A Picture of London


A Picture of London

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Imagine London in ruins.

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Destruction and terror have haunted this city,

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providing perpetual ruin and rebirth.

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Writers, artists and architects have been inspired to create

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great works of beauty that document a city beset by tragedy.

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# In the city, there's a thousand things I want to say to you

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# But whenever I approach you You make me look a fool

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# I wanna say

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# I wanna tell you

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# About the young ideas

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# But you turn them into fears

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# In the city

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# In the city

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# In the city there's a thousand things I wanna say to you. #

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Artistic interpretations of London across the centuries

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record hundreds of different cities...

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..pictures of London as a city of pageantry and celebration...

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..pictures of London as a city of unruliness and anarchy.

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Here, glory and beauty have always vied

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with stink and suffering for the attention of artists.

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I first drove a crane in '82.

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I climbed up and I sat in the cab and I was very nervous, to put it mildly,

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cos I wasn't particularly fond of heights.

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I'd say the first time I was really quite taken with it,

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looking around thinking, "I'm right in the centre of this.

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"This is a world city. Everybody in the world knows about London."

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And I'm sitting over the top of it, looking around,

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and it is a... Yeah, it's a privilege.

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The city has been there since forever.

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You know, if you look at the old street system in almost any area,

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certainly of central London,

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you still see the little alleyways and little twisty little pieces.

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Just a hotchpotch of planning over the years.

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It gives me a feeling of change because the skeleton was laid down

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years and years and years ago.

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You can still see the shape there

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and the shape, presumably, will stay there forever.

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Each generation has tried to put a stamp on it.

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Throughout history, many have tried to impose beauty and order

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on London's streets,

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but this city has discovered time after time

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its true character lies in its unplanned, chaotic nature.

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London has burned many times across the centuries,

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its day of judgement revisited again and again.

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'All over the Thames with one's face in the wind,

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'you were almost burned with a shower of fire drops.'

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'Above 10,000 houses all in one flame,

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'the noise and crackling and thunder of the impetuous flames,

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'the shrieking of women and children, the hurry of people,

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'the fall of towers, houses and churches was like a hideous storm.'

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The Great Fire Of London burned for seven days.

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'The ruins resembling the picture of Troy.

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'London was but is no more.'

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Over 13,000 buildings were destroyed.

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It was the calamity of the age,

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but the smouldering hole at the heart of the city

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would prove to be a huge inspiration.

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Plans were drawn up to bring a new order of beauty to London.

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Architect Christopher Wren proposed a London to rival

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the glories of ancient Rome -

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triumphal avenues and great piazzas.

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At its heart - the new Cathedral of St Paul's.

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Wren would create the first dome to be seen in London.

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It would be a new age of classicism, of harmony and proportion,

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banishing forever the chaos of the old Gothic city.

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St Paul's would be the symbol of a London reborn,

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a great phoenix risen from the flames.

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Had Wren's plans for the whole city been realised,

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the look of London would be very different.

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'Wren's London would have been a noble city.

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But it was not to be.

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The forces of conservatism were too strong.

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And so the streets of the city remain narrow and winding.

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And this is the result.

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The imprint of ancient London defines the map of the modern city.

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The city sheds its skin while the bones stay the same.

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Bank junction is like...

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It's the pulse of London. It's the heartbeat of London.

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You've got the Royal Exchange right in front of you,

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you've got the Bank of England itself on the left,

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and there's so much going on there.

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There's a lot of stuff going on behind the scenes.

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You just don't actually see it,

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but you can virtually feel it going on there.

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You can envisage the old Roman legions, I suppose,

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crossing the junction there because initially

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it was the old Roman part of London.

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Time just sort of stands still while you're there.

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If you could sort of half shut your eyes, you can see the old traders.

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You know, they're going to Lloyd's of London

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or little coffee houses in the back streets that are still there.

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And you can see behind the windows of all the buildings there

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the clerks with quill pens buzzing away, making lists and charts,

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just generally getting on with the business of London.

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It's the pulse. It's the heartbeat of London,

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virtually in that little area there.

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During the 17th and 18th centuries, new streets and houses spread west.

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Beyond the old city, a very different London was emerging.

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The Georgian London of Bloomsbury and Soho

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would be the definition of urban elegance for the age.

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It drew admirers from around the world.

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'London has many fine open spaces called squares.

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'The centres of these squares are shut in by railings.

