Climbing Everest with a Mountain on My Back: The Sherpa's Story


Climbing Everest with a Mountain on My Back: The Sherpa's Story

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Mount Everest - the world's highest mountain.

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Every year hundreds of climbers, both professional and amateur,

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successfully reach the top.

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At any one time in the climbing season

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there are over 1,000 people making the attempt.

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Behind virtually every endeavour lies the support

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and expertise of the Sherpas - the unsung heroes of the mountain.

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They guide, carry the equipment, prepare the routes

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and rescue climbers who get into difficulty,

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every day risking their own lives so that others can claim the glory.

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Without them, only the hardiest and most skilled mountaineers

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would succeed.

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This is their story.

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Kathmandu, Nepal.

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Its chaotic streets couldn't be more different to the tranquil

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Sherpa villages high in the mountains.

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It is the home of Ngima, who hopes to give his children a better future

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in this overcrowded city.

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Phurba comes from a remote forest village in the Makalu region.

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Lukla, the hub of Himalayan tourism, is the home of Ngima Tenji.

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Gelu Sherpa is less typical.

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He spends the peak climbing season in the Himalayas,

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but seeks work in Austria and Germany during the summer

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and winter months.

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It's spring, 2011.

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The four Sherpas have been hired by Theo Fritsche,

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an extreme climber from Austria,

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and Jochen Hemmleb, an alpine historian from Germany,

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to take part in an international expedition up Everest.

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To prepare for the ascent of Everest, the team sets out through

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the villages of Nepal's Solukhumbu District.

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Everything must be carried on foot.

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Phurba, Ngima Tenji, Ngima and Gelu

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are not the only Nepalese who are needed.

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A whole team of guides and porters, over a dozen strong,

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carry the heavy equipment required

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for the expedition's ascent of Everest.

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And it's been this way since the very first attempts

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to climb the mountain.

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In 1922, the first ever expedition to make a full-scale attempt

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to climb Everest was made by the British, among them George Mallory.

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Of the 160 men who made up the team, only 13 were British.

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Mallory was caught in an avalanche on the North Col.

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Seven of his Sherpas were killed - the first ever recorded deaths

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on Mount Everest.

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Two years later, the team tried again.

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This time with Mallory was Oxford student Andrew Irvine.

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On June 6th, Mallory and Irvine set off with five Sherpas.

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The Sherpas all returned safely, but Mallory and Irvine vanished.

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Whether they reached the top 29 years before Hillary

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and Norgay has been the subject of heated debate ever since.

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To try and establish the pair's fate,

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in 1999 an international expedition set out to locate their bodies.

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Among them was Jochen Hemmleb.

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On the very first day, a mummified body was found on a steep slope.

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It had to be Irvine or Mallory.

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A clothes tag brought certainty.

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"This is George Mallory."

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-Really?

-George Mallory.

-Oh, my God!

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-See that? George Mallory.

-Oh, my God.

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The search continued, but the team were unable to locate Irvine's body.

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In 2010, another expedition launched the search for Andrew Irvine.

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It was led by Theo Fritsche, a highly-experienced mountaineer

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who has climbed 5 of the 14 8,000-metre peaks,

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and once again, alpine historian Jochen Hemmleb.

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TRANSLATOR: Many believe that Mallory and Irvine were unable to overcome

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the most difficult part of their route,

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the so-called Second Step, a 40-metre face at 8,600 metres.

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However, our expedition member, Theo Fritsche, climbed that passage solo,

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without rope, in 2001.

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He thinks that this must have also been possible

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for Mallory and Irvine.

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Fritsche wanted to establish whether Mallory and Irvine

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could have reached the summit with only the equipment

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that was available at the time.

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TRANSLATOR: In 2001, I approached Everest in simple clothing,

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with just an emergency down jacket in my pack and no additional oxygen.

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I wanted to climb the mountain with fair means.

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From what I know today, Mallory or Irvine, at least one of them,

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may have been on the summit

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The 2010 expedition failed due to bad weather.

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Now, just one year later, Theo Fritsche and Jochen Hemmleb

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are taking another shot.

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And it is for this reason that they have hired Phurba,

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Ngima Tenji, Ngima and Gelu.

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The four Sherpas will search for Irvine's body near Everest's peak.

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The history of the Sherpa people on the south-side of the Himalayas

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goes back some 500 years.

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The literal meaning of Sherpa is the "people from the east".

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A nomadic people, four different groups migrated from the highlands

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of Tibet into today's Nepal,

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where they settled at the foot of these 7,000 and 8,000-metre mountains.

