Chocolate Perfection with Michel Roux Jr


Chocolate Perfection with Michel Roux Jr

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Chocolate is not any old piece of confectionery.

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For a lot of us, it holds a very special place in our lives.

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You could say we're addicted to the stuff.

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It's no surprise the Aztecs called it "the food of gods".

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This is fun.

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'In its long and rich history, it's been a currency, a medicine,

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'an aphrodisiac and a sinful indulgence.

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'I'm going to see how chocolate is made

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'by some of the best chocolatiers in the world,

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'what their secrets are

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'and how they've married state-of-the-art technology

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'with craft traditions centuries old.

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'But this isn't just about revelling in this luxurious foodstuff.

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'I'm on a serious quest to create my own unique chocolate

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'to use in my cooking.'

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Ooh!

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'You won't be surprised that in my search for the best,

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-'I won't be touring the UK.'

-You cannot touch the product!

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No dipping your finger in. There's no touching the product.

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'And you can forget about Switzerland and Belgium.

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'For me, if you want chocolate to die for...'

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Ohhh!

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'..you have to head to France.'

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We've all got a childhood memory of chocolate,

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a favourite bar or a particularly delicious Easter egg.

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My memories are firmly associated with my mother, Monique,

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who makes heavenly chocolates.

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She started her working life in a Parisian chocolate shop.

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-It's with my mother, my sister.

-Mm. Wow.

-It's a nice photograph.

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-It's a beautiful photograph.

-Mm. I'm about 15 there.

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And that's the time that I went to the shop, doing the chocolate boxes.

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Eating chocolates. I can see there's...

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Actually, you're more rounded there than you are now, Mum!

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-It's my cheeks!

-You must have been on the chocolate diet then.

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-Yes, exactly.

-Yeah.

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And look, that, I'm only a year old, but I'm already chubby,

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so I must have had some chocolate in my...biberon, in my bottle.

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SHE LAUGHS

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We've always loved chocolate in the family.

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I remember you making me not so much chocolate brownies

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-but chocolate cake for birthdays.

-Yes, yes, always.

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And I used to put some - like everybody used to do -

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little Smarties all round!

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-Smarties?

-I know, I know!

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-You know, I've made some for you.

-Mm!

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-Right. Am I allowed?

-Absolutely!

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Oh, wow.

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Oh, wow.

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I don't remember making these before, because, you know, well,

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I've put some alcohol also inside!

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As you're a big boy now, you can have a little bit of...!

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-I was going to say, they are grown-up truffles.

-Yes, yes.

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I'm here in Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France,

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where I trained as a young chef many years ago.

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But I'm here to visit a chocolate dynasty,

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because it's as good a place as any to start.

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'The Bernachon chocolate-making dynasty

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'stretches back three generations, to the 1950s.

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'Founder Maurice Bernachon used to say

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'chocolate is not a simple treat or sweet

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'but an authentic gourmet food.

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'His grandson Philippe now guards his legacy.'

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Yay!

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Wow!

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'The chocolate-making machines at Bernachon

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'date back to the founding of the shop in the 1950s.

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'They believe in traditional methods here.

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'This one plays an essential part

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'in the creation of Bernachon's signature cake, Le President.

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'It was created in the 1970s

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'in honour of French President Valery Giscard d'Estaing.

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'This is not a job for an apprentice.

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'It takes years of practice to make this look so effortless.'

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Whoa.

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Bonjour!

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Mmmm!

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Wow.

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-Ah, oui.

-Voila.

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'Sugar is added to the cocoa beans, which have been ground and roasted

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'and then poured into this machine,

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'which slowly heats the mixture and grinds it into a gritty paste.

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'The next machine smoothes the paste out even more, refining the mix.

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'But it's still not chocolate as we know it.'

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Et ca, c'est ce qu'il va donner.

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Le fondant du chocolat, c'est grace a cette machine.

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'If I'm going to create my own chocolate blend,

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'I'm going to have to take on board what I've learnt at Bernachon.

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'Good chocolate is like wine.

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'Its taste is determined by where the cocoa beans come from,

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'how they're grown, roasted and combined.

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'There are so many factors

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'that contribute to making this complex foodstuff.'

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Wow!

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'Philippe's grandfather was right. Chocolate is NOT for beginners.

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'The history of chocolate goes back thousands of years,

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'to the ancient civilisations of Central America,

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'to the Olmecs, Mayans and Aztecs.

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'For these people, chocolate took the form

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'of an exclusive and sacred drink.

