Fake Food Special Fake Britain


Fake Food Special

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Hello and welcome to a very special edition of Fake Britain.

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By now, we're all familiar with the horsemeat scandal.

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But Fake Britain has discovered that many other foods are being mis-sold,

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mislabelled or mistaken for the real thing.

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In fact, it turns out that food fakery is much more common

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than you might think.

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Today's programme is a menu full of fakes.

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We have a fish dish that nearly killed a man.

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Without instant medical assistance, I probably would have died.

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A big-money ethical jam, where the main ingredient was fraud.

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What people don't expect is that fruit described as "Suffolk"

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is actually from China.

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And when is a ham not a ham?

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Well, when it's on top of some pizzas, apparently.

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It seems we haven't been getting what we ordered at the takeaway.

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-Is this actually ham on the pizza or is it...?

-It's turkey.

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We eat 250 million portions of this every year.

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Yes, it's fish and chips - the UK's number one favourite takeaway.

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But this is the Fake Britain house, so it won't surprise you to know

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that under the batter, not everything is as it seems.

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When it comes to food, we all expect to get what we're paying for,

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but now that the fakers have got hold of it,

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even a good old plate of fish and chips isn't safe.

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Stefano Mariani of Salford University conducted a survey

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across Britain that shows just how widespread fish fakery has become.

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In the UK, we found that 7%

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of about 100 samples that we screened were mislabelled.

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The cases of mislabelling are clearly making certain people rich.

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Stefano's survey was one of the first to flag up that the UK

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fish industry was being hit by fakery.

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As ever, it's all about money.

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Customers weren't getting what they asked for.

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They were paying for cod - which is an expensive fish -

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and they were being given something much cheaper.

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Restaurants and pubs with fish on the menu now don't legally

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have to specify which fish they are serving, but for Luke Marvell,

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a visit to a pub that he used to work in

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highlighted the dangers of not knowing what you're eating.

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When I worked there, the fish was haddock and it was all hand-battered.

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We chose to have that. It was good produce, and I had enjoyed it in the past.

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It wasn't something that was completely new to me.

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But unbeknownst to Luke, since he worked there,

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the fish had been changed, and it was no longer haddock.

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I instantly knew something was wrong within a mouthful.

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There was an instant reaction and I just couldn't breathe.

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My face began to itch and it went from there.

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Luke's throat began to swell,

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but because he had never had an experience like this before,

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he had absolutely no idea what was wrong with him.

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Yeah, at first, I just thought I was choking on a bit of food.

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I got a glass of water and it didn't help, cos I couldn't swallow it.

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It was kind of like a stinging sensation, like a stinging nettle.

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That kind of sensation.

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But yeah, all across my head, and my lips apparently went blue.

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Luke had suffered a massive allergic reaction.

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His friend called an ambulance,

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and within 10 minutes of eating the fish,

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he was on his way to hospital, where he was pumped

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full of adrenaline to make the reactions subside.

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It's anaphylactic shock, so without instant medical assistance,

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I probably would have died.

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Luke was soon referred to an allergy consultant to find out what it was

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that he had reacted to so violently.

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I went into the pub and asked what the fish was,

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and they had to check and read it off the box, because they had no idea.

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E-mailed the name to my allergy consultant,

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because she had never heard of it either.

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Luke found out that the name of the fish he had eaten was pangasius,

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a cheaply-priced type of catfish from Vietnam.

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Got a bit of the fish, took it into the hospital,

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went through the system of putting little dabs on your arms,

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and within ten seconds of it touching my skin, a lump came up on my arm,

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so we kind of knew it was that.

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British law states that customers should always be given what they ask for.

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And with food allergies increasingly common,

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it's clear the law is there for a good reason.

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The pub hadn't done anything wrong.

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They had just written "fish" on their menu.

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But Luke Marvell didn't know he had an allergy to the fish he had eaten.

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Worryingly, it seems that more and more of us are finding that

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we aren't getting the fish we've asked for in chippies and restaurants.

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Trading Standards teams across the country have found that

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when customers have asked and paid for cod, they've sometimes

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been given pangasius, which is half the price of cod.

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And sometimes they've been given haddock,

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which is also cheaper than cod.

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Officers in Wales surveyed their local chippies.

