Cuba The Real Marigold on Tour

This programme contains some strong language.

Do you think there'll be people naked in there?

I don't know what to expect at all.

-It's there.

-Wait a minute!

Those are all blokes, old ones.

LAUGHTER

Where in the world would you choose

to spend your golden years?

There's a big wide world out there that's ready,

that can teach us an awful lot.

Do you speak English? No.

I think it's a huge adventure to find out more.

-Cheers.

-Salud!

-Salud!

-Salud.

A group of famous pensioners are on a global quest...

ALL SHOUT

..travelling the world,

exploring how different countries deal with growing old.

I've gone MAD!

Bring it on, I can't wait for it.

Having sampled a super-sized

retirement in China...

This is a nightmare!

..Miriam Margolyes...

-How are you?

-Was wondering where you were!

Wayne Sleep, and Bobby George...

-Hello.

-Oh, hello!

..are reuniting with well-known Marigold face, Jan Leeming.

-ALL: Hello!

-How are you?

It's lovely to have somebody new again, that you sort of knew, but

didn't get to know a lot.

And this time, they're trying out the Communist approach...

-Got your passport?

-Yeah, here.

..in Cuba.

I'm going to do as much as I can while I can,

because once you're pushing up the daisies,

there's no chance to do anything!

Cuba - an island nation on the cusp of change.

Famous for its vibrant culture,

Communist revolution and vintage cars.

And with a life expectancy of 79,

one of the highest in Latin America,

could this be a place to spend your golden years?

Do you think it's going to be very hot when we leave this...

-I'm hot already, I'm sweating.

-Yeah.

I feel like I'm melting.

Oh, my goodness.

The group have landed in Cuba's capital city, Havana.

From the airport, it's a half-hour journey to one of the coastal

districts on the northern edge of the city.

-Welcome to Cuba.

-Yeah, thank you!

Thank you. Can you take that?

-Of course.

-That's my first thing done!

You're in, you're in, doll!

You wait for me over there, I pick up the car.

-OK. "Picking up the car".

-OK?

-Very good English.

-OK!

Yeah, better than my Spanish.

I have been living with a Spanish

gentleman for 23 years.

And I don't speak a word of Spanish.

MAN SPEAKS SPANISH

WAYNE REPEATS

I know "Hola", for instance.

And "como estas?" How are you?

And that's about it.

-It's hot.

-You can feel the warmth here now, can't you?

I have to be careful not to get thrush.

-Really?!

-Yeah, under your arms and in your groin.

You've GOT to make sure that all the crevices are dry.

-Yes.

-I know that Jan, she is a lady, and I'm an old tart.

So I will have to be careful about my language.

It does piss her off a bit.

Are we going in one of these?

Is a 1949 Chevy.

-1949?

-Fantastic!

Oh, this is incredible. It just reminds me of all those

Elvis Presley movies I used to see in the '50s and '60s.

I love the car!

It's a little bit high.

-It is

-BLEEP

-high!

I'm in.

HE LAUGHS

Oh, dear.

OK, here we go!

How old's this, 1949?

1949, sir.

So that's 67, 68 years old.

-That's incredible.

-Old-fashioned, see.

-Built to last.

-Like you, Bob.

I was just going to say you, as it happens.

Look at them. Look at the colours!

It's like a rainbow!

-VOICEOVER:

-Would I even THINK of retiring to Cuba?

Put it this way, if I had...a partner...

..I'd go anywhere in the world.

Who's that guy?

Right in front of us is Che Guevara.

After the revolution nearly 60 years ago,

Cuba relied heavily on Soviet support until

the USSR's collapse in 1991.

In the economic crisis that followed,

Cuba started to open its doors to tourism.

You said you've been to Cuba before.

-Yeah.

-Was that with the ballet?

Yes, they have an international ballet festival.

-VOICEOVER:

-I've been to Havana three times before.

It's palatial.

I mean, all these palaces that the Spanish built in 1900 are all

corroding and falling down as if it's under the sea.

Some people, when they first come here, they don't like it at all

cos they think it's too...

..too poverty stricken.

But I just think it's romantic.

This is history.

-And you can't get away from your history.

-No.

For the duration of their time in the city,

the group will be staying in the neighbourhood of Vedado

with two local families.

Oh, it's here.

Miriam and Bobby are moving into a house owned by married couple,

Horacio and Marta.

-Si!

-Hola!

Siamo arrivati!

-Hi, hello, how are you?

-Hello.

-I'm Miriam.

-Horacio.

Even when I don't look, I am your host.

-How nice.

-I'm Bobby.

-You look my host.

-Bobby, how are you?

-You look a perfect host!

Welcome to Casa Antigua in Havana.

-Thank you very much.

-Let me help you with your luggage.

-Hello.

-Hi.

Yo no habla inglese, pero puedo entender.

She doesn't speak English, but...

-No. Parlo italiano.

-Hello, darling.

Oh, well if you speak some Italian, then maybe it's OK.

-Bobby. Bobby.

-Bienvenido a la casa.

Jan and Wayne are staying just around

the corner with their retired hosts,

Antonio and Diana.

