Mexico City World's Busiest Cities


Mexico City

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More than half of us now live in cities,

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and more of us are moving in.

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By 2050, two-thirds of the planet will be city dwellers.

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There's people going this way, people going that way.

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It's bonkers!

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We're exploring four iconic cities in all four corners of the world.

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This cycle rickshaw is coming the wrong way towards us.

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These are places bursting with life.

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Crowded, chaotic and complicated,

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they're also under pressure.

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HORNS BLARE

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All right, mate.

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We're going behind the scenes...

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..to uncover the hidden systems and armies of people

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running some of the greatest cities on Earth.

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This time, we're in Mexico City.

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A sprawling megalopolis, fuelled by optimism and enterprise.

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We're going to show you

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how this often makeshift and haphazard city works.

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Uncovering the incredible story of how it survives

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its many daily battles.

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Historian Dan Snow finds out what it's like

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to build big in a deadly earthquake zone.

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I'm feeling more confident about Mexico City's tallest building.

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Even if there's an earthquake, we're going be fine.

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You're going to be perfectly safe.

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Journalist Ade Adepitan looks for new sources of water

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in one of the world's thirstiest cities.

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That looks clean to me.

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Yeah, it is.

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It's fantastic. I'm so impressed, I am.

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And I'm Anita Rani.

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I'll be learning how they're trying to stop this massive megacity

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from drowning in its own waste.

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Oh, it's a sofa!

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There's a whole dashboard here.

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I mean, it's horrendous,

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but a vital part of any city.

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Join us for the adventure of a lifetime

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in The World's Busiest Cities.

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Mexico City -

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home to nearly 22 million people.

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And where better to start than in its beating heart - the streets?

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-Now this is a proper locals' market, isn't it?

-Yeah, exactly.

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So, this is where you're going to get absolutely everything you need.

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Oh, my God.

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Street food is almost a religion here -

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a mix of the cultures that built this city.

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DAN LAUGHS

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Amazing. We are in the home of the chilli.

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I know.

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VOICEOVER: This is one of 1,000 tianguis, or open-air markets,

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that have been here since the city began.

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Even the name dates back to the Aztec Empire.

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-Right, you're going to try that.

-I...

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-OK!

-OK.

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VOICEOVER: When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century,

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they called this food antojitos, or "little cravings".

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It's still a big part of how this informal city is fed.

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Gracias, muchas gracias.

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Street food is what it's all about in Mexico, Dan.

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That is so...

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It's terrifying. Go on, you go first.

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She orders it, she makes me try it -

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that's how this relationship works!

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-Gentleman first.

-Oh, God.

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Let's hope it's better than it looks.

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Oh!

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How is it? I'm going to try it.

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-Delicious.

-Is it really hot?

-It's really hot.

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-Crazy woman!

-Have I put too much chilli in it?

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Mm! That chilli is a killer.

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Thanks for the chilli, yeah.

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You can't come to Mexico and not have chilli!

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Home to an incredible one-fifth of Mexico's total population,

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this is a city that has come to define urban sprawl,

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with self-built homes clustered on its scattered hillsides.

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These colourful markets are where people come together.

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What I love about this place is, already, it can only be Mexico,

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you couldn't be anywhere else in the world - what people are eating,

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what they're wearing, what they look like.

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Even though it's so close to the United States,

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you expect American culture to be down here.

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In fact, it's just brilliantly vibrant, Mexican...

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-And so distinct.

-Yeah, it's so distinct.

-Yeah.

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And everybody's sitting down and eating.

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There's food stalls every five yards.

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Mexico City is one of the most challenging

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urban environments on the planet.

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It's grown at a staggering pace and is struggling to cope.

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HORNS BLARE

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It's crowded, it's congested...

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..there are problems with water and sewerage,

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and this haphazard city sits in a major earthquake zone,

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where parts of it are sinking around ten centimetres every year.

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VOICEOVER: But, sitting here, you'd never know it.

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I think it's interesting,

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because it is a city with massive ecological and other problems,

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and yet people don't seem very fussed about it.

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They're just getting on with it. They're enjoying it.

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And we're in the capital city, and yet this feels like

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we could be in, sort of, rural Mexico somewhere,

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some local market.

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See, Dan?

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People might think that this is some sort of cliche,

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but it's real, it happens.

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People just turn up and start playing trumpet.

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We're going to find out what really makes this megacity tick

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and experience the hidden systems and strength of spirit

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that allow it to defy everything its nearly 22 million inhabitants

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and Mother Nature can throw at it.

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There's no mistaking it now, Dan. We are in Mexico.

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-Whoo!

-Wahey!

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Mexico City sits right at the centre of the country it serves as capital,

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high on a plateau, at 2,240 metres above sea level.

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Founded on a lake that was drained by the Spanish conquistadors,

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the city exploded in the 20th century,

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spilling over from its historic core into a metropolitan area

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now stretching over nearly 1,000 square miles -

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the largest in the entire Western Hemisphere.

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We're splitting up to explore this epic sprawl.

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While Anita and Dan travel deeper into the city,

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I'm heading to the suburb of Neza

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to find out just how this city grew and grew and grew.

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Now, I've come here because this place

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has got a really fascinating history.

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Now, I've been told that all these colourful houses around here

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have been self-built, brick by brick, by the residents.

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I haven't been here that long,

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and this place is already giving off this really interesting vibe.

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Now, I'm going to meet one of the families that've been here

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since the early days,

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just to find out a little bit more about this place.

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If you need somewhere to live in Mexico City,

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you build it yourself.

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Incredibly, more than half the architecture here

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is built without regulations

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ensuring basic construction standards.

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-Hola.

-Hola. Buen dia.

-Buen dia.

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Hola. Benito...

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-VOICEOVER:

-Benito Perez and his mother-in-law, Gloria Lopez,

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have lived in this house for decades.

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IN SPANISH:

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In Mexico City, more than 60% of people

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live in areas known as colonias populares -

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informal, unregulated settlements.

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It's how Neza started.

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Oh, it's just amazing.

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I wouldn't know where to start when it comes to building a house.

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But, you know, these people, they're just so...

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They're so motivated.

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Wow.

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In this house, there's 22 people that live here,

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and four generations of their family,

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which is incredible.

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You know, it's like anywhere in the world, man -

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you want to make your house a castle, don't you?

