The Mountain That Had to Be Painted


The Mountain That Had to Be Painted

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THUNDER RUMBLES

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A century ago, the most famous and controversial artist in Britain

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fled London to paint the wilderness of North Wales.

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His name was Augustus John.

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Bohemian, boozer, wannabe gypsy and a man who gave up doing this

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to do this.

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John was a perfectly good draughtsman and he was wasting his talent on this. Get on and paint!

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John had fallen under the influence of a young genius

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and fellow Welshman James Dickson Innes,

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and unknown painter who loved the mountains so much

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it was literally killing him.

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He was committing slow suicide, people said.

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He knew he was ill, he shouldn't drink, he shouldn't live a life of dissipation, but he did.

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THUNDER BOOMS

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Their canvas was the Arenig Valley in North Wales,

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a sliver of craggy, swirling peaks and haunting plateaux east of Snowdonia.

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Here, despite living the lives of itinerants,

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drinking, fighting and womanising,

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they still found time to paint a series of delirious landscapes.

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In little more than two years, John and Innes would reinvent British landscape painting.

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Wales had never been painted like this before.

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It was an absolute revelation and probably a sensation.

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Even today, a century later,

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their vision draws followers to the mountain to unravel their story.

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A story which would drag British art kicking and screaming

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into the 20th century.

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100 years ago, British painting, more often than not, looked like this

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or this or this.

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It was an idealised vision of the past.

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And the public lapped it up.

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In 1910, however, everything changed.

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The catalyst was an exhibition in London of European art.

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Art which up until then had made little impact here.

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Famously called the Post-Impressionists, four of them,

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Seurat, Van Gogh,

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Gaugin and Cezanne,

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were already dead.

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Yet their work and that of others caused an sensation.

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Some attacked the paintings as childish and crude.

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But others saw in them the beginning of a new age.

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In 1910, the British finally noticed modern painting.

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But was modern painting already here?

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THUNDER RUMBLES

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A few months before the exhibition,

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a young painter had been wandering the remote hills of North Wales.

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Born in 1887,

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James Dickson Innes was the son of an engineer from Llanelli.

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At 19, he'd left Wales to study art in London.

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Now, four years later,

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he'd come home.

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Innes had been wandering round for three or four days,

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staggering round, sleeping out in the open.

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He came off the moor. His long black coat,

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his black hat, his sodden boots.

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Can you imagine the figure that he must have painted

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as he walked down? Sad, desolate, in a terrible state.

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He had been looking for something to paint...

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..and he'd eventually found it.

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It was a mountain.

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And that mountain was Arenig.

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Arenig Fawr, a brooding 500-million-year-old edifice

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on the edge of Snowdonia.

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Below its twin peaks, Innes had stumbled across the most beautiful landscape he'd ever seen.

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A landscape he was now desperate to paint

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in a new and radical way.

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Art historian Eric Rowan has come to see just how radical Innes was.

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He believes that even before the 1910 show in London,

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Innes was producing work which gave the French Post-Impressionists a serious run for their money.

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His proof is one of Innes's first North Wales paintings,

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The Waterfall.

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Extraordinary.

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Extraordinary. I've never seen this before.

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It's quite amazing to actually handle it

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because I've only seen it in black and white illustrations.

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And it's so exciting.

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I think this is a remarkable picture. It was painted by Innes

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in the same year as the Post-Impressionist exhibition in London

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but beforehand, so he hadn't see the exhibition.

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What marks it out as what I would define as Post-Impressionist

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is that you can detect the origins of Impressionism

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but it's left that behind now, it's going on towards abstraction where it's the formal elements,

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the things that make up the picture are more important than representing a scene.

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The clouds are almost as solid as the mountains, almost sculptural, and this is a watercolour.

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I think it's the most marvellous painting and it's true Post-Impressionism.

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When I'm out here, I feel tremendous. I feel free.

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I feel inspired.

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And I need to come here.

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I need this space.

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In the valley below Arenig Fawr,

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artist Keith Bowen is looking for the exact spot

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where Innes created The Waterfall.

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This is the place. This is it.

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This is fantastic.

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Falling water, rocks.

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Everybody responds to it.

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The rocks just down in the front there, there they are, leaning,

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and he would've taken the force of the water against the static of the rocks.

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He wasn't trying to copy the thing photographically,

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but what he did do was get the elements from this and made something else of it.

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To come to the place,

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you get the buzz, you get the thing, the catalyst that sparked Innes off.

