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Tom Herbert's a baker. | 0:00:06 | 0:00:08 | |
His family have been baking bread in Gloucestershire for five generations. | 0:00:16 | 0:00:20 | |
Morning. | 0:00:22 | 0:00:25 | |
Last year, Tom baked the loaf that won first prize at the National Organic Food awards. | 0:00:27 | 0:00:35 | |
This year, he's determined to win it again. | 0:00:35 | 0:00:38 | |
A whole host of people want to win this competition. | 0:00:38 | 0:00:41 | |
But not as much as me. | 0:00:41 | 0:00:43 | |
And Tom wants to do more than just win the award. | 0:00:43 | 0:00:47 | |
He's passionate about hand-made bread. | 0:00:47 | 0:00:50 | |
98 per cent of bread consumed in this country comes from several large factories that | 0:00:52 | 0:00:59 | |
make stuff that doesn't deserve to call itself bread. There's a whole | 0:00:59 | 0:01:04 | |
new generation of customers and consumers | 0:01:04 | 0:01:06 | |
and people that have only been used to this plastic-wrapped pap. | 0:01:06 | 0:01:12 | |
When you open the bag it smells of vinegar. What's that about? | 0:01:12 | 0:01:15 | |
It's about making sure that more people have a choice. | 0:01:15 | 0:01:18 | |
More people need to understand that this stuff is life-enhancing. | 0:01:18 | 0:01:23 | |
This should be people's birthright. | 0:01:23 | 0:01:25 | |
It smells so good. | 0:01:27 | 0:01:28 | |
On his quest, Tom will find out how one group of people | 0:01:32 | 0:01:35 | |
has kept bread at the heart of their lives for generations. | 0:01:35 | 0:01:39 | |
He'll hunt out the right ingredients. | 0:01:42 | 0:01:46 | |
-To touch it it's like silk. -Isn't that beautiful? | 0:01:46 | 0:01:49 | |
And find out whether the judges think he's succeeded. | 0:01:49 | 0:01:53 | |
Actually, it is quite sour, isn't it? | 0:01:53 | 0:01:55 | |
If he does it, Tom will have created his perfect loaf. | 0:01:55 | 0:02:00 | |
Tom Herbert's family bakery has been producing hand-crafted bread in the Cotswolds for almost a century. | 0:02:17 | 0:02:25 | |
As a child, he learned how to bake with his father and grandfather, | 0:02:27 | 0:02:30 | |
and at 16 he started an apprenticeship to become a master baker. | 0:02:30 | 0:02:36 | |
This is without doubt the best toast in the world. | 0:02:42 | 0:02:45 | |
It's made from overnight dough. | 0:02:45 | 0:02:49 | |
It's made to the same recipe as my great-grandfather used. | 0:02:49 | 0:02:52 | |
This is his bakery just outside Cirencester. | 0:02:52 | 0:02:56 | |
It's called overnight dough because the dough is left in great big bins, just like these ones. | 0:02:56 | 0:03:01 | |
He'd sleep on top of it, and long before the cock crowed | 0:03:01 | 0:03:05 | |
the dough would rise, tip him off, he'd get up, start baking. | 0:03:05 | 0:03:08 | |
Tom has two months come up with a brand-new recipe for the competition. | 0:03:11 | 0:03:15 | |
But he also wants his loaf to get the public's vote. | 0:03:15 | 0:03:19 | |
# I ain't no baker | 0:03:22 | 0:03:25 | |
# But I know how to bake... # | 0:03:27 | 0:03:30 | |
Excuse me. What's your idea of a perfect loaf? | 0:03:33 | 0:03:36 | |
A perfect loaf of bread? | 0:03:36 | 0:03:37 | |
-Yeah. -Something where you know what's in it. -OK. | 0:03:37 | 0:03:39 | |
Excuse me. What's your idea of a perfect loaf? | 0:03:44 | 0:03:46 | |
-A perfect loaf? -Yeah. -Fresh, soft, | 0:03:46 | 0:03:50 | |
with just a nice kind of bit of a salty taste to it. | 0:03:50 | 0:03:55 | |
-Brown, white? -I like white but I can eat some browns, like granary. | 0:03:55 | 0:03:59 | |
Do you ever make your own? | 0:03:59 | 0:04:01 | |
-No. -So, granary, salt... | 0:04:01 | 0:04:04 | |
-With a bit of a nutty, salty taste to it. -All right, thank you. | 0:04:04 | 0:04:07 | |
Excuse me. | 0:04:09 | 0:04:10 | |
Excuse me. | 0:04:10 | 0:04:12 | |
-What bread do you love? -Bread? Brown, wholemeal bread. | 0:04:15 | 0:04:19 | |
You cannot beat that. | 0:04:19 | 0:04:21 | |
# Oh, bread, bread... # | 0:04:25 | 0:04:27 | |
I like wholemeal because, because it doesn't give you constipation. | 0:04:27 | 0:04:32 | |
I'm prepared to say that on camera. | 0:04:32 | 0:04:35 | |
-That's really weird. -What's your perfect loaf? | 0:04:35 | 0:04:37 | |
I like white bread, personally. | 0:04:37 | 0:04:39 | |
White bread is really nice, it is, but it just clogs up your guts. | 0:04:39 | 0:04:42 | |
Just have some fruit once in a while. | 0:04:42 | 0:04:45 | |
Something, something real, nice and fluffy, a lot of flour on the top. | 0:04:45 | 0:04:49 | |
Bread? One with plenty of taste, well risen, no artificial taste, and definitely unsliced. | 0:04:49 | 0:04:54 | |
-Why, why all those things? -Because I make my own bread. | 0:04:54 | 0:04:57 | |
Do you? Great, thank you. | 0:04:57 | 0:04:59 | |
It's got to have a good crust. | 0:04:59 | 0:05:01 | |
And be soft inside. | 0:05:01 | 0:05:03 | |
-Soft inside? -Brown, but no bits. | 0:05:03 | 0:05:05 | |
-Brown and crispy. -Yeah? | 0:05:05 | 0:05:07 | |
-It's white. -White? | 0:05:11 | 0:05:13 | |
And does it come in a packet or do you make it yourself? | 0:05:13 | 0:05:16 | |
-In a packet. -What do you put on it? | 0:05:16 | 0:05:19 | |
-Butter. -That's it? Taste it? | 0:05:19 | 0:05:21 | |
Yes. | 0:05:21 | 0:05:23 | |
-And cheese toastie. -Cheese toastie, mm-mm. You're making me hungry. | 0:05:23 | 0:05:26 | |
Today, there's a lot of different loaves to choose from. | 0:05:31 | 0:05:34 | |
But it wasn't always like that. | 0:05:34 | 0:05:37 | |
The British have been baking bread for more than 8,000 years. | 0:05:46 | 0:05:49 | |
Tom wants to know if there's anything he can learn from our ancestors. | 0:05:51 | 0:05:55 | |
He's come to Cornwall to meet archaeologist Jacqui Wood. | 0:05:56 | 0:06:00 | |
-Hello, Jacqui. -Hello. Nice to meet you. | 0:06:02 | 0:06:04 | |
Nice to meet you. What a place. | 0:06:04 | 0:06:06 | |
She's built her very own Iron Age village. | 0:06:06 | 0:06:09 | |
We're going to do a bit of, cook a bit of bread. | 0:06:09 | 0:06:12 | |
We're going to bake in there. | 0:06:12 | 0:06:15 | |
That's our oven. It's called a bank oven because it's cut into | 0:06:15 | 0:06:20 | |
the banks so you've got a nice bit of insulation around the outside. | 0:06:20 | 0:06:23 | |
-While that's heating you might -as -well put something on the top. | 0:06:23 | 0:06:27 | |
-So you've got a hob and an oven? -That's right. | 0:06:27 | 0:06:29 | |
It's like a dual purpose cooker. | 0:06:29 | 0:06:30 | |
In pre-history you get really mean about wood, because you use so much of it when you're cooking. | 0:06:30 | 0:06:36 | |
This was made out of dried elderberries. | 0:06:37 | 0:06:40 | |
How long ago did you make that? Does it take a while to rise? | 0:06:40 | 0:06:43 | |
-Yesterday. -OK, so, kind of a day. | 0:06:43 | 0:06:46 | |
About a day to get the yeast going. This was quite tiny when I started. | 0:06:46 | 0:06:51 | |
-So it's doubled in size? -Yeah. | 0:06:51 | 0:06:53 | |