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-VOICEOVER:

-I'm surprised to discover that the family

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don't just live here -

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Benito also runs his shoe business from the house.

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Look at that. He's just making a shoe...

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..right in front of my very eyes.

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-VOICEOVER:

-Benito tells me that businesses like his

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are a common feature in homes across the city.

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Households, they'll either be selling shoes,

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they'll be making something, and then they'll take it

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to the tianguis, the local market, the portable market,

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to earn money for their families.

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So the house is more than just a house.

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It's a business, it's everything for them.

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-VOICEOVER:

-I feel humbled that the family has invited me

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to stay for lunch.

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In Mexico, food is a serious business.

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-VOICEOVER:

-It's my chance to meet the rest of the family,

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including Benito's wife, Sandra.

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You're going to speak English to me, yes?

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Si. Poquito!

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THEY LAUGH

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-VOICEOVER:

-There's Grandad Bernabe, who built this house,

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Benito's daughter Lupita,

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and the rest of the family.

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This is really cool, actually, to have traditional Mexican food

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in a house that was built by this family.

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I mean, you can't get more authentic than that, can you?

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They're going to pray.

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-Amen.

-Aproveche.

-Gracias.

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Oh...!

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Si?

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-VOICEOVER:

-Benito wants to show me photos from the early 1970s,

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taken when Grandad Bernabe was building the house.

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THEY LAUGH

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Wow. Benito learned from his father-in-law.

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But his father-in-law learned from watching other people.

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That was it, you know. Just watched other people and decided,

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"I'm going to create this, my dream."

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It's incredible.

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Just 40 years ago, Neza was on the fringes of the sprawl.

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Now, more than 1 million people live here,

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and the settlement has been absorbed into Mexico City.

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It's a testament to the spirit of its citizens.

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Que paso? Que tal?

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It's a lot of character going on in this place.

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As people build houses further and further out,

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their journeys into work get longer and longer.

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I've been thrown in at the deep end,

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trying to figure out the daily commute.

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HORN BLARES

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All right, mate.

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Buses here are cheap and plentiful.

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In fact, this is one of the biggest bus systems in the world,

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but it's also a bit of a mystery.

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It's incredibly chaotic.

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I have no idea what's happening.

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But they're all going somewhere,

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and all the locals seem to know which one to get.

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These little buses are known as peseros.

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They got their name because they used to charge one peso -

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that's just 4p.

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They account for an incredible 60%

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of all journeys made by commuters every day.

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But there are no bus stops and no marked routes.

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How do you know? How do you know which one to get?

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Peseros are an unofficial system that's grown with demand.

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They're unregulated, unlicensed, and, crucially, unmapped.

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I'm going to need some help to find my way.

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-Hola, Christian.

-Hi.

-How are you doing?

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VOICEOVER: Enterprising Mexicans like Christian Guerrero

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are trying to bring order to the chaos.

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So, how do you know what bus you need to get?

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Well, mostly, you ask the people around.

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Like, either your family or your friends.

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So it's mostly, like, general knowledge in the population.

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-Local, Mexican City knowledge?

-Exactly.

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VOICEOVER: On average, Mexico City residents

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spend about two-and-a-half hours a day commuting...

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Thank you.

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..much of it on buses like this.

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And we're on.

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How many peseros are there in Mexico City?

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Around 50,000.

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-Yeah.

-50,000 of these buses?

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Yeah.

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It's getting busy. Coming on, ladies.

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VOICEOVER: Christian wants to modernise

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the 40-year-old pesero system

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and make it easier for passengers to use.

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He's developed a smartphone app

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that aims to map the entire network

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with the help of passengers riding the routes.

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The idea is that you would use your phone

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in order to, first of all, take a picture

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of the sign in the front of the bus,

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and that picture would tell us which route it was.

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So once you took the picture,

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you would use your GPS and start mapping.

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Do you know how many miles it covers?

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52,000km.

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So about 32,000 miles.

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-Yeah. Exactly.

-That's a lot.

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And it's an ongoing process.

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Yeah, it's growing and growing.

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It's a very smart solution -

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crowd-sourcing routes so they can be made available

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to anyone with a smartphone.

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This is a fusion of the old and the new.

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In 40, 50 years, nobody has done anything

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in order to let this system work correctly,

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so if we don't do anything, this city will stop moving.

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And you're having to come up with apps and solutions to improve it,

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-to bring into the 21st century.

-Yeah.

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The peseros are an integral part of Mexico City.

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They're typical of this place -

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an informal and slightly haphazard solution to an urban problem.

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Where else can you be serenaded while waiting for the bus home?

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I love Mexico.

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Standing on the side of a dual carriageway,

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these chaps get off and start serenading me.

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Yes, gentlemen. Muchas gracias.

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-Have a nice evening.

-Thank you so much.

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That was so wonderful, they were actually really good.

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Now which of these peseros do I get home?

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Do I get this one?

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I have no idea. No idea.

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Don't know where I am.

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While Anita gets lost on the buses,

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I'm off to discover what made this city great in the first place.

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This is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements

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in the Western Hemisphere.

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The modern city might be an assault on the senses,

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but you don't have to go far to see its ancient roots.

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Everything here in Mexico City is a product of its unique past,

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and there are places within the city where the past and the modern

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are all jumbled in right next to each other.

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Like here, modern apartment blocks, big, busy motorway,

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but right next to it is this astonishing historical site -

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the Place of the Three Cultures.

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And those three cultures are, in the middle, the remains

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of an old step pyramid from the Aztec period -

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the Aztecs, one of the great civilisations of world history.

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Then the Spanish arrived in the 16th century,

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they literally dismantled those temples

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and built churches like that right on top of them.

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What a statement of colonial control.

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And then there's modern buildings

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from Mexico's post-independence period as well.

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The Aztecs settled here because there was water.

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They built their capital, Tenochtitlan,

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on a small island in the Lake of Texcoco.

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When the Spaniards arrived, they destroyed the island city

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and started to drain the lake.

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Where once was water, there's now sprawl.

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But there's one corner of this modern megacity

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where you can truly experience its history,

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and it's worth getting up early for.

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I've come now to the most beautiful place,

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a very far cry from the noise and bustle of Mexico City.

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The mist is coming off the water

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and the farmers are working the fields.

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It's beautiful.

