Milton Keynes and Me


Milton Keynes and Me

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This is Milton Keynes.

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And so is this.

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And this.

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With one of the fastest-growing economies in the country,

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it's a place you've all heard of, but probably can't quite picture.

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If you don't live in Milton Keynes, you might see it as a bit of a joke.

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A soulless place.

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The home of roundabouts...

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..and concrete cows.

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And that's how I felt about it when I was growing up here.

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At 18, I left to go to university and never moved back.

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Until now.

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It's time for me to rediscover my hometown.

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For the next few weeks, I'll be living with my mum and dad

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while I make a film about the place that created me.

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-Hello.

-Hello!

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You see, the thing is both Milton Keynes and I

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have reached an important milestone in life.

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We are about to turn 50.

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Enough?

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Very good.

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-ARCHIVE:

-Welcome to a city which doesn't exist yet.

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It's surrounded by roads that lead to nowhere.

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In fact, I'm standing right in the heart of England's secret city.

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Milton Keynes wasn't just a building project.

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It was a massive experiment in social engineering.

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They're not building a new town here,

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but at a cost of £1,500 million, they're building a new city,

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a city as big as Cardiff, and starting from scratch.

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Conceived in 1967, it was decided to locate it

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exactly halfway between London and Birmingham.

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Grid system is based 1km apart...

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A master plan was drawn up,

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which prescribed exactly how this perfect society would be built,

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from each house down to the very last tree.

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From the start, there'll be houses to suit workers, managers,

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vicars and doctors.

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It'll attract young men with bright new ideas.

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They'll work in places like this - AFUs - advanced factory units.

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At last, that's how Fred Roach sees it.

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Well, I suppose we may be a bit biased, but we think that

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Milton Keynes is probably about the most exciting thing

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going on in Europe, and perhaps in the world.

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In a way, the people who came to live there, like me,

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were part of a wild, utopian adventure.

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Two generations on, it now has its own indigenous population,

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and surveys always show people really love living here.

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So why was it never like that for me?

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I used to hate being asked that question, "Where are you from?"

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Because the answer would always elicit a smirk.

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And people would always say the same thing -

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"Oh, I know that place.

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"It's got a lot of roundabouts, hasn't it?"

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So perhaps it's appropriate that I begin my journey

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with the thing that MK is most famous for.

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There's nothing more expressive than the one-way gyratory.

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You can put anything on a roundabout.

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We've seen... What have we seen?

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Windmills, duck ponds, pubs, planes, boats, trains...

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You name it - anything can go on a roundabout.

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We see, like, a roundabout as an oasis on a sea of tarmac.

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They lift our sagging spirits, don't they, on tiresome journeys?

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VOICEOVER: I'm joining

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the Roundabout Appreciation Society of Great Britain on a road trip.

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-So you're all fans of roundabouts, are you?

-Yes.

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Our committee like to come here probably once a year

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to Milton Keynes, cos the whole beauty of Milton Keynes

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is there's a roundabout virtually on every corner, so it's ideal.

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We see this as the Mecca for roundabout spotting.

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I mean, they're all very nice, look -

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we would call this roundabout a Titchmarsh.

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Why do you call it a Titchmarsh?

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Oh, a Titchmarsh is an island in full bloom or there's nice plants

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or trees or a well-kept lawn, but we also call them Monty Dons as well.

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We have the PMT, which is a painted mini traffic island.

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-Tokers?

-Tokers!

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A toker is a grass only, er, roundabout.

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THEY LAUGH

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Clive's what we call a bonking 'bouter.

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-A what?

-A bonking 'bouter.

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That's a guy who's made love on a roundabout.

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That's another thing altogether.

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We-we disapprove of that - the committee does - by the way.

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Here we are.

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Fox Milne Roundabout.

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-I think we should all go over.

-Yeah, come on.

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We'll do a bit of pointing.

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Are you sure about this?!

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There are no fewer than 300 roundabouts in Milton Keynes.

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Come on!

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Far more than most other cities in the country.

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You've come back over!

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Is the modern Milton Keynes really as dull as outsiders think,

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or is this network of Monty Dons

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actually part of something unique and remarkable?

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They do say roundabouts have a zen-like quality about them.

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They do have a calming effect on you.

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Then I suppose there's always the karma aspect.

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What goes around comes around on a roundabout!

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You know, I've calculated that people in MK

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spend 5% of their lives driving around roundabouts.

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-ARCHIVE:

-Queen's Buildings, Southwark.

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A tenement block just 1.5 miles from Piccadilly Circus...

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..where the poor are powerless, the needy neglected

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and the future dark for the children born here.

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During the 1950s and '60s,

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Britain was facing a housing crisis in London and other major cities,

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and 2.5 million people lived in appalling slum conditions.

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This room, eight feet by six feet, is the centre of the family's life.

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Five children and two adults sleep here, in one cot and three beds.

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Conditions understood all too well by headmistress Madge Taylor.

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They're exhausted sometimes when they come into school.

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We take things like darkness... just for granted, don't we?

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We go to bed in a comfortable room, alone,

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we switch off the light, we can sleep.

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This is a luxury in some of the homes that I'm thinking of.

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Milton Keynes was the last of 14 new towns

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created to rehouse people from the slums,

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and it was the largest and most ambitious of them all.

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A development corporation was appointed,

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which would act as parents to this infant town,

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and nurture it into adulthood.

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It was their idealistic beliefs about how a new society

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could and should be that would make Milton Keynes unique.

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The important thing, really, is that Milton Keynes,

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although we're concerned about the beautiful buildings,

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and the design that goes into it, essentially it's about people

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and not about planners or architects or economists or accountants.

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It's about freedom of choice, about leaving options open.

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We don't think that we've got any crystal ball that tells us

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what people's social and economic aspirations are going to be

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during the next 20 years or so.

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The skeleton of the city was a grid system of roads like LA

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or San Francisco, but without traffic lights to slow you down.

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Spread over 90 square kilometres, each one-kilometre square

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was filled in like a giant bingo card,

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with the ingredients for a perfect society.

