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Casa Del Rio

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You're your own Pope.

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It has an aura of mystery.

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In the 1930s, the world fell in love with Hollywood's boldly Hispanic take on Art Deco.

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Glamorous, exotic, high tech and not afraid to show off.

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I'm going to get a taste of the Hollywood Art Deco lifestyle in none other than...Devon.

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Oh, yes, very nice.

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CLUNKING NOISE

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Ooh!

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I'm slowly picking my way down

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a very, very narrow road in Devon, with terrible speed bumps

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so I'm not going to be racing down there, looking for a house.

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And we're passing lots of houses...

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..which are all very beautiful, but not really the thing we're after.

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Trying to find a small piece of Hollywood

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transplanted to a Devon riverside,

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but we may not make it.

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CLUNKING NOISE

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Oh, I did that one better.

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There's like all these secret places.

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Lots of woods. Lots of boats.

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Lovely blue water.

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Very lush, indeed.

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Oh, my... Hold on. I've got to go in reverse.

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Maybe just...

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That's it - Casa Del Rio.

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I was told this was an Hispanic Hollywood-style mansion.

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And you know, I didn't really believe it,

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but when you see it, it is. It's everything it says it is.

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Ha! Including an impossibly steep drive.

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That really is a very, very American house.

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I think I've got the wrong car.

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I need something posher.

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I've got to have a look round.

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It's very Spanish. Well, very Hollywood Spanish...

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..but it's in Devon.

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This big veranda here.

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And these sort of Romeo, Romeo balconies.

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It's a real fantasy dream home.

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And this great thing, this is really one of the big Spanish things

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which is having a patio with these shallow stairs coming down.

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Your, kind of, courtyard

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with these lovely flowers.

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And all this cream reflecting the light.

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And tiled roofs.

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It's a sort of Hollywood Cordoban imagery.

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There should be women out on these balconies, really, welcoming me.

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But, eh. Haven't got the budget.

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Oh, marble. Fantastic.

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It's always nice to be welcomed into a house by a film star -

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Mary Pickford. Oh!

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Douglas Fairbanks.

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Within seconds, I'm in a place

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that clearly used Art Deco to say, Hollywood.

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It's a fantastic stairwell.

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And it's got this very interesting feature, here.

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Which is a sort of iron grill over an open window.

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And the idea of this style, when it was done in Hollywood,

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was that somehow this was a castle that had become a palace.

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And so the remains of the entrance to the dungeon lies in the turret.

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And then, of course, you have this fantastic

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black and white staircase and going up it, it's nothing.

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But the thing about this is you can make a fantastic entrance.

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I mean, not a bloke, obviously.

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But if you swan down here,

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you're the king or queen of this castle and people...

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Well, you got framed by this really very deco black and white floor,

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the black and white stairs, you'd be wearing black and white,

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you'd be like a little Fred Astaire traipsing down the stairs.

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It's fantastic.

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And equally, there's this lovely balcony again up here

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and the other thing you've got is this great feature here, balcony.

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You're your own Pope.

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And the thing about this staircase - it's the centre of the house.

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Anyone coming up or down has to go through it.

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And the whole thing is geared to be looked up at.

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You've got all this strapwork on the ceiling.

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Someone's thrown a card up there, that must have been a shot.

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And then down, you've got this wonderful pattern.

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The whole thing, the whole drama of being in this house

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is animating the people in it.

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Every room has a purpose to make you look good.

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In theory.

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I'm staying for a night.

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The owner, Andrew Pearson, is there to welcome me.

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-Hello.

-Hello, there.

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He's dedicated to preserving the mansion sense of deco drama.

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So this was the entrance to the house, here.

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Here? This side?

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-This was the front door.

-So how did you get into the property?

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Carriages and the early cars arrived at the bottom there by the river.

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And their carriages, or cars early on, would park there.

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And they walked with their robes for dinner,

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along the rose garden, up through the steps, through the rosary,

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onto this terrace and through to the house.

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So that makes sense of this huge facade, here.

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Because the real presence of the house would be announced from below

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and you come up to this turret.

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And the main dining room was through there.

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And then there was two sitting rooms

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which could be used for a concert or other entertainment.

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And then you would move into the house.

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So people came in off the terrace,

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having had a rest from the climb from the road and the river and then took

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a view of this marble staircase and the black and white flooring.