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This is Xochimilco.

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Not far from the heart of the modern city,

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this working landscape is an insight into Mexico City's watery past.

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Early settlers built this ingenious system.

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Artificial islands, known as chinampas,

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on which to grow their crops.

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-VOICEOVER:

-Lucio Usobiaga works with the farmers here

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to try and preserve the islands and their way of life.

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Did this used to extend right across the valley

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that Mexico City now sits in?

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Are we looking at the last remnants of these islands?

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Yeah, we are.

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In Mexico City, you know it's a basin,

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so it had five lakes.

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Right now, this is the last lake that we can really look at,

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and that it survives with some of its traditions.

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So this is the only place where you can come and get a feel

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for what life was like under the Aztecs?

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Yeah. Yeah, exactly.

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These chinampas were all made for agriculture.

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So they're all man-made?

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All man-made, yeah,

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more than a thousand years ago,

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even before the Aztecs came here and conquered the xochimilcas.

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Today, the chinampas are farmed as they've been for centuries,

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growing crops like maize, tomatoes and chilli peppers.

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This is lettuce.

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-VOICEOVER:

-Lucio is taking me to meet

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a fourth-generation chinampero, Noe Coquis.

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Today, he's planting radishes.

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Noe, are your kids doing this farming as well?

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Is another generation of farmers being made?

0:21:110:21:14

There'll be people farming here for generations to come.

0:21:250:21:28

I really admire Noe's efforts

0:21:380:21:40

to preserve the ancient farming methods.

0:21:400:21:42

But Lucio wants to show me how these chinampas are being threatened

0:21:440:21:48

by the rapidly sprawling city.

0:21:480:21:51

We've come into a part of the chinampas now

0:21:510:21:53

where we're seeing more houses.

0:21:530:21:54

This one here built right onto the edge of the river bank.

0:21:540:21:57

We can see illegal houses.

0:21:570:22:00

It is not permitted to build houses in this natural protected area,

0:22:000:22:05

but because of the housing demand,

0:22:050:22:08

some people have no other alternative but to build them here.

0:22:080:22:14

But this sums up the development of Mexico City over the centuries -

0:22:140:22:17

people just constantly looking for new grounds,

0:22:170:22:20

people moving here from elsewhere.

0:22:200:22:22

There's a density of population here

0:22:220:22:23

which means people need to find new ground to build.

0:22:230:22:26

So do you think, if we come back here in 20 years' time,

0:22:260:22:29

the chinampas may not be here?

0:22:290:22:31

Well, I am hoping that there will be enough efforts and resources

0:22:310:22:37

to prevent this from happening,

0:22:370:22:39

and instead of seeing more houses, we'll start to plant more chinampas.

0:22:390:22:44

Let's hope so.

0:22:440:22:45

Mexico City was founded on water.

0:22:500:22:53

The great irony is that, today, it now faces a water crisis.

0:22:530:22:58

The draining of the lake system has left the city thirsty.

0:23:000:23:03

It uses more water every day than any other city in the world.

0:23:040:23:09

Millions are forced to get their water from trucks

0:23:110:23:13

known as pipas, because they can't rely on the mains.

0:23:130:23:17

I've come to a pipa depot in the borough of Tlalpan

0:23:190:23:22

that sends out 200 trucks a day.

0:23:220:23:25

It's pouring with rain,

0:23:260:23:28

these trucks are filling up with gallons and gallons of water

0:23:280:23:31

that's been piped down from the mountains,

0:23:310:23:34

and they're going to be taken by these trucks

0:23:340:23:38

back up to the mountains to be sold to the people.

0:23:380:23:41

It's just crazy.

0:23:430:23:45

Me llamo Ade.

0:23:480:23:50

-VOICEOVER:

-Uriel Canalez has been delivering water

0:23:500:23:53

across the city for a few years.

0:23:530:23:55

I'm amazed at what a precious and high-risk commodity

0:24:170:24:20

water is in this city.

0:24:200:24:22

Especially in the poorer neighbourhoods

0:24:250:24:27

on the very edges of the sprawl.

0:24:270:24:29

-VOICEOVER:

-I've come to meet Rogelio Ramirez and his wife Sofia.

0:24:310:24:35

They live in an area where water tankers are essential.

0:24:370:24:40

I'm really surprised at the drastic measures

0:25:180:25:21

that Rogelio has to take just to get the water that his family needs.

0:25:210:25:25

Uh-huh.

0:25:290:25:30

Yeah, it's just starting to rain.

0:25:390:25:41

It's getting a little bit heavier and it's a good sign.

0:25:410:25:44

This untreated water will be stored in a tank.

0:25:460:25:49

The family won't drink it, but they do put it to good use.

0:25:490:25:54

Wow, wow.

0:26:210:26:22

Not a single drop of water is wasted.

0:26:250:26:28

Families here can spend as much as 20% of their income on water.

0:26:420:26:47

It's not that it doesn't rain here - it's just most of it is wasted.

0:26:490:26:54

-VOICEOVER:

-Enrique Lomnitz is working to find

0:26:570:27:00

an affordable solution for everyone.

0:27:000:27:02

These are, kind of, the forgotten people

0:27:030:27:06

of the water situation in Mexico.

0:27:060:27:07

Even though we're talking about millions of people.

0:27:070:27:10

But that's crazy, when you get so much water in this area

0:27:100:27:13

and you're in a city that has problems with water,

0:27:130:27:17

why not use it?

0:27:170:27:18

That's what we said.

0:27:180:27:20

So we were like...

0:27:200:27:21

It seemed to us like it was just a really obvious thing to do.

0:27:210:27:25

So harvesting rainwater involves channelling the water

0:27:250:27:28

that falls on your roof, with gutters or whatever,

0:27:280:27:31

and putting it through some kind of treatment, and storing it.

0:27:310:27:34

-VOICEOVER:

-Enrique has been helping to install water capture systems

0:27:350:27:39

in Tlalpan for the past seven years.

0:27:390:27:41

Hola, hola.

0:27:430:27:45

-VOICEOVER:

-He's taken me to meet Eusebia Ventura.

0:27:450:27:48

Like most of the people living on the edge of Mexico City,

0:27:480:27:51

she has built her own home.