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The precise reason for the Sherpas' migration is unclear

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but according to oral tradition,

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they set out in search of the mythical Shangri-la.

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The vast majority of the Sherpas practise Tibetan Buddhism.

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To reach enlightenment, some choose to become monks

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and enter monasteries,

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where they take vows to refrain from worldly pleasures.

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Twice a day, the conch-horn calls the monks of Nepal's famous

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Tengboche Monastery to puja, an act of devotion in which

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offerings are made to Buddha, and religious texts chanted.

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Young boys enter the monastic community at the age of five or six.

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They will live a life of abstinence and austerity

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and spend many hours in meditation.

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Eventually, these novices hope for spiritual illumination - or nirvana.

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The Sherpa word for Everest if "Chomolungma" -

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goddess mother of the world.

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So many choose to live high in the mountains above 3,000 metres,

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as close to the seat of the gods as possible.

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And for them, hard work in the fields is their perpetual

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high-altitude training.

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Sherpas breath more efficiently at high altitude.

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Their pulmonary blood pressure rises less than that of other climbers.

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Scientific studies have found that Sherpas have at least ten genes

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specifically adapted to high-altitude living.

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MEN CONVERSE IN NEPALI

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At 4,000 metres, the reduced air pressure provides 40% less oxygen

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than at sea level.

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This can lead to an accumulation of fluid in the lungs,

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which results in high-altitude sickness and death.

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But the Sherpas' genetic structure reduces these effects

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at high altitudes.

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This makes them invaluable for any attempt on Everest.

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Nevertheless, the Sherpas, along with the rest of the team,

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must spend several weeks acclimatizing themselves.

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So they set off on a trek for Island Peak - a gentler climb

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much favoured by less experienced mountaineers.

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At nearly 6,200 metres, it is the perfect preparation

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for the climb up Everest.

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Phurba's nickname among his peers is Turbo.

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He's always among the first on the mountain

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and has an impressive record.

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TRANSLATOR: I've reached the summit of Everest three times,

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as well as from five or six more ascents.

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I've also stood on Annapurna four times, on the Baruntse, the Makalu

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and on many peaks along the Indian and Pakistani border, and on Manaslu.

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A few days later and the acclimatization is almost complete.

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Yeah, baby!

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Theo.

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As they reach Renjo Pass at 5,300 metres,

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they get their first glimpse of Mount Everest itself.

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Now the Sherpas will come into their own.

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-TRANSLATOR:

-One aspect is the Sherpas' sheer hardiness.

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We have already seen what great achievers they are - how able

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they are to push to great heights in a short time.

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We westerners require much longer recovery periods.

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The Sherpas are pre-adapted for our mission because

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they have the ability to exploit brief windows of fair weather.

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On every journey into the mountains,

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the Sherpas tie prayer flags along the route.

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The flags are to seek divine blessing, spread compassion

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and bring good luck to the expedition.

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Tenzing Norgay compared Everest to a mother hen.

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For Sherpas, climbing Everest has nothing to do with personal glory.

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It's more an expression of their religious beliefs.

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To reach the summit of the mountain is merely a way to draw closer

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to the five Buddhas represented by the prayer flags.

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In Buddhism, the path to enlightenment requires

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complete compassion and selflessness.

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For a Sherpa, this translates to guiding others safely

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up the mountain and back again,

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regardless of the danger to themselves.

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Of the more than 200 people who have died climbing Everest,

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a third have been Sherpas.

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The main Everest climbing season lasts for just a few weeks

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in the spring, just before the monsoon season.

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From June to August, daily rain turns the hills lush and green,

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but makes climbing impossible.

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So, for much of the year, Sherpas live a relatively normal life.

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For some, this is a life that has remained unchanged for generations.

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As the spring season ends,

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Phurba goes home, together with his friend Yberraz,

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anxious to see his family before his next job begins.

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Both men have families in a tiny village in the Makalu region,

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a conservation area to the east of Mount Everest.

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But getting there is a four-day walk, and it's only for the first

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few kilometres that the pair can hope to hitch a ride.

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Abruptly, the more comfortable leg of Phurba and Yberraz's journey

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comes to an end.

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Now they must continue their journey on foot.

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Yberraz is growing weary after the long walk.

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So Phurba stops at a farmhouse on the edge of the road

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to buy refreshments - a cucumber.

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THEY CONVERSE IN NEPALI

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Refreshed, they can continue their journey homeward.

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Hour after hour, Phurba and Yberraz continue their journey

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up the foothills of the mountain.

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It's Saturday - market day in Khandbari.

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Once a week, local farmers and travelling merchants

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come here to sell their goods.