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Can I have a piece of cod, please?

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I'm from Trading Standards.

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They ordered cod from local restaurants and takeaways...

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I'm from Trading Standards.

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..and had the lab analyse what they had been sold.

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The results were a surprise.

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The overall results were that across all six authorities,

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of the 42 samples, seven came back incorrectly,

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which is around 16-17%.

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If that level of fish fakery is the same right across the country,

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hundreds of thousands of us are being deceived every week.

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For Luke Marvell, it's a risk he's no longer prepared to take.

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I occasionally eat fish and chips now,

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but it's very much a case of, "I'll make it myself," so I know what's gone in it.

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Maybe you're one of those people who avoids takeaway foods.

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Perhaps your weekly shopping basket is a free range and organic bonanza.

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The top end of the food chain has got its share of fake products too.

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You may have been paying a huge mark-up for premium food that was nothing of the sort.

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Food fraud, it would seem, is all around us.

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Suffolk Trading Standards officer Clare Davies makes routine

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inspections of food premises to ensure a level playing field amongst companies.

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We visit manufacturers to find out whether the claims

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they put on their packaging are accurate, that the food is fresh,

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it's organic, or it might be origin claims, like the food is local.

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On a visit to a farm shop, Clare came across a series of very

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expensive jams, made by a company called Stonham Hedgerow.

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She decided to investigate whether the claims made by the manufacturers were actually true.

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This is the leaflet that we found displayed next to the jams on sale.

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It makes various claims. So, for example, we've got,

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"Made by hand in Suffolk from whole and fresh fruit,"

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and inside, we've got a claim about the origin of the product.

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So, here it says, "We use a range of East Anglian soft fruits in all

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"the jams, so unusually, our strawberry jam is genuinely English."

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But as Clare was about to find out,

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that couldn't have been further from the truth.

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When she visited the company, they admitted they were using some

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frozen fruit, but a whole lot more fakery was about to emerge.

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The company indicated they used another supplier in Suffolk.

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Our food officers visit all companies in Suffolk,

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so we were aware of this particular supplier.

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We knew that they were a supplier of frozen and imported fruits.

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That was a trigger for looking into it a little bit more.

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Clare made test purchases.

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Liaising with the supplier and using the batch number on the bottom of the jars,

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she was able to trace the precise origin of each pot of jam.

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She also went back through Stonham's fruit supply history to 2008.

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She couldn't believe what she discovered.

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The company hadn't actually sourced any fruit from Suffolk during that period.

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We have a certificate of origin which shows that the strawberries in this

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specific batch of jam that we were looking at originates from

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the People's Republic of China.

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We have a shipment of 2,400 cartons of frozen strawberries to the supplier,

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and then part of that batch was then supplied to Stonham Hedgerow.

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Stonham Hedgerow claimed it was selling "genuinely English" strawberry jam.

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In reality, it was buying in frozen fruit from halfway around the world.

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The company was selling fake jam.

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Clare's investigation showed that since 2008,

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the company had progressively sourced its fruit from further

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and farther away from Suffolk.

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The fruit was sourced from Essex and then further afield to Norfolk,

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a bit further afield to Yorkshire, and then to Europe.

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So the fruit was sourced from Poland, and then more recently,

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the fruit was sourced from China.

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The maths of the fakers' operation soon became clear.

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Had the company used genuine, fresh, local fruit,

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it would have cost over £50 for a 20-kilo batch.

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In reality, during the period that Clare checked,

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they were getting their fruit for a lot less.

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What we're looking at here is a table which shows us fruit prices

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and the corresponding origin of that fruit.

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What we can see through the timeline is the fruit got cheaper as

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the fruit was sourced from further afield.

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Using frozen strawberries from Essex brought the cost down to £40.

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From Norfolk, to £35.

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The Suffolk fruit would have cost £50.

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The company then went to Yorkshire,

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and the frozen strawberries there came in at £30.

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Finally, September 2010 to March '11, we have frozen strawberries

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coming in from China, and the price was £1.27 a kilo.

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So the cost of fruit has, you know, gone down to £25.

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The company had halved their fruit costs by buying cheap,

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frozen fruit from China.

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But they were still charging consumers a small fortune for their fake premium jams.

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£3.85, it's one of the most expensive jams we found in the market.

