Episode 10 Rip Off Britain


Episode 10

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There's a lot we don't know about the food on our plate,

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and the shops and the labels don't always tell you the whole story.

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Sometimes when you have these offers on in the supermarket, you think

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you're getting a good deal, but if you're actually throwing it away,

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it's not a good deal.

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Whether you're staying in or going out,

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you've told us you can feel ripped off by the promises made for what

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you eat and what you pay for it.

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What really winds me up I suppose is the price of so-called healthy food

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and compared with the unhealthy stuff.

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The unhealthy stuff seems to be so much cheaper.

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From claims that don't stack up to the secrets behind the packaging,

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we'll uncover the truth about Britain's food so you can be sure

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you're getting what you expect at the right price.

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Your food, your money.

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This is Rip-Off Britain.

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Hello and welcome to Rip-Off Britain, where today,

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we're going to be unpicking some of the key factors

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that influence which foods end up on our

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plates, whether that's to do with its price,

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its availability or even the latest trends because, you know,

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some foods do go in and out of fashion, just like anything else.

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Well, one story that brought into very sharp focus a combination of

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several of those factors was the sudden shortage of fresh veg that

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affected all of us, if you remember, at the start of 2017.

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Now, you may recall that some prices rocketed and some supermarkets even

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rationed how much broccoli you could buy.

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We'll be exploring the wider implications of that

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and as we'll see,

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while some foods have become such staples that we expect to be able

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to get hold of them all the year round,

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there are others that have gone out of fashion, so much so,

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that they're in danger of becoming extinct.

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So, let's find out if your favourite is on that danger list.

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Coming up, why a perfect storm of bad weather on the continent led to

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soaring prices for our veg.

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How can we stop the same thing happening again?

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A box of courgettes that would be somewhere within the region

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-of £5 to £7 went up to £24.

-What?!

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And we enter the world of the silver screen to catch up with what

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cinemas now charge for those must-have snacks,

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and it seems that the prices at some of the multiplexes are leaving

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you very perplexed indeed.

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When I go to the cinema, the price of the food is almost the same

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as the ticket price and I was really shocked by the price of it.

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I think it was £8 for the nachos.

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I guess we've all become so very used to being able to get hold of

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whatever fresh produce we want at any time of the year

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that it all came as a bit of a shock in early 2017

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to find that we were suddenly hit by a vegetable shortage,

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which led to empty supermarket shelves,

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rocketing prices and even some stores limiting what you could buy.

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With several of our shopping basket staples affected,

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it really did bring home to us what a very finely balanced business the

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whole supply of foods can be,

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especially when we've come to take them for granted.

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So, with the immediate crisis now over,

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I've been looking into what lessons this might have for the future and

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whether or not there really is anything we can do

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to avoid something similar ever happening again.

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Hi, Sid.

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Chris.

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Have you got anything else to offer in peppers other than that little

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bit of red there?

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It's 4:30am and while most of us will still be asleep at

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that hour, Mike Noone is already up and at 'em in this fruit and veg

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market in Greater Manchester.

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Yeah.

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I tell you what,

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-Five red.

-Five red.

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And two or three yellow, please.

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He's at the helm of a fruit and veg supply business that's just one cog in

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the huge machine that brings a wealth of products to our tables.

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It's a nice variety this, Osprey. I quite like them.

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It's places like this across the UK that determine the price

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we end up paying for our produce when we go to the shops and the key

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factor is how much buyers like Mike have to pay for it first.

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Right, OK. Well, book us these then, Andy, please.

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If he has to pay more, then so will whoever is buying from him.

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And while that seems like simple economics,

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for a food retailer to be competitive, its prices must remain low,

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and that's a huge challenge,

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especially when dealing with fresh products exposed to the elements.

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We decide how to buy generally based on the volume of product that's in the market.

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That will decide how much the price is.

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So it's down to the relationships that we've got with the traders here to negotiate a price.

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Anything in red pepper, please?

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If it's expensive, we might only buy ten, just to have them in the shelf.

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If it's cheap, if it's abundant, we might buy 100.

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It all depends on how much it is and that's the negotiation.

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That's the whole point of coming to market.

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Now, Mike supplies chefs and restaurants who are generally able to be

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flexible with their menus if there are sudden changes to what produce is available,

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but that's not so easy for supermarkets, with modern consumers

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wanting consistency in what we buy and what we pay for it.

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Every day our supermarket shelves are stacked full of fresh fruit and vegetables,

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quite a few of them having come from other parts of the world.

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You know, long gone are the days when we could only buy seasonal fruit and veg.

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These days, we can buy our favourite fruits,

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our favourite vegetables whenever we want,

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and that would go a long way to explaining why in 2015, for instance,

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the imports of fresh produce into the UK hit six million tonnes.

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With customers demanding a year-round supply of the fruits we enjoy,

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the pressure is on to keep prices low, and to accommodate both those factors

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there are times of the year when the amount that we import goes right up.

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We rely massively on imported produce,

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certainly through the winter months.

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If we didn't have imports from Spain and Europe and Thailand and Asia and

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all around the world,

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we'd be eating cabbage and carrots and leeks throughout the winter months,

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much like your grandparents did.

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But now we've got much more exotic tastes,

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so it comes from all over the world.

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Of course, it changes and the seasons change.

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In the summer months, we buy our cos lettuce from a farm that's 15 miles away.

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Takes all the transport costs out of it,

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but if you want cos lettuce in the winter months,

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it has to come from Spain.