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'Those of Soho, of Leicester Fields of the Red Lion

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'and the Golden Square are in this style.'

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Even the image of the Thames would be civilised

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in the eyes of Venice's greatest painter.

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Canaletto's picture of London is one

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of a beautiful city on the water,

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refined and aesthetically perfect.

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But Canaletto's London is pure artifice.

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He moved elements of the city around to suit his compositions.

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These are pictures of an idealised London.

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They are the dream pictures of their age, commissioned by Londoners

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who yearned for their city to be the new Venice.

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Although Canaletto spent almost a decade in this city,

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he rarely strayed from its grand thoroughfares and facades.

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Coming!

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How are you?

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Other artists were drawn instead to the toil and sweat of London.

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Covent Garden was home to a raucous meat, vegetable and flower market

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that survived into the 1970s.

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This is the New Covent Garden, which is in Vauxhall.

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This moved here in 1974 from the Old Covent Garden,

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which is in Covent Garden, not to get mixed up

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between the New Covent Garden and the Old Covent Garden.

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The spirit, I think, still remains here because of the people.

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Morning. How are you?

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Got Tommy Coopers in your team got beat every week just like that!

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LAURA LAUGHS

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The banter that goes on and the sexist remarks, which I love,

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I know I shouldn't say that but I love it,

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it's part of Covent Garden. It's Old London.

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My great-great-grandmother,

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she used to sell violets on the streets of London,

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like the old-fashioned ones you see in Mary Poppins,

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the old lady that's selling violets on the streets.

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She would have gone early in the morning to the Old Covent Garden

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and I dare say she had a bit of a whale of a time there.

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Covent Garden is in my blood and I just feel like it's my home.

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It's like being home.

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I can feel the atmosphere of how it must have been in the old days.

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It must have been dirty, smelly, busy

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but absolutely full of people that were just alive.

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Really, really alive in the mornings, and shouting and selling

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and, you know, trying to barter

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and just the whole thing must have been absolutely magical, really.

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Around Covent Garden Market grew up a world of theatres,

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brothels and coffee houses that attracted writers and artists.

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Urban life in the raw was to become the subject matter of art.

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Painter William Hogarth rejected artifice

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to create a new picture of London.

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In a series of paintings from 1736 entitled Four Times Of The Day,

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Hogarth paints London as a divided city,

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where high society rubbed shoulders with London's chaotic grimy truths.

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It begins on a freezing morning in Covent Garden.

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An affluent lady makes her way to church past drunken revellers

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staggering home from the night before.

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She is oblivious to the huddle of beggars

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and whores warming themselves by the fire.

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At noon, the notorious slum district

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of St Giles is a divided world.

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On the left, a group of fashionable Huguenot immigrants

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pour out of the French church.

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On the other side of the street are a group of well fed

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but slovenly English peasants.

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The only thing that connects these two worlds is a dead cat

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that lies across the kerb.

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Evening takes place at Sadler's Wells Theatre on the edge of town.

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A young family's attempts to escape the crush and heat of the city

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have ended, ironically, in exhaustion and frustration.

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Finally, Hogarth takes us at night to Charing Cross.

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A chamber pot is emptied out of a high window.

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Its contents fall towards a drunk Freemason as he staggers home.

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His light illuminates a group of homeless children

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who huddle against a wall trying to sleep.

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Balanced precariously above their heads -

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bowls of fresh blood on the barber surgeon's windowsill.

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Hogarth renamed the very streets of the city after

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the alcoholic drinks that were fuelling such debauchery and cheer.

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A warning of the evils of gin

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and a celebration of the healthy properties of beer.

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Well, there's one particular smell I don't like.

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It's this dampness that comes

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at the end of the weekend,

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at the back of these restaurants

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where everything's been removed.

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It's a sort of... I don't know how to describe it,

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like a stale grease, food.

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It's a very depressing smell, you know what I mean?

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Rotten meat, rotten meat, yeah.

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I don't like dead rats. I don't mind live ones.

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Something about dead rats, I don't know why.

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I hope he's not doing what I think he is,

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otherwise I'll have to go and to arrest him.

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Well, there's a good chance that is probably urine, yeah.

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You can always tell if it's in a corner, you know what I mean.

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If it's hidden away in a corner, that urine, you know what I mean?

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That, I would imagine...

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HE SNIFFS

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..I should say it's Coca Cola.