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We went into a supermarket and picked up a jar of strawberry jam for, I think, about 69p.

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In reality, you're probably not getting an awful lot more.

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Fake origin claims were found with six varieties of the company's jam.

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Stonham Hedgerow were in a sticky situation.

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The company pleaded guilty to 12 charges of falsely

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claiming its jams contained locally-sourced produce.

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Not only were their strawberries from China, but their blackcurrants,

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redcurrants and raspberries were actually from Poland.

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Their fines and costs came to over £12,000.

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They've since removed the description "Suffolk" from their ingredients list.

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They are also no longer producing misleading literature.

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Suffolk is known as a foodie destination.

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What people don't expect is that fruit described as "Suffolk"

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is actually from China.

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The discovery of the fake food certainly seems to have had

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an effect on the consumer. A recent Which? survey

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found six out of ten people have changed their buying habits

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since the horsemeat scandal started.

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But, even the very top end of the market isn't free from fraud.

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Trading Standards have uncovered major fakery amongst the most

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supposedly ethical suppliers.

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Eight out of ten UK households buy organic food.

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And this husband and wife team saw that as a way to easy money.

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Setting up a firm called Swaddles with this manager,

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they went into the fake organic market, but with a twist.

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They simply repackaged a range of ordinary foods

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and charged premium organic prices for them.

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Basically, they were buying in non-organic ingredients

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and then passing them off as organic.

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And over the five-year period that they were doing this,

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we've calculated that the fraud is worth half-a-million pounds.

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They boasted on their Swaddles website to be "organic, natural, and ethical."

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Trading Standards got a warrant and moved in.

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And they found that Swaddles was a swindle.

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While our officers were there seizing evidence, lo and behold,

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we have two deliveries from their main non-organic suppliers,

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who came in their own-branded vehicles to deliver that very day.

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But it was the paper trail that really shocked them.

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We found that there were bagfuls of receipts

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from their local Waitrose and a local Tesco store,

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where they had quite clearly been going almost on a daily basis

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and purchasing supplies from them.

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The vast majority of those receipts showed

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that they were purchasing non-organic produce.

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Among all this was a vital receipt for a Waitrose salmon costing £20.

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Swaddles then sold it on as organic for £51.

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It was sent to a lab and provided vital evidence in court.

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We had it analysed by the public analyst, and he found that

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it was the artificial colour that was in there,

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so we were satisfied that it was not an organic fish.

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And the Swaddles scam wasn't just supplying food locally.

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It went all the way to the top of the food chain.

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Even Fortnum & Mason were deceived into buying Swaddles'

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fake organic pies.

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With the Royal Warrant over the shop, who knows who has been fooled?

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Using lab analysis, Northampton Trading Standards set out to uncover

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where the pork pies Swaddles were selling really came from.

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They found a locally-produced pie that looked identical.

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We had information that they were buying in pork pies from somewhere.

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In a small village, they discovered an old family butchers making

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delicious pork pies, but they weren't organic.

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By analysis by our public analyst, who chemically analysed them,

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he confirmed that they were the same pies too.

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Chris Saul had no idea Swaddles were buying his pork pies

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at £1.30 apiece and selling them on as organic for £2.50.

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I'm amazed, and...

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well, I find it pathetic, really, that they've got to go and do that.

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So many people that are trying to fraudulently sell you stuff

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that isn't what they say it is.

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And, basically, the number of people that just don't know when enough money is enough.

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People who buy organic food expect it to be organic, and rightly so.

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It should be exactly what it says it is. This is just a complete con.

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In the end, the case went from the kitchen to the courtroom.

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The year-long investigation cost £60,000,

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and all three were found guilty of fraudulent trading.

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Neil Stansfield got 27 months in prison.

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His wife, Kate, got 50 weeks in jail, suspended for two years.

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And their manager got 40 weeks behind bars,

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suspended for two years.

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Are you sorry you lied? Any apologies for those you cheated?

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Apparently not.

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No. No comment.

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I think the sentence is appropriate for the type of crime that he's committed.

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You know, it sends a clear message out to anyone in business

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that this type of fraud won't be tolerated.

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Anything for those you cheated?

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So, selling organic pork that isn't can be disastrous for a business,

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but as we'll now see, some products sold as ham have absolutely

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no ham in them, organic or otherwise.