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Why that country? Well, obviously it's got a warmer climate,

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which means that it's got a much longer growing season than we have.

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But that explains why in the winter 80% of the vegetables you buy are

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going to have come from Spain.

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But, you know, we should never take that for granted, because every now and again

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we get a sharp reminder that, as any good gardener will tell you,

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it only takes a tiny glitch in the weather to ensure that growing produce

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of any kind is going to become a very precarious business indeed.

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Which is exactly what happened in January 2017 when freak weather in Spain

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caused a momentous storm in the supply chain.

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The south-east of the country was hit by record levels of rain and even some snow.

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Murcia, an area that supplies by far the bulk of our fresh produce during

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the winter months, had 70% of its growing fields wiped out,

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with crops of courgettes,

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spinach and iceberg lettuce amongst the hardest hit.

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Other parts of southern Europe were also affected,

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creating major shortages right across the continent.

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And while all that happened thousands of miles away,

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the effects were soon being felt much closer to home.

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Any veg that did make it to the UK was in such short supply that it ran

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out very quickly, leading to empty shelves in our supermarkets.

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And back in Manchester,

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businesses like Noone and Sons were badly affected too.

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In all the 40 years that I've been coming to market,

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this is without doubt the worst six or eight weeks that we've ever had.

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The weather has decimated the products coming out of Spain

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and caused massive shortages.

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Maggie is Mike's wife and is in charge of marketing at the company.

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She says the produce that did get through

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came at a massively inflated cost.

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What did that do to the price of what you were buying?

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Well, it sent the price absolutely through the roof.

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I mean, the guys, the buyers that we have and my husband said that they'd

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never seen anything like it in the last 40 years.

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So, to give you an example,

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a box of courgettes that normally to us would be somewhere within the

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-region of £5 to £7 went up to £24...

-What?!

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..in a matter of days.

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-That's huge!

-Yeah, so it just didn't gradually increase,

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it just went right up to £24, simply because they weren't available.

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They couldn't get hold of them,

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but the demand in this day and age never goes down.

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So, it was just supply and demand.

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If it's not there, the price goes up simply because it's so scarce.

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But one interesting aspect of all of this was the way the supermarkets

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reacted, with some imposing limits on the amount of veg that shoppers could buy.

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Britain's vegetable shortage is continuing, with some supermarkets

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rationing the sale of produce.

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Well, Tesco and Morrisons are both limiting customers to three iceberg

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lettuces and Morrisons are reported to be preventing shoppers from

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buying more than three heads of broccoli.

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Morrisons has told us that it did that to stop businesses bulk buying the produce,

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leaving less for families.

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But with salads in short supply,

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some wholesalers and retailers took the costly decision to import it from the US.

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So, why do you think if there was product around,

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even though it was going to be a bit more expensive,

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why do you think so many supermarkets just left their shelves empty?

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Partly because they couldn't get it.

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So, what the supermarkets will do is contract a price.

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So, for a season, you know,

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they will be contracting two seasons ahead now for this time next year or

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whatever and they definitely hold the suppliers to a price.

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So, if the suppliers are going to sell it to anybody,

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it wouldn't be the supermarket, because they can get a premium price for it elsewhere.

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So, at the height of the shortage,

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eating our greens fast became an expensive habit.

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At one London market, the cost of broccoli shot up by 400%

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from £1 per kilogram to £5 per kilogram.

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But now the dust has settled,

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we wanted to find out if shoppers would still be prepared to pay some of

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the top prices that at the time we were asked to pay for certain veg.

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So, that's £1.70 for a lettuce,

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£1.90 for just one courgette and three quid for a bag of spinach.

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I wouldn't pay £1.90 for that, no.

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I'd pay £1.90 for a pack of these, but not, not,

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not just £1.90 for this by itself.

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If this spinach was going for £3 a bag...

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..I think I'd just probably choose another vegetable and just leave the spinach.

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There's no way I'd pay £1.70.

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No, oh, no.

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I would never pay that.

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The most I would pay for this is 90p.

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So, judging by the shoppers we spoke to, it seems there is a limit on what

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we're prepared to pay for our veg.

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But the effects of all of this could still have an impact on our pockets

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for some time, because while Spanish crops are now recovering and supplies

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of lettuce, tomato and courgettes have returned to their usual levels,

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it's expected that over the next few months we'll have to fork out 20%

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more for that kitchen cupboard staple olive oil,

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due to the combination of a poor olive harvest and weak pound.

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And the veg shortage is reckoned to have cost shops

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around £8 million in lost sales in just one month.

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There is, of course, a way we could avoid what happens in fields so far

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from our shores affecting what we eat, and that's to become completely self-sufficient.

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But food historian Sam Bilton says the last time we came

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anywhere near that was a century ago in World War I.

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By 1917, something like one in four of our merchant ships were being

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destroyed by the German Navy.

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So, something like nine million acres of land was turned into arable

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land to grow crops like potato and wheat,

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which was the biggest harvest we'd ever seen in this country at that point.

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In terms of self-sufficiency for the future, it seems unlikely.

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I would imagine that the arable land

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that was available during the First World War is now no longer available

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for that purpose.

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It's unlikely we would get to a point where we are growing

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enough wheat and potatoes to feed this country.

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But if that sounds like we're destined to remain reliant

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on importing our winter fruit and veg,

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there are suppliers closer to home determined to find a solution to that,

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and thanks to new innovations in farming,

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some UK farmers are starting to find ways of producing affordable British

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produce all the year round.

