Episode 2 The Real Marigold Hotel

India, a country bursting with colour and beauty.

I don't have words for that.

With year-round warm weather and a low cost of living...

..could it be the perfect place to retire?

I would love it - a different way of life,

where money might last longer, and a wonderful climate.

I want to have a comfortable old age.

Let's go somewhere and live like kings.

Your Majesty!

Inspired by the film, eight well-known pensioners

are going on a real-life adventure in the city of Jaipur.

-Welcome to Jaipur.

-I'm in! My bum is in.

And they've set up a unique retirement home

in the heart of the old city.

-Is this the way to the market, though?

-I don't know!

We can give it a go. Hello!

After trying to fend for themselves...

It's banging around!

Oh, my giddy aunt!

..they've hired staff and begun to explore the local area.

There wouldn't be enough years of retirement to take it all in.

-Oh, wow!

-Unbelievable!

But will they navigate the challenges India poses...

Blimey! This is exhausting.

..and find somewhere new to call home on the other side of the world?

You can't avoid loving this place. Magical!

BIRDSONG

-INDIAN MAN:

-A very good morning!

-ALL:

-Good morning!

Everybody, all of you look good this morning!

Close your eyes.

Let go of all your desires...

..and see what wonders it does to your body.

It's the second week of living together in the haveli,

and the group have begun to embrace the local way of life.

Wayne, Roy, Sylvester and Patti are up early for their yoga lesson

with instructor Atul.

Breathing through the nose.

You breathe in through the mouth. Blow out your cheeks.

And straighten your mouth. Breathe out of the nose.

Atul's yoga is specially designed for senior citizens,

and it's more than just exercise,

focusing on meditation and mental wellbeing.

I'm definitely going to start yoga classes and meditation.

Those are two very important things in my life now.

Take your hands up.

Just brought us into, like, a sanctuary of peace and happiness.

You feel calmness.

But not everyone has been converted to the benefits of yoga.

I really like a fan. I REALLY like a fan. I just love that blowy feeling.

And when you fart, it sort of blows it away really quickly.

So nobody sort of almost notices.

If you're a slightly windy person, like I am.

JAN LAUGHS

I love the strangeness of India,

the fact that it's a completely different culture,

the unexpected things that happen here,

-the imminence of

-BLEEP

-myself, you know.

And Miriam isn't the only one suffering.

I've still got the squits! You know, we all have squits.

I think everybody's suffering.

But the only thing is, I'm just trying...

I need to stay around the room for maybe a little longer.

It's part and parcel of India, my dear!

OK, I've got to go again. I'm sorry.

HORNS BLARE

-BOBBY:

-The thing I like about India, everyone's busy.

Everyone's going somewhere, to get something.

They're like ants. They're all everywhere.

I don't know how they have so much strength. They're older than we are.

HE CHUCKLES

In Jaipur, even the most essential day-to-day activities

are done away from the family home.

Whoo!

For even something as everyday as a shave,

most local men go to a barber's.

Ooh! Dear, oh, dear, oh, dear!

-Cor blimey!

-LAUGHS

This would upset your bowels, wouldn't it?

-CHUCKLES

-Oh, dear!

Wayne and Bobby have been recommended one by their hosts

where a shave and a haircut cos under a pound.

-Wait for me!

-Come on, son.

The risers are a bit high, so you have to be careful.

OK.

How do you do?

A shave.

And be nice to me. Have you ever cut anyone?

Have you? No? Never cut no-one.

-Keep that up, son.

-How many a day does he do?

-Trying to be 60 or 70.

-60 or 70? So nobody shaves at home?

-No.

-With electric?

-No.

-No?

-No.

-Everybody comes here.

-Comes here.

-Yeah.

-Ah! Was it gentle? You didn't feel anything?

-No, he's very gentle.

Oh, good. All right, then.

Makes me ears look big, now I've had a good shave.

Well, that's what happens, doesn't it?

Look at mine!

Yeah.

It's harder for us, don't you think, to stay young-looking

-when we're this age?

-Not for me!

-Not for you, darlin'!

You've got a baby face, haven't you?

'Don't get old in your head.

'If you never had a mirror, you wouldn't get old.'

Cos you can't see yourself, can you?

So I've took all the mirrors out of the house.

No, I ain't really!

I've got hair growing everywhere else but on my head as I get older.

-Down me nose, out of my ears...

-Yeah.

-It's terrible.

As I get older, I've realised it's inevitable.

It's going to happen whether you like it or not!

So why worry about it?

Have you found since you've been here

that the arthritis has been helped by the heat?

-I think it helps. When it rains and it's cold, you feel it more.

-Yeah.

For my old bones, that have been doing dancing all these years,

my muscles feel softer already, just within a few days.

Yeah.

Namaste.

-IT SQUIRTS

-Oh!

-Sorry!

-LAUGHS

Miriam and Patti are venturing out, too.

They need to get some laundry done.

-You're all ready.

-Ironing and washing...

Most middle-class families don't do their own washing,

so host Sushma is taking them to see the lady

who does the laundry for all the locals.

She has been doing our ironing...

and washing for...

at least four generations.

Oh, my goodness!

Hello! Hello! Namaste.

