Going Going Gone: Nick Broomfield's Disappearing Britain


Going Going Gone: Nick Broomfield's Disappearing Britain

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Preserve, don't demolish!

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Preserve, don't demolish! Preserve, don't demolish!

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Preserve, don't demolish!

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Demolish the Victorian, the Edwardian, the Georgian.

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Replace it with skyscraper blocks.

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Lambeth Council wants to demolish

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the estate in Tulse Hill and rebuild.

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Down with the old, up with the new.

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'The Wellington Rooms today are handled by Liverpool Corporation.

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'One of the problems we were having

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'was getting enough time in the building...'

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Howdy! '..because of health and safety regulations.'

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So what... is there a problem over here?

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Yeah, well, obviously there's falling plaster...

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What, just down this way?

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..from the height and weight of it is a little bit dodgy.

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Gosh, the water is ruining the Adam ceiling.

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Yeah.

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Just up here. Just try and avoid that column there.

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-That column?

-Mm.

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And you couldn't just let us,

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-um, just stay here for an hour or two and...

-I couldn't, no.

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I mean, have you signed anything with Kevin or an indemnity form?

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I don't mind signing an indemnity form.

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I haven't got anything on me at the minute.

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If we sign an indemnity form that if we fell through the floor,

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we wouldn't sue Liverpool Corporation,

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would that make any difference?

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It would certainly help.

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-So this is the really bad area?

-It is.

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The problem with this is whilst there's been previous

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moisture ingress,

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when you dry a place out, you've got expansion

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and contraction of material, so the plaster has shrunk

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and it's just dried and come away.

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Right.

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And whilst the individual small pieces doesn't feel as though

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they're heavy, if they fall from a decent height,

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they're going to hurt.

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-When it lands on your head?

-Yeah.

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Well, we won't sue Liverpool Corporation anyway.

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You might not sue,

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but we could be... civil proceedings in terms of manslaughter or anything

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like that, couldn't we, so...

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But it feels very solidly constructed.

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HE JUMPS UP AND DOWN

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It doesn't move when I do that.

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As I say, we've got joist ends here which are potentially rotten.

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So... it's... we...

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we don't want to take that risk, hence...

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why it's a supervised visit.

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Yeah.

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'It was hard for me to imagine now,

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'but when I last knew the Wellington Rooms,

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'it was the Irish centre, full of dancing and light.

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CEILI MUSIC PLAYS

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MUSIC CONTINUES

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MUSIC ENDS

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You can't really understand what's happened to the Wellington Rooms

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today in its isolation, without first understanding

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what happened to the local community that once surrounded it.

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MUSIC: Feel Like Jumping by Marcia Griffiths

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When I first knew this area in the heart of Liverpool,

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it was full of people - Irish, Italians, Greek, Somalis, Chinese,

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all living side-by-side.

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It was a real community then.

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# Feel like jumping

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# I feel like shouting now

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# I feel like moving... #

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It was called the Abercromby community

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and existed for over 300 years.

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Most of the buildings predate the Wellington Rooms themselves.

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The community that surrounded the Wellington Rooms

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has now disappeared.

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I made my first student film here,

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told through the eyes of Ruth and Bertha

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about their friends and neighbours.

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It was the street fit to live on, I'll be truthful.

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When I came to live here, you could leave your doors open

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and you wouldn't miss a thing.

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I'll tell you how good it was.

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At that time, I lived in the basement.

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I used to open my basement window.

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Well, it'd be my turn one day to make a pot of tea.

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And buy cake, and pass it through the window

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and they'd all sit around my window.

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Well, then, it would be someone else's turn the next day

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and that's the way it went on.

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And harmless times, they were.

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You understand what I mean. There was no badness.

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No badness at all,

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just dancing and...

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..making a fool of ourselves.

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But the decision was made to demolish the housing,

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a lot of it Georgian, as seen here,

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with no regard for the community.

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LOUD BOOM

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CHILDREN SHOUT EXCITEDLY

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This is the exact spot where we filmed.

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And this is what has replaced it.

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The people from here,

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in this area now taken over by the university,

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were moved out to places like Cantril Farm or Kirkby,

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miles from the city centre.

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'We met with George Scully, who grew up here and who answered

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'a radio appeal we made for the old community to come forward.'

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All the beautiful houses like this on that side...

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all the way up, demolished.

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Beautiful houses on that way up, demolished.

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The Faculty of Law in 1949-50 was one house on this corner.

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Now it's a massive department up there on the corner

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of Chatham Street and Myrtle Street.

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Are there streets that have gone completely that were here?

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Cambridge Street ran through there into Grove Street

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with beautiful houses there.

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They were demolished.

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And the people were kept totally uninformed.

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When we lived here, when there was a community here,

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working class community...