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In the UK, we import 80% of our tomatoes,

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a figure which rises even higher in the winter months.

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But Rick Holt's company in the Vale of Evesham, Worcestershire,

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which has been producing British tomatoes for over three decades,

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now does it in winter too,

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by using technology that combats the cold and lack of sunshine during the winter months.

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Well, to grow tomatoes in the winter you have to supply light, because in

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January and February,

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there's nothing like enough light from outside.

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To begin with people used sodium lamps,

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which are like streetlights and we've got those in the roof,

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but in recent years they found that LEDs are better because they're more

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efficient and they're just giving the colours that the plants want.

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Rick's hi-tech greenhouses cover 22 acres.

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That's the equivalent of over ten football pitches.

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It supplies tomatoes to several of the big stores.

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We've been growing under lights for about three years.

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We've put them in to see how it went and it seems to be going quite well.

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It means that we can grow for 12 months of the year,

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which from our point of view is a good thing, supplying to supermarkets.

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But although he produces over 15 tonnes of tomatoes every week,

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that is still only 0.1% of the 500,000 tonnes that we consume every year,

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and all of those lights do have a cost.

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The problem is they can in some cases grow it much cheaper abroad,

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which means that they can supply into this country cheaper,

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which makes it difficult for our growers to make a profit.

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So, we are up against imports and the prices that they come in.

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So, unless we're prepared to pay a bit more for home-grown veg or turn back

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the clock on our exotic tastes and eat seasonally again,

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it seems for now we remain at the mercy of the rain in Spain.

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We're so used now to stuff from all over the world coming at any time.

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So, we get strawberries in the winter,

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we get all this lovely fruit and veg,

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regardless of what used to be a kind of a seasonal rotation.

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-Do you think we've been a bit spoiled by expecting that?

-I do, yeah.

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I absolutely do and I think the general public,

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people on the street,

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because they see it all the time in the supermarkets, never question,

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never even question where it comes from.

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So, although this has been a total disaster, you know,

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we're really pleased that it's let people have a window

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into what exactly goes on with growing things.

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Still to come on Rip-Off Britain...

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From food trends to marketing hype and pricing.

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We take a closer look at why some of our much loved everyday foods

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like marmalades are actually in decline and we ask - can anything be

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done to save them from extinction?

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It doesn't surprise me that young people don't like it.

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There's so much you can do with it and I think that's kind of been

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forgotten and we need to bring it back in a way.

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Now, here's a familiar scenario of family life.

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You've planned a night out at the cinema for the whole family.

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The tickets are booked and you're already reeling at the fact

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that you've had to shell out up to £50

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for less than two hours of fun,

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but the financial pain doesn't end there.

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Once you arrive at the cinema,

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everyone makes a beeline for the drinks and snacks and bang goes even more of your money.

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Easily up to £30 if everyone fancies popcorn and a drink.

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Well, we tend to grit our teeth and chalk it all up as part of the whole

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cinema experience, don't we?

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But we've heard that plenty of you think it's time that the big chains

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took another long look at their prices.

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Ever since food vendors were introduced to movie theatres back in the 1930s,

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snacks have been as synonymous with the cinema as Fred was with Ginger,

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and for many of us a trip to the pictures is only complete

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once we're fully armed with our favourite munchies.

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When I go to the cinema I've got to have popcorn, Coke, crisps.

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-An 'ot dog.

-An 'ot dog, yeah.

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I have a pick'n'mix, I think most people do,

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or an ice cream and a Coca-Cola.

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But while those treats and nibbles may be part of the big-screen

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experience, too often they can come at a blockbusting price.

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The price of food in cinemas

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is quite expensive.

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Every year or so I've noticed it goes up 50p, £1.

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Since I was a kid, it's gotten a lot more expensive.

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Now, we regularly hear from people objecting to the cost of cinema snacks,

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and while, of course, no one's forcing you to buy them from the cinema itself,

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it's clear that if that's what you choose to do,

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some of the prices charged have become particularly hard to swallow.

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One recent social media post went viral and got over 13,000 likes,

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when a frustrated customer expressed his dismay at how much his trip to

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the cinema ended up costing,

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with particular irritation reserved for this rather uninspiring tray of nachos.

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Someone else who's cheesed off with the cost is Teri Peters from Bedford.

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She wrote to us saying her visits to the cinema have become less and less

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frequent due to rising prices, so, reluctantly,

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she and her friend June now do most of their movie watching in their own homes.

0:19:170:19:22

When I go to the cinema,

0:19:230:19:25

the price of the food is almost the same as the ticket price.

0:19:250:19:30

I took my granddaughter to the cinema, and I had a ticket, she had a ticket.

0:19:300:19:35

She had some nachos and I had that and we had a Coke and

0:19:350:19:39

it came out at about £30.

0:19:390:19:42

I think it was £8 for the nachos, a little tray,

0:19:420:19:46

and I was really shocked by the price of it.

0:19:460:19:49

And June says the last time she treated her three grandchildren,

0:19:510:19:54

things got particularly pricey.

0:19:540:19:56

I bought a bag of pick'n'mix.

0:19:580:20:01

When they weighed the sweets, it was £12,

0:20:010:20:05

and I couldn't say to them "Put them back, cos I'm not paying that,"

0:20:050:20:08

so I bought them,

0:20:080:20:10

but it was...far more expensive than

0:20:100:20:15

buying it in a supermarket.

