Episode 3 Gower

The Gower Peninsula.

70 square miles of raw, natural beauty.

Only minutes from the industry and commerce of Swansea and Port Talbot,

the wild beaches and country lanes are a magnet for over three million visitors a year.

There is an island mentality here.

Gower people don't like to be told what to do and what not to do.

Traditional farming is dying out and landowners have to adapt to survive.

I do miss the flax, the sheep and the sheepdog and all that

but times are changing, you've got to seize the opportunity.

The Gower Society is dead set on conservation.

If we don't respect it, we may as well kick it into touch

and turn the whole of Gower over to some sort of theme park.

But locals say Gower shouldn't become a museum either.

We are not slagging anybody off here, we're just promoting it.

At the end of the day, local people have to have local work and money.

People here can be fiercely private.

But as a year on the peninsula unfolds,

we are witness to events both everyday...

When does it have to be made?

Is it the same morning? Because cucumber gets soggy.

..And highly personal.

Because it was Dad, I really panicked,

I really thought he was dying.

This land inspires conflict in those who want to make a living here

and those who want to conserve it.

But everyone agrees, Gower is both extraordinary and unique.

When the summer comes to Gower, people who live and work here

expect the sun to come with it, to make things grow for the farmers

and to bring in the visitors to those who have diversified into the tourist industries.

The Gower Show is the highlight of the summer calendar.

Locals gather here to share information, sell their goods,

but most of all, to compete against one another.

Farmer Rob Morgan from Three Crosses has brought his reindeer.

He has diversified into Christmas trees and is keen to drum up business for winter.

Penclawdd butchers Philip and Paul Tucker are here to sell their Gower salt marsh lamb burgers.

Gower Society's Gordon Howe is setting up a stall he knows will upset some people.

Locals say his aerial photographs make caravan sites look worse than they are.

I always say a caravan holiday lets you cover some of the best scenery in the country.

Very appropriate, isn't it? Good God!

But the run-up to the Gower Show starts months before the big day.

There is an air of competition in every village.

This woman is on a mission.

I'd forgotten which house it was. That was good, wasn't it?

-Are you all right?

-Yes.

Members of the Llanddewi and Knelston Women's Institute

are gathering for the first strategic meeting in their bid to win the WI co-operative shield.

Jacky, have you got the list of who is going to do what or what we're thinking of doing?

Shield winners have to show excellence in flower arranging,

baking, presentation and interpretation.

The theme this year is celebrating 60 years of anything.

We have got to have something royal, haven't we?

Yes. I found on the internet that you can get edible diamonds.

Luckily, this WI group has experts in most categories,

especially Elaine, who's this group's cake-making queen.

If I can get the right colour, I can do some writing on the cake as well. "60 years" or something.

Daphne Furnow is pulling it together.

-She knows who should do what.

-Sue wants to know about her bread.

When does it have to be made? Is it the same morning? Because cucumber gets soggy.

If we do the sandwiches diamond shape, we can have the sandwiches on the plate

but then we have a loaf of bread to go to the side of it.

What? A complete loaf, or half the one I've used?

Oh! I don't know. Hang on, we shall look in the bible.

-Yes, look in the book.

-We shall have a look in the bible.

Not the holy one, but just as important to these women.

It's the book containing competition guidelines.

-What does it say?

-It doesn't say anything about staging,

it just says the rules and regulations and how to present it.

I know it used to be on a bread board.

How many sandwiches? That's the other thing.

-Decisions have to be made on the tiniest of details.

-Three diamonds.

-Yes.

-One diamond.

-I like that one.

-And I do.

-I like that one.

I think that one is going to be easier to do.

All the elements then have to be arranged and displayed with perfect harmony.

Daphne takes charge, but everyone has an opinion.

What do you think of the silver? Is everyone happy or would you prefer round?

Round containers or round staging then the square or the diamonds?

-I like it as it is.

-I like it as it is.

-I like it as it is.

-I think that they looks quite nice.