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He must have been so excited.

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Brilliant.

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It's a good one.

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At 23, JD Innes had found himself seduced by the beauty of North Wales.

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Now he needed to tell someone.

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150 miles away in London, the man he told

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was fellow artist Augustus John.

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And here he is, the monster. If you are above him...

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Well, no, actually, if you were below him, he's very fierce.

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Very fierce. A sort of bear.

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But when you come above him,

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he's more like a teddy bear.

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John and Innes had met in 1906

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at London's Slade School of Art.

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Innes, the brilliant student who'd barely enrolled before being hired as a teacher.

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Augustus, nine years his elder, the old Slade boy made good.

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Augustus John was one of the most gifted, notorious,

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controversial, famous people in the country, an early celebrity.

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But he was considered beyond the pale, really,

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by conventional people.

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His life in the early 1900s

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was an agitated tale of two cities, Paris and London,

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and two wives, one Ida, his legitimate wife,

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and then his common-law wife, Dorelia.

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That is Ida

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and that is Dorelia in profile looking at her.

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Both of them were to have his children,

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several children. He lost count. And so did they, really.

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John's wife Ida would grown to accept Dorelia and the other lovers.

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"Men must play," she wrote, "and women must weep".

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Look at this drawing of Dorelia.

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It says strong, it says tender,

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it's well observed, it's unsentimental.

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You really have caught her there.

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John's early draughtsmanship was really quite wonderful.

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John Singer Sargent, the American painter,

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said that he hadn't seen anything better than this since the Italian Renaissance.

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John's instinctive drawing skills

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had received universal praise.

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But was art merely a vehicle for technical ability?

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Neither he nor Innes thought so.

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Two years before stumbling across Arenig Fawr,

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Innes had visited Collioure in the South of France.

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It was 1908 and Innes had come to experience

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the work of one of France's most exciting artists, Henri Matisse.

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Matisse was entranced by the Mediterranean's vibrant light and colour.

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Critics called him La Fauve, the wild beast,

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and his style became known as Fauvism.

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Innes immediately began painting Collioure himself.

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Seduced by Fauvism, he ignored the normal rules of painting,

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allowing his landscapes to reflect what he felt, not what he saw.

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Not wanting to miss out, Augustus John also booked a painting holiday in France.

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Like Innes, his French landscapes also stuck two fingers up at the British art establishment.

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He had, it seemed, abandoned his God-given talent for drawing.

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But what would the art critics back home make of it all?

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I got this painting early on

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and I was very keen to get it because it shows Augustus John in France, this is Martigues.

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When paintings such as this were first shown by John, and by Innes, too,

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they were considered just daubs. What were the artists doing?

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They haven't painted it properly. Where was the detail? It didn't come together.

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It was a glimpse of something. It was like the first draft of something. Get on and paint!

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They were thought to be provoking everybody.

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They were thought sometimes to be rather immoral, inartistic, strange.

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And for somebody like John to be wasting his talent,

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he was a perfectly good draughtsman and he was wasting his talent on this.

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The English were very insular.

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They didn't want to know what was happening across the channel.

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John was more brave, more curious.

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And when he came back from France, he was a different sort of painter.

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In 1910, Innes also returned a different man.

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Back home in Wales, he'd found a vision he could call his own.

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But before he could start painting it, he needed a place to stay.

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At the foot of Arenig, he found the Rhyd-y-Fen Hotel.

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Today, it's a farmhouse where Geraint and Sharon Jones live with their two boys.

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It hasn't changed much really, has it?

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No, but the sign's gone. Is the dairy there?

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No, there wasn't a dairy built there at that time.

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It wasn't long before Innes persuaded Augustus to join him at Rhyd-y-Fen.

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Now, for the first time, the two of them could paint together.

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By day, they painted bold and primitive landscapes,

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drawing on the lessons of France to reinvent the Welsh mountains.

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By night, they drank themselves stupid in the hotel bar.

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They used to get the beer from the cellar, bring it round

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and they used to serve it through the window.

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That window wasn't there. It was like a hatch thing.

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So just think, Augustus John and JD Innes,

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they've been sitting in there.

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They would've sat in there having a drink with their friends.

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It's hard imagining Rhyd-y-Fen being a hotel. I can't imagine it.

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There's somewhere else John and Innes would've sat.

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Here's the old toilet.

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If you look down here,

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you can see there's a stream running.

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-It's quite cosy.