0:20:150:20:18

That was the first thing that shocked me, but it got worse.

0:20:180:20:22

My oldest grandson wanted a hot dog and a drink,

0:20:220:20:26

and it was £7.50.

0:20:260:20:27

For many, it's popcorn that's the cinema essential,

0:20:310:20:34

so it's perhaps no wonder that a 2014 survey found that was the item

0:20:340:20:39

British moviegoers considered to be the absolute worst value for money.

0:20:390:20:42

To see if that's backed up by the facts,

0:20:450:20:47

we wanted to find out exactly how much those puffed kernels typically cost.

0:20:470:20:51

But getting the country's best-known cinema chains,

0:20:510:20:54

Vue, Odeon and Cineworld,

0:20:540:20:57

to part with any information about their product prices wasn't an easy task.

0:20:570:21:01

When we contacted them directly,

0:21:010:21:02

they wouldn't tell us how much they charge,

0:21:020:21:05

but, undeterred, we visited cinemas right across the UK to gather our own intel,

0:21:050:21:10

and we soon found some rather striking regional variations in what

0:21:100:21:15

you'd pay for a large popcorn.

0:21:150:21:17

The most expensive we found, perhaps unsurprisingly, was in London,

0:21:170:21:21

where we'd have paid a whopping £6.30 at a branch of Vue,

0:21:210:21:25

and across the country, once we averaged out the prices,

0:21:250:21:29

it was Vue that came out the most expensive,

0:21:290:21:32

with a large popcorn typically setting you back £5.54.

0:21:320:21:37

It was Cineworld that came out the cheapest,

0:21:370:21:39

with an average price of £5.12,

0:21:390:21:42

and as its large bag was also bigger than its rivals' offerings,

0:21:420:21:46

pound for pound, Cineworld definitely came out

0:21:460:21:49

best value for money.

0:21:490:21:50

Or perhaps that should be "least worst" value for money,

0:21:510:21:54

because at any of these cinemas,

0:21:540:21:57

what you're getting is still significantly more expensive than you'd pay

0:21:570:22:01

for popcorn in a store.

0:22:010:22:02

Well, I've just been to the local supermarket and bought these.

0:22:030:22:06

They cost £1 each, but if I was to do...

0:22:060:22:10

..this and...

0:22:110:22:12

..this...

0:22:140:22:15

..I could charge you £5.

0:22:160:22:20

That's a mark-up of 150%.

0:22:200:22:22

Mmm, tastes expensive!

0:22:260:22:27

We also took a look at what the big chains charge for their nachos and

0:22:290:22:33

they were an even worse deal.

0:22:330:22:35

The average price we found across the country for this savoury snack,

0:22:350:22:39

including dip and toppings, was £5.58.

0:22:390:22:43

But a bag of straight nachos from your local supermarket could set you

0:22:430:22:47

back as little as 46p.

0:22:470:22:49

So, even once you've taken into account the cost of the cheese

0:22:510:22:53

and the extras and warming everything up,

0:22:530:22:56

the cinemas are likely to be walking away with a pretty profit.

0:22:560:23:00

And while, of course, they're in the business of making money,

0:23:000:23:02

and most of us would expect to pay more at the cinema than we would at the supermarket,

0:23:020:23:07

how much more is it justifiable for them to charge?

0:23:070:23:10

We asked some shoppers in Gloucester what they thought would be a

0:23:120:23:15

reasonable price for these two snacks.

0:23:150:23:17

What would you think it's fair to pay for something like these two?

0:23:170:23:20

About £3 for that.

0:23:200:23:24

-And what about...?

-I guess cos it comes with dips,

0:23:240:23:26

probably about four or five for nachos.

0:23:260:23:28

£3 for that.

0:23:280:23:30

-And what about that?

-Well, that's not a lot...

0:23:300:23:33

£2.50.

0:23:330:23:34

A couple of pounds each, I suppose.

0:23:340:23:36

-A couple of pounds each?

-That's what I would pay, yeah.

0:23:360:23:38

Would it surprise you to know that actually what you'd pay would be

0:23:380:23:41

£5.20 and £5.50?

0:23:410:23:45

£5.50 for that?

0:23:450:23:47

Yeah, what you think of that?

0:23:470:23:49

That's too much. Way too much.

0:23:490:23:51

I mean, that won't last you the whole movie.

0:23:510:23:54

It's a lot of money, definitely.

0:23:540:23:55

I think that's why don't always have it every time I go,

0:23:550:23:58

cos it's a bit overpriced.

0:23:580:23:59

And it's not just consumers wondering if the big chains might be pushing

0:24:020:24:05

their prices to the limit.

0:24:050:24:07

Film critic James Luxford knows the industry inside out,

0:24:070:24:11

so he knows how the cinemas will justify their food and drink prices.

0:24:110:24:15

The reason cinemas charge so much for food and drink is often because they

0:24:170:24:21

have similar overheads to, say, a restaurant or a bar,

0:24:210:24:24

but also the price you pay at the box office for your cinema ticket

0:24:240:24:29

is not all going to the cinema.

0:24:290:24:31

Often 50% will go to the film studio, the people making the film,

0:24:310:24:36

and 50% to the cinema, with the bigger movies,

0:24:360:24:40

the big summer blockbusters that everyone wants to see,

0:24:400:24:42

sometimes the cinema will get 25%, sometimes even less.

0:24:420:24:46

So, they have to make their profit from another means.