-Hola!

-Hola!

-Como estas?

-Hello, nice to meet you.

-Mi nombre, Wayne.

-Wayne.

-My name is Tony.

-Tony...

-And Diana.

-Diana.

Como estas, come stai?

-Ah, muy bien, muy bien.

-Good. Good, good, good.

-Un poquito espanol, hablar.

-OK!

-Espanol.

-Come.

-It's really beautiful.

Rooms, this way. Here is one of the rooms.

Miriam, what side are you going to lay on?

-What side do you want?

-Look, they've put daffodils, little flowers.

-Do you want that side or I have that side?

-You choose the side!

And I teach classical ballet

and jazz and tap.

And Jan was famous.

She read the news on television.

Can I tell my own story, please?

Well, get on... Well, you will anyway!

I can't get a bloody word in edgeways.

-VOICEOVER:

-Jan is a very sensitive woman.

She'll defend her ground because she thinks she's being attacked, and

she's not. So you have to have kid

gloves on with Jan, sometimes.

-Are you all right?

-Yes, sit down and rock yourself to sleep.

Lovely.

-Ooh!

-Got the fans on for us.

I'm always a bit nervous of rocking chairs.

Oh, they're lovely.

Lovely, eh?

Beautiful place.

MARTA SPEAKS SPANISH

I think you are using her

rocking chair. It's better you go to other side...

-No, because I've got the fan!

-You have fan, eh.

-No, I want this one!

-There is fan for everybody.

I want this one!

No, I like it here.

What I like, I like.

I like this.

MARTA SPEAKS SPANISH

Move that one there, and then...

You see how bossy I am.

Because...

MIRIAM LAUGHS

Thank you. I just love this.

Do you know, when there's a bit of a breeze, this is most acceptable,

-isn't it?

-Yeah, it's very nice.

Hello, we're up here.

Oh, hello! Hello. Hello.

-Come on up.

-Hi! Hi, hi.

To mark the group's arrival in the neighbourhood,

Jan and Wayne have been invited over

to Horacio and Marta's for their

first taste of Cuban home cooking.

-Looks gorgeous.

-Ah, that is a royal cake.

That is fries and a layer of chicken.

-Chicken, ah!

-And over, mayonnaise.

Wow.

-Can we begin?

-Of course.

ALL: Salud!

WAYNE AND ANTONIO SPEAK SPANISH

It's good?

-Lovely.

-Te gusta?

-Mmm.

-Lovely.

What do you do?

I mean, there's a great deal of art around this place.

We are both a product of the system and the revolution.

Everything was very easy, and we tried many things.

Isolated?

-Isolation.

-Insulated.

-So the revolution, in the

beginning, was a very good thing for you?

Yes, of course.

I want to ask about the internet,

because I know that this is not the

same in Cuba as it is in other countries.

-A car?

-Card.

-OK.

-VOICEOVER:

-The internet, I came to, I suppose, late in life.

And it is incredibly important.

I don't have time for porn and Instagram,

but not to be able to get e-mails and send e-mails,

and connect with my wider circle of friends,

is going to be very difficult.

And those are the cards for access.

You must scratch...

-Scratch...

-..this, and you...

-Reveal the number.

-You can read.

-Right, catch you later, then, son.

-Well, have a luck.

-Thank you, thank you.

-See you later.

And enjoy your access.

Thank you very much indeed.

Subject to state censorship,

the internet in Cuba is amongst the

most tightly controlled in the world.

With the majority of home connections banned,

most residents must make a trip to their local Wi-Fi zone.

Oh, I thought it was going to be a shop you went to.

-It's in the middle of a park, then?

-No, it really is in a park.

So you can pick the internet up in this area, then?

Apparently. We'll sit here.

Thank you.

Siamo inglese, qui.

-We are English.

-Yeah?

-OK.

-From London.

Oh, OK, nice to meet you.

Nice to meet you.

With the state pension as low as 11 a month,

and Wi-Fi access costing around 1.50 an hour,

surfing the net doesn't come cheap.

You've got to scratch that off, or something.

That's the number, isn't it?

-That's the number.

-Yeah, wait a minute.

That's my password, and then I go to...

Miriam, what's your password?

I'm not telling you!

BOBBY LAUGHS

"Hello." It should be "hello"!

Ah, dear.

Oh, they stop! Do they?

JAN LAUGHS

Wayne and Jan have decided to venture into Havana's city centre to

do some shopping.

Ooh! Mind the rubble, darling.

Cuba has two currencies.

Exchange rate.

I don't know what this means.

While most locals use Cuban pesos,

foreigners generally use the international currency

known as "kooks".

-Yay!

-It worked.

-The last time I was here, that was still being done up.

-Yeah.

It was filthy dirty.

Look what they've done with it since.

It's incredible.

I expected Havana to be like this.

I didn't expect so much decrepit-ness.

But then of course, I mean, they had almost 60 years in the wilderness,

you know. I mean, you know, the curtain came down, and that was that.

Look how narrow that shop is!

-They've made a shop out of a staircase.

