David Bailey: Four Beats to the Bar and No Cheating


David Bailey: Four Beats to the Bar and No Cheating

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Transcript


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This programme contains very strong language.

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In the early '60s, when you shot for Vogue magazine,

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they never put the photographer's name.

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They only put your surname, they only put Bailey or Beaton or Avedon.

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If somebody said David, I wouldn't turn around.

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Kind of nice name, Bailey.

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Maybe I should change my name to Bailey Bailey.

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Catherine was funny about Bailey. Deneuve.

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She always said, "Why are you called Belly?"

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She said, "I thought a belly was a belly."

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By revolutionising the image of women

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almost overnight in the early '60s, Bailey became a legend.

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His own image as bad boy and womaniser

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meant Bailey was anything but a docile servant of the system.

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What do you say to people when you photograph them?

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I coo like a bloody dove.

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I think you just sit there.

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For over half a century, Bailey has travelled the world,

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often in the company of the most beautiful women.

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Alternately photographer, filmmaker, publisher, painter or sculptor.

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Yeah, be nothing. Do nothing.

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You look beautiful.

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OK. Just lay back.

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Yeah. You can put an arm up if you like. Don't worry about the clothes.

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Yeah, just... That's perfect. Look how beautiful you look.

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That's it, that's all I want.

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Always eager to experiment,

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as if to escape the trap fashion laid for him,

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Bailey has made his life a picturesque score,

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an enigmatic exchange with women that gives him

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the hope of surprising himself every day that dawns.

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I don't mind if you put your hand in your hair and sort of...

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Make a story, yeah?

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-Anything you like. Whatever you do.

-So we start with something and then...

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Yeah. I don't take many. Only do about... I don't do many.

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Don't do click, click, click, click, click.

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'The photographer that's closest to me,'

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I think, is a French photographer.

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I guess it's 1860s. Nadar, the French photographer.

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And when I look at his pictures, I see my own pictures.

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He knew what I know, or I know what he knew. Whatever.

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Maybe up from your ear, look.

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And then just tell me a story.

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Lover's left you, yeah? That is the story.

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'When I photograph people, directly they come through the door,

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'I'm already photographing them.

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'You watch the way they move and their personality.

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'Which side of their face they prefer. All sorts of things.

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'What kind of mood they're in.

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'And it's like a Zen thing.

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'If they're in a bad mood, then you encourage the bad mood.

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'Then you get something from the picture.

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'And if they're in a good mood, you encourage the good mood.'

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It's your hair.

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Stay like that.

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'That's why I like my pictures, cos you can't really copy what I do

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'because I don't do anything.

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'I just do it with dialogue, talking to people.'

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That hand is too ugly like that. Maybe just pull your scarf up.

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HE SHOUTS

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'I'm not looking for anything, I'm looking for that person.

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'I'm looking for what they have, I'm not looking... I know what I have.

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'I know my limitations, but I want to get these people to make them

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'look like they have no limitations.

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'It's from them, really.'

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Don't move, you look great. That's great, look at me again like that.

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'It's like being a vampire. I want to capture their personality.'

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OK, I think we've got it. OK. Finished. You were great, yeah.

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No, no! HE LAUGHS

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Yeah, a style is really dangerous. You try to avoid it.

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It's like being political.

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When somebody says they're not political,

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I mean the fact they say they're not political, they're already political.

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So when I say I have no... I don't have any style...

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I do, but I don't want it. I don't want the style. My style is nothing.

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It's my way of making everything minimal.

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It sounds really pretentious! Making everything minimal. And...

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Just concentrating on the person and getting rid of everything else,

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it's just the person I want.

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That's the only thing I want, I don't want anything else,

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I don't want their hands, I don't want them doing silly things

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so they look like they're on the back of the book.

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So it makes it harder for me cos I just want...

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I want very sophisticated passport pictures.

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Which are quite hard to do!

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On these windswept Devon moors,

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Bailey likes to reconnect with his loved ones in his country house,

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far from the commotion of London.

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DOG BARKS

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Without concealing his admiration for surrealist poet Andre Breton,

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he invites us into his cabinet of curiosities.

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All our new pictures have been with skulls.

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Now we're doing skulls and dead flowers.

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-They're quite good, aren't they, Mark?

-They're great.

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I don't know, if you think about things too much, it becomes...

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You make them into a problem.

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Don't you think? Got to do it. Doesn't matter.

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Doesn't matter if people like it.

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As long as you're happy.

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Photography's all about death, really.

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A sad thing about photography because...

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When you look at pictures, old pictures, they're always dead.

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And you look at a painting, you don't think, she's dead.

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But you look at a photograph and you think, oh, she's dead.

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You look at them...

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It's the same with pornography, you know.

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Pornography works much better in photography

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than it does in...

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..painting or illustration because you know it actually happened.

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It's changed a bit now with digital.

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Because now people think, everyone's cheating. It's what Count Basie said.

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When they asked him what jazz was. We should say the same, what's art?

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Count Basie said it's four beats to the bar and no cheating.

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Which I try to make my pictures like that,

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four beats to the bar and no cheating.