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there were no amenities but it was still a very rich community

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but now there is just nothing

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because the students have no affinity with this area.

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Most of them come from other towns in England.

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Most of them come from abroad so they have no affinity

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and for half of the year, you know,

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if you just take the academic year into account, they're not even here.

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They go away, so all of this area is a ghost town.

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'The irony is that George ended up as a student at the university.'

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In fact, the English Department was built on my... my house!

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Which I couldn't get my head around, you know.

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It interfered with my studies!

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When I was sitting in the common room, of a day, you know,

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I was saying, the Lloyds used to live here

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and the McNamees used to live here. We lived here.

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And I was daydreaming all the time, you know.

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So your house on Heath Street used to be right there?

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And that is the English Department.

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Now there's only the university left.

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REGENCY DANCE MUSIC

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This is the Wellington Rooms when they were built in 1815,

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when the columned entrance was still open.

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Sedan chairs brought the men and women

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to separate entrances on either side of the building.

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They met in the ballroom.

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HOOVES GALLOP

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Each year, the horse that won the Grand National

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would be brought to the ballroom to drink from a bucket of champagne.

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CORK POPS AND HORSE NEIGHS

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The only balls to be cancelled during those years

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were for the Boer War and the death of Queen Victoria.

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It didn't seem to put anyone off that the Wellington Rooms

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were built next to the biggest workhouse in Britain.

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Built in 1769, the workhouse had 4,000 people.

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In 1923, much of the wealth had left Liverpool

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and the building was sold.

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For many years, it became the Rodney youth centre

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and served the local community.

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In 1965, the Wellington Rooms became the Irish Centre

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and the spiritual home of Irish life in Liverpool.

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There was massive Irish immigration to Liverpool

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during the 19th century.

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By 1860, 20% of Liverpool's population was Irish,

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mostly the poorest and worst paid.

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There was a lot of anti-Irish feeling.

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You were involved with this place for years and years and years.

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I was. I was involved from when it opened in '64

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until about three years before it closed down, late '80s.

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And I used to work here regularly.

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Virtually every Sunday night, I did the reception desk here.

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-The reception desk?

-Which was this failte reception, yes.

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So show us around.

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And you met your wife here?

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-Let's go into the big room.

-Yes.

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I...

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I came here from the time it was opened.

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At the same time as I was coming here,

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my wife was helping out in the kitchens and we met here.

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-And...

-And fell in love?

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Fell in love and got married and had our reception in this room.

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This ballroom, and... You can see the remains of the frieze

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along part of it and you can imagine that,

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beautifully painted and decorated

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and all the rest of it.

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And this was the dance floor here

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and down at the back, you had chairs and tables where people sat.

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IRISH WALTZ

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APPLAUSE

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-Hello!

-Hello.

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Hello!

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-Say bye-bye.

-Bye-bye.

-Bye-bye.

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During the '80s, this ballroom was absolutely full every Friday

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and Saturday night because big bands like Big Tom And The Mainliners

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and Brendan Shine and people like that

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were coming over from Ireland...

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Because there's a stage over there, isn't there?

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And that's the stage there.

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APPLAUSE AND CHEERING

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BAND PLAYS DIRE STRAITS' WALK OF LIFE

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# Here comes Johnny and he'll tell you the story

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# Hand me down my walkin' shoes

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# Here comes Johnny with the power and the glory

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# Backbeat the talkin' blues

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# He got the action, he got the motion

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# Oh, yeah, the boy can play

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# Dedication, devotion

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# Turning all the night-time into the day

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# He do the song about the sweet lovin' woman

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# He do the song about the knife

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# He do the walk

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# He do the walk of life

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# He do the walk of life. #

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HAPPY CHATTER

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Francie, you all right?

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SHE GIGGLES

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People came here

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because this was the place where the Irish community on Merseyside met.

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And this was the place where they, er, carried on their cultural,

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-social...

-It was a happy place?

-A very, very happy place.

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And, um...

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It was also a place where people could come in and feel at home.

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-Yeah.

-They...

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I mean, I, as you can hear from me, my Irish accent has not left me.

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And you could come in here and talk whatever way you would talk

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and nobody would be passing remarks and things like that.

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-Those kind of little things that mean so much.

-Yeah.

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These are future plans submitted for the Wellington Rooms.

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-Do you think it has a future, the building?

-No.

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I don't think the building has a future,

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unless some multimillionaire comes along

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and has got a few millions to spare and he can do it up

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but I don't know what it could be used for.

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It certainly could not be used again ever as an Irish centre

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because the Irish community could not support it.

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There are not enough people here at the moment.

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You said there were so many strict rules with English Heritage

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that made it very difficult?

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Well, it's a Grade II listed building

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so every time you want to get anything done,

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you have got to get the approval of English Heritage.

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And what we've found, when I was on the executive committee here,

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was that as soon as English Heritage were involved,

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the cost of everything went up.