-I wouldn't like to come out here in the winter

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because it might be cold

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-and I wouldn't like to.

-And your privates might catch a cold.

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Do you think we should go and have a look? Open the gate.

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Go through the gate.

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Innes and John's love of drinking was eclipsed only by their passion for Arenig.

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-Look at the colours. It is the colours we see today?

-No. Is it in winter?

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-I think so. What colour is this?

-White.

-Mm.

-Like snow.

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That's the old bridge, which would've been over there.

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As individuals, the two men couldn't have been more different.

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John was a wealthy celebrity in the prime of life.

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Innes, still in his early 20s, was completely unknown.

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-It's a nice picture. Do you like it?

-Yes.

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This is the only photograph which exists of him.

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There's no biography and only a handful of letters survive.

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But here in Cardiff, there's something else.

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It's a portrait of James Dickson Innes by Augustus John.

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And Innes is leaning on his elbow in such a debonair way

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and he's looking rather intense,

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like he's almost about to address you.

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And he's wearing the clothes that are very distinctive.

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Augustus John said Innes dressed with a distinction that owed nothing to the rules of fashion.

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And he has a black Quaker hat, a cadaverous cast of features

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and always the same dark suit and a bright scarf

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and apparently he always had a cane.

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It feels like every aspect of Innes's personality in his features has been intensified

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in the way that you find in many of Augustus John's portraits.

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There's a very strong sense of the person there.

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I think John was someone who drew particular qualities from the people he met

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and he saw in Innes a sort of childlike vision.

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He called him an intellectual virgin, which is not necessarily very complimentary,

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but he felt Innes had this direct connection

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with the landscape, particularly of Wales.

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And to someone like Augustus, who was perhaps always looking for excitement and diversion,

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that would've been a very attractive quality.

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I think the landscape of Wales has an eternal mystery to me.

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It's very similar to the mystery of painting.

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It doesn't have a definite image.

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And I suppose I've associated myself with this landscape for such a long time now,

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I feel totally immersed in it.

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Painter Iwan Gwyn Parry has come to Arenig to find out for himself

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how John and Innes worked.

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I saw the paintings of Arenig by John and Innes 20 years ago when I was a student

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and I was taken back by them and surprised equally.

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I was completely taken back by the fact that they were free of the constraints

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of Victorian academic painting.

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And they felt fresh and alive

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and I suppose it's paved the way for generations of painters

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to express their feelings and thoughts

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in a manner which is vigorous

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rather than a sombre, austere quality

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which a lot of Welsh landscape is depicted as.

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And John and Innes broke free of those constraints

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and liberated the Welsh landscape pictorially.

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Iwan wants to paint the mountain just as Innes and John did 100 years ago.

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First though, he must find the perfect spot.

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The idea of trying to paint this is an undertaking

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because there's not one definite angle that one could approach it.

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Personally, for me,

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I'm kind of interested in so many aspects of the mountain here,

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from the way the weather constantly changes direction

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and equally the way the light suddenly illuminate a piece of the mountain which has remained hidden.

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It'll be a challenge indeed.

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DOGS BARK

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Tiring of hotel life, in the spring of 1911,

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Innes and John decided to rent a cottage.

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Crouching at the base of Arenig, it was called Nant Ddu.

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BOTH: Whoa!

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THEY SPEAK WELSH

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John brought Dorelia and the children to stay,

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as well as a rag-bag of friends and acquaintances.

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One of them was the social butterfly Euphemia Lamb.

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They were both married, yet Euphemia let John first draw her

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and then bed her before quickly moving on to a new lover, Innes.

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She was a great romancer, an adventurous spirit,

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very eccentric and beautiful.

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Well, this was irresistible.

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And certainly, I think,

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the most important man in her life became Innes. That is what I think.

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I don't think that John and he were rivals over her.

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She was not an exclusive sort of person, you know.

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Totally besotted, Innes has painted his own portrait of Euphemia

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in the kitchen at Nant Ddu.

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For him, capturing the human form had never been a strong point.

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Whilst John easily adapted his drawing skills

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to create delicate impressions of Dorelia,

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Innes's figures, charming though they are,

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sometimes sit strangely in the landscape.

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His childlike vision of Augustus and family does, however, reveal one thing.

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John's passion for gypsies.

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John felt at home with the Welsh Romanies.

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To him, they represented the wild landscape in human form.

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This intense self-portrait suggests it was a wildness he aspired to.

