Episode 4 Connie's Musical Map of Wales

Connie!

You may remember me from a place that was alive

with the sound of music.

Well, I've been set free to explore a much more beautiful place

where the hills truly are alive with the sound of music.

I'm taking a magical mystery tour

to draw my very own musical map of Wales.

I'll be travelling the length and breadth of the country,

meeting some fabulous people...

I used to be where you are.

..all with wonderful talents...

# That will bring us back to... #

..and amazing tales to share.

Hold on for a bumpy ride.

I haven't driven a car in 10 years. It's really fine, honestly.

Famous last words!

# When you're 16 going on 17

# Waiting for life to start... #

I'm slightly biased, but I think this journey will take us

through the most stunning part of Wales -

Pembrokeshire, my old home.

I'll be going back to many of my old haunts as I travel the country

and coast of God's own county.

It's going to be a beautiful ride.

And my travelling companion

is one of the very few remaining Welsh-built cars, the Gilbern -

or Gilbert, as I've christened him.

We'll get there, Gilbert, come on.

His age and my driving have been a challenge,

but I'm confident now I'm back home.

I know these roads like the back of my hand.

Pride before a fall!

As I drive across the Preseli hills

towards the first destination on my map,

I think I've got time to stop off

to let you in to a little secret from way back when.

All those years ago, locals would spot a waif-like girl

walking across the beautiful hills and if they got close enough,

they might even think I was more than a little odd.

I didn't talk to myself but I did sing to myself.

SHE HUMS

Little did I know!

# The hills are alive

# With the sound of music

# With songs they have sung for a thousand years...

I've sung that song a thousand times in theatres around the UK,

but if I don't get a move on, I'll be in trouble with my first ever singing teacher.

The thing about Pembrokeshire is that it has lots of windy lanes

and where I lived growing up, there were many a winding road.

I used to bomb down these roads on the way to choir practice

in Maenclochog and that's where I'm headed now.

# Long and winding road to Maenclochog...

# In the Gilbert! #

So here I am in Maenclochog, a place I'm very familiar with

because I spent every weekend I can remember of my childhood

singing in Cor Iua Newyddion Da.

That's a fabulous choir led by Marilyn Lewis

and they're in there at the moment rehearsing for an eisteddfod,

so I'm here to surprise them at their dress rehearsal.

They sound pretty good, under-12s.

Amazing.

Here we go.

Da iawn! Helo!

Surprise? THEY ALL LAUGH

They're very quiet.

Ffion's face is full of surprise!

-How are you, sweetheart?

-Good to see you!

I used to be where you are.

Can I sit at the back and be quiet?

No, take over if you want to because I'm feeling old now.

Go on, then, give me your best rendition. I'll give it a shot.

THEY SING IN WELSH

Being here brings back so many memories

and my first lesson with Marilyn really cut me down to size.

And I went to the singing lesson thinking, "I'm quite good, yeah."

Came out crying. I was in tears.

At that time, you used to say to your parents after many a lesson,

"I'm never going back again," and they had to work on her to come back.

If she hadn't, she wouldn't have got where she was now.

No, I don't go out to make them cry. It's just...

It is tough love.

If you want to go down into the entertainment,

you know how much of a back-stabbing life it is.

People will drag you down and you've got to be hardened

for the outdoor life.

But you were focused for the stage from the beginning.

You just lived it and that's what I see

in a couple that are coming up here again,

and I really think some of those, you'll hear of in time.

Who would you prefer to conduct you in the eisteddfod tomorrow?

-Me or that woman there?

-Connie.

What?!

Helen Hunt, your days are numbered!

This isn't in my contract, right?

No, it's a dangerous life you lead!

Well, you've got some mistakes so let's see if Connie

can pick them out.

Right, here we go, then.

Believe it or not, this is the first time I've ever properly conducted

and I always thought it was so easy,

but with 12 pairs of eyes focused on your every move

for the beat and rhythm, I'm starting to realise

I don't know my crotchet from my quaver.

