A Summer on Rathlin True North


A Summer on Rathlin

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# Fhir a' bhata 's na horo eile

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# Fhir a' bhata 's na horo eile

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# Mo shoraidh slan leat Gach aite an teid thu. #

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Rathlin Island.

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Six miles north of the Antrim coast,

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and home to just over 100 people,

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whose way of life is shaped by the spectacular landscape in which they live.

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From generation to generation, youngest to oldest,

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everyone has their place in the island family.

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It's a beautiful place.

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And it should be left as a beautiful place for the next generation.

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Newcomers who settle soon find themselves

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welcomed into the heart of the island community.

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It has really blown me away

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how much the people of Rathlin join together as a community.

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If I was bringing up a kid there'd be no place I'd rather bring them up than Rathlin.

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Do you know what I mean? I'd love to bring them up here.

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Rathlin is a working island, and values its young people

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as the key to survival for future generations.

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It's nice, living on an island. It's quite slow paced.

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But in the summertime there's a lot of visitors. It's hectic going.

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I'm Theresa McFaul. I live here at the lower end of the island.

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I have four children, married to my husband, John,

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and this is my first grandchild.

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This is Rowan Daniel McFaul.

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He was born in May and he's the youngest islander.

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I would say island life, cross-communication

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through the generations

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is very much involved.

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If there's a function on, everybody goes,

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from the eldest person down to the new baby.

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It's, it's just part of what you do.

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BABY MIZZLES

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I would get involved in most things.

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I'm one of these people that has to be in the middle of everything.

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Whether I'm liked or not, I like to get in there and get hands-on.

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I always was involved in the drama, from when I first came to the island,

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when we started the drama group, I've been in every production.

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Every year, I would look up plays and sort out who would suit the parts

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and annoy them. From February, everybody hides from me!

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This year, I'd actually said I wasn't doing anything, but we're here.

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-Will you be two different ships, then?

-Yeah.

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Set sail for Rathlin!

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Michael Cecil is a skipper with the Rathlin ferry company.

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And a linchpin of the island community association.

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I've been living on Rathlin all my life, and a lot

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of the population are active seven days a week, all year round.

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In some form or other. There's an awful lot of volunteer work goes on.

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Like this part's probably the community association on the island,

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of which I am currently chair.

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It used to be a young family.

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They're not so young now, they're starting to grow up,

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and one's off at university.

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The next one's going to secondary school in September.

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And my youngest is still at primary school on Rathlin.

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This is nothing to do with me.

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For island children, the transition from primary to secondary school

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also involves living away from home.

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Are you settling in?

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We are in the process of getting Orlagh ready to start boarding school.

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I think she's looking forward to it,

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but it's a nervous time for everybody.

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Anxious time but it will work out.

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CHILDREN LAUGH

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-We could have done with a secondary school in Rathlin.

-I know.

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Imagine one was made here.

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I think it's better the kids go away to school, anyway.

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Get to meet other children their own age.

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Are you looking forward to Orlagh going away to school?

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Kind of.

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Kind of?

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Just remember, all the jobs

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that Orlagh normally does,

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you're going to have to do.

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Feed the dogs, water the dogs, walk the dogs.

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Brian gets spoiled anyway,

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so he might even get worse when Orlagh goes away.

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I've been up to see the school a few times.

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-A bit nervous, are you?

-Yeah.

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I think it'll be good as well.

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It's a good kind of nervous.

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Orlagh will be relying on the ferry to get her home at weekends.

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The islanders' lifeline to the mainland,

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the ferry is also one of Rathlin's biggest employers.

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Its youngest skipper is 25-year-old Fergus McFaul.

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I left school, I went straight from school to commercially fish,

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so whenever I came home, back in 2006, I was only actually 18

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when I came home, 19, I had already fished commercially for three years.

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I didn't really give it a second thought.

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Having any responsibility, as to taking control of a boat,

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but, when ever you step in the wheelhouse, it doesn't matter

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what age you are, you just take on a slightly different persona.

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You are then in charge of a vessel or crew,

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and whoever, passengers, or crew, any person's life's very important,

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so you take your role seriously and, whatever the conditions may be,

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you just need to make the right call.

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And if you have to tie the boat up, you have to tie the boat up.