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Augustus owned several gypsy caravans,

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lovingly decorating them with his own family

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who became accessories in a Romany fantasy.

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This, as you can see, is the considerable presence that John has.

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He loved the gypsy life.

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It was something exotic.

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He spent a lot of his time out of doors, on the road,

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free from encumbrances.

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Here is a letter that he wrote

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and there is a drawing at the top

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which expresses the sort of open-air life he liked,

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moving from place to place, meeting new people and then leaving them.

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It was something that...

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He had been warned as a child

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never to speak to the gypsies

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or he would be kidnapped.

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He longed to be kidnapped, to escape,

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and here he was doing it. He'd achieved what he'd dreamt of doing as a child.

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Close to Arenig, at the White Lion in Bala,

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John would drink and fight with the gypsies.

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Introductions were made by his close friend John Samson.

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Samson had spent years studying the Romanies

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and he too had a house near Arenig.

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This is the visitors' book

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from John Samson's home in North Wales.

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We've got a signature here

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of Augustus John, March 12th 1911,

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of Mr JD Innes, March 12th 1911.

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And here is a drawing, a self-portrait of Augustus.

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Absolutely incredible.

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The partying, the dancing, the drinking that's going on

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must have been instigated by this connection with Samson.

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And, of course, Innes would revel in it.

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When John Samson died...

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..the gypsies came in mass from all over the country.

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The ceremony with full Romany ritual

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was conducted by Mr Augustus John, RA,

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who wore a light slouch hat and a red and white muffler.

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Mr Augustus John delivered the funeral oration

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with a cigarette still smouldering between his fingers.

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I remember him at his marvellous home, Fryern Court, near the New Forest.

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He was an old man with a rather terrifying appearance to a small child.

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And very deaf, so it was difficult to have a conversation with him.

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In fact, one didn't have a conversation.

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You've had the need to follow beauty wherever you've struck it, I suspect.

0:29:020:29:07

Well, isn't that my profession as an artist?

0:29:090:29:13

You've got to get excited before you can do anything.

0:29:150:29:18

And beauty is a great exciter.

0:29:210:29:23

There's an inconsistency that I'm interested to ask you about,

0:29:230:29:27

because one of the things that is known about you

0:29:270:29:30

is the long stability and happiness of your family life

0:29:300:29:34

and yet, at the same time, you've written candidly about many of these adventures that are well known.

0:29:340:29:39

-And yet it's also quite clear...

-It's not inconsistency.

-It's not?

0:29:390:29:44

-Tell me why not.

-I wouldn't know.

0:29:440:29:46

How much have women really meant to you in your life?

0:29:460:29:50

Certainly, I'm interested in women.

0:29:500:29:52

-In beauty primarily or in love?

-I don't...

0:29:530:29:58

Beauty, I should think. If it's beauty, it's love, in my case.

0:29:580:30:02

He was not, in his old age, a very happy man.

0:30:070:30:13

I wish I'd known Augustus as a young man, not as a grumpy old man.

0:30:190:30:24

John's granddaughter Rebecca has come to Arenig to follow in his footsteps

0:30:300:30:35

and search out the places where he painted.

0:30:350:30:39

Unlike Innes, John liked to use the landscape as a background,

0:30:420:30:48

placing his models centre stage.

0:30:480:30:50

His lover Dorelia appears in many such works.

0:30:540:30:57

But like Innes, he was still breaking the time-honoured rules of British painting.

0:31:030:31:08

Both worked quickly

0:31:140:31:17

and they worked outside,

0:31:170:31:19

completing a landscape in as little as an hour.

0:31:190:31:22

Look at that. That is exactly...

0:31:250:31:30

..what we're looking at.

0:31:320:31:34

It's even the same colouring. It's all fairly cursory.

0:31:340:31:37

-A few blobs for sheep.

-SHE LAUGHS

0:31:370:31:40

In Augustus's landscapes,

0:31:420:31:44

he paints the rushes and the gorse bushes and sort of dots and dashes.

0:31:440:31:49

He's more concerned with the bigger picture.

0:31:500:31:53

But this is definitely the spot.

0:31:540:31:56

Fascinating.

0:31:580:32:00

Well, this is simply given the title Welsh Mountains and we don't know where it is.

0:32:060:32:11

But this reservoir surely gives you a clue.

0:32:110:32:13

It does. This track goes down to Llandecwyn at the bottom

0:32:130:32:16

-where the church is.

-I know Llandecwyn, yes.

-Up there.