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Rice flakes, various types of vegetable and potatoes

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are all on offer.

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Even piglets in handy baskets.

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Phurba is looking for a gift for his little boy.

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It's the last big market on his way home,

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but it's still two days from his village.

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That evening, the two men head off to a local bar.

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THEY CONVERSE IN NEPALI

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The hostelry serves Tongba, a local beer.

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It's made by fermenting millet,

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which is left to stand for six months.

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Boiling water is added and the mixture drunk through a straw

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until all the alcohol has gone.

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Next morning, they continue.

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Higher up now, the land changes.

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The soil is too poor for rice, so the farmers grow corn and sorghum -

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a type of grass grown for its edible grain.

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Sorghum is one of the staple sources of nutrition,

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and is used to make bread.

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But it has another use - from it, they brew the Tongba that Phurba

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so enjoyed the night before.

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It's the monsoon season.

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Almost every day, the sky darkens around noon.

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If it doesn't rain, it gets foggy.

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Mothers take advantage of the shade.

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In the summer, temperatures can reach 30 degrees,

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so as the sun goes in, they bring out their babies.

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By now, Phurba and Yberraz are only a day's walk away from home.

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In the heavy rain, they meet men from their village.

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MEN CONVERSE ANIMATEDLY IN NEPALI

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The villagers bring bad news.

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The heavy rains on the mountains have caused the river,

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which Phurba and Yberraz must cross to get home, to flood.

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It's now impassable.

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But Phurba cannot wait. His next job will not allow for it.

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Now he won't be able to see his wife and children

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for another three to four months.

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So instead, Phurba decides to visit his uncle,

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who lives on this side of the river.

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But to get there, he has to cross one of the last few patches

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of mountain forest.

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Illegal smuggling of timber to India is endemic,

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and as a result, Nepal's forests are declining rapidly.

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Even so, the remaining forest has its own brand of dangers...

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even for a Sherpa.

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It's full of leeches, waiting for a blood donor.

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In no time at all, Phurba's legs are covered with leeches.

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So, with a fern frond, he tries to stop the bleeding

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then quickly moves on.

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Finally, on the third day, Phurba reaches his uncle's house.

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MEN EXCHANGE GREETINGS IN NEPALI

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Time to say goodbye to Yberraz, who will wait by the river

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until the waters recede.

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Yberraz must carry his heavy basket alone now.

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Up in the mountains, it's the only way to transport goods.

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Even the sick have to be carried.

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MAN SPEAKS IN NEPALI

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In the tiny kitchen, Phurba's cousin is preparing lunch.

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While she bakes chapati, a flatbread,

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Phurba recounts his experiences up the mountains.

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Unable to get home to his family, he has little choice

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but to leave his things, especially the money he has earned

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as a guide, with his uncle until his wife can come and get them.

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His cousin prepares the traditional dish of dal bhat,

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rice served with lentil soup and a vegetable curry.

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It's the staple diet of the Nepalese

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and, in its many variations, eaten twice a day.

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THEY CONVERSE IN NEPALI

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As part of their final preparations and acclimatization

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for the ascent of Everest,

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the expedition first climbs Island Peak,

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so named in 1951 by the British mountaineer Eric Shipton.

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Although the peak is at 6,000 metres it's a relatively easy climb,

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and a popular destination for trekkers,

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as well as an acclimatization exercise for more serious climbers.

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The ascent of Island Peak

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is basically just a hike up to High Camp,

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followed by a more difficult climb from there to the peak.

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It's little more than a walk in the park for a Sherpa like Ngima Tenji.

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Everest presents a much tougher challenge.

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But as with all Sherpas, his client's safety is paramount,

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regardless of any risk to himself.

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-TRANSLATOR:

-I've been working in the expedition business

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for eight years now.

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Since 2004, I have climbed Mount Everest six times

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from the Tibetan side, and twice from the south.

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On Shishapangma, I was twice.

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In our work, it's important to not just get our clients to the top

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but also safely back down.

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I hope we can do that again this time.

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All attempts on the southern route up Everest start in Kathmandu,

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and from there fly to Lukla.

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The airport is arguably the world's most dangerous.

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At the north end of the runway are mountains,

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and at the other end a 600-metre drop into the valleys below.

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The pilot gets only one chance. Going around again is not an option.

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It is a busy airport. Not just tourists,

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but everything that's needed in the mountains is flown in.

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During the peak seasons, in spring and autumn,

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more than 30 planes a day use the runway.

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Construction of the airport was initiated by none other

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than Sir Edmund Hillary.

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But inevitably, it was the Sherpas who built it - by hand.