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A school. A doctor's surgery. A smattering of industry.

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The housing estates would be set in wide, open spaces,

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where, according the master plan,

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no building would be taller than the tallest tree.

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The house itself and the surroundings

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are really marvellous.

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I have every convenience here.

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A lovely bathroom, two toilets, which I never had in Fulham -

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I used to have to go to Fulham Baths to have a bath

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because the bath was so bad in London.

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I do not wish to go back to London at all.

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This was to be nothing short of a utopia

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fit for the modern world and a modern population,

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and it would attract the most daring architects

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who would share in this vision.

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Sir Norman Foster created Beanhill.

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Four men nicknamed The Pop Group,

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who had come straight out of college, designed Netherfield.

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On one estate, called Tinkers Bridge,

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the architect David Byrne created homes with a decadent slanted roof.

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And I found a couple who are still living there over 40 years later.

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-Hello, Richard.

-Hello!

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-Are you coming in?

-Thank you.

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-Hello.

-Hello.

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Yes, we've been here since they've been built. 43 years.

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-What did you like about when you moved here?

-It's... It's...

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-We liked...

-The open-plan design.

-..the open-plan design.

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Can I...? I'm going to go up here, let me have a look down...

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-You two stay there.

-That's squeaky!

-Squeaky stairs, yes!

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We haven't touched them.

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THEY LAUGH

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Yeah, you see, it's quite a...quite a perspective, isn't it, really?

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You can see why...what we were saying about the open-space plan.

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It feels so, sort of, refreshingly different, doesn't it? Even today...

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Claustrophobia, is that the word - you don't feel none of that at all.

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Yes, cos it's so open and airy.

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It's got a really nice - what's it called - aspect.

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That's right, yeah. It's so spacious.

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Linda, do you remember,

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what's your recollection of walking in here for the first time?

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Well, I just couldn't believe the actual size.

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You cried, didn't you?

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If you looked at my mother's house where I was staying at the time,

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I could fit my mother's house into this house twice over.

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It was... Everything was just on a much bigger scale.

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Erm...

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First thing she said to me was, "You were right about the windows!"

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Yeah.

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I can see why people like Ron and Linda

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felt they'd found nirvana just 50 miles north of London.

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Our house was part of an estate built in 1978

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in the north of the city in an area called Great Linford.

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-Ooh!

-Careful, Mum.

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This says "family photos".

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I can remember standing on this site where the house was going to be.

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It was just a ploughed field,

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and I was lucky enough to be able to go back to the developers

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and say, "Actually, yes, I would like plot number 38."

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Do you think there was a sense that you were joining

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this newly created city?

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Were you aware of that? Or was it just like any other place?

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Um...

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There was an air of excitement,

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but it was still very much a muddy field,

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if you can put it like that, because there was so much building

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going on of the roads and the developments all around.

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I was aware that it grew quite slowly, I think.

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Like other immigrants here, my dad grew up in London

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and was drawn to the idea of fresh air

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and a better quality of life.

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I've always yearned, I suppose, basically, for a village life.

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I thought a village life was ideal

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because it has such a community aspect to it.

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Which we didn't have in suburban London, really.

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Margaret came from a village in Norfolk,

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and that was sort of the ideal situation, I thought,

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for a nice family life, to have a...

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To be brought up in a village.

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So, in a sense, was Mum your passport out of London's slums?

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-I suppose she was, really, yes. Yes.

-SHE LAUGHS

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That was perhaps the truly unique feature of this place.

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It felt like a village, but was actually a city.

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When we were kids,

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my older sister Catherine enjoyed making my life unbearable.

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Like me, she left MK and never really came back.

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She lived for many years in the Far East.

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But she recently moved back to England,

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and she's come to meet me at our family home.

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-So, this is our back garden.

-Mm.

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-Yeah. It feels small.

-Does it?

-Yeah.

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It's interesting. I guess it felt big at one time.

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I can remember leaning out of those windows

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and dreaming of different places at various points in my life.

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Do you remember choosing the bedrooms?

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I remember looking at the plans for this house

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and being terribly excited, really excited.

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Yeah, and you got the biggest bedroom.

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-I was never happy about that.

-No, no, but you wanted your bedroom.

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-Did I?

-You chose it first.

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I remember the house...smelling of paint and chipboard

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and just being totally new,

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the smell of the new wooden doors, and the floorboards.

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It felt very clinical somehow.

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It was, I would say, a bit soulless, actually.

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It felt...empty, definitely.

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Perhaps that's a kind of collective feeling that we had

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together, almost, that I picked up on,

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is this feeling of no belonging, because everyone was a migrant,

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everyone was coming into the city from somewhere else.

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And if you've got a lot of people who've just moved,

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and everyone had really just moved, there is no community,

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there is no sense of deep roots.

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If we imagine, for a minute,

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that Milton Keynes was an experiment in a laboratory,

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the scientists who devised it were hoping to see signs of culture

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growing on their Petri dish.

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As this documentary from the early '80s shows,

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an instant culture needs to be seeded.

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When we started to plan a new city for 250,000 people,

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we started here at Milton Keynes with green fields.

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We didn't have the 1,000 years of tradition that London has,

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we didn't have its sculpture, we didn't have its pictures.

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So we've got to plan right from the start to get art

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and architecture combined.

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You can't build a city just of houses and factories and shops.

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The Development Corporation

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invested in works of public art by famous artists.

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Octo is by Wendy Taylor.

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The Horse by Elisabeth Frink.

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These gave the town an instant sense of being culturally rich.

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I don't think it was about trying to create an impression

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that it was cultured,

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I think it was actually about trying to build a culture.

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They had to invent a new place, and art was certainly

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seen as an important tool in developing communities.

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Remarkably, that original artistic vision has remained intact.

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I've come to the city's art gallery to meet its director, Anthony Spira.

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He's just commissioned the town's biggest-ever piece of art

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to commemorate its 50th birthday.

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It's going to be installed

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on one of the city's best examples of a Titchmarsh.

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So this is a model for the sculpture that Richard Deacon proposes,

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and to have one of the most successful artists of his generation

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in Milton Keynes was very interesting for us.