-Mmm!

Very industrious,

turning your staircase into a shop.

Very good. What is this hat? This one?

Can I try? It's quite nice.

-Let's have a look. Suits you.

-Yeah?

-Yes.

-La cuenta?

-20.

-20. Ooh, it's too much.

-Yeah.

-No, everybody 20.

-Everybody? You sure?

20 kooks is the equivalent of nearly £15.

Thank you. Thank you.

Thank you very much.

You know, in England, it's much easier to do internet.

How, for you, a young person...

-Um...

-Come fa?

-Ah! Er...

We don't need this.

-Really? You don't need it?

-No.

I think it makes them more intelligent, not to have internet.

I think we're all a load of wankers on it, frankly.

It's much better if you talk to people, and look at people,

and don't have your head buried in a screen all the time.

She'll do all this, and she won't get no e-mails.

I think it's a good thing if it don't control your life.

But it's not just the internet, it's the actual phone itself.

You go on the train, no-one says good morning to you, cos

they're all on their phones.

We've got to have it, but I think it's a bit over the top sometimes.

I've got 119 e-mails!

You said I didn't have any.

-Yeah, they only done that for a laugh. It's probably the same one, sent 119 times!

-Oh, shut up!

112, I've got.

Oh, 112, not so many now then.

-You're a tease!

-Oh, dear.

I like to be on the internet for hours at a time.

So if I were living here for a long

time, I would have to have internet,

and I think I would have to wait until it became more easily available.

Ridiculous.

I mean, I can't look through 112...

Yeah, but, like you said, a lot of them are rubbish ones.

-A lot of them are rubbish.

-Yeah.

I'm not going to do a survey on incontinence.

-Little bit of a dance, darling.

-Little bit of a dance?

My mother said, "If you've got a good lead, then you can dance,

-"if you have a sense of rhythm".

-Hello there.

-Hi!

It's the group's first evening in Havana.

-Hola!

-Hola!

Here we are.

Keen to sample the local night life, they're meeting up

before heading out for a night on the tiles.

What were your, what was yours like?

We had a good time, we went to the park.

And we did our internet.

It's noticeable that nobody's obsessed with it.

And this is good for me, because I can't do it, so forget about it.

And I just get on with life.

I think it's time to go, because it's getting late.

-Oh, OK. Come on.

-Will you play the piano for us at some stage?

-Come on, on we go, andiamo.

-Come on.

And don't tell me my knickers show, Jan, because I know they do.

Tonight, Horatio and Marta are taking the group to one of Havana's

premier nightspots.

Just five minutes from their home-stay,

it's a destination for pensioners all over the city.

-She's ready.

-I'm ready, look.

-She's ready.

-I'm ready.

Every week, for 1.50,

hundreds of Cubans over the age of 60 pack the dance floor.

Horatio and Marta are like a double act.

They have it in their bodies, this natural rhythm they have here.

Two sparkling water.

Pablo!

Sparkling water, two bottles.

Glass, glass. You want a glass?

Just for me, the music is too loud.

But it was very infectious.

It's good to shake your bits about.

SHE LAUGHS

I like Cuba.

-I like Cuba, don't you?

-Yes.

I'm surprised by it.

I'm not very good.

You see, I'm a strange individual in some ways.

Although I like my quietness,

I like my own company, I'd love to still be in a relationship -

I was all my adult life.

And yet, I'm very independent.

What?

I'm very flattered, but not today.

Maybe.

-OK.

-OK?

-OK.

-Yeah?

It's been a fabulous evening, and it's nice to think that, even at my

age, guys are happy to dance with me.

Woo!

THEY LAUGH

This was your first time in Havana, yes?

Yes.

-Tell me your impressions.

-Fantastic!

-Cup of tea?

-Got the tea, yeah, here we go, look.

-Agua.

-Agua.

-No, basta.

It's 8am, and the temperature in Havana is already 30 degrees.

It's boiling, and I'm going to sweat in my groin!

-Good morning.

-Good morning!

-Good morning.

-How are you?

THEY LAUGH

-It is a...

-Good morning.

-Ah!

-Started already?

Tell me about last night.

-Your impressions.

-Last night was very interesting.

-Was it?

-Yes!

-I loved it, last night, all the dancing.

-Yeah, good fun.

-I had a date, or could have had.

-You didn't?

A gentleman came up and asked me to dance.

He was very kind, and guided me through the dancing.

Then said, "You come to another dance place."

-Ah!

-And I said, "Thank you very much, but no."

And he was so persistent.

-He just wanted a fuck, love.

-Yeah!

Oh, stop being so vulgar, Miriam.

No way was I going to go somewhere in Cuba with a man I didn't know!

-You must be joking!

-Ooh, I would!

ALL LAUGH

I have another two.

Right, OK.

But I have this other.

You've done me like a kipper.

With the city heat rising,

Miriam, Jan and Wayne have decided to cool off with a morning dip.

I expect it to be a bit like a warm bath.

-Yeah, hopefully.

-Yes, I hope it will be.

-Well, I don't think it...