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'At the chocolate museum in Paris,

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'I'm going to make and taste chocolate Aztec-style

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'in the company of its director, Fabrice Stijnen.'

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Right, Fabrice, this is the Aztec recipe,

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so all these ingredients are here for the drink,

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-because it was a drink then.

-It was a drink.

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Actually, the history of cocoa and chocolate has

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more than 3,000 years of consumption as a beverage exclusively.

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So, we have the cocoa beans, of course, we have corn,

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-we have sapota kernels...

-Sa...

-Sapota kernels.

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-So it's a fruit, or a...?

-Actually, it's like an avocado.

-Ah!

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-But we use the kernel of it.

-Hm!

-OK?

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Here, we have some chilli, of course, pepper...

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'The ingredients of this Aztec recipe come down to us

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'from the Spanish monks and priests,

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'who minutely chronicled life in the New World.'

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..cocoa or achiote, and maybe - we are not sure about that -

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they used a little bit of honey.

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'These ancient societies would use a grinding stone called a metate

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'to crush the cocoa beans into a paste.'

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-You see, it starts to...

-Oh, yeah, yeah.

-..to...

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-to be ready here.

-Can I have a go?

-Sure you can.

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MICHEL CHUCKLES

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This is fun!

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Right...

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Right, here we go.

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-So, I mean, it's a kind of a mortar and pestle.

-A large one.

-Yeah!

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-FABRICE LAUGHS

-Hey, look!

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I've nearly made chocolate. It's nearly there.

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It definitely smells of chocolate.

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-Hopefully.

-It's recognisable as chocolate so far.

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'For the majority of Mayans and Aztecs,

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'chocolate was a drink only to be taken on special occasions,

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'to celebrate a birth, a marriage or mourn a death.

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'The nobility would drink it more frequently,

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'as they could afford the costly ingredients.

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'It was said that the Aztec emperor Montezuma sometimes drank

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'50 cups of chocolate each day,

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'though that seems a bit over the top.'

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So, the qualities of this drink

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-would be for invigorating and for health purposes.

-Yeah.

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Actually, this beverage was used for different purposes.

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The first, the main one, we know, it was to bring a boost for the body,

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and the other purpose of using this beverage

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was for making offerings to the gods.

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To get the favours of the gods, they had to make offerings to them.

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-Mm.

-So what did they offer to them?

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They offered what's the most valuable, like cocoa beans

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-and also blood.

-Blood?

-So they added some blood, too, in the beverage.

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-I'm not drinking this.

-No, but...

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We need to add some blood into it.

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So they used some tools to, well, slit their ear lobes,

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their tongue or the lips to spill some blood onto it.

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But today, we have a substitute that they also used.

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It was called the achiote. You used it before?

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'Achiote was a natural food colouring

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'produced by the fruit of a small tree.

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'You can tell how important

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'the cocoa bean was to these American civilisations

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'by the fact that it was used as money.

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'A 16-century Spanish chronicler

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'noted that a prostitute could be bought for ten cocoa beans,

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'while a slave was worth 100.'

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-There you have the molinillo.

-Molonio.

-Molinillo.

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-Molonio.

-Moli.

-Moli.

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-Moli-ni-llo.

-Molinillo.

-It's a Spanish word, OK?

-Yeah.

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-OK.

-And it's used for...

-Straight in.

-Yeah.

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Then you twist it in your hands.

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Oh! Look at that! Mm!

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I'm not sure what to expect from this, but here goes.

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Well, it's a bit bitty.

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Blood...

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It's a bit bitty, and it's very hot, as in spicy. My God!

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They liked it this way, actually.

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Oh!

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-You're going to be good for a full day. Maybe a week.

-Yeah.

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I can imagine after a drink of this, you'd face the world.

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No enemy would be strong enough.

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'If Montezuma drank 50 cups of this a day,

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'he must have had cast-iron bowels.'

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I think it smells a lot better than it tastes. A lot better.

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Mmm. Mmm.

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It wasn't long before the conquerors of the Aztecs,

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the Spanish conquistadors, took an interest in this rare foodstuff,

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and soon chocolate made the journey to Spain.

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Almost as soon as Europeans had discovered chocolate,

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they were speculating about whether it was good or bad for them.

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Many, like Parisian doctor Joseph Bachot,

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sang its praises. He wrote:

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This is one of my favourite chocolate shops,

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in the heart of Lyon.

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And whenever I come to Lyon, I always come here and stock up.

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It is just unbelievable. I mean, it's almost playful. I mean, look.

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Lipstick. Edible chocolate lipstick.

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But, made with real chocolate.