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So we were really keen to work with him.

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And where will this structure go?

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This structure will go on one of the main roundabouts

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as you come off the M1,

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it's called the Fox Milne Roundabout.

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It will be about 25 metres tall.

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We're hoping it will announce people's arrival in Milton Keynes.

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In the early days, art was not just seen as something

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the public could passively enjoy.

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It was something they could get involved in creating.

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-ARCHIVE:

-In Milton Keynes, the town artist employed by the new town's Development Corporation

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is encouraging ordinary people to do art themselves.

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The community on the Netherfield estate built a gigantic giraffe

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out of spoil from the building site.

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Beanhill residents created a tin man.

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I've either got to take some off of here or some off the neck.

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I don't know which way to angle it.

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The Social Development Department set out from the start

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to encourage artists to move into the area.

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Elizabeth Leyh, an American sculptor,

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has been here for two years.

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People often say to me, "When do you get time for your own work?"

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And I can't understand what they mean,

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because I don't understand what my own work is.

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I mean, I am a sculptor. And I work with the community.

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So I guess I'm a community artist.

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Liz Leyh worked here for five years

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and some of the art she helped create

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has become part of the fabric of the place.

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I've lived on this farm for a year-and-a-half now

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and all of a sudden, a few months ago, I thought,

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"Well, I'd really like to see it stay a farm."

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And so I want to make some cows,

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some life-size, realistic cows down on the field.

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The concrete cows are now icons.

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And who would have predicted

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they would become the most recognisable symbol of this city?

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Docile, bovine ambassadors, if you will.

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But as a teenager, they only reinforced doubts

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that my hometown was a place

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the rest of the country was laughing at.

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After 30 years of separation,

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I'm taking Liz back to see the originals,

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lovingly put out to pasture in the grounds of the town's museum.

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Oh, my goodness.

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There they are.

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Are you a bit speechless? SHE LAUGHS

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Yes, I am. Don't know what to say.

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They've changed their shapes quite a bit.

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People were coming from everywhere.

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People moved here and didn't know each other,

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and Milton Keynes was being built around us.

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That's one of the things I really loved about coming to

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Milton Keynes, that...

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..you're working in a place that's being built

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and people living there can actually participate in the building

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of the city by contributing to public spaces.

0:24:110:24:15

I'm a fan of the cows,

0:24:210:24:23

but I suppose they are an ironic cultural artefact,

0:24:230:24:27

reinforcing the idea that the city is lacking in real culture.

0:24:270:24:31

It makes me rather sad for the audacious architects team

0:24:340:24:38

at the Development Corporation,

0:24:380:24:39

because culture was as key to them as roads and houses.

0:24:390:24:45

In fact, they devised a kind of downtown district...

0:24:450:24:49

..that would have made Las Vegas blush.

0:24:510:24:54

City Club, as it was called,

0:24:580:25:00

was rather like a space-age Disneyland

0:25:000:25:03

for adults as well as for kids.

0:25:030:25:05

Not just consisting of theatres and cinemas and bars,

0:25:070:25:11

but also a souk and a wave pool and even a rodeo.

0:25:110:25:16

I think these drawings reveal Milton Keynes at its most utopian,

0:25:210:25:27

idealistic, aspirational and even hedonistic.

0:25:270:25:31

But it was never built,

0:25:350:25:37

deemed too ambitious by the Development Corporation board.

0:25:370:25:42

This says, "The original concept for the City Club and stadium

0:25:420:25:45

"was to incorporate on one site a wide range

0:25:450:25:47

"of recreational, entertainment, leisure and social facilities..."

0:25:470:25:50

"..to encourage participation at a local level

0:25:500:25:52

"by positive pricing policies...

0:25:520:25:54

"..to avoid regimented institutional control."

0:25:560:25:59

HE CHUCKLES

0:25:590:26:00

It's interesting, the vision of City Club,

0:26:000:26:03

bold and imaginative as it was, wasn't very practical, surely.

0:26:030:26:07

Is that a criticism or...?

0:26:090:26:11

THEY LAUGH

0:26:110:26:13

I think what was so exciting was that this was a group of

0:26:130:26:17

some of the most innovative, dynamic, well-connected architects

0:26:170:26:22

and designers of their day who were given a blank sheet of paper

0:26:220:26:26

to dream their dreams.

0:26:260:26:28

And it's amazing that any of it was built at all.

0:26:280:26:31

City Club may never have become a reality,

0:26:340:26:37

but the utopian ideals of Milton Keynes live on

0:26:370:26:40

in another institution which arrived in the city in 1969.

0:26:400:26:44

What I'm going to do now is to try

0:26:520:26:53

and shoot a pellet into the tube thing on top of the glider,

0:26:530:26:56

which is there only to catch the pellet,

0:26:560:26:58

so it doesn't go flying round the studio,

0:26:580:27:00

slaughtering everybody and sundry.

0:27:000:27:02

The Open University gave the opportunity for

0:27:060:27:09

advanced learning to everyone at a time

0:27:090:27:11

when it was really just a preserve of the middle classes.

0:27:110:27:15

Just when I thought I could do it, along came the second unit,

0:27:150:27:18

and that was on relativity, and that really floored me.

0:27:180:27:21

The Open University's philosophy of inclusivity

0:27:240:27:27

chimed with that of the town's planners.

0:27:270:27:29

But despite the Development Corporation's best endeavours,

0:27:330:27:36

by the early '80s,

0:27:360:27:38

the city had a growing reputation for being soulless and concrete.

0:27:380:27:42

And not enough people were moving there.

0:27:440:27:46

So a marketing campaign was launched to persuade people

0:27:500:27:54

to relocate to Milton Keynes.

0:27:540:27:55

A now-iconic TV advert of a boy with a red balloon hit our screens.

0:27:580:28:03

You can see my house in the commercial,

0:28:090:28:11

where the boy stops to skim some stones across a pond.

0:28:110:28:15

This TV advert portrays Milton Keynes

0:28:210:28:23

as a green, safe and even exciting place to live.