-Don't think it'll be that hot.

..can't be as cold as it is in the UK.

Close to their neighbourhood, they've heard about a spot

where pensioners socialise and swim,

in the refreshing waters of the Gulf of Mexico.

-Hola!

-Hola!

-Hola!

-So, do you come here every day to swim?

-Yes, every day.

-And it's a good way of saying, "Hello, how are you?"?

Discuss your problems?

-Yes, yeah.

-So you're never alone.

-No.

-No.

I think loneliness, for elderly people, is worse than anything.

-Of course.

-And you keep healthy.

-Yeah, good!

-How old are you?

-80.

-80!

Gosh! That's amazing.

How often do you come?

Every day. Every day.

Because he is also a save-guard, you know?

A lifeguard. That's why you have a good physique.

Ella es una mujer muy bonita.

He says that you're a beautiful lady.

Thank you. Thank you.

Thank you. I'll have to come and live here!

-Of course.

-I don't get that kind of attention at home.

Coming to Cuba is a good idea.

-Shall we go in?

-Yes, let's do it!

Now, I want to see how they're getting in.

-Because I won't be so agile.

-No.

Be very careful.

-VOICEOVER:

-I don't really care much about appearance.

Jan, for example, she is,

as it were, my opposite number.

She's everything that Miriam isn't.

I can talk, I can make jokes, I can...

..I hope, make people happy.

But I don't look great. But I manage.

-I'm in!

-She's in, she's in.

You know, do I worry about it at night? No.

I don't.

I can't turn over.

That's the thing.

Push me towards there, I'm getting scared.

-Yeah.

-It's really hard to turn over.

It makes me nervous.

I'm just, you know, I'm a frightened Jew.

That's what I am.

-Ooh!

-OK.

-Mucho.

Whilst the others are at the beach,

Bobby has joined Horatio for a Cuban daily ritual -

newspaper and a coffee.

-Three?

-Grandma, tambien.

What's that?

Oh, right.

In Cuba, locals can only read newspapers

approved by the government.

So when you read the paper, this is, obviously, this is an official one?

This is the official information from the government.

The government, so, obviously,

it could be, like, trimmed down a bit,

because they don't want to put everything in the paper, or not?

Well, whatever you read here is what the Government decide the people...

-Should know.

-..will read.

I see. OK.

Let's go up here, shall we?

Is he married?

No, not now.

Oh. You mean he's widowed, or divorced?

-He?

-Yeah.

-Divorced.

-Divorced.

With a body like that, I should think the women run after him.

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

-What?

-He said you are very beautiful woman.

Thank you very much.

Well, you are a very lovely man.

We could go for coffee, and you could translate.

-Yeah!

-Thank you.

-Gracias, mucho...

-Thank you.

-Oh, yeah.

-Nice body.

-Yes.

-Big balls.

-Oh, stop it!

Oh, Miriam!

I just said that so you would...

To wind me up!

-You like talking to men.

-I do.

I openly admit, and it's nothing to do with flirting,

I like men's company.

I like talking with men, and, quite frankly, if they say nice things,

-it's lovely.

-He could come and save me in the water any day!

JAN LAUGHS

Oh, that's a baby coffee.

-It's espresso.

-Espresso, is it?

They're tiny! Looks like an egg cup.

It's strong.

That is the Cuban style for drink coffee.

It's not bad.

I like it. Like most Cubans,

one of the most important things in any Cuban house

is to offer a coffee.

So what was it like growing up, as a kid?

My memories just...are related

with the revolution.

The '50s, the situation in Cuba was really hard for everybody.

Fidel was the driver, but the feeling,

the national feeling was to change the situation.

Yeah, but when I was young it was hard, as well.

It was, cos after the war it was horrible.

I was brought up, my dad was blind, I didn't have anything.

I had to go to jumble sales to get the clothes.

When you're young, you always remember something.

And I always say, colour telly...

-Collie?

-..coloured, colour television...

-Yeah.

..and the Beatles, changed the way we lived.

HORATIO LAUGHS

That's what I say.

-It's like here.

-It's changed for you, but it's the same as us.

Same as me.

Every summer, Havana is host to one of the world's best known carnivals.

Having been invited to take part in tonight's celebrations,

Wayne is keen to explore the local dance scene.

-VOICEOVER:

-For me to move abroad and settle down, I need my culture fix.

Dance and choreography are still very important to me.

I tried to retire when I was 40 years old - boring!

I couldn't do that for longer than a week.

The dance company is run by veteran choreographer Santiago Alfonso.

I've never seen anything like this before.

The suppleness of the bodies is incredible.

That's why the Cuban dancers are some of the best in the world now.

-Thanks for coming.

-Fantastic.

-Thanks for coming.

-Thank you.

-Welcome!

How are you? It's fantastic.

-Hello! Hola!

-Buenas!

-Buenas!

Nombre Wayne Sleep.

And I was with the Royal Ballet...

SANTIAGO TRANSLATES

..for 20 years.

I'm 69 years old.

-Oh, you're younger than me!

-I'm not younger than you!

-You're younger than me.