0:27:510:27:53

So this is a 5,000-litre tank, and we put, as part of the project,

0:27:530:27:57

the tank that's inside,

0:27:570:27:59

and as she's grown the house, she's connected more roof,

0:27:590:28:03

so now she has three rainwater harvesting systems.

0:28:030:28:05

I'm pleased to hear that this system is already saving Eusebia money.

0:28:070:28:11

So she makes something like 1,000 pesos a month

0:28:230:28:25

and it would cost her 800 pesos to fill this.

0:28:250:28:27

Whoa, here we go.

0:28:370:28:39

Eusebia now captures and filters

0:28:390:28:42

70,000 litres of rainwater every year.

0:28:420:28:46

I want to taste the water from the sky.

0:28:460:28:49

-Well, it looks clear.

-Yep.

-That looks clean to me.

0:28:490:28:52

Yeah.

0:28:520:28:53

So here's a glass of pure rainwater.

0:28:540:28:57

Yes.

0:28:570:28:58

And, you know, clean water in these areas is scarce

0:28:580:29:02

and becoming a more scarce resource, no?

0:29:020:29:04

-So it's like gold dust.

-Yeah.

0:29:040:29:06

It's perfectly clean water.

0:29:080:29:10

Muy bien.

0:29:100:29:12

Gracias.

0:29:120:29:13

It's fantastic.

0:29:130:29:14

-Si?

-I'm so impressed.

0:29:140:29:16

I am.

0:29:160:29:17

Getting water into this megacity is one problem,

0:29:210:29:24

but getting rid of it is quite another.

0:29:240:29:27

I've come to Ecatepec to see a system

0:29:290:29:31

that deals with one of Mexico City's dirtiest secrets.

0:29:310:29:35

This is known as "agua negra" or black water.

0:29:360:29:40

It's sewage waste water.

0:29:400:29:42

And these days, it flows through a largely open sewer

0:29:440:29:46

called the Grand Canal.

0:29:460:29:48

VOICEOVER: Today, Carlos Teran and his team

0:29:500:29:52

are cleaning the filters that keep the sewage flowing.

0:29:520:29:55

I have no idea what pressing this button will dredge up.

0:29:590:30:03

SHE EXCLAIMS

0:30:040:30:06

Holy crap!

0:30:080:30:10

It's a sofa.

0:30:100:30:12

I mean, this is horrific.

0:30:130:30:15

There's a whole dashboard here.

0:30:150:30:16

Yeah. I mean, it's horrendous,

0:30:180:30:21

but a vital part of any city, waste management.

0:30:210:30:25

It's grim,

0:30:250:30:27

but this is the reality of humans.

0:30:270:30:29

That poor guy.

0:30:310:30:33

This is one of 94 pumping stations

0:30:360:30:40

along 7,000 miles of tunnels and pipes

0:30:400:30:42

that form Mexico City's sewage system.

0:30:420:30:45

The Grand Canal is now more than 100 years old.

0:30:470:30:51

It used to flow downhill,

0:30:510:30:53

using gravity to carry waste out of the city for treatment.

0:30:530:30:57

But when Mexico City was drained,

0:30:570:30:59

the clay lake bed started to collapse,

0:30:590:31:02

forcing the canal up, not down.

0:31:020:31:05

Engineers now battle gravity to pump the agua negra uphill,

0:31:050:31:10

using pumping stations like this one.

0:31:100:31:13

Parts of the city have sunk an astonishing 40 feet

0:31:130:31:16

in the last century.

0:31:160:31:18

These pumps have to work hard.

0:31:180:31:21

So, Carlos, this is crucial, this is a crucial point.

0:31:210:31:24

So if this didn't work, within three hours,

0:31:360:31:39

the city would start to flood.

0:31:390:31:41

The pumps are just a sticking plaster

0:31:430:31:46

on Mexico City's sewage crisis.

0:31:460:31:48

The Grand Canal was not designed to deal

0:31:480:31:50

with the waste produced by nearly 22 million people

0:31:500:31:54

in an ever-expanding megalopolis.

0:31:540:31:57

So Mexico City is building big to solve its problem.

0:31:570:32:02

This is the Emisor Oriente.

0:32:020:32:05

It's an immense new waste water tunnel.

0:32:050:32:08

What they're doing now is lowering the outer rings of the tunnel...

0:32:080:32:12

..and each one of those weighs five tonnes,

0:32:130:32:17

and it takes eight of them to build the entire outer wall,

0:32:170:32:21

so that's 40 tonnes.

0:32:210:32:23

This is serious engineering.

0:32:230:32:25

This is it, we are descending 110 metres.

0:32:320:32:34

And this lift is actually going a lot faster

0:32:360:32:38

than I thought it would.

0:32:380:32:40

This is like the journey to the centre of the Earth.

0:32:400:32:43

Incredible!

0:32:450:32:46

It's like we've entered the underworld.

0:32:480:32:50

It's a lot darker, a lot cooler and there's a whole system at play here.

0:32:500:32:57

Hola, Jose.

0:32:570:32:58

-Hola, Anita.

-Yes.

0:32:580:33:00

VOICEOVER: Jose Lee Espinoza is the engineer in charge of this,

0:33:000:33:03

one of Mexico City's biggest engineering projects.

0:33:030:33:07

That was quite a descent.

0:33:070:33:08

-Yes.

-We are very, very deep...

0:33:080:33:12

-Yes.

-..in this enormous tunnel.

0:33:120:33:14

How many miles long is it going to be?

0:33:140:33:15

More or less, 64km from Mexico City to the treatment plant.

0:33:150:33:22

This is going to be one of the biggest tunnels in the world

0:33:220:33:25

-when it's finished.

-Yes, yes, I think so.

0:33:250:33:27

We're making our way towards the front of the tunnel,

0:33:290:33:31

where they're still drilling through solid rock.

0:33:310:33:35

All of Mexico City's sewage and overflow of rainwater

0:33:350:33:40

will be gushing through this enormous tunnel

0:33:400:33:43

right where we are now.

0:33:430:33:45

That's quite a thought!

0:33:450:33:46

This new tunnel won't sink like the Grand Canal,

0:33:480:33:51

because it's drilled so deep through hard rock.

0:33:510:33:54

In fact, it will actually help Mexico City's sinking problem

0:33:540:33:58

by stabilising the groundwater beneath the city.