0:28:230:28:27

-CHILDREN:

-..three, two, one!

0:28:270:28:30

THEY CHEER

0:28:300:28:33

But the reality was it was also quite ordinary.

0:28:330:28:37

In our house, we had macaroni cheese every Tuesday

0:28:370:28:41

and my dad played bridge every Wednesday.

0:28:410:28:43

Wouldn't it be nice if all cities

0:28:450:28:46

were like Milton Keynes?

0:28:460:28:48

My father would come in every evening from the London train,

0:28:510:28:55

take his suit off and get stuck into

0:28:550:28:58

some epic creative project of his own.

0:28:580:29:00

Laying the patio.

0:29:030:29:05

It took months.

0:29:070:29:08

Sunbathing on my father's new patio,

0:29:150:29:18

we didn't feel like guinea pigs in a huge social experiment.

0:29:180:29:22

It didn't feel like we were part of a perfect society.

0:29:220:29:25

Evidently, lots of people were experiencing a sense of dislocation.

0:29:270:29:32

The press even created a name for it - "the new town blues".

0:29:350:29:39

At the Development Corporation, a team of workers provided

0:29:480:29:52

practical and emotional support to the newcomers.

0:29:520:29:55

Even shoulders to cry on.

0:29:570:29:58

Did you feel that you were at the start of something amazing?

0:30:010:30:04

Oh, I had no idea at the time how vast...

0:30:040:30:11

interesting, exciting,

0:30:110:30:15

depressing it would be,

0:30:150:30:16

and I loved every minute of it.

0:30:160:30:18

-ARCHIVE:

-Mal Booth is one of the 13 arrivals workers

0:30:220:30:25

employed by the Development Corporation.

0:30:250:30:28

Her job is to visit people when they've just arrived

0:30:280:30:31

and to go back a few months later to see how they're settling in.

0:30:310:30:35

I think it's a very unusual family who can move from an environment

0:30:350:30:39

that perhaps they're been in all their lives and come to somewhere

0:30:390:30:42

like Milton Keynes, which is so different for them, and settle.

0:30:420:30:47

I think it hits a lot of the families

0:30:470:30:50

where the husband's out to work, the mother has young children,

0:30:500:30:54

and she now finds herself in a situation where this is all foreign.

0:30:540:30:59

I heard a stat that there was a lot of single women

0:31:040:31:07

who came to Milton Keynes during the early days.

0:31:070:31:09

Is that something you were aware of?

0:31:090:31:11

Um...

0:31:120:31:14

I don't know about a lot of single mothers coming to Milton Keynes.

0:31:140:31:18

I do know that a lot of women became single parents

0:31:180:31:22

once they'd moved here.

0:31:220:31:25

You know, their marriages were...

0:31:250:31:27

What they thought perhaps were strong, weren't -

0:31:270:31:31

they had a lot of problems to deal with.

0:31:310:31:34

When you're young,

0:31:340:31:35

moving to a new area highlights the cracks in a relationship.

0:31:350:31:41

Do you think those times would have caused any tensions

0:31:480:31:51

between the two of you?

0:31:510:31:52

Oh, I'm sure they probably did, yes.

0:31:540:31:56

Yes, because I was working.

0:31:560:32:00

It was tough.

0:32:000:32:02

I didn't have any support network, ever.

0:32:020:32:04

Because my family and Dad's family were further away.

0:32:040:32:11

His family was in London and my family was in Norfolk.

0:32:120:32:16

So I never had a mother to call on to come and help me out

0:32:160:32:22

or anything like that.

0:32:220:32:24

-No.

-And...

-You just had to...

0:32:240:32:27

do the best you could.

0:32:270:32:29

But of course, having to go out to work,

0:32:300:32:33

for a woman with two children,

0:32:330:32:35

it does put some sort of pressure on them.

0:32:350:32:37

I suppose there was stress,

0:32:370:32:39

but she copes with stress quite well.

0:32:390:32:41

I cover up my stress.

0:32:410:32:43

Hmm.

0:32:460:32:47

We probably all experienced difficulties

0:32:550:32:58

in different ways at that time -

0:32:580:33:00

but what I'm only understanding now is that this adversity

0:33:000:33:04

created relationships between strangers

0:33:040:33:07

of real strength and intimacy.

0:33:070:33:09

We talked about everything.

0:33:090:33:11

I mean, I got to know a family on this estate.

0:33:110:33:15

Unfortunately, the mum of the two young girls became very ill,

0:33:160:33:21

and was diagnosed with cancer,

0:33:210:33:27

and I had been told that she was dying,

0:33:270:33:31

and it was very emotional,

0:33:310:33:33

one day when she asked me,

0:33:330:33:36

"Am I dying, have I got cancer?"

0:33:360:33:38

and I sat with her and talked her through it

0:33:380:33:43

and was able to let her come to terms with the fact

0:33:430:33:49

that, yes, she didn't have long -

0:33:490:33:52

and it was nice, helping her to write letters to her two girls

0:33:520:33:58

and to be able to talk to them before she eventually died.

0:33:580:34:04

That was a very moving experience, but one that taught me a lot.

0:34:040:34:11

So, yeah.

0:34:130:34:14

Oh...

0:34:200:34:21

-Are you all right?

-I remember her well, yeah.

0:34:220:34:26

How funny is that?

0:34:260:34:28

Oh.

0:34:280:34:29

Hidden among trees and spread thinly over a wide area,

0:34:370:34:40

Milton Keynes doesn't look like anywhere else in the country.

0:34:400:34:45

In fact, from ground level at least,

0:34:460:34:49

you can't really get a good perspective on it.

0:34:490:34:51

The city has more than 22 million trees.

0:34:550:34:58

Every new family was given one to plant in their garden.

0:35:000:35:04

Ours was a cherry.

0:35:060:35:08

I remember I nearly killed it one year

0:35:080:35:10

after an accident involving a tin of creosote.

0:35:100:35:13

Today, the city within a forest - as the master plan describes it -

0:35:170:35:21

is home to a greater variety of birds than when it was farmland.