You can use fresh elderberries, straight off the tree, put them into some flour and water, | 0:06:53 | 0:06:58 | |
and the wild yeast on the outside of the elderberries will ferment it. | 0:06:58 | 0:07:02 | |
It's just mixed in with a bit of salt and honey. | 0:07:02 | 0:07:06 | |
Put that in. | 0:07:06 | 0:07:08 | |
It's really hot. | 0:07:08 | 0:07:10 | |
Let this go quite flush. | 0:07:12 | 0:07:15 | |
-Like that? -Yeah. We've got some turf to seal it up, really. | 0:07:15 | 0:07:20 | |
Keep the heat in. | 0:07:20 | 0:07:23 | |
I want to build one in my garden. | 0:07:25 | 0:07:27 | |
You've got to make sure it's granite or igneous stone, because if you use slate | 0:07:27 | 0:07:32 | |
or sedimentary stone, the first fire you put in it, it'll blow up. | 0:07:32 | 0:07:36 | |
-So Cotswold limestone... -Seriously. | 0:07:36 | 0:07:38 | |
Really? Will it blow it up? | 0:07:38 | 0:07:40 | |
It'll explode. | 0:07:40 | 0:07:42 | |
-And maybe kill or maim. -It's rather dangerous. | 0:07:42 | 0:07:45 | |
The stones absorb heat from the fire and keep the oven at the right temperature. | 0:07:45 | 0:07:51 | |
The dark wholemeal loaf will take about an hour to bake. | 0:07:53 | 0:07:56 | |
Smells good. | 0:07:59 | 0:08:01 | |
-Smells baked. -Shall we have a look? | 0:08:01 | 0:08:04 | |
Careful there. | 0:08:07 | 0:08:10 | |
Oh, yes. Look at that. | 0:08:10 | 0:08:13 | |
The knife is coming out clean so it's baked in the middle. | 0:08:20 | 0:08:23 | |
It's really worked, hasn't it? It's good. | 0:08:28 | 0:08:31 | |
You can see how the yeast has sealed the holes. | 0:08:31 | 0:08:33 | |
-Yeah, those air bubbles. -You can see right through. | 0:08:33 | 0:08:36 | |
It's really good for you, the elderberries are really good for you. | 0:08:36 | 0:08:39 | |
Baking with Jacqui has given Tom an idea for his first attempt at a competition-winning loaf. | 0:08:42 | 0:08:48 | |
Borrowing from the Iron Age bakers, I'm going to use natural yeast to rise my dough. | 0:09:08 | 0:09:14 | |
This smell certainly gets me up in the morning. | 0:09:16 | 0:09:18 | |
It's a really strong, fruity smell. | 0:09:18 | 0:09:22 | |
This is sourdough, when you take flour, water, mix them together | 0:09:22 | 0:09:26 | |
to attract airborne yeasts who then feed off the sugars in the flour. | 0:09:26 | 0:09:30 | |
This will make my bread rise. | 0:09:30 | 0:09:32 | |
This goes right back to ancient times, to the Egyptians that took us from flat breads to leavened breads. | 0:09:34 | 0:09:42 | |
This is at least 40 years old, brought over from Ireland by a baker who worked with my dad in Bath. | 0:09:42 | 0:09:49 | |
We've taken it and we've nurtured it and on a daily basis we feed it flour and water, and we take out | 0:09:49 | 0:09:56 | |
what we need from this to leaven our doughs and whatever we take we replenish with more flour and water. | 0:09:56 | 0:10:03 | |
I feel I'm running a risk using sourdough, because its tangy, sour flavour isn't to everybody's liking. | 0:10:05 | 0:10:12 | |
But I believe it's the right thing to do. | 0:10:12 | 0:10:14 | |
All the entrants to Organic Loaf Of The Year | 0:10:16 | 0:10:21 | |
starts with the same basic ingredients - flour, salt and water. | 0:10:21 | 0:10:27 | |
But these can be used to make an enormous range of breads, and | 0:10:27 | 0:10:30 | |
it's the bakers' skill in varying them that will decide the winner. | 0:10:30 | 0:10:35 | |
The quality of the loaf is all determined by the quality of the flour. | 0:10:36 | 0:10:41 | |
So I've got a really nice, wholemeal flour that has a lovely nutty flavour. | 0:10:41 | 0:10:45 | |
'I then need some salt to season the flour, to really bring out the flavour.' | 0:10:47 | 0:10:52 | |
Hot water. It binds the flour together. | 0:10:54 | 0:10:57 | |
There's a science to baking, where every aspect of what's happening can be understood, | 0:10:59 | 0:11:05 | |
but to create something beautiful it also has to be an art as well. | 0:11:05 | 0:11:09 | |
The kind of baking that I do, or... | 0:11:19 | 0:11:23 | |
people do at home, if you're fixing it around a busy life, you've got plenty of other things to do, | 0:11:23 | 0:11:28 | |
you don't really have to be patient, you just have to go back to it when it's ready. Easy as. | 0:11:28 | 0:11:33 | |
Entering a | 0:11:45 | 0:11:47 | |
loaf into a competition that we've | 0:11:47 | 0:11:51 | |
won so many times before | 0:11:51 | 0:11:53 | |
is daunting but exciting. | 0:11:54 | 0:11:57 | |
I need something that has great flavour and great taste. | 0:11:57 | 0:12:00 | |
It's got to look great and stand out and be memorable. | 0:12:00 | 0:12:03 | |
The dough is now stretchy, fully mixed and kneaded. | 0:12:06 | 0:12:11 | |
We both need a rest. | 0:12:13 | 0:12:15 | |
If I'm going to create a perfect loaf, there's no better place to do it than in a wood-fired oven. | 0:12:27 | 0:12:32 | |
Little and often is how | 0:12:34 | 0:12:37 | |
I'm going to rock this oven up to 500 degrees. | 0:12:37 | 0:12:41 | |
Once I've got it fired up and it's clean inside, I'm then able to bake bread | 0:12:44 | 0:12:48 | |
followed by patisserie, followed by roasting things overnight. | 0:12:48 | 0:12:52 | |
So the dough has been resting. | 0:13:01 | 0:13:03 | |
It's doubled in size. | 0:13:03 | 0:13:05 | |
You can see the intricate lattice of bubbles that has been created by | 0:13:05 | 0:13:10 | |
the sourdough as it's worked. It's time to portion it up. | 0:13:10 | 0:13:13 | |
This is a really wet dough which is going to be great for giving it a lovely moist crumb inside. | 0:13:16 | 0:13:22 | |
Now I've moulded the dough pieces, I'm going to put them in the prover, where it's warm and humid. | 0:13:25 | 0:13:30 | |
This'll encourage the yeast to do its thing | 0:13:32 | 0:13:34 | |
and over the next couple of hours they're going to double in size. | 0:13:34 | 0:13:37 | |
Great. At the front, the oven is 240 degrees. | 0:13:42 | 0:13:45 | |
The right temperature to make it jump up from the soul of the oven without it burning. | 0:13:45 | 0:13:50 | |
The loaf is baked. | 0:14:05 | 0:14:08 | |
But how good will it be? | 0:14:08 | 0:14:11 | |
The thing about baking is that it's not an exact science. | 0:14:11 | 0:14:16 | |
It's a bit flat, a bit wholemealy and a bit worthy and it's not my perfect loaf. | 0:14:17 | 0:14:24 | |
It certainly leaves plenty of room for improvement so it is back to the drawing board. | 0:14:24 | 0:14:29 | |
He might be disappointed but this is the kind of bread | 0:14:31 | 0:14:35 | |
that most people in Britain ate before the Industrial Revolution. | 0:14:35 | 0:14:39 | |
Until then, most country estates and manors like Stanway House in Gloucestershire had a water mill. | 0:14:51 | 0:14:59 | |
They ground their own corn and produced their own stone-ground, wholemeal flour. | 0:14:59 | 0:15:05 | |
Tom wants to know why the bread that mills like this produced, went out of fashion. | 0:15:13 | 0:15:18 | |