-78.

-You're not 78!

-I am, too.

God, there's hope for us all.

-You see something.

-Look at you!

He's still moving. Is he a good teacher?

ALL: Yes!

Yeah, you have to say yes!

SANTIAGO AND WAYNE LAUGH

Can you tell me about this dance?

What do you call this dance?

No, no.

-..all together.

-It's fantastic.

-Loved it.

-Now you do it with us.

-Oh!

-Do the thing with us.

-Now I will learn Cuban dance.

ALL: OK, yes!

WAYNE LAUGHS

This way.

-VOICEOVER:

-Why I keep coming back to Cuba, it's for the passion and the drive they have.

The hunger is incredible,

that you don't really see anywhere else.

That's it!

When I joined in, I felt like a complete beginner.

None of my classical technique came into use at all.

-Thank you.

-Say something.

I can't speak.

-It was fantastic.

-Like that?

-I won't be able to walk for a week!

-OK.

Marta!

-E possibile venire un momento?

-Si!

I want to make some gin-tonica.

Agua tonica?

Tonica, gin, er, ghiccia, ice.

Hielo?

-Gielo.

-Gielo. One moment, please.

Just going to fart.

SHE FARTS

That's it.

-Sorry, Bobby.

-I heard it.

'Kin hell!

Love gin and tonic.

It's a great drink.

It's really my only tipple.

Well, that's not quite true, because I do like whisky.

Chin, chin.

-Salud!

-Salut.

-Lovely job.

-Needs more gin.

-Mmm.

That was incredible.

I've never seen dancing like that before.

I've seen every other kind of dance,

and it's incredible. And look at this view!

-This is...

-This is Havana.

This is Havana.

Cuba is a culture of confluences.

We have from Spain, we have from Africa.

-I see, yes.

-All mix.

On top of that, our weather.

-Our light.

-Yes.

-That makes us very open people.

-Yes, yes.

Do you think you can go on teaching for ever?

Till the... I would love, if the Lord blesses me,

I would love to be working till the last minute.

I think the key to old age, from what I've seen here,

is that you must keep going, keep doing something.

If I lived here, I'd teach class, maybe form my own group,

and just get something new going.

Oh, I wouldn't be sitting by a pool.

Well, some of the day!

But your bum's got to go out, in,

-out, in, out, in...

-Oh, my goodness.

It's 6pm.

Ahead of tonight's carnival,

the group are gathering at Wayne and Jan's house.

It's very different from ours.

-Yes, it is.

-It's modern.

Yours is very arty.

-Oh, that's beautiful.

-Isn't it?

Lovely.

To help get in the carnival spirit, Wayne has been sent a traditional

outfit by the dance company he will be performing with.

I'm really going to enjoy it.

Once you hear that music, you just can't help dancing and moving.

And I'm sure all my lot will be jigging around in their seats as well.

-Hello!

-Oh, wow.

-Ole!

-Ole!

Is that a skirt? You've got to wear a skirt as well?

Oh, yeah, you wait.

-Oh, my God!

-Actually, I think it's rather stylish.

What, they keep the flies away, them bottoms, are they, or something?

Well, there we are, loves, I'm off.

-Thank you!

-All right son, be lucky.

Dear, oh, dear, does it ever end?

It's carnival time in Havana.

Throughout August, thousands of locals flock to the coastal road,

known as the Malecon, to soak up the free festival atmosphere.

I never thought I would ever

be performing in Havana Carnival.

Very nice!

For one night only, Wayne will be joining one of the dance

troupes from across the city that make up the traditional parade.

I'm feeling like the Pirate Of The Caribbean!

But I'm not feeling very good about the dance.

Oh!

-VOICEOVER:

-I've done no rehearsal for this.

But I've got two beautiful ladies,

who look like zebras in black and white,

who are going to guide me through.

I'll be like putty in their hands.

Blimey! There's lots of people.

I always try and steer clear of places like this.

I get a bit nervous in big crowds, because I'm so short.

But the colour, and the movement, as Barry Humphries would say,

the vitality.

No, it's good.

-Wayne's over there.

-I can see him!

Dance is always part of my life.

I think it's given me a tenacity, a staying power.

The worse thing about growing old is that you have much less time than

you had when you were younger, when we didn't even think of a time

limit to our lives.

So I don't believe in suddenly saying things like,

"Oh, I don't think I could do that now."

I'm not growing old gracefully.

I'm growing old as a, sort of, juvenile delinquent.

Fantastic!

-I didn't know what I was doing!

-Wonderful, wonderful.

I was a bit worried that I'd make a fool of myself in front of all these

fantastic moving men and women.

And I think we just about pulled it off.

You know, there's life in the old boy yet!

Right, are we going? Oh, no, we're waiting for Madam.

Miriam's having a "dump", she said.

Miriam felt another movement.

And I don't want to be there when it moves!

-Here I am.

-Was it a big one?

-Yup.

WAYNE LAUGHS

Wayne!

Well, we're going to hear about it anyway.

You don't have to join in, you know!

-Sorry to hold you up.

-As long as you feel better.