0:35:210:35:25

Quite an achievement for the architects of this utopian vision...

0:35:280:35:31

..but not everything has been quite so successful.

0:35:340:35:38

Some of those bold, modernist housing estates

0:35:380:35:41

have experienced problems as a result of their avant-garde designs.

0:35:410:35:45

Many have needed modifications and repairs,

0:35:480:35:51

and some are even facing redevelopment...

0:35:510:35:54

..but I'm meeting a woman who thinks they're things of beauty,

0:36:010:36:04

which represent the original, utopian vision for the city...

0:36:040:36:08

..and therefore must be preserved.

0:36:090:36:11

What have you seen?

0:36:130:36:15

Nice light on trees and terrace,

0:36:150:36:18

stepped up the hill with a nice bit of slope,

0:36:180:36:22

fencing and hedge at the top,

0:36:220:36:24

and another terrace coming in -

0:36:240:36:27

and then, just the three trees providing a little balance.

0:36:270:36:31

I think the whole composition is very thoughtful.

0:36:310:36:37

Elaine Harwood is from Historic England,

0:36:440:36:47

an organisation that protects our most precious buildings.

0:36:470:36:51

I just need a couple more pictures.

0:36:510:36:54

This is Eaglestone, by Ralph Erskine.

0:36:540:36:57

Perfect.

0:36:570:36:58

Elaine's taking photographs for a book she's written

0:36:580:37:01

about modern towns.

0:37:010:37:03

I wonder if I can move that dustbin a minute?

0:37:040:37:07

-ARCHIVE:

-It sounds like the Industrial Revolution

0:37:090:37:12

all over again, but in the 19th century

0:37:120:37:15

they built houses in long, straight, terraced rows.

0:37:150:37:18

They became the slums of the 20th century.

0:37:180:37:21

This is the Netherfield estate,

0:37:210:37:23

and I wonder if, in 50 or 100 years' time, a television reporter

0:37:230:37:27

will be standing here saying, "We must have better housing."

0:37:270:37:31

I like the rigour of it.

0:37:320:37:35

The repetition of the spaces and the way...

0:37:350:37:39

Ooh, that's...

0:37:390:37:41

It really is the most simple form of housing, landscape,

0:37:410:37:48

in really straight rows,

0:37:480:37:51

that's just...

0:37:510:37:52

..taking...

0:37:540:37:55

..the traditional terrace down to its absolute essence.

0:37:580:38:01

It wasn't just the housing estates

0:38:090:38:11

that had grand architectural aspirations.

0:38:110:38:14

The shopping centre was equally ambitious in scale and look.

0:38:150:38:18

Thanks to a successful campaign by Elaine and Historic England,

0:38:220:38:26

it's now the only shopping centre in the country

0:38:260:38:28

which is a listed building.

0:38:280:38:31

BELL RINGS

0:38:310:38:33

-PA:

-Would Natasha, the sister of Daniel,

0:38:330:38:37

please come to the shopping information,

0:38:370:38:39

opposite the open market.

0:38:390:38:42

I've always loved the shopping centre.

0:38:420:38:45

It just feels so warm and bright and welcoming.

0:38:450:38:48

Like a giant greenhouse.

0:38:500:38:52

In the early '80s, I got a Saturday job in a menswear store

0:38:550:38:59

called Lord John, which is where Next is now.

0:38:590:39:02

I seem to remember it sold a lot of viscose trousers.

0:39:040:39:07

Unlike shopping centres today,

0:39:110:39:13

this one was funded entirely by government money.

0:39:130:39:17

THEY GIGGLE

0:39:180:39:20

What is it?

0:39:210:39:22

Steel.

0:39:220:39:24

The architects who created the shopping centre

0:39:280:39:30

were in their 20s when they arrived in Milton Keynes.

0:39:300:39:33

They didn't just want to create another shopping mall,

0:39:350:39:38

they were determined to build something amazing.

0:39:380:39:41

That late sun on the steelwork, Richard, can you see it?

0:39:430:39:47

That's beautiful.

0:39:470:39:49

What we're seeing here is the reflection

0:39:490:39:52

of the real bit of the building,

0:39:520:39:54

reflected in this glazed wall.

0:39:540:39:56

You get a ghost of the building outside.

0:39:560:39:59

It becomes rather...

0:39:590:40:01

I would say, poetic.

0:40:010:40:03

This is Roman travertine, and I'm sitting on it as well.

0:40:080:40:10

It's from the same quarries that the classical Romans used at..

0:40:100:40:15

-Tivoli.

-..Tivoli.

-Yep.

0:40:150:40:17

Most people think this is marble

0:40:170:40:18

and that it's terribly expensive, and the public aren't worthy of it.

0:40:180:40:22

It's certainly not extravagant.

0:40:220:40:24

It's not as cheap as concrete, but we knew that.

0:40:240:40:26

It's a beautiful material,

0:40:260:40:29

and I don't know anything else in England

0:40:290:40:32

that looks like that.

0:40:320:40:34

The pavements of Rome are paved in exactly this material.

0:40:340:40:37

What does it make you feel?

0:40:410:40:42

What's your overriding feeling about the work you've done?

0:40:420:40:45

So, there.

0:40:470:40:48

-What?

-That's what I feel about it. So, there!

-It's here.

0:40:490:40:52

-What does that mean, exactly?

-Well...

0:40:520:40:54

-There you are.

-Tant pis, that's it.

0:40:540:40:57

You've got it, that's what I feel -

0:40:570:41:00

it is here, it's here, look at this.

0:41:000:41:03

So, there.

0:41:030:41:04

It's January 2017,

0:41:250:41:28

just a couple of weeks before Milton Keynes turns 50.

0:41:280:41:32

Look at this road. This is... This is a city street

0:41:330:41:37

where the principles of the grid road have been abandoned.

0:41:370:41:40

The council has allowed the developer to build things like this

0:41:410:41:45

right on top of the street, with no landscaping.

0:41:450:41:48

Most people probably think,

0:41:480:41:49

"Oh, Milton Keynes has always looked like this." No, it hasn't!