0:32:160:32:21

And as for Lily at Tanygrisiau...

0:32:210:32:25

-Tanygrisiau.

-Under the stairs.

0:32:250:32:29

-You think this is...

-That's the Moelwyn there

0:32:290:32:32

and this is where... There's a dam there now.

0:32:320:32:36

-And this girl came from the East End of London.

-THEY LAUGH

0:32:360:32:40

She came a long way.

0:32:400:32:43

There's a wonderful story about her.

0:32:430:32:45

A poor girl from London of classic proportions who had never travelled beyond the city.

0:32:450:32:50

And she recognised the sheep because she'd seen them in Hyde Park.

0:32:500:32:54

THEY LAUGH

0:32:540:32:56

John wasn't alone in enjoying the company of young women.

0:33:160:33:21

Innes also drafted in models

0:33:210:33:23

to paint and seduce.

0:33:230:33:27

He liked gypsy girls, too,

0:33:270:33:30

famously chasing after one as she left Arenig for new pastures.

0:33:300:33:34

He never caught her.

0:33:340:33:37

Collapsing with exhaustion, Innes instead had to be rescued by a passer-by.

0:33:370:33:42

He should've known better.

0:33:420:33:45

Euphemia was his one true love.

0:33:450:33:48

But not only was their affair now breaking down, so was he.

0:33:480:33:54

Innes had contracted tuberculosis.

0:33:540:33:57

And he was dying.

0:33:580:34:00

So, this is the pulpit room and here is the James Dickson Innes.

0:34:260:34:30

I bought it in the 1980s

0:34:360:34:40

and it's rather a lovely story, I think.

0:34:400:34:43

It was on sale at Christie's in South Kensington

0:34:430:34:47

and this painting was actually on the cover of the catalogue

0:34:470:34:52

and the painting failed to meet its reserve.

0:34:520:34:56

When the sale was over, I asked Christie's who had bought it

0:34:560:35:00

and they said it had been bought in,

0:35:000:35:03

but they told the owner that we were very interested in it

0:35:030:35:08

and she let us have it for £2,500,

0:35:080:35:11

which was very generous of her,

0:35:110:35:14

and she gave us six months to pay.

0:35:140:35:16

I imagine that it was probably a bit shocking at the time.

0:35:280:35:33

These are revolutionary colours, aren't they, for 1911 in Britain.

0:35:330:35:39

It looks as though it's done quite quickly. You can see the board, particularly underneath the blue.

0:35:510:35:57

And the subject itself is fiendishly difficult to paint.

0:35:590:36:03

So you have to enjoy it for the fact that it was being tackled in an entirely new way.

0:36:030:36:11

The way we came to acquire it also has great poignancy.

0:36:150:36:19

When I sent the final cheque in to the previous owner,

0:36:200:36:24

the following morning, her husband told us that she'd died the day before.

0:36:240:36:29

She never told us that she was ill

0:36:340:36:36

and when you think that Innes, when he was painting it,

0:36:360:36:40

was also terminally ill, there is sadly

0:36:400:36:44

an extraordinary parallel.

0:36:440:36:46

Below Arenig Fawr, Iwan Gwyn Parry has begun painting.

0:37:090:37:15

Like Innes and John, he's working in oil on wood panel.

0:37:180:37:22

But with the sun setting fast,

0:37:230:37:26

he has little more than an hour to finish his landscape.

0:37:260:37:29

One could copy the mountain, but Matisse famously said

0:37:320:37:37

that exactitude is not necessarily truth

0:37:370:37:40

and I subscribe to that school of thinking, really.

0:37:400:37:44

Innes radically reinvented the mountain

0:37:460:37:48

and painted it not through a stylised academic tradition

0:37:480:37:54

but through this newly-found language of personal expression.

0:37:540:37:58

A painting's a lot more than a place.

0:38:020:38:06

It's a place within one's self, a place in the mind,

0:38:060:38:09

and I think he's translated that through Arenig.

0:38:090:38:12

But I'm sure he sat and gazed in wonderment at this spectacle

0:38:120:38:17

and wrestled with himself and wrestled with a painting

0:38:170:38:22

which is the spirit of a human being

0:38:220:38:24

in relationship to a sense of place.

0:38:240:38:27

The light is fading beautifully.

0:38:340:38:37

I have perhaps half an hour to resolve this

0:38:370:38:41

and that's the end of the painting.

0:38:410:38:44

And whatever it looks like in half an hour, that will be the final work.