-Well, I feel more secure, let's put it like that.

-Good.

This morning, the group are making the short walk to the local park.

To help keep Cuba's elderly population fit and healthy,

the state funds a variety of neighbourhood initiatives.

One of the most popular are the alfresco exercise programmes.

Uno, dos...

-I'll do this bit all right.

-How are you doing, dear?

Yeah, this is all right. I don't mind doing this bit.

-Do you like it?

-No, I don't like it.

-Non mi piace.

-Ah, non ti piace?

What kind of exercise do you like?

-Ti piace?

-Zero!

-Zero!

WOMAN LAUGHS

It's good, very good for our...

..health, especially when we are not so young.

WOMAN LAUGHS

True.

Respiramos...

I would like to be more active, so I should get off my bottom.

You dig your grave with your knife and fork.

GROUP SING AND HUM TO MUSIC

So you do this every day?

Yes, it's very good. I suffer chronic stress.

So I started taking here classes of exercises,

and also in the old-age university.

What is the old-age university?

They give you different subjects that are very interesting subjects,

to, how to deal with your problems,

-day by day.

-Is it free?

-Do you have to pay?

-No, it's free.

-Totally free.

-This is the government, presumably.

-Yes, yes.

The government give it for free, to anyone over...

50, 48, something like that.

-And up to 90.

-Up to 90!

And more.

As well as free health care, Cuba's pensioners have access to over 230

state-run day centres.

In Havana, there's a university for senior citizens.

Miriam and Bobby are keen to see if they can learn anything new.

What is the subject today?

Today we are going to introduce, to...

..participate in a class about sexuality...

About sexuality?

..in the elderly people.

Oh, elderly sexuality.

Oh, that's new.

BOBBY LAUGHS

That's different, isn't it?

Oh, yeah, I might learn something.

What we're planning to put across the table is that, how much

stigma there is against the third age

on this particular subject of sexuality.

Grandchildren sometimes said, "Grandma and

"grandad should not have sex because it's dangerous for them."

And that is not the reality.

-VOICEOVER:

-I don't have sex very much now.

My partner and I deeply love each other.

And we cuddle.

I enfold her in my arms,

and I feel joy.

Absolute joy.

But there isn't a lot of penetration, let's put it like that.

There is an expression that says, "Factory is closing down,

"but the amusement park is about to open!"

Would you like to share your age?

I'm 72.

Esta pensado un poco, pero cree que es 72. Miriam, you don't mind if I ask you?

No, I'm 76.

And I'm lesbian.

-And I have a partner for nearly 50 years.

-OK.

Miriam has said...

Ella es lesbiana y tiene una companera por casi cincuenta anos.

What I loved about the Cubans was

when I told them that I was a lesbian, they didn't faint,

they clapped, because I've been with my partner so long.

They were pleased for me.

I am absolutely astonished to be

sitting here talking about sex with

a lot of strangers in such an open,

relaxed, informative, way.

This would NOT happen in England.

I think the Cuban people are just fabulous.

-They just...

-I mean, if you'd said that we were going to spend the

afternoon talking about sex with a lot of old people, I'd have said, "Oh, I don't think I'll like that."

But that was really brilliant.

They looked happy, they were cheerful.

They're investing in life, still.

I think it's delicious.

It's early evening in Havana.

Jan is getting ready for a double date with the 70-year-old lifeguard

and the married couple she met at the beach.

Life is for experiences.

And aren't I fortunate to be given the chance?

Up to there he's got a body of a 30-year-old.

It's going to be interesting.

Especially as Renaldo doesn't speak a word of English,

which rather inhibits conversation, but we'll get by.

I could at least say good evening. What's that?

-Buenas noches.

-Oh, buenas noches.

-Buenas noches.

-Buenas noches.

There's "que tal?" How are you?

-Oh, look!

-Oh!

JAN GIGGLES

-Hello.

-Oh, my goodness.

-Hola!

-Hola!

-Hola.

-Buenas tardes.

-No, no, buenas noches.

Oh, buenas noches.

Oh, my goodness.

Thank you. Right, bye-bye.

Bye-bye. See you later. Enjoy your evening.

Take care.

-VOICEOVER:

-I know I've been married a few times, but I've never had

anybody, really, to look after me.

Oh, the car!

I live on my own, and have done for 14 years.

But there's a part of me that would very much like to share.

You have car?

You have a car?

Like, you, car?

DRIVER SPEAKS SPANISH

Moto, moto, moto.

Motorbike? Ah.

SHE LAUGHS

I'm glad you didn't pick me up on that!

Jan and Renaldo are heading to one of Havana's home-run restaurants,

known as paladares.

Thank you! Muchas gracias.

Thank you.

-Hello.

-Hello!

-Hello, hello.

-Hello, Arestes.

-Hello, Jan.

-Hello, Miriam.

-Ooh, sorry!

-Two.

-French way.

To help the lines of communication, Miriam and Arestes will be acting as

their interpreters for the evening.

I feel so embarrassed that I speak no Spanish.

And poor Renaldo, I mean, you know,

we're communicating with sign language.