0:41:490:41:53

Milton Keynes has looked fantastic in the past.

0:41:530:41:57

It makes you weep to see what's been done.

0:41:580:42:01

Rediscovering my hometown, I find an adolescent city

0:42:050:42:09

that has been cut free from its parents' apron strings.

0:42:090:42:13

In the early '90s, the Development Corporation was wound up,

0:42:150:42:18

and since then, the city's growth has been dictated

0:42:180:42:21

more by the private sector...

0:42:210:42:23

..but there are those who want to protect its childhood identity,

0:42:290:42:33

like Linda Inoki, who runs a residents' campaign group.

0:42:330:42:37

In a way, it's a delicate flower.

0:42:380:42:40

If you don't stop and think about it,

0:42:400:42:43

you can take all this connectivity and ease of access for granted -

0:42:430:42:49

and that's when things get lost.

0:42:490:42:52

Because people don't necessarily recognise

0:42:520:42:54

that they're worth fighting for.

0:42:540:42:56

They will assume that they'll always be there.

0:42:560:42:59

After all, it's only 50 years on - it's nothing.

0:42:590:43:02

50 years is nothing, nothing, in the life of a great city -

0:43:020:43:05

and yet the tragedy is that it's already being pulled apart.

0:43:050:43:09

A few years ago, a second shopping centre was built,

0:43:140:43:17

which appeared to disregard the city's founding principles.

0:43:170:43:21

We're driving up Midsummer Boulevard,

0:43:230:43:26

our grand, central boulevard, which was broken in two in 1996,

0:43:260:43:31

when the council of the day gave permission

0:43:310:43:34

for a new shopping centre to be built -

0:43:340:43:38

and it still drives people nuts,

0:43:380:43:40

the fact that our boulevard was broken in two for no good reason.

0:43:400:43:44

Originally, we were able to drive straight through the boulevard,

0:43:460:43:49

right to the end of the city centre.

0:43:490:43:52

Suddenly, the boulevard was blocked off,

0:43:520:43:54

and you couldn't go through here any more.

0:43:540:43:56

I could not believe my eyes - I thought, "What have they done?"

0:43:580:44:02

I mean...and this is what happens,

0:44:030:44:05

this is what happens when you mess with the master plan.

0:44:050:44:08

That's THE monstrosity, yes.

0:44:170:44:19

It just makes me feel angry -

0:44:230:44:25

they did not have to break our boulevard in two

0:44:250:44:28

to build this bloomin' shopping centre.

0:44:280:44:31

When I look back at my teenage self, I can see how I failed to notice

0:44:380:44:43

what a unique place was being created here.

0:44:430:44:46

-ARCHIVE:

-The morning after, it seemed I had been wrong

0:44:470:44:50

to be so gloomy about the future.

0:44:500:44:53

for I came to a place so far removed in concept

0:44:530:44:55

from the rest of England

0:44:550:44:57

that it was as if I had arrived on another planet.

0:44:570:45:01

A vast and shining spaceship beneath the sky.

0:45:010:45:05

Surely, I thought,

0:45:050:45:06

this must be a place devoted to religion or to the arts,

0:45:060:45:10

and we were all waiting for some concert to begin,

0:45:100:45:13

or some guru to arrive.

0:45:130:45:15

Mind how you go, Richard. You're walking backwards.

0:45:190:45:22

Do you like being filmed?

0:45:280:45:29

Oh, yes. Very much so.

0:45:290:45:31

-Do you really?

-Oh, yes. Yes.

-Why?

0:45:310:45:34

Well,

0:45:340:45:36

I like to expose myself to the general public, as it were.

0:45:360:45:40

RICHARD LAUGHS You must...

0:45:400:45:42

I think you phrased that really unfor...

0:45:420:45:44

Not expose myself in the way that's come to your mind immediately.

0:45:440:45:49

In a different way, in a more subtle way.

0:45:490:45:51

DRUMMING AND CHANTING

0:45:520:45:54

When the writer Beryl Bainbridge visited Milton Keynes

0:45:540:45:58

in the early 1980s, she found a place far from lacking in soul,

0:45:580:46:02

and actually quite spiritual.

0:46:020:46:05

At the time, I would have laughed at Beryl, but now,

0:46:100:46:14

as I visit the first Buddhist peace pagoda in the Western world

0:46:140:46:18

with my dad,

0:46:180:46:20

I can see what she found so beguiling about the city.

0:46:200:46:23

Quite imposing, isn't it?

0:46:230:46:25

It's right that the Japanese should build a temple here...

0:46:290:46:32

..and when you think about it,

0:46:340:46:36

a new city without memorials or monuments to the past

0:46:360:46:41

is a fitting place for an eastern ideology

0:46:410:46:44

which believes in the eventual perfection of man.

0:46:440:46:48

Always puzzles me. I never can quite fathom out Japanese culture.

0:46:570:47:03

It seems very complicated.

0:47:030:47:05

Have you got any words of wisdom for me

0:47:100:47:12

while I'm making the documentary?

0:47:120:47:13

I don't really know.

0:47:150:47:16

Words of wisdom? Er...

0:47:160:47:19

Oh...

0:47:210:47:22

Well, of course...

0:47:240:47:25

..talking about marriage,

0:47:270:47:29

Dr Johnson did say that...

0:47:290:47:31

..marriage...

0:47:320:47:34

..has some pains...

0:47:350:47:38

but celibacy has few pleasures.

0:47:380:47:41

After three, I want you all to shout,

0:47:520:47:54

"Happy birthday, Milton Keynes!"

0:47:540:47:56

One, two, three!

0:47:560:47:58

ALL: Happy birthday, Milton Keynes!

0:47:580:48:02

Bletchley Park, the home of the codebreakers,

0:48:080:48:12

is the most famous Milton Keynes tourist attraction

0:48:120:48:15

and is the venue for the town's 50th birthday party.

0:48:150:48:18

People here are celebrating one of Britain's greatest feats

0:48:200:48:24

of social engineering.