0:33:580:34:02

Finally, we reach the very front of the tunnel,

0:34:030:34:06

as close as we can get to the huge drill

0:34:060:34:09

that's boring the hole.

0:34:090:34:11

The drill is just up ahead of us,

0:34:110:34:12

it's nine metres in diameter

0:34:120:34:14

and it's crunching away at the earth,

0:34:140:34:17

getting rid of all those rocks.

0:34:170:34:19

And as they're making space,

0:34:190:34:21

they're laying those big chunks of concrete

0:34:210:34:25

that go towards making the tunnel.

0:34:250:34:27

How many kilometres are left to finish the whole tunnel?

0:34:270:34:31

-4km.

-4km left to do?

0:34:310:34:34

-Yes.

-And that will take how long?

0:34:340:34:35

-Ten months.

-In ten months,

0:34:350:34:37

Mexico City will have its new massive sewage pipe.

0:34:370:34:44

Yes.

0:34:440:34:46

The more time you spend in this city,

0:34:510:34:54

the more you realise how amazingly it fights Nature at every turn.

0:34:540:34:58

Look at this extraordinary buildings here.

0:34:580:35:01

Over the years, it's slowly subsiding at different speeds

0:35:010:35:04

because the Spanish messed about with this place so much.

0:35:040:35:07

They pumped out the groundwater, they reclaimed land for building,

0:35:070:35:10

and, as a result, it's on very uncertain foundations.

0:35:100:35:13

Check out that one there - that is leaning quite heavily over.

0:35:200:35:23

It's all a bit haphazard.

0:35:230:35:24

This subsidence has damaged the water and sewerage system.

0:35:260:35:31

And it has another potentially deadly cost.

0:35:320:35:36

Draining the lakes has dangerously changed the geology of Mexico City,

0:35:360:35:41

leaving it vulnerable to earthquakes.

0:35:410:35:43

Some of the most important parts

0:35:430:35:46

of one of the biggest cities in the world

0:35:460:35:48

now sit on a quivering pile of mud.

0:35:480:35:52

The city is actually 200 miles from the nearest fault line

0:35:520:35:56

off the Pacific coast,

0:35:560:35:57

but the drained lake bed acts as an amplifier -

0:35:570:36:00

seismic waves ripple and build as if shaking a bowl of jelly.

0:36:000:36:05

Most cities have emergency services -

0:36:060:36:08

police, ambulance and fire - but if you live here,

0:36:080:36:12

you also need a 24-hour specialist search and rescue team...

0:36:120:36:15

..like this elite unit.

0:36:170:36:19

They're part of the Mexico City Police Force.

0:36:190:36:21

They train every week, and today, they've agreed to show me

0:36:230:36:27

how it's done.

0:36:270:36:28

This is it. My childhood dream's come true.

0:36:280:36:32

I'm going to get to pretend I'm a policeman for a minute.

0:36:320:36:35

OK. Ready.

0:36:380:36:39

Yeah.

0:36:390:36:40

Right. Good.

0:36:420:36:44

-VOICEOVER:

-After an earthquake hits,

0:36:440:36:46

it's critical to get victims out of collapsed buildings

0:36:460:36:48

as quickly as possible.

0:36:480:36:50

The team use drills to create a weak point in the wall,

0:36:500:36:53

but then it's down to sheer brute force.

0:36:530:36:56

That is exhausting. OK.

0:37:000:37:03

-VOICEOVER:

-I think it's time to hand over to a professional.

0:37:030:37:06

Nice.

0:37:180:37:19

That does give you a little bit of a sense

0:37:190:37:21

of what it is like doing search and rescue in a huge city

0:37:210:37:26

where you may have to do that time and time again,

0:37:260:37:28

there's no end to the amount of buildings

0:37:280:37:30

that could collapse, trapping people.

0:37:300:37:32

The residents of the city have good reason to be fearful of earthquakes.

0:37:340:37:38

In the early hours of the 19th of September 1985,

0:37:410:37:45

Mexico City was devastated by a massive 8.1 magnitude earthquake.

0:37:450:37:50

In just over a minute, around 100,000 houses were destroyed

0:37:510:37:56

and 5 million residents were left without electricity

0:37:560:38:00

or drinking water.

0:38:000:38:01

Around 10,000 people were killed.

0:38:010:38:05

It's very clear that the 1985 earthquake

0:38:070:38:09

cast a long shadow.

0:38:090:38:11

They don't want that to happen again, they're not going to let

0:38:110:38:13

their fellow citizens suffer like that again,

0:38:130:38:15

so they've got the tools, they've got the training,

0:38:150:38:18

and they've got the techniques.

0:38:180:38:20

I'm not sure I'd cut it on their team.

0:38:200:38:22

Rescue teams are Mexico City's last line of defence.

0:38:240:38:28

But that's not all.

0:38:290:38:31

In a city where millions live in self-built houses,

0:38:310:38:35

they've also developed

0:38:350:38:36

the most effective early warning system in the world.

0:38:360:38:40

It buys people crucial time to evacuate.

0:38:400:38:43

I've come to the National Seismological Service

0:38:450:38:48

at Unam, the National Autonomous University of Mexico,

0:38:480:38:52

to meet Dr Xyoli Perez-Campos.

0:38:520:38:55

How far down are we going?

0:38:550:38:57

We are going to go 20 metres down.

0:38:570:38:59

20 metres, OK.

0:38:590:39:01

At the bottom of this shaft are highly advanced seismic sensors.

0:39:020:39:06

These are the latest technology

0:39:070:39:10

and the most precise instrument in the world.

0:39:100:39:14

They're part of a network of more than 150 sensors

0:39:140:39:18

constantly monitoring the Earth for tremors.

0:39:180:39:21

Did this detect Haiti? Did it detect Pakistan?

0:39:210:39:24

Yes. Like Japan, 2011.

0:39:240:39:26

Isn't that amazing?

0:39:260:39:27

That something that's happening on the other side of the planet

0:39:270:39:30

can be detected here in Mexico City.

0:39:300:39:32

The tremors picked up by the sensors

0:39:340:39:35

are monitored right here at the University.

0:39:350:39:38

We report daily an average of 32 earthquakes per day.

0:39:380:39:43

Hang on a minute - 32 earthquakes every day on average?

0:39:430:39:48

-Yes, yes.

-That's a huge figure.

