Bothy Life


Bothy Life

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-WOMAN:

-Walking towards a bothy

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when there's smoke coming out of the chimney

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makes me really, really happy.

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SHE LAUGHS

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You've almost got this instant friendship

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as soon as somebody walks in the door, ken?

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I really think they're an amazing system, the way they work

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and the way they're so remote and unique.

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-MAN:

-When you come to a bothy,

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you have to remember it's not like a hotel room that you've booked,

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it's an empty building and it's open for anyone.

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It's just absolutely beautiful.

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It's amazing to come to a bothy.

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Bothy Life goes to the most wild

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and beautiful corners of Scotland to celebrate the spirit of adventure

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and friendship amongst folk who step out into the hills.

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For 50 years, the Mountain Bothies Association have provided shelter

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to thousands of people.

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It's not that great a ride in.

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SHE LAUGHS

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It's really hard when you're fully loaded

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and there's loads of drainage ditches.

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But it's really nice coming into the area.

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You don't have to book a bothy. You don't need to join the MBA.

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And they're absolutely free.

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It really takes you back

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and you kind of get away from the clutter that is your own home,

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and living in Inverness, and it's busy and, yeah, you've just got

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so much stuff everywhere.

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And you come out here and it's empty and you've got the basics,

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you know, you've got shelter, you can make a fire, hopefully.

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-You might meet some nice people...

-Yeah.

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Yeah, it's a real good getaway.

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Pete has ridden out to join Jenny and Jim for a big bike ride tomorrow.

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-Aye aye! How're you doing?

-Hey!

-Hey!

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-Good cycle in?

-Aye, cracking.

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Tarred single-track.

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I always forget how good it is.

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BAGPIPE PLAYS

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It's beautiful, isn't it?

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Beautiful views, lovely weather,

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nice warm deep pools to swim in.

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If the Highlands aren't about freedom,

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and make your own decisions and get out

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and live the life you want to live in the space you inhabit...

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then, you know, what are they?

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You know, you can go up in the mountains and stay in a tent

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and you can survive, but...

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..you can go and stay in a bothy...

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..it's the difference between...

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..existing in the mountain space...

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..and really making yourself at home.

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ALARM BEEPS

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It's seven in the morning.

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Time to wake up and smell the bothy!

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-So we've come up here and we're staying in the bothy there.

-Mm-hm.

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And there's meant to be some sweet little snaking

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single-track around this loch.

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And then we're going to charge over the Bealach

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and Jim is going to show us that famous backflip

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-off the stepping stones.

-JENNY CHUCKLES

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Would it be an idea to go all the way down, drop down here,

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and then come back round so we could leave our bags at the bothy?

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In some of the guidebooks, that is the recommended route.

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It's pretty midgy out here today, actually.

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There's not very much wind and they're just biting away at us.

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So just using a bit of spray to keep them off.

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The remoteness is one of the appeals.

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You know, you come out here

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and there's a good chance you're not going to come across anyone else

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and you've kind of got the place to yourself. It's pretty special.

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You have to be pretty proficient at sort of bunny-hopping your bike.

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Or at least unweighting the back wheel.

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If not, you can be prone to punctures.

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So the ride in is lovely, but you have to be quite skilful.

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Each MBA bothy has a maintenance organiser

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who is responsible for looking after it.

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They're all unpaid volunteers.

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There is absolutely no road here. Nothing.

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It's just carry it or... it doesn't get here.

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I thought it was about time to get some new chairs,

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so instead of getting something brand-new,

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I got something in an old house clearance.

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An old gent in Kinlochbervie had died and I got hold of some chairs

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and I thought they'd be just the job for this place.

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So I tied them onto a pack frame and walked them out here.

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And hopefully we'll be sitting on them tonight having a dram.

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It's in the middle of a vast moor surrounded by mountains.

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And it's very, very remote.

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And eventually, you see just a tiny little red chimneypot

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sticking above this vast moor, and that's Strathchailleach.

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This bothy was built in Victorian times for estate workers to live in.

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People tend to stop here who are walking on their way to Cape Wrath,

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because Cape Wrath is only about 10km up that way.

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There aren't that many people come here.

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And you get strange folks coming...

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Well, not strange, but adventurous folks.

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Like, last night,

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there were two guys appeared over there carrying surfboards,

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would you believe? And they'd been surfing down at Sandwood Bay.

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I said, "Well, why bring your surfboards?

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"Why not just leave them down there? Nobody would pinch them."

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"Oh, we're going on to Cape Wrath

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"and we're going to surf at Kervaig beach."

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And as you see, it's quite windy today,

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and they'd got their wetsuits with them and their surfboards.

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And they were going to hike over that vast moor

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all the way just so they could surf.

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WAVES CRASH

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# Oh, the wanderlust is on me

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# And tonight I strike the trail

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# And the morning sun will find me

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# In the lovely Lomond Vale. #

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Post-war, better public transport and a sense of adventure brought

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more folk out of the big cities and into the mountains.

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# Highland glens and bracken bens

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# To greet the isles we love the best. #

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-MAN:

-In the '50s there were just a handful of people

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going out to the hills,

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and we would all start off in Bon Accord Square, in Aberdeen,

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where the buses started off.

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We would all be standing around the buses with rucksacks

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and we would go from group to group

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trying to decide where we would want to go that weekend.

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I had a white anorak, which was for snow troops during the war.

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But it was hopeless in rain.

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It was very basic stuff, mostly ex-army.

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Skis, too, you could buy for £2.50.

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That was almost two weeks' wages, I seem to remember.

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But these were for ski troops during the war, and that's what we used.

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The Mountain Bothies Association was founded in 1965 by Bernard Heath,

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a keen cyclist, and Betty, who ended up marrying him.