0:24:460:24:49

It's not very good for the consumer, but there is a reason for it.

0:24:490:24:53

But with chains such as Cineworld recording pre-tax profits of almost

0:24:560:25:00

£100 million,

0:25:000:25:02

James can see why many find those huge margins hard to stomach.

0:25:020:25:05

I don't think it's fair at all.

0:25:070:25:09

It's a bit of a vicious circle,

0:25:090:25:11

in terms of, the cinema needs to make money and we all want the cinema

0:25:110:25:15

experience to remain as it is,

0:25:150:25:17

but it does seem that cinemagoers are being squeezed

0:25:170:25:21

from the moment they walk in through the door to the moment

0:25:210:25:24

the credits start rolling.

0:25:240:25:26

And there are even cinema insiders who'd agree with that.

0:25:270:25:29

People like Mark Roberts, former manager at Premiere Cinema,

0:25:310:25:35

an independent picture house in Romford.

0:25:350:25:38

Like the big chains, the cinema relies heavily on revenue from the kiosk,

0:25:380:25:42

but they don't like to push the prices too high.

0:25:420:25:45

Instead, they offer smaller portions at lower prices than the multiplexes

0:25:450:25:50

so their customers won't end up spending too much and they can still make a profit.

0:25:500:25:54

I think there's a certain degree of what's actually acceptable to charge your customers.

0:25:550:26:00

The prices that we charge here,

0:26:000:26:01

I think they're fair for us and I think it's enough profit that we can

0:26:010:26:04

cope and we can survive.

0:26:040:26:06

Maybe with the larger chains,

0:26:070:26:08

I think it comes down to a certain amount of greed.

0:26:080:26:11

Once customers are actually in the cinema it's almost like a captive audience,

0:26:110:26:14

especially if you've got screaming children asking for popcorn, asking for drinks,

0:26:140:26:18

and their parents will have to pay it because that's all that's on offer.

0:26:180:26:22

Well, when we contacted Vue,

0:26:230:26:25

Cineworld and Odeon to ask about their food and drink pricing,

0:26:250:26:29

they all chose not to comment.

0:26:290:26:31

But the UK Cinema Association, which represents the industry,

0:26:330:26:37

told us that just like other leisure facilities,

0:26:370:26:39

such as theatres and football grounds,

0:26:390:26:42

the prices at cinemas reflect a number of different factors and costs,

0:26:420:26:46

and are openly advertised,

0:26:460:26:48

with customers free to choose whether or not they buy.

0:26:480:26:51

The Association also pointed out that most cinemas offer value discounts

0:26:520:26:56

on combo deals, which sometimes include the cost of the cinema ticket too.

0:26:560:27:01

So, the headline price of a drink or snack is often not the one paid by most customers.

0:27:010:27:07

Well, sad to say, the rising cost of a trip to the cinema shows no sign

0:27:110:27:15

of slowing down, but we've got some good tips for you

0:27:150:27:17

that might help you save a few pennies

0:27:170:27:20

next time you go to the movies.

0:27:200:27:21

First, do check for those combo deals that the industry body recommends,

0:27:230:27:27

so if you're buying more than one thing,

0:27:270:27:29

you might be able to save at least a few pennies.

0:27:290:27:32

And another option, of course, is to take in your own snacks, which Vue,

0:27:330:27:37

Odeon and Cineworld are happy for you to do,

0:27:370:27:39

providing the food's not hot and the drink isn't alcoholic.

0:27:390:27:42

In fact, the same goes for seven out of the top ten chains.

0:27:440:27:47

Only Everyman, Curzon and Merlin

0:27:470:27:50

won't allow food brought in from outside the cinema.

0:27:500:27:53

For Teri, though, buying snacks at the cinema used to be part of the fun,

0:27:530:27:57

so unless the prices come down,

0:27:570:28:00

the local multiplex isn't a place she's likely to be visiting any time soon.

0:28:000:28:05

If the snacks were less, I think more people would go to the cinema,

0:28:050:28:10

because you're talking doubling up the price.

0:28:100:28:14

And, um...

0:28:150:28:17

For people on low incomes, on pensions, it's a lot of money.

0:28:170:28:22

Up next, three foods with one thing in common - Ulster corned beef,

0:28:260:28:29

Jersey black butter and Bath chaps.

0:28:290:28:32

Now, it might sound like I've been reading the menu from some smart new

0:28:320:28:36

restaurant, but in fact I've been reading up on foods that used to be

0:28:360:28:39

commonplace around the UK.

0:28:390:28:41

Like anything else, of course,

0:28:410:28:43

foods go in and out of fashion and while there are some that remain

0:28:430:28:46

consistently well loved,

0:28:460:28:48

over the years, others have gone through waves of popularity.

0:28:480:28:51

So, we wanted to tap into what makes certain foods stay one step ahead of

0:28:510:28:55

the competition, and look into why other long-established favourites

0:28:550:28:59

could well be heading for extinction.

0:28:590:29:01

It's the annual Marmalade Festival in Penrith in Cumbria.

0:29:040:29:08

Artisan marmalade makers are here to show off their creations,

0:29:080:29:11

and the rest of us are welcome to join in everything from Marmalade

0:29:110:29:15

Question Time, to marmalade cookery classes and, best of all,

0:29:150:29:20

a marmalade tasting competition.

0:29:200:29:22

It's a celebration of the age-old orange spread,

0:29:220:29:25

organised by Jane Hasell-McCosh.