By sign! That's universal.

-OK.

-Oh, thank you.

Ooh!

That's a very impressive menu.

-Do you need some help?

-No, look!

ALL LAUGH

-VOICEOVER:

-Another misconception of the young is, when you get older

there is no such thing as a physical relationship.

You have your children, and that's it.

That is not true.

Believe you and me.

The fires might slacken a bit, but they're still there.

Renaldo has been married a couple of times.

I'm told that, sometimes,

people divorce, but they stay in the same house?

That's true. In Havana the problems of living are...

It's very difficult.

To find somewhere to live?

-Yes.

-The wife, the only wife, is still living in his house?

MIRIAM TRANSLATES

But you don't share...

Oh, I'm glad to hear that!

MIRIAM LAUGHS

This is just doing my head in!

ARESTES LAUGHS

I've always paid the bills.

I've always kept a roof over my head.

I can always keep myself busy.

But it would be lovely to have

somebody whom one could go on

holiday with, or go to the theatre with.

Up until the last 14 years,

I was invariably in a relationship,

and I was used to being part of a pair.

Le soir est bien, tres bien.

Mais, en espanol, c'est n'est pas possible, parce que je ne parle pas.

-VOICEOVER:

-Unfortunately, it may never happen now.

Muchas gracias.

por the flores, and for a lovely evening.

Thank you.

Thank you very, very much.

-Adios!

-Adios.

May I have some toast, please?

It's the group's last day in Havana.

I thought that was terracotta,

and I've just realised it's some sort of sausage meat.

SHE GIGGLES

-It's chicken sausage, actually.

-Is it?

-Mmm.

Bobby and I took sleeping pills last night, so we had a good sleep.

-Did you?

-Good for you.

-BOBBY:

-I dreamt about you last night, Miriam.

-Ooh!

-Oh.

-Did you?

-No, you wouldn't let me!

MIRIAM AND BOBBY LAUGH

To make the most of his remaining time,

Wayne has decided to venture out in a bid to improve his Spanish.

-Buenas dias!

-Buenas dias.

-Que tal?

SHE SPEAKS SPANISH

-Un mesa por una "person".

-Bienvenido.

Gracias.

Could I have a cafe...

Um...

What's it called? Mojito?

No, macchiato.

No? Um, all right.

-Er...black coffee.

-Black, short?

-Espresso.

-Yes.

-Espresso, con leche.

-Like cortado.

-Cortado!

Yes, I know.

Yes, that's what I meant.

I want to thrill my husband with my Spanish when I get back to England.

HE LAUGHS

Gracias, senor. Que tal?

-Si, e te?

-Oh, me, muy bien.

-OK. Buen provecho.

-Thank you.

In Cuba, the game of dominoes is a national obsession.

Having practised against his hosts,

Bobby is venturing out with Horacio to a popular spot in the residential

neighbourhood of Marinal.

THEY SPEAK SPANISH

The pair are planning to take on some of the locals.

Anything you do,

in any sport, you want to win.

You know, I want to win. When you do bowls, you do snooker, pool...

If you are coming to lose, it's better not to go.

Yeah. You come to win.

-VOICEOVER:

-I played dominoes when I was a kid. It was like playing cards, in a way.

More you do it, better you get at it.

Hello, sir.

The most important thing, when you get to a certain age,

you've got to be active.

You've got to get this bit going.

If this dies, the body goes with it.

Even better.

Lovely game, this, innit?

HE LAUGHS

-ON PHONE:

-Hello?

-Hello, Jose.

Who is this?

It's Wayne.

"Who's this"?

-Ah!

-Ooh!

Yeah, I just missed you.

I just thought it would be nice to have a little chat, say hi!

Is it good views?

Oh, lots of good views.

My God, the men are beautiful!

Yes, there's a lot of eye candy in Cuba.

I'll tell you that now!

BOTH LAUGH

Well, I look forward to seeing you.

-Have fun, love you.

-Bye, take care, bye. Bye.

-Bye, bye.

I miss him. He's... You know, he's part of my life.

You know, at my age, 69, what is important are the cuddles.

The embracing, the knowing somebody's there.

I think, as you get older,

the main thing that keeps the relationship together

are separate bathrooms!

OTHER MEN SPEAK SPANISH

Oh, that won.

Great! This is my opening.

MEN LAUGH

Yeah, it was quite enjoyable, really. I mean,

I'm not very good at it.

THEY CHEER AND LAUGH

They're quite nice blokes, they were, and all.

They bought me a beer and, you know, they were friendly.

They were very friendly.

If I lived here, obviously I would probably go to a place like that.

To mark the end of their time in Cuba, tonight

the group are throwing a farewell party.

-Is this yours?

-Yeah, yeah.

-Oh, I didn't realise.

Jan has booked herself and Miriam

into the hairdresser's for a spruce-up.

What do you want to do?

I just want rollers...

WOMAN TRANSLATES

..to make it high.

Up, with some height, and maybe...

Maybe a cut.

THEY SPEAK SPANISH

Miriam, do you go to the hairdresser?