0:48:240:48:26

This is not the end,

0:48:280:48:30

we're not going to pack up and go home -

0:48:300:48:32

we've now got another 50 years to make Milton Keynes

0:48:320:48:34

an even better place,

0:48:340:48:36

and move on to the hundredth anniversary of Milton Keynes.

0:48:360:48:39

So, thank you very much indeed for turning up today.

0:48:390:48:41

APPLAUSE

0:48:410:48:43

The population of MK now exceeds the planners' wildest predictions.

0:48:460:48:52

When I drive around the city today as an adult,

0:48:520:48:55

I find a thriving commercial centre...

0:48:550:48:58

..but also a place I'd quite like to bring my kids up in.

0:49:000:49:04

It does feel green, safe, and inclusive...

0:49:040:49:08

..but what's it like to be a young person here?

0:49:100:49:13

What does the future hold for THEM and their city?

0:49:130:49:15

I'm going back to my old school, to meet the new indigenous generation.

0:49:170:49:22

SCHOOL ORCHESTRA PLAYS

0:49:260:49:27

Stantonbury Campus was a school very much in keeping

0:49:300:49:34

with the utopian ideals of the city.

0:49:340:49:37

There was no uniform.

0:49:370:49:38

The classrooms were carpeted.

0:49:380:49:41

You called the teachers by their first name,

0:49:410:49:43

and there was no such thing as detention.

0:49:430:49:45

-ARCHIVE:

-There's a liberal, club-like atmosphere here,

0:49:500:49:53

the floors are carpeted,

0:49:530:49:55

and there's every conceivable piece

0:49:550:49:57

of electronic educational gadgetry...

0:49:570:49:59

..and that includes what is perhaps the most advanced

0:50:020:50:04

language laboratory in the world.

0:50:040:50:07

-'Schnitzel.'

-Schnitzel.

0:50:070:50:09

'Schnitzel? Prima.'

0:50:090:50:10

Schnitzel? Prima.

0:50:100:50:12

Once a month, a whole day was given over to a single activity,

0:50:140:50:18

like trampolining or golf.

0:50:180:50:21

LAUGHTER

0:50:220:50:24

And that, after four weeks, I think, is a good swing.

0:50:240:50:27

How you swing in those shoes I don't know.

0:50:270:50:29

-CHILDREN:

-# Poke him in the eye

0:50:330:50:34

# Stick him on the bonfire and there let him die

0:50:340:50:37

# Guy, Guy, Guy

0:50:370:50:38

# Poke him in the eye... #

0:50:380:50:40

Of course, all that has changed now.

0:50:400:50:43

You know about this thing that we had to call day ten?

0:50:450:50:48

Day ten was a sort of interesting thing where they used to send out

0:50:480:50:51

these little pamphlets with loads of different activities

0:50:510:50:53

which you'd do for a whole day,

0:50:530:50:55

and it could be... doing things like maths -

0:50:550:50:58

maths for a whole day, who'd do that?

0:50:580:51:00

-I would.

-Who would?

-I would.

0:51:000:51:04

LAUGHTER

0:51:040:51:05

Yeah, I... Maths is definitely one of my favourite subjects

0:51:070:51:10

and I just had a complete interest in it.

0:51:100:51:11

But you know, on day ten, you could have chosen

0:51:110:51:14

a day of roller-skating instead of maths.

0:51:140:51:16

Oh, don't make me pick.

0:51:160:51:18

LAUGHTER

0:51:180:51:20

And how do you find living in Milton Keynes, you know...today?

0:51:210:51:26

It's quiet. I feel like there's not much to do.

0:51:260:51:29

Really? You find it quiet?

0:51:290:51:31

I don't think there's much to do.

0:51:310:51:33

Compared to, like, big cities and stuff.

0:51:330:51:35

It depends really on your interests.

0:51:350:51:36

Because here, you can always do something that's engaging

0:51:360:51:39

for everybody's interests here.

0:51:390:51:40

You don't have to look a certain way.

0:51:400:51:42

You don't have to be a certain person

0:51:420:51:45

or be a certain religion or anything like that to fit in with others.

0:51:450:51:48

You don't have to be a certain sexuality to do so.

0:51:480:51:51

Everybody has their right to be their own person

0:51:510:51:53

and that's what makes everything so diverse.

0:51:530:51:55

I was actually going to talk about this at some point.

0:51:550:51:58

I was going to say how diverse Milton Keynes is.

0:51:580:52:00

I just think it's nice how comfortable people are now

0:52:000:52:03

just walking down the street and being OK with who they are

0:52:030:52:05

and not getting discriminated and whatnot.

0:52:050:52:07

It's just nice to see someone from a different country, maybe,

0:52:070:52:10

come to Milton Keynes and live on the same street,

0:52:100:52:12

or go to the same school as you.

0:52:120:52:13

You're, like... We may not have the same culture,

0:52:130:52:17

but we can be friends... or something.

0:52:170:52:19

And do you think Milton Keynes is particularly tolerant?

0:52:190:52:21

Yeah, yeah.

0:52:210:52:23

More so than, perhaps, other places?

0:52:230:52:24

Yeah, I would say so, because...

0:52:240:52:26

I don't know, I think we kind of embrace,

0:52:260:52:28

kind of, the diversity we have here.

0:52:280:52:30

-Yeah.

-And that makes it unique from other places?

0:52:300:52:34

Yeah, because some places will never change.

0:52:340:52:36

Some places can't change, cos it's such a big environment or area,

0:52:360:52:41

but with Milton Keynes, they...

0:52:410:52:43

When I mean "they", we all are trying

0:52:430:52:46

to put something in to Milton Keynes.

0:52:460:52:49

I think it's more the public that make Milton Keynes what it is

0:52:490:52:52

than the actual places.

0:52:520:52:53

That's my opinion, anyway.

0:52:530:52:55

It's unbelievable to look back at this commercial

0:53:030:53:06

and realise there are almost no non-white people in it...

0:53:060:53:10

..because today's generation

0:53:120:53:14

of Milton Keynes' primary school children

0:53:140:53:16

are 42% non-white.