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Just south of Lukla is Ngima Tenji's home.

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But with few roads, it's a two-day journey on foot.

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Lukla is the gateway to Everest.

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Porters crowd the streets, eager for the custom

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of its endless stream of tourists.

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Here, modern tourism comes face to face with the harsh realities

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of life as a Sherpa.

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In the absence of roads and trucks,

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building materials are procured by hand.

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But as a well-established mountain guide,

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Ngima Tenji is wealthy enough to avoid such back-breaking work.

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Few Sherpas are so lucky.

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They make their living by supplying stones for road and house building.

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Ngima Tenji continues his journey homeward.

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No roads, steep valley floors. Life is hard here.

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Young calves or yaks cannot be left outside to graze

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as they do in more gentle terrain, and it's usually the women who fetch

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fresh forage for the young animals.

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In Solukhumbu, as in Phurba's home in Makalu,

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every square foot of soil is used to grow food.

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Here, it is potatoes and cabbage,

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practically the only crops that survive at this altitude.

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Around noon, clouds build on the flanks of the Himalayas.

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Even near the end of the monsoon season, it rains almost every day.

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Although the Sherpas now have modern thermal clothing,

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still their most important piece of equipment is the humble umbrella.

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In July, the average rainfall is 280 centimetres,

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twice as much as Britain's wettest ever June on record.

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Whether climbing mountains or at home in their villages,

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the Sherpa people have learned to live with extreme weather.

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Late afternoon, and Ngima Tenji finally arrives home.

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It's still pouring with rain.

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To greet their father,

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his two children have stayed home from school.

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NGIMA SPEAKS IN NEPALI

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It's the first time they've seen him for months.

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Despite his relative wealth as a guide, nevertheless Ngima

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is still building this small home with his own bare hands.

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Once inside, the children wait impatiently

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to see what Daddy has brought them.

0:29:220:29:24

Like children the world over, they love sweets,

0:29:270:29:31

but today they have a gift of much greater value.

0:29:310:29:34

Next day, the new red umbrellas are carried to school.

0:29:390:29:43

It's a long journey, especially for ones so young.

0:29:440:29:48

The children have to walk downhill for two hours.

0:29:480:29:51

But the way home takes half an hour longer,

0:29:540:29:56

making their daily commute a four-and-a-half hour round trip.

0:29:560:30:01

Ngima Tenji's little farm lies at 2,900 metres.

0:30:060:30:11

The only crops that grow well in the small garden behind his house

0:30:110:30:15

are potatoes and cabbage.

0:30:150:30:17

During the few months Ngima Tenji spends at home,

0:30:230:30:26

he helps his wife, Futi.

0:30:260:30:28

The rest of the time,

0:30:280:30:29

she looks after the family and the fields on her own.

0:30:290:30:32

With no shops a Westerner would recognise,

0:30:360:30:39

the family has to store their year's supply of potatoes.

0:30:390:30:42

Ngima can only hope they will last through the winter.

0:30:430:30:46

But life is not always unremittingly hard work.

0:30:480:30:51

While Futi looks after the children and prepares dinner,

0:30:510:30:55

Ngima Tenji takes the opportunity to visit nearby Pangom Monastery.

0:30:550:30:59

But today is not a day of meditation and prayer, but one of celebration,

0:31:020:31:08

a curious blend of ancient tradition and modern, Western culture.

0:31:080:31:11

THEY SING IN OWN LANGUAGE

0:31:110:31:13

First the Sherpani perform their traditional dance,

0:31:130:31:17

then it's time to get right up-to-date.

0:31:170:31:19

MICROPHONE POPS AND ECHOES

0:31:190:31:22

TRADITIONAL TUNE PLAYS

0:31:240:31:27

A mobile phone serves as a jukebox.

0:31:280:31:31

First, the children perform a dance...

0:31:360:31:39

APPLAUSE

0:31:390:31:42

..then everyone joins in.

0:31:420:31:43

It is a rare break from Ngima Tenji's otherwise harsh life,

0:31:440:31:48

alternating between farming his smallholding

0:31:480:31:51

and guiding climbers up the mountains.

0:31:510:31:54

The expedition has reached north base camp in Tibet.

0:32:070:32:11

This is the first stage of the northern route up Mount Everest,

0:32:110:32:14

and the one taken by Irvine and Mallory.

0:32:140:32:18

Vehicle access is possible here, unlike south base camp.

0:32:180:32:22

Supplies are brought in by truck,

0:32:220:32:24

then transferred to yaks for the onward journey up the mountain.