-We'd better win after all this now!

-How much do we win, if we win this?

-£10.

We're not doing it for the money.

This scene is being played out by rival WIs all over Gower.

But have Llanddewi and Knelston done enough to snatch the shield on the big day?

The upcoming Jubilee Bank Holiday is preoccupying the workers at Hillend caravan site too.

Their season so far has been rubbish.

From the first bank holiday weekend, everything has just been a disaster. Deadly.

We've not even taken enough to run the boilers of hot water.

It's just been nothing.

It's a few days before the long June holiday, and the sun has come out.

I think the Jubilee weekend is going to be busy.

What I don't want is for this weather to continue into the middle of next week

and then to break down for the weekend.

Although the people will come, it makes twice the work.

But sometimes what you don't want is exactly what you get.

Normally, on a bank holiday in June, queues for the campsite would be tailed back to the main gate.

I haven't turned away as many people as you would expect

on a bank holiday, but that is because of the weather.

Two days of rain and a few can't hack it, they've gone.

It's a little emptier today than it was yesterday.

But rain has never daunted a hearty camper or caravan owner.

Jubilee spirit prevails.

It's not only the Gower WIs that are getting ready for the Gower Show.

At Windmill farm in Llanrhydian, Claire Pierce Morgan is preparing daughter Ellie's pony

for a final practice round before the competition.

Her name is Jewel, and she's really friendly.

This mare was broken in December. We've been all year brushing her and training her up

ready for the show in season. We have done quite well with her.

Ellie and Jewel have had a really successful start to the season,

-winning at the local Llanrhydian and the Royal Welsh Show.

-We do it for the enjoyment.

We are a little stud and we just really enjoy what you're doing.

This is a real mum-and-daughter team.

Ellie's pony was bred on the farm by Clare's dad, Viv,

whose family has been here for generations.

He's had to diversify to survive,

like so many other farming families in Gower.

It is still a working farm, the marquee at the weddings

is the diversification side of it which is going well.

We have got the holiday cottage which we started in 2006.

Everything seems to be working side-by-side and it's really working well.

It may be working well now, but for Viv Pierce, it has been an uphill battle.

Gower Society and the city council planners have been opposed to this venture

as they have for the one in Oxwich Bay. A familiar Gower story.

They say marquees are a blot on the landscape,

but locals like Viv get frustrated by rules imposed on them

from people they see as outsiders.

It's very well sitting in an office with plush carpet and have good wages and good pensions

but we out here in the real world have got to survive.

But for the moment, while the business flourishes,

with lots of work to be done on both farm and in the marquee,

the family still keeps an eye on Ellie's progress.

I think there will be local competition, yes,

very high standard I would've thought.

You get people coming from away, so it would be nice to get there,

have her right, looking well and go well.

That's what I would like her to do on the day.

As long as she goes well and looks well, we don't mind where we come.

At the Poundffald Farm, Three Crosses, above the estuary outside Penclawdd,

Rob Morgan's reindeer herd is growing.

He diversified after his father took his own life

because of the pressures of farming and ill-health.

Rob planted Christmas trees instead of crops and is raising the herd

for the Christmas grotto venture that has turned his life around.

The herd I've got at the moment, there's a lot of teenagers,

so equivalent to a young mum, 17 or 18. Next year, they will mature into young ladies

and we'll have a lot more youngsters.

Rob's preparing some of his stars for a guest appearance at the forthcoming show.

I think we'll take the two mothers,

which is the white one and the brown one and the two babies,

the one in front of us, he is the stud.

While the herd's expanding, so are the Christmas trees.

Both need year-round attention.

We're up to 250,000 trees now and this is one field of about 20 fields.

They're not all this big. But we'll get there in the end,

but it is daunting if you look ahead too far.

I am just enjoying the moment. I don't want to think too far ahead.

The phone is already ringing about Christmas tree enquiries

but I have to put it to the back of my mind.

Daphne and the WI members are gathering for a final pre-show meeting.