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Well, we met at the original, the inaugural meeting

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of the Mountain Bothies Association.

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You were secretary then.

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-Oh, yes.

-And it was held in an unlikely place...

-Dalmellington.

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It was the Scout Hut at Dalmellington Village, in Ayrshire.

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And...45 people, I couldn't believe it.

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We decided we didn't really want any publicity,

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it was to be very secretive.

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There wasn't to be a handbook.

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People were to look at their maps

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and if there was a dot on the map, it was suggested that

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if they were interested, they went to see it and took a tent,

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just in case it wasn't habitable.

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But we didn't know after all whether it was ruinous or not!

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So that's how it kind of got going.

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And people explored various places that they were interested in

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on the map and they came back and reported on them.

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And that's when we had to start going round landowners

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and finding how they felt about it.

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Some were a definite no, others were a perhaps

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and some actually said yes!

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Which was very heartening.

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Today, the Mountain Bothies Association

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looks after 81 Scottish bothies.

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Maintaining so many buildings scattered across the remotest areas

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of Scotland is very challenging.

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Very few of these bothies are accessible by road,

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so most of the building materials have to be carried in by foot.

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Or, if you're lucky, by boat.

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The NBA sets up work parties,

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where volunteers spend a couple of days living in and fixing up a bothy.

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I'm moving the fire pit because it's too close to the bothy.

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And we don't want a... we don't want a fire!

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If the wind changes direction. So... Because they make them quite big.

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And it also lets the ground regenerate a wee bit.

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We do have a problem with people cutting live timber here.

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When there's plenty of wood comes in from the ocean,

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and even just if you walk up to the forest up there,

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there's loads of wood a ten-minute walk away.

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They're a habit of burning the furniture as well,

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which is really annoying.

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Um...

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A bit frustrating, but...

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99.9% of bothy users are very responsible individuals.

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SHE CHUCKLES

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But, um...it's a bit of a pain.

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OVERLAPPING CHATTER

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INDISTINCT CHATTER

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Where's MY bag? Who's got my bag on?

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We come sea kayaking about once a year.

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We've been coming for the last ten years to the west coast.

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We kind of plan trips in bad weather around bothies,

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because even if they're full, you can camp outside

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and use the shelter to cook and hang out. So they're great.

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A lot of people lived in Ardneish until the turn of the century.

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By that, I mean 1900.

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Over 150 people lived here.

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My grandfather was born in this house in 1898.

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So in a kind of way, I'm kind of from here.

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A long way back, but we are, we have a connection,

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on my father's side of the family, to the peninsula.

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Very rudimentary, but we do, so...

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it's interesting to come back and...

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Every time I come here it's...

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I'm grateful I can come here and see from where they came.

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I think that's why I wanted to look after Peanmeanach.

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It's a special place...

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when you come here.

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There would have been plenty food.

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The odd, um...liberated deer.

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And they would have grown crops down the front of Peanmeanach.

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You can see where they grew crops.

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And they would have had cattle behind them, grazing.

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There would have been seafood and fish.

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They would have been pretty well-fed.

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I'm scraping the beards off, which is the little bit that attaches

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the mussel to the rock, that sticks out once you've pulled it off.

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David Holt walked into Peanmeanach this evening.

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It was just perfect. No midges,

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sunny, calm, cuckoo calling...

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Everything was magic.

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Got down here and there's two guys, Dan and Chris, in the bothy.

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Got a log fire going.

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And as I walked in I thought, "I could murder a beer."

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And there were two cans of lager sent by God.

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Actually, sent by some art students who'd left them there yesterday.

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So my happiness was complete.

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-Well, that was great. Well done, Alex.

-LAUGHTER

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-You're welcome.

-Here's to the cook!

-Excellent nosh. Isn't she good?

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-ALL: Yes, indeed!

-Chilli con carne.

-Cheers!

-You're very welcome.

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I could mention good health, but after those mussels, I don't know!

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-Here's to the mussels!

-Aye, the mussels!

-Yes! Well done, yes!

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Yes, yes. And the deer... The deer are now coming down.

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Yeah, here they come.

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They're heading this way.

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They'll come over!

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I've been to a few of these.

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Not as many as you lot, obviously,

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but certainly I can't wait to bring my kids here.

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Cannot wait to bring my kids to this place.

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-On a sunny day, it's fantastic.

-Absolutely stunning.

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WIND WHISTLES

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Bob Scott's, in the Cairngorms, is named after the gamekeeper

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who used to run a bothy here back in the '50s and '60s.

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I came up here when I was about 14. I think it was my first visit.

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And came across Bob

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and he had the roughest tongue I've ever come across!

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And it frightened me to death.

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But we soon discovered, of course, it was just a front.

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Once you got behind that roughness, he was a great character

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and we all loved him.

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He was very intent on establishing his authority. He was a gamekeeper.

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And part of the reason I think he had an open bothy

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beside his keeper's house was so he could keep an eye on people.

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He would stand at the door of the bothy on a Saturday night

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and say, "Where are you going tomorrow, lads?"

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And we would say, "Well, we're thinking of going up there."

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He'd say, "You're bloody well not! You're not going up there.

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"I'm shooting hinds up there on Monday

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"and if I catch any of you lads up there tomorrow night

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"I'll kick your backside all the way down to Braemar!"

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So we didn't go up there.

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This idea that you go up the mountains, you'd learn

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the noble qualities of self-reliance and all this kind of stuff.

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The modern thinking about it, you know. I mean, we came to misbehave!

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We came to get drunk and chase women, partly.

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That was part of the reason. We generally succeeded in the first bit

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but we never really succeeded in the second.