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I remember once a girl was so sick walking through,

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she was so bad, she kept getting sick.

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I said, "Hang on a minute, darling," and I gave her a bag.

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I said, "You do the rest."

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Yeah, blood was actually found somewhere around here.

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He's having an argument with his girlfriend,

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he broke a bottle and stabbed himself and got up and walked off.

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It's mayhem, you know,

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some really good punch-ups, you know what I mean,

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and then they just go home.

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They let off steam and I come here the next morning

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and try to work out what it was, who won.

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Hogarth was the first artist to see the streets of London as theatre.

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Their grime and detritus,

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grotesque characters and events telling a very particular story.

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The seamier climate of the city streets has inspired ever since.

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And it's fun because you're watching other people's behaviour.

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Cos it's such a job, it gets into your blood.

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People will tell you that, you know.

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This and the refuge, it gets inside you.

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It's inside you. You find it hard to do anything else.

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At the end of the 18th century, poet and visionary William Blake

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prophesied a city where awfulness and wonder becomes the same thing.

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Industrialisation, the machine age and the railways

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would transform the look and the experience of the city.

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No more the beautiful neo-classical Georgian city,

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London was to become a huge sprawling metropolis.

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One million inhabitants in 1800

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would become 6.5 million a century later.

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Now the truest pictures of London would find beauty

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and inspiration in the most horrific qualities of the city.

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This immense view of the sprawling metropolis was billed as

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an illusionistic scene designed to thrill and excite.

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Once thought lost forever, it was discovered in America in 1940,

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being used to line a crate of firearms.

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Above the city, all seems wondrous,

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but at street level it was out of control again.

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'The different departments of life are jumbled together.

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'The hod carrier, the low mechanic, the tapster, the publican,

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'the shopkeeper, the petty fogger, the citizen and courtier

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'all tread upon the kibes of one another.

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'They are seen everywhere rambling, riding, rolling, rushing,

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'jostling, mixing, bouncing, cracking

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'and crashing in one vile ferment of stupidity and corruption.'

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For the last 200 years, many artists have tried

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to contain London in one vast image or sprawling work.

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I wanted to express my fascination with the city...

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..its contradictions,

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its intricacy...

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..its mass of people,

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all living their separate and sometimes communal lives.

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The Isles of Slough, trading estate.

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I made London into an island for a number of reasons.

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Britain is an island.

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It's a collection of islands.

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It informs our national psyche.

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It's a wry joke on London's self-importance.

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The Isle of Woking, dormitory island town.

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It's an image of both order and chaos,

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and, at times,

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an image of where the order descends into chaos.

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Making it, I was trying to say how bewildering it can be,

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sometimes, to live in the place.

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The infinite amounts of stories and lives and histories that,

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you know, ten million people in a city experience.

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'The early clerk population are fast pouring into the city,

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'middle-aged men whose salaries have by no means

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'increased in the same proportion as their families, plod steadily along,

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'apparently with no object in view but the counting house,

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'knowing by sight almost everybody they meet or overtake.

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'For they have seen them every morning, Sunday excepted,

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'during the last 20 years but speaking to no-one.'

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On the 16th October 1834, the Houses of Parliament burned to the ground.

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Once again, it was as though the day of judgement

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for the city was at hand.

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Among the astonished crowd was a Cockney artist named

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Joseph Mallord William Turner.

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Sketchbook in hand, he feverishly captured the scene as it happened.

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Turner became obsessed with the event,

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and the sketches resulted in an epic oil painting.

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And, as before, out of destruction would arise

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a symbol of London's state of mind.

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William Kent imagined the Houses of Parliament looking like this.

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A classical building, symbolic of order and harmony

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might have radically changed how the look of the city developed.

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But it's no surprise that, once more, dreams of order were thwarted.

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Sir Charles Barrie's intricate Gothic revival design

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was far more suited

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to a metropolis that was becoming ever more chaotic and dark...

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..a city of the night.

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'The streets of London, to be beheld in the very height of their glory,

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'should be seen on a dark, dull murky winter's night'

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'when the heavy, lazy mist which hangs over every object

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'makes the gas lamps look brighter

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'and the brilliantly lighted shops more splendid

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'from the contrast they present to the darkness around.'

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'London's a very quiet place at night, very ethereal -

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is that the right word?