0:29:250:29:28

My awards and festival started 12 years ago now,

0:29:280:29:31

with 60 pots from friends and neighbours,

0:29:310:29:34

and I somehow managed to persuade them to put them in for a competition.

0:29:340:29:38

But it's grown from strength to strength.

0:29:380:29:41

Each year we think, "Well, perhaps if it's not going to be so good, we'll give up."

0:29:410:29:45

But each year, even more pots come in.

0:29:450:29:47

Judging the competition are marmalade supremos Eileen and Doreen.

0:29:480:29:52

They know exactly what they think makes the perfect pot.

0:29:520:29:56

The perfect marmalade needs to be beautifully clear, well-cooked peel,

0:29:570:30:02

-which is quite a fault that most of them have.

-Yes.

0:30:020:30:06

And the consistency, it has to be nice jelly-like consistency,

0:30:060:30:12

rather than syrupy.

0:30:120:30:14

It makes an awful difference.

0:30:140:30:16

Fellow marmalade enthusiast Rose simply can't get enough of it.

0:30:180:30:22

I think marmalade's one of the best things ever,

0:30:230:30:25

I was brought up with it and I love it on toast,

0:30:250:30:27

but I think it's also very versatile, there's so much you can do with it,

0:30:270:30:30

and I think that's kind of been forgotten, and we need to bring it back, in a way.

0:30:300:30:33

From the crowds here today,

0:30:350:30:37

you'd never know that in actual fact despite being a breakfast favourite

0:30:370:30:40

for hundreds of years,

0:30:400:30:42

marmalade sales have declined in recent years by 4.7%,

0:30:420:30:46

and there doesn't seem to be a new generation of fans waiting in the wings.

0:30:460:30:50

Just 10% of marmalade is sold to households with children.

0:30:500:30:53

It doesn't surprise me that young people don't like it,

0:30:550:30:57

but I think there's a lot we can do to make sure that they realise that

0:30:570:31:00

it's very versatile and there's actually so much you can do,

0:31:000:31:03

whether it's cooking with it or you could put it in a cocktail,

0:31:030:31:05

it doesn't just have to be on your toast.

0:31:050:31:08

But marmalade isn't the only food

0:31:080:31:10

once considered a staple of the British diet

0:31:100:31:13

to have taken a nosedive in sales.

0:31:130:31:15

Our food-buying habits are constantly changing,

0:31:150:31:17

so also now also going out of fashion is white bread.

0:31:170:31:22

Since 1974, its sales have fallen by 75%,

0:31:220:31:27

and traditional tea and tinned foods are also reportedly in decline.

0:31:270:31:32

Adam Leyland from the trade magazine The Grocer has a few clues

0:31:320:31:35

as to what impacts food trends.

0:31:350:31:38

So, here we have the tin.

0:31:400:31:41

This is a technology that's been around for 200 years.

0:31:410:31:46

It's a technology that is old-fashioned,

0:31:460:31:49

and new technologies have replaced it.

0:31:490:31:51

Most particularly, we like our food fresh and chilled,

0:31:510:31:55

and over the last 40 years,

0:31:550:31:57

an incredible chilled supply chain has been

0:31:570:31:59

developed that means we can now have our food fresh.

0:31:590:32:04

If supermarkets' ability to sell fresher food plays some part

0:32:040:32:07

in changing what we eat, another factor some would say

0:32:070:32:10

is our more sophisticated tastes.

0:32:100:32:13

So, if you take wrapped bread, that technology's been around for 90 years,

0:32:140:32:18

and at the time it was a miracle,

0:32:180:32:20

hence the phrase "the best thing since sliced bread".

0:32:200:32:23

But, our tastes are changing, so we want more premium loaves,

0:32:230:32:27

we want gluten-free loaves, because there's concern about bloating

0:32:270:32:32

associated with bread and we want no carbs at all,

0:32:320:32:35

that's another key diet-based trend.

0:32:350:32:37

So, as tastes and technologies change,

0:32:380:32:41

it's the job of manufacturers and retailers to adapt and evolve their

0:32:410:32:44

products to keep us buying,

0:32:440:32:46

and one section of the market that's done exactly that is frozen food,

0:32:460:32:50

which seems to have gone all upmarket.

0:32:500:32:52

In the last year or two,

0:32:540:32:56

there's been big investment in selling up the power of frozen.

0:32:560:33:00

So, they've said, "Let's get frozen food, but let's make it frozen and really fine quality,"

0:33:000:33:07

and in doing so, they've ticked a trend and achieved real uplift in sales,

0:33:070:33:11

for the first time in years.

0:33:110:33:13

So, reinvention and rebranding is the name of the game in the food

0:33:140:33:18

industry, in order to keep old trusty products

0:33:180:33:21

from being consigned to the culinary history books.

0:33:210:33:24

But when it comes to marmalade,

0:33:240:33:26

there's no doubt that many young people would much rather spread other

0:33:260:33:29

products such as peanut butter and chocolate spread on their toast

0:33:290:33:33

than something that contains fruit.

0:33:330:33:35

In fact, while marmalade sales dwindle,

0:33:350:33:38

those of chocolate spread Nutella have continued to rise.

0:33:380:33:42

It's now the UK's top spread, with sales worth over £50 million.

0:33:420:33:47

Now, one person who goes nuts for the stuff is Olympic canoer Rebeka Simon.

0:33:480:33:53

I've liked chocolate spread ever since I can remember.