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Proper chocolate.

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Even CDs in the shape of chocolate.

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You can't play them, but you can eat them.

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Wonderful mixtures of oranges, figs, pralines,

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but what I absolutely adore with this shop

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is the name that they give to their chocolates.

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For example...

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"Barres Anti-Stress".

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You eat this, and all your stresses, all your worries go away.

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Here we have "Le Conquistador".

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This big monster here, and this is a particular chocolate

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that between myself and my daughter, we used to fight over this.

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Fight over this! It's such a delicious, delicious chocolate.

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It's more than a chocolate. It's a dessert.

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But then, there's also...

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Buchette Aphrodisiaque.

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Yes! I think I will take one of these home with me.

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When chocolate made the journey from the New World to the Old,

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it underwent a major transformation.

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So, the conquistadors arrived in Mexico, they tasted this

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wonderful food/drink, kind of, and took it back with them.

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-That's right, that's correct.

-They tweaked it?

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They made it a little bit more...

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Yet, they made some changes, of course.

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The one who brought back the recipe to the Spaniard king

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was Cortes, Hernan Cortes,

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and when he brought back this recipe, of course,

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it was not suiting the European tastes,

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of course, as we saw earlier.

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So we're going to make it up?

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So, we basically have kind of the same ingredients,

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but missing some, and adding new ones.

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So we are removing the chilli, we've still got some pepper,

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but in lower quantities, we have new spices.

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The most important one is sugar.

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They added sugar cane, and of course, for the European taste,

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they added hazelnuts, almonds, aniseed, cinnamon.

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Straightaway, this looks a lot more appealing to me.

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Appealing and interesting and palatable.

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So, a little bit of crushed-up clove, pepper and aniseed,

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-and into hot water. This was a hot drink?

-That's hot water.

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Yeah, yeah, we drink it hot.

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-Here we go.

-And we hold it still.

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-Still a bit of work to go into it, though.

-That's necessary.

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Better have servants to do that! Yeah, really.

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The servants that was preparing the beverage was called the Molina.

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"Molina."

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It was a woman as well.

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So there would be a dedicated person just for making the chocolate?

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They were very rich.

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-So here we have a beverage made out of water, basically.

-Yes.

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And the first writings about using milk are in the 1700s,

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so we still have to wait a little while.

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Let's try it. Yeah.

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-Quite good.

-Actually...

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You did well.

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It's not unpleasant. Maybe I could have put a bit more chocolate in.

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And sugar.

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-I like sweet.

-Yeah, yeah.

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But it's not too spicy. It's really different than before.

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Chocolate didn't stay long in Spain,

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despite the Spanish having a temporary monopoly

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of cocoa bean production through its American conquest.

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Soon, this new indulgence found its way

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to the very centre of European power.

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The Palais de Versailles is one of the most extraordinary

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royal courts of Europe,

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built in the 17th and 18th century by the Bourbon dynasty of France.

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Amongst all this extravagance and opulence, it really is no surprise

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that chocolate and the drinking of chocolate found its home here.

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Like his father, Louis XIV also married a Spanish princess,

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Marie Therese.

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Her love of chocolate meant it became a firm court favourite,

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served at all the parties given by the king.

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Chocolate was all about pleasure.

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Every type of pleasure.

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After I've sort of really had a nice fill of it,

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I just feel really relaxed.

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Almost like an orgasm.

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Chocolate and romance are inextricably linked together.

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I mean, after all, who doesn't like

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to give or receive a box of chocolates?

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It does warm the heart, but it is in this era

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that chocolate gained its reputation as an aphrodisiac.

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It stimulates the blood circulation, aids in lovemaking,

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especially to these naughty kings and mistresses.

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Given its reputation as an aphrodisiac,

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it's no wonder that drinking chocolate was a favourite

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of courtesans such as Madame Du Barry,

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the last official mistress of Louis XV.

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Ah!

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You can tell the importance of drinking chocolate

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as part of a daily ritual of the powerful and wealthy

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in the 18th century by the number of portraits it features in.

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'One last chocolate recipe with Fabrice.

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'This one would have been served at the court of Versailles.'

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-Looks familiar.

-It does look familiar.

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And I think we should have the egg yolk in it.

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Because I think an egg yolk's going to be lovely.

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It's going to add a real richness.

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Egg yolk in.

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Oh, look at that!

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Oh, yes.

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Mmmmm.

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Oh, yes.

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MICHEL CHUCKLES

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-Ah, yes.

-That's what I know.

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Maybe better.

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Yeah. Ohhh.