0:38:440:38:48

Yes, this is the gentleman called JD Innes.

0:39:130:39:16

Looks a handsome fellow there, doesn't he?

0:39:160:39:19

-Yes.

-Look at his clothes. What kind of clothes are they?

-Posh, expensive.

0:39:190:39:23

-You think so?

-Really posh. Truly posh.

0:39:230:39:25

And this is a picture of his girlfriend, a lady called Euphemia.

0:39:250:39:32

-And...

-That's a name you don't hear every day.

0:39:320:39:34

And this lady was the love of his life.

0:39:340:39:38

And the story goes that she was JD Innes's girlfriend

0:39:380:39:42

but she didn't want to carry on being his girlfriend

0:39:420:39:45

and he was so heartbroken that he gathered all the letters she'd sent to him,

0:39:450:39:51

put them in a casket and took them up Arenig Fawr and buried them

0:39:510:39:55

cos he was so upset.

0:39:550:39:57

-What do you think of that story?

-It's very sad, though.

0:39:570:40:00

-Mm.

-Mm.

-I think he was very upset.

0:40:000:40:04

The Jones boys, Oisin and Hugh,

0:40:070:40:10

are keen to know if the myth of Euphemia's casket is true.

0:40:100:40:15

And that means climbing Arenig.

0:40:150:40:18

At the top, there's no sign of a casket.

0:40:380:40:43

But there is something else.

0:40:430:40:45

BOTH: In memory of the crew of the Flying Fortress

0:40:470:40:51

which crashed on the Arenig 4th August 1943.

0:40:510:40:56

During the Second World War,

0:41:030:41:05

an American bomber crew lost their bearings on a night mission over Wales.

0:41:050:41:10

All 12 on board died

0:41:100:41:13

when the aircraft smashed into the top of Arenig Fawr,

0:41:130:41:16

apparently slicing off one of its peaks.

0:41:160:41:20

If Euphemia's casket was here,

0:41:220:41:25

it would've been vaporised in a fireball of molten aluminium.

0:41:250:41:30

When we were exploring in the rocks over there,

0:41:380:41:42

we found these old pieces of aluminium,

0:41:420:41:47

little pieces of the aeroplane that crashed here.

0:41:470:41:51

When the aeroplane crashed, it burst into flames

0:41:510:41:54

and the aluminium turned into these.

0:41:540:41:58

John later said that burying the letters

0:42:050:42:09

was Innes's way of embracing the mountain.

0:42:090:42:13

In Innes's head, Arenig and Euphemia were the same thing.

0:42:130:42:18

This desire to connect with the wilderness was something Augustus John perfectly understood.

0:42:190:42:25

For him too, the landscape was everything.

0:42:250:42:29

This is a painting called Llyn Treweryn by Augustus John

0:42:460:42:50

and it shows a view looking west from Arenig,

0:42:500:42:55

looking towards the Moelwyn Mountains, which is probably that peak there in the distance,

0:42:550:43:00

and I think it's a beautiful painting. I think it's one of John's best. It's certainly my favourite

0:43:000:43:06

because there's no clutter, there's no trying to impress anybody,

0:43:060:43:10

it's a very simple response to his home country, to his native land.

0:43:100:43:14

Quite subtle touches, the warm blue of the sky reflecting in the warm blue of the lake,

0:43:170:43:24

and then there's the cold blue of the mountain, that funny peak in the distance, which is quite stylised.

0:43:240:43:30

I think he just was good at landscapes.

0:43:330:43:36

He didn't have to do these big symbolic figures that he was painting beforehand

0:43:360:43:41

which ranked him as a symbolist,

0:43:410:43:43

and they had to have some sort of enigmatic content.

0:43:430:43:46

This was just a response to his own country and it was simple painting.

0:43:460:43:50

Very beautiful. Very much catches the spirit of the place.

0:43:500:43:54

You just feel you want to go there and look for it.

0:43:540:43:57

Augustus John's granddaughter Rebecca

0:44:150:44:18

first came looking for Llyn Treweryn ten years ago.

0:44:180:44:22

In the distance is this very defined... It looks like a pyramid.

0:44:230:44:28

Rebecca's hoping that one of the locals can spot the pyramid-shaped mountain from John's picture.

0:44:300:44:37

There is it. Come on. You'll see it.

0:44:380:44:40

Can you see it, to the right of the left-hand-most pylon?