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# Boom, boom, boom. #

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Back in his London studio,

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Bailey receives a visit from his friend Martin Harrison,

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an art critic with whom he collaborated on several books.

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They met in 1966, when Martin became Bailey's last-minute assistant on a Vogue shoot.

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Get away from the tongue.

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This is based on...

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You know when the Queen goes to New Zealand and she meets the Maoris

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and they poke their tongue out?

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I thought the tongue is the only...

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It's more sexual than any other piece of your body, really, because you taste with it...

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-Put it up things.

-Whatever, yeah.

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-Stick it in people's mouths.

-Whatever you do with it.

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'I would say an important thing about Bailey, in his childhood,'

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is his interest in birds.

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People make jokes about that because he stayed interested

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in what we called birds in England, of a long-legged variety.

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-Storks!

-Storks!

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Storks, it was.

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But I think identifying birds and knowing what species a bird is

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is actually part of this close looking again that he does.

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And they're fleeting images, they fly off.

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It's a fairly natural transition to me

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from studying birds to being the man who captures

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the fleeting moment of something that happens in the world, in life, with his camera.

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And it's a thing that only one's known about for 15 years

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or something and one didn't think of it with Bailey,

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but he was at school and because he was dyslexic,

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I'm sure he did know he was special, he was brilliant in some way.

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He knew he was brilliant and they told him he was the opposite,

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he was really stupid.

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And I think a lot of what he's achieved

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is borne out of the frustration of, "I will show them, then."

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And he had to work out his own way and I think it's highly significant.

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He's Britain's greatest photographer.

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It's a visual medium, he looks through here,

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he doesn't have to say words, the words are in the camera, in the image,

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the words can be written about by weird people like me with nothing better to do.

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So in a way I think it's important.

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It's like the photograph of him when he's in the Royal Air Force

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and he's probably still a teenager then, a little bit later on.

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And he's sitting there on his bed with a Picasso on the wall.

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People who come from an educated,

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artistic background would probably not get how important this is.

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How rare, how unique it was that someone like Bailey,

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from the east end of London, would have a Picasso by his bed.

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From the beginning, in a way, he found this possibility

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to be incredibly articulate via visual images.

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He found a way to condense and simplify and compress

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and get the message across really, really rapidly.

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It's like the Paul Valery thing,

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it's the grin without the cat, just the essence of the idea.

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I was an assistant to a fashion photographer called John French.

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He wasn't a great photographer, but he was a kind, nice man.

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I guess the thing I got from him was the white background

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because he used a white background a lot. I thought, this is smart.

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And then he helped me a lot to work for...

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He got me a job taking pictures for the Daily Express.

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And then Vogue saw the pictures and then they offered me a contract.

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So that's how... And I was only an assistant, I think, for 11 months with him.

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Homosexuality was sort of against the law then.

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And John French was homosexual and the art director, John Parsons, at Vogue, was homosexual.

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So there was a certain outsiderness about them, they were outside society.

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And I think in those days...

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..working class were sort of outside of society.

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And so I think they accepted me because I was an outsider like them.

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I think that kind of helped in the beginning.

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John Parsons, being homosexual,

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kind of liked the idea of someone from the working class

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working for Vogue.

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And I hope he liked my pictures as well, but it was...

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I think it was an outsider thing.

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Well, I mean, his early success in the '60s is still...

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You can think up explanations for it, but it is a phenomenon.

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Because for all that he was attractive

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and the fashion editors liked him, some of them anyway,

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he was unpolished

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and raw, but you know, Vogue...

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People think of fashion magazines as avant-garde.

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Well, of course, they're homes of conservatism.

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They're not remotely avant-garde, they're always behind everything.

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People have a misperception about that.

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In the '60s, there was this feeling of something happening in London,

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and Vogue, as usual, was behind, and it was ruled over

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by these old editors, "We can't have this on Vogue."

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It's like the old BBC or something,

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it was full of all sorts of covert censorship.

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So the fact that he did thrive there is really...

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It is quite a phenomenon because it's not totally easy to account for.

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Except that they knew they were falling behind,

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they knew that the average age of their readership was moving down

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as young people started, for the first time in England, to have money to spend.

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This is the usual commercial, market-driven thing.

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This is all about, as Bailey puts it, shifting frocks.

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It's a clothes-selling business.

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He understood about all of the coded language of the clothing as well.

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So when these fashion editors thought, who is this foul-mouthed young man

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who's just trying to get the model into bed?

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But he delivered the goods, you know.

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He gave them wonderful pictures. It is quite simple in one sense.

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He came out with this picture which was graphically much more dynamic than his competitors,

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the other young photographers who might have wanted to be number one in London and they weren't.

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Make that... Let me...

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No, who told you to move? Go back to where you were.

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Come on. Back to where you were. Good. And that little...hand. Yeah.

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Good. There. That's good. Stay like that.

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Bring this, slowly, bring this hand down. More, more, more.

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And put it there.

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Go on, lower down, on your thigh or whatever it's called. Good.

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That's good. Look at me. Don't twist away, just keep where you are.

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Good girl. Good. There. That's lovely.

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It's rather tender. I mean, this is that other side of Bailey.

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This is the birdwatching side.