He's meeting one of Britain's leading authorities on the history of bread, Professor Brian Reuben. | 0:15:18 | 0:15:24 | |
-Professor Reuben. -Hello, pleased to meet you. -So this is the mill. | 0:15:24 | 0:15:29 | |
After centuries of neglect, this mill is being restored by David Empringham. | 0:15:35 | 0:15:40 | |
Today, the team is putting in the millstones. | 0:15:43 | 0:15:48 | |
That's good. | 0:15:48 | 0:15:50 | |
This has been quite exciting seeing this one put together. | 0:15:50 | 0:15:54 | |
Like other mills in medieval times, Stanway started life as | 0:15:56 | 0:16:01 | |
a 'fulling' mill, for washing the fleeces of sheep. | 0:16:01 | 0:16:05 | |
They made a great deal of money out of it, of course, because everything came together in this area. | 0:16:05 | 0:16:11 | |
They had the sheep with the short fleece | 0:16:11 | 0:16:14 | |
which was ideal for broad cloth which is what they were making. | 0:16:14 | 0:16:17 | |
They had the water supply of which I have never seen it fail yet in seven years. | 0:16:17 | 0:16:22 | |
-So you have a big pond up there? -A big pond, constant supply of water. | 0:16:22 | 0:16:25 | |
A huge wheel like this, you could practically get enough electricity to run the estate on. | 0:16:31 | 0:16:37 | |
How big is it? | 0:16:39 | 0:16:40 | |
24 feet diameter. | 0:16:40 | 0:16:43 | |
But the invention of steam-driven mills during | 0:16:43 | 0:16:46 | |
the Industrial Revolution made water mills obsolete. | 0:16:46 | 0:16:50 | |
The new technology allowed the millers to grind the wheat more finely and sieve out the bran. | 0:16:55 | 0:17:01 | |
For the first time, white flour became relatively easy to produce and white bread soon took off. | 0:17:01 | 0:17:08 | |
This looks like a good spot for lunch. | 0:17:08 | 0:17:11 | |
According to Professor Reuben, it wasn't just because people liked eating it. | 0:17:11 | 0:17:15 | |
The movement towards white bread was successful because the employers wanted their workers to have white | 0:17:15 | 0:17:23 | |
bread, If you were eating wholemeal bread all the time or bread that was | 0:17:23 | 0:17:27 | |
-bran rich, you had to go to the loo all the time. -Really? | 0:17:27 | 0:17:31 | |
Yes. If you have these chaps working in your factory | 0:17:31 | 0:17:35 | |
and they had to go off every hour, or every half hour to the loo, it interrupted production. | 0:17:35 | 0:17:41 | |
It wasn't long before the baking of bread itself began to be mechanized. | 0:17:43 | 0:17:48 | |
At the 1924 | 0:17:50 | 0:17:53 | |
Empire Exhibition, Queen Mary, who was the country's | 0:17:53 | 0:17:58 | |
premier housewife, came and accepted a loaf of bread which had | 0:17:58 | 0:18:02 | |
virtually not been touched from the moment the flour had been | 0:18:02 | 0:18:07 | |
poured in at one end, to the moment it had been taken out at the other. | 0:18:07 | 0:18:11 | |
Mechanisation transformed baking. | 0:18:24 | 0:18:29 | |
By the 1970s, most bread was being made in large industrial plants. | 0:18:29 | 0:18:34 | |
The impact on smaller bakeries was dramatic. | 0:18:37 | 0:18:41 | |
Thousands went out of business. | 0:18:41 | 0:18:43 | |
Many of those that survived did so by offering something unique. | 0:18:50 | 0:18:55 | |
One of them is Brackman's Jewish bakery in Salford. | 0:18:59 | 0:19:03 | |
It's run by third generation baker, Andrew Adelman. | 0:19:05 | 0:19:09 | |
Andrew, hi, how you doing? | 0:19:09 | 0:19:11 | |
-Good to see you. -He specialises in making a Jewish loaf called Challah. | 0:19:11 | 0:19:18 | |
-I hear you make a good Challah here. -Yes, we do. | 0:19:18 | 0:19:22 | |
-Is that it over there? -Yes, that is. | 0:19:22 | 0:19:25 | |
We find we have to keep a very high standard. | 0:19:28 | 0:19:32 | |
Our customers come from a very orthodox community. | 0:19:32 | 0:19:36 | |
We do have a large customer base of secular Jews as well. | 0:19:36 | 0:19:39 | |
A Rabbi inspects each Jewish baker every single day to make sure that | 0:19:39 | 0:19:45 | |
the baking methods and ingredients conform to Jewish religious law. | 0:19:45 | 0:19:50 | |
This is from London. | 0:19:53 | 0:19:55 | |
It is a supervised product. | 0:19:55 | 0:19:57 | |
This is the logo. This is what you are looking out for. | 0:19:57 | 0:20:01 | |
So you come in every day. | 0:20:01 | 0:20:03 | |
How long does that take? | 0:20:03 | 0:20:05 | |
40, 45 minutes, depending on what is needed. | 0:20:05 | 0:20:10 | |
It is quite routine? | 0:20:10 | 0:20:11 | |
-Definitely. -You get used to each other hanging around? | 0:20:11 | 0:20:14 | |
-Yes. -Do you make him a coffee and give him a cake? Keep him sweet? | 0:20:14 | 0:20:19 | |
But the Rabbi doesn't just check the ingredients and baking methods. | 0:20:22 | 0:20:27 | |
He prays over the bread. | 0:20:27 | 0:20:29 | |
We take a small piece about this size | 0:20:29 | 0:20:32 | |
from each batch of each individual recipe that we make. | 0:20:32 | 0:20:37 | |
We put them into here and then | 0:20:37 | 0:20:40 | |
the Rabbi comes and he | 0:20:40 | 0:20:42 | |
separates them and takes a bit of each one | 0:20:42 | 0:20:46 | |
and makes a blessing over it. | 0:20:46 | 0:20:48 | |
The bakers here make a plaited white Challah. | 0:20:54 | 0:20:58 | |
Is there any significance of them being six strands? | 0:20:58 | 0:21:01 | |
A lot of people do five strands, seven strands, it is just that we have always done six. | 0:21:01 | 0:21:05 | |
That is how it is. | 0:21:05 | 0:21:07 | |
Starting on the top left, imagine there is a V in the middle. | 0:21:07 | 0:21:12 | |
That is top one down and this is the second one on the other side across. | 0:21:12 | 0:21:17 | |
Top one down to the middle and second across. | 0:21:17 | 0:21:19 | |
Second one-down, second one across. | 0:21:19 | 0:21:21 | |
Repeat that all the way down. | 0:21:21 | 0:21:24 | |
-Top one down. -Second one across. | 0:21:24 | 0:21:27 | |
Top one down, second one across. | 0:21:27 | 0:21:31 | |
Right across, right across. | 0:21:31 | 0:21:33 | |
-See? -Thank you. | 0:21:33 | 0:21:35 | |
-You used to plait your sister's hair, no? -Yes. | 0:21:35 | 0:21:39 | |
I've got three daughters. | 0:21:39 | 0:21:40 | |
-They you are you see. -One is a baby though and can't plait her hair yet. | 0:21:40 | 0:21:44 | |
And then poppy seeds. | 0:21:44 | 0:21:47 | |
Very good. | 0:21:47 | 0:21:49 | |
I wonder who made that handsome looking loaf. | 0:21:56 | 0:21:58 | |
I think it was you, wasn't it? I think the large might just need a little bit longer. | 0:21:58 | 0:22:02 | |
You can see it is still quite soft underneath. | 0:22:02 | 0:22:05 | |
It should be quite hollow. I'm telling you, you're the baker. | 0:22:05 | 0:22:08 | |
Well, I'll be all for taking them out now but whatever. | 0:22:10 | 0:22:13 | |
Do you won't get them out now? | 0:22:13 | 0:22:17 | |
I think they'll start collapsing if I take them out now. They are not quite there. | 0:22:17 | 0:22:20 | |