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We all have our own favourite spots and they're usually

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sort of dotted around London at different, different positions.

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You can't obviously drive a cab for eight or nine hours

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continuously and you have to find a little quiet spot.

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There's a small church called St Mary's Church,

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in Battersea Church Road, and it lies just on the bend of a river.

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You can see cormorants, seagulls, terns,

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feeding and just sitting there themselves as well.

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You can see the large planes going over on their way to

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London Airport but there's no noise at all,

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and it's just like a little part of the countryside.

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I love the tranquillity of it.

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You can watch the river slowly go past like it must have done for millions of years.

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'When the evening mist clothes the riverside with poetry...

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'..tall chimneys become campanili

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'and the warehouses are palaces in the night.

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'And the whole city hangs in the heavens and fairyland is before us.'

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American painter James McNeill Whistler faced tough criticism

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for these near abstract night-time images but, like so many artists,

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his picture of 19th-century London

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was of a city cloaked and impenetrable.

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# A foggy day in London town

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# Had me low and it had me down

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# I view the morning with much alarm

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# The British Museum

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# It lost its charm... #

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These smoggy pea-soupers were a combination of fog and smoke

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from the increasingly large industry that lined the river.

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Pea-soupers were commonplace until the 1950s.

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In these fogs, all the grime and glory

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of Victorian London was contained.

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They have become the defining image of the city.

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In the late 19th century,

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two celebrated men trod the fogbound streets of London.

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One was Claude Monet, the painter who sought beauty in the world,

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the other a philosopher, Karl Marx,

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who had a mission to expose poverty, suffering and injustice.

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Two very different pictures of London.

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'Without the fog, London would not be a beautiful city.

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'It is the fog that gives it its marvellous breadth.

0:31:210:31:25

'Its regular massive blocks become grandiose in this mysterious cloak.'

0:31:250:31:31

For Monet, the smoggy conditions made London beautiful.

0:31:330:31:36

For Marx, they made it hellish.

0:31:420:31:45

The source of the acrid smog was the factories

0:31:460:31:49

of Whitechapel, Stepney and Bethnal Green in the East End.

0:31:490:31:54

The living conditions in this notorious district

0:31:540:31:58

represented all that Marx and his followers railed against.

0:31:580:32:02

Such contrasting views defined the picture of London

0:32:060:32:10

in the late 19th century.

0:32:100:32:13

'The Thames is so wonderful

0:32:130:32:15

'because the mist is always changing its shapes and colours,

0:32:150:32:19

'always making its light mysterious and building palaces of cloud

0:32:190:32:23

'out of mere Parliament Houses with their jags and turrets.'

0:32:230:32:28

'When the mist collaborates with night and rain,

0:32:280:32:32

'the masterpiece is created.'

0:32:320:32:34

'When I see these dirty tattered children with their bright eyes

0:32:380:32:42

'and angel faces, I am filled with apprehension,

0:32:420:32:45

'as if I were seeing drowning people.

0:32:450:32:48

'How to save them?

0:32:500:32:51

'Which to save first?'

0:32:530:32:55

And the squalor of the East End collided with the beauty

0:33:020:33:06

of the fogbound Thames at London's docks -

0:33:060:33:09

around the turn of the 20th century,

0:33:090:33:12

the busiest, most important port on the planet.

0:33:120:33:15

It's a world now almost entirely lost.

0:33:170:33:21

You see the river at night or early in the morning

0:33:270:33:30

and with no other traffic about,

0:33:300:33:32

and you squint and close your eyes to all the tower blocks and the modern buildings.

0:33:320:33:37

Some of the river frontage hasn't changed at all

0:33:370:33:41

in many hundreds of years.

0:33:410:33:43

'This stretch of the Thames from London Bridge to the Albert Docks

0:33:530:33:57

'recalls a jungle by the confused,

0:33:570:33:59

'varied and impenetrable aspect of the buildings that line the shore.

0:33:590:34:03

'They hide the depths of London's

0:34:050:34:07

'infinitely varied, vigorous, seething life.'

0:34:070:34:11

Joseph Conrad was a seafaring man and knew the grim life

0:34:150:34:18

concealed behind the docks too well to glorify it.

0:34:180:34:21

But he could not deny the romance of the place.

0:34:250:34:28

'When one talks of the Thames Docks, beauty is a vain word,

0:34:330:34:39

'but romance has lived too long upon this river not to have thrown

0:34:390:34:43

'a mantle of glamour upon its banks.'

