Episode 17 Country Show Cook Off

The nation's best-loved chefs are hitting the road...

This is not Italy.

..to compete in some traditional country shows.

I want to win one of those rosettes.

On the way, they'll meet some of Britain's best local food producers.

Why would you ever eat a cupcake when you can have parkin?

Before competing head to head with each other...

It's only a competition!

It's only a show.

..and the Great British public.

I thought the competition was big enough.

Our chefs are at the mercy of the harshest food critics in the land,

the beady-eyed country show judges.

We don't like odd ones.

It's a competition and I'm taking it very seriously.

Hold on to your aprons, it's Country Show Cook Off.

This week, top chefs Aldo Zilli and Silvena Rowe

are back in their trusty van, on their country show road trip

from Pembrokeshire to The Yorkshire Dales.

There's a lot of smell of cows here.

Nice! Fill your lungs with it.

So far, beating some of the best amateur cooks in Nevern,

Aldo was thrilled to catch a first for his mackerel dish.

I've just won!

And as we give points for every success,

he's leading with three.

Silvena also scored - her lovely lamb came second,

nabbing her two points,

but she isn't quite as delighted.

Well...

So the gloves are off, and today the pair are waving goodbye

to the country show in Wales

and heading 200 miles to another tough cook-off,

North East of Burnley,

in the Lancashire village of Trawden.

Oh, my God, look at this beautiful river here.

It's so romantic here, I can't believe I'm here with you.

Once a mere hamlet in the middle of the ancient Trawden forest,

it was one of the earliest places to produce coal,

but today is a village surrounded by luxurious countryside

and farmland,

and our foodie foes will be visiting the Trawden show -

first set up in 1925

to promote and reflect typical Lancashire village life.

The show may now have a modern twist,

but many of the locals have been coming here

to compete for generations.

My mum and my grandma always entered, I've just done the same as them.

I've grown up in Trawden

so thought I'd come along and enter.

Our professional chefs are entering class 21, the cheesecake category,

competing against some of the best bakers around.

These women and men mean business.

It's really competitive, when you start baking,

it's quite stressful, you just want to do well.

Yes, I got up this morning about eight o'clock

and went to bed about three o'clock.

Unlike some categories here,

there may not be a specific recipe to follow,

but as competition is so stiff,

Judges Sue Pollitt and Judy Morgan-Jones

are pretty scrupulous,

and cheesecake winners must excel in a number of areas.

First of all, you look at the appearance, then you cut them

and you look at the texture and obviously taste.

You know, it all comes into it.

Our culinary duo certainly have their work cut out for them here.

Bulgarian born chef Silvena's lived in the UK for over 20 years.

This feisty foodie has a top Mayfair restaurant

and has fed royalty and rock stars.

If she can't beat the local amateur cooks and Aldo,

there may be fireworks.

What are you doing?

Italian extrovert Aldo's been in Blighty for decades,

and has owned a sizzling seven London eateries.

His passion is vegetarian cooking,

as well as bringing a continental flair to his recipes.

Blitz, blitz, blitz, joo-joo-joo. Off.

These two cooking colossi each need to rustle up

their prize-winning cheesecakes al fresco.

Here we are.

And as always, they're here with their trusty vintage van,

avec bijou kitchen.

SHE LAUGHS

We've arrived!

And they couldn't have a more inspirational spot to cook in.

The ruins of Wycoller hall are reputed to be

the setting of Ferndean Manor in Charlotte Bronte's Jane Eyre.

But how are our hero and heroine

feeling about the chapter ahead?

Cheesecake, you can do whatever you want to do.

There's going to be lots of entries, so what are you doing? Come on, then, reveal.

I'm going to tell you at the last minute.

I had a sneak preview of your recipe, you are busy, man!

Yeah, I'm busy but it's one of the best in the world.

You won't win, of course,

cos that will be me.

Ah, my God, very funny, very funny.

Wow, you two, that's fighting talk.

But before the cook-off can commence,

the pair couldn't miss the opportunity

to head to one of the oldest local foody hotspots.

A Lancashire butcher that's been alive and kicking for 104 years.

Oh, my God! Smell this.

Once owned by the Wigglesworths,

farmer Joseph Mellin and his butcher son Geoff

took the shop over in 1979.

I've been here 35 years.

I know I don't look it.

No, you don't look it, not at all.

And butchery's obviously in the blood.

Geoff's son, Nick, who's been wielding a knife

since the tender age of six,

also works there.

But it's head of the family, Geoff, who is going to teach our chefs

how to make a truly traditional delicacy.

Before they get cooking, he's getting acquainted with Silvena.

You are going to mix it all together for me.

Really? Anything for you, Geoff. Your accent is so sweet.

Is it? Are you flirting with me now?

MUSIC: "The Look Of Love" by Sandie Shaw

I'm just going to go outside and sunbathe,

these two look like they don't need me.

Let's go into the kitchen.

It's perfect for a woman with two men in the kitchen.

Right, can you pop me glasses on for me?

I knew I would have some use in the kitchen, after all.

Yeah, yeah, yeah if you two are quite finished,

it's time to make stew and 'ard, which is potted beef,

served on top of 'ard and crunchy oatcakes.

So, first, a litre of cold water.

Two middle marrow bones, so the marrow comes out.

Do you cook with marrow bone?

Yes, I was brought up with marrow bone, but most people don't know how to extract it.

What does it do? Does it give flavour or does it give texture?

-It gives a flavour, it gives a texture and it's a thickening agent.

-So it's like gelatine?

It's a three-in-one. Comes off this bone here.