0:39:480:39:50

Most earthquakes are small tremors that few people notice.

0:39:520:39:56

But when a bigger quake strikes, the early warning system kicks in.

0:39:560:40:00

With the main fault line 200 miles away,

0:40:030:40:06

this technology gives more than a minute's warning

0:40:060:40:09

before the shock waves actually hit.

0:40:090:40:11

It's a system that saves lives.

0:40:140:40:17

So you'll have detected one today?

0:40:170:40:18

Yes - actually, this morning, we have a big one.

0:40:180:40:23

It had a magnitude of 5.6 and we can see the record on the screens.

0:40:230:40:28

It happens off the coast of the country,

0:40:280:40:31

so it was in the Pacific, so nobody felt it.

0:40:310:40:34

When do you think the next earthquake will hit here?

0:40:340:40:36

Well, today, we will have one, but a small one, of course.

0:40:360:40:39

We don't know if a big one is going to happen

0:40:390:40:41

or when it's going to happen.

0:40:410:40:43

The more we explore this city,

0:40:490:40:51

the more we're learning it works because it doesn't live in fear.

0:40:510:40:55

Its streets positively brim with life.

0:40:570:41:00

That optimism underpins big plans for the future.

0:41:000:41:04

The sprawl can't go on forever...

0:41:050:41:07

..so there's only one way to build,

0:41:080:41:10

and that's up.

0:41:100:41:12

But how do you build a skyscraper

0:41:140:41:16

on an unstable lakebed in an earthquake zone?

0:41:160:41:20

This is the Torre Reforma.

0:41:220:41:24

Standing 256 metres and 57 storeys high,

0:41:260:41:30

it's Mexico City's tallest building.

0:41:300:41:32

-Hello.

-Welcome.

0:41:340:41:36

-VOICEOVER:

-Its architect, Benjamin Romano,

0:41:360:41:38

is here to show me the secrets

0:41:380:41:40

behind this incredible feat of engineering.

0:41:400:41:42

Embedded in the concrete slab,

0:41:440:41:46

we have this connection that goes to the edges of the concrete wall,

0:41:460:41:51

so in the case of an earthquake,

0:41:510:41:54

these elements will control the building not to move

0:41:540:41:58

where the building doesn't want to move.

0:41:580:42:02

-So it lets it flex a bit, but not too far.

-Exactly.

0:42:020:42:08

In sinking the foundations of the skyscraper,

0:42:100:42:13

Benjamin needed to take into account the city's waterlogged past.

0:42:130:42:16

Those concrete walls are embedded 60 metres underneath the street.

0:42:180:42:23

-So you've gone below the lakebed, all the way down?

-Exactly.

0:42:230:42:27

So for us, the earthquake issue because of the lake means nothing.

0:42:270:42:31

Now that I've seen this, I'm feeling more confident

0:42:310:42:33

about going up Mexico City's tallest building.

0:42:330:42:36

I think, even if there's an earthquake, we're going to be fine.

0:42:360:42:38

-You are going to be perfectly safe.

-OK.

0:42:380:42:40

There are 28 lifts serving more than 4,000 people.

0:42:430:42:47

Everything in this cutting-edge building

0:42:470:42:50

is designed not only for looks, but also for safety.

0:42:500:42:55

So, Benjamin, these windows are a very unusual shape.

0:42:550:42:59

Yes. Since they have to behave in case of an earthquake,

0:42:590:43:03

these window needs to move 10cm.

0:43:030:43:07

The windows in this building

0:43:070:43:09

are designed to bend and flex during an earthquake

0:43:090:43:11

to release the build-up of pressure.

0:43:110:43:13

So this is like leaving a ready-made crack in the side of a building?

0:43:150:43:18

Yes, exactly. It's to allow the two different elements to move.

0:43:180:43:23

It's so strange talking about high-rise buildings moving,

0:43:230:43:27

because from the ground, they look so static and strong,

0:43:270:43:31

and here you are, telling me that they're always in movement.

0:43:310:43:34

They all have to move, because either for wind or seismic...

0:43:340:43:38

It's like if I push you -

0:43:380:43:40

they will move and come back to the natural.

0:43:400:43:43

This iconic building, now punctuating the skyline,

0:43:460:43:50

looks to the future of Mexico City.

0:43:500:43:52

It's earthquake resistant,

0:43:520:43:54

it has its own rain and waste water harvesting system,

0:43:540:43:58

and it even has robots that will park your car for you.

0:43:580:44:02

-VOICEOVER:

-On top of all that, it has quite a view.

0:44:020:44:06

I mean, I'm almost speechless at how big Mexico City is.

0:44:100:44:13

I mean, from up here, it just stretches...

0:44:130:44:15

-Well, it stretches as far as the eye can see.

-Yes.

0:44:150:44:18

Did you ever think you'd be responsible

0:44:180:44:20

for the tallest building in Mexico?

0:44:200:44:21

Never in my life.

0:44:210:44:22

It is a very unique feeling. So far, I'm very happy.

0:44:220:44:28

Standing here on top of the tallest building in Mexico City,

0:44:300:44:33

I'm in awe of what Benjamin and his team have achieved.

0:44:330:44:36

Their ingenuity has overcome so many hurdles

0:44:360:44:39

placed in their way by nature,

0:44:390:44:40

and if Mexico City represents a battle

0:44:400:44:44

between human habitation and nature,

0:44:440:44:47

this is a war-winning strategy.

0:44:470:44:49

Building for the future here doesn't stop at skyscrapers.

0:44:540:44:58

Getting 22 million people in and out of the crowded city every day

0:44:590:45:04

is a challenge, especially with its haphazard bus service.

0:45:040:45:08

But I've come to the suburb of Ecatepec

0:45:110:45:13

to discover that almost anything can be built

0:45:130:45:16

in this spirited city.

0:45:160:45:18

Well, wow, look at this -

0:45:190:45:21

it's just like everything else here in Mexico City,

0:45:210:45:23

a big surprise.

0:45:230:45:25

The last thing I was expecting to find here is a cable car.

0:45:250:45:28

It's accessible as well.

0:45:300:45:31

There's a wheelchair entrance, there's a ramp -

0:45:310:45:34

I'm loving it already.

0:45:340:45:36

The views from the Mexicable,

0:45:510:45:53

you've got this sprawling city and these murals

0:45:530:45:57

and the amazing colours on the houses.