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There is a more sensitive side to the beast.

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But I absolutely know for a fact,

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and I have it from contemporary witnesses who are probably now dead,

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that it was perceived...

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It genuinely was perceived in London as being something revolutionary.

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And I just think it's because first of all, she's not standing

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and she's not looking haughty.

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She's kneeling over in this way and there's a squirrel.

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You know, a stuffed squirrel, dead squirrel, rather awkward,

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it's like a Monty Python sketch, isn't it?

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But there it is.

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And that was perceived as undermining of a haughty,

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upper, upper middle-class way of approaching fashion,

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with women with their heads, you know, looking like this.

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It was indeed undermining of that.

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And it was a very bold move for this very young beginner.

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I'd already been playing with photography

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since I was about 11 or 12.

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I used to like the magic of the chemicals.

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It was nothing artistic, it was just...

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I just had my mother's Brownie.

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And then I saw this picture when I was about 17, I guess...

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of Cartier-Bresson, of these three or four, five ladies

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overlooking the Himalayas, I guess, or I don't know...

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Definitely in northern India by the looks of it.

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And it made such an impact, this picture,

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that I thought, there's more to photography than I realised.

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And I guess this picture showed me

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that photography could have the same depth as painting.

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And I'd never really considered it before.

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The first thing visual I remember were Hollywood movies.

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I loved the way they used to light things, even as a kid.

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I was fascinated by John Ford movies and Hitchcock, for sure.

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And then later, I liked very much the French new wave,

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and then the Italians, I liked very much Fellini,

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who suffocated you with bad taste!

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And then Visconti, that suffocated you with good taste!

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My biggest influence in a funny sort of way is Picasso.

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The thing that Picasso taught me was that there's no rules.

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He taught me that a circle doesn't have to be round.

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Which was a good lesson.

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OK, that's a great look. I love it! I love it! I love you, Samantha.

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Yeah, good. Chin up a bit.

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So many Samanthas in my life at the moment. Yeah, that's good. Yeah.

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Didn't you ever see High Society? Grace Kelly.

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She's called Samantha and she's so beautiful,

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and you look beautiful, so you're Samantha.

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-I thought you'd worked that one out!

-I'll be Samantha, then.

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I photographed her a couple of times. But she was a bitch. Good.

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You look devastating.

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OK. Still devastater.

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Good, wonderful. Yeah, still. That's beautiful, isn't it?

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Isn't she beautiful?

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Good, I love you, darling, you're great. Good. Don't move.

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In 1960, Bailey fell, professionally and personally,

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for the amazing photogenic potential of Jean Shrimpton,

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a fragile, slightly gauche young model.

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I think most talent is inborn.

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So Jean had an advantage because she was very beautiful.

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With Jean, she didn't scare people,

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like my wife or Christy Turlington there.

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She was...attractive to everybody.

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From dogs to intellectuals.

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She had one of those democratic... I don't know what you call it,

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beauties, in a way.

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She was a democratic beauty everybody could appreciate.

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Possibly, she could live next door.

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Some women are so beautiful, you can't believe they live next door.

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They live in some fantasy world.

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I mean, it was a two-way thing.

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She looked wonderful and people thought she did

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and people wanted her.

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So of course it was helpful to Bailey and I'm sure

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he got to do some things because a magazine wanted Jean Shrimpton.

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She was the face of the time, you know.

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One of the most sustained examples of that

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is his first ever big foreign trip for Vogue, to New York,

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which is where he really wanted to go because he was such a great jazz fan.

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Another one of his differences all through his life.

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And he really, for him, the bonus was to get to see

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some of the great jazz men in the clubs in New York that he'd admired.

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But he was with Jean Shrimpton, who he was in love with then.

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And his idea was just to photograph her on the streets of New York.

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By 1963, his style was getting settled into something

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more generally studio orientated, usually on a plain background,

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and the movement, the areas of it that broke it down from, say,

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icy perfection, would be movements of limbs subtly done,

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the way a leg protruded forward,

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graphic things that he understood very well and got very quickly.

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But always usually some contact between him and the girl,

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which I guess is through the eyes, from the woman, as you must say now.

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Which was sexually charged.

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I mean, someone else may interpret them differently,

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but they don't seem...

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There is a kind of respect, I think, a genuine one,

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for the woman in there, still.

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Well, come on, I haven't got anything more to say,

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I've said my lot twice.

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At the height of his fame, Bailey flirted briefly with film

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and planned an adaptation of A Clockwork Orange

0:23:160:23:19

with the Rolling Stones.

0:23:190:23:21

He fulfilled his movie making dream with GG Passion,

0:23:240:23:27

a very personal short film

0:23:270:23:29

inspired by Cocteau's The Blood Of A Poet,

0:23:290:23:32

that tells the story of a rock star chased to his death.

0:23:320:23:35

SCREAMING

0:23:350:23:37

Quite naturally,

0:23:480:23:50

Bailey found himself at the heart of the British cultural revolution

0:23:500:23:54

while keeping his distance from the new celebrity lifestyle.

0:23:540:23:57

Except for his friendship with Mick Jagger,

0:24:020:24:05

his relationship with the stars of swinging London

0:24:050:24:08

rarely went beyond an intense half-hour's work in his studio.