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Then later on in life, I realised that a bothy wasn't most girls' idea

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of a romantic place to go.

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Any lassie I managed to take away,

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it was only once, and she never came back.

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ACCORDION MUSIC PLAYS

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You've come to the best bothy in Scotland.

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This is the best bothy in Scotland, aye - that's us, that's us.

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There are many like it, but they all aspire to be as good as this.

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Are you going through, then, Neil, to Aviemore?

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No, no, no - I'm just going through to Corrour.

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Neil Reid's fanatical about the Cairngorms.

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He is a keen mountaineer, but he rarely goes anywhere else.

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There's a saying in bothies - "A bothy is never full",

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because, especially when the weather is bad,

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it doesn't matter how many of you are in here,

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if somebody else turns up and needs shelter,

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then you let them in.

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Even in the most beautiful mountains in the world,

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someone has to do the dirty work.

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Well, that was another good night in Bob Scott's.

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A few of the guys up, the regular guys,

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just had a good evening round the fire.

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Plenty snoring through the night, and now,

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I'm off to Corrour Bothy to change the toilet.

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Great weekend(!)

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When my old man used to take me up the hills when I was a wee kid,

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this is where we always stopped for a wee drink of water and biscuit,

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and we'd just sit against this tree for a wee five or ten minutes

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and it's a spot that very often these days,

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I walk straight by, because my legs are a bit longer,

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but it was always when I was a wee kid,

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this was always one of the spots I looked forward to reaching.

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Corrour is at the foot of two major Munros -

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the Devil's Point and Cairn Toul -

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and it's halfway down the Lairig Ghru long-distance walk

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across the Cairngorms.

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This was the first bothy I was ever in,

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when I was ten years old, so to be allowed to look after this,

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to me, is, you know...

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The bairn finally inherits the sweetie shop.

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It's one of the MBA's most popular bothies -

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and it's the only one with a bog.

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Right...

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This is, uh...human excrement and toilet paper.

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For those with Smell-o-Vision, there's a fairly rich aroma in here.

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It's not actually as bad as you think it's going to be,

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although the cameraman may disagree, I'm not sure.

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You'll be delighted to know we don't save the suits.

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Single use.

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So, that's it. One more bog change.

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# Well, a wandering man is what I choose to be

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# I've squared all my debts and my conscience is free

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# There's so much in this world that I'd like to see

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# It's a wandering life for me

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# So I'll head down this road My guitar on my back

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# And I don't own hee-haw so I've hee-haw to pack

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# And I'll listen for parties to join in the craic

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# It's a wandering life for me

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# Well, nobody can stop me I'll go where I choose

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# With no landlord to tell me the rent's overdue

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# And I'll never again suffer nine to five blues

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# It's a wandering life for me

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# Through the glens I will travel with bothies as hame

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# Or sleep under the stars To me, it's the same

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# There's nobody to fight with Point fingers or blame

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# It's a wandering life for me. #

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Just after the war, a lot of people came back

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who...suffered mentally from the effects of the war

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and they started to wander around these places.

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I think it was that he found peace there,

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after the sights and sounds of the war,

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because there still are a lot of people from Afghanistan

0:26:350:26:39

who can't fit into Civvy Street and can't take up a job now,

0:26:390:26:44

and they will become wanderers.

0:26:440:26:46

Strathchallaich is very unusual.

0:26:560:26:59

When the Mountain Bothies Association took over its maintenance in 1970,

0:26:590:27:04

there was someone living here.

0:27:040:27:05

Sandy was in the Army and he was in Germany

0:27:090:27:12

when his wife died in a terrible car crash and...

0:27:120:27:18

Maybe it was after that

0:27:180:27:21

that he decided to escape from the rest of the world

0:27:210:27:25

and he ended up here, which is about as far as you can go.

0:27:250:27:29

I think he saw this as a place of shelter.

0:27:290:27:34

That's my interpretation of it.

0:27:340:27:36

Sandy's paintings still cover the walls of the bothy.

0:27:430:27:48

It's very easy to see symbolism in things.

0:27:480:27:52

But were they symbolic, or did he just like painting horses?

0:27:520:27:55

Who knows?

0:27:550:27:57

I mean, Sandy maybe just copied them out of a magazine

0:27:590:28:03

or something like that, but I don't believe that.

0:28:030:28:06

Out there, cold, black, horrible winter.

0:28:100:28:15

In here, nice, warm fire, spring, contentment,

0:28:150:28:21

and that sort of cosy feeling you get

0:28:210:28:23

when you shut the world out.

0:28:230:28:25

The MBA patched up the gable end to keep the building standing

0:28:310:28:35

and in return, Sandy was supposed to let people stay the night.

0:28:350:28:38

It wasn't a success,

0:28:390:28:40

because Sandy was at the door with an axe

0:28:400:28:43

saying, "This isn't the bothy.

0:28:430:28:45

"The bothy is Strathan, you'll have to go back there."

0:28:450:28:48

-To some people, yes.

-Yes, he sent them away.

0:28:480:28:51

He said, "It's a private house, it's not a bothy!"

0:28:510:28:54

So he reneged on his part of the bargain.

0:28:540:28:57

Those he liked, he would let in.

0:28:570:29:00

And he decided whether he liked them or not.

0:29:000:29:04

I've been mistaken for Sandy, and I'm not Sandy!

0:29:130:29:18

I'm a retired teacher who looks after this place.

0:29:180:29:20

I might look a bit old and scruffy, but I'm not Sandy McRory.

0:29:200:29:26

But, on the other hand, one of the reasons I'm looking after this place

0:29:260:29:30

is that I like to be on my own and...