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Some of my relations and all,

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the other families on the island all started at sea. That was the old job.

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The men went to sea and the women became nurses or whatever way

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it was, while some of that's changed, it's still there, I suppose,

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and sometimes it just takes a lot to take it out of your system.

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You have to go to sea. That's what you want to do.

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And it's the same in a lot of coastal areas and a lot of islands.

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That's my wife waiting to come home with the shopping.

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Have they all got different expressions on their faces? They do!

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-They really do.

-I didn't intend to!

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Orlagh is the only pupil in P7,

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and one of just nine children in Rathlin's primary school.

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Painted?

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It's been a big change for her teacher, Jane McVeigh,

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who took over running the school a year ago.

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I worked in a very large inner-city school in London,

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with hundreds and hundreds of pupils, and a very large staff.

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But, it was a very lonely place at times, even though

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you're surrounded by lots and lots of people,

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and the change has been unbelievable in my life. Erm...

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People might think that coming to an island might be lonely.

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I haven't felt lonely at all on this island.

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In making the move from primary school on Rathlin to boarding school in Belfast,

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Orlagh is following in the footsteps of many island children before her.

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Children go away on a Sunday evening and they come back on Friday evening.

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If the weather's good. Sometimes they don't get home if the weather's bad.

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I miss the boys when they go away, obviously, but I'm so used to

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it now, after sending five children, five boys, away to boarding school.

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It's been going on for the last 14 years for us.

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It's just part of living on Rathlin.

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As we know, all people from the North Coast are nice people.

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That's fair, isn't it?

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I go to school at the Campbell College in Belfast.

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I was homesick for the first week, and then I got used to it

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because I had my older brothers here, so, I felt like they were

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looking after me, and then also had the matron and house mothers.

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This is like home, isn't it? Yous are spoilt, boys.

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There's not many children your age on Rathlin.

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And when you come to secondary school,

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there's loads of them your age, and you really start to grasp

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the opportunity, you know, to see what life's like off the island.

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SCHOOL BELL RINGS

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The boys' dad, Noel, spent 20 years working on lighthouses

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around Ireland, before returning to Rathlin,

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where, among other things, he's the island postman.

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This is me.

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Normal work during the week.

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A lot of the jobs are not full-time, full-time salaries,

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so people tend to have a second job.

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Hello, hello, hello.

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My other job would be the water service and the Irish Lights.

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That's my granddaughter.

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The lighthouse service job is basically call-out only

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and you do a bit of maintenance once a week or once a fortnight.

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Ferry skipper Fergus is working to secure a future on the island.

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This summer, he's busy finishing the hostel

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he and his business partners hope will be a welcome addition to the island's tourist industry.

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We bought the house that came with this land here five years ago, come this September now.

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I was 20 at the time.

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So we decided to build a hostel that would suit around 25,

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maybe even 30 people.

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One of the main new industries is the tourist trade on the island

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and we are only starting now to get geared up properly for it.

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People opening new businesses every year.

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We're one of them, and there's a new chip shop built,

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a new harbour cafe was opened.

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Now, I think, with the improved ferry service that the tourist trade

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became a bit more of a staple.

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A firm favourite with tourists and locals alike, rehearsals

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are in full swing for the island drama group's summer production.

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I love mixing with people and trying to find people for parts and that,

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and this year we were very lucky.

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The RSPB fellas came in and gave us a hand. Johnny and Diarmuid.

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The drama group, always, since we started, every year,

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we've had to include somebody new

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and this is the first year the children have actually done for us.

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Getting ready for the village play.

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The village play, on Rathlin, is part of festival week.

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It's been going on for over 100 years.

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And, yeah, I'm very honoured this year

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to be asked to be in the village play.

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Teresa's good at getting us all in line

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and making sure we're stood in the right place on the stage,

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and making sure we're all shouting loud enough.

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Jack Duncan has got the loudest voice in that kids' play, for sure!

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My favourite line of his, I can't give too much away,

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but, yeah, he goes "Set sail for Rathlin!" Do it, Jack!

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Set sail for Rathlin!

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JOHNNY LAUGHS

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Johnny!

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Johnny and Diarmuid are summer residents on the island,

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and when they aren't treading the boards,

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they're on duty at the RSPB Seabird Centre,

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where they act as guides for the many visitors who pass their way.