-Her name is Durga.

-Durga. My name is Miriam.

-Patti. Come.

-After you.

-Come.

-OK.

I'll show you the place where she does her washing.

-OK.

-You need a hand?

-Yep. I'm in.

-Yes.

-I'm in.

-That's her family.

Dobanji's whole family are employed in her laundry business.

Her relatives, her husbands, three brothers, they live in the house.

Each one of them has a place here,

and they have floors on top where they live.

-OK.

-And the older son.

-Oh, that's the older son.

-He's the older son.

Beautiful wife.

-Beautiful.

-That's the younger one. And younger daughter-in-law.

-Why has she got her hair...her face covered?

-As a mark of respect.

What's the respect? Is it towards her mother-in-law? Or towards you?

Or towards us?

It's towards all elderly people.

I was born in Nigeria, in west Africa, and there, you can't

look an elderly person in the eyes when they're talking to you.

People always tell me I should cover my face,

but I don't think it's for that reason!

-No! Oh!

-THEY LAUGH

India has grown on me completely,

I mean, because India is so much the tradition of respecting

the elders, so I feel totally at home here.

I feel like I'm in Africa but with a different language.

'I'm beginning to understand the ways of life here.'

Bye-bye.

'But within the family, I think there is great love,

'and that's a really nice thing to see.'

I don't have a family. My parents are dead,

I have just my partner, and we don't have children.

So I'm rather a solitary person,

and I'm not sure how a solitary person

would fare in this country.

Living together may be cost-effective,

but some aren't adjusting to it that well.

-JAN:

-'Fitting into the group has been difficult.

'So many of them are larger than life.'

I just find that a bit difficult, because...

I mean, I'm insecure, in many ways.

But I think sometimes people hide their insecurity by sort of

shouting louder than the next person!

-MIRIAM:

-We're going to have to look after...

-Jan.

-..Jan,

because she's fragile.

-Yes. I know.

-She's fragile.

-And she's out of her own environment.

-I think she finds it harder than we do, probably.

-Yeah.

-Do you think that?

-I do think that.

-Yeah. Yeah.

Back home in Kent, Jan has lived on her own for the last 12 years.

I didn't think at my age

that I would be living on my own with a cat.

'I am not lonely. I am happy.'

My happiness could be added to!

-Hello again, Janu.

-Hi.

-Hey, I'm really excited about this.

-How are you?

-Thank you, I'm very well.

Jan has asked Janu, the haveli driver,

to take her to see someone who could help.

-I tell you something, there's no way I would ever drive in Jaipur.

-Yes.

I won't even drive in London any more.

In India, many Hindus use psychic gurus to see what their future

has in store, and Janu has recommended one for Jan to visit.

I do believe in astrology.

Now, let's face it, people only go to an astrologer

if they've got a problem, either love, money, work...

You don't go to an astrologer when you're happy.

Actually, I am happy.

Before you go, I want to make sure that you're brave enough,

because you go there to hear the true.

-Oh, my goodness!

-You go there to hear the true.

-OK.

So you make sure you are happy to go there.

Janu, could we go back?

Good luck.

Thank you. It's in there?

Ajay Shrivastava does readings for those seeking enlightenment

at the back of his jewellery shop.

Namaste.

I have an appointment with the guru. Is it all right to go in?

-Yes.

-Thank you. Namaste.

Namaste.

-Namaste.

-Namaste.

-Have a seat, please.

-Thank you.

PHONE PLAYS INDIAN MUSIC

MUSIC STOPS

-We have only five minutes, because I have yoga class.

-Oh, right!

-Give me your hand for a second.

-Which?

The guru doesn't charge anything for his services.

He believes he has a gift

which should be available to anyone who needs his help.

So, go ahead, what do you want to know?

-I have lived on my own a very long time.

-Mm-hm.

But relationship has always been a problem with you,

because you have a massive problem with expression and communication.

So, like, relationship and fall in love and then things fall apart,

so like with a man it's always been like this.

At least six men in your life, same thing is happening.

You're amazing.

-You're absolutely right.

-How many children you got?

One. A son.

-How old he is?

-34.

But basically, I think what you need to do, focus, concentration

and self-loving.

There's a creativity and things inside you,

but still you haven't found the peace of mind.

I haven't, and you're quite right about relationships.

But having been on my own for 12 years,

I've got used to it.

It was very difficult originally. I would love to be...

I would love to have a companion,

but my track record would put men off.

If...

God or whoever says no, I am OK on my own,

but I would me much happier...

You're saying you OK, but I disagree with you.

You're very lonely. And my suggestion for you,

you still need to be very careful with depression.

Whatever you are, howsoever you are, expression is very important.

Second thing, as you're getting older,

you need to be very careful with your short-term memory.

-With my short-term...

-Short-term memory.

-Oh!

-My mother...

-Symptom of dementia.

Yes, she did. Ah!

Because both my grandmothers died of cancer.

Bowel cancer.

Yes, they did.

INDIAN MUSIC PLAYS ON PHONE

-Thank you so much.

-You're welcome. Take good care.

-Thank you.

Hopefully see you soon.

Phew!

He's good.

He's good!

That man definitely has an energy. I could feel it coming into my hand.

He shocked me when he said "six relationships".

I mean, he doesn't know me from a bar of soap.

My life has been totally...

messed up with men.

How are you?

-He's amazing.

-Yes? OK.

I tell you what, even if I'd wanted to hide anything from him,

I couldn't.

-I mean, how could he know?

-I told you before you come.

-INDIAN WOMAN:

-Ah. That's for the long "ah" sound.

Back at the haveli,

some of the group are trying to learn some basic Hindi.

How would you say to somebody when you meet someone,

"What is your name?"

Jan has decided to join the group for the lesson.

Naam kya hai?

OK, so maybe you can have a little conversation between the two of you?

Oh, God!

-Yes, so...

-Oh!

-Erm, naam kya hai?

-Wait a minute. Wait a minute.

-Naam... What is "sleep" in, er...

-Sleep?

-Yeah, sleep.

-Sona.

-Mera naam Sona hai.

-I'm falling asleep. Sorry.

-CHUCKLES

I'm so tired!

I hope it's not the Hindi lesson

-that's working as a lullaby for you!

-It's concentrating when I'm tired.

I was just going to say, with our not-very-good accents,

will they understand us?

They will. They will, because the context in which you're talking,

they know what you are actually wanting them to say.

I've got to keep this active.

You know, it's absolutely true, if you don't use it, you lose it.

'And I will be making notes, because I don't remember.

'I had a very good memory when I was young.

'Not quite photographic, but very, very good.'

-WAYNE:

-How would you say, "Would you like to make a date?"

-TEACHER LAUGHS

-OK!

In India, you would not say that!

-I want to be your sort of chaperone.

-You're going to be my chaperone?!

-I want to get you a rich Indian.

-SHE SCOFFS

-ROSEMARY:

-Oh, that would be... She ought to have a... Yes, you.

-That would be perfect for her.

-I don't want a rich...!

I know this sounds awful but, I mean,

do people chat each other up, or is it unheard-of?

-Flirt.

-Do they flirt?

-Erm...

-Not really, no.

Actually, in Jaipur, we still have a lot

of what we call the respect in the eyes, you know?

So if you see somebody you like, it would all be in the face, Jan,

would it, sort of like looking at somebody like that?

-So you look at me and I go...

-ROSEMARY:

-That's beautiful.

And I go...

WAYNE LAUGHS

My life is quite fulfilling.

There's room in it for somebody,

but unfortunately - I'm not saying anything that most women

don't think - most men want a much younger woman.

And look at me and the age I am now.

-ATUL:

-Breathe in.

Very gentle dropping.

Dropping the head back.

It's 8am, and the group's morning routine has already started.

And that will reduce pressure on the heart by 33%.

Yoga's been practised for 5,000 years in India,

and it's part of the rhythm of life.

Again with the nose tip. One...

two...

If you do it daily, you will be cured of your short-sightedness

and long-sightedness. You won't need glasses.

OK, let's start it again, sir. Sir, you also need to take your...

But Rosemary's finding it tough.

Would you excuse me? Because I'm going to have to go.

I've got to go and do something. So, excuse me.

I need this as much as everybody!

-But I need to go and move on, so I'm sorry.

-Don't worry, don't worry.

'That has taught me the most enormous lesson.

'I am really unfit.'

Everything was hurting...

-SHE LAUGHS

-..which is embarrassing,

because it shouldn't have done, because they were so gentle.

'And sing...'

THEY CHANT

Seriously, I'm actually quite shocked how bad I am,

because I'm ten years younger than all these here.

And, um...

I mean, I think I've... You know.

I'm reason... I am fit. But I'm not.

I mean...

I don't stretch and I don't do any exercise, really.

I think this is just so...

In fact, I do none, no exercise at all.

CUTLERY CLINKS

She said that when she goes to...

I take a pill for my blood pressure,

because my mother had a stroke, she died from that.

That's what I take it for,

in order to avoid... try to avoid a stroke.

If you read in my obituary that I've died of a stroke, you'll say,

"Oh, poor sod, it didn't work!"

THEY ALL LAUGH

I do think it's morbid to think about the autumn of life

or even the winter.

I mean, here we are, I'm lucky to have survived this long.

I'm amazed the neighbours have let me.

I'm old

and I didn't expect to be.

I didn't expect to have to climb stairs one at a time.

Are you coming to the hospital, Bobby?

I've got to be there at one.

India has some of the best and cheapest medical care in the world.

Some of the group have existing health concerns,

so they've booked into a local hospital for a full medical checkup.

So, I'm not sure at the hospital

whether we are going to have to strip down

or have a blood test or any of that kind of stuff.

Well, not blood test.

I think pressure, high pressure, low pressure, heart...

Miriam was recently told that she needed an operation.

I've developed arthritis.

It means that I don't walk very well

and I'm going to have a knee replacement operation.

I'm not ready to slow down.

If I have to walk more slowly, then I will,

but I want to walk just as far.

And there are little scooters that you can go on,

they're ever such fun.

You can knock all kinds of people like that.

That's it, I've got my little stool.

India has become a Mecca for health tourism,

with around a quarter of a million people flying here each year

to take advantage of the cheap private medical treatment.

I would very much be interested in finding out

about what it would cost to have an operation in India

and who would do it and how good they are,

because I just want the best.

You know, this is my life.

I want to see... Check me heart,

-that's the most important thing to me.

-Yeah.

And me blood pressure

and how long I'm going to live.

We're looking for...

Well, not Labour and Delivery,

I think I'm past that one! Um...

Intensive... Health Check, there we go, straight ahead.

Straight ahead - Health Check.

India does have a public health system, but access to it is so poor,

going private is the only option for the middle classes.

-I feel so sweaty, it's embarrassing.

-I know, I know.

I hate being sweaty when people...

If they have to touch me.

I don't know whether they're going to touch me.

They may take one look at me and say, "Urgh!"

I hope he doesn't have to touch me, full stop.

164 in height.

I've shrunk.

The most comprehensive health check,

covering everything from blood tests to bone scans, costs just £130.

In the UK, the same tests done privately would cost over 1,600.

You stay there.

HE USES THE TOILET

My mother had strokes and that's what I'm trying to avoid, of course.

118 by 80. So it's absolutely normal.

The pills are working!

Could I ask how long it takes to get a knee operation?

It's five to seven days, that's it.

-Five to seven days?

-Yes.

Because I have to tell you that in England,

-it could be up to four months.

-No.

And that would cost... the knee replacement?

Around £3,000 for a single and 5,000 for both the knees.

So you get a discount if you get both knees done!

Back at home, a knee replacement done privately

would cost around £11,000.

Thank you very much.

I'm impressed by this hospital.

I would not be worried

if I got sick and that is a very important area for people of my age.

You worry about health care.

Well, I wouldn't worry being here.

At our age, this is the most important thing, is your body,

cos things start breaking down and falling to pieces.

So you've got a good hospital, it's relaxing, isn't it?

-That's what you're doing now?

-Yes.

Yes, I've had it done before.

And the thing down my throat as well, the liquid.

Bobby's very familiar with the inside of a hospital.

I wore me body out working, I suppose.

People think I just threw darts. I used to dig tunnels.

I used to lay granite floors.

Just overdone it, wore me body out.

You look so serious.

You're taking the blood out of me, I'm not taking it out of you!

I had metal knees, metal hip...

..I broke my back in the World Championship.

I jumped up and I come down wrong and I snapped me back.

After just five hours, the test results start to arrive.

-My general health good?

-Well, it's very good.

-Your heart more or less seems OK.

-OK.

-For my age?

-For your age.

-Was everything all right, Bobby?

-Yes, everything was perfect.

Brilliant. What about your heart?

Perfect, my heart is very strong.

-Oh, fantastic.

-Slow.

-Still slow?

-He said, am I an athlete?

-You are.

-I said, yes.

You are an athlete. An athlete who needs to lose weight, that's all.

-Oh, thank you, Doctor.

-Yes, yes.

Well, you could say the same to me.

I've got to lose a couple of stone,

because I'm quite heavy. I don't look heavy, but I'm quite heavy.

It's the drink. It's the beer.

You put the weight on with the beer.

If I'm playing darts, I drink a fair amount, probably six,

seven pints, eight pints a night.

Miriam has received her results

and they are not quite what she was expecting.

The doctor I saw was an orthopaedic surgeon and he confirmed,

looking at the X-rays of my knees,

that I do need a knee replacement...

..probably on both knees,

which I didn't know,

but certainly on my right knee, which I did know.

And he also said that I've got lots of little gallstones...

..so I'm facing a minimum of two operations in the next year.

Which is quite a heavy thing at my age.

So I had better start taking care of myself.

As far as I'm concerned,

health is the only thing that is important in life.

If you've got your health, you can do anything.

-I'm looking for Mrs Rosemary.

-Rosemary? The doctor's calling you.

Rosemary is the last to be seen.

Oh, hello.

An obesity specialist has arrived to give her the results.

So when we talk about the ideal weight which anybody should have...

-Yes.

-The basic thumb rule is that

height in centimetres minus 100

and your BOA is coming out to 49.4.

-Yes, OK.

-So that comes into morbid obesity.

My job is to tell how important it is for you to lose weight.

-Number one.

-Yes, I know.

Drugs are secondary things.

-The primary thing is the lifestyle management.

-Yes.

Nobody likes to be told they are morbidly obese.

It's being spelled out to me...

..which has never been done before in such a way...

I can tell you a few tricks...

..and it is a shock and it does...

It...

It doesn't... It does frighten me, obviously,

because I need to do something about it and obviously I don't want to.

I find it very upsetting and if I think about it too long,

I will get very upset.

So I think I've got to do what I normally do in my life,

is be strong and do something about it.

We got back from the hospital terribly late,

because we've really been investigated from...

-BLEEP

-to hair follicle, you know.

-I felt really nervous a couple of times.

-Did you?

In case it turned out to be you were at death's door?

Well, we are at that age.

We're at death's back passage!

THEY LAUGH

It's close. I mean, you can't help thinking about it.

I think about it a lot.

Hello, pig.

Hello. Hello.

I'll have him for my dinner.

SHE LAUGHS

I think he's frightened of me, ha-ha!

As part of her new health regime,

Rosemary is already up and out for a walk.

I've thought about it during the evening and I decided, well,

I might as well start straightaway.

I have tried every single diet in the world, virtually.

Well, not quite, but I've done a lot of things.

Once I fail, I give up

and I'm lazy.

It's actually so straightforward,

but it's just having the strength to get through it.

As well as state-of-the-art medicine,

Indians also rely heavily on ancient Ayurvedic practices.

During her time in Jaipur, Rosemary has become a convert.

I've got real issues.

My back is an ongoing thing

and it is important that I find somewhere

where I can maybe get my back sorted out

when it does happen.

One is to sort the weight out, as well,

because that doesn't help my back.

They're using a reservoir made from flour and water

filled with hot herbal oil to ease Rosemary's back pain.

It is weird but, I mean, I have never seen this in Britain.

I tell you, if I was to come and retire here,

this would certainly be part of my regime.

Since she arrived in India, Jan has suffered from headaches

and, on Rosemary's advice, has also booked some alternative therapy.

Hello.

-Oh, hello!

-How are you?

You didn't see me!

-I can't have those. I have low blood pressure so they're not allowed.

-OK.

Rosemary has moved on to a steam box treatment.

The people are lovely, aren't they?

They're so warm and affectionate.

Gentle...

I think you should find a nice Indian, educated man.

Rosemary!

I've had enough of men.

-Have you?

-Mm.

You are such a glamorous person.

Oh, rubbish.

-But you are, Jan!

-I'm not!

Accept what I'm saying, you are.

I've lived on my own for 12 years, I've got used to it.

Yes, I am lonely at times. I would have loved to have had a big family.

I always most enjoyed at Christmas when I had up to 12 people.

And now, Christmas, well, it's just another day.

Well, I mustn't let you have that if that's the case.

Don't you dare be on your own at Christmas.

On a sunny weekend, when I can look out of my window

and I see the families walking along by the beach

and I see couples hand-in-hand,

and I think, "Oh, I haven't even got anyone

"I can go out for a drink with."

If somebody came into my life who was right,

that would be absolutely wonderful.

But I don't think I could live 24/7 with anybody any more.

Spend weekends together. Go on holiday.

You see, I don't go on holiday

because I have no-one to go on holiday with.

But as someone once said to me,

"Better first-class loneliness than second-class company."

I think companionship is very, very important.

-Are you on your own, Rosemary?

-Yes, I am.

I've lived on my own for 20 years, but I've been separated.

I'm still married, I still have a lovely husband,

but we don't live together.

-Well, that's weird.

-No, it's not weird at all.

Circumstances would have been very difficult for him

to have been with me that moment when we lost everything.

-So I had to just get on.

-You lost everything?

-I had to get on.

-What was that?

It was the recession.

-Oh.

-We lost in the properties.

We had properties, we had all sorts of things.

Cos he needs somebody to help him and things.

So, for me, it's easier anyway for us to be the way we be.

-Do you see your husband?

-Oh, yes. I do.

-Oh, right.

So you don't need anyone?

Well, the thing is, Jan, I work...

-I work all the time.

-You're a workaholic.

I work at weekends, I work every weekend you can imagine.

Actually doing something, it stops one thinking about oneself, really.

There has been lonely along the way.

There are times

when I've had something, a bad day,

and you'd love to just talk to someone about it

and there's no-one to talk to.

And that is difficult.

Out of bed. I need lipstick.

I need lipstick.

Tonight, the group are hoping

to make some new local friends on a night out.

I think all of us are going to the Palladio Club,

which I think is a club for expats.

We've been here about a week and we're all excited

and we like what we've seen,

or I'm excited and I like what I've seen.

But I need to get the truth, really.

It's going to be very, very interesting.

I'd like to take a notepad with me, which might look a bit...

I can't remember things any more.

What about this? Too much?

Well, it depends how warm you're going to be.

Well, no, but does it look too much with all this white?

-Or shall I put my dark blue...?

-It breaks the white up.

Or shall I wear my black trousers with the black waistcoat?

Bar Palladio is a popular meeting spot for Western expats.

Many of the clientele have lived in Jaipur for years.

Wow! Look at this place.

-Hi, I'm Ophelia.

-Ophelia.

And you're from here, or...?

-Originally from France.

-Oh, wonderful!

-That's why I have this terrible accent.

-Bonsoir, bonsoir.

-This is Roy.

-Hi, Roy.

Bonsoir, madame.

-Bonsoir.

-You've got very strong hands.

-So what do you do here?

-I'm a jewellery designer.

-Yes!

-Have you met Patti Boulaye?

-Hello.

-Are you partners?

-No, no.

-One has to ask these days.

-Yes, yes.

See, this is the part I need to find before I go home.

Because I've got... I'm gay.

I've got to bring my partner back.

I've been talking to friends about the homosexuality in India

and they say be careful.

Homosexuality in India was made legal in 2009,

but the High Court overturned the decision

and made it illegal once again a few years later.

-I'm Wayne.

-Will.

-Wayne and Will.

-Do you know Wayne? Possibly?

-No!

-Wayne is a very, very...

-Oh, stop it!

-Oh, shut up!

..a very, very famous ballet dancer.

And the smallest you've ever met.

I'm interested to see if and how a gay community works,

if a gay community is there, first of all.

She certainly did.

What can I do? I am gay.

I don't think it's unnoticeable, because I have a little frill.

I do drop my wrists occasionally.

-Do you like it really hot?

-Yeah, yeah.

-So do I!

-I love...

Oh, are we talking about the food?!

Wayne has met events organiser Will,

who has lived in India for four years

and is openly gay amongst his friends.

If I thought of moving here with my husband,

what kind of animosity would I expect

if two men were living in one house?

There is really very little homophobia. Um...

So it's like a safe place,

-but it just is like a taboo subject.

-It's a what?

A taboo subject.

-Oh, taboo.

-So you just don't really talk about it that often.

You have to learn in which situations you can be gay,

in which situations you are just quiet about it,

in which situations you feel comfortable.

-It still is collectively...

-It's still in the closet.

When something is really nice, we say "lovely jubbly".

-Jubb-a-lee.

-Lovely jubbly. We say that.

-Lovely jubbly.

-That's it, OK.

I think it could be great.

It would be much nicer to retire here than somewhere like Eastbourne.

Jan has the chance to find out from fellow Brit Emma

about what life is like for single women in Jaipur.

I've been living out here on my own for the last five years.

That's why I asked. Is it...? It's possible?

Yes, of course, absolutely.

I have my own apartment within the family house,

so it's quite nice, because I have my own space. It's completely...

I would need that.

But then I open the door and the family is there, kind of thing.

And that would suit me, because I've lived on my own for so long now.

I love people, but I want my own space.

That would be wonderful.

They take you into their heart, they completely take you in

and they'd do anything for you - anything.

In England, I live on my own and, frankly, if I died,

it would be several days before anybody will know.

Here, I mean, people would know here and they'd really look out for you.

Hearing about the support available for single women

has opened Jan's eyes to new possibilities.

I come from a very small family

and now there's only my son in Sydney,

so maybe I'll just have to adopt and adapt

to an Indian family, if they'll take me in.

It makes me feel I want to come.

It's 7:30am at Jaipur Junction Railway Station.

Although the group have travelled all over the city,

today is their chance to test out long-distance travel.

They are heading off to see the jewel in India's crown.

I think we have to go over here.

India has got thousands and thousands of years of culture.

They were more advanced than we were

and that would be a very exciting thing to go and see.

The group are making the 150-mile journey east

to the state of Uttar Pradesh

to see one of the wonders of the world -

the Taj Mahal.

I don't quite get this.

Erm...

-15. We want the nine o'clock.

-The nine o'clock.

Making the four-hour journey by train

are Rosemary, Wayne, Miriam, Sylvester and Bobby.

I'm bloody sure it's platform one!

It's either one or two.

-One or the other.

-Come on. Let's go to platform one.

-MIRIAM:

-I'd love to go on trains and buses.

I don't like...

air-conditioned, chauffeured limousines.

That's not what I'm used to and I don't want that.

The station deals with 35,000 passengers a day

and is the busiest in Rajasthan.

I won't go on top of the train.

No, I think they're dodgy. It's a bit dodgy.

But I would like to go on the train and see what it's like.

To see how the people travel.

-Excuse me? Do you speak English?

-Sorry?

-Do you speak English?

-No.

-OK.

With trains passing through the station

heading to 50 different destinations every hour,

they need to make sure they get on the right one.

Is this going to Agra?

-Agra?

-Is this going to Agra?

-Agra?

-No.

-No?

-No?

-No. Delhi. Delhi.

-Delhi, not Agra?

-Not Agra?

-No Agra. Agra, nahi.

-OK, thank you.

-The train.

-The train.

-We're going to Agra.

-Agra.

-Yes.

Train will have the apartment instructions.

-Will you show us? Come with us.

-Yes.

Come with us. Come and show us the way.

That's brilliant. Where's Miriam?

I don't want to lose Miriam.

I'm just waiting for you.

Everybody, I've got a guide!

-Is this our train?

-No.

-Oh, no, no, no! This is not it!

-No.

-Not it.

-After this.

-OK.

-Our train is after this.

-The next one?

Blimey! This is exhausting.

Maybe we should have gone by car.

Well, we're on our way!

Hooray!

-Only an hour late.

-Only an hour late.

THEY LAUGH

Roy, Jan and Patti have chosen the five-hour road trip to the Taj.

HORNS BEEP

-PATTI:

-I want a car with a driver.

I'm not going on buses.

I have experienced that in Lagos

and I'm not about to do that in India.

Not at my age.

They're being driven by haveli driver, Janu.

-ALL:

-# Ooh, there's only one Janu... #

Their 300-mile round trip by car

is costing around £100 between them.

You all right, son?

While for the others, the total cost of five return tickets is £60.

I've never been...

-surrounded by so many admiring men for a very long time.

-I know.

I'd have worn a tighter bra if I'd known.

ROSEMARY LAUGHS

HE SIGHS

Thanks.

-MAN SPEAKS HIS OWN LANGUAGE

-All right?

-Yep.