0:53:160:53:18

Wouldn't be nice if all cities

0:53:220:53:23

were like Milton Keynes?

0:53:230:53:25

I know you've had a sandwich, Richard,

0:53:310:53:32

but would you like something else?

0:53:320:53:34

No, I'm all right, thanks.

0:53:340:53:35

I think my problem with Milton Keynes

0:53:370:53:40

was, as a teenager, it defined me in a way I didn't like.

0:53:400:53:44

I didn't want to be uniform and mainstream.

0:53:460:53:49

But in my haste to turn my back on the place

0:53:520:53:55

and find a new identity,

0:53:550:53:56

I also turned my back on the people here.

0:53:560:53:59

David Sutton has lived nearly all his life in Milton Keynes

0:53:590:54:04

and was my closest friend for a decade.

0:54:040:54:06

Oh, got to have a nose down here, cos we were right down the bottom.

0:54:130:54:16

It was right down the bottom, on the left.

0:54:160:54:18

Yeah.

0:54:180:54:20

But we lost contact when I went to university.

0:54:210:54:23

I've asked him to meet me at our old school.

0:54:240:54:27

THEY LAUGH

0:54:270:54:29

You were a very talented sportsman, weren't you, David?

0:54:290:54:32

Uh...I wouldn't know that I was necessarily...

0:54:320:54:34

Well... All right, then.

0:54:340:54:36

HE LAUGHS

0:54:360:54:37

I think I used to, sort of, look up to you so much

0:54:370:54:39

for your sporting prowess

0:54:390:54:41

that I used to think that, hanging out with you, somehow,

0:54:410:54:43

some of it would rub off on me. DAVID CHUCKLES

0:54:430:54:46

Yeah...

0:54:460:54:47

It never did, obviously.

0:54:470:54:49

You know me really well, don't you?

0:54:500:54:52

Even though you don't know me, you've not known me for years...

0:54:520:54:54

-Yeah.

-..I get the sense that you still know me really well.

0:54:540:54:57

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Without a shadow. I mean, it's like I said to you,

0:54:570:55:00

for me, it's...you know, camera or no camera,

0:55:000:55:03

it's one of the big regrets in my life

0:55:030:55:05

and I just cannot believe

0:55:050:55:08

when I look back at how a unique friendship and special friendship

0:55:080:55:12

had been lost.

0:55:120:55:13

-Um...

-I started liking stuff like Janis Joplin and...

0:55:130:55:16

-Yes, yes.

-..Led Zeppelin -

0:55:160:55:17

I think you just didn't approve of all that sort of stuff.

0:55:170:55:20

DAVID LAUGHS

0:55:200:55:21

It wasn't a question of approving. I didn't know it, really.

0:55:210:55:25

That's what I'm saying.

0:55:250:55:27

It took you into a different world.

0:55:270:55:29

For you to, sort of, be anything other than, like I was,

0:55:290:55:33

a mad Queen advocate, was very painful,

0:55:330:55:37

cos at that time, I was the only mad Queen advocate that I knew,

0:55:370:55:41

apart from you.

0:55:410:55:43

But it just felt, to me, I think - and it was me, my fault -

0:55:430:55:48

it just felt like you were sort of ditching everything that...

0:55:480:55:51

..that we had, sort of, forged together, as it were,

0:55:520:55:55

and suddenly, that had all gone out the window and...

0:55:550:55:59

that included me.

0:55:590:56:00

My parents have come to feel very at home in Milton Keynes

0:56:130:56:17

in a way that I never did.

0:56:170:56:19

Perhaps part of the problem is that me and the city

0:56:210:56:25

are just too different.

0:56:250:56:27

Or are we?

0:56:280:56:29

Before I catch my train, there's a little test I want to do

0:56:290:56:33

with Mum and Dad, based on a survey by Milton Keynes Council.

0:56:330:56:38

They've spoken to a cross-section of the community of Milton Keynes,

0:56:390:56:42

and asked them to describe Milton Keynes as if it was a person.

0:56:420:56:46

-Right! Yes.

-As what?

0:56:460:56:48

-As if it was a person.

-As if it was a person.

-Oh...

0:56:480:56:51

-So, these are the findings. I'll read them to you, shall I?

-Yes.

0:56:510:56:55

"Milton Keynes is a unique and free-spirited place...

0:56:550:56:58

"..with a charm all of its own that makes it stand out from the crowd."

0:57:010:57:05

Hm. It's true.

0:57:050:57:06

Well, it is, because it was built out of nothing.

0:57:070:57:11

It was just farmland.

0:57:110:57:13

"Milton Keynes is guided by principles,

0:57:140:57:17

"sometimes at the expense of logic."

0:57:170:57:20

Yes.

0:57:200:57:21

"It has a high regard for a sense of aesthetics and beauty.

0:57:210:57:25

"It is a highly idealistic place to live.

0:57:250:57:28

"Yet it also has a colder, rational side."

0:57:290:57:33

Uh...no, I don't know. Haven't noticed it.

0:57:330:57:36

-"A colder, rational side"? Oh, my goodness me.

-No.

0:57:360:57:39

"Yet this can make it appear a bit unemotional to people

0:57:390:57:43

"that do not know the place."

0:57:430:57:45

-Mm, yes.

-And a bit aloof and uncaring and...

0:57:450:57:48

Yes, yes. Mm.

0:57:480:57:50

Yes, I can see that.

0:57:500:57:52

What's the time, please?

0:57:540:57:56

-Oh, yes...

-11:40. 12:40.

-12:40.

0:57:560:58:00

What time have you got to go?

0:58:000:58:02

Uh... At one.

0:58:020:58:04

Oh, at one?

0:58:040:58:05

May I quote Dr Johnson again?

0:58:060:58:09

"Anyone who is fed up with Milton Keynes is fed up with life."

0:58:090:58:15

Oh.

0:58:150:58:17

Quote, end quote.

0:58:170:58:18

Explore more about the history of Milton Keynes

0:58:240:58:28

and how things have changed.

0:58:280:58:29

Go to...

0:58:290:58:31

..and follow the links to the Open University.

0:58:340:58:38

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