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There has, however,

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been some recent talk of the University taking over the building.

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So, which was the spot?

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'Sean fell in love with his wife the first moment he saw her

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'in the Wellington Rooms.'

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And what happened?

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I walked across the room, having consumed a couple of pints of beer,

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and said, "I saw you across the crowded room," and all that shit,

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and she thought I was some sort of drunken eejit.

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But to cut a long story short,

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we had a dance before the end of the night

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to The Ballad Of James Connolly...

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..and we're together since.

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That's fantastic.

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And you saved a ticket or something.

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Yeah, that's correct. It was from the night.

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She gave me her phone number.

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Still got that.

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Yeah, there's the ticket and there's the phone number.

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The ticket from the night. And we've still got the same phone number.

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And it's great that you've been in love ever since.

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Well, he phones me at least once a day in work and then I say,

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"I love you, Sean. Love you, love you,"

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and everyone goes, "Oh, God..."

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But, yeah, I do. Still very close.

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You do everything together.

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-We do everything together, don't we?

-Yeah.

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Not sad, we have got lots of friends as well,

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but we do do everything together.

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# A great crowd had gathered

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# Outside of Kilmainham

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# Their heads all uncovered

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# They knelt to the ground

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# For inside that grim prison

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# Lay a brave Irish soldier

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# His life for his country

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# About to lay down

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# He went to his death

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# Like a true son of Ireland

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# The firing party

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# He bravely did face

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# Then the order rang out

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# Present arms and fire

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# James Connolly fell into... #

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It's a building that has inspired a lot of love.

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When the Irish Centre closed,

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people literally took to the roof to protest.

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The staff here will stay on the rooftop protest

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as long as necessary.

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The rooftop protest lasted six months, but it failed...

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..and the Wellington Rooms have been empty since.

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That's it, just come towards me a little bit more.

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We got a call from Liverpool Planning

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that they were about to announce a potential £8 million scheme

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with the University to save the Wellington Rooms.

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But it didn't seem to actually add up to much.

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Well, we've still yet to define the detail of it all,

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so we've started that process.

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We will get a 12-month exclusivity which will allow us

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to go through the architectural, the costings,

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and then to look at potential sources of funding.

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And then we'll take all of that back to the city council

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and see where we are. We're very lucky, I think,

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having the universities very keen on being involved,

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cos that answers the big question

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of how are you going to use this building?

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It all sounded very hazy to me.

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I got the distinct feeling they made the announcement

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just to keep us happy.

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THUNDER RUMBLES

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WATER DRIPS RAPIDLY

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'Barbara and Ellen met 70 years ago at the Wellington Rooms

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'and they're still best friends.'

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Hello!

0:25:520:25:54

-So, have you come to go dancing today?

-Pardon?

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-Are you going to come and do some dancing?

-Yes, we are.

-Yes.

-You are?

0:26:030:26:07

Yes, we are. We're looking forward to it.

0:26:070:26:09

And so, for how many years did you dance here?

0:26:090:26:12

From...1961

0:26:130:26:16

until it closed.

0:26:160:26:18

-Until it closed.

-Yeah.

0:26:180:26:20

-So, were you teenagers then?

-Yes.

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All right.

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-Oh, here's where we had our fun.

-Oh, yeah.

0:26:360:26:39

-Do you remember?

-Oh, yeah.

0:26:530:26:55

Do you know, it's lovely to see it again, though.

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Even though it's not usable, it's lovely to see it.

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It brings back everything.

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-It hasn't deteriorated, really.

-No.

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-Look at the chandelier.

-I know, yeah.

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Think of all the dancing I did here when I was young.

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We didn't have a care in the world then.

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-I haven't now, thank God. But, erm...

-All friends together.

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You can just hear that music from years ago.

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You know, just being here.

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And the laughter, the fun.

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Oh, fantastic.

0:27:480:27:49

-This is where we used to sit, over here.

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

0:27:520:27:55

Actually, on that picture, that's where we were sitting.

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Bet you can remember everything about it.

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Look at that.

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SHE GASPS

0:28:120:28:14

-Gosh, the roof is leaking.

-Oh, look at that.

-Wow.

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You'd wonder how they could let it go into such a state of disrepair.

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-Yeah.

-And do nothing about it.

0:28:260:28:28

'I really hope the university plans work out.

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'In the meantime, I just had to see dancing

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'and hear music again in the Wellington Rooms.'

0:28:410:28:44

CEILI MUSIC PLAYS

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Wow, look at that.

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It's really screwed up.

0:30:250:30:27

'The Coal Exchange was my favourite building

0:30:300:30:32

'when I lived in Cardiff and when I recently read that it was

0:30:320:30:36

'faced with demolition, I came back to visit my old friend.'

0:30:360:30:41

-Hi.