Daphne has some inside information she's not sharing with the other women.

As secretary of the cookery and craft section, I know there are six entries.

No other WI knows how many and I'm not telling the girls how many there are.

The competition is going to be very stiff.

Now, everything has to be assembled

but the cucumber sandwich debate is still waiting to be resolved.

-Do you want traditional triangles?

-Do triangles and set them up.

-Yes. Along like that.

-Yes. Cut it straight now, Sylv.

Oh dear, that's a bit broken off.

You're not straight, go through again.

You haven't cut through the cucumber.

All now rests in the detail.

Why don't you have a purple leaf lettuce to go with the purple?

Oh, yes.

ALL: Ooh!

-No, it has got to be that way, hasn't it?

-I don't know. You don't want it square.

Now it reflects that line and that line, doesn't it?

-Like the double-decker.

-Yes.

-This is a headache now, isn't it?

-Yes it is.

Elaine will be providing the centrepiece for the whole exhibition. The cake.

The pressure, yes. It is really getting to me.

It's unbelievable.

The trouble is, all these hundreds of people come and see

what the judges' remarks are on your cooking.

If you have done something wrong, it feels terrible then.

With the show not far away, the pressure is on for everyone.

At Hillend Caravan Park, the sun makes a long-awaited and well-timed appearance,

coinciding with the start of the school holidays.

But, true to form, there's always a spanner in the works.

I've just been onto our rubbish disposal people who should be here twice a week

and apparently I haven't requested two pickups a week.

This is bloody ridiculous, isn't it? Absolutely ridiculous.

When they broke down once before and we got stuck with not being able to unload,

we had bloody flies and maggots all over the place. It was horrendous.

I have got two options, I either get the mini digger and compress it

or I get the heaviest member of my staff to jump on them.

Don't you bloody start on me.

I wasn't expecting this, to be honest.

It wasn't on my list of things to do, I must admit.

There is a lot to do a week before the Gower Show

and the weather has reverted to its erratic nature.

John Fernow, the show director, and his son Richard

have to mark their layout for the rings and the marquees on the Penrice Estate fields.

We are setting up now. The President's tent is there,

-horticulture is here and the WI will be there.

-Right.

After 24 years of running the event, John has decided new blood is needed

-so son Richard is ready to step up.

-It is quite a big responsibility.

My wife keeps breathing deeply about it, saying what have I got myself into? I enjoy it.

I think it's something we need in the community

and Dad needs some more help to assist him. My job suits me to help him. I'm looking forward to it.

Like everyone in Gower, they're keeping one eye on the weather.

Luckily, this morning it's dry,

the lorry has driven straight in, hasn't made a mark.

If that continues, we're laughing.

But they aren't laughing for long.

The heavens open, and there's a mountain of work to get through.

It forecast showers for today. At least the boys are in the marquee.

They are setting up, so the lorry's going in.

Hopefully, this will blow off now. It'll be a passing shower.

If this torrential rain continues for the rest of the week,

it could turn into John's worst nightmare.

We don't want this on the Saturday when everybody is coming in.

That's when things get messed up.

John's wife Daphne has pressing matters of her own.

The pre-show activity is frenetic and she's popped to her neighbour Beryl's house,

to borrow some foliage.

I always remember through Young Farmers, one of the boys always used to say

the only way they recognised me was my backside sticking out the hedge.

Most people in Gower take part or visit the show

and competing is not for the fainthearted.

There'll be a lot of people standing there and giving their own opinion.

Oh yes, "I wonder why they got that.

"Why have they got that and I haven't or somebody hasn't."

-There will be a lot of that.

-When they take the lid off the jam and it smells of pickled onions,

you know why they haven't got it.

Or there might be a bit of mould because they haven't opened the jam.

That's right. It doesn't seal, it doesn't pop.

If it doesn't pop, it's not sealed.

-It's not according to schedule and it's disqualified.

-Or it's the wrong size or the wrong amount.

The jam might have a commercial brand on it and that's out.