0:32:240:32:28

The third Sherpa, Ngima,

0:32:310:32:33

supervises the loading of the yaks for the next leg of the climb.

0:32:330:32:37

It will take them to the base of the North Col at 6,400 metres.

0:32:380:32:43

THEY CHATTER IN OWN LANGUAGE

0:32:430:32:45

Tact and savvy are needed in these negotiations.

0:32:510:32:54

Every time they weigh the loads,

0:32:540:32:56

the Tibetan aides come up with different results.

0:32:560:32:59

Finally, all the pieces have been weighed,

0:33:030:33:06

and all differences cleared up.

0:33:060:33:08

Now, the yaks can be loaded for the ascent to the ABC,

0:33:080:33:12

the Advanced Base Camp.

0:33:120:33:13

As always, the Sherpas will look after their clients well

0:33:160:33:19

during the ascent.

0:33:190:33:21

A complete kitchen, including gas bottles and food for a month,

0:33:210:33:25

is loaded, and the yak caravan sets off.

0:33:250:33:28

Past the seracs, impressive ice formations,

0:33:440:33:47

they climb from 5,300 to 6,400 metres.

0:33:470:33:52

YAKS' BELLS TINKLE

0:33:520:33:54

Once there, the Sherpas will set up a camp

0:34:020:34:05

where the expedition members will stay for around a month,

0:34:050:34:08

depending on weather conditions.

0:34:080:34:10

They will set up the tents, cook and wash-up for their clients.

0:34:120:34:16

It's not just on the mountain that Sherpas provide critical support.

0:34:260:34:30

To survive in such extreme conditions,

0:34:300:34:33

months of preparation are needed.

0:34:330:34:35

So, between expeditions,

0:34:350:34:37

Ngima and a colleague carry out equipment maintenance.

0:34:370:34:40

Cooking gear and ropes are checked.

0:34:420:34:44

The most critical equipment is the oxygen masks.

0:34:440:34:48

If one of them should fail,

0:34:480:34:49

in the worst case, it could result in the death of a client.

0:34:490:34:54

A Sherpa's reputation is crucial.

0:34:540:34:56

TRANSLATION: When tourists climb Mount Everest, we accompany them.

0:35:000:35:04

They come as clients, but they soon turn into friends we care for.

0:35:040:35:08

We make sure the path is safe.

0:35:080:35:10

We look after the tents, the food,

0:35:100:35:13

and, most importantly, the oxygen bottles.

0:35:130:35:16

When clients don't make it to the peak, we bring them back safely.

0:35:160:35:20

They often come again, in the hope of a successful second try.

0:35:200:35:23

Word gets around. When more clients come, we have a secure income.

0:35:240:35:28

Ngima's home is Kathmandu.

0:35:470:35:50

Its famous Thamel district,

0:35:500:35:51

just a handful of streets covering about a square kilometre

0:35:510:35:55

in a sprawling city of over 50 square kilometres,

0:35:550:35:58

is a magnet for tourists.

0:35:580:36:00

Over 2,500 business are crammed into this area...

0:36:010:36:05

..and it's not just trekking gear that attracts the visitors.

0:36:060:36:10

The shops sell everything a tourist could wish for...

0:36:100:36:13

..from souvenirs to carpets, pashminas to woollen goods,

0:36:140:36:18

and, not least, thangka.

0:36:180:36:20

These intricate religious paintings depict Buddhist deities

0:36:260:36:29

and are used both as teaching aids and as the centre of rituals

0:36:290:36:33

which, through meditation, can bring a devotee

0:36:330:36:36

further down the path to enlightenment.

0:36:360:36:38

Nothing better illustrates the deeply spiritual nature of the Nepalese people

0:36:460:36:52

in an otherwise chaotic and commercialised city.

0:36:520:36:55

When the summer morning sun casts a golden glow over the city,

0:37:150:37:19

it is the temples that are the first to come to life.

0:37:190:37:22

The Swayambhunath, or Monkey Temple,

0:37:260:37:29

is a paragon of peaceful co-existence

0:37:290:37:32

of the major religions in Kathmandu.

0:37:320:37:34

Both Buddhists and Hindus come here to honour their gods.

0:37:340:37:38

Ngima's return home is timely.

0:37:410:37:44

His wife, Dolma, is pregnant, and the new baby is due any day now.

0:37:480:37:53

So, he prepares breakfast for their little son.

0:37:530:37:56

It's an easy task compared to cooking half-way up a mountain.

0:37:560:38:00

Traditional tsampa is served,

0:38:030:38:05

fried barley flour with salted butter tea.