0:33:530:33:56

Whenever we went on summer holidays with my grandparents,

0:33:580:34:01

I remember that we were always allowed a teaspoon of chocolate spread a day with my brother.

0:34:010:34:06

My top three ways would be on a crepe,

0:34:060:34:10

but totally filled with chocolate spread.

0:34:100:34:14

Another favourite is chocolate spread-filled doughnuts, but again,

0:34:140:34:18

like, really full.

0:34:180:34:20

But my absolute favourite out of these is eating it with a spoon

0:34:200:34:25

out of the jar.

0:34:250:34:26

So, why's chocolate hitting the mark over the go-to spread of the past?

0:34:280:34:33

I've tried marmalade once, thinking that it was going to be really,

0:34:330:34:37

really sweet and then it was a very disappointing first taste.

0:34:370:34:42

One big plus for marmalade is the price.

0:34:430:34:45

We found an own-brand marmalade for just 40p a pot -

0:34:450:34:49

that's four times cheaper than the cheapest chocolate spread.

0:34:490:34:52

But, of course, it's been proven that our tastes do change.

0:34:530:34:57

A recent survey suggests that nearly three-quarters of us now have a much

0:34:570:35:01

bigger range of foods in our diet.

0:35:010:35:03

So, as the variety expands,

0:35:040:35:06

the harder products have to work to stay on our shopping list.

0:35:060:35:10

Some products, of course, go away.

0:35:100:35:12

But it's amazing how many have a sticking power,

0:35:130:35:16

but as they get less popular,

0:35:160:35:19

they're taken less seriously by the supermarkets,

0:35:190:35:21

the space they're given declines and it takes a great deal of energy and

0:35:210:35:25

money and innovation, frankly, to revive an ailing brand.

0:35:250:35:31

So, you think of some of the classics of the last few years -

0:35:310:35:34

for example, a rejuvenation of the Smash instant potato.

0:35:340:35:39

That's a product that's been in decline for years,

0:35:390:35:42

it was considered unhealthy,

0:35:420:35:44

but there's potential evidence for it coming back.

0:35:440:35:47

So, in an attempt to keep marmalade on-trend,

0:35:490:35:51

we're going to do an experiment, and to do it we need someone who really,

0:35:510:35:55

really loves the stuff.

0:35:550:35:56

Meet 29-year-old Ollie Gregory from London.

0:35:570:36:00

The thing I really like about marmalade is that bittersweet taste.

0:36:010:36:06

Compared to other things, it's not too sweet, it's not too sickly,

0:36:060:36:10

and that kind of citrusy tanginess is something I really enjoy.

0:36:100:36:16

I like particularly the ones with the big fruit pieces in.

0:36:160:36:20

I can't stand peanut butter, I think it's the devil's food.

0:36:200:36:23

Marmalade's drop in fortunes may in part be down to what's perceived by

0:36:230:36:27

some as an apparent under-investment in its branding.

0:36:270:36:31

But if that means the image of marmalade has perhaps gone a little past

0:36:310:36:34

its sell by date, well, perhaps we can help.

0:36:340:36:38

Ollie has agreed to help promote our new marmalade,

0:36:380:36:41

but first we asked a branding agency to come up with an original concept

0:36:410:36:46

that could reignite the public's passion for the citrus spread.

0:36:460:36:49

It's been a fantastic, kind of, dream brief for us,

0:36:510:36:53

to rethink and re-envisage an entire product, really,

0:36:530:36:58

a sector or a range like marmalade.

0:36:580:37:02

So, to be able to do that has been fantastic for us,

0:37:020:37:05

and we've thrown ourselves into the research of it,

0:37:050:37:07

seeing what all the current brands are doing,

0:37:070:37:09

and they are super-targeted at the older demographic, really.

0:37:090:37:14

So, as this team got to work,

0:37:160:37:18

they ditched the old and brought in bold writing,

0:37:180:37:21

fun wording and branding that's actually dropped the word marmalade altogether.

0:37:210:37:26

So, we felt that words like zest and zing,

0:37:260:37:28

they were short and snappy and they felt like they might appeal to a

0:37:280:37:31

younger market, and the kind of thing that'd jump off the shelf if it

0:37:310:37:35

was twinned with the right design.

0:37:350:37:37

It would just stand a mile apart from that current traditional bakery

0:37:370:37:42

kitchen feel that we're getting.

0:37:420:37:44

Rebranding has worked for other food and drink.

0:37:450:37:48

By adopting a healthier image,

0:37:480:37:50

the sales of popcorn rose 169% from 2010-2015,

0:37:500:37:55

And real ale has seen a recent resurgence,

0:37:570:38:00

with 31 million pints being drunk in 2015 alone.

0:38:000:38:04

So, we think our concept changes the perception of marmalade,

0:38:060:38:10

because it's inviting you to use it in different ways.

0:38:100:38:13

It's not just something used at breakfast on your toast, you know.

0:38:130:38:17

The packaging literally says, "A zesty spread for much more than bread".

0:38:170:38:21

It's short, it's snappy,

0:38:210:38:23

and we feel it's something someone may pick up when they might not

0:38:230:38:26

necessarily pick up marmalade.

0:38:260:38:28

And then we're going to use, "It's a splodgy, juicy orange spread.

0:38:280:38:32

"Don't just put it on your bread. How about using it in your cakes?"

0:38:320:38:35

So, back in London, we asked superfan Ollie what he thinks of the new design.

0:38:360:38:40

It reads, "Squidgy, Squishy, Splodgy Spread".