-Hi, come on in.

0:30:410:30:43

-Nice to see you.

-I'm Louisa.

0:30:430:30:45

Through here is the main hall,

0:30:450:30:49

which we're not allowed into any more.

0:30:490:30:52

The council has put a restrictive order on it

0:30:520:30:54

because they believe it is dangerous.

0:30:540:30:56

-But we can't go in.

-Unfortunately, no.

0:30:560:30:59

You don't get to argue with the council

0:30:590:31:01

health and safety department.

0:31:010:31:02

They say it's dangerous, they're the bosses.

0:31:020:31:05

Why do you think they wanted to close it?

0:31:050:31:07

I think that's a very long story.

0:31:070:31:09

Let's take you upstairs to the office and we can tell it.

0:31:090:31:11

-All right.

-Come on into our office - "Save The Coal Exchange".

0:31:110:31:15

-And this is Ian, who is one of the other directors.

-Hi.

0:31:150:31:19

-Pleased to meet you.

-So, what have we got here?

0:31:190:31:22

This is some of the stills of the building in occupation

0:31:220:31:25

and that is the floor of the exchange full of the traders.

0:31:250:31:28

ECHOING VOICES

0:31:310:31:33

BELL DINGS

0:31:330:31:35

TYPEWRITERS CLACK

0:31:350:31:37

BELL DINGS

0:31:560:31:58

Albert Alexander, the last working member of the Coal Exchange,

0:32:020:32:06

was 99 when this interview was given.

0:32:060:32:09

I was 24, so that would have been 1925.

0:32:090:32:13

And I was the youngest member on the floor of the Exchange by 30 years.

0:32:130:32:18

I was really a kid.

0:32:200:32:22

It was fabulous, you know.

0:32:220:32:25

I had to dress in striped trousers,

0:32:250:32:29

spats - black shoes - spats and striped trousers,

0:32:290:32:34

and my membership was 323.

0:32:340:32:39

I finished up number three.

0:32:410:32:44

And I saw the thing finish.

0:32:440:32:46

When I knew it in later days, it had become a live events venue.

0:32:480:32:52

Then in 2013, it was suddenly closed.

0:32:540:32:58

Why do you think the council actually closed the hall down?

0:32:580:33:02

They closed it to allow developers

0:33:020:33:04

to make a large lot of money out of it.

0:33:040:33:06

At one point the idea was to build a 21-storey tower block here,

0:33:070:33:11

a facade retention scheme,

0:33:110:33:14

which would keep three quarters of the outside wall up

0:33:140:33:17

and then basically just build a tower block in the middle

0:33:170:33:20

with flats and apartments.

0:33:200:33:22

Which is pretty vile, really.

0:33:220:33:24

And I guess that's where the money is,

0:33:240:33:26

that's where they think the money is.

0:33:260:33:27

The money is per square metre. The more floors you've got,

0:33:270:33:30

the more square metres you've got, the more profit you make.

0:33:300:33:33

I so admire what you're doing.

0:33:330:33:34

It must take a lot of time and energy and...

0:33:340:33:37

Ian is the man who's here five days a week, unpaid, in the office.

0:33:370:33:42

But it has been really interesting.

0:33:420:33:44

I've done a lot of campaigning over the years,

0:33:440:33:46

I've never come across something where

0:33:460:33:48

there is so much public sentiment locally, so much support,

0:33:480:33:51

so much emotional attachment to the idea that this place

0:33:510:33:54

should rise again, effectively.

0:33:540:33:56

So this has taken a lot of your life.

0:33:580:34:01

All of it, really, at the moment,

0:34:010:34:02

-yeah, about the last eight or nine months.

-All of it?

-Yeah.

0:34:020:34:05

It's called obsession, really.

0:34:050:34:07

-Ian is working here full-time.

-Yes.

-And the rest of us help out.

0:34:070:34:11

I don't know how long I can carry on.

0:34:110:34:13

-Just physically it's getting a bit difficult...

-Is it?

0:34:130:34:16

..and emotionally. Yeah.

0:34:160:34:17

The Coal Exchange was also like a club for the hoorays of its day.

0:34:230:34:27

Champagne bottles were used as skittles.

0:34:270:34:30

It had its own vintners, tailors, and a dining club.

0:34:300:34:33

It's in the last historical area of Butetown,

0:34:380:34:41

the dock area of Cardiff, and that's all in a bad state of decay.

0:34:410:34:45

It's not just the Coal Exchange that has been left to rot

0:34:520:34:55

for the last 30 years.

0:34:550:34:57

It's also buildings like this, the Old Post Office,

0:35:010:35:05

built in 1881 by EJ Rivers in glorious Italian style

0:35:050:35:09

and now in serious decay.

0:35:090:35:11

The Cory Building, built in 1889,

0:35:160:35:19

architects Bruton and Williams, empty now for 20 years.