# Hallelujah, hallelujah... #

For me and the children, this eisteddfod's no laughing matter.

# Hallelujah, hallelujah... #

If we don't keep the little eisteddfodau going,

there won't be any big ones.

You have to feed the big ones.

Like the eisteddfod in little Brynberian in north Pembrokeshire

is really important.

Very important to us.

It's a great platform, I think, which other countries don't have.

-This is why we're called the land of song.

-Definitely.

And you know what I said about leaving singing lessons crying?

I could leave my conducting lesson in tears too.

Right, OK, we'll work the ending.

Maz, you've come to save the day!

You know, I really think I have!

Well, if we're going to win, we might need your help.

Conduct in a strict four meter.

OK. Conduct a strict four meter. What does that mean?

Un, dau, tri...

OK.

THEY SING

Speak with your eyes.

Yes.

# Hallelujah, hallelujah.

# Hallelujah...

# Hallelujah, hallelujah

# Hallelujah... #

One, two, three, four, five,

six, seven, eight, nine, ten, off!

Yeah!

Ah! OK, there's a part of me that's laughing and smiling.

The other part of me's really nervous because I now have

a new song to learn, to learn how to conduct, learn the words

and learn to clap in time. How am I going to learn this?

I'm really, really nervous.

And there's not even time to do my homework,

as I've got a very important appointment further west

in the cathedral city of St David's.

But I can't resist going the pretty way

to revive sweet memories and pass through some old haunts.

It's a bit weird coming back. It's like a musical time warp.

# Let's do the time warp again. #

Hands on the wheel at all times.

I love Newgale.

Seven miles of beach, did you know that? Seven miles.

Who could get bored of that?

I don't think there's anything nicer for me than to come home

and come to Newgale.

I used time out here as a teenager. This was my misspent youth.

Hanging around, did a bit of body boarding, once maybe...

Throw pebbles at bottles, have bonfires, barbecues,

bit of camping. What more could you want?

Ah, maybe a bit of singing as well.

Even the summers were hotter back then - but enough nostalgia already,

as I'm moving seamlessly on from Beach Boys to choir boys.

I'm heading up the coast road to a very different place

with a very different musical tradition.

ORGAN MUSIC PLAYS

St David's cathedral has resounded to the chords of celestial music

for over six centuries.

Tens of thousands of worshippers and some amazing musicians

have made music within these hallowed walls.

I haven't been here since I was a teenager

with the John S Davies choir.

We came here to perform Handel's Messiah. You know the one...

SHE VOCALISES

That one. You can hear the beautiful acoustic.

The only trouble was, I wasn't really happy

stood in the front row with the Messiah in front of me.

I wanted to give it all that...

That wasn't really allowed in the choir.

# Hallelujah, hallelujah

# Hallelujah, hallelujah... #

And if there's one instrument other than the human voice

that feels perfect here, it's the organ.

I've got an appointment with cathedral organist, Alex Mason.

He might even let me have a go.

Alex, thank you so much for meeting with me.

You're possible the hottest organist I've met, quite young.

Tell me, what's the actual link between the organ

and music in worship? Why not a flute, why not a fiddle?

The reason the organ won the day was because of its sheer power

and as congregations grew,

you needed an instrument which could lead hymn singing.

An observation, playing the organ is quite a dance, isn't it?

You're sat there and your legs don't actually touch the ground.

Organists are probably the most athletic musicians on the planet.

And you've to be able to almost balance from your sitting bones

and reach the keys and use your feet at the same time.

-So you've got a good six-pack.

-Absolutely, yes.

I was wondering if you could teach me maybe a tune on the organ.

I think so. Shall we go on up?

Let's do it.

After you.

So we're in the nerve centre where the magic happens,

where the music all happens.

Where do you start? What do all these knobs do?

Each one controls a different sound on the organ.