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So, this is the crew house, where me and Johnny live.

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And this is our heating. A log burner.

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-We got all the turf and the wood, there.

-Have you met Rosie yet?

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There's Rosie, as well. Rosie's the other girl who lives here.

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BODHRAN PLAYS

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Whoo!

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There are many things that set island life apart.

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One of them is how self-sufficient the islanders have always had to be.

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Services most people take for granted,

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they have to provide themselves.

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This is some of our volunteer fire crew.

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We come down here most Monday nights for a bit of pump practice,

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see if we can get some water from the lake.

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It's normally what we would use for any fire on the island.

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Believe it or not, living on an island, water's quite limited.

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Water off!

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We have a limited freshwater supply at the fire hydrant.

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Most times, for gorse fires, we have to find water at another

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location, either the lake or the sea or small streams.

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Cooperation and self-reliance really matter here, and inform

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the islanders' response to anything that might affect their community.

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An exploration company believes it may have found

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hundreds of millions of barrels of oil off the coast of County Antrim.

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But, there are worries about the impact

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of the potential discovery on Rathlin Island,

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and many of its 100 residents are concerned

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that drilling close to them could damage

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Rathlin's relatively untouched environment.

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People would be concerned that there may be some damage

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to our tourism sector, or maybe some environmental damage.

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The uncertainty's probably the biggest concern.

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We don't know what is going to happen.

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We don't know when it's going to happen.

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If we had some clarity on that, it gives people a focus.

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It's very hard to put it into your mind's eye,

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as to think there could be an oil well just off your doorstep.

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And the disasters that could maybe come with something like that.

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Let's not get ahead of ourselves.

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We have to get the first step, which is,

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are we going to do the level of exploration we would like to do?

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What are the opportunities?

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What is the process by which we get the permitting?

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Would it get approved?

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Etc, etc.

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The company behind the oil exploration,

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Providence Resources plc, is based in Dublin,

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and has interests across Ireland and the UK.

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We licensed the area by making an application

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and we were awarded two licences,

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one from the Department in Northern Ireland,

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which actually gave us the island of Rathlin as an exploration area,

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and then subsequently,

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we were awarded the offshore acreage out of Westminster.

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As chair of the local development and community association,

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Michael has had to think long and hard about the best

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response to an issue that could have huge repercussions in the future.

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You can out and out oppose it as a community

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or as part of a community, but it doesn't tend to be a good approach.

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Tends to lead to a lot of division

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amongst the community itself, and it's probably not a winner.

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The oil companies and government have a lot of resources behind them

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that community and voluntary groups don't have.

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It's not something I would like to see

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but it probably would split the community.

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That half the community would be out and out opposed

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to some commercial development,

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whereas the other half may be in support of it.

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My preferred approach would be to sit down

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and engage with the government and engage with the oil companies.

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To make sure all the environmental protection is in place

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all the legislation's followed, all the health and safety procedures,

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and possibly extract some community benefit from any potential revenue that's there.

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You're not agreeing to what's happening, but you're making sure

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the protection's in place and that you do derive some benefit from it.

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One of Rathlin's many community projects is the Tuesday Club.

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A senior group who meet weekly to socialise and go on outings.

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Or, as they are doing today, sharing stories with the younger generation

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about the island traditions they grew up with.

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Used to get a flat ring, well, a wooden ring,

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and this handle you'd put on,

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and you trundled it, as we called it, trundled it ahead of you down here.

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We're having a teddy bears' picnic,

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and when we decided to have it with the children,

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we thought it'd be a really good idea to invite

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the Tuesday Club with us as well, because we've been working

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with the Tuesday Club this year, and we want to keep those links.

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Teddy bears from all around the world.

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I present the ocarinas from St Mary's primary school.

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APPLAUSE AND CHEERING

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CHILDREN PLAY OCARINAS

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I enjoy the children here, I enjoy,

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they're very good children.

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They respect the elderly.

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-Their great talents, aren't they?

-Oh, yes.

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It has really blown me away how much the people of Rathlin join together

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as a community, adults and children alike.

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The children are a key part of the community as well.

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I think it's good that they all mix in together, because then we get

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to play games and hear stories from the older generation on the island.