0:35:190:35:24

This magnificent former bank, built in 1926 by Palmer and Holden

0:35:280:35:34

in classic Greek style, empty for over 20 years

0:35:340:35:38

and in a bad state of neglect.

0:35:380:35:40

The railway station,

0:35:430:35:45

built in 1843 and left to rot for the last 30 years.

0:35:450:35:50

All of these buildings, like the Coal Exchange, face an uncertain

0:36:060:36:10

future, even though they have a Grade II listing for preservation.

0:36:100:36:14

If they are left to rot long enough that they can be declared unsafe,

0:36:150:36:20

Cardiff Council can knock them down.

0:36:200:36:22

It's so expensive to develop a listed building that the council

0:36:240:36:29

put on an order which allowed them to come in, declare

0:36:290:36:31

it a danger to the public and then they can bring the bulldozers in.

0:36:310:36:36

Simple as that.

0:36:360:36:38

And then they can develop it without going to Cadw,

0:36:380:36:41

without going to the Assembly and things like that.

0:36:410:36:43

So you think, in the last few years,

0:36:430:36:45

there's been a sort of deliberate policy of not fixing the building?

0:36:450:36:48

-Yes.

-One of the councillors actually said to us that,

0:36:480:36:51

after they got the report, they were just told to

0:36:510:36:54

pray for a high wind and hope the place fell down.

0:36:540:36:57

-Really?

-Yeah.

-Yeah.

0:36:570:36:59

But you can't really understand the threat facing the Coal Exchange

0:37:080:37:11

without first looking at what has already

0:37:110:37:14

happened to the nearby docks in the Butetown community.

0:37:140:37:17

It was a gold rush equivalent in coal.

0:37:240:37:27

Enormous fortunes were made at the Coal Exchange,

0:37:270:37:30

where the first million-pound deal in the world was struck.

0:37:300:37:34

At its peak, the docks exported 14 million tonnes of coal a year.

0:37:340:37:38

But then the coal boom ended.

0:38:030:38:05

The Coal Exchange closed in 1958.

0:38:050:38:09

But no attempt was made to renovate it for some other use

0:38:090:38:13

or, for that matter, the historical buildings around it,

0:38:130:38:16

which have some of the best architecture in Cardiff.

0:38:160:38:19

There was far quicker and easier money to be made by filling in

0:38:210:38:25

the docks and tearing down the old warehouses and dock buildings.

0:38:250:38:29

There was absolutely no incentive to renovate.

0:38:290:38:32

New streets like this were built where the docks had been,

0:38:350:38:39

now lined with new houses.

0:38:390:38:41

And here's the development team, who decided to fill the docks in.

0:38:440:38:48

Here's another example of their work in the exact spot where

0:38:500:38:53

the Pierhead dock used to be.

0:38:530:38:55

I also discovered they're not too keen

0:38:560:38:58

on having their handiwork examined.

0:38:580:39:01

-I'm the manager of the site.

-Oh, good for you.

0:39:010:39:03

And it's a licensed-premises site,

0:39:030:39:05

so obviously you have to have permission to film.

0:39:050:39:08

-We can't just film here?

-No, sorry.

0:39:080:39:11

How strange.

0:39:110:39:12

No, sorry, it's a licensed-premises site,

0:39:120:39:14

so obviously you've got to go through our media department,

0:39:140:39:17

which is Tim Powell. You'll have to speak to him to confirm first.

0:39:170:39:21

Obviously, because I don't know what you're filming.

0:39:210:39:23

Well, we're just filming where the dock used to be.

0:39:230:39:25

-Yeah.

-What do you think of the development?

0:39:250:39:29

What do you think of this...

0:39:290:39:30

..yourself?

0:39:320:39:33

-Nothing. I don't think anything.

-You don't think anything?

0:39:330:39:36

-No. So if you want to speak to Tim Powell first.

-All right.

0:39:360:39:38

OK. We will. All right, thank you.

0:39:380:39:41

'The fight to save the Coal Exchange makes even more sense

0:39:470:39:50

'when I realise what has already been lost.

0:39:500:39:53

'Here are some examples of then and now.'

0:39:540:39:56

# Tiger Bay, Tiger Bay

0:39:560:40:03

# It's not very far from the docks

0:40:050:40:11

# When you get to Loudoun Square

0:40:130:40:19

# Turn to the right and you're not far from there

0:40:200:40:28

# Tiger Bay, Tiger Bay

0:40:280:40:34

# It's just like a fancy-dress ball... #

0:40:350:40:41

Butetown was a community made up of over 50 nationalities,

0:40:410:40:45

seen here in the film Tiger Bay.

0:40:450:40:47

-Whey!

-Whey!

0:40:510:40:53

Butetown was exceptional. There was absolutely no racial tension.