0:45:570:46:00

It's just breathtaking.

0:46:000:46:02

This cable car system was only completed in 2016.

0:46:080:46:12

It costs just six pesos, or 26p, to ride,

0:46:120:46:17

and already, nearly 30,000 people are using it every day.

0:46:170:46:21

-VOICEOVER:

-Victor Jasso is the engineer

0:46:240:46:27

who keeps the system running smoothly.

0:46:270:46:29

So, Victor, why build it here and why build it now?

0:46:290:46:33

Because this area has a really big problem.

0:46:330:46:36

There's not too much roads, there are not so much highways,

0:46:360:46:41

so we have a lot of people living here,

0:46:410:46:44

so a cable car, it's totally a solution.

0:46:440:46:47

You don't have a stoplight, you don't have traffic.

0:46:470:46:51

So now they're more connected...

0:46:510:46:53

Yes, yes, that's the word, connected.

0:46:530:46:56

Can you tell me about the mechanics? What goes into this?

0:46:560:47:00

Cos it looks like an enormous engineering feat.

0:47:000:47:04

This cable car is moved by an engine.

0:47:040:47:07

The engine is the big red one over the station,

0:47:070:47:10

and with that engine, we move the whole loop

0:47:100:47:13

between station four to station one.

0:47:130:47:15

The one engine moves all of these cars across four stations?

0:47:150:47:19

-Yes.

-Wow.

0:47:190:47:21

There are seven cable car stations in total,

0:47:230:47:26

running just over three miles,

0:47:260:47:28

connecting some of the city's poorest

0:47:280:47:30

and most isolated hillside neighbourhoods.

0:47:300:47:32

The system is run from control rooms like this.

0:47:340:47:38

With this button, we can reduce the speed,

0:47:380:47:41

because sometimes, we have some people

0:47:410:47:43

that maybe need more assistance.

0:47:430:47:47

Actually, we've got a wheelchair customer,

0:47:470:47:49

do you need to slow it down?

0:47:490:47:50

Yeah. Just put it in lento uno.

0:47:500:47:53

-Speed...

-The speed reduces...

-So it makes it slower?

0:47:530:47:56

-Yeah.

-And this now allows this lady in a wheelchair to get in easier?

0:47:560:48:00

Yes.

0:48:000:48:01

-VOICEOVER:

-This technology is really unexpected.

0:48:030:48:06

It looks like it's quite easy for him to pull.

0:48:060:48:08

Yeah, and it's really, really easy for pushing.

0:48:080:48:10

You know, it's amazing, the cabin, it's one tonne.

0:48:100:48:14

So this is a tonne and we can just push it?

0:48:140:48:16

-Yeah.

-Wow, that is so easy!

0:48:160:48:19

Look at that, one finger. Look at that!

0:48:190:48:22

That's incredible.

0:48:240:48:25

That system is so smooth.

0:48:260:48:28

I need that for my wheels on my chair.

0:48:280:48:32

This all makes for a very different commute for local residents.

0:48:330:48:37

-Hola.

-Hola, buenos dias.

-Buenos dias.

-Como estas?

0:48:380:48:41

-VOICEOVER:

-Daniel Gimelo is a shoe shiner.

0:48:410:48:43

Every day, he travels on the cable car with his bike,

0:48:430:48:46

then cycles the rest of the way into the centre to find work.

0:48:460:48:50

It's morning rush hour and commuters like Daniel

0:49:210:49:24

are flooding onto the cable car to get to work.

0:49:240:49:27

But it doesn't just save them time.

0:49:270:49:29

Juan Martinez Jurado uses the cable car every day.

0:49:290:49:34

This new public transport system

0:50:240:50:26

hasn't just improved the commute for locals -

0:50:260:50:28

it's also transformed the surrounding neighbourhood.

0:50:280:50:32

It's incredible, it's almost like this Mexicable

0:50:320:50:35

has given this whole area a face-lift.

0:50:350:50:37

All of these images and paintings have just sprung up

0:50:380:50:42

because of the Mexicable.

0:50:420:50:44

And what it's done is it's just lifted the ambiance

0:50:440:50:47

of this whole area.

0:50:470:50:49

It's just made it really beautiful,

0:50:490:50:50

and it's such a nice way to get to work, I think.

0:50:500:50:53

There's a feeling all across Mexico City

0:51:010:51:04

that it's cleaning up its act.

0:51:040:51:05

And not a moment too soon,

0:51:080:51:10

because Mexico and its capital have a poor reputation for crime.

0:51:100:51:14

To find out how this city polices

0:51:160:51:18

a sprawl of almost 1,000 square miles,

0:51:180:51:22

I'm taking to the air.

0:51:220:51:23

Well, we're just about to take off, now, the aircraft is warming up.

0:51:270:51:30

We are going in the Mexico City police observation helicopter.

0:51:300:51:34

This is the key to making sure that a relatively small police force

0:51:340:51:37

is able to maintain law and order in this vast and complicated city.

0:51:370:51:40

It's using the eye in the sky, linked to the ground technology.

0:51:400:51:45

In Mexico City, there are almost 90,000 police officers.

0:51:500:51:55

Officer Carlos Moreno is a specialist camera operator

0:51:550:51:58

who works the skies in one of 13 helicopters.

0:51:580:52:02

How hard is it to keep order in a city of over 20 million people?

0:52:020:52:08

So difficult.

0:52:080:52:09

As you see, it's really big.

0:52:090:52:11

But we have excellent communication with ground units.

0:52:110:52:16

We got, also, all the time,

0:52:160:52:18

one helicopter flying around the city.

0:52:180:52:20

We can cross the city in five minutes.

0:52:200:52:23

With this technology, Carlos can home in on one target

0:52:250:52:29

in a city of millions.

0:52:290:52:31

I'm going to show you how we follow a car.

0:52:310:52:34

We can follow automatically.

0:52:340:52:37

I don't have to move anything.

0:52:370:52:39

That's clever, so you can track a target.

0:52:390:52:41

Once you lock onto it, yeah.

0:52:410:52:43

How much closer can you go?

0:52:430:52:45

Could you read the license plate on there?

0:52:450:52:46

We are going to try.

0:52:460:52:48

That's astonishing.