0:44:420:44:47

See a little... You used to see far more, but the trees have grown up.

0:44:480:44:52

-I know.

-Trees are...

0:44:520:44:55

-Bit of a nuisance, aren't they?

-They are in a way, yes.

0:44:550:44:59

-This is Cwm Prysor.

-Cwm Prysor, yeah.

0:45:030:45:06

-There's the gate you climbed over.

-Yes.

0:45:060:45:08

It's jammed shut to stop sheep getting out.

0:45:080:45:10

My father remembers coming to this station aged nine

0:45:100:45:16

and he said that the station mistress would always put out some hot lardy cakes from the oven.

0:45:160:45:23

-Well, you do.

-He's never forgotten.

-It's right in the wilds

0:45:230:45:27

and when people come visiting, they're always very welcome.

0:45:270:45:30

When I came here ten years ago,

0:45:330:45:37

I felt a tremendous feeling of the past,

0:45:370:45:40

of a century ago.

0:45:400:45:44

You know, my grandfather had stood here, painted this not brilliant painting, actually, I don't think,

0:45:440:45:51

and my father was here as a child and...

0:45:510:45:54

..you get this sense of... time staying still.

0:45:560:46:02

Yes, I was overwhelmed, to be honest.

0:46:050:46:09

There are three things an artist needs.

0:46:310:46:34

His eye,

0:46:340:46:36

his hand

0:46:360:46:39

and his heart.

0:46:390:46:41

And two won't do.

0:46:410:46:43

This is my favourite painting.

0:46:520:46:55

Innes's Arenig Fawr of 1911.

0:46:550:46:58

When I first saw it,

0:47:020:47:04

it just bowled me over.

0:47:040:47:07

It's strange. It's a tiny little panel

0:47:070:47:10

and half the picture is the sky, the huge cumulus clouds that come here in the spring.

0:47:100:47:15

It's got the Fauvish brush mark and the stroke.

0:47:150:47:18

Look at the marks around there.

0:47:180:47:21

That's pure Fauvism. That's where that comes from.

0:47:210:47:25

Even these little dots here. There must have been Welsh black cattle down there at the time.

0:47:250:47:30

The impact, for me, was he's doing something with something I know about, somewhere I've been,

0:47:350:47:42

and he's making something of it

0:47:420:47:45

and I think that was the trigger.

0:47:450:47:48

It's never wavered.

0:47:480:47:50

After a little over two years in North Wales,

0:47:570:48:00

Innes and John had produced hundreds of paintings.

0:48:000:48:05

Both passionately believed in what they were doing.

0:48:050:48:09

The question was, would anyone else?

0:48:090:48:12

In February 1913, New York City played host to a major event in the history of art.

0:48:220:48:29

The International Exhibition of Modern Art

0:48:300:48:33

introduced America to the same group of European artists

0:48:330:48:37

who'd wowed London three years earlier.

0:48:370:48:40

Men like Picasso,

0:48:400:48:43

Seurat

0:48:430:48:46

and Van Gogh.

0:48:460:48:48

But also two new names,

0:48:480:48:50

James Dickson Innes...

0:48:500:48:53

..and Augustus John.

0:48:550:48:58

For Innes in particular, New York was a triumph.

0:49:000:49:03

Three years before, he was unknown, even in England.

0:49:030:49:08

Now he stood shoulder to shoulder with some of the world's greatest artists.

0:49:080:49:14

But his euphoria was short-lived.

0:49:140:49:17

Innes had repeatedly ignored doctors' orders to stay off the mountain

0:49:170:49:22

and the booze.

0:49:220:49:24

Now the tuberculosis was tightening its grip on his life.

0:49:240:49:30

I think the last light is clearly a metaphor in his paintings,

0:49:500:49:55

as if he was staring into his mortality, really.

0:49:550:50:00

And I think his escapism was lost

0:50:020:50:07

once the ray of sunshine would disappear.

0:50:070:50:10

Every time I've looked at the landscape,

0:50:150:50:18

I see something completely different

0:50:180:50:20

and I realise that it's quite a haunting sight

0:50:200:50:23

to just stare at the top of an ancient mountain

0:50:230:50:26

hoping that you could capture something.

0:50:260:50:30

So I'm trying to come up with inventive solutions to explain the space across the plateau here.

0:50:310:50:38

I'm trying to find inventive solutions to deal with the changes of light.

0:50:380:50:42

So the painting's constantly in shift.

0:50:430:50:46

Innes painted with confidence and verve when he was up here.