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During their lifetime, the average Briton will consume 2,500 takeaways.

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It's a fair bet that a big slice of those will be...pizza.

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Surely there's no such thing as a fake pizza? Well, I've got one here.

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You see, one of the most popular toppings for pizza is ham,

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and we've discovered that ham isn't always ham.

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Someone has been telling porkies.

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These Derby Trading Standards officers are ordering pizza,

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but it's not lunchtime.

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Hi, can I order some pizzas, please?

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Three ten-inch Hawaiian.

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Thank you, bye now.

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They're following up on some detective work they've been doing

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on pizza toppings.

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The team has discovered that takeaways in town were

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offering ham pizzas on the menu which produced surprising results

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when that ham was actually analysed.

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I visited numerous establishments throughout Derby

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and was purchasing pizzas which had toppings on described as ham.

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We took ten samples,

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and nine of those came back as turkey on the pizza rather than ham.

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This is a product that many takeaways in the area were using -

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not ham at all. It's turkey. Well, about 30% of it is.

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The rest is mechanically recovered chicken and other ingredients.

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We're now looking to go back to the premises that we visited

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where we found the initial problems

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and we will take formal samples and submit them to an analyst.

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It's four months since the takeaways received their warnings,

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and now it's time to revisit the offending restaurants to see

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if they've cleaned up their act.

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And that's why the team is ordering pizza. Now, it's time to collect.

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-You go in first and just grab it and then we'll walk in.

-Yeah, OK.

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-Hi.

-Hello, there.

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-£12, then.

-Yep.

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My name's Paul King, I'm from Trading Standards. There's my identification.

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Paul explains that they're there to check that what they're putting

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on their menu is the same as what they're putting on their pizzas.

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I can see that you've got the turkey next to your ham on the Hawaiian,

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though obviously you would need to make it clear as well

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it applies to the ham on the Napoli as well.

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After their warning, this shop has made an attempt to comply

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by putting a handwritten "turkey" sign on the menu.

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But Gabrielle thinks there's still more they need to do

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to comply fully with the law.

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The issue is purely about describing things correctly.

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Is that it, can I have a little look? Halal Turkey Julienne.

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So really, what you should be describing it as

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is exactly what it says there, Turkey Julienne.

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They label and bag the pizzas, give one to the shop,

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keep one for themselves and one will be sent to the public analyst.

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Bye now, bye.

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Onto the next shop. Perhaps this one will fare a bit better.

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And is this actually ham that's on the pizza, or is it...?

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Right, OK.

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Yeah, the word "ham" can only be used to describe pork.

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Yeah, you're halal.

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There's no problem with you having turkey and not serving ham,

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but the problem is...

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the way you describe it, exactly.

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Like all the others, this shop is halal,

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so they don't want to serve pork products.

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But they still want their customers to believe

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that they have it on their menu

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because many of the top-selling pizzas have ham on them.

0:19:370:19:41

So they continue to label their pizzas as just that.

0:19:410:19:44

The team moves on to a third shop,

0:19:440:19:46

which has been warned in the past for serving fake ham.

0:19:460:19:50

Hello there.

0:19:500:19:52

I've got an order to collect. We're doing a formal sample.

0:19:520:19:56

And once again, Gabrielle and Paul find them

0:19:560:19:59

serving a turkey substitute instead of ham.

0:19:590:20:02

But the manager thinks he's got an excuse.

0:20:020:20:05

He claims the business has just changed hands,

0:20:050:20:07

and the new owners weren't aware of the situation.

0:20:070:20:11

So when did he take over ownership of the business?

0:20:110:20:14

The third week.

0:20:160:20:17

His co-worker thinks that having only been there for a few weeks

0:20:170:20:21

will get them off the hook.

0:20:210:20:22

Unfortunately, that's exactly what's happened.

0:20:250:20:28

We were here in the summer and we bought pizzas,

0:20:280:20:31

that's why this is a formal sample. Yeah.

0:20:310:20:34

The reality is the name of the person on the wall,

0:20:340:20:37

on the public liability insurance,

0:20:370:20:39

has at least been there since October last year.