0:41:020:41:06

One of the quickest ways of finding a community's attitude to

0:41:070:41:11

racial discrimination is to see what it thinks of mixed marriages.

0:41:110:41:14

The sight of a white girl married to a coloured man can release

0:41:140:41:17

the most violent prejudices.

0:41:170:41:19

Does it happen in Butetown?

0:41:190:41:21

Why do you think things are so peaceable down here?

0:41:310:41:34

Why are things so peaceful?

0:41:340:41:36

This was all races mixing in together, was it?

0:41:530:41:56

This incredible community of over 50 nationalities was destroyed

0:42:010:42:05

in the rehousing, as was the Georgian Loudoun Square seen here,

0:42:050:42:10

which looks like this today.

0:42:100:42:12

So back to the Coal Exchange. What chance did it really have?

0:42:190:42:23

It slowly deteriorated until the late '70s

0:42:230:42:26

when it was decided to make it the home of the Welsh National Assembly.

0:42:260:42:31

But far from being its saviour,

0:42:310:42:33

this was when the building was really abused.

0:42:330:42:35

'I went to ask Ian if we could finally get into the hall,

0:42:400:42:43

'which I understood had been drastically changed

0:42:430:42:46

'since I had last seen it.'

0:42:460:42:48

No, you can't go in there.

0:42:480:42:49

We have actually had surveys done of our own to say it's safe

0:42:490:42:53

but, unfortunately, health and safety and the council has

0:42:530:42:56

so far refused to accept them.

0:42:560:42:58

Supposing you let us in there, what would happen?

0:43:000:43:04

If we let them in there and anyone knew about it, then

0:43:040:43:06

I would be liable for a £20,000 fine

0:43:060:43:10

and also six months of imprisonment.

0:43:100:43:12

Are you seriously, like, intimidated by that?

0:43:120:43:15

Erm... Yes, definitely, in some ways. I mean, intimidated enough.

0:43:150:43:19

I'm not intimidated by it, no, but I'm equally not going to

0:43:190:43:22

take you out on the balcony with a camera.

0:43:220:43:25

'It's hard to make a film about saving a building

0:43:270:43:30

'when you're not allowed to see it.'

0:43:300:43:32

It's down this way.

0:43:320:43:34

This is the place you're not allowed to go, I'm afraid,

0:43:340:43:37

which is the balcony.

0:43:370:43:39

That's actually the balcony?

0:43:410:43:42

On the second floor, yeah. So if you...

0:43:420:43:45

The wall in front of you also went in in 1970 or whatever and...

0:43:460:43:51

..there's actually a balcony here, like the one downstairs,

0:43:520:43:56

and they've put a wall in front of it to...

0:43:560:43:58

Just to fill in this space, basically, because now...

0:44:000:44:03

-It looks safe in there, though, doesn't it?

-No, it's not really.

0:44:030:44:06

-It's not safe?

-Yeah, no, no.

-Really? All right.

-Sorry.

0:44:060:44:10

All right. You're standing there to stop me going in?

0:44:100:44:13

That's right, yeah.

0:44:130:44:14

-All right.

-OK.

0:44:160:44:17

-OK, all right.

-Good.

0:44:180:44:20

OK, let's do it.

0:44:200:44:22

-I'm not going to make a run for it.

-OK, all right.

0:44:240:44:27

Well, if you do, we'll get some good workout

0:44:280:44:30

-because I'll rugby tackle you.

-You will what?

0:44:300:44:33

-I'll rugby tackle you.

-Oh, will you?

0:44:330:44:36

It would be a very good... good cinema.

0:44:360:44:38

I'm almost tempted to do it.

0:44:380:44:41

THEY LAUGH

0:44:410:44:43

'It is frustrating, though.

0:44:440:44:46

'Ian had actually been pointing out the false wall that had been

0:44:460:44:49

'put up in the '70s covering up the second gallery

0:44:490:44:53

'and putting in a false ceiling covering the glass roof.'

0:44:530:44:58

When I had last seen it as a student in the '60s,

0:44:580:45:01

the Coal Exchange looked like this,

0:45:010:45:04

with a second gallery and a glass roof.

0:45:040:45:06

There were offices all around the galleries

0:45:080:45:11

and people would shout their bids to the exchange floor.

0:45:110:45:14

In the '70s, the glass roof was covered in,

0:45:170:45:20

as well as the second gallery and the offices surrounding it.

0:45:200:45:24

This shows the exterior of the Coal Exchange up until the 1970s.

0:45:270:45:31

This is the main entrance. There was a restaurant to the right

0:45:330:45:37

and steps leading to the Exchange from the street.

0:45:370:45:40

Then it was decided to put in a car park,

0:45:410:45:43

which would double as a nuclear air-raid shelter.