0:38:420:38:47

Er...

0:38:470:38:48

My initial reaction is that...

0:38:480:38:50

I think it... I think it's definitely along the right lines.

0:38:500:38:54

It's quite punchy, it's very bright, it's very energetic.

0:38:540:38:59

It, er...it talks about the kind of flavours a lot more.

0:39:010:39:05

It doesn't actually refer to marmalade, which I find interesting.

0:39:050:39:08

But Ollie's a fan of marmalade already,

0:39:090:39:12

so we asked him to put our new pots to a wider test,

0:39:120:39:15

and where better to gauge public opinion than amidst the huge variety of

0:39:150:39:19

street food stalls at one of London's oldest and best loved markets, Lower Marsh?

0:39:190:39:24

Looking at these jars of marmalade, what do you think about the branding?

0:39:260:39:30

Well, they're all very direct, give a, you know, a very special,

0:39:300:39:34

punchy idea of what to use marmalade for or in.

0:39:340:39:38

I like the boldness of them, like, and just straight to the point,

0:39:400:39:44

like, "smother it on your scones."

0:39:440:39:46

Do you know what, I love that it tells you where you should put it.

0:39:480:39:50

"Use it on porridge." That's got me.

0:39:500:39:52

Not just... You put marmalade on porridge?

0:39:520:39:55

You could put marmalade on anything, cos it's very versatile.

0:39:550:39:57

It would probably look good if you put it on social media.

0:39:570:40:00

Imagine, like, you set it down on the table and then you took a little

0:40:000:40:03

picture of it, with a filter and everything.

0:40:030:40:05

It wouldn't appeal to me at all.

0:40:050:40:07

-Why's that?

-"Dollop some on your porridge."

0:40:070:40:10

I don't need to be told what to do with it, quite frankly.

0:40:100:40:13

I think the black tops are quite sinister.

0:40:130:40:17

That black and then food for me doesn't go together very well.

0:40:170:40:21

Maybe a younger generation will have a different idea, a different idea to that.

0:40:210:40:25

If you saw it in the aisle in the supermarket,

0:40:250:40:27

what you think you would think?

0:40:270:40:29

Well, I wouldn't even look at it.

0:40:290:40:30

If I was in the condiment aisle and I saw one of these, I would actually,

0:40:300:40:34

I would probably take it home.

0:40:340:40:36

A, cos it doesn't say it's marmalade, and I'd think it was a different type of jam.

0:40:360:40:40

This is more fresh, it's new,

0:40:400:40:43

and, you know, it's human nature to like things that are new and current.

0:40:430:40:47

So, I would definitely, I'd definitely give it a go.

0:40:470:40:50

So, it seems it's job done.

0:40:500:40:53

This entirely unscientific test has gone at least some way to show that

0:40:530:40:56

when it comes to food,

0:40:560:40:58

all it takes to turn someone's head and hopefully their taste buds,

0:40:580:41:01

is a bit of clever packaging.

0:41:010:41:03

I think marmalade's always going to be with us.

0:41:030:41:05

If you think about a lot of food trends, things go in cycles.

0:41:060:41:09

So, 20 years ago, 10 years ago, beers, like particularly real ales,

0:41:090:41:15

were very unpopular.

0:41:150:41:17

If you look at it now, you go into a pub,

0:41:170:41:19

there's hundreds of beers on offer.

0:41:190:41:21

So, hopefully marmalade gets picked up and, you know,

0:41:210:41:24

made trendy for the new generation.

0:41:240:41:26

Well, Ollie will be keeping his fingers crossed on that one,

0:41:270:41:30

and with foods regularly going in and out of fashion,

0:41:300:41:33

he may well get his wish, but ultimately, of course,

0:41:330:41:36

the thing that determines the fortunes of our favourite foods

0:41:360:41:39

is whether or not we choose to buy them.

0:41:390:41:42

So, while marketing, cost and other factors play their part, in the end,

0:41:420:41:47

I'm afraid, it's all down to us.

0:41:470:41:49

If you've got a story you'd like us to investigate,

0:41:570:42:00

then get in touch with us via our Facebook page, BBC Rip Off Britain,

0:42:000:42:05

our website, bbc.co.uk/ripoffbritain, or e-mail...

0:42:050:42:10

Or if you want to send us a letter, then our address is...

0:42:140:42:17

Wasn't it fascinating to see how we're exploring new ways of growing

0:42:270:42:31

vegetables here in the UK all the year round?

0:42:310:42:34

You know, I think that veg shortage caught quite a lot of us off guard,

0:42:340:42:38

and it really was a wake-up call to remind us that we cannot take the

0:42:380:42:42

availability of even our staple foods for granted any more.

0:42:420:42:46

It's all a bit precarious,

0:42:460:42:47

but one thing I'm delighted to say that there's no shortage of is more

0:42:470:42:51

Rip-Off Britain programmes coming up over the next few months.

0:42:510:42:54

So, do please keep telling us about the things that you'd like us to investigate,

0:42:540:42:57

and not just about food.

0:42:570:42:59

And just a thought for you -

0:42:590:43:00

we've got more of our holiday series on the way,

0:43:000:43:03

so let us know about your travel disasters and we'll see if your story is

0:43:030:43:07

one we can tackle on a future programme.

0:43:070:43:09

But, for now, that's it for us. Do join us again.

0:43:090:43:11

-Till then, from all of us, goodbye.

-Bye.

-Bye.

0:43:110:43:14

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