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-Yeah, this is fantastic, isn't it?

-Yeah.

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This is all the original marble

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and the extensions on the ground floor

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have all copied this Italian marble.

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Casa Del Rio was built in 1935 by Walter Price,

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a baker who sold bread throughout the West Country.

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Clearly, he was an entrepreneur

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cos he'd gone to the States to research the bread industry

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and discovered, for himself anyway,

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the value of potentially introducing sliced bread here.

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-So he introduced sliced bread to Britain?

-That's what the story goes.

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And he was the best thing since sliced bread.

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I think history may decide otherwise on that

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because the records around him are somewhat scant,

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but what he did do was to meet with Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford

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as part of his review of the Californian bread industry.

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And it was really that, that he fell in love with the style,

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the Spanish style of house, cos theirs was one of

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the first Beverley Hills' houses on this sort of location.

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They had chosen an area at the top of the end of a long drive

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and built that house, Pickfair, in 1919.

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But what I think is really amazing is that he went to America

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and apart from bringing back sliced bread,

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he also decided to build a Spanish house in Devon.

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There are no Spanish houses around here or anything like it.

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And I mean, if he'd been a normal English entrepreneur,

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he might have built an Arts and Crafts house

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or something like that. But no, a Hollywood house.

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It was the style of the house and undoubtedly some of the people he met

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at the dinner parties and their sort of friends,

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he obviously had a very social time with Mary Pickford.

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Mary Pickford and her husband, Douglas Fairbanks, were the most

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famous Hollywood couple of the time.

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And they built Pickfair, a fancy Hollywood home which

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inspired Walter Price to build his Hispanic take on it.

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He took the concept of a Spanish house, set on a hillside,

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and scoured the Devon river valleys for a site

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and he found this site just a mile and a half down from

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the Yealm Hotel which was the only property there then.

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And he wanted 17, 20 acres on the side of the Yealm,

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facing south west, in a secluded valley,

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where he could have a backdrop of a very secluded walled garden.

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Well, he certainly picked a fantastic site.

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Casa Del Rio is Hollywood upstairs...

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..and Hollywood downstairs.

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So, this is the cinema.

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It's wonderful.

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That's absolutely marvellous.

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And this is created on the principle

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that Pickfair was actually a place of real activity and escape.

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And what they did there was, over a number of years,

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had not only riding and swimming and tennis and golf,

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but they then put in a bar and, if they could have had, a cinema.

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What we've done is to recreate what we think Mary would have done,

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but she didn't like looking at her old films.

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So really, you're developing the theme of the house,

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the desire of the house, to be a Hollywood house.

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-So are these cinema seats?

-No.

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These come from an old building in Wales

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and they were found by my team when we were creating this games area

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and there were some 300 of them and we've picked the best 30.

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You know what this really needs?

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A cocktail and a Fred Astaire film.

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But that wouldn't be a rerun of Pickfair cos Douglas Fairbanks was a

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teetotaller and the guests for dinner at Pickfair were not served wine.

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But her last present to him,

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the Christmas before they separated, was actually

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a Texan bar put into the basement cos it was she who liked to drink.

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-It was a present for her, really.

-Exactly.

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For Walter Price, the house was a monument to his success.

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From the veranda, I notice a lost part of his tribute to Hollywood.

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Course the elephant in the room, in this garden,

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is that this lawn shouldn't be here at all.

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Really, there's a swimming pool here.

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So he'd be stood up there watching lovely people swim up and down.

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And actually, when you're down here you can see, just here,

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the edge of the pool.

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The ground sinks down a bit and it's a bit bleached out.

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But it must have been great cos as a lawn, it means nothing.

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But as a great patch of blue, surrounded by this lovely garden,

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it says glamour.

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Now for something Art Deco exotic.

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It's cocktail hour.

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The great thing about doing a programme about Art Deco

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is an excuse to make a cocktail.

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And there's a lovely book here, The Savoy Cocktail Book, 1930,

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right in the period. Lovely orange and black details,

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very, very Art Deco colours.

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And it's written in a kind of jolly style.

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And it's got lovely illustrations.

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And it's got hundreds and hundreds of cocktails in here.

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This was written against the background in America of prohibition

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though this was published in England.