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Congratulations, you did well. MICHEL CHUCKLES

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-Very well.

-This is proper drinking chocolate!

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The 1700s saw a revolution in drinking habits.

0:27:200:27:24

Tea and coffee came to Europe, and the cafe was born.

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Here in the Procope, one of the oldest cafes in Paris,

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chocolate became the drink the wealthy middle class could enjoy.

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Even before the French Revolution, the practice of drinking chocolate

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was moving out of the courts and palaces and into the cafes.

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Writers, thinkers and public figures would set the world to rights

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over a cup of hot chocolate.

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And here, in La Procope, Voltaire would enjoy his chocolate

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with other members of the French Enlightenment.

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Chocolate was no longer the food of Kings.

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It's worth reflecting on the fact that this explosion in the drinking

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of tea, coffee and chocolate was driven by slave labour.

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It wasn't just sugar plantations

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that were worked by slaves in this period.

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In 1800, Sulpice Debauve, former pharmacist to Louis XVI,

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opened up his first chocolate shop in Paris.

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It was a sign that chocolate was undergoing a transition

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from liquid to solid,

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from drinking chocolate to sweets.

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# The more I see you

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# The more I want you

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# Somehow this feeling

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# Just grows and grows... #

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Chocolate in the 18th century was like caviar is today,

0:29:020:29:05

an expensive delicacy.

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But it was treated with reverence,

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and thankfully, in these Parisian chic boutiques, it still is today.

0:29:090:29:15

Chocolate is a serious business in France, not to be taken lightly.

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This is one of the Parisian chocolate shops

0:29:260:29:28

of top French chocolatier Jean-Paul Hevin.

0:29:280:29:31

You might think you're in a high-end jewellers,

0:29:310:29:34

or an haute couture boutique.

0:29:340:29:35

This is what's unique about chocolate in France,

0:29:350:29:39

a mix of style, the best ingredients,

0:29:390:29:42

superb craft, and a playful vision.

0:29:420:29:45

Yes, that's right. It's a chocolate stiletto.

0:29:450:29:50

# Can you imagine

0:29:500:29:52

# How much I love you

0:29:540:29:56

# The more I see you

0:29:570:30:00

# As years go by

0:30:010:30:05

# As years go by

0:30:010:30:05

# I know the only one for me

0:30:060:30:09

# Can only be you

0:30:090:30:13

# My arms won't free you

0:30:130:30:16

# And my heart won't try. #

0:30:160:30:19

In his kitchen, Jean-Paul combines state-of-the-art machinery

0:30:230:30:26

with craft skills that have existed for centuries.

0:30:260:30:29

All great chocolatiers have their signature piece.

0:31:420:31:46

For Jean-Paul, it's the edible stiletto.

0:31:460:31:48

He's just putting a little bit of edible varnish on it,

0:32:290:32:32

which gives it that lovely shine. It looks like a...

0:32:320:32:35

Well, now, it really does look like a very expensive shoe.

0:32:350:32:38

A really expensive shoe. Which it is.

0:32:380:32:40

It needs to come down in temperature.

0:32:450:32:47

For chocoholics and shoe fetishists everywhere,

0:33:090:33:12

the Jean-Paul Hevin shoe.

0:33:120:33:15

It might come in several colours,

0:33:150:33:17

but unfortunately only in one size - 35.

0:33:170:33:21

And only for the right foot.

0:33:210:33:23

According to the chocolate manufacturers,

0:33:240:33:26

one of the things we want is chocolate that sounds good.

0:33:260:33:30

So at this research laboratory, they are trying to create

0:33:300:33:33

a chocolate bar that makes the right sound when you snap it.

0:33:330:33:37

Debate has raged ever since Europeans discovered chocolate

0:33:430:33:47

as to whether it's good or bad for you.

0:33:470:33:49

Currently, some extraordinary claims are being made

0:33:490:33:52

for the health-giving benefits of chocolate.

0:33:520:33:54

It wasn't until the 19th century

0:35:280:35:30

that chocolate became an affordable item, no longer a luxury.

0:35:300:35:34

New manufacturing techniques meant that chocolate could be produced

0:35:340:35:38

cheaply and of a consistent quality.

0:35:380:35:42

This was the era of the great British chocolate manufacturers -

0:35:420:35:46

Cadbury's, Terry's and Fry's.

0:35:460:35:50

The chocolate bar had come of age.

0:35:500:35:52

In the 19th century,

0:36:040:36:06

as chocolate moved slowly away from the chemist's shop,

0:36:060:36:10

also, all these aphrodisiac connotations tend to fade away.