0:34:430:34:45

The river is a special place at any time of the day

0:34:510:34:54

but the middle of the winter when it's pitch black, when there's a fog

0:34:540:34:58

and a mist hanging over the river, it can be a really eerie place.

0:34:580:35:02

The sublime feeling of wonder mixed with fear drew artists to London.

0:35:110:35:17

It was a city both aesthetically pleasing and horrific.

0:35:190:35:23

This is the city that would launch the career of Alfred Hitchcock.

0:35:320:35:36

Everything that would become known as Hitchcockian,

0:35:380:35:42

dread, apprehension, excitement and thrill,

0:35:420:35:45

was contained in the world of the London fog.

0:35:450:35:49

This great vision of the Thames Embankment is of a London

0:36:100:36:14

engulfed by the fires of hell.

0:36:140:36:16

To imagine London as a blasted, ruined, biblical city

0:36:210:36:26

became fashionable in the 19th century...

0:36:260:36:29

..as if London had at last taken its place amongst

0:36:460:36:49

the great cities of antiquity.

0:36:490:36:50

'We had one or two nights in Whitechapel,

0:37:110:37:13

'duly attended by police in plain clothes.

0:37:130:37:16

'We explored the docks, we visited the night refuges,

0:37:180:37:22

'we journeyed up and down the river.'

0:37:220:37:24

Something to read on the train apart from the Evening Standard.

0:37:280:37:31

Free Evening Standard.

0:37:310:37:34

I did sell one once. I remember it well.

0:37:340:37:38

'Dore's constant remark was that London is not ugly.'

0:37:380:37:43

When you've got nowhere to go like for me for instance,

0:37:450:37:49

I'd walk the streets.

0:37:490:37:51

I wouldn't settle anywhere. I'd sleep in the day.

0:37:510:37:54

But during the night I'd walk. If I'd nowhere to go, I'd walk.

0:37:540:37:58

And the night isn't that long and actually it's quite beautiful.

0:37:580:38:02

And you'd see the sun come up,

0:38:030:38:06

you'd see the birds, you hear them.

0:38:060:38:09

It is a beauty.

0:38:090:38:11

You're seeing things that people who are shutting their doors at night,

0:38:140:38:18

and have to go to work in the morning, don't see.

0:38:180:38:21

With these images, artist Gustave Dore created a defining picture

0:38:280:38:32

of 19th-century London and its East End.

0:38:320:38:35

Gothic, tightly packed, smoky, a place of poverty,

0:38:380:38:42

where the dispossessed, the newly arrived, scraped a living

0:38:420:38:45

on the dark dangerous streets.

0:38:450:38:47

But a recent discovery in the cellar of an old school in Hackney

0:38:570:39:01

several years ago reveals a very different

0:39:010:39:04

and proud picture of London's East End -

0:39:040:39:08

a collection of 2,000 glass plate negatives

0:39:080:39:11

dating from the 1860s, from a portrait studio in Hackney.

0:39:110:39:16

In contrast to Gustave Dore's East End, these are images of hope,

0:39:210:39:26

of dreams, playful and frivolous.

0:39:260:39:28

They are the work of photographer Arthur Eason.

0:39:320:39:36

Just brush the hair down a bit there. You've been a bit windswept.

0:39:570:40:01

-And you're going to keep the hat on? You always keep it on?

-All the time.

0:40:010:40:04

-Even at bedtime, Mum.

-Even in bed.

0:40:040:40:06

Even in bed, really?

0:40:060:40:08

My family first came to London in the 1950s from Barbados.

0:40:160:40:21

And we're getting the smiles happening, too. This is good.

0:40:210:40:24

We were born in Hackney, brought up in Hackney,

0:40:240:40:26

we were used to this big community, this like big family of people.

0:40:260:40:29

Pretend you're enjoying yourself. That's good. OK.

0:40:290:40:33

Let's have you relax a little bit, shall we?

0:40:330:40:37

I don't think I could really pigeonhole Hackney people as such.

0:40:370:40:41

They're far too varied, far too many ethnic groups,

0:40:410:40:44

different types of people here for all sorts of different reasons.

0:40:440:40:48

You're very serious over there! WOMEN LAUGH

0:40:480:40:51

That's better. OK.