While the whole of South West Wales has been lashed by wind and rain with severe flood warnings,

the gods of Gower smile down on the Penrice estate.

If you just park it in the area here because obviously it's quite wet over by the tents.

It's the weekend of the Gower Show.

Competitors and exhibitors start pouring in to set up.

It's not yet started and Richard is realising just what he's taken over.

I am tired. It has been hard work the last couple of days

fighting the weather and getting everything organised,

but it has been good. We're getting there.

In the WI tent, the pressure is on.

They will be judged early so visitors to the show

will not only see the competing stands but know the result.

As expected, the competition looks fierce.

Oh yes, WIs are very keen to win.

We won last year, so we want to retain it.

Everyone's looking to see what the other WI groups have come up with.

Llangennith's corgi is looking like the one to beat!

I asked whether the corgi was house-trained

because dogs are not allowed in the food tent.

They said yes. He doesn't bite ether.

Competing this year will be especially poignant for the Llanddewi and Knelston women.

Elaine sadly died in the week before the show,

just after finishing the cake for the stand.

It is one of the things, you couldn't plan it, could you?

With all the preparation beforehand.

Elaine is so involved always in everything.

-She's been to all the meetings. We just want to do it for her.

-Yes.

But the judges know nothing about Elaine's story,

-and will be making up their own minds.

-Good standard, lots of fun.

Lots of Jubilee.

Very colourful, and I think the standard is very good.

Even the cup of tea there looks good.

My word!

A tough task for the judges and an anxious wait for the women.

Away from the WI marquee, it's just as intense for Claire and daughter Ellie from Windmill farm,

as they prepare Jewel for the competition.

It's Ellie's eighth birthday, so a win would be the perfect present.

I just hope she goes well and Ellie enjoys. We don't mind where we come.

We enjoy it. It's hard work. We were up at 5:30 this morning.

We just enjoy it.

Breeding and showing ponies is a passion that runs in the family.

It's a tradition that Ellie's grandad Viv

is particularly proud of.

There's years and years gone into breeding these ponies.

We are trying to improve on what we've got,

and to have something for my granddaughter to ride

is very pleasing.

Appearance is everything.

Not only for the pony, but leader and rider as well.

Ellie and I dress the same when we're in the ring,

because it's always nice to look smart and matching.

When everyone's ready, it's time to go.

The ponies are paraded around the ring individually.

They have to display unity between leader, pony and rider.

Judges are looking for a complete turn-out.

As you can see Ellie there, she just suits the mare,

and the mare suits her. It's just a complete outfit.

Very proud.

If she wins, be even prouder.

And Ellie doesn't disappoint her grandad,

winning the lead ring category.

We had a first. Very pleased.

Some lovely ponies in there, that went well. She was a bit lazy.

Yeah, good day.

After a quick drink for Ellie, it's back in the saddle to face

the winners of the other sections, to compete for the Championship.

And she's in fine form.

She wins again.

That's two top prizes for Ellie on her birthday.

But there's still the big one to come.

Now we've just won the Championship,

we've got to take on at the end of the day,

there's a Championship from every class.

It's called the Supreme,

so that's a real toughie again.

It's also getting tough in the WI tent.

The judges aren't convinced

by one aspect of the Llanddewi and Knelston entry.

This is lovely. It's sparkling, and it's celebration.

Definitely celebration. The only problem is

that they've put it on a mirror,

which is lovely for sparkle, but it reflects other images.

You can see the tent, you can see the underneath of...

It rather takes away.

Things aren't looking good.

Even Daphne, the seasoned pro of the team,

has dropped points on her flower arranging.

She's given my second for my flowers.

Now then, what can I say about that?

She's gone and given it to this one, the flowers,

all because of that mirror on the base.

Daphne knows that every point counts,

and even though they've done well on presentation and interpretation,

it could all come down to Elaine's cake.

Its main rival, the show-stopping corgi

from the current shield-holders Llangennith,

is about to be tasted.