-Right, so bottle of beer...

-Bottle of beer...

I might have a little kip in the train. Are you going to have a kip?

I don't think I can avoid it. I'm so tired.

-Cos I was up all night

-BLEEP,

-you know.

TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS

Yes! This must be it.

TRAIN WHISTLE TOOTS

The train is packed,

so the pensioners have had to book into different carriages.

64 to 1.

That sounds like a bet.

The gentlemen are in third class...

-Yes, this is the one.

-But that's second class.

..the ladies, in second class.

-Yes, this is the one. It's got the number here.

-Oh.

We have to go further down.

No, we need B. We're further up. This is BE1.

We're B1.

-Thank you.

-Thank you so much.

-Thank you so much.

-Thank you.

-B1, here's B1! This one.

-B1?

You can just about see it written up there. I mean, it's not very clear.

-We need 11 and 12.

-Which...? A1?

-A1.

-Yeah, this is...

The group will be on the train for four hours.

What does that say? Yeah?

3, 2, 1. You're 5.

Excuse me? What number are you? 1. 1.

OK. Thank you.

Safely on the train,

they now need to get to grips with the seating arrangements.

If he wants to lie down

-then we have to go up?

-Up.

-And then I have to go up?

-Yes.

OK. Well, that's all right. So, you know...

Well, I'm small enough to crawl to the top, I suppose.

-Is this...? Is this 11?

-Yeah, yeah.

That's 11? Ah! So I have to get up?

-You sit here!

-How do I get up there?

-You want to show me?

-Yeah.

Like this.

It's very simple.

Put that...

-Yeah.

-Yep.

Hold that.

SHE GRUNTS

-Ooh!

-LAUGHTER

-I think maybe...

-No!

LAUGHTER

It's very testing and rather exhausting, actually.

I feel a bit whacked.

-Goodnight.

-Goodnight.

-Sweet dreams.

-Sweet dreams.

Ah, this is the life!

-Wahey!

-No, you've got to go headfirst.

-Yes, put my head in first.

-Got to go headfirst.

I don't know where to put my foot.

HE SIGHS

That's it.

HE GRUNTS

That's it. Crawl on them like you're a...

-A commando?

-Yeah, the SAS, son.

-Yes.

HE PANTS

I couldn't do it, see? I could never do that.

HE GRUNTS

Oh, look!

-There you go.

-Ah!

An hour into their journey, Rosemary and Miriam have worked out that,

in second class, they CAN turn their bed into seats.

Wouldn't it be good to have a good cup of tea?

What I really would like is a flush toilet.

ROSEMARY LAUGHS

And I don't think I'm going to get that for quite a while.

No. Have you got your...? Have you got your...loo roll with you?

Oh, I never travel without it.

ROSEMARY LAUGHS

I think it's one of the things you learn as you get older.

-Yeah, I've got...

-Take loo roll.

-Always be prepared.

Well, you've either got to be prepared

or have a very tough sphincter.

And I don't know that I have.

Patti, Jan and Roy are two hours into their five-hour journey

to the Taj Mahal.

..While its creator, Emperor Shah Jahan, said,

"It made the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes".

My wish list, of course, would be to see the Taj Mahal.

The Taj was built by Emperor Shah Jahan

to lay his favourite wife to rest.

The magnificent tomb is a symbol of his love for her.

-JAN:

-I'm very sentimental and romantic

and it's just wonderful now to have this opportunity,

because when you live on your own, I mean...

I'm not a scaredy-cat, I'll go and do things,

but I certainly wouldn't go to India on my own,

so this is a whole new culture, and, at my age, I'm...

you know, grabbing each day.

SYLVESTER HUMS

With an hour left until they reach Agra,

Sylvester is searching for second class and the rest of his group.

I don't know where they are.

SINGING

Oh, they're singing.

Hello.

Oh, they're singing in here.

THEY SING IN THEIR OWN LANGUAGE

Rosemary and Wayne are busy making friends

with their fellow travellers.

The car is still 85 miles from the monument to love.

-I've had my heart broken by a girl at school.

-Really?

Right. I've no idea why I fell for her,

because I hardly even spoke to her.

We used to go to a little sweet shop,

but sometimes they had a lucky bag

and there was a ring in this one, you know.

-Ooh!

-Oh!

-And, er...

I was passing her in the corridor and I slipped it into her hand.

And she went...

-Oh, no!

-Oh, Roy!

I didn't go back to school.

-Oh!

-LAUGHTER

Have you...? Have you ever had your heart broken?

Me?

-No.

-SHE LAUGHS

Lucky you.

This is the best thing! Oh, my God.

-What is it?

-Here? Yeah.

WOMAN SPEAKS IN HER OWN LANGUAGE

The local ladies are on a religious pilgrimage

and are decorating their hands with henna.

-What does it mean?

-What does it mean?

Close...relationship with the man?

Yes, I see. With the husband. Very good.

-What's your hands saying?

-Michael.

-Michael?

-Michael.

-Michael.

-We're separated. How can I tell her?

-Oh, you're separated?

-Yes, we're separated.

-Erm...

-Excuse me. No, no, no.

-No.

-They are separate?