0:40:510:40:52

I guess if there's one consistency at all,

0:40:520:40:56

it would be the fact that they're not from here originally.

0:40:560:41:01

There are far more people passing through the area, on their way

0:41:030:41:07

to other places, or settling here, but in general haven't started here.

0:41:070:41:11

And as the 20th century dawned, the earliest images of London captured

0:41:160:41:20

on moving film reveal a fast-paced city, chaotic and dramatic.

0:41:200:41:24

# Have you heard the latest thing in rhythm?

0:41:260:41:30

# It's a dream and it's got all London in a daze

0:41:300:41:34

# Got the population swinging rhythm

0:41:340:41:39

# And you're gonna crave this dancing craze

0:41:390:41:45

# Let's swing London rhythm

0:41:450:41:47

# Let's bring London rhythm back into town

0:41:470:41:54

# Come on, babe, let's trot 'em

0:41:540:41:57

# Ain't that music got 'em

0:41:570:41:59

# Dancing is delight

0:41:590:42:01

# While you're holding me so tight

0:42:010:42:04

# Stomp that London rhythm

0:42:040:42:06

# Romp that London rhythm, wait!

0:42:060:42:10

# Mooch around

0:42:100:42:13

# We'll begin at seven

0:42:130:42:15

# Gladding straight for heaven

0:42:150:42:18

# London rhythm is in town tonight. #

0:42:180:42:23

The rhythm and speed of this increasingly mechanised city

0:42:230:42:27

was to inspire the painter Christopher Nevinson.

0:42:270:42:30

He sees London as a crowded interconnected structure,

0:42:320:42:36

the brain of the planet.

0:42:360:42:38

Throughout the 20th century, London was a city caught between

0:42:480:42:52

the past and the future.

0:42:520:42:53

Many artists found inspiration

0:42:550:42:57

in the buildings and traditions that survived around them.

0:42:570:43:01

Others were inspired by the emerging modern city

0:43:030:43:07

and imagined what it might be like in the future.

0:43:070:43:10

Film director Gaston Quiribet created special effects to

0:43:190:43:24

transport the viewer through time in this incredible 1924 film.

0:43:240:43:29

It is the story of a machine that could see into the future.

0:43:330:43:36

Its inventor turns its gaze on London to reveal a hi-tech,

0:43:390:43:43

but troubled city.

0:43:430:43:44

High water levels flood Trafalgar Square...

0:43:470:43:49

..monorails across Tower Bridge...

0:43:530:43:56

..and, hauntingly, the Houses of Parliament

0:44:010:44:04

adorned with a German eagle,

0:44:040:44:07

presumably following an invasion of Britain.

0:44:070:44:10

In 1940, London burned once more.

0:44:190:44:22

'You can have little understanding of the life in London these days.

0:44:260:44:31

'There are no words to describe the thing that is happening.

0:44:310:44:35

'The courage of the people,

0:44:350:44:36

'the flash and roar of the guns rolling down the streets,

0:44:360:44:39

'the stench of the air raid shelters.

0:44:390:44:42

'In three or four hours, people must get up and go to work,

0:44:420:44:45

'just as though they had a full night's rest,

0:44:450:44:48

'free from the rumble of guns, and the wonder that comes

0:44:480:44:51

'when they wake and listen in the dead hours of the night.'

0:44:510:44:54

Artist Henry Moore descended below the inferno

0:45:010:45:05

into a new level of hell...

0:45:050:45:06

..a subterranean world of Londoners more fearful than ever before.

0:45:080:45:13

Moore captured the raw human emotion of the Blitz.

0:45:150:45:19

'The only thing at all like those shelters that

0:45:210:45:24

'I could think of was the hold of the slave ship,

0:45:240:45:27

'on its way from Africa to America,

0:45:270:45:30

'full of hundreds and hundreds of people who were

0:45:300:45:33

'having things done to them that they were quite powerless to resist.

0:45:330:45:38

'They were a bit like the chorus in a Greek drama

0:45:480:45:51

'telling us about the violence we don't actually witness.'

0:45:510:45:55

'At dawn, Londoners come oozing out of the ground,

0:46:070:46:10

'tired and red-eyed and sleepy.

0:46:100:46:13

'The fires are dying down.

0:46:130:46:14

'I saw them turn into their own street to see

0:46:140:46:17

'if their house was still standing.'

0:46:170:46:20

'I wandered in the desolate ruins of my old squares, gashed, dismantled.