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WOMAN SINGS IN IRISH

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With the summer season in full swing,

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Fergus is taking time out from working on the hostel to help

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build a currach boat for Rathlin's inaugural Maritime Festival.

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That's what the Maritime Festival's about,

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the revival of the maritime heritage in this area.

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The currach was part of the heritage here and,

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although it's been lost, it's still being used on the west coast.

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So that's what's part of trying to take the currach back.

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In a summer already packed with yacht races, music and drama,

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the maritime festival is going to have to rely on everyone

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pitching in to make it a success.

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That community spirit is still there, still in all communities.

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It takes just a small festival to bring it all out, bring it together.

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-How's it going?

-Very well, thank you.

-Good stuff, good, good.

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As one of the organisers,

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Michael knows that a successful festival this year

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could lead to further tourism and investment in the future.

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Today I'm down at the marquee down at the seafront. It's a beautiful day.

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There should be big crowds on the boats.

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We'll just wait another hour or so and everybody should appear.

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FIDDLERS PLAY A REEL

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But the week hasn't all been plain sailing.

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Thursday, unfortunately, we had a bit of a gorse fire on the island.

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And a lot of these guys that are involved in the festival

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and building the boats are also part-time firemen,

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so they were hauled away for firefighting duties,

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dealt with that, came back to the festival

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whenever they could, back to the fire, back to the festival,

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so they've been at it 24 hours a day, since Wednesday.

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With the help of fire crews from the mainland,

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the gorse fire was put out in the nick of time.

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And, as they set sail for home,

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another boat is about to take to the water.

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We're going to do a wee naming ceremony for this boat and the Ballycastle boat.

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We're just going to do that in five minute here, then into the water. The first row.

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Haven't even dipped her yet, haven't even soaked the head.

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I need a wee drop of whisky to pour over her bow.

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The currach race between the islanders

0:21:210:21:23

and a team from Ballycastle

0:21:230:21:25

is one of the most eagerly anticipated events of the day.

0:21:250:21:28

And, in another first for the festival, the East Lighthouse

0:21:340:21:37

is open to the public, and Michael has come up

0:21:370:21:40

to give Noel McCurdy a hand showing people around.

0:21:400:21:42

We're up at the Rathlin East Lighthouse.

0:21:430:21:46

It was one of the first lighthouses built on Rathlin, and we decided

0:21:460:21:52

to open it up for the visitors during the maritime festival.

0:21:520:21:56

There's a big tanker, which is a big worry for us on Rathlin,

0:21:560:21:59

because, one of these days, someday, one of them will run aground

0:21:590:22:03

and have a big oil spill like the Braer or the Exxon Valdez.

0:22:030:22:06

Ah, they couldn't do that.

0:22:060:22:07

Well, as long as you're here, Noel, we'll be all right.

0:22:070:22:10

I knew they'd do it! Beat them!

0:22:150:22:18

-Which team won today?

-Ourselves!

0:22:180:22:21

About 60 boat lengths ahead.

0:22:210:22:23

But we were cut into two.

0:22:230:22:25

The Rathlin team?

0:22:250:22:26

The Rathlin team, aye.

0:22:260:22:27

The Rathlin team.

0:22:270:22:29

After months of hard work, it's time for Teresa, Johnny

0:22:460:22:51

and the cast of the Rathlin play to take to the stage.

0:22:510:22:54

We're getting ready to start here, are we?

0:22:540:22:56

We're not little at all, you know.

0:22:560:22:58

Can't you see me? I'm drowning!

0:22:580:23:00

LAUGHTER

0:23:000:23:02

How many events do you go to nowadays that people get

0:23:030:23:05

-a good laugh, a good belly laugh?

-That's kind of where I'm from, really.

0:23:050:23:09

You wouldn't really get that many things like that when everybody from

0:23:090:23:13

the community was getting involved and everybody was supporting this.

0:23:130:23:16

..that was Gerry McFall's pre-fabricated houses...

0:23:160:23:19

LAUGHTER

0:23:190:23:21

He's a big wee'un, so he is!

0:23:210:23:23

..and sit down. I'm grand, like. Grand, thank God.

0:23:250:23:28

If I could just get him a woman there, you know!

0:23:280:23:31

Thanks, Jane. Thanks, Jane. That's my next step!