0:29:300:29:33

..when you lot have all gone, right, I shall light the fire

0:29:350:29:40

and get that nice, cosy little feeling that

0:29:400:29:43

here I am in my own little world, stuck in the middle of a vast moor.

0:29:430:29:48

So, yes, I am a bit like Sandy in that.

0:29:500:29:53

You like to do the same for me, Ian?

0:30:200:30:22

-Sure.

-Stick it on.

0:30:220:30:24

This work party are fixing the roof at Craig Bothy.

0:30:240:30:28

They are making a weekend of it.

0:30:280:30:31

-Yes!

-Hooray!

0:30:330:30:35

We started off about...probably about three or four years ago,

0:30:350:30:38

using scaffolding for work parties, but we discovered it was so heavy,

0:30:380:30:42

we were having to carry it into places or get it helicoptered in,

0:30:420:30:46

so we thought about rope restraint as a possibility,

0:30:460:30:50

because we didn't want to use scaffolding everywhere,

0:30:500:30:53

for simple jobs like putting new slates on roofs

0:30:530:30:56

that might only take 20 minutes.

0:30:560:30:58

To carry scaffolding in is just overkill.

0:30:580:31:01

So, this system is much simpler, much lighter

0:31:010:31:06

and quite a lot of people have got a knowledge of the equipment,

0:31:060:31:10

because it is the equipment that climbers use.

0:31:100:31:13

I'm not very popular up the top, there.

0:31:190:31:22

I had a little bit too much to drink and I nodded off.

0:31:230:31:29

But long before bedtime.

0:31:290:31:32

Some kind soul brought a sleeping bag down for me,

0:31:340:31:37

so I didn't have to climb the stairs and hug myself.

0:31:370:31:40

But I think it might be more to do with the fact

0:31:400:31:42

that I'd been snoring loudly and they'd get a better night's sleep,

0:31:420:31:45

so whichever it was - I think the latter.

0:31:450:31:48

But they didn't get a good night's sleep, unfortunately,

0:31:490:31:53

cos when I woke up eventually, I thought I'd do a favour

0:31:530:31:57

by lighting the fire so that the kettle would be ready

0:31:570:32:00

for a nice, piping hot cup of tea in the morning,

0:32:000:32:02

but I forgot about the flue thing at the back

0:32:020:32:05

and the fire went on, sure enough, it lit no bother,

0:32:050:32:07

but the room started to fill with smoke.

0:32:070:32:10

But...I didn't see that as a big disadvantage, because my clothes

0:32:100:32:13

are so stinking by now, it's quite good to get them smoked, you know?

0:32:130:32:17

You smell like herring, smoked herring,

0:32:170:32:20

you're a wee bit more pleasant than a hill walker.

0:32:200:32:23

But, unfortunately, they've installed smoke alarms

0:32:230:32:26

in all the bothies now, so the bloody smoke alarm went off...

0:32:260:32:30

"Beep-beep-beep-beep! Beep-beep-beep-beep!"

0:32:300:32:33

Like this, I thought, "Oh, sh...!"

0:32:330:32:34

So when my wife does that, she just gets a tea towel and goes,

0:32:340:32:38

"Phoo-phoo-phoo," and it stops instantly.

0:32:380:32:40

So I got my tea towel - "Phew-phew-phew."

0:32:400:32:43

"Beep-beep-beep-beep!" "Ah, f..."

0:32:430:32:45

"Phoo-phoo-phoo!" It went on like that,

0:32:450:32:47

I couldn't get the thing switched off,

0:32:470:32:49

and eventually, I just rammed it with my finger

0:32:490:32:51

and it went off straight away.

0:32:510:32:52

So, by that time it was five in the morning and I'd set the alarm off,

0:32:520:32:56

so it was light outside.

0:32:560:32:58

Some of them are very understanding.

0:32:580:33:00

There are some of them giving me death glares.

0:33:000:33:03

HE LAUGHS

0:33:030:33:04

Venture Scotland works with young people with all kinds of problems -

0:33:140:33:18

problems like drugs, alcohol,

0:33:180:33:19

offending behaviour or difficulties with their families.

0:33:190:33:23

See where that really bright green piece of grass is

0:33:250:33:28

-on the right of the river?

-Yeah.

-It's about there.

0:33:280:33:30

The path is a bit tricky going down from this point.

0:33:300:33:33

Oh! Chilly up here!

0:33:330:33:36

Shall we keep moving? Let's keep moving.

0:33:360:33:39

They are walking out to spend the weekend in their bothy,

0:33:420:33:45

with no electricity, no mobile signal -

0:33:450:33:48

a challenge for any teenager.

0:33:480:33:49

The Venture Scotland bothy isn't open to the public,

0:33:580:34:01

but it is introducing these kids to life in the hills.

0:34:010:34:04

-Well done, everybody.

-Well done. All right.

0:34:070:34:09

-Oh...!

-That was a great achievement, well done, guys.

0:34:090:34:13

-How are you feeling?

-I'm good.

-All done?

-I'm good.

0:34:130:34:16

-Just dirty.

-Well done, pal.

-Patrick?

0:34:160:34:19

Well done.

0:34:190:34:21

And welcome to our bothy.

0:34:220:34:24

That one any good for you?

0:34:270:34:28

Yes, that's good.

0:34:290:34:31

We all take turns of making everybody's tea and coffee.

0:34:320:34:38

We take turns of cooking and cleaning,

0:34:380:34:41

so we've got our own wee chores.

0:34:410:34:44

Me and Louise are cooking tonight, so...spaghetti Bolognese.

0:34:440:34:50

It's a bit hard this time, because the mince is still frozen,

0:34:500:34:53

but we'll get there.