People will put two of these on a table tonight and they will look very nice. | 0:22:22 | 0:22:28 | |
Now he's seen how Challah is baked, Tom want to find out just what place it has at the Jewish table. | 0:22:38 | 0:22:45 | |
Hello, Isabel. | 0:22:47 | 0:22:49 | |
Good to meet you. | 0:22:49 | 0:22:51 | |
-Come in. -Rabbi's wife Dr Isabel Braidman bakes her own Challah, not as a plait but as a spiral. | 0:22:51 | 0:22:59 | |
That is a good sign coming away nice and cleanly from the bowl. | 0:22:59 | 0:23:04 | |
Why do you have a choice of a plait and a spiral when everything else is so pinned down? | 0:23:04 | 0:23:10 | |
Well, the spiral has the significance. | 0:23:10 | 0:23:14 | |
It is spiralling up to heaven. | 0:23:14 | 0:23:17 | |
Right up there. | 0:23:17 | 0:23:19 | |
Also because it is so easy to do, bakers like to do it for a festival. | 0:23:19 | 0:23:26 | |
Midweek, they are in a rush in the bakery and a spiral is dead easy | 0:23:26 | 0:23:31 | |
and you can get that done quickly and have them in time. | 0:23:31 | 0:23:34 | |
It is a pleasing shape. | 0:23:34 | 0:23:36 | |
So that's as even a snake as one can get it. | 0:23:36 | 0:23:41 | |
Around and around like that. | 0:23:45 | 0:23:48 | |
Spiralling up and we tuck it underneath there. | 0:23:48 | 0:23:52 | |
-That holds it all together. -Holds it all together, just spiral it from above and it will get sat there. | 0:23:54 | 0:24:01 | |
OK, so that's definitely the quickest way? | 0:24:01 | 0:24:03 | |
It's definitely quick. | 0:24:03 | 0:24:04 | |
How do you feel your family's story of making bread and sharing it weekly? | 0:24:07 | 0:24:13 | |
Can you imagine life without it? | 0:24:13 | 0:24:15 | |
It's so much part of you, it's part of the way you do things. | 0:24:15 | 0:24:21 | |
It would be one of the things that | 0:24:21 | 0:24:23 | |
was part of you that you didn't do. | 0:24:23 | 0:24:25 | |
And I think that would be sort of a hole in one's life. | 0:24:25 | 0:24:32 | |
You do feel a sense of achievement. | 0:24:32 | 0:24:34 | |
OK, so, let's come into the dining room and have | 0:24:34 | 0:24:39 | |
a cup of tea. | 0:24:39 | 0:24:41 | |
I've laid it all out. | 0:24:41 | 0:24:44 | |
Here's the Challah underneath the white cloth. | 0:24:44 | 0:24:48 | |
Very traditional, symbolic of the manna | 0:24:48 | 0:24:52 | |
they found and used to sustain themselves when they were wandering | 0:24:52 | 0:24:59 | |
in the wilderness for 40 years in the wilderness, they had this manna to sustain themselves. | 0:24:59 | 0:25:07 | |
Which they probably got rather fed up with, I think. | 0:25:07 | 0:25:10 | |
It might have been quite nice to begin with, but there are records they grumbled against. | 0:25:10 | 0:25:16 | |
Let's get on to this land of milk and honey, let's move along, guys. | 0:25:16 | 0:25:20 | |
And so, the bread has pride of place in the centre of the table? | 0:25:20 | 0:25:24 | |
Absolutely pride of place in the centre of the table. | 0:25:24 | 0:25:26 | |
Does it go well with tea? | 0:25:26 | 0:25:28 | |
I think so. Would you like to try some? | 0:25:28 | 0:25:30 | |
-Yes, please! -OK, let's have a go and see what happens. | 0:25:30 | 0:25:34 | |
It's so easy to cut. | 0:25:34 | 0:25:36 | |
Have a go at that. | 0:25:36 | 0:25:38 | |
They would sprinkle, but you don't have to have salt on there. | 0:25:38 | 0:25:41 | |
Go on, I want to do it, do it the proper way. Thank you. | 0:25:41 | 0:25:45 | |
It's got a very subtle sweetness, a delicious nutty flavour. | 0:25:48 | 0:25:54 | |
So you typically make this on a Thursday evening? | 0:25:54 | 0:25:57 | |
Thursday evening, yes. | 0:25:57 | 0:25:59 | |
You have that wonderful smell and you save it until Friday? | 0:25:59 | 0:26:03 | |
Until Friday, yes. That tradition is, the woman | 0:26:04 | 0:26:07 | |
of the house lights the candles and says a blessing over them. | 0:26:07 | 0:26:11 | |
Then you have the blessing over the wine and then whoever is going to cut the bread, washes their hands. | 0:26:11 | 0:26:17 | |
The tradition is you don't say anything between washing your hands | 0:26:17 | 0:26:22 | |
and actually cutting the Challah, so there is this great silence and the | 0:26:22 | 0:26:27 | |
cover is lifted off. The bread is cut and the blessing said. | 0:26:27 | 0:26:30 | |
And then it's shared round and it's sort of a mixture of warm family and sort of quite a, almost | 0:26:30 | 0:26:40 | |
-theatrical event. -A bit of reverence as well? | 0:26:40 | 0:26:43 | |
Yes, yes. | 0:26:43 | 0:26:44 | |
The visit to Manchester has fired Tom's imagination. | 0:26:53 | 0:26:57 | |
The Challah is a thing of beauty. | 0:26:57 | 0:27:01 | |
What I'm really impressed about is the way it plays a central role in people's daily lives, | 0:27:01 | 0:27:07 | |
and the way it so handsomely sits in the centre of the table. | 0:27:07 | 0:27:10 | |
And seeing Isabel and Andrew's baking has given him new ideas for the Organic Loaf Awards. | 0:27:16 | 0:27:23 | |
For my next attempt at a competition-winning loaf, | 0:27:30 | 0:27:33 | |
I'm going to use white flour, just like Andrew does in his Challah. | 0:27:33 | 0:27:36 | |
Not only will I have a more attractive loaf, but I'll get a much better rise. | 0:27:36 | 0:27:41 | |
The bit that gives bread and dough | 0:27:48 | 0:27:50 | |
its stretchiness, is all part of the protein content of the flour. | 0:27:50 | 0:27:57 | |
That's to be found in the white part of the wheat. | 0:27:57 | 0:28:02 | |
So, the less bran there is in here, the more I'm going to be able to make a stretchier dough that | 0:28:02 | 0:28:10 | |
holds in the carbon dioxide, that the sourdough is giving off. | 0:28:10 | 0:28:13 | |
'Other than changing the flour, I'm using the same basic ingredients, | 0:28:19 | 0:28:25 | |
salt, wholemeal sourdough and water.' | 0:28:25 | 0:28:28 | |
This dough is much wetter than the one I made last time | 0:28:31 | 0:28:35 | |
and that will give me a moister loaf with a more open texture to it. | 0:28:35 | 0:28:40 | |
So, time to set the dough. | 0:28:56 | 0:28:58 | |
This has been in here a good few hours. | 0:29:00 | 0:29:02 | |
I'm going to hedge my bets, going 50/50, | 0:29:02 | 0:29:06 | |
mix some flour into it, firm up one and see how that comes out and go sloppy with the other one. | 0:29:06 | 0:29:10 | |
We'll play spot the difference later, see which one comes out best. | 0:29:10 | 0:29:15 | |
Stick the whole lot upside-down. | 0:29:17 | 0:29:19 | |
Look at that, it's got great body to it, it looks vital, pert, virile. | 0:29:23 | 0:29:30 | |
Can't wait to see how that looks in the morning. | 0:29:30 | 0:29:32 | |
Get it baked off and it won't be long before it's sandwiches and soldiers. | 0:29:32 | 0:29:36 | |
I'm going to put the loaves in the prover, this time I'm going to leave | 0:29:40 | 0:29:43 | |
them overnight to really allow the sourdough flavour to punch through. | 0:29:43 | 0:29:47 | |
But a night in the prover doesn't guarantee success when the loaf is baked. | 0:30:15 | 0:30:21 | |
