLAUDIA SCREAMS

0:58:470:58:49

Claudia Winkleman hosts a new eight-part series of The Great British Sewing Bee. Under the scrutiny of Savile Row's Patrick Grant and Central St Martin's Esme Young, ten fresh-faced home sewers face three challenges designed to test their skill and understanding of basic garment construction. First, the sewers follow a pattern for a woman's top made up of four pieces. However, it is deceptively difficult, demanding accurate pattern matching skills, a steady hand for cutting and precision sewing.

Next, the judges want their personal style and imagination to come to the fore by transforming a maternity dress in just 90 minutes. Finally, they take on the Made to Measure challenge, fitting a skirt to a real model. Who can keep their cool to produce a flattering waistline and perfectly level hem, and who will falter and be the first to leave the sewing room?