0:52:510:52:52

-Yeah.

-You can see right into the back of his vehicle.

0:52:520:52:55

Yeah, exactly.

0:52:550:52:57

-VOICEOVER:

-The police can track suspects

0:52:570:52:59

all the way across this huge city.

0:52:590:53:01

Down is down, up is up, left and right, it's the same.

0:53:020:53:05

-And you zoom in like this?

-And you're going to follow...

0:53:050:53:07

That's incredible.

0:53:070:53:09

I feel like I'm going to crash into that building!

0:53:090:53:12

Air units like this allow the police to stay one step ahead.

0:53:160:53:20

This is a sprawl that spreads as far as I can see in all directions.

0:53:240:53:30

It would take hundreds of thousands of policemen and women on the ground

0:53:300:53:33

to maintain control,

0:53:330:53:34

but, by using this, you can use those other resources

0:53:340:53:38

far more efficiently.

0:53:380:53:40

Technology like this is an essential ingredient

0:53:400:53:43

if these modern megacities are to be sustainable and safe.

0:53:430:53:46

While Dan avoids the traffic in the sky,

0:53:510:53:53

I'm in the thick of it on the ground.

0:53:530:53:56

Monday morning rush-hour traffic in Mexico City,

0:54:000:54:04

but it's not as bad as it normally is,

0:54:040:54:06

because the smog levels have been so high this week.

0:54:060:54:10

In fact, the highest smog levels recorded in the last 20 years.

0:54:100:54:15

HORN BLARES It's all happening here.

0:54:150:54:17

Get it into gear, mate.

0:54:170:54:18

And off he goes.

0:54:200:54:21

The smog levels are so high that the authorities take measures

0:54:210:54:25

to reduce the number of cars on the road,

0:54:250:54:27

so even though this looks insane,

0:54:270:54:29

it's not half as bad as it normally is.

0:54:290:54:31

But something is changing here.

0:54:380:54:41

Take a walk around the streets nearby

0:54:410:54:43

and the atmosphere becomes noticeably calmer.

0:54:430:54:46

Pimped.

0:54:480:54:49

This is Paseo de la Reforma,

0:54:520:54:55

a wide avenue running diagonally across the heart of Mexico City.

0:54:550:55:00

It's usually full of cars, but not today.

0:55:000:55:03

-Hola, Areli.

-Hola.

-Lovely to meet you.

0:55:030:55:06

VOICEOVER: Areli Carreon is a cycling enthusiast and campaigner.

0:55:060:55:10

She's also Mexico City's first-ever bike mayor.

0:55:100:55:13

I'm totally blown away by what's happening.

0:55:130:55:16

-Tell me, it's a Sunday morning.

-Yes.

-What is this?

0:55:160:55:19

Is this a one-off event?

0:55:190:55:20

No, it happens every Sunday,

0:55:200:55:22

and it's a close-down of a main street in Mexico City.

0:55:220:55:26

This is Reforma, one of the most historical

0:55:260:55:29

and most iconic streets in the city.

0:55:290:55:32

-This is like shutting down the Champs-Elysees.

-Yes.

0:55:320:55:35

There's, like, 50,000 people

0:55:350:55:37

and, as you can see, there's people from all walks of life here

0:55:370:55:41

enjoying the city.

0:55:410:55:42

-Somebody's listening to their music whilst they're cycling.

-Yeah.

0:55:420:55:45

Oh, it's not just a little bit, he's got a massive ghetto blaster.

0:55:450:55:49

Yeah. Look at that.

0:55:490:55:51

All of this cycling is yet another way

0:55:530:55:55

this massive megacity is cleaning up its act.

0:55:550:55:59

Mexico City has, like most major cities,

0:55:590:56:01

a real problem with pollution, doesn't it?

0:56:010:56:03

Yeah, of course. The average speed in the city on a car

0:56:030:56:06

is the same as bicycling, it's 15kmph, which is insane.

0:56:060:56:10

If we don't do something about this,

0:56:100:56:13

eventually, we wouldn't have enough clean air to breathe.

0:56:130:56:16

This city loves to live life on its streets.

0:56:190:56:22

That's amazing, look - he's got Grandma on the front,

0:56:220:56:25

baby on the back, maybe that's his grandson.

0:56:250:56:27

One of the things that I like the best

0:56:270:56:29

is it doesn't matter who you are, which is your walk of life,

0:56:290:56:33

people get to be together and enjoy

0:56:330:56:36

and have a conversation and just be around.

0:56:360:56:39

Well, I feel like you're telling me to get on this bike.

0:56:420:56:44

I feel like, subliminally, you're just like,

0:56:440:56:46

-"Anita, I've got you a bike."

-Let's go!

-"Get on."

0:56:460:56:49

-Shall we?

-Yes.

-I feel like we should join everybody.

0:56:490:56:52

Let's go.

0:56:520:56:54

Whee-hee!

0:56:540:56:55

Oh, it's great fun.

0:57:000:57:01

It's such a brilliant way to see the city as well.

0:57:030:57:05

What a great bit of progressive civic planning,

0:57:120:57:15

cos at the heart of every city are its people,

0:57:150:57:17

so let the people take over the streets.

0:57:170:57:19

On top of that, it's great fun.

0:57:190:57:21

BELL RINGS

0:57:210:57:23

Mexico City is full of surprises.

0:57:270:57:31

This is a city where cars are giving way to bicycles...

0:57:320:57:35

..where cutting-edge cable cars

0:57:370:57:39

glide over self-built neighbourhoods...

0:57:390:57:41

..where sprawl meets skyscrapers.

0:57:430:57:45

It may be fighting a daily battle with Nature,

0:57:470:57:50

but it's a fight that its enterprising, optimistic

0:57:500:57:54

and resilient citizens are determined to win.

0:57:540:57:57

Next time...we're in Moscow...

0:58:010:58:04

Muscovites everywhere.

0:58:040:58:05

..exploring a city forged by power and politics,

0:58:050:58:10

that plays by its own rules.

0:58:100:58:12

I've never been allowed inside the red walls of the Kremlin before.

0:58:140:58:19

Uncovering the systems and traditions...

0:58:190:58:22

Are you on time?

0:58:220:58:23

Honestly, I'm three hours late.

0:58:230:58:26

..that make this one of the world's busiest cities.

0:58:260:58:30

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