0:38:050:38:08

THEY CHAT IN OWN LANGUAGE

0:38:080:38:12

After breakfast, it's time for Ngima's son to go to school.

0:38:150:38:18

Unlike Ngima Tenji's children,

0:38:400:38:41

he doesn't have to walk for four-and-a-half hours,

0:38:410:38:44

but, in many ways, his journey is just as dangerous.

0:38:440:38:48

The roads in Kathmandu are full of hazards.

0:38:510:38:54

In the morning and evening rush hours,

0:38:560:38:58

the city's cross-roads are a nightmare.

0:38:580:39:00

Getting around Kathmandu is no easy task either.

0:39:030:39:07

Apart from riding a motorbike,

0:39:070:39:09

the fastest way to get around the city is the tempo.

0:39:090:39:12

These three-wheeled vehicles are found across Asia.

0:39:160:39:19

Their exhausts choke entire cities.

0:39:200:39:23

DRILL WHIRS

0:39:300:39:33

With scant regard for their own, or passers-by's safety,

0:39:380:39:42

in a garage on the edge of a street,

0:39:420:39:44

young workers melt metal scraps in a make-shift furnace

0:39:440:39:47

to produce fittings for a temple.

0:39:470:39:49

Hygiene doesn't feature too strongly either.

0:39:580:40:02

Next door, salted wild boar meat is for sale.

0:40:020:40:05

There's no limit to the pollution and noise.

0:40:090:40:12

Ngima is making one of his rare visits to the Thamel district.

0:40:140:40:17

It is here that he will find the greatest choice of pashminas,

0:40:190:40:23

traditional Kashmir shawls.

0:40:230:40:25

After his long months away, he is looking for a gift for his wife.

0:40:260:40:30

Mission accomplished,

0:40:350:40:36

in the afternoon, he leaves the hectic city behind him

0:40:360:40:40

and withdraws to the Pullahari Monastery.

0:40:400:40:42

Away from the hustle and bustle of the city,

0:40:440:40:47

he seeks Buddha's blessing for the imminent birth of his child.

0:40:470:40:51

He lights butter lamps and incense sticks,

0:40:530:40:57

but he knows Buddha's blessing is not so easily attained.

0:40:570:41:00

It is only through good deeds, compassion and self-sacrifice

0:41:030:41:07

that his wish may be granted.

0:41:070:41:09

It is a principle all Sherpas bring to the task

0:41:100:41:13

of guiding on the mountains.

0:41:130:41:15

The expedition is preparing to leave Advance Base Camp.

0:41:250:41:29

To reach Camp IV,

0:41:320:41:34

they must climb the glacier to the foot of the North Col,

0:41:340:41:37

which is over 7,000 metres high.

0:41:370:41:39

MAN CHANTS

0:41:390:41:42

Before they set out, a lama recites prayers for protection,

0:41:460:41:50

wishing good to all men and averting harm to the expedition members.

0:41:500:41:55

Gelu was the last to join the team.

0:42:000:42:03

He is a highly-valued member,

0:42:040:42:06

because he also took part in the 2010 search expedition

0:42:060:42:10

for Irvine's body.

0:42:100:42:11

Figures made of ghee, butter lard,

0:42:230:42:26

are placed among the rocks, that bear an image of Buddha.

0:42:260:42:30

Then, the Sherpas hang prayer flags in all four wind directions.

0:42:300:42:34

A handful of tsampa completes the ceremony.

0:42:370:42:40

ALL SHOUT

0:42:400:42:43

This is a final supplication for protection.

0:42:450:42:47

When the tourist season is over,

0:43:110:43:13

not all Sherpas return to their homes.

0:43:130:43:16

Some seek employment opportunities abroad,

0:43:160:43:19

to better support their families.

0:43:190:43:21

Gelu is one of some 100 Sherpas who spend the summer in Austria.

0:43:260:43:30

For six years, he has worked in the Alps, near Salzburg,

0:43:320:43:36

in the kitchens of the Schmidt-Zabierow Lodge,

0:43:360:43:39

three or four times a week.

0:43:390:43:41

But perhaps it's not too far from his roots.

0:43:430:43:46

The lodge lies at 2,000 metres,

0:43:460:43:48

in the middle of a 10,000-kilometre walk

0:43:480:43:51

that extends all the way across Europe.

0:43:510:43:53

TRANSLATION: Sherpas like to work in the mountains, no doubt.

0:43:560:44:00

For many, that's their only choice.

0:44:000:44:03

And once a Sherpa has worked in the trekking business,

0:44:030:44:06

he never wants to work inside a building again.

0:44:060:44:08

Most Sherpas work as mountain guides until they are 55,

0:44:120:44:15

then they switch to office work,

0:44:150:44:17

which gives them more time for their families.

0:44:170:44:20

The point is to be happy with whatever you are doing.

0:44:210:44:24

-Hallo, Gelu!

-Gruss Dich, Gelu.

0:44:310:44:33

War es anstrengend? Oh!

0:44:350:44:37

Sehr heiss, sogar.

0:44:370:44:38

Heiss und schwer.

0:44:380:44:40

Danke schoen.

0:44:410:44:42

Alles im Keller.

0:44:460:44:47

Alles im Keller, danke schoen.

0:44:470:44:49

Gelu may be happiest outdoors and up in the mountains,

0:44:520:44:56

but working in the lodge's kitchens has its benefits.

0:44:560:44:59

-Machst du fertig?

-Ja.

-Danke.

0:45:020:45:04

Apart from the income it brings

0:45:050:45:07

during Everest's off-season for guiding,

0:45:070:45:10

the skills Gelu has learnt

0:45:100:45:12

stand him in good stead when it is time to return home.

0:45:120:45:15

In the tourist lodges at the foot of the Himalayas,

0:45:170:45:20

these new skills can be used to further supplement his income.

0:45:200:45:24

After years of practice, Gelu has become a good cook...

0:45:310:45:35

..and he has perfected his German.

0:45:360:45:38

Zwei mal Kotelett und salat...

0:45:420:45:44

But it is up in the high mountains that Gelu really feels happiest.

0:45:450:45:49

The team that will search for the body of Andrew Irvine

0:46:020:46:05

is snowed-in at the Advanced Base Camp at 6,400 metres.

0:46:050:46:09

Although the sun is out now,

0:46:100:46:12

there has been fresh snowfall every day,

0:46:120:46:15

preventing an ascent to the search area.

0:46:150:46:17

The climbers try to pass the time

0:46:200:46:22

by planning the next stage of the expedition.

0:46:220:46:25

Their thoughts centre around the question of which route Irvine might have chosen.

0:46:250:46:30

-TRANSLATION:

-Our search strategy is based on the fact

0:46:360:46:39

that Irvine's body has been seen once with certainty,

0:46:390:46:42

but possibly three times.

0:46:420:46:44

The most credible report, in my opinion,

0:46:470:46:50

is that of a Chinese climber, Xiu Jing, who, in 1960,

0:46:500:46:55

saw a body near the ridge, which can only have been Irvine's...

0:46:550:46:59

..since, at that time,

0:47:010:47:03

Mallory and Irvine were the only ones missing in that area.

0:47:030:47:07

Trying to put themselves in Irvine's shoes,

0:47:110:47:14

the climbers hope to work out

0:47:140:47:16

the route he was taking back down the mountain before he disappeared.

0:47:160:47:19

-TRANSLATION:

-I can well imagine that, in a state of exhaustion,

0:47:260:47:30

one could miss a correct turn and would then simply continue

0:47:300:47:33

in the hope of finding a rock crevice...

0:47:330:47:35

Some rock crevice to spend the night, or just to survive.

0:47:410:47:45

-TRANSLATION:

-I suggest we climb up the normal route to the ridge,

0:47:520:47:56

like we did last year, then follow the ridge downward,

0:47:560:48:00

and search close to the ridge line.

0:48:000:48:03

It's not just the snow that is holding back the team.

0:48:140:48:16

The summit of Everest is the dividing line

0:48:190:48:21

between China and Nepal.

0:48:210:48:24

Ascending via the southern route

0:48:240:48:26

requires a permit from only the Nepalese,

0:48:260:48:28

but Mallory and Irvine had taken the northern route.

0:48:280:48:31

This route passes through Chinese territory,

0:48:320:48:36

and a permit is required from their authorities.

0:48:360:48:38

For three weeks, the expedition is condemned to wait

0:48:410:48:45

until the Chinese authorities have prepared the route.

0:48:450:48:48

At long last, the wait ends, the weather clears,

0:48:530:48:58

and the Sherpas can start for the North Col at 7,100 metres.

0:48:580:49:03

Once there, they will set up camp

0:49:050:49:07

with everything they need for the search.

0:49:070:49:10

They have a steep climb ahead of them.

0:49:270:49:29

But in spite of the altitude, the Sherpas move incredibly fast.

0:49:360:49:40

Each of them carries 25 kilos.

0:49:510:49:53

Regardless of the thin air and an ascent of 700 metres,

0:49:560:50:00

they only take two hours.

0:50:000:50:02

On arrival on the North Col, there's no time to rest.