We've got some which are called flutes.

-I play one of those.

-And they sound like flutes really.

HE PLAYS NOTES

Very serene, lovely.

On top of the one, two, three, four layers, there are 30 stops.

You've got, what, 15 pedals as well.

We've got a whole keyboard down here

so I can play tunes or just baselines with my feet.

Listen to this.

LOW, GRINDING NOISES

I don't know what to say to that really.

That was a surprise for an organ.

What's your favourite sound the organ makes?

I love the power of the full organ.

POWERFUL, VOLUMINOUS MUSIC

I love it and your feet are doing a tip-tap dance routine.

Yes, the feet are going too.

-OK.

-Shall we swap places?

-OK, fine.

The gloves are off. That's it.

-Pull out all the stops for this.

-Are you having all the stops?

-I was joking!

-Go on, do it, just play a really big chord.

LOUD CHORD

Yeah, now with your left foot, play the bottom C down there.

-Can you see that?

-Yeah, the bottom C.

-No!

-Now put that chord on top.

-So these are notes as well as these?

-Yeah, exactly.

DENSE AND DRAMATIC MUSIC

-Wow!

-Great! Shall we try a piece.

-Do you know Baa Baa Black Sheep?

-Yes, I think I do.

OK, shall I do the chord and you do the right hand.

Three, and...

SONG: "Baa Baa Black Sheep"

Right.

-I love it!

-Brilliant!

Well, I think if I keep working at it, one day I'll rival Alex.

Or, maybe not!

But no time for an encore as Gilbert and I are back on the road again

heading some 20 miles further up the coast.

But my vintage ride seems to be having a bit of a senior moment.

It's a bit worrying when Gilbert does that,

especially with the big silage lorry going past.

This part of Pembrokeshire has been hugely influenced by the sea,

in work, play and music.

My next port of call, Fishguard, has been a port for centuries,

welcoming sailors, travellers and a range of musical influences.

All my life, I've lived in Pembrokeshire and I've never been down here.

I'm about to discover exactly what I've be missing,

as I find out about the local tradition of singing sea shanties.

# In Yarmouth town, there lived a man

# And he kept the tavern by the Strand

# The landlord had a daughter fair

# A plump little girl with long, blonde hair...#

Sea shanties like this were heard on ships and in port.

Gary Jones is determined that they still be heard for many a year.

What we have got here is a port which, at one time,

had 150 sailing ships.

Sea shanties are work songs.

The guys who used to work the ships here were known for singing as they worked.

The whole idea is if you've got a beat, you are busy pulling together.

One, two, three, one, two, three and so on.

And different songs for different jobs.

So you had long-haul, short-haul, pump shanty...

If you're working the pump you worked a different tune, different beat.

It was always said that the sea shanty could improve their performance by 25%.

-Really?

-So if your crew men all pulled together,

a sea shanty would make them work quicker and better.

-I should do it while I'm cleaning, I'd get more done.

-I think you could.

So can anyone join in on the sea shanty?

Yes, you don't have to know the words at all.

Only one person knows the words and that's the shanty man,

he sings the verse and the chorus you pick up.

# In South Australia I was born.

# Heave away, haul away!

# In South Australia round Cape Horn

# Bound for South Australia

# Haul away, you rowing kings

# Heave away, haul away!

# All the way you'll hear me sing

# We're bound for South Australia. #

-What's unique about the sea shanty in Fishguard?

-It's the only place

where you've got a weekly folk music session in probably the whole of west Wales.

-And that happens in these pubs?

-It happens in these pubs.

# Haul away...

It would have been on board ship years ago,

but nowadays it's pubs and it's spontaneous

and it's traditional and it's not a revival, it's something that's always happened

and still keeps going, which is nice.

-Why keep this traditional alive, then?

-It's really good fun!

OK, girls, we're gonna get a lot of action in this.

This is a hauling shanty and we're gonna haul a mast up aloft.