0:20:390:20:42

Out of the three pizza shops visited on the day,

0:20:420:20:45

only one has shown any signs of improvement,

0:20:450:20:48

and the other two appear to have ignored Trading Standards' warnings.

0:20:480:20:52

There were some businesses that we thought,

0:20:520:20:54

"They are listening to us," and actually,

0:20:540:20:56

it looks as if we may have been proved wrong.

0:20:560:20:58

But the situation did improve at two of the shops.

0:20:580:21:01

They subsequently labelled their toppings properly,

0:21:010:21:04

while the other one they visited,

0:21:040:21:06

well, that later went out of business.

0:21:060:21:09

MUSIC: "Flight of the Bumblebee" by Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov

0:21:150:21:18

These British bees are busy pollinating flowers

0:21:180:21:20

and producing the 6,000 tonnes of honey

0:21:200:21:23

that the UK creates every year.

0:21:230:21:26

But consumers here eat five times more honey than our bees can make.

0:21:260:21:30

So we import huge amounts from across the world.

0:21:300:21:34

Because we can't produce enough honey to meet demand,

0:21:340:21:37

there's room for the fakers to move in.

0:21:370:21:40

This is the Trading Standards office at Worthing near Brighton in Sussex.

0:21:420:21:46

Like Trading Standards teams across the country,

0:21:460:21:49

they're getting used to seeing food fakery.

0:21:490:21:52

But one recent case they found in a local store surprised even them.

0:21:520:21:57

We basically found a variety of products on sale,

0:21:570:22:01

and one of these was this type of honey product here.

0:22:010:22:04

It's described as honey, but inside it looks like a syrup-based product,

0:22:050:22:09

and that's where our suspicions started off from.

0:22:090:22:12

Trading Standards did a test purchase of a jar

0:22:120:22:15

of the strange-looking honey, and decided to send it for analysis.

0:22:150:22:19

Worthing Council came, they just checked it and it wasn't right,

0:22:190:22:22

so they took it away from us.

0:22:220:22:24

The honey was sent for testing at this specialist lab in Worcester.

0:22:250:22:29

They have a variety of procedures designed to find out

0:22:310:22:35

exactly what's in any product that's sent to them.

0:22:350:22:37

There's a small sample of the supposed honey mixed in with

0:22:410:22:44

other materials in that tiny bottle, but it's

0:22:440:22:47

enough for the machine to analyse exactly which sugars it contains.

0:22:470:22:52

The amount of the various different sugars lets us know

0:22:520:22:55

whether it's a genuine honey or not.

0:22:550:22:57

And elsewhere, the honey was put under extreme magnification.

0:22:570:23:00

Chances are it should contain some of this...

0:23:000:23:03

Pollen.

0:23:030:23:04

If it was a heather honey I would have expected to have seen

0:23:040:23:07

heather pollen, but on this sample there's no pollen grains present.

0:23:070:23:11

And having spun, dipped and micro-analysed the honey,

0:23:110:23:15

they reached their conclusions about what was in the sample.

0:23:150:23:18

The analysis has shown that there's no honey present in the sample,

0:23:180:23:21

and it's most likely a sugar syrup.

0:23:210:23:24

With confirmation that it wasn't actually honey, Trading Standards

0:23:240:23:28

decided that they needed to seize all supplies of the fake spread.

0:23:280:23:32

They traced it to an East London importer

0:23:320:23:34

and took their van to take away whatever they could find.

0:23:340:23:38

When we entered the premises, we discovered over 1.1 tonnes

0:23:380:23:41

of the fake honey, which certainly filled our van on that occasion.

0:23:410:23:45

The company had imported the fake spread from the Middle East,

0:23:450:23:49

and there was a simple economic reason

0:23:490:23:51

why the manufacturer used syrup.

0:23:510:23:53

It's as little as a quarter of the price of quality honey.

0:23:530:23:56

When they described this product as honey,

0:23:560:23:58

they clearly knew it was a syrup-based product,

0:23:580:24:01

a cheaper version and an inferior product.

0:24:010:24:03

And this was where the syrup ended up.

0:24:040:24:06

It's a huge quantity, but it will all have to be destroyed.

0:24:060:24:11

The discovery meant bad news for any shop owner who had

0:24:110:24:14

unwittingly bought in supplies of the fake honey.