-No. Rosemary here. Separate.

I still have a memory.

I still have memories. Yes, yes.

-Oh, well!

-Go on, then. Go on. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

So you still have good memories?

What they were saying was,

if you put the man's name on your hand, it makes you closer.

You take it into your heart.

We had a lot of very good times.

And we still have good times, but it's slightly different.

But still... But still have him remember the good times,

which I've got.

How long were you married for?

I was married for 26 years.

We had our 25th anniversary.

We did the whole of Paris in a weekend, you know.

Oh, it was wonderful.

-Unfortunately, 12 months later, she passed.

-Oh, no.

But at least you did that.

-Yeah, yeah.

-Ahh!

-You wish you'd done more.

Unable to hold on for the whole of the long journey,

Miriam has had to brave the onboard facilities.

There was a flush toilet and it flushed and it was a toilet.

-EAST EUROPEAN ACCENT:

-Was it like a toilet that I know?

-LAUGHTER

-Never in my life

did I see a toilet like that. That was...

You know, that was quite a special toilet.

-LAUGHTER

-But it was a toilet, so...

LAUGHTER

-NORMAL VOICE:

-I was grateful for it.

Bang on schedule, the train pulls into Agra Fort Station.

-I think we should get off.

-Ready.

There's a step here.

You got it.

Well, let's go and find the others.

The train journey was all right. It was...

99% of it, I went to sleep.

So, yeah, I would use the trains, cos you just go to bed.

Thank you. It's been a lovely, lovely, lovely...

Thank you so much.

It was wonderful! Wonderful.

That train journey, I have to say,

one of the best train journeys I've ever had in my whole life, ever.

If I was to retire here,

it would be a wonderful way to go, and what fun. I mean, what fun!

-Rosemary, why don't you come with me?

-OK.

-Are you all right with them?

I'll go with...

-Sylvester.

-Sylvester.

-OK.

And the Fuhrer.

-BOTH:

-And the Fuhrer.

-LAUGHTER

The station is two miles away from the Taj Mahal.

HORN BEEPS

Whey! It's like dodgems.

Great fun.

Five.

-ALL:

-Five on a bike.

-I think that's the world record so far.

-Yeah, five on a bike.

-Ah, a brass band!

-That's amazing!

BRASS BAND PLAYS

Ah, fabulous!

Oh, my goodness. Look at that!

-Look, look, look.

-This is the East Gate.

-Look!

Oh, it's there!

Taj Mahal, East Gate.

-South Gate, straight on.

-South Gate, straight on.

It is very hot.

Today, in Agra, it's 38 degrees,

and much more humid than Jaipur.

Are you OK? Do you think you'll make it, or...?

I don't know.

I'll have to.

This is hot.

I'm not so good in the heat.

SHE SIGHS HEAVILY

Here we go. Steps.

-BOTH:

-Do you want some help?

-No.

-Are you all right, Miriam?

-I'm all right, as long as I hold on to the...

-Hold on.

..to the burning poles.

-LAUGHTER

-Dear God.

-They're high steps.

-Wow. That's only the gate!

-I know.

LAUGHTER

Every year, three million people visit the Taj Mahal,

widely regarded as the world's greatest monument to love.

I just have to keep going,

because otherwise I stop.

I want to see it!

Look at that!

Isn't that amazing?

How beautiful.

-It's a monument of love.

-Look at it.

ROSEMARY GASPS

-It looks like it, doesn't it?

-It feels it.

-Yeah.

You believe it's a work of love.

It's unbelievable. It's mind-blowing.

I'm going to have a selfie.

CAMERA CLICKS

You come to a place like this

and it does make you think about your own life.

I had a most wonderful husband,

two wonderful children, and I had this...

this wonderful life, and I've lost a lot of that. I've lost...

I lost a lot of the love, and I...

I really am a person who would love to be loved.

I mean, really loved and felt, you know, special.

And I think that's one thing we all want -

we all want to be loved.

Jose!

Is the sound on?

Can you see me?

Guess where I am.

Look!

-It's my anniversary tomorrow.

-Oh, is it?

-Wedding anniversary.

-Oh!

I thought, that's it, I'm taking a picture and I'm going to send it

to my husband. This is what I want.

LAUGHTER, ALL CHATTER

My wife would have loved to have been here.

Very few know what love is.

Do you?

You bet.

Do you miss me?

I love you.

It's such a beautiful place.

I would love to have been here with someone I love.

It's also been emotional for me,

because although he left me 20 years ago,

the love of my life...

..was cremated yesterday.

And I went up there

and I wished I'd believed in heaven.

And I don't any more.

So it has been emotional.

Obviously, I would have liked to have been with my partner

sharing this beautiful experience.

To come here...

Wow.

I don't have words...

for that.

It speaks for itself.

-Madness.

-HORN BEEPS

Next time, the group visit the holiest Hindu city...

Oh! Hit by a bull.

Anybody who goes to India and isn't interested in Indian religions

is a muffin!

..get down with Jaipur's party scene...

This has been one of the most fabulous evenings

I've had in a decade!

..and have a right laugh. LAUGHTER

If I went over my park doing that,

-they'd think I'm a nutcase.

-LAUGHTER