0:45:430:45:47

The restaurant and main approach from the street were covered in.

0:45:470:45:50

The unique exchange floor, seen here,

0:45:520:45:55

a foot and a half below the normal floor where the bids were taken,

0:45:550:45:58

I learned had also been filled in.

0:45:580:46:00

Also, during the '70s development,

0:46:050:46:07

the original ornate wooden staircases were removed

0:46:070:46:11

and these put in their place.

0:46:110:46:13

'I've been talking to the council about getting into the building.

0:46:280:46:32

'A building I love and remember so well.

0:46:320:46:35

'But weeks of phone calls have got me nowhere.'

0:46:350:46:37

Urgh, jeez!

0:46:380:46:40

Lucky I do these push-ups in the morning.

0:46:420:46:46

CLATTERING GLASS SMASHES

0:46:460:46:48

'Cardiff Council say they've spent £900,000 on this scaffolding

0:47:030:47:07

'and the surrounding fence.'

0:47:070:47:09

Bit of a rickety old ladder, this. Jesus.

0:47:190:47:22

'I'm beginning to realise that my optimistic thoughts -

0:47:260:47:30

'that making an architectural piece would be easy and not so stressful -

0:47:300:47:34

'are wrong.'

0:47:340:47:36

Anyway, I can't get in. It's in terrible condition.

0:47:480:47:52

GLASS SMASHES

0:48:000:48:02

It's estimated that it will cost £35 million

0:48:100:48:14

to renovate the Coal Exchange.

0:48:140:48:16

Here are recent plans backed by the council.

0:48:160:48:19

Plans for a 21-storey tower block with 168 apartments.

0:48:220:48:27

These plans were obtained under the Freedom of Information Act

0:48:270:48:31

with much difficulty.

0:48:310:48:32

Cardiff Council have been accused of abusing the Emergency Powers Act.

0:48:360:48:41

These powers are normally used in a situation of real emergency.

0:48:410:48:44

For example, if you have an articulated lorry hitting a building

0:48:440:48:47

and it's looking perilously close to actually falling down.

0:48:470:48:50

Whereas, clearly, they've been drawn upon to...

0:48:500:48:56

facilitate certain...

0:48:560:48:58

actions or certain activity

0:48:580:49:00

and then no evidence of work going for many weeks and months.

0:49:000:49:05

So there are some issues here that don't add up.

0:49:050:49:08

'The sound of the capital city, Radio Cardiff.'

0:49:080:49:11

'Not everyone on the council supports what is happening

0:49:110:49:14

'to the Coal Exchange.

0:49:140:49:15

'I went to talk to councillor Neil McEvoy

0:49:170:49:20

'at the local radio station.'

0:49:200:49:22

So it's back to the chat. I've got councillor Neil McEvoy.

0:49:220:49:25

I've got DJ Silver and I've got Nick, back to the chat with Nick.

0:49:250:49:30

-Before I ran out and left you all...

-SHE LAUGHS

0:49:300:49:34

..we were talking about the Coal Exchange and other beautiful

0:49:340:49:37

buildings that are potentially going to be demolished.

0:49:370:49:40

Is that true, councillor? Is that in the council's policy at the moment?

0:49:400:49:44

It's not in the policy but it's certainly on the agenda.

0:49:440:49:48

In Cardiff, in Wales, there is

0:49:480:49:49

a complete lack of respect for our heritage and our history

0:49:490:49:53

and these great buildings are assets which should be cherished

0:49:530:49:57

and saved and used, like you said, for different purposes.

0:49:570:50:00

I think it would be criminal,

0:50:000:50:01

absolutely criminal, to demolish the Coal Exchange.

0:50:010:50:04

It any other country in the world it would be celebrated,

0:50:040:50:07

they'd have a museum, they'd have a visitor centre.

0:50:070:50:09

'This is the council's head of planning, Pat Thompson.

0:50:110:50:14

'He told me why he thinks the Coal Exchange should be demolished.'

0:50:150:50:19

Of course its purpose was as it is, a coal exchange, which meant

0:50:190:50:23

it was for the money men.

0:50:230:50:24

So there is this issue that in actual fact people whose

0:50:240:50:29

history and heritage is in the docks actually resent the people

0:50:290:50:34

who were making all the money on the back of them who were coal trimmers

0:50:340:50:39

in the docks or, of course, digging the coal up in the valleys.

0:50:390:50:44

Because they hate it because they see it as an example

0:50:440:50:47

of the people that made money on the back of their families.

0:50:470:50:51

This seemed like a bad excuse.

0:50:520:50:54

In fact, born and bred Butetowners like Betty Campbell

0:50:540:50:58

love the Coal Exchange.

0:50:580:50:59

When I was a child we used to look at it and think,

0:50:590:51:02

"What a wonderful building." But we never entered it.