0:36:100:36:17

Chocolate becomes an item that can be given to children,

0:36:170:36:22

which was not the case before.

0:36:220:36:24

Until the 18th century, no child would readily have chocolate

0:36:240:36:29

because you don't know its properties.

0:36:290:36:32

But I would say, with the development of these new techniques

0:36:330:36:36

and the development of production,

0:36:360:36:38

chocolate definitely had a connotation

0:36:380:36:41

which was readily marketed by these industrialists,

0:36:410:36:45

particularly the British ones, because most of them were Quaker

0:36:450:36:50

and as such, strong believers in the fight against alcoholism.

0:36:500:36:56

And chocolate was seen as a substitute for cheap gin.

0:36:560:37:02

And so, you know, anyone can drink chocolate, it's good for you,

0:37:020:37:07

it's good for children, it helps restore your strength,

0:37:070:37:10

and certainly will help lead a healthy life.

0:37:100:37:14

Applying industrial methods to making chocolate

0:37:170:37:20

brought it within reach of ordinary people.

0:37:200:37:23

But it also meant a dilution of the use of pure cocoa ingredients.

0:37:230:37:27

The addition of milk, sugar

0:37:270:37:30

and the substitution of vegetable fats for cocoa paste

0:37:300:37:33

made chocolate sweeter and lighter in appearance.

0:37:330:37:36

This is approximately the amount of chocolate

0:37:390:37:42

which I used to eat every day - four bars of half a pound each.

0:37:420:37:46

-Only black chocolate.

-Only plain.

0:37:460:37:48

And I used to watch at the back, it had to have a minimum

0:37:480:37:51

of 51 to 55 or sometimes even 75 percent cocoa mass.

0:37:510:37:56

Because I don't want to get into trouble legally,

0:37:560:37:59

but, I mean, the EEC commissions, I think,

0:37:590:38:03

they warned England that the amount of cocoa which they had

0:38:030:38:07

in a lot of chocolate here didn't qualify it

0:38:070:38:11

for it to be called chocolate,

0:38:110:38:13

-it should have been called vegelate.

-It's true.

0:38:130:38:15

Now, some manufacturers have obviously gone out of business

0:38:150:38:18

because their standards have not been maintained.

0:38:180:38:22

We aim to keep going on for generations and generations.

0:38:220:38:25

If Jean-Paul Hevin represents the traditional, high-end French chocolatier,

0:39:230:39:27

then the enfant terrible of the chocolate world

0:39:270:39:30

is one Patrick Roger.

0:39:300:39:32

He's managed to combine his two obsessions -

0:39:320:39:35

chocolate and sculpture.

0:39:350:39:37

Like Jean-Paul Hevin, Roger wears the much-coveted tricolor collar

0:40:520:40:55

on his chef's jacket.

0:40:550:40:58

This is a sign that he's won the highest accolade

0:40:580:41:00

that his profession can bestow -

0:41:000:41:03

Meilleur Ouvrier de France.

0:41:030:41:05

The piece of work that won it for Roger

0:41:050:41:07

was unusual in chocolate-making circles -

0:41:070:41:10

a life-size sculpture of a cocoa plantation worker

0:41:100:41:14

made entirely out of chocolate.

0:41:140:41:16

Patrick's sculptures are made from top-quality edible chocolate.

0:41:370:41:41

Some are made for high-paying corporate clients.

0:41:410:41:44

Others are the result of his own obsessions.

0:41:440:41:47

The monkeys, for example,

0:41:470:41:48

were born out of his interest in wildlife conservation.

0:41:480:41:51

The chocolate sculptures eventually decay and fall apart.

0:42:540:42:58

But Patrick has taken to making moulds of them

0:42:580:43:00

and casting them in bronze.

0:43:000:43:03

These bronze pieces sell for thousands of pounds.

0:43:030:43:07

Four tonnes.

0:43:570:43:58

La il y a un probleme, il manque un doigt.

0:44:240:44:25

Oui, il faut qu'on recree...

0:44:250:44:27

'It's time for me to try my hand at chocolate sculpture.

0:44:270:44:30

'A little repair job on a missing finger.'

0:44:300:44:33

He's got cold hands, I mean really cold hands.

0:44:570:45:00

That little bit's mine.

0:45:460:45:49

That little bit there's mine!

0:45:490:45:52

It's time to put into practice all that I've learnt

0:45:590:46:02

on my chocolate taste-journey,

0:46:020:46:03

and create my very own chocolate

0:46:030:46:06

at a place that supplies

0:46:060:46:07

some of the very top chefs and restaurants the world over.

0:46:070:46:11

I'm here on the outskirts of Paris at the headquarters of Cacao Barry,

0:46:110:46:14

more specifically the original house of Monsieur Barry.

0:46:140:46:18

And this is the Or Noir Laboratory

0:46:180:46:21

where they specialise in making unique bespoke chocolates.

0:46:210:46:25

That's what I'm going to do.

0:46:250:46:27

It's all going to get very hi tech from here on in.

0:46:310:46:35

Just to show you a bit how it works.

0:46:370:46:39

So, here we have all the belt of chocolate. Er...

0:46:390:46:43

-The belt of chocolate?

-Yes, we call it the belt of chocolate.

0:46:430:46:46

Because if you take the globe, all around it you have a belt from...

0:46:460:46:50

This is the Equator, and you have the two tropics Cancer and Capricorn

0:46:500:46:53

and this is where all cocoa grows. OK?

0:46:530:46:57

First, we're going to taste chocolate.

0:46:570:47:00

So, chocolate that was created.

0:47:000:47:02

This is pure cocoa paste,

0:47:020:47:04

the 100 paste chocolate.

0:47:040:47:06

We want your palate.

0:47:060:47:07

What is interesting for me is to know your palate.

0:47:070:47:09

We want to work with your signature taste.

0:47:090:47:11

-So it will be unique to me?

-Yeah.

0:47:110:47:13

It would unique and exclusive in the world.

0:47:130:47:16

It will only be in Le Gavroche that your customers

0:47:160:47:19

are going to be able to taste your flavour. Your OWN flavour.

0:47:190:47:22

-Yes!

-Yes!

0:47:220:47:23

Before the process begins, Natasha, along with chocolate-maker Julie,

0:47:250:47:28

needs to get some clues as to how I want my chocolate to taste.

0:47:280:47:33

Definitely I want a strong, robust chocolate flavour

0:47:330:47:38

with a good amount of bitterness.

0:47:380:47:41

OK.

0:47:410:47:43

A hint of acidity. Just a little bit.

0:47:430:47:46

OK.

0:47:460:47:47

I do like the idea of a roasted background,

0:47:470:47:49

and the same with the fruitiness.

0:47:490:47:51

-I want fruitiness, but not overpowering.

-OK.

0:47:510:47:54

Based on that profile,

0:48:000:48:01

she is now going to offer me a variety of chocolate to sample.

0:48:010:48:04

Thank you.

0:48:060:48:07

-Like a coconut liqueur.

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

0:48:130:48:16

Nutty. Yeah, yeah...

0:48:170:48:19

Definitely. I like the floral note to it.

0:48:190:48:21

Coconut cream kind of...

0:48:210:48:23

That's it, coconut cream.

0:48:230:48:25

-Definitely.

-Mm...mm...

0:48:250:48:26

-I like that.

-I like that, as well.

0:48:360:48:38

And, unlike wine tasting, we don't spit it out.

0:48:420:48:45

-Got a nice flavour.

-It's well grounded.

-Exactly that.

0:48:470:48:50

-But it's lacking in identity.

-Yeah.

-OK. Erm...

0:48:500:48:53

-Can we go stronger?

-I think we could go stronger than that.

0:48:530:48:57

-Mm.

-Straightaway that's better.

-Oh, yeah.

0:49:000:49:02

Got a nice crunch to it. A nice feel to it.

0:49:020:49:04

-Mouth-feel is very important, too.

-Width.

0:49:040:49:08

I like that, yep.

0:49:080:49:09

From solid chocolate, we move to pure cocoa paste.

0:49:090:49:13

First, it's just the smell.

0:49:130:49:16

Ooph!

0:49:180:49:19

Oh, that's unbelievable.

0:49:250:49:27

-OK.

-Right.

0:49:270:49:28

I need to go back to this one.

0:49:280:49:30

Go ahead.

0:49:300:49:31

Look at the colour, also. It's much darker...

0:49:310:49:34

This one I found very interesting.

0:49:420:49:45

-I thought had a bit of mushroomy flavour, a bit musky... B1.

-OK.

0:49:450:49:49

After the smell, it's time to taste.

0:49:490:49:51

But only in tiny amounts - so concentrated are the flavours.

0:49:530:49:57

-It's not easy to taste this.

-No.

0:49:570:50:00

Without the sugar. That is NOT easy.

0:50:000:50:02

But I really do like the bitterness of this,

0:50:020:50:05

-and there's a hint of fruit in there, as well.