My two loaves, the one made with | 0:30:25 | 0:30:28 | |
the really wet dough, and the second one I added flour to. | 0:30:28 | 0:30:32 | |
It may look ancient, but this would have been a disaster in any era | 0:30:32 | 0:30:36 | |
to end up with a loaf that has spewed out like that. | 0:30:36 | 0:30:41 | |
This one, I'm feeling really positive about. | 0:30:41 | 0:30:44 | |
It just smells divine. | 0:30:44 | 0:30:47 | |
And when I squeeze it, it crackles. | 0:30:47 | 0:30:50 | |
There's a really great crust, | 0:30:50 | 0:30:52 | |
a massive improvement on my first attempt. | 0:30:52 | 0:30:56 | |
All of this is as good as nothing if it doesn't pass the family test, | 0:30:56 | 0:31:00 | |
I need to take this home and try it on the kids. | 0:31:00 | 0:31:02 | |
OK, I want to know what you think. | 0:31:08 | 0:31:10 | |
Because this is the hardest test for the bread | 0:31:10 | 0:31:13 | |
is to see whether it passes your test. | 0:31:13 | 0:31:16 | |
Do you like it? | 0:31:17 | 0:31:20 | |
Yes? Do you? What do you think it looks like? | 0:31:20 | 0:31:23 | |
Do you think that looks good enough to win? | 0:31:23 | 0:31:26 | |
If you gave it to a child they might play with it and throw it like a Frisbee. | 0:31:26 | 0:31:32 | |
What d'you think it looks like? | 0:31:32 | 0:31:34 | |
A cowpat. | 0:31:34 | 0:31:37 | |
I feel a Mamma Mia soundtrack coming on. | 0:31:39 | 0:31:43 | |
Things aren't going well - two attempts and two failures. | 0:31:43 | 0:31:49 | |
The competition is looming, but Tom is a long way from creating an award-winning loaf. | 0:31:51 | 0:31:57 | |
He needs inspiration from somewhere and goes in search of it, in Bristol. | 0:31:59 | 0:32:05 | |
Here in St Nicholas's Market in Bristol | 0:32:05 | 0:32:08 | |
there's a market trader, Trethowan's Dairy, who claims to make the best cheese toastie in the world. | 0:32:08 | 0:32:12 | |
To make it, he's importing bread from Paris, so I've got to | 0:32:12 | 0:32:18 | |
find out what's involved in making this legendary cheese toastie. | 0:32:18 | 0:32:23 | |
And Todd Trethowan isn't just any old cheese monger. | 0:32:23 | 0:32:27 | |
He owns a substantial award-winning business whose customers include leading supermarkets. | 0:32:27 | 0:32:34 | |
-Todd, good to meet you. -And you. | 0:32:34 | 0:32:36 | |
I've heard a lot about your infamous cheese toasties. | 0:32:36 | 0:32:39 | |
So you are importing bread from France? | 0:32:39 | 0:32:43 | |
That's right, it's really nice, it's got proper flavour. | 0:32:43 | 0:32:48 | |
And also quite an acidic flavour, which really goes well with the cheese. | 0:32:48 | 0:32:54 | |
It's slightly drier than a lot of breads and I | 0:32:54 | 0:32:58 | |
like to hang on to it for a couple of days to make it slightly drier still, because I reckon it tastes better. | 0:32:58 | 0:33:04 | |
OK. If I'm to try to make something for you that stands in its shoes, | 0:33:04 | 0:33:10 | |
I'm going to have to see it, taste it and understand more about what's involved. | 0:33:10 | 0:33:16 | |
Could you show me the where you keep it and I'll have a sniff and a prod? | 0:33:16 | 0:33:20 | |
Sure, let's go to the shop. | 0:33:20 | 0:33:23 | |
So these came in yesterday. | 0:33:23 | 0:33:24 | |
So you've got rice, Quinoa, wheat, maize corn and then | 0:33:24 | 0:33:30 | |
it's sliced already? OK, it's heavy. | 0:33:30 | 0:33:32 | |
Yeah. | 0:33:32 | 0:33:34 | |
Really is something to get your teeth into. | 0:33:35 | 0:33:38 | |
You have made some with fresh bread, and some with, when you say older? | 0:33:38 | 0:33:43 | |
That is five days old. | 0:33:43 | 0:33:46 | |
Really? | 0:33:46 | 0:33:47 | |
It concentrates the flavours slightly being slightly older, I feel like it does. | 0:33:47 | 0:33:51 | |
So it's more intense. | 0:33:51 | 0:33:53 | |
I try and fit them together, but because it in two pieces, I make | 0:33:53 | 0:33:58 | |
sure they are quite big so people get an extra good deal, because it in two bits. | 0:33:58 | 0:34:02 | |
Actually, would a loaf that was slightly more square in profile be better? | 0:34:02 | 0:34:08 | |
That's interesting. I have thought about that. | 0:34:08 | 0:34:10 | |
-It could be. -So, is this one ready to cook? | 0:34:10 | 0:34:13 | |
Yes. | 0:34:13 | 0:34:15 | |
If I take an older one... | 0:34:15 | 0:34:16 | |
So, that's the one you put in first. | 0:34:24 | 0:34:26 | |
That's the young one. | 0:34:26 | 0:34:29 | |
You've got this juicy, massively flavoursome middle bit going on. | 0:34:31 | 0:34:38 | |
-And then this really teeth gripping chewy bit. -That's the older one. | 0:34:38 | 0:34:42 | |
It certainly feels firmer. | 0:34:45 | 0:34:48 | |
It makes sense to do it this way with a drier loaf. | 0:34:52 | 0:34:55 | |
I can see that we've got | 0:34:55 | 0:34:58 | |
a toastie here that you can carry around. | 0:34:58 | 0:35:01 | |
People buying this are busy, you know. Whizzing through. | 0:35:01 | 0:35:03 | |
You want them to be able to grab something that's not only really, really tasty but convenient to eat. | 0:35:03 | 0:35:11 | |
And keeping the bread for a week obviously helps achieve that. | 0:35:11 | 0:35:14 | |
Todd's cheese toastie is just the inspiration Tom needed. | 0:35:16 | 0:35:21 | |
Thanks a lot. Cheers. | 0:35:21 | 0:35:23 | |
I love this Poilane bread. | 0:35:24 | 0:35:26 | |
And it would be an honour to make something that sits equal for you. | 0:35:26 | 0:35:29 | |
I've got... | 0:35:29 | 0:35:32 | |
a head full of ideas. If you'll allow me, I'll have a go | 0:35:32 | 0:35:34 | |
and, heck, I might even be able to make something better. | 0:35:34 | 0:35:37 | |
-Yes, I look forward to it. -OK. See you very soon. Cheers. | 0:35:37 | 0:35:40 | |
'I think I can do something really special here, make | 0:35:47 | 0:35:51 | |
'a big loaf for Todd and one I can enter into the competition.' | 0:35:51 | 0:35:54 | |
I'll do it by matching the Poilane, foreign loaf for size but using the best local ingredients. | 0:35:54 | 0:36:00 | |
A big, bold local organic loaf. | 0:36:00 | 0:36:03 | |
-Spelt has been used for thatching, is that right? -It has been. | 0:36:10 | 0:36:13 | |
It's a very, very old crop. | 0:36:13 | 0:36:16 | |
We believe it was brought to us by the Romans. | 0:36:16 | 0:36:19 | |
Tom's on the hunt for the very best local organic flour he can find. | 0:36:19 | 0:36:24 | |
He's come to Somerset to meet Pete Tincknell, the miller at Sharpham Park. | 0:36:24 | 0:36:29 | |
Pete grows a rare variety of wheat called spelt. | 0:36:29 | 0:36:34 | |
The Romans used spelt because it was very, very high energy content. | 0:36:34 | 0:36:39 | |
They marched on spelt, because it gave them a lot of energy. | 0:36:39 | 0:36:41 | |
It is the best flour without doubt you could use. | 0:36:41 | 0:36:44 | |
Spelt is a distant cousin to wheat and one of the oldest cultivated grains in Britain. | 0:36:47 | 0:36:54 | |