0:34:530:34:55

We'll have a lovely dinner tonight.

0:34:590:35:04

YELLING AND LAUGHTER

0:35:350:35:37

They've helped me tremendously - just...

0:35:430:35:45

Even when they do the silly wee games and stuff,

0:35:450:35:47

you don't realise how much they help...

0:35:470:35:49

There is actually methods to the games,

0:35:490:35:51

but you don't really get that when you're actually playing them.

0:35:510:35:55

No, they do, they feel silly,

0:35:550:35:57

but they're not - they're actually there for a purpose, you know?

0:35:570:36:01

It's to help with confidence and to help us on in later life.

0:36:010:36:05

It's helped me tremendously.

0:36:050:36:07

Och, come on!

0:36:070:36:08

LAUGHTER

0:36:080:36:12

Now that I've been to our bothy, I'd recommend it to anyone.

0:36:120:36:15

It's just waking up in the morning, you're going out the bothy door

0:36:150:36:18

and seeing what's round about you,

0:36:180:36:19

you just don't see that where we're from, know what I mean?

0:36:190:36:22

Yet it's only, like, a couple of hours away.

0:36:220:36:26

It's absolutely brilliant.

0:36:260:36:28

Kearvaig is the MBA's most northerly bothy,

0:36:530:36:57

at the tip of the Highlands.

0:36:570:36:59

It's incredibly remote.

0:36:590:37:01

Cap Wrath is used for the military for training

0:37:050:37:09

and it's the only live ammunition range in Europe.

0:37:090:37:13

They come here and they do exercises on their own with the soldiers

0:37:140:37:18

and also, they use it for ship-to-shore firing.

0:37:180:37:21

And they also have the aircraft that fly over

0:37:230:37:26

and they bomb Garvie Island as well,

0:37:260:37:28

which is an island just at the right-hand side of the cliffs.

0:37:280:37:32

If you go down to the shore, you just see the plane flying over,

0:37:320:37:36

and two seconds later, you hear the big bomb.

0:37:360:37:38

But no, I don't find it scary,

0:37:410:37:43

because I just know they are doing it over there,

0:37:430:37:45

and it's the British that are bombing, so I trust them.

0:37:450:37:47

In the winter of 2002,

0:37:520:37:54

Margaret Davies was found starving in this bothy.

0:37:540:37:57

She died two days later in hospital.

0:37:570:38:00

She was an artist and an experienced hiker.

0:38:000:38:03

No-one can say exactly what went wrong,

0:38:040:38:07

but it is thought she fell ill, ran out of food,

0:38:070:38:10

and just didn't have the strength to walk herself out of trouble.

0:38:100:38:14

I've found, in the last two to three years,

0:38:180:38:20

I'm meeting a lot more women who are walking on their own.

0:38:200:38:23

We met a lady who was walking from London

0:38:260:38:28

and it was her second trip to Scotland.

0:38:280:38:30

And she says, "Before I come, for a week, I'm as nervous as can be,"

0:38:300:38:34

and I asked, "Why do you still do it?"

0:38:340:38:36

She says, "Once I'm on Scottish soil

0:38:360:38:38

"and I'm walking, the people I meet are so helpful and friendly,"

0:38:380:38:43

she says, "so therefore, all the worries and fears just go away

0:38:430:38:46

"and I go back to my work a lot better than I've been."

0:38:460:38:49

I was on my own with three children and money was tight

0:38:560:38:59

and so I used to take my children to bothies

0:38:590:39:02

and hill walking on my own myself.

0:39:020:39:04

My holidays were limited cos I was working full-time,

0:39:040:39:06

so that's mainly the cheap aspect, and the shelter,

0:39:060:39:09

that's why we did it. We did camping as well,

0:39:090:39:12

but it's extra gear to carry when you've got three kids,

0:39:120:39:14

cos I've got to carry their stuff as well as mine

0:39:140:39:16

when they were young, so the bothies let me...

0:39:160:39:19

It was a lot lighter and easier.

0:39:190:39:21

If you go out, enjoy the countryside,

0:39:250:39:27

I think it's up to every parent, if they're interested in it,

0:39:270:39:31

to pass it on.

0:39:310:39:32

Margaret was on her own for ten years before she met Eric.

0:39:440:39:47

They've been married for 26.

0:39:480:39:50

I found her in an Oxfam shop!

0:39:550:39:57

Because I...

0:39:580:40:00

I was asked by Oxfam if I would run a raft race for them

0:40:010:40:07

in Linlithgow Loch.

0:40:070:40:08

Or, at least, that's how it happened,

0:40:080:40:10

and I met Margaret at Oxfam.

0:40:100:40:13

She used to work for Oxfam and she said she got me as a bargain!

0:40:130:40:19

Why don't we sit down here and watch the sunset? Come on.

0:40:310:40:33

Boys, I would like to give yous a toast

0:40:410:40:43

and thank yous very much for all your hard work you've done today

0:40:430:40:46

and the hard work you will be doing tomorrow!

0:40:460:40:49

So here's to yous all.

0:40:500:40:52

-Slainte!

-Slainte!

0:40:520:40:53

And here's to a good night's sleep

0:40:530:40:55

and woe betide anyone who snores, OK?

0:40:550:40:59

SHEEP BAA

0:41:000:41:02

100 years ago, before the car and the quad bike,

0:41:070:41:10

many more people lived and worked in the hills.

0:41:100:41:13

Before this was a bothy, it was a shepherd's house

0:41:220:41:25

and Hamish Campbell lived here.

0:41:250:41:27

I came up this track over 60 years ago

0:41:310:41:34

when I was at the age of 16 to start my shepherding career up in Strabeg.