0:23:310:23:36

-You've got him staying here?

-Yes.

0:23:370:23:40

Yes - a wheen of wee Johnnys running around, and I don't mean Johnny Walkers!

0:23:400:23:43

-Good luck!

-You'll need it.

0:23:430:23:47

-That type of thing regularly happens.

-I mean, it's not just a once off.

0:23:520:23:55

It's not proposed just over the summertime

0:23:550:23:57

and there's a few visitors here that they have people together.

0:23:570:24:00

That happens throughout the year.

0:24:000:24:02

It's organised and that's why it is what it is, because of the people, you know.

0:24:020:24:07

And I think the character hasn't really changed

0:24:070:24:09

so much in the generations.

0:24:090:24:11

People are still the same.

0:24:110:24:13

Living on an island, people being happy

0:24:160:24:18

and content with each other is the most important thing.

0:24:180:24:21

It's more important than a place prospering, even.

0:24:210:24:23

And as regards the oil, that's another thing in the background that's happened in Rathlin.

0:24:230:24:29

Oil in general and gas exploration around the North Coast,

0:24:310:24:35

north of Ireland and even UK-wide, is always in the news

0:24:350:24:39

and to be honest, a lot of residents in Rathlin tend to get fed up

0:24:390:24:44

with the whole publicity surrounding it and the campaign surrounding it.

0:24:440:24:49

It's not really on people's lips

0:24:490:24:51

until it comes back onto our doorstep again. Time will tell.

0:24:510:24:54

We'll wait and see.

0:24:540:24:58

No matter what happens on Rathlin with developments of energy,

0:24:580:25:01

whatever it is, you need people, and you need young people coming forward.

0:25:010:25:07

It's lovely to see the next generation. Just to the future.

0:25:080:25:14

Today we're having an assembly for the leavers.

0:25:240:25:26

I'm leaving and we're singing songs and all the parents are coming up.

0:25:260:25:30

# ..a busy summer till we return next year

0:25:320:25:38

# We wish you all safe journeys

0:25:380:25:43

# Under skies of brilliant blue

0:25:430:25:47

# We wish you happy holidays

0:25:470:25:51

# When all your dreams come true. #

0:25:510:25:58

Orlagh is moving on to Victoria

0:26:030:26:06

and I promised myself I wouldn't get emotional but I am.

0:26:060:26:10

But it's a celebration as well

0:26:100:26:12

because Orlagh has been a wonderful, wonderful child this year to teach.

0:26:120:26:17

She is a delight to have and I think Victoria are very,

0:26:170:26:22

very lucky to have her.

0:26:220:26:24

I'm going away to secondary school so I'll be sad

0:26:240:26:27

but happy at the same time.

0:26:270:26:30

I'll be sad leaving but happy starting a new school.

0:26:300:26:33

No summer would be complete without a good old-fashioned ceilidh,

0:26:410:26:45

where hand-in-hand, young and old alike tread the same steps,

0:26:450:26:48

patterns and turns as the generations before them.

0:26:480:26:51

Would you like to eventually come back and live on Rathlin Island?

0:27:210:27:25

-This is your home. Isn't it?

-Yeah.

0:27:250:27:28

If you got married and had a family,

0:27:280:27:29

-would you like to come back here and bring up your children here?

-Yeah.

0:27:290:27:33

It's up to the rest of us to make sure it can happen, so we need

0:27:360:27:39

employment, we need housing and we need social activities.

0:27:390:27:44

And then we can attract everybody back again. That's the plan.

0:27:440:27:48

Yeah, I think I'll be here for a while. Yeah.

0:27:490:27:52

I've got lots to do here before I move on and maybe I'll never move on.

0:27:520:27:56

Who can tell?

0:27:560:27:57

The biggest driver for me and all the voluntary work

0:27:570:28:00

I do is to provide a better future for future generations on Rathlin.

0:28:000:28:05

And as you can see, it's a beautiful place and it should be

0:28:050:28:09

left as a beautiful place for the next generation coming along.

0:28:090:28:12

As the nights draw in, the islanders are already

0:28:360:28:39

planning for the next summer season and for the years to come,

0:28:390:28:43

the future of the island and its young people.

0:28:430:28:46

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