-OK? Are you ready?

-Arr.

-Arr.

# One hundred years on an eastern shore

# Oh, yes, oh!

# One hundred years on an eastern shore

# One hundred years ago

# When first I went away to sea

# Oh, yes, oh!

# My girl said she'd be true to me

# One hundred years ago! #

-Oi!

-Hey!

What's this?

Oh, thank you!

Swept away at sea!

I got my crab!

To be honest, sea shanties were a closed songbook to me

but after this, I'll be whistling them as I work.

Fuelled by sea shanty and sea food,

Gilbert and I are nearly at the end of the road as we head back inland.

I've got a couple more stops before that dreaded eisteddfod.

No time for the faint-hearted!

-Woo!

-MAN:

-A little bit slower...

We'll be fine but if something goes wrong,

luckily our next destination is connected with the music of heaven and angels.

HARP MUSIC

Harps are always associated with Wales.

Well, it is heaven on earth and ours are so good, we strung them thrice.

Wales has been the home of the triple harp for centuries

but in the last few years, they've become an endangered species.

I'm meeting Alun Thomas, who is trying to keep the tradition alive.

Alun, we're here in your workshop.

The harp is a traditional instrument to Wales.

Tell me how you would go about making a harp?

You break it down into three different parts.

The neck with the tuning pins on.

The column and the soundbox with a sound board on it.

There's laminates used inside for strength

and veneered on the outside to give the beauty of the natural wood.

Do you think it's a dying tradition?

I think I could be the only person in Wales making triple harps.

I don't know. It would be nice if somebody did carry it on.

Alun, do you play the harp?

No, unfortunately, I don't. My father didn't learn to play either.

He said he was too busy making the harps for other people to play

and get their enjoyment out of the instrument.

-It's all right, I know a man who can.

-Right.

Robin Huw Bowen is one of Wales's most accomplished triple harpists.

I love being serenaded.

-Robin, you are a triple harpist.

-Absolutely.

-How many of you are there in Wales?

-There is not so many.

The one thing about the triple harp in Wales -

is it's still an unbroken oral folk tradition

that has been passed down from the time when it was much more common. It's still around.

Where did it originate?

Originally, the idea of the three rows of strings was an Italian idea.

An Italian invention, really.

A Welsh harpist in London in 1650 brought it back to Wales,

possibly about 1670, 1680

and it became known as the uniquely Welsh harp.

On a single row of strings you basically get do, re, me.

It's like two sets of the white notes of the piano with the black notes in between.

You have to reach through with your fingers to get at them.

-Can you show me?

-Yes, of course I will. Why not?

Something as beautiful as that has to be preserved.

I'm travelling 50 miles to meet someone who recently had the hottest gig in town.

And it was straight to the most exclusive of receptions

in Buckingham Palace, no less.

Wales and the harp are well represented by the then royal harpist, Claire Jones,

who played for the 600 guests.

She happens to be from Pembrokeshire

and just happens to be an old mate from our eisteddfod days.

Small world, big harp.

-Hiya!

-Hello.

-Do you remember me?

-Of course.

-Can I come in?

-Come in.

I met her just before the biggest wedding of the year.

-Do you remember the eisteddfod days?

-I do, more than ever.

I never thought I'd be playing with a royal harpist then

but you don't look so glamorous in this, do you?!

Thank you, Connie!

How an earth do you go from Pembrokeshire to the Palace?

I was asked to perform for the Prince of Wales.

At a private audition and the Prince of Wales stood pretty much where I'm standing here.

-This close, listening to me perform.

-No way!

Is he a bit hard of hearing?

I've performed for the Royal Family and Her Majesty The Queen

probably on about 150 occasions over the last four years.

That includes private performances for Her Majesty,

where she's come into the room

-and sat a few feet away and I've performed.

-No way!

Can I be the Queen for a second and maybe be the serenaded by you?

-Of course you can.

-I'm going to take my seat.

Oh, Claire, would you please play me a tune. I do like your playing.

Wow! Do you know what, your neighbours are lucky people.

There's such a passion when you're playing. Where does that come from?

It's such a huge part of our history and culture and heritage, isn't it?

I think it comes naturally to a lot of us!

-Can I maybe have a pluck?

-Of course, of course. Have a go.

Take a seat. If you just hold the harp between your knees, there.

-Gosh!

-Then just use one hand, followed by the other.

-Exactly!

-It was all a dream!

Or it could be my worst nightmare.

# It's a world of laughter A world of tears

-# It's a world of...

-OK, I can't put it off any longer.

I'm going have to face the ultimate test -

conducting the Maenclochog choir in the X Factor of all eisteddfods,

the final of the Under-12s choral section. OMG!

You film me conducting my imaginary choir.

I'm getting so nervous, it's ridiculous.

I mean, it's only Eisteddfod Gadeiriol Brynberian,

but feels like the Palladium. No, it feels like Wembley.

All they see is my back, but I have to look like I know what I'm doing.

One, two, three...

For those of you who haven't competed at an eisteddfod,

you may be surprised to see that we're the only choir competing.

That doesn't mean that we're going to get the prize. Oh, no!

In many eisteddfodau, the adjudicators decide that nobody is good enough to win.

That's meaner than Simon Cowell and Andrew Lloyd Webber on a bad night.

It would be worse than coming second. I mean, the shame of it!

APPLAUSE

PIANO

THEY SING IN WELSH

# Hallelujah

# Hallelujah

# Hallelujah...

# Hallelujah, hallelujah

# Hallelujah...

APPLAUSE

The official adjudicator's making too many notes for my liking.'

But here it comes. The results are in from the Maenclochog jury.

LAUGHTER AND APPLAUSE

-Yes! Congratulations, guys. We won. How do you feel?

-Amazing.

The adjudication said you had lovely, sweet voices

and you sang brilliantly as a group, so hopefully

we shall go on to win the Yr Urdd National one day.

Caws.

That was so nerve-racking, I can't tell you.

You know what? I'm used to standing up on stage and singing a song

and trying not to forget the words.

When I stood there conducting it, it was like doing this,

conducting, remembering the words, clapping.

I'm not sure I've got an alternate career

but I'm happy it's over and I did my one, two, three, four perfectly.

Phew.

Ha! Despite the doubters, Gilbert and the driver have made it back

to the very beginning and what a magical musical map we've drawn.

Well, it's been an amazing journey.

I've seen some stunning landscape, I've caught up with old friends

and I've heard some incredible home-grown talent.

Gilbert and I have proved Wales is truly alive with the sound of music.

Now it all went so well and the weather was so lovely,

but I did have one or two...moments.

Are you sitting comfortably? Then we'll begin.

# How do you solve a problem like Maria?

Da-da da-da da-di-da di-da.... da!

Forget Geri Halliwell. I've got the new dress.

I'm afraid they don't sing.

-Could you give me Bread Of Heaven?

-DOG BARKS

Not at all.

-Does it matter I look to the road now and again?

-MAN: No, I love it.

Oh, a hill start.

Oh! Sorry, sorry.

SHE LAUGHS

Everyone behind me's laughing.

This driving lark's hard, innit?

Sorry, the door's stuck.

So, I'm here...

SHE LAUGHS

Sorry.

-Wow, and...

-TUMMY RUMBLES

-Excuse me.

Don't... Agh!

LAUGHTER

# Many a thing you know you'd like to tell her

# Many a thing she ought to understand...

-You look a bit Mick Jagger.

-Do you think so?

-Go on, do it, do it.

-I haven't got the lips any more.

-Feed the pigeons...

-And a new Hollywood star is born.

Rock'n'roll. You love it.

Oh, are we nearly there yet?

No, I need a wee wee.

That's all, folks.

# Goodbye...