It's been overtaken by varieties of high yield, easy harvest wheat. | 0:36:54 | 0:36:59 | |
But, for Pete, spelt remains better to eat. | 0:36:59 | 0:37:04 | |
There should be more people go into spelt, wheat does tend to have this bloating effect. | 0:37:04 | 0:37:08 | |
It's horrible, wheat intolerance. | 0:37:08 | 0:37:10 | |
If you're using spelt, you're not going to get problems with this intolerance. | 0:37:10 | 0:37:13 | |
It's a more difficult grain to process. | 0:37:13 | 0:37:16 | |
So there's a lot more work goes into getting it into flour. | 0:37:16 | 0:37:20 | |
What you've got is very clean spelt here. | 0:37:24 | 0:37:27 | |
We're slicing the grain, a piece at a time. | 0:37:27 | 0:37:30 | |
We've gently ground it into flour. We haven't been aggressive with it. | 0:37:30 | 0:37:33 | |
We haven't damaged the proteins and the oils and things. | 0:37:33 | 0:37:36 | |
And we haven't put any additives with it in any way whatsoever. | 0:37:36 | 0:37:39 | |
That is your wholegrain flour. | 0:37:42 | 0:37:44 | |
You can see all the little grains, little specks of brown. | 0:37:44 | 0:37:48 | |
-If you feel that, that's quite gritty. -Yeah. | 0:37:48 | 0:37:50 | |
Once we've ground it into that consistency, | 0:37:50 | 0:37:53 | |
then by a sieving process, we can sieve out some of the bran and get you back to a purer, whiter flour. | 0:37:53 | 0:37:58 | |
What you've got here is exactly the same flour but I've removed the majority of the bran. | 0:37:58 | 0:38:04 | |
As you can see, it's a much purer, whiter flour and to touch it, it's like silk. | 0:38:04 | 0:38:09 | |
Isn't that beautiful. | 0:38:09 | 0:38:11 | |
Tom's decided on his flour. | 0:38:11 | 0:38:13 | |
He now needs to find the rest of his ingredients. | 0:38:13 | 0:38:16 | |
Next on the list is water. | 0:38:16 | 0:38:19 | |
Water's a key ingredient, it binds the other ingredients together. | 0:38:24 | 0:38:28 | |
I've come to this spring, just above my bakery, to see if using this makes a difference. | 0:38:28 | 0:38:34 | |
It could be that this water's softer or harder than what comes out of the tap | 0:38:40 | 0:38:43 | |
and given that it's just one of three ingredients, that may have a bearing on the end result. | 0:38:43 | 0:38:47 | |
Water straight out of the hill isn't going to have chlorine and chemicals that you get in tap water. | 0:38:49 | 0:38:57 | |
And with a sourdough, | 0:38:57 | 0:38:59 | |
it's important to give that a good chance. | 0:38:59 | 0:39:02 | |
It may be that I'd get a better sourdough from just using spring water. | 0:39:02 | 0:39:07 | |
That should be enough for a couple of batches. | 0:39:08 | 0:39:11 | |
Tom needs just one more ingredient before he's ready to bake his competition entry. Salt. | 0:39:22 | 0:39:28 | |
I've come right down to the bottom of England in Cornwall where, for | 0:39:31 | 0:39:35 | |
the first time in hundreds of years, they're making sea salt. | 0:39:35 | 0:39:40 | |
Salt is such a key part of my recipe. | 0:39:40 | 0:39:42 | |
If like good sea salt, it has a great flavour and high mineral content, it would build my dough up. | 0:39:42 | 0:39:50 | |
I want to find out where they're making it, how they're making it and whether it's up to the job. | 0:39:50 | 0:39:55 | |
-Good morning, Tony. -Hello, Tom. Good to see you. | 0:39:57 | 0:40:00 | |
Tony Fraser has set up the salt harvesting plant. | 0:40:00 | 0:40:04 | |
What you've got here is a monster pump which can pump 24 hours, seven | 0:40:06 | 0:40:10 | |
days a week and is pumping the water underground and along here towards the harvesting plant. | 0:40:10 | 0:40:17 | |
The salt is crystallised, as you can see. It's lovely and dry. | 0:40:23 | 0:40:27 | |
What we've got is a small flaky sea salt. | 0:40:27 | 0:40:31 | |
So you can see the different sizes of the crystals. | 0:40:31 | 0:40:35 | |
But it's soft enough to actually crush between the finger and thumb. | 0:40:35 | 0:40:38 | |
And will it dissolve in my dough? | 0:40:38 | 0:40:41 | |
-It will dissolve very easily. -Really? | 0:40:41 | 0:40:42 | |
-Yes. -That's quite key. I don't want lumpy, salty... -Have a taste. | 0:40:42 | 0:40:47 | |
It's like the bottom of the crisp packet but better. | 0:40:48 | 0:40:51 | |
It has a really, really good, fresh taste straight from the ocean. | 0:40:54 | 0:40:58 | |
It has a sweetness as well. That's going to come through in your bread. | 0:40:58 | 0:41:02 | |
-And will it keep? -It keeps for ever. | 0:41:03 | 0:41:05 | |
Forever? OK. So, there's no caking agent? | 0:41:05 | 0:41:08 | |
No anti-caking agents, nothing is added. | 0:41:08 | 0:41:11 | |
'Our salt is very, very salty and it means that you can actually use less. | 0:41:11 | 0:41:16 | |
'So we reckon, in your perfect loaf, that you can use 15% less salt.' | 0:41:16 | 0:41:21 | |
I'm really happy, because I've got my key secret ingredient. | 0:41:21 | 0:41:26 | |
-Best of luck. -Thanks very much. That's great. | 0:41:26 | 0:41:29 | |
This has sown up and completed the process of finding ingredients. | 0:41:37 | 0:41:40 | |
'I've got a great quality spelt flour I'm really happy and excited to be using. | 0:41:40 | 0:41:44 | |
'And sea salt that will flavour, season and enhance my dough. | 0:41:44 | 0:41:50 | |
'Everything's in place.' | 0:41:50 | 0:41:52 | |
I've just got to make this perfect loaf and I'm ready. | 0:41:52 | 0:41:55 | |
Sea salt all the way from Cornwall. | 0:42:00 | 0:42:02 | |
And then, last but not least, some spring water to bring the whole lot together. | 0:42:12 | 0:42:17 | |
There's a limit to how much I can physically mix on the table so this time I'm going to use the mixer. | 0:42:20 | 0:42:24 | |
Just testing it to see if what Tony from the Cornish Sea Salt Company said is true that | 0:42:40 | 0:42:45 | |
good, proper sea salt is more saltier than table salt | 0:42:45 | 0:42:49 | |
and therefore doesn't require so much in the dough. | 0:42:49 | 0:42:52 | |
This tastes great. The sourdough really comes through. | 0:42:52 | 0:42:55 | |
He's right, it doesn't need so much salt. | 0:42:55 | 0:42:58 | |
Just a touch more flour so that it doesn't flow out too much. | 0:42:58 | 0:43:02 | |
'I need to get this right.' | 0:43:08 | 0:43:09 | |
It's been mixing for 10 minutes and I just want to see how elastic this dough is. | 0:43:15 | 0:43:21 | |
It's pretty good. This is going to be | 0:43:21 | 0:43:23 | |
stretchy enough to hold | 0:43:23 | 0:43:26 | |
those precious yeast exhalations in. | 0:43:26 | 0:43:31 | |
And rise my dough nicely. I'm really impressed with this spelt flour. | 0:43:31 | 0:43:35 | |
Right, time to get intimate with this dough. | 0:43:35 | 0:43:38 | |
It's a beaute. It feels lush. | 0:43:43 | 0:43:45 | |
It's warm, it's friendly. | 0:43:45 | 0:43:48 | |
It's got this beautiful golden colour. | 0:43:48 | 0:43:50 | |
It looks and feels like the morning on a great day. | 0:43:50 | 0:43:54 | |
This new dough has allowed me to make a big two kilogram loaf that will stand out from the competition. | 0:44:16 | 0:44:24 | |