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And cocktails as far as I can tell,

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in the main, are to disguise bad booze.

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I'm going to make a Whizz Bang which is slightly scarily -

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absinthe, grenadine, orange bitters, vermouth and whisky.

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"Shake well and strain into a glass." So...

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Take the lid off.

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First ingredient, always seems to be...

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a good amount of ice.

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I wonder what the... Absinthe, absinthe, absinthe...

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Well, I have no idea what a dash is so we'll have to improvise the dash.

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Looks like paraffin.

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Next one...grenadine.

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Orange bitters.

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It looks very dangerous.

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French vermouth. That's a third, whatever a third is.

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Now comes the hardest judge of all, two thirds whisky.

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I like whisky.

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Lightning flashes between your wrists as you shake the cocktail.

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Yes.

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Very pink.

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I think you're supposed to do it until you can't feel your hands.

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Now, let's give that a go. The other thing I know about cocktails

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is you're not supposed to sip them, you're supposed to drink them.

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Oh, it doesn't look good.

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Right. Think it's glasses off for this.

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Mmm, cheers.

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Oh, yes. Very nice.

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Can't taste a thing.

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Oh. I'll have another.

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That's like paint.

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Time for the final treat of the day.

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The thing about these Hollywood films

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is they gave everyone in the world access to the same popular culture

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and nothing spread Art Deco culture more than Hollywood.

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It may have begun in France,

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with the rich and with luxury, but by the mid-'30s, it was American.

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It represented a life that most people in Europe just couldn't imagine.

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They'd had peace, they'd had plenty and even in the Depression,

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they had glamour.

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And films like this offered you a view into another world

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which you could only dream about living in.

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# The Atlantic but the Atlantic isn't romantic

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# And the Pacific isn't what it's cracked up to be... #

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And the thing about Fred is he's a polished, shiny gent

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and you're just waiting for Ginger Rogers

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and lots of nightclubs and lots of cocktails and lots of shininess.

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And that's really what you're here to see.

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And the thing is anywhere, even here in the heart of Devon,

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a film was never more than a bus ride away

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so everyone could see them.

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It was really the first global popular culture

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and Art Deco was the background.

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# But we never see the admiral... #

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And actually, sitting in this nice private cinema,

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guzzling cocktails and watching Fred Astaire. Well,

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it's a lovely way to end the day.

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# And what did we see?

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# We saw the sea. #

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In the '30s, they discovered sunglasses

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which is just as well cos those cocktails are shocking.

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Everything's a little bright,

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so I just need everything toning down a bit.

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And these rooms are lovely cos you can see everything.

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Every room has a view and every room has a view of the estate.

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And this is the best view.

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And the rooms are also great because they have washing facilities.

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So you need never come out until you're fit to see the world.

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The bathrooms are fantastic.

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This one's a bit pink, but the best bathroom's down here.

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This corridor's lovely.

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The arches of the doors are matched by the arches through the corridor.

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And just these little arches transform what is really just

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an access corridor into a little bit of Spanishness.

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And the plastered ceiling, as well.

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So, these details really make the place.

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But look at this. This is fantastic.

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This is a proper '30s bathroom.

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And if you're tall, the best bit, the absolute best bit...

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Look at that.

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Anyone... You'd have to be a giant not to fit in this bath.

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I imagine if you're short, it's a bit of a problem.

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It's great.

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But more importantly, the black bath,

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it's important that it's fashionable.

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The taps are all moulded.

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These octagonal forms, these are really, really deco.

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The bright chrome instead of soft nickel is an important finish.

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And the contrast with the green. So you've got black, gold, green.

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The green becomes deeper as you reach the floor.

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And the round sink.

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Everything plays together.

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And then over here, you've got this lovely,

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lovely sort of shelf and a mirror.

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And if I used hairdryers, I'd use this hairdryer.

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So really, you could come out of your room and just,

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as I should really, prepare yourself for the world.

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Time for a spot of breakfast.

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Going to demonstrate a toaster now.

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This is a modern loaf and of course, it doesn't fit the toaster.

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So I'll have to adjust the bread to fit.

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Let's try again. Oh, yes.

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The great thing about this toaster is it's a self-turning toaster.

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In about an hour and a half, that should be nicely done.

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The thing about the '30s is

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you had a kind of birth of modern food convenience.