0:41:340:41:40

In the wintertime, you might listen to the wireless a bit.

0:41:460:41:49

If you were knockie, you might make a stick, get the knife out

0:41:490:41:53

and carve away at the wood, passed quite a lot of nights, that.

0:41:530:41:57

Do a bit of reading and things like that and...

0:41:570:42:00

with Compton Mackenzie's books,

0:42:000:42:02

which I enjoyed reading in the time I was here.

0:42:020:42:06

Many's the time I fell asleep on that couch after a hard day

0:42:060:42:09

when I would be on the hill.

0:42:090:42:11

SHOUTS INSTRUCTIONS TO SHEEPDOG

0:42:190:42:21

Hamish's great-grandfather started working here in 1850.

0:42:230:42:27

Come on, lad. Come on, buddy.

0:42:270:42:29

Hamish is the fourth generation of his family to herd sheep at Eriboll.

0:42:290:42:32

Come on, buddy.

0:42:320:42:33

There was over 3,000 sheep on this farm at that time

0:42:350:42:39

and there were seven shepherds.

0:42:390:42:42

You went off in the morning at daylight and you didn't get back

0:42:420:42:45

until it was dark and you were ready for your dinner.

0:42:450:42:48

To it, bud.

0:42:490:42:50

And in the summertime, you might be out for a 12-hour day, gathering,

0:42:510:42:57

and that was the way life was done then.

0:42:570:42:59

Although the MBA looks after 83 bothies in Scotland,

0:43:210:43:24

it only owns one of them.

0:43:240:43:26

Some of the others belong to organisations like the National Trust

0:43:260:43:30

and the Forestry Commission, but most belong to private landowners.

0:43:300:43:34

Iona and her boyfriend Julian

0:43:380:43:40

both work on her father's estate near Ullapool.

0:43:400:43:43

The MBA looks after two bothies here.

0:43:430:43:45

I remember when I was about, I don't know, tiny,

0:43:490:43:52

I came over here fencing with my dad and we came...

0:43:520:43:55

we were walking around and I came here

0:43:550:43:58

cos I was probably annoying him with his fencing

0:43:580:44:01

and I walked in the bothy and there was still school desks in there

0:44:010:44:04

and really old-fashioned ones, you know, with the ink and everything.

0:44:040:44:07

Children from the surrounding area would walk here

0:44:070:44:11

carrying peat to supply the school fire.

0:44:110:44:13

In the winter when the river was in spate,

0:44:130:44:16

some would cross it on stilts to get to school.

0:44:160:44:19

This is Ben and he's a native breed, he's a Highland pony.

0:44:200:44:24

He's ten years old...and he's very good at rounding up sheep.

0:44:240:44:29

He enjoys it. You put a sheep in front of him and he's awake.

0:44:290:44:33

-He's a good boy.

-And what's Ben's, er...?

0:44:330:44:38

And in his other life, at the weekends, what does Ben turn into?

0:44:380:44:41

A unicorn!

0:44:410:44:42

I grew up on this farm and it's been great, growing up here and things,

0:45:030:45:07

and I've been travelling and come back to work here

0:45:070:45:10

and want to make my life here.

0:45:100:45:11

It's a hill farm, takes us three days to get the sheep in

0:45:170:45:20

and we don't really have any good fields or anything like that,

0:45:200:45:25

so most of the animals live out on the hill around the bothy.

0:45:250:45:29

A few times I've had to carry sick lambs home on my pony

0:45:300:45:34

and I will bring a lamb

0:45:340:45:35

and dump it in the bothy in one of the rooms

0:45:350:45:37

and, hopefully, no-one will find it and put it out for me

0:45:370:45:40

thinking that they're being kind.

0:45:400:45:42

Yeah, he just stays there until I'm ready to take him home again.

0:45:420:45:46

Sometimes when we go fishing on the rock,

0:45:570:45:59

it's quite late when we stop and that,

0:45:590:46:01

we just come in and put the fish on the stove

0:46:010:46:03

-and spend the night here.

-I think it's a good thing as well.

0:46:030:46:07

It's a nice place to have a break if you're working all day on the hill

0:46:070:46:13

and you can still get a sense of history out here.

0:46:130:46:16

You can still feel it from having no electricity

0:46:160:46:20

or having to get your water from the burn

0:46:200:46:23

and it sort of brings you back in time,

0:46:230:46:25

which is a really nice feeling.

0:46:250:46:27

There's no mobile reception here, there's no modern technology.

0:46:270:46:30

You can't see anything from the view out the front, so...

0:46:300:46:33

And you just see the hills and that, I would say,

0:46:330:46:36

wouldn't have changed much since it was first built.

0:46:360:46:39

It's a beautiful, beautiful spot and I'm very lucky.

0:46:390:46:42

Not all landowners are as welcoming as that.

0:46:490:46:52

Back in the '50s, a group of friends took the law into their own hands

0:46:520:46:55

and built a secret bothy without the landowner knowing...

0:46:550:46:58

..so they could go mountaineering in the summer and skiing in the winter.

0:46:590:47:04

It's another couple of miles or so, Ewan, I think we're almost there.

0:47:060:47:10

-Mm-hm, mm-hm.

-We'll start branching off.

0:47:100:47:12

If we head up towards the Slugain Howff,

0:47:120:47:14

which is one of the great fabled secrets and untold stories

0:47:140:47:16

of the Cairngorms,

0:47:160:47:18

and we're in the company of the last survivor of the group

0:47:180:47:21

of people who built it back in... When was it?

0:47:210:47:23

-That was 1953 we finished it.

-1953.

-Yes, that's right, uh-huh.

0:47:230:47:27

It was quite an epic adventure, but it was great fun to do.

0:47:270:47:31

And it's lasted 60 years. Did you expect that?

0:47:310:47:33

I didn't expect me to last 60 years, never mind the howff!

0:47:330:47:37

There were four of us and I remember we were in the glen

0:47:470:47:51

and we thought, "We really must find somewhere

0:47:510:47:54

"that no-one else can find,"

0:47:540:47:56

you know, "and get something really well built,"

0:47:560:47:59

and Jim Robertson was the driving force

0:47:590:48:01

because he was really the builder.

0:48:010:48:04

He knew what he was doing, being a monumental mason,

0:48:040:48:07

so we had a really long scout around about the area

0:48:070:48:11

and he said, "I think this is the place

0:48:110:48:14

"where we do the least amount of building,

0:48:140:48:17

"but make something that's really hidden and well constructed."

0:48:170:48:22

And, hopefully, it's a secret that will always be kept,

0:48:230:48:25

cos part of the fun is looking for it and then finding it.

0:48:250:48:28

Of course it is, yes.

0:48:280:48:29

I remember one time in the middle of winter, I was in the howff,

0:48:290:48:32

nice and cosy, got up in the morning and about 20 yards away,

0:48:320:48:35

there was two guys sleeping in the snow and they'd failed to find it.

0:48:350:48:38

-Oh, well, that's good news.

-Well, it wasnae good news for them.

0:48:380:48:41

It was good news for the howff, but wasnae good news for them!

0:48:410:48:44

HE KNOCKS

0:48:460:48:48

That's the whitest I've ever seen it, I think.

0:48:580:49:00

But it's gearing up to be a top day.

0:49:020:49:04

We're going to go and have a little ski around, see what happens

0:49:040:49:08

and see if we can find a bothy at the end of it, I think.

0:49:080:49:12

If you're staying in a bothy

0:49:120:49:13

then you don't need to take a tent,

0:49:130:49:15

you've got somewhere that you can stash your gear

0:49:150:49:17

and it's just somewhere to get warm as well...

0:49:170:49:20

..which is always an added benefit.

0:49:210:49:23

I think that's the place there.

0:49:250:49:26

Yeah. Yeah, I think that's the place.

0:49:260:49:28

It looks a real... It looks amazing.

0:49:310:49:33

Realistically, it's been...

0:50:030:50:05

..ten times -

0:50:080:50:10

as much time going up as you do going down.

0:50:100:50:12

We've got a sunny, powder day. We've been here for three hours

0:50:200:50:23

and there's only three tracks in it and they are all ours.

0:50:230:50:27

So much of life in the modern world is controlled

0:50:300:50:33

so it's sensible and domesticated

0:50:330:50:34

and there's something beautiful about being out in wild nature,

0:50:340:50:37

there's something exhilarating, it's wild, it's untamed, I love that.

0:50:370:50:41

Every country skier is an optimist and an opportunist.

0:50:530:50:56

And so when you get the good days,

0:51:000:51:01

you've got to grab them with both hands.

0:51:010:51:03

I actually proposed to my fiancee up on Aonach Mor and, you know,

0:51:140:51:19

it was a howling gale, absolutely blowing a hooley,

0:51:190:51:22

and it's exhilarating, you know,

0:51:220:51:25

for both of us, it's definitely a happy memory.

0:51:250:51:28

-Mountains are the contexts of loves.

-I take it she said yes, then?

0:51:280:51:31

Yeah, yeah, she said she'd love to. I couldn't believe it.

0:51:310:51:34

BAGPIPE PLAYS

0:51:520:51:53

This is the Eastern Highland section of the Mountain Bothies Association.

0:52:100:52:14

They're sitting outside Allt Scheicheachan,

0:52:180:52:21

also known as the unpronounceable bothy.

0:52:210:52:24

There are worse places to have a meeting.

0:52:250:52:28

The stove was a bit problematic, it had rotted away,

0:52:280:52:31

we put in a spare... at very limited cost.

0:52:310:52:35

If we all went down at the weekend or a day, really,

0:52:350:52:38

it will need a few...it will need a good few volunteers...

0:52:380:52:43

-Yeah, yeah.

-..at the end of the day.

0:52:430:52:45

Yeah, so nice and simple, very effective.

0:52:450:52:48

THEY HUM SCOTLAND THE BRAVE

0:52:480:52:51

The two Kennys have been bothying and messing about in the hills

0:52:520:52:56

since they were teenagers.

0:52:560:52:58

Aye.

0:52:580:52:59

If there was any deer in the quarry,

0:52:590:53:01

the trick would be to roll a stone down

0:53:010:53:04

and they would instantly run towards the wind,

0:53:040:53:07

so we could tell exactly where these deer running would come out,

0:53:070:53:11

so I'm explaining this story to Kenny here about how it worked.

0:53:110:53:15

Kenny says, "I wonder if it works with sheep,"

0:53:150:53:18

so I get this boulder and rolls it down and the next thing

0:53:180:53:22

I saw a sheep in midair, you ken, absolutely four legs out in midair,

0:53:220:53:29

so Kenny had actually rolled this stone down

0:53:290:53:31

and it had actually hit the sheep.

0:53:310:53:32

About the size of a rugby ball, so I said, "Right, we'll go down

0:53:320:53:37

"and make sure the thing's deid and if it's no' deid, I'll kill it."

0:53:370:53:40

So I was about to set off down towards it

0:53:400:53:43

and the thing got up on its feet and took off.

0:53:430:53:44

-That's right, it took off.

-And it wasn't even limping.

0:53:440:53:47

It was an accident, hitting the sheep, it was just unfortunate...

0:53:470:53:51

Unfortunate!

0:53:510:53:52

-One of those things.