0:50:530:50:58

It's a very reflective period in his life

0:50:580:51:01

where I think he saw enlightenment and meaning in this particular place

0:51:010:51:07

and his paintings, for me, are not just of this topography,

0:51:070:51:12

they're metaphors for his state of mind.

0:51:120:51:16

Yes, and I think... I think I've concluded the image now.

0:51:220:51:29

It's a thrill if Innes knew we were still discussing him

0:51:350:51:39

and his work was taken seriously, not just the story of him coming here,

0:51:390:51:44

but his paintings, his magnificent body of work that he's left.

0:51:440:51:48

Six months after triumph in New York, Innes was close to death.

0:52:160:52:21

In one of his final paintings, the Crucifixion,

0:52:220:52:25

he embraces a classical subject for the first time.

0:52:250:52:29

Staging his own death in front of the mountain he loved.

0:52:300:52:35

There was a very moving moment when Augustus took Euphemia Lamb

0:52:430:52:48

to see Innes for the last time.

0:52:480:52:51

This tortuous love affair he'd had with her,

0:52:520:52:56

the letters that he'd buried on the summit of Arenig Fawr in the silver casket.

0:52:560:53:01

John said what a sad meeting it was

0:53:010:53:05

and he left them alone for a while

0:53:050:53:08

but he did say how sad it all was.

0:53:080:53:11

And a tragic end.

0:53:120:53:14

Within a month, August 22nd 1914,

0:53:150:53:21

Innes died of tuberculosis.

0:53:210:53:24

But he left a body of work

0:53:260:53:28

that was done in an absolute flame of passion.

0:53:280:53:34

Just two and a half years of intense creative activity.

0:53:370:53:43

And that, I think, is the only way he knew how to live.

0:53:430:53:46

He was a man in a hurry.

0:53:500:53:52

And sadly it was all over for him.

0:53:530:53:56

JD Innes was 27 when he died.

0:54:000:54:03

Together with Augustus John, he flew the flag,

0:54:040:54:07

and it was a Welsh flag, for British Post-Impressionism.

0:54:070:54:11

I suppose, in a way, Innes could be compared with modern superstars like James Dean.

0:54:120:54:17

He lived a rather quick life,

0:54:170:54:20

he was reckless with his health,

0:54:200:54:23

he was committing slow suicide, people said.

0:54:230:54:25

He knew he was ill, he knew he shouldn't drink, he shouldn't live a life of dissipation, but he did.

0:54:250:54:30

And that's the romantic image that appeals to me.

0:54:300:54:33

And he kept on painting till he couldn't paint any longer.

0:54:330:54:37

I admire him for that. I think that's better than lingering on with a fading reputation.

0:54:370:54:44

Augustus John would outlive JD Innes by 46 years.

0:54:460:54:51

But he largely abandoned landscapes,

0:54:510:54:54

settling comfortably into the role of portrait painter to the stars.

0:54:540:54:59

Do you consider that you are now accepted by the art establishment in this country as being a master,

0:55:030:55:11

or do you think you're still regarded as being rather a wild man of art?

0:55:110:55:15

I think I've got a very fishy reputation.

0:55:160:55:18

-In what respect?

-As a painter.

0:55:180:55:22

-Why fishy?

-Because I'm out of date.

0:55:220:55:25

Many believe that Wales was Augustus John's finest hour

0:55:280:55:34

and Innes his inspiration.

0:55:340:55:37

John said this was Innes's sacred mountain.

0:55:410:55:47

He also said that the mountain was his spiritual home.

0:55:480:55:52

I find that brief period when they are both working together

0:55:590:56:04

is almost a school of their own, they're equal.

0:56:040:56:08

They had different strengths. They were not competitors.

0:56:080:56:13

I don't think you can say

0:56:130:56:17

that either led the other. They both gained from the other.

0:56:170:56:21

It's a very harmonious combination of two talents.

0:56:210:56:25

I personally prefer Innes's interpretations of the mountain.

0:56:350:56:40

I prefer his colour and he's certainly more decorative with his use of paint

0:56:400:56:47

and somehow they're more fantastical

0:56:470:56:51

and more imaginative and more appealing somehow.

0:56:510:56:56

Not so real. I mean, Augustus's landscapes are more the same colour,

0:56:560:57:02

but Innes had quite a different approach

0:57:020:57:06

and I do prefer Innes's paintings of Arenig, yes.

0:57:060:57:10

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