0:24:140:24:18

We lost money, and, you know,

0:24:180:24:20

we lost the reputation of the business as well.

0:24:200:24:23

And with all the syrup doing porridge in the Council building,

0:24:230:24:27

fakes are off the morning menu.

0:24:270:24:30

Let's hope we have made the breakfast tables of Worthing a safer place.

0:24:300:24:33

This is Rosie, and she is a free range chicken,

0:24:400:24:43

which means that she's got loads of room to scratch around outside.

0:24:430:24:48

It also means that her eggs are worth more than

0:24:480:24:52

if she was a caged bird and all cooped up.

0:24:520:24:55

That difference in price led to fakery

0:24:550:24:57

on a multi-million pound scale,

0:24:570:24:59

and more importantly, meant that thousands of us ended up

0:24:590:25:03

paying for something that we didn't actually get in our egg cup.

0:25:030:25:07

Welcome to the chicken run.

0:25:100:25:12

If you're one of these birds, the biggest moment of your life comes

0:25:120:25:15

when it's decided if you'll go to a free range farm with plenty of space

0:25:150:25:19

like this one, or become a caged hen laying eggs behind bars.

0:25:190:25:24

Some people still buy the caged hen eggs,

0:25:290:25:31

but con men have given themselves free range

0:25:310:25:35

to label them as something a bit classier.

0:25:350:25:37

Profit. Hard and fast. If you buy a free range egg, £3 a dozen.

0:25:390:25:45

A cage egg would cost you half that, and it's that extra profit

0:25:450:25:49

which drives the criminal element of the industry.

0:25:490:25:53

And it's our job to sniff these people out and to prosecute them.

0:25:530:25:57

The egg industry is under constant attack from fraudsters,

0:25:590:26:02

and Alistair and his team of investigators exposed

0:26:020:26:05

a massive multi-million pound fraud.

0:26:050:26:08

Keith Owen repackaged eggs from places like this and conned

0:26:080:26:12

top supermarkets into thinking they came from wide-open spaces.

0:26:120:26:16

He was found out when Alistair's team made a random visit

0:26:160:26:20

to a warehouse using some forensic technology.

0:26:200:26:23

Chickens can't talk but their eggs can tell a story.

0:26:250:26:29

What we have here is a batch of eggs which

0:26:290:26:32

I have selected at random from the packing centre.

0:26:320:26:36

Can we have the lights out, please? Thank you.

0:26:360:26:39

And we use this ultraviolet light

0:26:390:26:42

to detect the marks which are left on the eggs,

0:26:420:26:46

depending on... The marks depend on the type of cage

0:26:460:26:50

and the type of production unit which the eggs have been produced in.

0:26:500:26:54

When an egg is laid, the shell is wet, and the surface that the

0:26:560:27:01

egg lands on will leave an impression on the shell of the egg.

0:27:010:27:06

This line here is a typical mark which is left by an egg which is

0:27:080:27:13

laid in a cage environment as opposed to a free range or barn system.

0:27:130:27:20

With that evidence, someone else was going to be living behind bars.

0:27:220:27:26

Inspectors had unravelled what was then the largest ever fake food scam

0:27:280:27:33

in Britain, 108 million eggs had been re-labelled.

0:27:330:27:37

Owen was jailed for three years.

0:27:380:27:40

Today's inspection at this farm shows all is well,

0:27:420:27:45

but the owner is angry that several honest farmers

0:27:450:27:48

couldn't compete with the con man and went out of business.

0:27:480:27:51

I think the wake-up call,

0:27:510:27:53

the industry possibly could have been naive

0:27:530:27:55

to think that most people are honest and trustworthy

0:27:550:27:58

in every walk of life, but I think it did shock everybody,

0:27:580:28:02

that someone would have the pure brass and greed.

0:28:020:28:05

It's no different from rogue traders in the city.

0:28:050:28:08

You just get greedy, I assume.

0:28:080:28:09

If people aren't prepared to pay extra for free range or organic,

0:28:110:28:15

it is their right to actually be buying what it says on the tin,

0:28:150:28:18

and it's our job to ensure that that actually happens.

0:28:180:28:22

And that's all from this special edition of Fake Britain. Bye-bye.

0:28:240:28:29

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0:28:320:28:36

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