0:51:020:51:06

And then times changed, and when I had been married 50 years

0:51:060:51:10

I had my Golden Wedding celebrations in this building.

0:51:100:51:14

And I stood in the middle of the floor and I said to myself,

0:51:150:51:20

"I bet you never thought you'd see

0:51:200:51:21

"so many black people in this place in one go."

0:51:210:51:25

So it was like a little victory for me.

0:51:250:51:27

But another evening that I had here was

0:51:270:51:30

when I retired as head teacher of Mount Stuart School in 1999.

0:51:300:51:34

And I didn't have an inkling of what was going to happen.

0:51:340:51:37

We were supposed to meet here to meet some staff,

0:51:370:51:40

we were going to go out.

0:51:400:51:41

When I came here, when my husband brought me here,

0:51:410:51:45

I could hear steel pans

0:51:450:51:47

and it was the children from Mount Stuart School who were playing

0:51:470:51:50

the steel pans as we walked in and when I went into the hall

0:51:500:51:55

and saw the people there, I just couldn't believe it.

0:51:550:51:58

STEEL PAN MUSIC

0:51:580:52:00

And I think that, with the Golden Wedding here,

0:52:060:52:09

were two of the most memorable evenings of my life.

0:52:090:52:12

The hall was opened in 2001 as an events venue.

0:52:130:52:17

FAST ROCK MUSIC PLAYS

0:52:170:52:20

# The trumpet sounds within my soul... #

0:52:330:52:37

UPBEAT ROCK MUSIC PLAYS

0:52:390:52:41

Then suddenly in August, 2013, in the middle of a concert,

0:52:490:52:54

Cardiff Council and the fire department closed the hall down.

0:52:540:52:57

It's been closed ever since.

0:53:000:53:02

I finally get permission to go inside the exchange hall.

0:54:240:54:27

LIGHTS POWER ON

0:54:410:54:42

'It's great to see Ian's enthusiasm for the building.'

0:55:170:55:21

So I would be bidding to you from here, for example?

0:55:210:55:24

This was the trading floor or just the floor.

0:55:240:55:26

This was the place where if you were standing you could actually

0:55:260:55:30

trade with people up there on the balcony.

0:55:300:55:32

So a man out there could come out and say, "I've got a ship

0:55:320:55:36

"going to Norway, leaving within two days, taking 1,000 tonnes of coal.

0:55:360:55:43

"What's the best price for it?" And people down here would bid for that.

0:55:430:55:46

And then at the same time other people would come in and do

0:55:460:55:49

deals with them about supplies for them and things like that.

0:55:490:55:53

Railway companies, paint companies for ships now.

0:55:530:55:57

People who sold pit props.

0:55:580:56:00

Because the boats went out with coal

0:56:000:56:02

and came back with pit props from Norway.

0:56:020:56:06

Often the boats went out and they didn't have a load to bring back.

0:56:060:56:09

Everyone wanted coal so they had agents all over the world

0:56:090:56:13

and one ship at least came back from New York full of tinned peaches.

0:56:130:56:18

An American came here to write about Cardiff

0:56:180:56:21

and he said you could buy tinned

0:56:210:56:22

peaches on the streets of Cardiff cheaper than you could in America.

0:56:220:56:25

Wow.

0:56:250:56:27

So this is how important Cardiff was in those days.

0:56:270:56:30

And the price of world coal was set here, at that time.

0:56:300:56:35

Ian has also agreed to show us

0:56:380:56:39

the back of the clock from the first-floor gallery

0:56:390:56:42

which up to now has been a no-go area.

0:56:420:56:45

Step this way.

0:56:540:56:55

This clock was made by a man who by then was called Spiridion.

0:56:580:57:03

He was a Polish refugee, possibly Jewish.

0:57:030:57:06

And they came over, I think,

0:57:060:57:11

when the Russians were expanding into Eastern Europe and...

0:57:110:57:17

Wow! It still works.

0:57:180:57:20

-It still works. It still keeps good time.

-Does it?

0:57:200:57:23

Yeah.

0:57:230:57:25

It's worth just listening to for a minute.

0:57:250:57:27

CLOCK TICKS

0:57:270:57:28

Six months after we left,

0:57:550:57:57

an investor came forward with serious plans

0:57:570:58:00

to develop it as a boutique hotel.

0:58:000:58:02

The people of Butetown deserve to see their community restored.

0:58:040:58:08

Let's hope it can get back some of the old magic it once had.

0:58:080:58:12

# Tiger Bay, Tiger Bay

0:58:120:58:20

# It's not very far from the docks

0:58:200:58:26

# When you get

0:58:280:58:32

# To Loudoun Square

0:58:320:58:35

# Turn to the right

0:58:360:58:40

# And you're not far from there

0:58:400:58:43

# Tiger Bay. #

0:58:430:58:45

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