-OK.

0:50:050:50:07

I'm getting good at this.

0:50:070:50:08

'Now, I've even got to taste the bean,

0:50:080:50:11

'to compare it to the paste.'

0:50:110:50:12

Mm.

0:50:130:50:15

You feel the fruit here, no? You really feel the fruit.

0:50:150:50:17

-It's fruit. Yep, very fruity.

-Very, very fruity.

0:50:170:50:20

-OK?

-No, I like that. I like that a lot.

0:50:200:50:23

Very interesting. Mm...hmm-mm-mm!

0:50:230:50:26

-Do you want to know where they come from now?

-Oh, yes.

0:50:260:50:29

So, A1, we are travelling to Cuba.

0:50:290:50:32

Cuba! I've never been. I want to go to Cuba!

0:50:320:50:34

So we've Cuba. In Cuba the plantations are more on this part,

0:50:360:50:40

then we have Santo Domingo

0:50:400:50:42

and we have a bit of Venezuela.

0:50:420:50:45

-So, you are an American guy.

-Wow.

0:50:460:50:48

MICHEL WHISTLES

0:50:480:50:49

I am sorry, but Asia you don't want.

0:50:490:50:52

Natasha and Julie have taken me on this wonderful taste train

0:50:530:50:57

of the chocolate belt.

0:50:570:50:59

And it's intriguing because I always thought I wanted chocolate

0:50:590:51:05

that had a certain acidity and certain notes of bitterness,

0:51:050:51:10

but I've actually found my taste buds wanted something completely different.

0:51:100:51:14

The one thing that I've learnt,

0:51:140:51:16

is that chocolate is very, very complex.

0:51:160:51:18

It's not just one taste.

0:51:180:51:21

It's extraordinary.

0:51:210:51:23

And it's not just taste, it's also smell and texture.

0:51:230:51:29

Julie is going to help us out.

0:51:290:51:31

This is the recipe.

0:51:310:51:33

We call this the orgue of chocolate.

0:51:360:51:38

The what?

0:51:380:51:40

The orgue of chocolate.

0:51:400:51:42

Like in a church.

0:51:420:51:44

Oh, the...the organ?

0:51:440:51:45

Yes. The organ of chocolate.

0:51:450:51:47

So, A2, can you give me 170g?

0:51:470:51:52

-170g.

-Yeah.

0:51:520:51:54

'Having narrowed down the blend of chocolate used in my recipe,

0:51:540:51:58

'we're actually going to make it.'

0:51:580:52:00

It smells lovely.

0:52:080:52:10

Mmm!

0:52:100:52:11

I want it to be a chocolate that I can use on different desserts

0:52:210:52:24

but I also want to be able to offer to people

0:52:240:52:28

a bite of the chocolate as it is.

0:52:280:52:31

Because I think that would be the true reflection of my palate

0:52:310:52:34

and of what I deem as a great chocolate.

0:52:340:52:37

'This is the moment of truth.

0:52:420:52:44

'What will my chocolate taste like?'

0:52:440:52:46

It would be better to wait until it gets back to room temperature

0:52:460:52:50

so that the taste is stabilised.

0:52:500:52:52

It'll come to temperature in my mouth.

0:52:520:52:55

SHE LAUGHS

0:52:550:52:57

Hmm..!

0:53:020:53:03

Mmm!

0:53:080:53:09

It ticks all of those boxes.

0:53:120:53:15

Chocolaty.

0:53:150:53:16

Really intense chocolaty.

0:53:160:53:18

-Mm-hm.

-Bitterness, sweetness...

0:53:180:53:20

Fruitiness.

0:53:200:53:22

It's got character.

0:53:220:53:24

It's unlike any other chocolate that I know of.

0:53:240:53:27

It's unique.

0:53:270:53:29

This is it.

0:53:330:53:34

I finally got it.

0:53:340:53:36

My chocolate.

0:53:360:53:37

All that hard work,

0:53:370:53:39

all that smelling and tasting

0:53:390:53:41

and that voyage to find

0:53:410:53:43

the kind of chocolate that I want.

0:53:430:53:46

I can smell that aroma.

0:53:490:53:51

Here they are.

0:53:510:53:52

My little chocolate beans.

0:53:520:53:54

Now I'm going to make a chocolate desert.

0:53:550:53:57

Something really special,

0:53:570:53:59

something extravagant,

0:53:590:54:00

something delicious -

0:54:000:54:01

a chocolate souffle.

0:54:010:54:03

Now, there are no two sterner critics

0:54:030:54:07

than my wife and daughter.