0:50:150:50:19

At this height, the weather can change instantly.

0:50:190:50:22

The Sherpas have to prepare the campsite without delay.

0:50:230:50:26

Around 7,000 metres,

0:50:300:50:32

the camp is in a zone where it can be hit by jet streams.

0:50:320:50:36

Although the sun is still shining,

0:50:400:50:42

the first gusts of wind are making their work difficult.

0:50:420:50:45

By nightfall, the wind has calmed down,

0:51:210:51:24

a welcome surprise.

0:51:240:51:26

In the Advanced Base Camp, everyone is busy.

0:51:280:51:30

While the Sherpas plan the next day's search,

0:51:320:51:35

the first climbers, ant-like, are already on their way to the summit.

0:51:350:51:39

The new morning brings bright weather,

0:51:450:51:48

but Charly Gabl, the Austrian meteorologist,

0:51:480:51:51

has warned the climbers of strong winds over the next few days.

0:51:510:51:55

But the Sherpas are not put off.

0:52:080:52:10

Along the ascent route to the two highest camps,

0:52:140:52:17

traffic is heavy.

0:52:170:52:18

Other climbers have taken advantage of the fine weather

0:52:210:52:24

and are already on the way back down.

0:52:240:52:27

Through his telescope,

0:52:300:52:32

Jochen Hemmleb watches the ascent of the search team to Camp VI

0:52:320:52:36

at 8,300 metres.

0:52:360:52:38

-TRANSLATION:

-The greatest challenge is the environment,

0:52:420:52:46

sleeping in a tent at 38, 40 degrees Centigrade below zero.

0:52:460:52:49

In Camp VI, even the melting of snow is a problem.

0:52:510:52:55

To get one litre of water, it takes one to one-and-a-half hours.

0:52:550:52:59

Putting on a pair of expedition shoes can take more than an hour,

0:53:000:53:04

and then you still have to strap on the crampons.

0:53:040:53:08

For most people, this is difficult to imagine.

0:53:080:53:11

Gelu, von Theo, bitte kommen.

0:53:190:53:22

Gelu, bitte kommen...

0:53:220:53:24

Theo is trying to contact Gelu.

0:53:240:53:27

But it soon becomes clear that the Sherpas have started a day too late.

0:53:310:53:35

Piercing gusts and the biting cold force them back into their tents.

0:53:350:53:39

Ich habe Dich leider nicht verstanden, bitte antworten.

0:53:390:53:43

Communication is all but impossible.

0:53:430:53:45

Again, the wind drives in the fog, covering the mountain...

0:53:480:53:51

..but the Sherpas refuse to give up hope.

0:53:550:53:57

Again and again, they discuss the search route.

0:54:000:54:03

It's very strong windy.

0:54:070:54:09

Wait until it's a little bit less,

0:54:090:54:12

and we try to go off at five.

0:54:120:54:15

Just in time, the wind does calm down.

0:54:180:54:21

The Sherpas set out for the search area at 8,500 metres.

0:54:220:54:27

It's already their second day in the death zone.

0:54:270:54:30

With only limited time left,

0:54:300:54:32

they search the rocky, icy slopes step by step.

0:54:320:54:36

Waere is moeglich,

0:54:360:54:37

dass sie alle vier zusammen den Grat absuchen wuerden,

0:54:370:54:42

bitte antworten.

0:54:420:54:44

Following Theo's advice, the four of them focus on the ridge.

0:54:480:54:52

It's steep here.

0:54:590:55:00

Oxygen masks and snow goggles limit visibility.

0:55:000:55:03

The four search for several hours,

0:55:130:55:15

then the storm starts up again and forces them back.

0:55:150:55:19

TRANSLATION: The search this year was better, more precise than last year.

0:55:360:55:40

We were like a family, and the team-work was really special.

0:55:400:55:44

We have not found Irvine, but we have gained experience.

0:55:470:55:50

One thing is clear, Irvine is not in this area.

0:55:520:55:55

The Sherpas have done their best.

0:56:000:56:02

But with so many rock crevices and snow drifts to conceal a body,

0:56:030:56:08

Mount Everest could hold its secret for ever.

0:56:080:56:11

The expedition over,

0:56:140:56:16

the four Sherpas fade quietly into the background.

0:56:160:56:20

After six months, Phurba can finally see his little boy again...

0:56:200:56:24

..Ngima Tenji completed his house...

0:56:250:56:27

..Ngima is now the proud father of a little daughter...

0:56:290:56:32

..and Gelu spent the winter with his wife and child in Germany.

0:56:330:56:37

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0:56:480:56:54

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