Oh.

Taste is worth far more points than appearance.

THEY LAUGH

But the judge doesn't look happy.

Neither does the corgi!

The problem is the cake has been shaped well,

but then it's uncooked in the middle.

So you're going to lose the marks, because that's what you're tasting.

Daphne can barely contain herself.

A soggy corgi gives her girls a lifeline.

She knows that if Elaine's cake scores well, they could win.

Turn it round towards you.

-No, the other way.

-Oh, I can see now.

'I'm hovering now because our WI is being marked at the moment,

'and more than anything I want to know how Elaine's cake gets on.'

The tasting is going well.

Now all that's left is to total up the marks.

Our sheet's still out. It's still out to debate.

The others are added up, so we're going to add them up,

double check the figures, and see which comes out on top.

Around the show, there's less tension.

In some areas, at least.

The old argument between Gower Society

and the caravan site owners never goes away.

-A lot of these now are aerial photographs.

-They are.

They do show more than what you see them on the ground. We accept that.

Local caravan site owner John Mumby is having it out

with Gower Society's Gordon Howe.

We're not slagging anybody off on here.

-You go round the rest of the board, and you have lambs in the fields, and things like this.

-Yes.

That would be very nice, but at the end of the day...

..local people have to have local work and money.

We're not disputing that, but on the other hand you're knocking it.

The loss of traditional farming

and more diversification on Gower land is reflected in the show.

Rob and his reindeer are a prime example.

I think that's the sign of the Gower, to be honest, more attractions.

You still have the die-hard farmers showing.

You see the youngsters bringing the sheep and stuff,

which is promising for the future.

After two wins already, it's Ellie's next big moment.

Now I'm going to go into the Supreme,

which all the champions go in,

in one big class.

Ellie is eight today.

She's competing against far more experienced riders.

The competition is tough.

But Ellie gets second place.

Reserve Supreme Champion of the show.

A perfect birthday present for a little Gower girl.

Another Gower girl who's waiting for a result is Daphne, at the WI tent.

Yes! We've won.

We have won.

We had top marks, 161.

Second was Llangennith, with 153.5,

and third was Upper Killay, with 152.

So we've won. Delighted.

So I have to ring Chris, our President, and tell her.

I'm not supposed to.

It's a moving moment.

It was Elaine's cake that clinched the win

for the Llanddewi and Knelston women.

Hi, Chris, Daphne speaking.

This is the report from the Gower show field.

You better be sitting down, because we won.

Right? I'm getting all emotional again now.

Bye, see you soon. See you tomorrow. Bye.

It's been a great team effort, and a fitting tribute to Elaine.

Heartfelt and warmest congratulations to Llanddewi and Knelston WI.

It's absolutely wonderful.

We couldn't have a better event to happen for all of us, and for Elaine,

because we've always worked together as a team,

and it's a culmination of all the enjoyment of all of it.

So we're absolutely delighted. And the competition was fierce,

so we were amazed and delighted to win.

As the 2012 Gower Show winds down,

both winners and losers make their way home.

The fickle Welsh weather for once has been kind

to the people of the peninsula.

They return to their daily lives,

on this rare patch of the earth's surface,

as writer Wynford Vaughan Thomas once called it, for another year.

Until the next show comes around.

What can I say? Fantastic day. Brilliant day at the show.

Tired, and waiting for a hard-earned drink, I think.

Have a pint with the all boys that have worked.

It's been a very good day. Excellent day.

The weather's been very kind to us. We've had a very good crowd.

A bit of a barbecue later, and then start to clear it all up.

And that'll be that for another year.

Next time, fattening the pig for a big local event.

I think this one is probably the favourite. Aren't you, pal?

The pressure's getting to young Welsh surfing hope Milly.

I did what I wanted to do.

I didn't do what everybody else wanted me to do, did I?

And sharing the love in North Gower.

I give myself to you completely, with a promise to love, cherish,

and support you for the rest of our lives and beyond.

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd