Episode 2 The Real Marigold Hotel


Episode 2

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India, a country bursting with colour and beauty.

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I don't have words for that.

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With year-round warm weather and a low cost of living...

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..could it be the perfect place to retire?

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I would love it - a different way of life,

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where money might last longer, and a wonderful climate.

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I want to have a comfortable old age.

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Let's go somewhere and live like kings.

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Your Majesty!

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Inspired by the film, eight well-known pensioners

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are going on a real-life adventure in the city of Jaipur.

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-Welcome to Jaipur.

-I'm in! My bum is in.

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And they've set up a unique retirement home

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in the heart of the old city.

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-Is this the way to the market, though?

-I don't know!

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We can give it a go. Hello!

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After trying to fend for themselves...

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It's banging around!

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Oh, my giddy aunt!

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..they've hired staff and begun to explore the local area.

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There wouldn't be enough years of retirement to take it all in.

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-Oh, wow!

-Unbelievable!

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But will they navigate the challenges India poses...

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Blimey! This is exhausting.

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..and find somewhere new to call home on the other side of the world?

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You can't avoid loving this place. Magical!

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BIRDSONG

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-INDIAN MAN:

-A very good morning!

-ALL:

-Good morning!

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Everybody, all of you look good this morning!

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Close your eyes.

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Let go of all your desires...

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..and see what wonders it does to your body.

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It's the second week of living together in the haveli,

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and the group have begun to embrace the local way of life.

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Wayne, Roy, Sylvester and Patti are up early for their yoga lesson

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with instructor Atul.

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Breathing through the nose.

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You breathe in through the mouth. Blow out your cheeks.

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And straighten your mouth. Breathe out of the nose.

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Atul's yoga is specially designed for senior citizens,

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and it's more than just exercise,

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focusing on meditation and mental wellbeing.

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I'm definitely going to start yoga classes and meditation.

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Those are two very important things in my life now.

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Take your hands up.

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Just brought us into, like, a sanctuary of peace and happiness.

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You feel calmness.

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But not everyone has been converted to the benefits of yoga.

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I really like a fan. I REALLY like a fan. I just love that blowy feeling.

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And when you fart, it sort of blows it away really quickly.

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So nobody sort of almost notices.

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If you're a slightly windy person, like I am.

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JAN LAUGHS

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I love the strangeness of India,

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the fact that it's a completely different culture,

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the unexpected things that happen here,

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-the imminence of

-BLEEP

-myself, you know.

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And Miriam isn't the only one suffering.

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I've still got the squits! You know, we all have squits.

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I think everybody's suffering.

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But the only thing is, I'm just trying...

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I need to stay around the room for maybe a little longer.

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It's part and parcel of India, my dear!

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OK, I've got to go again. I'm sorry.

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HORNS BLARE

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-BOBBY:

-The thing I like about India, everyone's busy.

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Everyone's going somewhere, to get something.

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They're like ants. They're all everywhere.

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I don't know how they have so much strength. They're older than we are.

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HE CHUCKLES

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In Jaipur, even the most essential day-to-day activities

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are done away from the family home.

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Whoo!

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For even something as everyday as a shave,

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most local men go to a barber's.

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Ooh! Dear, oh, dear, oh, dear!

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-Cor blimey!

-LAUGHS

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This would upset your bowels, wouldn't it?

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-CHUCKLES

-Oh, dear!

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Wayne and Bobby have been recommended one by their hosts

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where a shave and a haircut cos under a pound.

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-Wait for me!

-Come on, son.

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The risers are a bit high, so you have to be careful.

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OK.

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How do you do?

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A shave.

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And be nice to me. Have you ever cut anyone?

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Have you? No? Never cut no-one.

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-Keep that up, son.

-How many a day does he do?

-Trying to be 60 or 70.

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-60 or 70? So nobody shaves at home?

-No.

-With electric?

-No.

-No?

-No.

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-Everybody comes here.

-Comes here.

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-Yeah.

-Ah! Was it gentle? You didn't feel anything?

-No, he's very gentle.

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Oh, good. All right, then.

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Makes me ears look big, now I've had a good shave.

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Well, that's what happens, doesn't it?

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Look at mine!

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Yeah.

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It's harder for us, don't you think, to stay young-looking

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-when we're this age?

-Not for me!

-Not for you, darlin'!

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You've got a baby face, haven't you?

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'Don't get old in your head.

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'If you never had a mirror, you wouldn't get old.'

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Cos you can't see yourself, can you?

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So I've took all the mirrors out of the house.

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No, I ain't really!

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I've got hair growing everywhere else but on my head as I get older.

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-Down me nose, out of my ears...

-Yeah.

-It's terrible.

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As I get older, I've realised it's inevitable.

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It's going to happen whether you like it or not!

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So why worry about it?

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Have you found since you've been here

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that the arthritis has been helped by the heat?

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-I think it helps. When it rains and it's cold, you feel it more.

-Yeah.

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For my old bones, that have been doing dancing all these years,

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my muscles feel softer already, just within a few days.

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Yeah.

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Namaste.

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-IT SQUIRTS

-Oh!

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-Sorry!

-LAUGHS

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Miriam and Patti are venturing out, too.

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They need to get some laundry done.

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-You're all ready.

-Ironing and washing...

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Most middle-class families don't do their own washing,

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so host Sushma is taking them to see the lady

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who does the laundry for all the locals.

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She has been doing our ironing...

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and washing for...

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at least four generations.

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Oh, my goodness!

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Hello! Hello! Namaste.

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-Her name is Durga.

-Durga. My name is Miriam.

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-Patti. Come.

-After you.

-Come.

-OK.

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I'll show you the place where she does her washing.

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-OK.

-You need a hand?

-Yep. I'm in.

-Yes.

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-I'm in.

-That's her family.

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Dobanji's whole family are employed in her laundry business.

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Her relatives, her husbands, three brothers, they live in the house.

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Each one of them has a place here,

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and they have floors on top where they live.

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-OK.

-And the older son.

-Oh, that's the older son.

-He's the older son.

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Beautiful wife.

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-Beautiful.

-That's the younger one. And younger daughter-in-law.

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-Why has she got her hair...her face covered?

-As a mark of respect.

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What's the respect? Is it towards her mother-in-law? Or towards you?

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Or towards us?

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It's towards all elderly people.

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I was born in Nigeria, in west Africa, and there, you can't

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look an elderly person in the eyes when they're talking to you.

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People always tell me I should cover my face,

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but I don't think it's for that reason!

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-No! Oh!

-THEY LAUGH

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India has grown on me completely,

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I mean, because India is so much the tradition of respecting

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the elders, so I feel totally at home here.

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I feel like I'm in Africa but with a different language.

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'I'm beginning to understand the ways of life here.'

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Bye-bye.

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'But within the family, I think there is great love,

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'and that's a really nice thing to see.'

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I don't have a family. My parents are dead,

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I have just my partner, and we don't have children.

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So I'm rather a solitary person,

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and I'm not sure how a solitary person

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would fare in this country.

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Living together may be cost-effective,

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but some aren't adjusting to it that well.

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-JAN:

-'Fitting into the group has been difficult.

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'So many of them are larger than life.'

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I just find that a bit difficult, because...

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I mean, I'm insecure, in many ways.

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But I think sometimes people hide their insecurity by sort of

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shouting louder than the next person!

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-MIRIAM:

-We're going to have to look after...

-Jan.

-..Jan,

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because she's fragile.

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-Yes. I know.

-She's fragile.

-And she's out of her own environment.

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-I think she finds it harder than we do, probably.

-Yeah.

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-Do you think that?

-I do think that.

-Yeah. Yeah.

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Back home in Kent, Jan has lived on her own for the last 12 years.

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I didn't think at my age

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that I would be living on my own with a cat.

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'I am not lonely. I am happy.'

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My happiness could be added to!

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-Hello again, Janu.

-Hi.

-Hey, I'm really excited about this.

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-How are you?

-Thank you, I'm very well.

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Jan has asked Janu, the haveli driver,

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to take her to see someone who could help.

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-I tell you something, there's no way I would ever drive in Jaipur.

-Yes.

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I won't even drive in London any more.

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In India, many Hindus use psychic gurus to see what their future

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has in store, and Janu has recommended one for Jan to visit.

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I do believe in astrology.

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Now, let's face it, people only go to an astrologer

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if they've got a problem, either love, money, work...

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You don't go to an astrologer when you're happy.

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Actually, I am happy.

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Before you go, I want to make sure that you're brave enough,

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because you go there to hear the true.

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-Oh, my goodness!

-You go there to hear the true.

-OK.

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So you make sure you are happy to go there.

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Janu, could we go back?

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Good luck.

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Thank you. It's in there?

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Ajay Shrivastava does readings for those seeking enlightenment

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at the back of his jewellery shop.

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Namaste.

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I have an appointment with the guru. Is it all right to go in?

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-Yes.

-Thank you. Namaste.

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Namaste.

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-Namaste.

-Namaste.

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-Have a seat, please.

-Thank you.

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PHONE PLAYS INDIAN MUSIC

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MUSIC STOPS

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-We have only five minutes, because I have yoga class.

-Oh, right!

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-Give me your hand for a second.

-Which?

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The guru doesn't charge anything for his services.

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He believes he has a gift

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which should be available to anyone who needs his help.

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So, go ahead, what do you want to know?

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-I have lived on my own a very long time.

-Mm-hm.

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But relationship has always been a problem with you,

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because you have a massive problem with expression and communication.

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So, like, relationship and fall in love and then things fall apart,

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so like with a man it's always been like this.

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At least six men in your life, same thing is happening.

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You're amazing.

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-You're absolutely right.

-How many children you got?

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One. A son.

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-How old he is?

-34.

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But basically, I think what you need to do, focus, concentration

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and self-loving.

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There's a creativity and things inside you,

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but still you haven't found the peace of mind.

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I haven't, and you're quite right about relationships.

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But having been on my own for 12 years,

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I've got used to it.

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It was very difficult originally. I would love to be...

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I would love to have a companion,

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but my track record would put men off.

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If...

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God or whoever says no, I am OK on my own,

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but I would me much happier...

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You're saying you OK, but I disagree with you.

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You're very lonely. And my suggestion for you,

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you still need to be very careful with depression.

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Whatever you are, howsoever you are, expression is very important.

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Second thing, as you're getting older,

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you need to be very careful with your short-term memory.

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-With my short-term...

-Short-term memory.

-Oh!

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-My mother...

-Symptom of dementia.

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Yes, she did. Ah!

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Because both my grandmothers died of cancer.

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Bowel cancer.

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Yes, they did.

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INDIAN MUSIC PLAYS ON PHONE

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-Thank you so much.

-You're welcome. Take good care.

-Thank you.

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Hopefully see you soon.

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Phew!

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He's good.

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He's good!

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That man definitely has an energy. I could feel it coming into my hand.

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He shocked me when he said "six relationships".

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I mean, he doesn't know me from a bar of soap.

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My life has been totally...

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messed up with men.

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How are you?

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-He's amazing.

-Yes? OK.

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I tell you what, even if I'd wanted to hide anything from him,

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I couldn't.

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-I mean, how could he know?

-I told you before you come.

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-INDIAN WOMAN:

-Ah. That's for the long "ah" sound.

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Back at the haveli,

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some of the group are trying to learn some basic Hindi.

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How would you say to somebody when you meet someone,

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"What is your name?"

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Jan has decided to join the group for the lesson.

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Naam kya hai?

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OK, so maybe you can have a little conversation between the two of you?

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Oh, God!

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-Yes, so...

-Oh!

-Erm, naam kya hai?

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-Wait a minute. Wait a minute.

-Naam... What is "sleep" in, er...

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-Sleep?

-Yeah, sleep.

-Sona.

-Mera naam Sona hai.

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-I'm falling asleep. Sorry.

-CHUCKLES

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I'm so tired!

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I hope it's not the Hindi lesson

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-that's working as a lullaby for you!

-It's concentrating when I'm tired.

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I was just going to say, with our not-very-good accents,

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will they understand us?

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They will. They will, because the context in which you're talking,

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they know what you are actually wanting them to say.

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I've got to keep this active.

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You know, it's absolutely true, if you don't use it, you lose it.

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'And I will be making notes, because I don't remember.

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'I had a very good memory when I was young.

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'Not quite photographic, but very, very good.'

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-WAYNE:

-How would you say, "Would you like to make a date?"

0:17:440:17:46

-TEACHER LAUGHS

-OK!

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In India, you would not say that!

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-I want to be your sort of chaperone.

-You're going to be my chaperone?!

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-I want to get you a rich Indian.

-SHE SCOFFS

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-ROSEMARY:

-Oh, that would be... She ought to have a... Yes, you.

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-That would be perfect for her.

-I don't want a rich...!

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I know this sounds awful but, I mean,

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do people chat each other up, or is it unheard-of?

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-Flirt.

-Do they flirt?

-Erm...

-Not really, no.

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Actually, in Jaipur, we still have a lot

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of what we call the respect in the eyes, you know?

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So if you see somebody you like, it would all be in the face, Jan,

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would it, sort of like looking at somebody like that?

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-So you look at me and I go...

-ROSEMARY:

-That's beautiful.

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And I go...

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WAYNE LAUGHS

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My life is quite fulfilling.

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There's room in it for somebody,

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but unfortunately - I'm not saying anything that most women

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don't think - most men want a much younger woman.

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And look at me and the age I am now.

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-ATUL:

-Breathe in.

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Very gentle dropping.

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Dropping the head back.

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It's 8am, and the group's morning routine has already started.

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And that will reduce pressure on the heart by 33%.

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Yoga's been practised for 5,000 years in India,

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and it's part of the rhythm of life.

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Again with the nose tip. One...

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two...

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If you do it daily, you will be cured of your short-sightedness

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and long-sightedness. You won't need glasses.

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OK, let's start it again, sir. Sir, you also need to take your...

0:19:350:19:39

But Rosemary's finding it tough.

0:19:390:19:42

Would you excuse me? Because I'm going to have to go.

0:19:420:19:45

I've got to go and do something. So, excuse me.

0:19:450:19:47

I need this as much as everybody!

0:19:470:19:50

-But I need to go and move on, so I'm sorry.

-Don't worry, don't worry.

0:19:500:19:54

'That has taught me the most enormous lesson.

0:19:540:19:57

'I am really unfit.'

0:19:570:19:58

Everything was hurting...

0:19:580:20:00

-SHE LAUGHS

-..which is embarrassing,

0:20:000:20:02

because it shouldn't have done, because they were so gentle.

0:20:020:20:05

'And sing...'

0:20:050:20:07

THEY CHANT

0:20:070:20:09

Seriously, I'm actually quite shocked how bad I am,

0:20:130:20:16

because I'm ten years younger than all these here.

0:20:160:20:18

And, um...

0:20:180:20:19

I mean, I think I've... You know.

0:20:190:20:22

I'm reason... I am fit. But I'm not.

0:20:220:20:24

I mean...

0:20:240:20:26

I don't stretch and I don't do any exercise, really.

0:20:260:20:28

I think this is just so...

0:20:290:20:32

In fact, I do none, no exercise at all.

0:20:320:20:34

CUTLERY CLINKS

0:20:340:20:36

She said that when she goes to...

0:20:360:20:39

I take a pill for my blood pressure,

0:20:390:20:41

because my mother had a stroke, she died from that.

0:20:410:20:46

That's what I take it for,

0:20:460:20:48

in order to avoid... try to avoid a stroke.

0:20:480:20:50

If you read in my obituary that I've died of a stroke, you'll say,

0:20:510:20:55

"Oh, poor sod, it didn't work!"

0:20:550:20:57

THEY ALL LAUGH

0:20:570:20:59

I do think it's morbid to think about the autumn of life

0:20:590:21:04

or even the winter.

0:21:040:21:06

I mean, here we are, I'm lucky to have survived this long.

0:21:060:21:11

I'm amazed the neighbours have let me.

0:21:120:21:14

I'm old

0:21:140:21:16

and I didn't expect to be.

0:21:160:21:18

I didn't expect to have to climb stairs one at a time.

0:21:180:21:22

Are you coming to the hospital, Bobby?

0:21:220:21:25

I've got to be there at one.

0:21:250:21:26

India has some of the best and cheapest medical care in the world.

0:21:260:21:31

Some of the group have existing health concerns,

0:21:310:21:33

so they've booked into a local hospital for a full medical checkup.

0:21:330:21:37

So, I'm not sure at the hospital

0:21:380:21:40

whether we are going to have to strip down

0:21:400:21:43

or have a blood test or any of that kind of stuff.

0:21:430:21:46

Well, not blood test.

0:21:460:21:48

I think pressure, high pressure, low pressure, heart...

0:21:480:21:50

Miriam was recently told that she needed an operation.

0:21:520:21:55

I've developed arthritis.

0:21:570:21:59

It means that I don't walk very well

0:21:590:22:01

and I'm going to have a knee replacement operation.

0:22:010:22:04

I'm not ready to slow down.

0:22:040:22:06

If I have to walk more slowly, then I will,

0:22:060:22:10

but I want to walk just as far.

0:22:100:22:13

And there are little scooters that you can go on,

0:22:130:22:15

they're ever such fun.

0:22:150:22:17

You can knock all kinds of people like that.

0:22:170:22:20

That's it, I've got my little stool.

0:22:200:22:23

India has become a Mecca for health tourism,

0:22:260:22:28

with around a quarter of a million people flying here each year

0:22:280:22:32

to take advantage of the cheap private medical treatment.

0:22:320:22:35

I would very much be interested in finding out

0:22:360:22:39

about what it would cost to have an operation in India

0:22:390:22:43

and who would do it and how good they are,

0:22:430:22:46

because I just want the best.

0:22:460:22:47

You know, this is my life.

0:22:470:22:49

I want to see... Check me heart,

0:22:540:22:56

-that's the most important thing to me.

-Yeah.

0:22:560:22:58

And me blood pressure

0:22:580:23:00

and how long I'm going to live.

0:23:000:23:02

We're looking for...

0:23:030:23:05

Well, not Labour and Delivery,

0:23:050:23:07

I think I'm past that one! Um...

0:23:070:23:09

Intensive... Health Check, there we go, straight ahead.

0:23:090:23:13

Straight ahead - Health Check.

0:23:130:23:15

India does have a public health system, but access to it is so poor,

0:23:150:23:19

going private is the only option for the middle classes.

0:23:190:23:22

-I feel so sweaty, it's embarrassing.

-I know, I know.

0:23:240:23:27

I hate being sweaty when people...

0:23:270:23:29

If they have to touch me.

0:23:290:23:30

I don't know whether they're going to touch me.

0:23:300:23:32

They may take one look at me and say, "Urgh!"

0:23:320:23:34

I hope he doesn't have to touch me, full stop.

0:23:340:23:37

164 in height.

0:23:410:23:43

I've shrunk.

0:23:440:23:46

The most comprehensive health check,

0:23:460:23:48

covering everything from blood tests to bone scans, costs just £130.

0:23:480:23:53

In the UK, the same tests done privately would cost over 1,600.

0:23:590:24:03

You stay there.

0:24:040:24:05

HE USES THE TOILET

0:24:090:24:10

My mother had strokes and that's what I'm trying to avoid, of course.

0:24:120:24:16

118 by 80. So it's absolutely normal.

0:24:160:24:19

The pills are working!

0:24:190:24:20

Could I ask how long it takes to get a knee operation?

0:24:240:24:29

It's five to seven days, that's it.

0:24:290:24:31

-Five to seven days?

-Yes.

0:24:310:24:33

Because I have to tell you that in England,

0:24:330:24:36

-it could be up to four months.

-No.

0:24:360:24:38

And that would cost... the knee replacement?

0:24:380:24:42

Around £3,000 for a single and 5,000 for both the knees.

0:24:420:24:47

So you get a discount if you get both knees done!

0:24:470:24:50

Back at home, a knee replacement done privately

0:24:520:24:55

would cost around £11,000.

0:24:550:24:57

Thank you very much.

0:25:020:25:04

I'm impressed by this hospital.

0:25:060:25:09

I would not be worried

0:25:090:25:11

if I got sick and that is a very important area for people of my age.

0:25:110:25:16

You worry about health care.

0:25:160:25:19

Well, I wouldn't worry being here.

0:25:190:25:21

At our age, this is the most important thing, is your body,

0:25:220:25:26

cos things start breaking down and falling to pieces.

0:25:260:25:29

So you've got a good hospital, it's relaxing, isn't it?

0:25:290:25:32

-That's what you're doing now?

-Yes.

0:25:320:25:33

Yes, I've had it done before.

0:25:330:25:35

And the thing down my throat as well, the liquid.

0:25:350:25:38

Bobby's very familiar with the inside of a hospital.

0:25:390:25:42

I wore me body out working, I suppose.

0:25:420:25:44

People think I just threw darts. I used to dig tunnels.

0:25:440:25:47

I used to lay granite floors.

0:25:470:25:49

Just overdone it, wore me body out.

0:25:490:25:52

You look so serious.

0:25:520:25:54

You're taking the blood out of me, I'm not taking it out of you!

0:25:540:25:57

I had metal knees, metal hip...

0:25:580:26:01

..I broke my back in the World Championship.

0:26:020:26:05

I jumped up and I come down wrong and I snapped me back.

0:26:050:26:09

After just five hours, the test results start to arrive.

0:26:200:26:23

-My general health good?

-Well, it's very good.

0:26:260:26:28

-Your heart more or less seems OK.

-OK.

-For my age?

-For your age.

0:26:310:26:35

-Was everything all right, Bobby?

-Yes, everything was perfect.

0:26:350:26:38

Brilliant. What about your heart?

0:26:380:26:41

Perfect, my heart is very strong.

0:26:410:26:43

-Oh, fantastic.

-Slow.

-Still slow?

0:26:430:26:46

-He said, am I an athlete?

-You are.

-I said, yes.

0:26:460:26:49

You are an athlete. An athlete who needs to lose weight, that's all.

0:26:490:26:53

-Oh, thank you, Doctor.

-Yes, yes.

0:26:530:26:55

Well, you could say the same to me.

0:26:550:26:57

I've got to lose a couple of stone,

0:26:590:27:01

because I'm quite heavy. I don't look heavy, but I'm quite heavy.

0:27:010:27:04

It's the drink. It's the beer.

0:27:040:27:06

You put the weight on with the beer.

0:27:060:27:08

If I'm playing darts, I drink a fair amount, probably six,

0:27:080:27:11

seven pints, eight pints a night.

0:27:110:27:13

Miriam has received her results

0:27:150:27:17

and they are not quite what she was expecting.

0:27:170:27:20

The doctor I saw was an orthopaedic surgeon and he confirmed,

0:27:200:27:25

looking at the X-rays of my knees,

0:27:250:27:28

that I do need a knee replacement...

0:27:280:27:30

..probably on both knees,

0:27:310:27:33

which I didn't know,

0:27:330:27:34

but certainly on my right knee, which I did know.

0:27:340:27:37

And he also said that I've got lots of little gallstones...

0:27:380:27:42

..so I'm facing a minimum of two operations in the next year.

0:27:440:27:50

Which is quite a heavy thing at my age.

0:27:510:27:54

So I had better start taking care of myself.

0:27:560:27:59

As far as I'm concerned,

0:27:590:28:01

health is the only thing that is important in life.

0:28:010:28:04

If you've got your health, you can do anything.

0:28:040:28:06

-I'm looking for Mrs Rosemary.

-Rosemary? The doctor's calling you.

0:28:080:28:12

Rosemary is the last to be seen.

0:28:120:28:14

Oh, hello.

0:28:140:28:16

An obesity specialist has arrived to give her the results.

0:28:160:28:19

So when we talk about the ideal weight which anybody should have...

0:28:210:28:24

-Yes.

-The basic thumb rule is that

0:28:240:28:27

height in centimetres minus 100

0:28:270:28:29

and your BOA is coming out to 49.4.

0:28:290:28:31

-Yes, OK.

-So that comes into morbid obesity.

0:28:310:28:35

My job is to tell how important it is for you to lose weight.

0:28:350:28:39

-Number one.

-Yes, I know.

0:28:390:28:41

Drugs are secondary things.

0:28:410:28:43

-The primary thing is the lifestyle management.

-Yes.

0:28:430:28:46

Nobody likes to be told they are morbidly obese.

0:28:460:28:52

It's being spelled out to me...

0:28:520:28:53

..which has never been done before in such a way...

0:28:550:28:57

I can tell you a few tricks...

0:28:570:28:59

..and it is a shock and it does...

0:28:590:29:03

It...

0:29:030:29:05

It doesn't... It does frighten me, obviously,

0:29:050:29:08

because I need to do something about it and obviously I don't want to.

0:29:080:29:12

I find it very upsetting and if I think about it too long,

0:29:120:29:16

I will get very upset.

0:29:160:29:18

So I think I've got to do what I normally do in my life,

0:29:180:29:22

is be strong and do something about it.

0:29:220:29:25

We got back from the hospital terribly late,

0:29:460:29:48

because we've really been investigated from...

0:29:480:29:52

-BLEEP

-to hair follicle, you know.

0:29:520:29:55

-I felt really nervous a couple of times.

-Did you?

0:29:560:30:00

In case it turned out to be you were at death's door?

0:30:000:30:03

Well, we are at that age.

0:30:030:30:05

We're at death's back passage!

0:30:050:30:08

THEY LAUGH

0:30:080:30:09

It's close. I mean, you can't help thinking about it.

0:30:130:30:15

I think about it a lot.

0:30:150:30:17

Hello, pig.

0:30:240:30:26

Hello. Hello.

0:30:260:30:29

I'll have him for my dinner.

0:30:290:30:31

SHE LAUGHS

0:30:340:30:35

I think he's frightened of me, ha-ha!

0:30:350:30:38

As part of her new health regime,

0:30:400:30:42

Rosemary is already up and out for a walk.

0:30:420:30:44

I've thought about it during the evening and I decided, well,

0:30:450:30:49

I might as well start straightaway.

0:30:490:30:52

I have tried every single diet in the world, virtually.

0:30:520:30:55

Well, not quite, but I've done a lot of things.

0:30:550:30:59

Once I fail, I give up

0:30:590:31:02

and I'm lazy.

0:31:020:31:03

It's actually so straightforward,

0:31:030:31:06

but it's just having the strength to get through it.

0:31:060:31:10

As well as state-of-the-art medicine,

0:31:120:31:14

Indians also rely heavily on ancient Ayurvedic practices.

0:31:140:31:18

During her time in Jaipur, Rosemary has become a convert.

0:31:180:31:22

I've got real issues.

0:31:220:31:24

My back is an ongoing thing

0:31:240:31:27

and it is important that I find somewhere

0:31:270:31:30

where I can maybe get my back sorted out

0:31:300:31:32

when it does happen.

0:31:320:31:34

One is to sort the weight out, as well,

0:31:350:31:38

because that doesn't help my back.

0:31:380:31:39

They're using a reservoir made from flour and water

0:31:390:31:42

filled with hot herbal oil to ease Rosemary's back pain.

0:31:420:31:46

It is weird but, I mean, I have never seen this in Britain.

0:31:460:31:51

I tell you, if I was to come and retire here,

0:31:510:31:55

this would certainly be part of my regime.

0:31:550:31:57

Since she arrived in India, Jan has suffered from headaches

0:32:000:32:04

and, on Rosemary's advice, has also booked some alternative therapy.

0:32:040:32:07

Hello.

0:32:110:32:14

-Oh, hello!

-How are you?

0:32:160:32:17

You didn't see me!

0:32:170:32:19

-I can't have those. I have low blood pressure so they're not allowed.

-OK.

0:32:190:32:22

Rosemary has moved on to a steam box treatment.

0:32:240:32:27

The people are lovely, aren't they?

0:32:290:32:31

They're so warm and affectionate.

0:32:310:32:33

Gentle...

0:32:330:32:35

I think you should find a nice Indian, educated man.

0:32:350:32:38

Rosemary!

0:32:400:32:41

I've had enough of men.

0:32:410:32:44

-Have you?

-Mm.

0:32:440:32:45

You are such a glamorous person.

0:32:450:32:48

Oh, rubbish.

0:32:480:32:50

-But you are, Jan!

-I'm not!

0:32:500:32:52

Accept what I'm saying, you are.

0:32:520:32:54

I've lived on my own for 12 years, I've got used to it.

0:32:540:32:58

Yes, I am lonely at times. I would have loved to have had a big family.

0:32:580:33:02

I always most enjoyed at Christmas when I had up to 12 people.

0:33:020:33:06

And now, Christmas, well, it's just another day.

0:33:070:33:11

Well, I mustn't let you have that if that's the case.

0:33:120:33:15

Don't you dare be on your own at Christmas.

0:33:150:33:18

On a sunny weekend, when I can look out of my window

0:33:180:33:21

and I see the families walking along by the beach

0:33:210:33:23

and I see couples hand-in-hand,

0:33:230:33:26

and I think, "Oh, I haven't even got anyone

0:33:260:33:28

"I can go out for a drink with."

0:33:280:33:30

If somebody came into my life who was right,

0:33:320:33:34

that would be absolutely wonderful.

0:33:340:33:37

But I don't think I could live 24/7 with anybody any more.

0:33:370:33:42

Spend weekends together. Go on holiday.

0:33:420:33:45

You see, I don't go on holiday

0:33:450:33:47

because I have no-one to go on holiday with.

0:33:470:33:49

But as someone once said to me,

0:33:490:33:51

"Better first-class loneliness than second-class company."

0:33:510:33:55

I think companionship is very, very important.

0:33:570:34:00

-Are you on your own, Rosemary?

-Yes, I am.

0:34:000:34:03

I've lived on my own for 20 years, but I've been separated.

0:34:030:34:06

I'm still married, I still have a lovely husband,

0:34:060:34:08

but we don't live together.

0:34:080:34:10

-Well, that's weird.

-No, it's not weird at all.

0:34:100:34:13

Circumstances would have been very difficult for him

0:34:130:34:16

to have been with me that moment when we lost everything.

0:34:160:34:19

-So I had to just get on.

-You lost everything?

0:34:190:34:21

-I had to get on.

-What was that?

0:34:210:34:24

It was the recession.

0:34:240:34:25

-Oh.

-We lost in the properties.

0:34:250:34:27

We had properties, we had all sorts of things.

0:34:270:34:30

Cos he needs somebody to help him and things.

0:34:300:34:32

So, for me, it's easier anyway for us to be the way we be.

0:34:320:34:37

-Do you see your husband?

-Oh, yes. I do.

-Oh, right.

0:34:370:34:40

So you don't need anyone?

0:34:400:34:41

Well, the thing is, Jan, I work...

0:34:410:34:44

-I work all the time.

-You're a workaholic.

0:34:440:34:47

I work at weekends, I work every weekend you can imagine.

0:34:470:34:51

Actually doing something, it stops one thinking about oneself, really.

0:34:510:34:55

There has been lonely along the way.

0:35:010:35:05

There are times

0:35:050:35:06

when I've had something, a bad day,

0:35:060:35:09

and you'd love to just talk to someone about it

0:35:090:35:12

and there's no-one to talk to.

0:35:120:35:14

And that is difficult.

0:35:140:35:15

Out of bed. I need lipstick.

0:35:280:35:29

I need lipstick.

0:35:300:35:33

Tonight, the group are hoping

0:35:360:35:38

to make some new local friends on a night out.

0:35:380:35:41

I think all of us are going to the Palladio Club,

0:35:410:35:45

which I think is a club for expats.

0:35:450:35:49

We've been here about a week and we're all excited

0:35:490:35:53

and we like what we've seen,

0:35:530:35:55

or I'm excited and I like what I've seen.

0:35:550:35:57

But I need to get the truth, really.

0:35:570:35:59

It's going to be very, very interesting.

0:35:590:36:02

I'd like to take a notepad with me, which might look a bit...

0:36:020:36:04

I can't remember things any more.

0:36:040:36:07

What about this? Too much?

0:36:070:36:09

Well, it depends how warm you're going to be.

0:36:090:36:11

Well, no, but does it look too much with all this white?

0:36:110:36:14

-Or shall I put my dark blue...?

-It breaks the white up.

0:36:140:36:17

Or shall I wear my black trousers with the black waistcoat?

0:36:170:36:20

Bar Palladio is a popular meeting spot for Western expats.

0:36:400:36:44

Many of the clientele have lived in Jaipur for years.

0:36:450:36:48

Wow! Look at this place.

0:36:510:36:53

-Hi, I'm Ophelia.

-Ophelia.

0:36:550:36:56

And you're from here, or...?

0:36:560:36:58

-Originally from France.

-Oh, wonderful!

0:36:580:37:00

-That's why I have this terrible accent.

-Bonsoir, bonsoir.

0:37:000:37:03

-This is Roy.

-Hi, Roy.

0:37:030:37:05

Bonsoir, madame.

0:37:050:37:06

-Bonsoir.

-You've got very strong hands.

0:37:060:37:09

-So what do you do here?

-I'm a jewellery designer.

0:37:090:37:12

-Yes!

-Have you met Patti Boulaye?

-Hello.

0:37:120:37:14

-Are you partners?

-No, no.

0:37:160:37:18

-One has to ask these days.

-Yes, yes.

0:37:180:37:21

See, this is the part I need to find before I go home.

0:37:210:37:25

Because I've got... I'm gay.

0:37:250:37:27

I've got to bring my partner back.

0:37:280:37:30

I've been talking to friends about the homosexuality in India

0:37:310:37:35

and they say be careful.

0:37:350:37:37

Homosexuality in India was made legal in 2009,

0:37:370:37:41

but the High Court overturned the decision

0:37:410:37:44

and made it illegal once again a few years later.

0:37:440:37:47

-I'm Wayne.

-Will.

-Wayne and Will.

0:37:470:37:49

-Do you know Wayne? Possibly?

-No!

0:37:490:37:52

-Wayne is a very, very...

-Oh, stop it!

-Oh, shut up!

0:37:520:37:54

..a very, very famous ballet dancer.

0:37:540:37:57

And the smallest you've ever met.

0:37:570:37:59

I'm interested to see if and how a gay community works,

0:37:590:38:05

if a gay community is there, first of all.

0:38:050:38:07

She certainly did.

0:38:070:38:09

What can I do? I am gay.

0:38:110:38:13

I don't think it's unnoticeable, because I have a little frill.

0:38:130:38:17

I do drop my wrists occasionally.

0:38:170:38:19

-Do you like it really hot?

-Yeah, yeah.

0:38:190:38:21

-So do I!

-I love...

0:38:220:38:24

Oh, are we talking about the food?!

0:38:240:38:26

Wayne has met events organiser Will,

0:38:260:38:28

who has lived in India for four years

0:38:280:38:29

and is openly gay amongst his friends.

0:38:290:38:32

If I thought of moving here with my husband,

0:38:320:38:36

what kind of animosity would I expect

0:38:360:38:40

if two men were living in one house?

0:38:400:38:43

There is really very little homophobia. Um...

0:38:430:38:46

So it's like a safe place,

0:38:460:38:49

-but it just is like a taboo subject.

-It's a what?

0:38:490:38:52

A taboo subject.

0:38:520:38:54

-Oh, taboo.

-So you just don't really talk about it that often.

0:38:540:38:56

You have to learn in which situations you can be gay,

0:38:560:39:00

in which situations you are just quiet about it,

0:39:000:39:03

in which situations you feel comfortable.

0:39:030:39:06

-It still is collectively...

-It's still in the closet.

0:39:060:39:09

When something is really nice, we say "lovely jubbly".

0:39:090:39:13

-Jubb-a-lee.

-Lovely jubbly. We say that.

0:39:130:39:16

-Lovely jubbly.

-That's it, OK.

0:39:160:39:18

I think it could be great.

0:39:180:39:19

It would be much nicer to retire here than somewhere like Eastbourne.

0:39:190:39:22

Jan has the chance to find out from fellow Brit Emma

0:39:230:39:26

about what life is like for single women in Jaipur.

0:39:260:39:29

I've been living out here on my own for the last five years.

0:39:290:39:32

That's why I asked. Is it...? It's possible?

0:39:320:39:34

Yes, of course, absolutely.

0:39:340:39:36

I have my own apartment within the family house,

0:39:360:39:39

so it's quite nice, because I have my own space. It's completely...

0:39:390:39:42

I would need that.

0:39:420:39:44

But then I open the door and the family is there, kind of thing.

0:39:440:39:47

And that would suit me, because I've lived on my own for so long now.

0:39:470:39:52

I love people, but I want my own space.

0:39:520:39:55

That would be wonderful.

0:39:550:39:57

They take you into their heart, they completely take you in

0:39:570:40:00

and they'd do anything for you - anything.

0:40:000:40:02

In England, I live on my own and, frankly, if I died,

0:40:020:40:05

it would be several days before anybody will know.

0:40:050:40:07

Here, I mean, people would know here and they'd really look out for you.

0:40:070:40:10

Hearing about the support available for single women

0:40:100:40:13

has opened Jan's eyes to new possibilities.

0:40:130:40:16

I come from a very small family

0:40:180:40:20

and now there's only my son in Sydney,

0:40:200:40:23

so maybe I'll just have to adopt and adapt

0:40:230:40:28

to an Indian family, if they'll take me in.

0:40:280:40:30

It makes me feel I want to come.

0:40:320:40:33

It's 7:30am at Jaipur Junction Railway Station.

0:40:530:40:56

Although the group have travelled all over the city,

0:40:590:41:01

today is their chance to test out long-distance travel.

0:41:010:41:05

They are heading off to see the jewel in India's crown.

0:41:050:41:08

I think we have to go over here.

0:41:080:41:09

India has got thousands and thousands of years of culture.

0:41:090:41:13

They were more advanced than we were

0:41:130:41:15

and that would be a very exciting thing to go and see.

0:41:150:41:18

The group are making the 150-mile journey east

0:41:200:41:22

to the state of Uttar Pradesh

0:41:220:41:24

to see one of the wonders of the world -

0:41:240:41:26

the Taj Mahal.

0:41:260:41:28

I don't quite get this.

0:41:280:41:30

Erm...

0:41:300:41:32

-15. We want the nine o'clock.

-The nine o'clock.

0:41:320:41:35

Making the four-hour journey by train

0:41:350:41:37

are Rosemary, Wayne, Miriam, Sylvester and Bobby.

0:41:370:41:41

I'm bloody sure it's platform one!

0:41:410:41:44

It's either one or two.

0:41:440:41:46

-One or the other.

-Come on. Let's go to platform one.

0:41:460:41:48

-MIRIAM:

-I'd love to go on trains and buses.

0:41:500:41:54

I don't like...

0:41:540:41:56

air-conditioned, chauffeured limousines.

0:41:560:42:00

That's not what I'm used to and I don't want that.

0:42:000:42:03

The station deals with 35,000 passengers a day

0:42:060:42:10

and is the busiest in Rajasthan.

0:42:100:42:12

I won't go on top of the train.

0:42:120:42:14

No, I think they're dodgy. It's a bit dodgy.

0:42:140:42:16

But I would like to go on the train and see what it's like.

0:42:160:42:19

To see how the people travel.

0:42:190:42:22

-Excuse me? Do you speak English?

-Sorry?

0:42:220:42:24

-Do you speak English?

-No.

-OK.

0:42:240:42:27

With trains passing through the station

0:42:270:42:29

heading to 50 different destinations every hour,

0:42:290:42:31

they need to make sure they get on the right one.

0:42:310:42:34

Is this going to Agra?

0:42:340:42:36

-Agra?

-Is this going to Agra?

-Agra?

0:42:360:42:38

-No.

-No?

-No?

0:42:380:42:40

-No. Delhi. Delhi.

-Delhi, not Agra?

0:42:400:42:42

-Not Agra?

-No Agra. Agra, nahi.

-OK, thank you.

0:42:420:42:45

-The train.

-The train.

0:42:460:42:49

-We're going to Agra.

-Agra.

-Yes.

0:42:490:42:52

Train will have the apartment instructions.

0:42:520:42:54

-Will you show us? Come with us.

-Yes.

0:42:540:42:57

Come with us. Come and show us the way.

0:42:570:42:59

That's brilliant. Where's Miriam?

0:42:590:43:01

I don't want to lose Miriam.

0:43:010:43:04

I'm just waiting for you.

0:43:040:43:06

Everybody, I've got a guide!

0:43:060:43:08

-Is this our train?

-No.

0:43:100:43:11

-Oh, no, no, no! This is not it!

-No.

0:43:110:43:14

-Not it.

-After this.

-OK.

0:43:140:43:16

-Our train is after this.

-The next one?

0:43:160:43:19

Blimey! This is exhausting.

0:43:190:43:22

Maybe we should have gone by car.

0:43:230:43:25

Well, we're on our way!

0:43:290:43:31

Hooray!

0:43:310:43:33

-Only an hour late.

-Only an hour late.

0:43:340:43:37

THEY LAUGH

0:43:370:43:38

Roy, Jan and Patti have chosen the five-hour road trip to the Taj.

0:43:380:43:42

HORNS BEEP

0:43:420:43:44

-PATTI:

-I want a car with a driver.

0:43:440:43:47

I'm not going on buses.

0:43:470:43:49

I have experienced that in Lagos

0:43:490:43:52

and I'm not about to do that in India.

0:43:520:43:55

Not at my age.

0:43:550:43:58

They're being driven by haveli driver, Janu.

0:43:580:44:00

-ALL:

-# Ooh, there's only one Janu... #

0:44:000:44:04

Their 300-mile round trip by car

0:44:040:44:06

is costing around £100 between them.

0:44:060:44:09

You all right, son?

0:44:120:44:14

While for the others, the total cost of five return tickets is £60.

0:44:140:44:18

I've never been...

0:44:200:44:22

-surrounded by so many admiring men for a very long time.

-I know.

0:44:220:44:26

I'd have worn a tighter bra if I'd known.

0:44:260:44:28

ROSEMARY LAUGHS

0:44:280:44:30

HE SIGHS

0:44:300:44:31

Thanks.

0:44:310:44:32

-MAN SPEAKS HIS OWN LANGUAGE

-All right?

-Yep.

0:44:320:44:35

-Right, so bottle of beer...

-Bottle of beer...

0:44:350:44:38

I might have a little kip in the train. Are you going to have a kip?

0:44:400:44:44

I don't think I can avoid it. I'm so tired.

0:44:440:44:47

-Cos I was up all night

-BLEEP,

-you know.

0:44:480:44:51

TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS

0:44:510:44:52

Yes! This must be it.

0:44:520:44:54

TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS

0:44:540:44:56

The train is packed,

0:44:560:44:57

so the pensioners have had to book into different carriages.

0:44:570:45:00

64 to 1.

0:45:000:45:03

That sounds like a bet.

0:45:030:45:05

The gentlemen are in third class...

0:45:050:45:07

-Yes, this is the one.

-But that's second class.

0:45:070:45:09

..the ladies, in second class.

0:45:090:45:11

-Yes, this is the one. It's got the number here.

-Oh.

0:45:110:45:13

We have to go further down.

0:45:130:45:14

No, we need B. We're further up. This is BE1.

0:45:140:45:17

We're B1.

0:45:170:45:18

-Thank you.

-Thank you so much.

-Thank you so much.

-Thank you.

0:45:180:45:23

-B1, here's B1! This one.

-B1?

0:45:230:45:26

You can just about see it written up there. I mean, it's not very clear.

0:45:260:45:30

-We need 11 and 12.

-Which...? A1?

-A1.

-Yeah, this is...

0:45:300:45:33

The group will be on the train for four hours.

0:45:330:45:38

What does that say? Yeah?

0:45:380:45:40

3, 2, 1. You're 5.

0:45:400:45:43

Excuse me? What number are you? 1. 1.

0:45:430:45:46

OK. Thank you.

0:45:480:45:50

Safely on the train,

0:45:520:45:53

they now need to get to grips with the seating arrangements.

0:45:530:45:57

If he wants to lie down

0:45:570:46:00

-then we have to go up?

-Up.

0:46:000:46:03

-And then I have to go up?

-Yes.

0:46:030:46:05

OK. Well, that's all right. So, you know...

0:46:050:46:08

Well, I'm small enough to crawl to the top, I suppose.

0:46:080:46:12

-Is this...? Is this 11?

-Yeah, yeah.

0:46:120:46:15

That's 11? Ah! So I have to get up?

0:46:150:46:17

-You sit here!

-How do I get up there?

0:46:170:46:20

-You want to show me?

-Yeah.

0:46:200:46:22

Like this.

0:46:220:46:24

It's very simple.

0:46:240:46:25

Put that...

0:46:260:46:28

-Yeah.

-Yep.

0:46:280:46:30

Hold that.

0:46:300:46:31

SHE GRUNTS

0:46:330:46:34

-Ooh!

-LAUGHTER

0:46:340:46:36

-I think maybe...

-No!

0:46:360:46:37

LAUGHTER

0:46:390:46:40

It's very testing and rather exhausting, actually.

0:46:400:46:45

I feel a bit whacked.

0:46:450:46:47

-Goodnight.

-Goodnight.

-Sweet dreams.

-Sweet dreams.

0:46:470:46:51

Ah, this is the life!

0:46:510:46:53

-Wahey!

-No, you've got to go headfirst.

0:46:540:46:57

-Yes, put my head in first.

-Got to go headfirst.

0:46:570:46:59

I don't know where to put my foot.

0:46:590:47:00

HE SIGHS

0:47:000:47:03

That's it.

0:47:030:47:04

HE GRUNTS

0:47:060:47:08

That's it. Crawl on them like you're a...

0:47:080:47:11

-A commando?

-Yeah, the SAS, son.

-Yes.

0:47:110:47:13

HE PANTS

0:47:130:47:14

I couldn't do it, see? I could never do that.

0:47:150:47:18

HE GRUNTS

0:47:180:47:19

Oh, look!

0:47:310:47:32

-There you go.

-Ah!

0:47:330:47:35

An hour into their journey, Rosemary and Miriam have worked out that,

0:47:360:47:39

in second class, they CAN turn their bed into seats.

0:47:390:47:42

Wouldn't it be good to have a good cup of tea?

0:47:460:47:48

What I really would like is a flush toilet.

0:47:480:47:51

ROSEMARY LAUGHS

0:47:510:47:52

And I don't think I'm going to get that for quite a while.

0:47:520:47:55

No. Have you got your...? Have you got your...loo roll with you?

0:47:550:47:59

Oh, I never travel without it.

0:47:590:48:01

ROSEMARY LAUGHS

0:48:010:48:02

I think it's one of the things you learn as you get older.

0:48:020:48:05

-Yeah, I've got...

-Take loo roll.

-Always be prepared.

0:48:050:48:09

Well, you've either got to be prepared

0:48:100:48:13

or have a very tough sphincter.

0:48:130:48:15

And I don't know that I have.

0:48:160:48:18

Patti, Jan and Roy are two hours into their five-hour journey

0:48:280:48:31

to the Taj Mahal.

0:48:310:48:33

..While its creator, Emperor Shah Jahan, said,

0:48:330:48:37

"It made the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes".

0:48:370:48:42

My wish list, of course, would be to see the Taj Mahal.

0:48:420:48:47

The Taj was built by Emperor Shah Jahan

0:48:470:48:49

to lay his favourite wife to rest.

0:48:490:48:52

The magnificent tomb is a symbol of his love for her.

0:48:520:48:56

-JAN:

-I'm very sentimental and romantic

0:48:560:48:58

and it's just wonderful now to have this opportunity,

0:48:580:49:01

because when you live on your own, I mean...

0:49:010:49:03

I'm not a scaredy-cat, I'll go and do things,

0:49:030:49:05

but I certainly wouldn't go to India on my own,

0:49:050:49:08

so this is a whole new culture, and, at my age, I'm...

0:49:080:49:12

you know, grabbing each day.

0:49:120:49:13

SYLVESTER HUMS

0:49:170:49:19

With an hour left until they reach Agra,

0:49:190:49:22

Sylvester is searching for second class and the rest of his group.

0:49:220:49:26

I don't know where they are.

0:49:260:49:27

SINGING

0:49:310:49:33

Oh, they're singing.

0:49:330:49:35

Hello.

0:49:350:49:37

Oh, they're singing in here.

0:49:370:49:38

THEY SING IN THEIR OWN LANGUAGE

0:49:380:49:40

Rosemary and Wayne are busy making friends

0:49:430:49:46

with their fellow travellers.

0:49:460:49:48

The car is still 85 miles from the monument to love.

0:50:020:50:05

-I've had my heart broken by a girl at school.

-Really?

0:50:050:50:10

Right. I've no idea why I fell for her,

0:50:100:50:13

because I hardly even spoke to her.

0:50:130:50:15

We used to go to a little sweet shop,

0:50:150:50:17

but sometimes they had a lucky bag

0:50:170:50:19

and there was a ring in this one, you know.

0:50:190:50:21

-Ooh!

-Oh!

-And, er...

0:50:210:50:23

I was passing her in the corridor and I slipped it into her hand.

0:50:230:50:27

And she went...

0:50:270:50:28

-Oh, no!

-Oh, Roy!

0:50:300:50:33

I didn't go back to school.

0:50:330:50:34

-Oh!

-LAUGHTER

0:50:340:50:36

Have you...? Have you ever had your heart broken?

0:50:360:50:39

Me?

0:50:390:50:41

-No.

-SHE LAUGHS

0:50:410:50:43

Lucky you.

0:50:430:50:44

This is the best thing! Oh, my God.

0:50:440:50:49

-What is it?

-Here? Yeah.

0:50:490:50:51

WOMAN SPEAKS IN HER OWN LANGUAGE

0:50:510:50:52

The local ladies are on a religious pilgrimage

0:50:520:50:55

and are decorating their hands with henna.

0:50:550:50:57

-What does it mean?

-What does it mean?

0:50:570:50:59

Close...relationship with the man?

0:51:030:51:05

Yes, I see. With the husband. Very good.

0:51:050:51:08

-What's your hands saying?

-Michael.

-Michael?

0:51:080:51:11

-Michael.

-Michael.

0:51:110:51:13

-We're separated. How can I tell her?

-Oh, you're separated?

0:51:130:51:15

-Yes, we're separated.

-Erm...

-Excuse me. No, no, no.

0:51:150:51:18

-No.

-They are separate?

-No. Rosemary here. Separate.

0:51:180:51:20

I still have a memory.

0:51:230:51:25

I still have memories. Yes, yes.

0:51:250:51:27

-Oh, well!

-Go on, then. Go on. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:51:270:51:30

So you still have good memories?

0:51:300:51:32

What they were saying was,

0:51:320:51:33

if you put the man's name on your hand, it makes you closer.

0:51:330:51:37

You take it into your heart.

0:51:370:51:39

We had a lot of very good times.

0:51:390:51:42

And we still have good times, but it's slightly different.

0:51:420:51:45

But still... But still have him remember the good times,

0:51:450:51:49

which I've got.

0:51:490:51:50

How long were you married for?

0:51:530:51:55

I was married for 26 years.

0:51:550:51:59

We had our 25th anniversary.

0:51:590:52:01

We did the whole of Paris in a weekend, you know.

0:52:010:52:04

Oh, it was wonderful.

0:52:040:52:06

-Unfortunately, 12 months later, she passed.

-Oh, no.

0:52:060:52:10

But at least you did that.

0:52:100:52:11

-Yeah, yeah.

-Ahh!

-You wish you'd done more.

0:52:110:52:14

Unable to hold on for the whole of the long journey,

0:52:150:52:18

Miriam has had to brave the onboard facilities.

0:52:180:52:22

There was a flush toilet and it flushed and it was a toilet.

0:52:220:52:26

-EAST EUROPEAN ACCENT:

-Was it like a toilet that I know?

0:52:260:52:29

-LAUGHTER

-Never in my life

0:52:290:52:31

did I see a toilet like that. That was...

0:52:310:52:35

You know, that was quite a special toilet.

0:52:350:52:37

-LAUGHTER

-But it was a toilet, so...

0:52:370:52:40

LAUGHTER

0:52:400:52:41

-NORMAL VOICE:

-I was grateful for it.

0:52:410:52:43

Bang on schedule, the train pulls into Agra Fort Station.

0:52:470:52:50

-I think we should get off.

-Ready.

0:52:520:52:54

There's a step here.

0:52:540:52:56

You got it.

0:52:560:52:57

Well, let's go and find the others.

0:52:590:53:00

The train journey was all right. It was...

0:53:050:53:08

99% of it, I went to sleep.

0:53:080:53:09

So, yeah, I would use the trains, cos you just go to bed.

0:53:110:53:15

Thank you. It's been a lovely, lovely, lovely...

0:53:150:53:18

Thank you so much.

0:53:180:53:19

It was wonderful! Wonderful.

0:53:200:53:23

That train journey, I have to say,

0:53:230:53:24

one of the best train journeys I've ever had in my whole life, ever.

0:53:240:53:28

If I was to retire here,

0:53:280:53:29

it would be a wonderful way to go, and what fun. I mean, what fun!

0:53:290:53:33

-Rosemary, why don't you come with me?

-OK.

-Are you all right with them?

0:53:330:53:36

I'll go with...

0:53:360:53:38

-Sylvester.

-Sylvester.

-OK.

0:53:380:53:40

And the Fuhrer.

0:53:400:53:41

-BOTH:

-And the Fuhrer.

-LAUGHTER

0:53:410:53:44

The station is two miles away from the Taj Mahal.

0:53:440:53:47

HORN BEEPS

0:53:470:53:50

Whey! It's like dodgems.

0:53:500:53:52

Great fun.

0:53:520:53:53

Five.

0:53:530:53:55

-ALL:

-Five on a bike.

0:53:550:53:57

-I think that's the world record so far.

-Yeah, five on a bike.

0:53:570:54:00

-Ah, a brass band!

-That's amazing!

0:54:000:54:03

BRASS BAND PLAYS

0:54:030:54:05

Ah, fabulous!

0:54:050:54:07

Oh, my goodness. Look at that!

0:54:070:54:08

-Look, look, look.

-This is the East Gate.

-Look!

0:54:080:54:11

Oh, it's there!

0:54:110:54:12

Taj Mahal, East Gate.

0:54:170:54:18

-South Gate, straight on.

-South Gate, straight on.

0:54:180:54:22

It is very hot.

0:54:220:54:24

Today, in Agra, it's 38 degrees,

0:54:240:54:27

and much more humid than Jaipur.

0:54:270:54:29

Are you OK? Do you think you'll make it, or...?

0:54:320:54:34

I don't know.

0:54:340:54:35

I'll have to.

0:54:350:54:37

This is hot.

0:54:390:54:41

I'm not so good in the heat.

0:54:410:54:44

SHE SIGHS HEAVILY

0:54:440:54:45

Here we go. Steps.

0:54:470:54:50

-BOTH:

-Do you want some help?

-No.

-Are you all right, Miriam?

0:54:500:54:52

-I'm all right, as long as I hold on to the...

-Hold on.

0:54:520:54:55

..to the burning poles.

0:54:550:54:57

-LAUGHTER

-Dear God.

-They're high steps.

0:54:570:54:59

-Wow. That's only the gate!

-I know.

0:55:030:55:05

LAUGHTER

0:55:050:55:07

Every year, three million people visit the Taj Mahal,

0:55:070:55:11

widely regarded as the world's greatest monument to love.

0:55:110:55:14

I just have to keep going,

0:55:160:55:19

because otherwise I stop.

0:55:190:55:21

I want to see it!

0:55:210:55:22

Look at that!

0:55:240:55:26

Isn't that amazing?

0:55:260:55:27

How beautiful.

0:55:270:55:28

-It's a monument of love.

-Look at it.

0:55:300:55:33

ROSEMARY GASPS

0:55:330:55:35

-It looks like it, doesn't it?

-It feels it.

-Yeah.

0:55:350:55:38

You believe it's a work of love.

0:55:380:55:40

It's unbelievable. It's mind-blowing.

0:55:530:55:57

I'm going to have a selfie.

0:55:570:55:58

CAMERA CLICKS

0:56:000:56:01

You come to a place like this

0:56:030:56:05

and it does make you think about your own life.

0:56:050:56:07

I had a most wonderful husband,

0:56:070:56:11

two wonderful children, and I had this...

0:56:110:56:14

this wonderful life, and I've lost a lot of that. I've lost...

0:56:140:56:17

I lost a lot of the love, and I...

0:56:170:56:19

I really am a person who would love to be loved.

0:56:190:56:22

I mean, really loved and felt, you know, special.

0:56:220:56:26

And I think that's one thing we all want -

0:56:260:56:28

we all want to be loved.

0:56:280:56:30

Jose!

0:56:300:56:32

Is the sound on?

0:56:320:56:34

Can you see me?

0:56:340:56:35

Guess where I am.

0:56:370:56:38

Look!

0:56:390:56:40

-It's my anniversary tomorrow.

-Oh, is it?

-Wedding anniversary.

-Oh!

0:56:430:56:46

I thought, that's it, I'm taking a picture and I'm going to send it

0:56:460:56:48

to my husband. This is what I want.

0:56:480:56:50

LAUGHTER, ALL CHATTER

0:56:500:56:52

My wife would have loved to have been here.

0:56:540:56:57

Very few know what love is.

0:56:570:56:59

Do you?

0:56:590:57:00

You bet.

0:57:000:57:02

Do you miss me?

0:57:020:57:04

I love you.

0:57:040:57:05

It's such a beautiful place.

0:57:090:57:11

I would love to have been here with someone I love.

0:57:110:57:14

It's also been emotional for me,

0:57:140:57:17

because although he left me 20 years ago,

0:57:170:57:21

the love of my life...

0:57:210:57:22

..was cremated yesterday.

0:57:250:57:26

And I went up there

0:57:280:57:30

and I wished I'd believed in heaven.

0:57:300:57:32

And I don't any more.

0:57:320:57:33

So it has been emotional.

0:57:350:57:37

Obviously, I would have liked to have been with my partner

0:57:390:57:42

sharing this beautiful experience.

0:57:420:57:45

To come here...

0:57:450:57:48

Wow.

0:57:480:57:49

I don't have words...

0:57:520:57:55

for that.

0:57:550:57:56

It speaks for itself.

0:57:590:58:01

-Madness.

-HORN BEEPS

0:58:070:58:09

Next time, the group visit the holiest Hindu city...

0:58:090:58:12

Oh! Hit by a bull.

0:58:120:58:14

Anybody who goes to India and isn't interested in Indian religions

0:58:140:58:17

is a muffin!

0:58:170:58:19

..get down with Jaipur's party scene...

0:58:190:58:21

This has been one of the most fabulous evenings

0:58:210:58:25

I've had in a decade!

0:58:250:58:27

..and have a right laugh. LAUGHTER

0:58:270:58:30

If I went over my park doing that,

0:58:300:58:32

-they'd think I'm a nutcase.

-LAUGHTER

0:58:320:58:34

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