0:24:080:24:13

So when his Box Of Pin-Ups came out, we were back to this

0:24:250:24:29

kind of old British, probably high Tory, moral panic, you know.

0:24:290:24:35

It was only a year or so since the Lady Chatterley trials,

0:24:350:24:39

another one of our famous events, which is a kind of marker

0:24:390:24:46

of an old order gradually being removed, in a way.

0:24:460:24:52

And old censorships and so on.

0:24:520:24:54

And there was indeed a lot of reaction at the time

0:24:570:25:00

because you had royalty in the shape of Lord Snowdon,

0:25:000:25:04

and some of our major criminals, the Kray brothers, in the same book.

0:25:040:25:09

I spent two weeks with them, but then we couldn't use the pictures

0:25:130:25:17

because there was a court case so we had to change the story.

0:25:170:25:20

That's as simple as that, really.

0:25:200:25:22

They were just a part of my youth, really, because people didn't see

0:25:220:25:27

much difference between the police or the gangsters in the East End.

0:25:270:25:30

They were pretty much the same thing.

0:25:300:25:33

Bailey takes us,

0:25:380:25:39

along with his assistant Mark and daughter Paloma,

0:25:390:25:42

to the street in London's East End

0:25:420:25:44

where he grew up, now a Bangladeshi neighbourhood.

0:25:440:25:47

It's where I spent my joyous childhood.

0:25:550:25:58

'When I was that big, I suppose, six,

0:26:000:26:05

'I went to see Bambi

0:26:050:26:08

'and small cartoons in the cinema.

0:26:080:26:11

'And then one of Hitler's V2 rockets destroyed the cinema at Upton Park.

0:26:110:26:17

'From that moment on, I thought Hitler had killed Bambi

0:26:170:26:20

'and Mickey Mouse and everybody.'

0:26:200:26:22

This was all bombed flat. These are all bombed buildings.

0:26:220:26:27

He was the devil.

0:26:420:26:44

When I was bad, they didn't say the devil would get you

0:26:440:26:47

or the bogeyman would get you, they said Hitler will get you.

0:26:470:26:50

I thought, "Who is this Hitler guy?"

0:26:500:26:53

He was just a name.

0:26:540:26:56

I didn't realise he was one of the biggest arseholes of all time.

0:26:560:27:00

That's where my mum used to look out the window.

0:27:000:27:04

That's where I spent most of the war, down that hole.

0:27:040:27:07

-Whose was this room?

-That was my mother's bedroom.

-OK.

0:27:080:27:12

And you were on the top floor at the back?

0:27:120:27:14

When we first moved in, we only had the ground floor.

0:27:140:27:17

This wall was all broken down. That wall wasn't there.

0:27:170:27:20

-So the cellar where you did your black and white processing, scratched it against the wall.

-Yeah.

0:27:200:27:25

And I stole those angel wings from a church. And I hid them down there.

0:27:250:27:28

-They're probably still down there.

-You stole from a church?

-Well, it was bombed.

0:27:280:27:33

Later, I tried to photograph me looking like Chet Baker,

0:27:330:27:38

when I was about 16, because I wanted to look like Chet Baker.

0:27:380:27:41

Because Chet Baker was my hero. Chet Baker and James Dean, I guess.

0:27:420:27:46

I think he was charming, my father, I didn't know him that much.

0:27:510:27:54

I never saw him that much, he was always scallywagging,

0:27:550:27:59

up to no good, I think, with women.

0:27:590:28:01

And my mother was kind of like a tough old gypsy.

0:28:020:28:05

She even looked like a gypsy.

0:28:050:28:07

1965.

0:28:190:28:20

French actress Catherine Deneuve marries David Bailey in London.

0:28:200:28:24

It's a clear exaggeration to portray Bailey as a Pygmalion-type figure

0:31:330:31:37

or to claim that women made him.

0:31:370:31:39

However, Antonioni drew heavily on his life to create the character

0:31:390:31:44

of fashion photographer Thomas, who is dragged into a murder case.

0:31:440:31:47

I didn't know Antonioni.

0:31:470:31:49

It was, er...

0:31:490:31:50

It wasn't Antonioni's idea to do Blow-Up, it was Carlo Ponti.

0:31:520:31:56

Carlo Ponti sent two people to see me at Vogue studios.

0:31:570:32:01

I was 24, or something, and he said, "These two Italian men came in, they looked like Mafia.

0:32:020:32:07

They said, "Do you want to make a movie?" I said, "Yeah, sure.

0:32:100:32:12

"What are we doing, the remake of Citizen Kane?"

0:32:120:32:16

They said, "No, do you want to make a movie about a photographer?" I said, "Sure."

0:32:180:32:23

At that age you do anything, you remake Ivan The Terrible.

0:32:230:32:27

And, er...

0:32:270:32:28

We talked in their bad English

0:32:280:32:32

and they said about the way I dressed.

0:32:320:32:36

I said, "What's the way I dress got anything to do with it?"

0:32:360:32:39

Then I realised they wanted me to be in the movie to play the part.

0:32:390:32:42

I said, "No, you must be crazy!"