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You can cobble something together fast.

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And, I don't know, it's kind of urban food.

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People have forgotten that, but if you live in a city,

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you need packets of butter. And the toaster...

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..it works.

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And sauces, these proprietary sauces, they began to be advertised

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with winning by-lines. They became more than the sauce in the bottle.

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They became a product that everyone wanted to have.

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How is a bottle modern?

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Well, you give it an Art Deco shape.

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This lovely octagonal shape, kind of communicates todayness about sauce.

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Are we there?

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Yeah, we are. Great.

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And that's the thing about Art Deco.

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It is not so much a coherent design aesthetic,

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it's a mood, but it's a mood that people who marketed stuff

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were only happy to apply to every product under the sun.

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Do I want that much sauce?

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The answer is yes.

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Let's hope it doesn't spill.

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Oh, yeah. That is great.

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Electric power changed the lives of the middle classes in the 1930s.

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Ian Peterson, curator of the Museum of Electricity and a collector of devices.

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Hi, Ian. I'm glad you could come cos this is an early electric house,

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but I don't know anything about supply in the '30s.

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-Was it easy to get?

-Well, in the 19...late '30s,

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there'd been this massive expansion in the grid.

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Most new buildings were sold to the middle classes

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and they wanted everything to be very new.

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They were exposed to American influences through film.

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Particularly in a house like this.

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And they wanted to have the latest

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pieces of equipment in gadgetry, just like we are now.

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Look at this. This is fantastic.

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Yeah. That's a 1935 Belling.

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Like all manufacturers, they were very of the period.

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They seemed to be influenced by the streamline shapes.

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They're like go faster stripes, aren't they?

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-Yeah.

-I was looking down here and you've got this kind of wheel with

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speed coming off it and with the orange of the elements together,

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the orange and green would be very, very jazzy.

0:22:130:22:16

Yeah, and it's a contrast to the browns of the Bakelites,

0:22:160:22:19

of the majority of the Bakelite of the period,

0:22:190:22:22

so we've got this lovely green pottery,

0:22:220:22:24

to give you a different flavour, if you like.

0:22:240:22:26

-Bakelite. I have got a radio. Come with me.

-Right.

0:22:260:22:29

What do you know about this radio?

0:22:360:22:37

It's an Ecko.

0:22:370:22:39

It's 1935.

0:22:390:22:42

Beautiful Bakelite casing.

0:22:420:22:44

Bakelite was pioneered by the Germans,

0:22:440:22:47

but Ecko built a massive factory producing Bakelite radios.

0:22:470:22:52

For the period, they were state of the art.

0:22:520:22:54

They were wonderful pieces of kit.

0:22:540:22:58

It's humming.

0:22:580:23:00

I think there's a crackle. I'll go round the back here

0:23:000:23:03

and see if we can get it to pick something up.

0:23:030:23:06

FRENCH RADIO CRACKLES

0:23:090:23:12

It's the French.

0:23:170:23:19

It's really clear.

0:23:190:23:21

This is an American toaster.

0:23:280:23:30

Mid-'30s.

0:23:300:23:31

You put a slice of toast in each one.

0:23:310:23:34

This is obviously for a family of four.

0:23:340:23:36

-So this is American, not English.

-American.

0:23:360:23:41

Yeah. They seem to... They seem to be a bit further ahead than us

0:23:410:23:46

on the design of a lot of these appliances.

0:23:460:23:49

See. you put the bread in, you do one side

0:23:490:23:51

and when you're ready to do the other side, you just do that.

0:23:510:23:54

Four slices in one go.

0:23:540:23:56

And then when it's ready, you go to your mid-position.

0:23:560:24:00

-Four people can take a slice out.

-Bingo.

0:24:000:24:04

So, what is this?

0:24:040:24:07

This is a rather lovely electric kettle.

0:24:070:24:11

It's American. And I just like the way that

0:24:110:24:15

they've even managed to get all this lovely Art Deco feel

0:24:150:24:18

to something which is basically a piece of household equipment

0:24:180:24:21

that you use every morning to, I suppose in America,

0:24:210:24:25

to make your coffee.

0:24:250:24:26

And I think the thing that I like about it is the colour of it.

0:24:260:24:29

It's bright and it's not like a utility.

0:24:290:24:32

-You'd be proud to have that on your table.