I'm going to make it square which will be perfect for Todd. | 0:44:24 | 0:44:28 | |
Its thick crust will seal the moisture in, keeping it fresh for up | 0:44:28 | 0:44:31 | |
to a week which will be ideal for families. | 0:44:31 | 0:44:34 | |
It's the kind of loaf that will be perfect at the centre of any table. | 0:44:34 | 0:44:37 | |
Perfect. | 0:44:37 | 0:44:39 | |
Wow. | 0:44:44 | 0:44:47 | |
I've moulded a whole load of kilogram loaves in my life but | 0:44:47 | 0:44:52 | |
getting my hands around the these two puppies is a new experience. | 0:44:52 | 0:44:55 | |
Beautiful. | 0:44:59 | 0:45:02 | |
'This loaf, for me, is not just good enough to make something that I enjoy eating. | 0:45:02 | 0:45:08 | |
'I've got to find a way of sharing with as many people as possible.' | 0:45:08 | 0:45:11 | |
I dreamt up and conceived the idea of this loaf but it needs a name. | 0:45:14 | 0:45:18 | |
What's it called? I don't think it's a James or a Stephen. | 0:45:18 | 0:45:22 | |
I'm going with... shepherd loaf. | 0:45:25 | 0:45:28 | |
How we slash a loaf | 0:45:31 | 0:45:33 | |
is how we give it our signature. | 0:45:33 | 0:45:36 | |
And this is a tradition borne out of necessity when people were | 0:45:36 | 0:45:39 | |
making loaves at home and taking them to the village baker to be baked. | 0:45:39 | 0:45:44 | |
It's necessary to mark it and sign it in such a way | 0:45:44 | 0:45:49 | |
that the loaf is distinguishable from your neighbour's. | 0:45:49 | 0:45:53 | |
It would be quite fun to have a sheep. | 0:45:53 | 0:45:58 | |
But the problem with this motif is that it would be very tricky | 0:45:58 | 0:46:03 | |
to cut with a knife without the whole thing collapsing. | 0:46:03 | 0:46:05 | |
So that idea is out. | 0:46:05 | 0:46:07 | |
What I'm really going with and what feels really strong to me is to do the shepherd's crook. | 0:46:07 | 0:46:12 | |
It's a loose S but it's a tight idea and it's going to work. | 0:46:12 | 0:46:16 | |
With the crook that's on top, I want to be shepherding more people over to good bread. | 0:46:18 | 0:46:24 | |
Fingers crossed that this absolutely doesn't collapse when I turn it upside down. | 0:46:26 | 0:46:30 | |
There she is. It's like a nice big fluffy pillow. | 0:46:37 | 0:46:40 | |
In she goes. So excited to make such a big loaf. | 0:46:46 | 0:46:49 | |
It's just massive. I know size isn't everything but, boy, this ought to really make a difference. | 0:46:49 | 0:46:58 | |
I really need this to work. | 0:47:00 | 0:47:01 | |
This is ground-breaking stuff for me. | 0:47:03 | 0:47:05 | |
I'm completely off script. | 0:47:05 | 0:47:08 | |
I've never made such a big loaf. | 0:47:08 | 0:47:11 | |
I've never done a square loaf. | 0:47:11 | 0:47:12 | |
I've never risen and proofed a loaf in a cake tin before. | 0:47:12 | 0:47:17 | |
I've never made a spelt sourdough before. | 0:47:17 | 0:47:19 | |
I'm looking for something that's pillowy. | 0:47:20 | 0:47:24 | |
The kind of loaf you'd want to spend some time with. | 0:47:24 | 0:47:28 | |
Oh, boy. | 0:47:30 | 0:47:33 | |
There she is. | 0:47:33 | 0:47:36 | |
We've got a foxy red crust. | 0:47:39 | 0:47:41 | |
That's going to make a heck of a sandwich. | 0:47:41 | 0:47:44 | |
I'm really pleased. I really feel like I'm on to a winner. | 0:47:44 | 0:47:48 | |
It's the day of the National Organic Food Awards competition. | 0:47:52 | 0:47:57 | |
The bread judging panel will be made up of a miller, a baker and food writers. | 0:47:57 | 0:48:03 | |
Tom doesn't trust anyone else to deliver his loaf. | 0:48:03 | 0:48:08 | |
I'm nervous and excited. | 0:48:10 | 0:48:12 | |
I feel, for sourdoughs, I've taken it as far as I can. | 0:48:13 | 0:48:17 | |
What I've got here is the best of what can be made locally. | 0:48:17 | 0:48:20 | |
But it would just be the icing on the cake if it was to win the award. | 0:48:20 | 0:48:24 | |
I've got some bread to enter. | 0:48:27 | 0:48:29 | |
So, we've got our four entrants... | 0:48:29 | 0:48:32 | |
There are more than 30 entries from bakers across the country. | 0:48:32 | 0:48:36 | |
While the judges assemble, Tom heads back to the Cotswolds. | 0:48:36 | 0:48:41 | |
Taste is the most important thing. But nobody can deny that | 0:48:47 | 0:48:50 | |
-the -appearance of a loaf of -bread is massively important. | 0:48:50 | 0:48:53 | |
And appealing. And there are some gorgeously appealing loaves here. | 0:48:53 | 0:48:57 | |
They're going to be looking for the correct crumb and crust. | 0:48:57 | 0:49:00 | |
And how open it is as a loaf often will be a factor. | 0:49:00 | 0:49:05 | |
Whether the holes in there are big or little. | 0:49:05 | 0:49:09 | |
Whether it works as a loaf, whether it's a good idea or a silly idea. | 0:49:09 | 0:49:13 | |
So, you wouldn't put pineapple... | 0:49:15 | 0:49:16 | |
We had a pineapple loaf | 0:49:16 | 0:49:18 | |
once, it really didn't work, you know? | 0:49:18 | 0:49:21 | |
We want loaves of bread | 0:49:22 | 0:49:24 | |
that are benchmarked for quality | 0:49:24 | 0:49:27 | |
and that kind of artisan look and feel. | 0:49:27 | 0:49:31 | |
It's a tremendously reassuring product, | 0:49:31 | 0:49:33 | |
really good bread is, especially in these times, | 0:49:33 | 0:49:38 | |
we need good bakers. | 0:49:38 | 0:49:40 | |
White flour, stoneground, spring water, pitted olives, sea salt, rye flour. | 0:49:40 | 0:49:45 | |
The judging begins. | 0:49:46 | 0:49:49 | |
Can we judge on name? I think that's a misnomer. | 0:49:50 | 0:49:54 | |
Olives don't come from countries where there are cottages, | 0:49:54 | 0:49:58 | |
so I think to call it a cottage olive bread his kind of an off putter. | 0:50:03 | 0:50:03 | |
-I think that's... -Very special. | 0:50:05 | 0:50:08 | |
-Yes. -That shows promise. | 0:50:08 | 0:50:11 | |
That's a no-no, isn't it? | 0:50:16 | 0:50:18 | |
Yes. | 0:50:18 | 0:50:20 | |
A tiny little bit of salt would have made the difference. | 0:50:21 | 0:50:24 | |
I think that's true of a lot of them. | 0:50:24 | 0:50:26 | |
It comes pre-sliced? | 0:50:26 | 0:50:30 | |
They don't know it, but they've reached Tom's loaf. | 0:50:30 | 0:50:32 | |
You can see this lovely texture. | 0:50:34 | 0:50:37 | |
This is a loaf that would look great on a trestle table on a Mediterranean island. | 0:50:37 | 0:50:42 | |
It's already there in the hotel, isn't it? | 0:50:42 | 0:50:45 | |
It'll keep for ages. | 0:50:45 | 0:50:47 | |
You could eat that in a week's time. | 0:50:47 | 0:50:49 | |
It's very difficult though, isn't it? | 0:50:49 | 0:50:52 | |
I think those two | 0:50:52 | 0:50:54 | |
that we started with, they look very nice and then you come to this. | 0:50:54 | 0:51:01 | |
Three times the size, | 0:51:01 | 0:51:04 | |
and it has a greater effect because of it. | 0:51:04 | 0:51:06 | |
I feel like I have almost got an aftertaste of wood. | 0:51:08 | 0:51:11 | |
You could have this with fig jam on, | 0:51:11 | 0:51:14 | |
with a lovely mozzarella toasted. | 0:51:14 | 0:51:17 | |