0:32:420:32:45

I can't remember a telephone number the right way round, let alone do a dialogue of script.

0:32:450:32:51

So, that was the end of that.

0:32:520:32:54

I didn't know how they knew so many details in Blow-Up

0:33:040:33:08

You know, how they knew I paid £8 for the propeller.

0:33:080:33:10

I've still got the propeller, it's in the country in the store room.

0:33:100:33:14

And, ten years after Blow-Up I was doing a book with, er...

0:33:140:33:19

Box Of Pin-ups with Francis Wyndham, journalist for the Sunday Times.

0:33:200:33:25

He was drinking and he said, "Bailey, I've got a confession."

0:33:250:33:29

He said, "I wrote the 200-page synopsis for Antonioni."

0:33:290:33:32

That suddenly cleared it up. I said, "Why didn't you tell me before?"

0:33:320:33:36

He said he was too embarrassed. I said, "I don't care. I mean, you make a few bob, good luck to you."

0:33:360:33:41

I don't care who wrote it. That's the story, really, not very interesting.

0:33:410:33:46

Let's play tennis.

0:33:470:33:48

LAUGHTER

0:33:480:33:50

If Blow-Up prefigured the disillusionment of the late '60s

0:33:560:34:00

Bailey echoed it, in a way, in a new series of portraits

0:34:000:34:03

published under the title, Goodbye Baby And Amen.

0:34:030:34:07

Next he launched into a series of documentaries.

0:34:200:34:23

That's marvellous, Penelope, just like that.

0:34:260:34:29

Good, your fingers straighter.

0:34:290:34:31

I want you to look ecstatic. You must be inspired.

0:34:310:34:35

Don't smile, no, very serious.

0:34:350:34:37

What I like about Cecil, he's got a great deal of the outrageous in him.

0:34:370:34:42

I mean, he insists on the outrageous.

0:34:420:34:44

He likes all the limits, doesn't he?

0:34:440:34:47

-Well, he certainly goes to extremes.

-Yes.

0:34:470:34:50

He can be extremely kind or extremely rude.

0:34:500:34:53

He's very positive, he's not a negative person.

0:34:530:34:55

He loves. It's very easy for him to love.

0:34:550:34:57

He positively loves you, or he positively hates you.

0:34:570:35:00

LAUGHTER

0:35:040:35:06

I don't want to be interviewed about my private life.

0:35:060:35:09

Oh, God.

0:35:090:35:11

-What do you want to be asked? What do you like me to ask you?

-Nothing.

0:35:110:35:14

If you could change anything in your life, would you change anything, the way you've lived?

0:35:140:35:19

No, it's too late now to change anything in my life.

0:35:200:35:23

More move...

0:35:230:35:25

CAMERA CLICKS

0:35:250:35:26

No, it's enough, I think.

0:35:340:35:35

That's not enough.

0:35:350:35:37

I mean, when you were say six or seven, did you have fantasies?

0:35:370:35:42

No, when I was more twenty.

0:35:420:35:44

LAUGHTER

0:35:440:35:46

But, did you have fantasies, there's some questions here.

0:35:470:35:50

What were your fantasies when you were a child?

0:35:500:35:52

Was Elvis Presley your fantasy?

0:35:520:35:55

No, I used to play The Doors.

0:35:550:35:56

-Hello?

-Andy, it's me.

0:35:580:36:01

-Hi.

-What's Pop Art?

0:36:010:36:03

I want to try and ask you.

0:36:050:36:07

What is it?

0:36:070:36:09

I'm very confused.

0:36:090:36:11

In the future, everyone will be world-famous for 15 minutes.

0:36:110:36:16

Why do you keep your clothes on?

0:36:160:36:18

Erm, I'm afraid to look at my scars,

0:36:190:36:21

so I just jump into bed.

0:36:210:36:24

-Your scars?

-Yeah.

0:36:240:36:26

Can we talk about your scars?

0:36:260:36:28

Oh, yeah.

0:36:280:36:30

-That was from when you got shot, your accident?

-Yeah.

0:36:300:36:34

It must have been awful.

0:36:340:36:36

Oh no, I look like a Dior dress.

0:36:360:36:39

He's gone on his super go, hasn't he?

0:36:410:36:43

-They speak to people by radio, don't they?

-Yeah.

0:36:430:36:47

Like the bike taxis in London.

0:36:470:36:49

Look at that cloud, Mark, it's sort of perfect.

0:36:490:36:52

-Good line.

-Yeah, it's only good for live action. It's not good for stills.

-No.

0:36:520:36:57

Look... Perfect.

0:36:570:36:59

John Ford would have liked that.

0:36:590:37:01

With a soul of a reporter, whose worst fear is boredom

0:37:010:37:05

and going through the motions in studio,

0:37:050:37:07

Bailey has travelled the world since the early '70s,

0:37:070:37:10

like an explorer of the often tragic human condition.

0:37:100:37:14

If I ever go to places like that, to do pictures, I try to do them straight away

0:37:200:37:24

because, after a week there, you kind of get used to things.

0:37:240:37:28

It's er...

0:37:280:37:29

The moment I'm off the plane...