-Oh, yeah.

0:24:320:24:34

So the last thing I want to ask you about is this thing over here,

0:24:340:24:38

a German hairdryer,

0:24:380:24:40

I didn't even know they had hairdryers in the 1930s.

0:24:400:24:43

This is quite a nice one cos this one's a German hairdryer,

0:24:430:24:46

beautiful chrome body, Bakelite handle.

0:24:460:24:48

But of course, all this demand for stuff, it ended with the war.

0:24:480:24:54

So in a brief phase, from sort of mid-'20s to 1939, you get this

0:24:540:24:59

-blossoming of all these new products for us.

-And new design.

0:24:590:25:02

-And it all just comes to a halt.

-Yeah.

0:25:020:25:05

So they were just getting used to this new wonderful life

0:25:050:25:07

-and then it's all over.

-Yeah.

-That's a shame.

0:25:070:25:10

It is, isn't it?

0:25:100:25:12

Staying at Casa Del Rio leaves me

0:25:180:25:21

unexpectedly seduced by this Hollywood Hispanic folly.

0:25:210:25:25

Bright, loud, showy and even a bit silly,

0:25:250:25:28

it's very Hollywood and undeniably deco.

0:25:280:25:32

As my stay in Casa Del Rio comes to an end,

0:25:350:25:38

I decide to get a final view of this marvellous building.

0:25:380:25:42

Down to the bottom of the garden, to see it from the river.

0:25:440:25:47

It's just like wearing a cardigan or something. OK?

0:25:470:25:51

Oh, yeah. Lovely.

0:25:580:25:59

So, Phil, if you could take us

0:26:040:26:06

downriver a bit so I get a good view of the house

0:26:060:26:09

because I think it's the only place we're going to see the whole thing.

0:26:090:26:13

From the water, you can see the house is built

0:26:220:26:24

on a little promontary in the river.

0:26:240:26:27

And that the house itself,

0:26:270:26:30

the verandas are angled like that

0:26:300:26:32

to look out over particular views.

0:26:320:26:36

And although there's been all this building since, from the house,

0:26:360:26:40

you can't really see any of that. But the actual house itself,

0:26:400:26:44

stands high above everything around it

0:26:440:26:47

and it's obviously just much, much bigger.

0:26:470:26:50

And all these little bungalows,

0:26:500:26:52

they're lovely,

0:26:520:26:54

but you know that's a mansion.

0:26:540:26:56

And as you come round, you get glimpses of bits of the house.

0:27:000:27:06

And I thought you'd see the whole thing,

0:27:060:27:08

but you don't, it's really private.

0:27:080:27:10

From anywhere on the river you can't see very much at all.

0:27:100:27:14

Looking back, you never get more

0:27:150:27:18

than a glimpse of a rather lovely window.

0:27:180:27:21

These gorgeous coral shutters.

0:27:210:27:24

And of all the houses in the village, the biggest one

0:27:240:27:27

has completely disappeared behind the screen of trees.

0:27:270:27:30

But where we are now, the whole house is slowly becoming obscured.

0:27:300:27:35

So nobody's going to look at you.

0:27:350:27:37

I think you've got about three goes

0:27:370:27:40

at waving at the butler to get the drinks ready.

0:27:400:27:43

The one thing you can see from here is this huge roofline

0:27:440:27:48

which does suggest a really big house.

0:27:480:27:50

Now we get this fantastic view of the stair turret

0:27:500:27:53

and it's straight out of Hollywood.

0:27:530:27:55

And it's just so high compared to everything around it.

0:27:550:27:58

And also, just not of Devon.

0:27:580:28:01

You know, it's like plonked here, like some spaceship...

0:28:010:28:05

Stucco spaceship.

0:28:050:28:06

Well, it's just disappearing behind the trees now.

0:28:080:28:11

And you never really get more than a glimpse.

0:28:110:28:13

And it's a discreet place, you know.

0:28:130:28:16

You could be a secret man in there.

0:28:160:28:18

And I think people were.

0:28:180:28:19

Nobody knows much about it.

0:28:190:28:21

And it makes you speculate.

0:28:210:28:24

You wonder what's going on there?

0:28:240:28:26

It has an aura of mystery.

0:28:260:28:28

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0:28:500:28:53

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0:28:530:28:56

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