It's looking good for Tom. | 0:51:17 | 0:51:20 | |
But will all the judges like his powerfully flavoured sourdough? | 0:51:20 | 0:51:24 | |
-So this one? -Appearance I think | 0:51:24 | 0:51:28 | |
-is nice. -Sour, slightly. | 0:51:28 | 0:51:31 | |
Actually, it's quite sour, | 0:51:31 | 0:51:33 | |
-isn't it? -The decision is on a knife edge. | 0:51:33 | 0:51:36 | |
-It's a close call between Tom's loaf and one other. -It's lovely! | 0:51:36 | 0:51:42 | |
I want to take that one home. | 0:51:46 | 0:51:48 | |
It's delicious. My money is on this one. | 0:51:48 | 0:51:50 | |
I've just had the call. | 0:52:02 | 0:52:05 | |
My shepherd's loaf hasn't won Organic Loaf Of The Year, which is disappointing. | 0:52:05 | 0:52:09 | |
But, it's come a close second. It's got highly commended. | 0:52:09 | 0:52:13 | |
This loaf was never about just winning the award. | 0:52:13 | 0:52:16 | |
It's about winning more people over to a better kind of bread. | 0:52:18 | 0:52:21 | |
It's disappointing, but undaunted, Tom is returning to Bristol for a verdict from another tough judge. | 0:52:26 | 0:52:33 | |
Back in St Nicholas's Market, with my shepherd's loaf. | 0:52:33 | 0:52:36 | |
I'm here to see whether it's up to mark for Todd, for his perfect cheese toastie. | 0:52:36 | 0:52:40 | |
Hey, Todd. How are you doing? | 0:52:43 | 0:52:46 | |
-Very good. You? -Keeping busy? -Yes. | 0:52:46 | 0:52:48 | |
Here it is. I've sliced one up for you. | 0:52:48 | 0:52:51 | |
I've done it square, so you don't get lose so much from the edges. | 0:52:51 | 0:52:55 | |
-Two kilos. -It's a brilliant size. | 0:52:55 | 0:52:59 | |
Let's have a taste. | 0:52:59 | 0:53:00 | |
Worryingly for Tom, Todd has got top cheesemonger Ben Ticehurst with him to judge the loaf. | 0:53:01 | 0:53:08 | |
It's nice, because there's some acidity there as well. | 0:53:08 | 0:53:12 | |
Brilliant. The crust is fantastic, isn't it? | 0:53:12 | 0:53:15 | |
You need your teeth to really engage with it. | 0:53:15 | 0:53:18 | |
And that seals the moisture in, so it means that it'll keep really well. | 0:53:18 | 0:53:22 | |
-Does it? -This was made yesterday, and I know you like your bread three | 0:53:22 | 0:53:27 | |
days old, you maybe need to give it a couple of days yet. | 0:53:27 | 0:53:30 | |
Also, I love the texture as well. | 0:53:30 | 0:53:33 | |
It's not too loose or open, is it? It's a dense texture, isn't it? | 0:53:33 | 0:53:36 | |
We've tried lots and lots of local sourdoughs, | 0:53:36 | 0:53:39 | |
but none could quite get the texture right, could they? | 0:53:39 | 0:53:42 | |
You'll see when you have a toastie, it's the way the cheese melts and goes in, | 0:53:42 | 0:53:47 | |
needs the bread to have that really good texture. | 0:53:47 | 0:53:50 | |
That one is the closest I've ever tasted. | 0:53:50 | 0:53:54 | |
Is it a high five moment? | 0:53:54 | 0:53:57 | |
We'll see when we taste the toastie. | 0:53:57 | 0:54:00 | |
Absolutely gorgeous. And what a nice colour as well. | 0:54:05 | 0:54:07 | |
-I love it. -Isn't that beautiful? | 0:54:07 | 0:54:09 | |
Brilliant flavour. | 0:54:09 | 0:54:11 | |
Nice crunch. | 0:54:11 | 0:54:14 | |
The oils have really come through to the outside of the bread, which is what we look for, | 0:54:14 | 0:54:18 | |
I'd definitely like to go with that. | 0:54:18 | 0:54:20 | |
Very good. | 0:54:20 | 0:54:22 | |
Now you can have a real high five moment. | 0:54:23 | 0:54:27 | |
We've got to do this. | 0:54:27 | 0:54:29 | |
Try our new bread, made by Tom. | 0:54:34 | 0:54:36 | |
It's absolutely gorgeous. | 0:54:36 | 0:54:38 | |
So, in the end the shepherd loaf may not have won the Organic Loaf Award, but it's got Todd's vote. | 0:54:41 | 0:54:49 | |
It's almost the end of Tom's quest to make a perfect loaf. | 0:54:49 | 0:54:53 | |
He began by asking ordinary people about their ideal bread. | 0:54:53 | 0:54:56 | |
Now he's going back to find out what they think of his efforts compared to a standard white sliced. | 0:54:56 | 0:55:03 | |
-I don't eat that kind of bread. -Why don't you eat it? | 0:55:03 | 0:55:05 | |
Because I don't like it. | 0:55:05 | 0:55:08 | |
Have you eaten this kind of bread? | 0:55:08 | 0:55:10 | |
-What is it? -Just white bread. | 0:55:10 | 0:55:11 | |
No, I wouldn't eat | 0:55:11 | 0:55:13 | |
-white bread. -Why not? | 0:55:13 | 0:55:15 | |
Because it's processed. | 0:55:15 | 0:55:17 | |
That's like chewing putty. | 0:55:17 | 0:55:20 | |
I made a loaf. It's got some spelt flour that's grown and milled | 0:55:20 | 0:55:23 | |
locally, and a bit of sea salt from Cornwall and water, and that's it. | 0:55:23 | 0:55:27 | |
-It's not as bad as I thought. -No? -I can taste the salt. -Yeah. | 0:55:30 | 0:55:35 | |
-Would you try some of my spelt sourdough? -So, what's in it? | 0:55:43 | 0:55:47 | |
Flour, sea salt and water, that's it. | 0:55:47 | 0:55:48 | |
And that's it? | 0:55:48 | 0:55:50 | |
-Sea salt and water. -Oh, my God. | 0:55:50 | 0:55:53 | |
Is that all is in there? | 0:55:53 | 0:55:54 | |
What do you reckon? | 0:55:54 | 0:55:56 | |
-It's nice. -Do you like it? -Mmm. | 0:55:56 | 0:55:58 | |
It's a party in my mouth. | 0:56:00 | 0:56:02 | |
-You've got a party in your mouth? -Quite tasty. -Quite tasty? Yeah, OK. | 0:56:02 | 0:56:05 | |
Do you want a less crusty bit? | 0:56:07 | 0:56:10 | |
-It's hard. -Too hard. | 0:56:10 | 0:56:12 | |
-Too hard for you. Not a fan? -No. | 0:56:12 | 0:56:15 | |
What about the crust? | 0:56:15 | 0:56:17 | |
-Does that put you off? -Not really. -That crust is a natural way of | 0:56:19 | 0:56:21 | |
-keeping the moisture in, so it'll keep for a week or 10 days, easy. -Really? | 0:56:21 | 0:56:26 | |
-What's that? -Spelt sourdough. Do you want to try some? -Yeah. | 0:56:26 | 0:56:29 | |
-Let me know what you think. -I'm on camera! | 0:56:29 | 0:56:32 | |
It's nice. It's nutty. | 0:56:32 | 0:56:36 | |
-I'd eat that. -Would you? -All day long. | 0:56:36 | 0:56:39 | |
It's probably special occasion bread rather than day-to-day bread. | 0:56:39 | 0:56:43 | |
I bet that's gorgeous toasted. | 0:56:43 | 0:56:45 | |
Oh, yeah. | 0:56:45 | 0:56:47 | |
With lashings of butter. | 0:56:47 | 0:56:50 | |
It's nice. | 0:56:50 | 0:56:52 | |
-Do you like it, seriously? -Yeah. | 0:56:52 | 0:56:55 | |
Shepherd's loaf, it's called. | 0:56:55 | 0:56:57 | |
-It's lovely. That's special. -Bless you. | 0:56:57 | 0:57:00 | |
It's been a heck of an adventure. | 0:57:26 | 0:57:29 | |
I've got myself spelt flour from Somerset, Cornish sea salt, | 0:57:29 | 0:57:34 | |
Cotswolds finest water, and I've used my family's ancient sourdough. | 0:57:34 | 0:57:38 | |
I've drawn on 1,000 years of great baking skill, | 0:57:38 | 0:57:43 | |
and made a loaf that can take its place at the centre of the table. | 0:57:43 | 0:57:47 | |
-Here's to the shepherd's loaf! -Yes! | 0:58:04 | 0:58:08 | |
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd | 0:58:37 | 0:58:39 | |
Mm! Smells so good! | 0:58:39 | 0:58:41 |