0:37:290:37:32

Usually the most interesting images are the ones you do immediately

0:37:320:37:37

because you haven't been tamed by what you're seeing,

0:37:370:37:43

it's still all new and "why".

0:37:430:37:45

-You see this pony?

-Yeah.

0:37:480:37:52

-It's the remains of the pit ponies.

-Yeah.

0:37:520:37:54

-Where they've got the short, stumpy, little legs.

-Oh, I see.

0:37:540:37:57

He's not a Dartmoor pony.

0:37:570:37:58

-No, I think they're going to disappear, aren't they?

-Mmm.

0:37:580:38:01

You get inspiration from things that are not your thing.

0:38:040:38:09

It's good to move out our your own environment, sometimes.

0:38:090:38:13

We have done documentary things, but it's usually for charity.

0:38:140:38:17

It's a bit odd going somewhere to be paid to go and photograph starving people.

0:38:180:38:22

I did it for Mother Teresa in India.

0:38:240:38:26

I did it for UNESCO, or somebody, in Ethiopia.

0:38:260:38:29

I did it in the Sudan.

0:38:300:38:32

Depressing pictures...

0:38:340:38:36

But...

0:38:360:38:38

You know, dying babies and we went back in the afternoon and they were dead.

0:38:380:38:41

But, it's er...

0:38:410:38:43

I never charge for those pictures.

0:38:430:38:47

You know, somebody standing next to me would get the same picture.

0:38:470:38:51

So, it's just documentation, really.

0:38:510:38:53

Everything in life bounces off, doesn't it?

0:38:570:38:59

It's sort of everything, it's everything...

0:38:590:39:02

The more you see, the more you accumulate.

0:39:020:39:05

Spring 2010...

0:39:070:39:09

Working for a charity, Bailey flies out on a mission with British troops stationed in Afghanistan.

0:39:090:39:14

The reason I did the soldiers, and the reason I wanted to do the charity,

0:39:170:39:21

one of the reasons was that it was very personal.

0:39:210:39:23

I've got two sons, who are more or less that age, or becoming that age.

0:39:230:39:28

One is the age and one's becoming that age, that...

0:39:280:39:31

Could be sent there to fight and be maimed.

0:39:330:39:36

'I thought it was...

0:39:380:39:40

'as much as I'm against wars, I think it's a worthwhile thing

0:39:400:39:44

'to do anything you can to help those guys.

0:39:440:39:46

'They like the idea that I'd been in the air force.

0:39:490:39:52

'You know, it gave me a kind of...

0:39:520:39:54

'It lets you join the club, so to speak.'

0:39:540:39:56

Yeah.

0:39:570:39:59

Yeah, and this is the only flower I think I saw in Afghanistan.

0:40:000:40:06

Beautiful.

0:40:060:40:07

Um, Paloma?

0:40:090:40:10

Can you bring down the box of bones?

0:40:120:40:13

Bones?

0:40:130:40:15

They're the bones with the skull in it. They're upstairs in the thing.

0:40:150:40:18

They're at the top.

0:40:180:40:20

'My only problem is the race against death.

0:40:230:40:26

'You know, fucking... I got the reaper on my back all the time.'

0:40:260:40:31

'They say all the best things are accidents.

0:40:440:40:47

'How can you be creative? You have to have an accident.

0:40:490:40:52

'It's the accident that's exciting.

0:40:580:41:01

'I suppose, in a way, you can set up the accident

0:41:030:41:07

'and then hope it'll happen.'

0:41:070:41:09

We need some a lizard, really, on that.

0:41:170:41:20

'I think if the photographer's good,

0:41:200:41:22

'the reality is in the photographer's mind.

0:41:220:41:27

'If it's just someone going "Snap!" it's just a document, it's not even...

0:41:270:41:31

'The other day, I suddenly realised I'd taken a picture that looked like an Irving Penn picture.

0:41:320:41:36

'It was just putting a skull on top of a skull

0:41:360:41:39

'and I actually did it to imitate a John Lennon picture

0:41:390:41:43

'of John Lennon and Paul McCartney, with the head above it,

0:41:430:41:46

'and I thought if I put the skull on top of the skull,

0:41:460:41:49

'it'll look like John and Paul.'

0:41:490:41:51

There you go, Joe. It's gone again.

0:41:510:41:54

'So it's odd how sometimes you arrive at the same destination without...

0:41:540:42:01

'Not starting from the same point or not starting from anywhere.'

0:42:010:42:05

It looks great. It's definitely death.

0:42:070:42:10

It doesn't look like anything I've seen before either, either.

0:42:110:42:14

It's not harping back to any kind of... I meant the last picture.

0:42:140:42:18

It's not harping back to any kind of reference.

0:42:180:42:21

It's completely photography.

0:42:210:42:23

'It's all about the past, really. The flowers die.

0:42:250:42:28

'The skulls become nature's sculptures.

0:42:290:42:32

'That's the ultimate sculpture, in the end.

0:42:320:42:35

'It's the skull or skeleton of birds or people.

0:42:350:42:38

'So they're kind of portraits of skulls, in a way.'

0:42:400:42:44

Back once more to his London studio,

0:42:510:42:53

a refuge far removed from the pain of the world

0:42:530:42:55

where Bailey lives and works, surrounded by the people he loves,

0:42:550:42:58

this morning, his friend Jerry Hall pays him a visit.

0:42:580:43:02

I love that but I'd never seen that.

0:43:020:43:05

Oh, that was for a charity I did.

0:43:050:43:07

-That's so lovely.

-Mickey Mouse as Hitler.

0:43:070:43:09

JERRY LAUGHS

0:43:090:43:11

No, it was Charlie Chaplin.

0:43:110:43:12

No, it was Hitler, but I pretended it was Charlie Chaplin.

0:43:120:43:16

-You started with me when you were 16, you bitch.

-I know. I know.

0:43:160:43:19

-But you know...

-Were you a virgin?

0:43:190:43:21

David, don't you remember?

0:43:230:43:25

HE LAUGHS

0:43:250:43:26

Women are strange animals.

0:43:260:43:28

SHE LAUGHS

0:43:280:43:30

Yeah.

0:43:300:43:32

Still trying to work it out.

0:43:320:43:34

I think you got lucky this time.

0:43:370:43:39

-I was lucky every time.

-I know.

-They were all great.

0:43:400:43:43

I know, but this one's lasted an awful long time.

0:43:430:43:46

-Yeah, lucky girl.

-And three children. Fantastic.

0:43:460:43:51

I have a great time working with him. I love working with him.

0:43:510:43:54

He makes me laugh. The day goes by very nicely. It's pleasant.

0:43:540:43:58

Thing about Bailey is he's not someone...

0:43:580:44:01

you know, he has dyslexia, so he's not very articulate.

0:44:010:44:05

It's not about words, it's about instinct and it's about his vision.

0:44:050:44:10

So he works more, you know, in watching, paying close attention.

0:44:100:44:16

And when he's looking at you, you feel what he's looking,

0:44:160:44:21

you feel more beautiful, more sexy.

0:44:210:44:24

You start to feel, you know,

0:44:240:44:26

it's a very intuitive business, being photographed, you know.

0:44:260:44:30

It's not something you can talk and say,

0:44:300:44:32

"OK, do this, do that,"

0:44:320:44:34

because it's a different part of your brain, you know.

0:44:340:44:38

It's the magic part. And Bailey's very good at that.

0:44:380:44:42

There's a kind of silence,

0:44:420:44:44

a kind of silent language that goes on

0:44:440:44:47

between a model and a photographer, you know.

0:44:470:44:51

You know, it's like when someone loves you.

0:44:530:44:56

It brings out the best in you.

0:44:560:44:59

You know, when you feel the look of someone who loves you,

0:44:590:45:03

you just sort of blossom, you know.

0:45:030:45:06

And I think that happens with a great photographer, with Bailey.

0:45:060:45:10

I think he...he adores women, and he adores beauty,

0:45:100:45:13

and I think he admires it so much that he brings it out in you.

0:45:130:45:17

That's my ex-wife, one of my ex-wives. That's Marie Helvin.

0:45:170:45:22

Angelica.

0:45:230:45:25

It's beautiful, that picture.

0:45:260:45:28

It's beautiful.

0:45:280:45:30

'Women...'

0:45:320:45:33

Jean Shrimpton.

0:45:330:45:35

'..have changed my life.'

0:45:350:45:38

Which is an obvious thing to say, but somehow...different...

0:45:380:45:42

I can see how my photography changed with different women. It's odd.

0:45:420:45:47

Jerry with Helmut.

0:45:470:45:49

Trying to put on her shoes. Really odd.

0:45:500:45:53

'I think if you think too much about these things,

0:45:530:45:55

'you become too self-conscious, so you've got to avoid that.

0:45:550:45:58

'As you get older, you don't care anyway. Who cares?'

0:45:580:46:01

And my mum.

0:46:010:46:03

I don't know, I think it's very flattering to be a muse

0:46:070:46:10

to a great photographer or a great artist.

0:46:100:46:13

I think it's wonderful. Kind of magical.

0:46:130:46:16

Makes you immortal, in some way.

0:46:170:46:20

Come on, Kate.

0:46:260:46:27

She's so beautiful, Kate Moss, isn't she?

0:46:320:46:35

She's so beautiful without being beautiful. It's amazing.

0:46:360:46:39

She's just...beautiful.

0:46:390:46:42

She's the only one that's like Jean Shrimpton.

0:46:420:46:45

Only known two models that were like this.

0:46:450:46:48

Jean Shrimpton and Kate Moss.

0:46:480:46:51

They're unique.

0:46:510:46:52

You can't understand it. I can't understand it.

0:46:520:46:54

It's like, there's nothing special about the Mona Lisa but, you know,

0:46:560:47:01

it's a painting, but it's got some...something you can't explain.

0:47:010:47:05

You know, why?

0:47:060:47:08

I'm sort of lucky cos...

0:47:120:47:14

..in my personal life...

0:47:160:47:18

I've got such a great wife.

0:47:180:47:20

She's the opposite to a midget. She's a bit too tall, in fact.

0:47:220:47:25

She's the best thing that ever happened to me.

0:47:270:47:29

Maybe.

0:47:310:47:32

Besides being born.

0:47:320:47:34

The whatsit tree should be all right. The Magnolia.

0:47:340:47:38

Mark, have you seen the Magnolia?

0:47:400:47:42

'She's a beauty in the classical sense. She's a sort of...

0:47:440:47:48

'Roman beauty, really.

0:47:480:47:49

'I mean, the Sistine Chapel, I mean the Sistine Chapel Museum of busts,

0:47:520:47:56

'she's got the long neck and the big eyes, the smallish head.

0:47:560:48:02

'So she just looks like one of those Roman busts to me, really.'

0:48:020:48:06

'And, um...

0:48:080:48:09

'something you can't put your finger on. A mystery,

0:48:130:48:16

'it's a mystery really.'

0:48:160:48:18

A bit silly doing this.

0:48:260:48:28

This is the graveyard.

0:48:280:48:30

Lots of dead people in here.

0:48:310:48:33

Welcome.

0:48:350:48:36

-That's her father who has turned into a...

-Magnolia tree.

-Magnolia tree.

0:48:370:48:42

-Called Star Wars.

-Is it?

-It's called Star Wars, yes!

0:48:420:48:46

I brought these back in that same helicopter, Mark.

0:48:480:48:51

The fern?

0:48:510:48:53

No, these great big Monterey pines.

0:48:530:48:55

Catherine, is David a good father?

0:48:570:48:59

I'm her husband, not her father.

0:49:010:49:04

LAUGHTER

0:49:040:49:06

Yes, he is.

0:49:060:49:08

SHE LAUGHS

0:49:080:49:09

As long as they do what they're told.

0:49:120:49:15

-You are, aren't you?

-I'm all right.

0:49:150:49:17

Ask if I'm a good lover, not if I'm a good father.

0:49:230:49:27

-IMITATES HIM:

-Ask if I'm a good lover.

-He's got his...

0:49:280:49:31

He's going to see it in a minute, isn't he?

0:49:310:49:34

DOG GROWLS

0:49:340:49:37

I think life's the main subject in Bailey's work.

0:49:370:49:40

He does everything.

0:49:400:49:42

His curiosity is endless.

0:49:450:49:49

God, the French Revolution

0:49:490:49:50

-would have loved your fucking neck, wouldn't they?

-Yeah(!)

0:49:500:49:53

LAUGHTER

0:49:530:49:56

He wants to know everything. He's, um...

0:49:560:50:00

Even if he goes to the doctor,

0:50:000:50:01

he won't talk about what's wrong with him.

0:50:010:50:03

He wants to know about the doctor. He wants to know everything about everyone.

0:50:030:50:07

The questions he asks,

0:50:070:50:09

and I'm always amazed people answer them!

0:50:090:50:11

SHE LAUGHS

0:50:110:50:12

I think because he has the curiosity, in a way, of a child.

0:50:120:50:16

And the way he asks questions,

0:50:160:50:19

they're not insulting, they're questions.

0:50:190:50:21

Just, like, "click, click" and then do it.

0:50:220:50:25

'In fact, the extraordinary is probably less exciting than the ordinary'

0:50:300:50:34

because you can always find something interesting in the ordinary.

0:50:340:50:37

People say, "Who's the most interesting person you've ever photographed?"

0:50:370:50:41

Everybody I photograph is interesting,

0:50:410:50:43

if you want to look into them and find out more about them.

0:50:430:50:47

'I mean, I'm just happy to wake up every day

0:50:470:50:49

'so I can find out something new.'

0:50:490:50:51

I love that.

0:50:510:50:53

That's like a cock in a cunt.

0:50:530:50:55

Fucking big cunt.

0:50:550:50:56

Good.

0:50:560:50:58

He has a way of making it seem flippant.

0:50:580:51:03

But one thing, he's not a joker.

0:51:030:51:05

He takes what he does very, very seriously.

0:51:050:51:08

And I think that's part of it.

0:51:080:51:11

And it's the dedication and working all the time, working at it.

0:51:110:51:14

And he's never satisfied. It's always a disappointment.

0:51:140:51:18

So he just wants to do better.

0:51:180:51:20

His disappointment doesn't make him give up,

0:51:200:51:24

it makes him do more.

0:51:240:51:25

Hang on, I'll tell you what I'll do.

0:51:250:51:27

Chin up.

0:51:270:51:29

Yeah? Perfect.

0:51:290:51:31

Now...

0:51:310:51:33

Really quick, quick.

0:51:330:51:35

SHUTTER RELEASES REPEATEDLY

0:51:350:51:39

You have to be really quick.

0:51:400:51:42

Change immediately. Immediately.

0:51:420:51:45

Look straight at me.

0:51:450:51:46

# When everything falls apart

0:51:480:51:52

# And all disappears

0:51:530:51:57

# And you hold me in your arms

0:51:580:52:02

# I'm... I'm whole again

0:52:020:52:06

# I want this feeling

0:52:060:52:12

# I want this feeling

0:52:120:52:17

# This feeling to linger on. #

0:52:170:52:21

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:52:210:52:23

E-mail: [email protected]

0:52:230:52:28

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