0:46:230:46:29

'The old red bricks, all white powder,

0:46:290:46:32

'something like a builders' yard.

0:46:320:46:36

'Grey dirt and broken windows, sightseers,

0:46:360:46:40

'all that completeness ravished and demolished.'

0:46:400:46:44

As before, this was an opportunity to sweep away

0:46:500:46:55

the old and build London anew.

0:46:550:46:57

Throughout the history of London,

0:47:030:47:05

the building of tall towers had been proposed.

0:47:050:47:08

As early as 1852,

0:47:110:47:13

a plan to reconstruct the Crystal Palace as a 1,000-foot tower

0:47:130:47:17

might have given us the world's first skyscraper.

0:47:170:47:20

These are 1866 designs for towers on the Embankment...

0:47:280:47:32

..this, the design for a monumental tower in Westminster in 1904.

0:47:410:47:45

In 1918, a new tower was proposed

0:47:500:47:52

for Selfridges department store in Oxford Street.

0:47:520:47:56

And in 1951...

0:48:040:48:06

..this Orwellian plan proposed to transform London's Southbank.

0:48:090:48:15

But in 1956,

0:48:170:48:19

St Paul's Cathedral was still the tallest building in London.

0:48:190:48:23

That year, the government suspended

0:48:230:48:27

the 1888 London Building Act

0:48:270:48:29

restricting the height of buildings to 100 feet,

0:48:290:48:33

the height of a fireman's ladder.

0:48:330:48:36

The decision would transform the city's skyline.

0:48:360:48:41

But the new order of modernism was not to every taste.

0:48:410:48:46

For the poet John Betjeman,

0:48:530:48:55

it wasn't the future of London that inspired.

0:48:550:48:58

It was the past.

0:48:580:49:00

'Snow falls in the buffet of Aldersgate Station,

0:49:090:49:13

'soot hangs in the tunnel in clouds of steam.

0:49:130:49:17

'City of London, before the next desecration,

0:49:170:49:21

'let your steepled forest of churches be my theme.

0:49:210:49:25

'Sunday silence with every street a dead street,

0:49:260:49:31

'alley and courtyard empty and cobbled mews.

0:49:310:49:35

'Till tingle tang the bell of Mildred's Bread Street

0:49:350:49:39

'summoned the sermon taster to high box views

0:49:390:49:43

'and neighbouring towers and spirelets joined the ringing

0:49:430:49:47

'with answering echoes from heavy commercial walls

0:49:470:49:50

'till all were drowned as the sailing clouds

0:49:500:49:53

'went singing on the roaring flood of a 12-voiced peel from Paul's.

0:49:530:49:58

'Snow falls in the buffet of Aldersgate Station,

0:50:000:50:04

'toiling and dimmed from Moorgate Street past the train.

0:50:040:50:09

'For us of the steam and the gas light, the lost generation,

0:50:090:50:13

'the new white cliffs of the city are built in vain.'

0:50:130:50:17

Over the next few decades,

0:50:340:50:36

much of 18th and 19th-century London came under attack.

0:50:360:50:40

Tower blocks, housing estates, ring roads

0:50:410:50:45

and highways transformed London into a sometimes brutal modern city.

0:50:450:50:49

But it was no less inspirational to artists.

0:50:520:50:55

Writer J G Ballard was in thrall to a concrete world of the future.

0:50:550:51:01

In it were stories, possibilities, new ways of looking at the world.

0:51:010:51:05

'I was moving through the terrain of inner urban sprawl,

0:51:120:51:16

'a geography of sensory deprivation.

0:51:160:51:19

'A zone of dual carriageways

0:51:190:51:21

'and petrol stations,

0:51:210:51:23

'business parks and signposts to Heathrow.

0:51:230:51:27

'CCTV cameras crouched over warehouse gates.

0:51:270:51:32

'The traffic signals presided like small-minded deities

0:51:320:51:36

'over their deserted crossroads,

0:51:360:51:38

'the entire defensive landscape

0:51:380:51:41

'was waiting for a crime to be committed.'

0:51:410:51:43

# If I had my life to live over

0:51:470:51:55

# I would still do the same things again

0:51:550:52:02

# I would still like to roam

0:52:020:52:05

# To the place I call home

0:52:050:52:09

# Where memories will ever remain

0:52:090:52:15

# I'll meet you when school days are over

0:52:150:52:21

# And we'll stroll down the lane we once knew

0:52:210:52:27

# If I had my life to live over again

0:52:270:52:35

# I would still fall in love with you. #

0:52:350:52:41

I'm a Londoner and I was born in Blackfriars in 1928.