-Aye, aye, I didn't mean to hit it.

0:53:530:53:57

I thought the chances of hitting it were a thousand to one, you know,

0:53:570:54:00

-but there we go.

-I've been trying for years to hit one

0:54:000:54:03

but I've never managed to hit one!

0:54:030:54:05

When your workforce are all volunteers,

0:54:180:54:20

you need to make sure everyone's having a good time.

0:54:200:54:23

CHEERING

0:54:250:54:27

Stan is one of the oldest guys that still goes up the hills

0:54:300:54:35

and still manages to do some incredible things, you ken,

0:54:350:54:37

still a keen cyclist.

0:54:370:54:40

I think you've had two hip replacements now, Stan,

0:54:400:54:43

-have you?

-Yes.

0:54:430:54:44

And probably heading for a bit more surgery to keep him going,

0:54:440:54:47

you ken, but he's still there, come through the Lairig Ghru

0:54:470:54:50

last year, you ken, which in itself is something...

0:54:500:54:54

-something else, you ken. He's an amazing character.

-It's hard going.

0:54:540:54:57

Stan, give me my favourite song. Will you give me my favourite song?

0:54:570:55:02

He'll soon be deid, so you'd better get on with it!

0:55:030:55:08

# Sometimes when you think that you're going

0:55:080:55:11

# To leave an invisible hole

0:55:110:55:14

# Just follow this simple instruction

0:55:140:55:18

# And see how it humbles your soul. #

0:55:180:55:20

-I got most of my bowel taken away last year...

-Aye, that's right, aye.

0:55:200:55:24

..you know, with cancer.

0:55:240:55:26

Aye, bowel cancer.

0:55:260:55:29

Stan was recovering from his bowel cancer and he was walking up...

0:55:290:55:33

The guys here, we were all busy working up in the Hutchinson Hut

0:55:330:55:36

you ken, and Stan...

0:55:360:55:38

you were just kind of getting better,

0:55:380:55:40

you were still getting chemotherapy and was coming up to visit us,

0:55:400:55:43

you ken, nae getting as far as the Hutchie, but meeting us

0:55:430:55:46

at Bob Scott's on the way back down

0:55:460:55:47

cos the guys were walking back down

0:55:470:55:50

and Stan was there to greet us on the way back down.

0:55:500:55:52

# Take a bucket and fill it with water

0:55:520:55:56

# Put your hand in up to the wrist

0:55:560:55:58

# Pull it out and the whole lot you've left there

0:55:580:56:01

# Is a measure of how you'll be missed. #

0:56:010:56:04

-No... Getting past it now.

-Aye!

-Och, aye.

0:56:040:56:09

-But you're still managing to cycle.

-Oh, aye, I still ride a bike.

0:56:090:56:13

-It's easier cycling than it is walking.

-Aye.

0:56:130:56:16

What would you cycle now, Stan?

0:56:160:56:17

What would you cycle in a day, you ken?

0:56:170:56:20

I used to go maybe about three times, four times a week

0:56:200:56:24

-and I'd always try to get at least 150 per week.

-Aye.

0:56:240:56:28

# Now the moral of this is quite simple

0:56:280:56:31

# To do the best that you can

0:56:310:56:34

# Be proud of yourself but remember

0:56:340:56:37

# There is no indispensable man. #

0:56:370:56:40

CHEERING

0:56:400:56:41

CHEERY BANTER

0:56:490:56:51

It tends to be people that value that kind of camaraderie,

0:56:510:56:55

that kind of coming together, sharing an evening,

0:56:550:57:00

singing a song, telling a story,

0:57:000:57:02

and these are the things that are really, really important.

0:57:020:57:05

# I ken ye didnae like it last winter here in town

0:57:050:57:13

# The scaldies miscry us and try to put us down

0:57:130:57:18

# And it's hard to raise three bairns in a single flex box room

0:57:180:57:25

# But I'll tak ye on the road again

0:57:250:57:28

# When the yellow's on the broom

0:57:280:57:31

OTHERS JOIN IN: # When the yellow's on the broom

0:57:310:57:35

# When the yellow's on the broom... #

0:57:350:57:39

It's passing on the traditions that we were taught, you ken.

0:57:390:57:42

We kind of learn the crafts from other folk

0:57:420:57:44

in the bothies, you ken.

0:57:440:57:46

A lot of these traditions and storytelling and things

0:57:460:57:50

-are passed on, you ken?

-Aye.

0:57:500:57:51

# I'm weary for the springtime

0:57:510:57:54

# When we tak the road once mair... #

0:57:540:57:57

Folk dinnae speak to each other nowadays, I find.

0:57:570:58:00

You get kids that are used to sitting in front of a computer,

0:58:000:58:04

playing computer games, dinnae go out.

0:58:040:58:06

-On the phones.

-Yeah, on the phone, whatever.

0:58:060:58:08

This is completely different, you ken.

0:58:080:58:11

# And the yellow's on the broom

0:58:110:58:14

OTHERS JOIN IN: # When the yellow's on the broom... #

0:58:140:58:17

You're in a bothy, you're sitting around a fire, everybody speaks.

0:58:170:58:21

There's naebody sitting on a mobile phone or a computer, you ken.

0:58:210:58:24

# When the yellow's on the broom

0:58:240:58:26

# When the yellow's on the broom When the yellow's on the broom

0:58:260:58:33

# For they're aye cooped up in hooses when yellow's on the broom

0:58:330:58:40

# When the yellow's on the broom When the yellow's on the broom

0:58:400:58:46

# When the gang-aboot folk tak the road and yellow's on the broom. #

0:58:460:58:52

CHEERING

0:58:520:58:54

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