0:54:070:54:09

So you're the first people to have Michel's signature chocolate.

0:54:130:54:17

Yes! The first one to try this chocolate.

0:54:170:54:19

Better be good, uh?

0:54:190:54:21

'My daughter Emily is training to be a professional chef,

0:54:210:54:24

'so I expect her to be particularly hard on me.'

0:54:240:54:27

I am making a chocolate souffle.

0:54:310:54:33

A lovely rich, dark chocolate sauce.

0:54:330:54:36

And some chocolate cookies.

0:54:370:54:39

But I want the true flavour of the chocolate to come through.

0:54:410:54:45

So it's not too sweet.

0:54:450:54:46

Mm!

0:54:490:54:50

It's looking good enough to jump in headfirst.

0:54:520:54:55

They're coated in cocoa powder.

0:55:090:55:12

That looks just about right.

0:55:170:55:20

That's good enough to eat as it is.

0:55:200:55:23

This is indulgent. Chocolaty...

0:55:240:55:27

Mm!

0:55:270:55:29

No swear words, so it could be... could be good.

0:55:370:55:42

Or not.

0:55:420:55:43

This lovely, rich, dark, bitter chocolate sauce

0:55:450:55:48

is to pour into the souffles

0:55:480:55:50

and then you use the biscuits to dunk into the souffles.

0:55:500:55:55

They are going to love this.

0:55:560:55:58

In this country, too often we think of chocolate as just one thing -

0:56:030:56:07

a bar or a slab of sugary milk confectionery.

0:56:070:56:10

But on my journey I've discovered that it's many things.

0:56:100:56:15

It's an extremely complex and sophisticated foodstuff

0:56:150:56:17

that can embrace a myriad of flavours and textures.

0:56:170:56:21

It's a bit bitty.

0:56:210:56:23

Its history is connected with the rise and fall of empires,

0:56:230:56:25

the lives of monarchs,

0:56:250:56:28

and the Industrial Revolution.

0:56:280:56:30

And no wonder chocolate has been associated with romance for centuries,

0:56:300:56:33

what better expression of love is there

0:56:330:56:36

than the gift of chocolate?

0:56:360:56:38

-Looks good!

-Yes, it looks very delicious.

0:56:390:56:43

I like the slight wobbliness of it.

0:56:430:56:46

Now you need some chocolate sauce in this.

0:56:460:56:49

Yes...

0:56:490:56:50

You ready for it?

0:56:500:56:52

Mmm!

0:56:520:56:54

Yes, please.

0:56:560:56:57

Yum! That looks delish.

0:56:590:57:02

And a chocolate cookie.

0:57:020:57:04

-To go with it?

-Yes.

0:57:040:57:05

-That's too much chocolate.

-No, no, no, no.

0:57:050:57:08

Never too much chocolate.

0:57:080:57:11

Oh, shall I go first?

0:57:110:57:12

Shall I not burn myself?

0:57:120:57:14

Mm! Very tasty.

0:57:190:57:21

It looks hot.

0:57:230:57:24

But it's not too... Too hot.

0:57:240:57:27

Intense in chocolate, that's for sure.

0:57:280:57:31

Not too sweet, which is nice.

0:57:310:57:34

It's very intense, but nice flavour.

0:57:340:57:38

-Intense chocolaty enough?

-Mm.

-Mm.

0:57:380:57:41

-Delicious.

-What about the cookies?

0:57:410:57:43

I prefer the souffle.

0:57:430:57:44

I'm going to try the cookie on its own.

0:57:440:57:47

That is even more intense.

0:57:490:57:50

That's so delicious.

0:57:500:57:52

It's a chocolate-lover's dream.

0:57:520:57:54

-Yeah. No, it's perfect.

-Mmm...!

0:57:540:57:56

So is this good enough?

0:57:570:57:59

Definitely good enough, Chef!

0:57:590:58:01

Was it worth my trip...

0:58:010:58:03

to find the best possible chocolate?

0:58:030:58:07

-Definitely worth it.

-For sure.

0:58:070:58:09

Oh.

0:58:090:58:10

Mmm!

0:58:100:58:12

This is MY chocolate.

0:58:120:58:13

My very own mix of chocolate.

0:58:130:58:15

Good choice.

0:58:150:58:17

I'm really pleased with it.

0:58:170:58:19

Are you proud of yourself?

0:58:190:58:21

-Yeah, I am!

-Well done, Dad.

-I am.

0:58:210:58:23

So you should be, darling.

0:58:230:58:25

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