0:52:430:52:49

My husband helped to build Thamesmead. He was an erector.

0:52:510:52:54

I used to come down here and see him, like, on a Friday,

0:52:540:52:58

and then my daughter moved down here

0:52:580:53:00

and then I used to come down every weekend to see her

0:53:000:53:03

and it was lovely, really lovely.

0:53:030:53:07

I didn't think it was ugly.

0:53:070:53:09

The kids were in the paddling pool, playing.

0:53:110:53:13

I still like it.

0:53:170:53:19

I still like it,

0:53:200:53:22

but it's just deteriorating.

0:53:220:53:25

I'd love to live at the top of one of those.

0:53:350:53:38

That's where I'd like to live.

0:53:380:53:40

Over the last half-century, London has become a city of towers,

0:53:430:53:48

towers to live in and towers to work in.

0:53:480:53:51

And, once more, a new symbol of London would rise out of

0:53:570:54:01

a moment of destruction in the heart of the old city.

0:54:010:54:04

'A 15-year-old girl was one of two people killed last night

0:54:140:54:18

'by a terrorist car bomb in central London. 91 were injured.'

0:54:180:54:22

'A car bomb went off in a vehicle parked outside

0:54:220:54:25

'a row of banks in the St Mary Axe area of the city.

0:54:250:54:27

'Three people are reported to have been killed.'

0:54:270:54:30

'..the biggest bombs ever planted on the British mainland caused

0:54:300:54:33

'millions of pounds worth of damage. Buildings may have to be demolished.

0:54:330:54:36

'Windows were shattered hundreds of yards away.'

0:54:360:54:39

The old Baltic Exchange was beyond repair

0:54:390:54:41

and something would have to built in its place.

0:54:410:54:44

Architect Norman Foster's building at 30 St Mary Axe,

0:54:560:55:00

now affectionately known as The Gherkin, was completed in 2003.

0:55:000:55:05

It has become a beacon for the age,

0:55:100:55:13

the latest image of a city ever changing.

0:55:130:55:17

I lived at 21 Petticoat Tower, Petticoat Square Estate.

0:55:250:55:29

I've lived in the area of Petticoat Lane all my life

0:55:330:55:37

and have loved living in the area,

0:55:370:55:41

seen so many things coming and going,

0:55:410:55:45

and have grown up alongside of what's going on.

0:55:450:55:49

I've seen many changes from living up so high.

0:55:510:55:55

The city has to live and breathe.

0:55:550:56:00

And, by that, I mean the city is the lifeblood

0:56:000:56:06

and what goes on here in the city, in these office blocks...

0:56:060:56:11

..some people might refer to then as monstrosities but they're not.

0:56:120:56:20

Someone like myself, that takes every opportunity of looking out,

0:56:200:56:24

I can only see beauty there.

0:56:240:56:27

That, to me, is what being a Londoner's all about.

0:56:300:56:33

Knowing that you're coming into work

0:56:540:56:56

and be confronted with this view is always a pleasure.

0:56:560:57:02

I lost my wife two years ago.

0:57:140:57:15

I used to love taking my wife

0:57:170:57:19

to the places that I'd been to that she'd heard me talk about,

0:57:190:57:23

to the Gherkin, to the wibbly-wobbly bridge,

0:57:230:57:26

cos that was her nature. She wanted to see what was going on.

0:57:260:57:30

Every street, virtually every square of pavement has got

0:57:300:57:34

an imprint of my wife on it and so it makes driving in London

0:57:340:57:38

virtually a spiritual experience, every day I go out.

0:57:380:57:41

How I find London, it is a beautiful mess.

0:57:470:57:51

You've got these really modern buildings

0:57:530:57:56

next to very, very old ones

0:57:560:57:58

that survived the Second World War and that is London, you know,

0:57:580:58:02

all those bits and pieces thrown all over the shop.

0:58:020:58:05

I think it says about who we are as people.

0:58:080:58:11

You can turn a corner and you feel lost.

0:58:110:58:14

But it doesn't mean you can't find your way out of it.

0:58:160:58:19

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0:58:440:58:48

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