No.

-Not ever?

-No.

I don't. I like the way I look.

That's what people don't understand.

I think that's admirable.

I mean, I wish that I had the confidence to go out with

no make-up, but I haven't. I envy you in a way.

-I don't...

-It must be very nice.

Now, we get the Gypsy Rose Lee look.

-(IN ACCENT):

-Cross my palm with silver!

Now, not too hot!

Il controllo...

Agua?

Per favor.

That is absolutely stunning.

He's brilliant.

WOMAN TRANSLATES

Brilliant. Oh, you are wonderful! Thank you.

Oh, my God!

It's too nice.

It's too elegant.

I want to scrunch it, like this.

Scrunch, scrunch!

-How do you feel?

-Ridiculous!

-Why?

-It's not me.

Well, then, run your hands through it when you get...

I'll sort it out when I get home, yeah.

-Of course. You look great.

-Thank you.

-You look lovely. It's a triumph.

I haven't looked like this for years!

-Bye!

-Bye.

Oh!

-You dancing?

-Mind the heights.

It's 6pm.

There we are.

Party preparations are underway.

It's very artistic, Wayne.

Ooh, thank you.

You haven't lost your touch, love.

Ooh, haven't lost my touch. Lovely.

And a special delivery has arrived.

Ooh, my God!

That is incredible.

Miriam won't like it, but I do!

HE LAUGHS

-Look at that!

-Now I know why I'm Jewish when I look at that.

On festive occasions, it's

traditional to serve a hog-roast, Cuban style.

Smoking a cigar!

WAYNE LAUGHS

I tell you what, we could put a little rum, here?

Just a little, because...

-Yes.

-..the fruit absorb a lot...

Yes? And we'll all get drunk? No!

For sure!

JAN LAUGHS

I don't know if I leave it on the bone.

I suppose I do, don't I? Some of it?

Nice!

Hello.

Everyone the group have met during their stay has been invited.

First of all, what would you like to drink?

-Hello, Miriam.

-Hello.

Marta, you're going to have a gin and tonic,

because that's the only thing I can do.

Hello, my friend. There you go, son.

Lovely jubbly.

-Nice to see you.

-Good.

Now, don't get too sexy!

Oh, you remembered!

Hello. Hello.

How lovely to see you.

Do you... ? Would you like a...

Oh, what's this?

Entonces para retengan de recuerdo.

That is a souvenir for you, for you, you see.

Oh!

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

For the moment that we are here, spend all the times here.

Ooh. Oops!

Ooh! Oh!

Thank you.

Oh, isn't that...

Oh, that's very good.

Thank you. How gorgeous.

Aren't I lucky?

OK, could you come and eat, please?

Eat. Food!

This way. Food.

Tony, this is Renaldo.

We met swimming.

He swims very well. Very well indeed.

Don't you? You... Renaldo, you swim well.

You are... Bueno, swim.

Swim very well.

SENORES...

..e caballeros!

GROUP CHEER AND SHOUT

Thank you to our friends in Havana who've been so kind,

so welcoming, so generous, so full of life.

We have learnt so much from you and we've had a wonderful week,

wonderful, and we want to come back.

Thank you very much.

THEY APPLAUD AND CHEER

Thank you very much.

-VOICEOVER:

-They are living fully and well.

They are happy. They are still alive

and searching and full of life, actually.

And that's why I want to come back, because they give me hope.

Steady, old man!

SHE LAUGHS

The Cubans never stop going.

And they're excited, still, by life and that's what they can teach us,

to be excited every day, to wake up to a new day and think,

"I'm still alive, and I'm going to

"make full use of the day I've got left."

Oh, oh! And finish.

-JAN:

-You're going!

It's been absolutely lovely.

Remember forever.

Oh, my God! He's speaking in English.

He says he will remember you for ever.

And I will remember you.

HE SPEAKS SPANISH

Oh!

-Bye.

-It was a pleasure.

-I do like Renaldo.

He'd...

..gone to the trouble of learning two words, and

he said, "Remember forever."

It was just one of those rather sweet,

rather magical moments that I'll always remember.

-MIRIAM:

-It's funny, because I wasn't looking forward to this at all.

-I wasn't. I wasn't.

-And I've enjoyed it, you know.

There's a lot of food left!

Odio packing. I hate packing.

The main thing is to have knickers at the top.

Put a bit of smelly on.

You never know, do you?!

-Hasta luegos!

-Tony, thank you so much.

It was such a pleasure being with you in your home.

Thank you so much.

No, honestly, it's...

Really, happy.

Right. I'm in.

Ritorni pronto.

-WAYNE:

-Yes, "returne pronto".

I'm understanding it more.

I can't say it,

but I understand Spanish much more now I've been here.

"Ayer" is today.

Or is it yesterday?

I just can't wait to get in with all you guys!

Next time...

..a new group of well-known marigold faces...

Oh, you're not hanging about, babe.

..try to find the key to longevity...

SHE GRUNTS

..in Iceland.

There he is. Look at that, look at that.

-We have just witnessed...

-The death of two old men!