Can I touch her?

Where, Geoff?

Here.

Thank you.

-Thank you, is that OK?

-It's very much OK.

-Settle yourself down.

Oh, it's difficult.

Oh, come on, you two! What comes after the thigh bone?

We're now going to add the meat, which is minced brisket flank -

we've got four to five pounds, approximately, here.

Going to give it a quick stir to blend it all together,

then we're going to season with salt and pepper.

You want to do that, Aldo?

Any herbs going in?

Nope, no herbs, it's very simple, basic and very old-fashioned.

Bring that to heat, to boil,

then we'll turn that down and simmer it for three to four hours.

Just gently and quietly.

This is one I prepared earlier for you.

What do we do now, Geoff?

We're going to skim. This is beef dripping.

Now, come here, Silvy.

Hoo-hoo, he's got a pet name for her, already!

In there, Silvy, is a small piece of marrow.

If you lift it up, let all the marrow fall.

-Ah, OK.

-Give it a shake.

-Perfect.

-Perfect, it's gone.

Give it a right good gentle mix and let it all...

I don't do nothing gentle.

Just gently.

Stop with this gently.

You don't want it everywhere.

He's a gentle butcher, the gentle butcher.

That'll be placed in the refrigerator to cool.

And here's one Geoff chilled earlier.

Look at that!

Mamma mia! It's like a coarse terrine or a coarse pate.

Finely chop a bit of onion and you'll see it compliments it.

Is this like a snack?

You would go to the pub, you'd have a pint of bitter

and some stew and 'ard.

The oatcake, round here they call it hard, excuse me, this is oatcake.

Oh, looks like fungi.

It's not fungi, Silvy, it's oatcake. Be quiet.

We know who wears the trousers there.

Ladies first.

Will it pass the taste test?

The oatcake works.

-Yeah, the oatcake...

-I'm not sure about the oatcake, sorry.

The stew is so delicious, it is delicious.

I disagree with you because I like the tradition.

This was delicious, absolutely delicious.

One of the best experiences.

I don't know about that, but I've enjoyed it.

I look forward to seeing stew 'n 'ard on your London menus, guys!

Certainly put a smile on "Silvy's" face! Ooh!

Sorry, Geoff, the fun's over and the battle of the chefs is on.

There's a couple of prize-winning cheesecakes

to be made for tomorrow's show in Trawden!

And Aldo's already won a first -

what's he got in store to ensure Silvena doesn't snatch a victory?

I'm going for a very simple,

Zilli, zesty, tofu cheesecake.

I don't think anybody would have seen tofu in a cheesecake before.

It may be simple, but that could be risky.

I'm gonna pile up lots of berries in the middle

and hopefully, not only will it taste amazing,

but like last time, guess who the winner's going to be?

Ooh, he's desperate to beat Silvena again.

But our competitive siren also wants a win.

How's she going to rustle up a champion cheesecake?

I'm doing the most classic of cheesecakes,

it's like "a la New York" style, it's very creamy, very rich,

very smooth, it's a little bit complicated,

it's a baked cheesecake so it takes a bit of time.

Aldo's gone for the non-baked variety of cheesecakes and I hate them.

I hate a non-baked cheesecake,

it's like a supermarket jobby.

Miaow!

So, the show doesn't state the type of cheesecake that must be made,

but it has to hit the spot with appearance, texture and taste,

so these two are pulling out all the stops.

It's time to get cooking - and it's ladies first.

It's very, very delicious if it's made properly.

I've got some digestive biscuits. This is about 500 grams.

I have melted some butter here, enough to bind the biscuits.

And preparation was key.

Silvena's tin is wrapped with a layer of baking paper

and three layers of tin foil.

Once I cook it in a water bath,

I don't want any water going inside there.

Press it down. It takes some time, but it's worth it.

It's very soft, it's like sand, it smells beautiful.

Hello! Hi, baby, there's nothing for you here.

Maybe he'd like a biscuit?

Base prepped, now to warm it up.

Off we go into the oven, that is even more temperamental than Aldo.

Ten minutes.

Time for the cheese part of the cheesecake.

I'm going to put all the ingredients in the mix,

not in any particular order. Cream cheese.

What is quite unusual is the presence of sour cream,

and I love it, personally.

-And it's like a secret ingredient.

-Not any more.

As if it wasn't rich enough, decadent enough, luxurious enough,

we're adding some double cream in here, as well.

It sounds like a lot of calories - but hey, it is a cheesecake.

If you're on a diet, you don't eat that.

Sugar, and now the eggs, four eggs we need, look at those yolks -

real good quality, local yolks.

Give it at least five or six minutes... Whoa! Hello!

Yeah, without spilling half of it.

Medium speed, not max. Medium. You want it very smooth,

very silky. And then some vanilla pods.

You can use also some vanilla essence, but for me,

it's a bit wishy-washy.

This is amazing.

This is like a smell that transports you onto a magic carpet.

Into the exotic islands of Madagascar.

Yeah, step away from the vanilla.

In the one firm go, get all the seeds out, just like that.

How easy was that?

This is very rich and very, very beautiful.

Phoo, noisy. Now look how smooth this is.

You can't expect the judges to eat it like that - best get that base.

Oh, my God!

This is so, so good. Ah, the smell - fabulous!

I'm going to cool it for ten minutes. Oh, God, these insects, really.

Make sure that I don't have any protein in my cheesecake.

Now for the glaze to put on top of the finished cake tomorrow.

I'm using a really good quality raspberry jam, probably half a jar.

A little bit of water, just to loosen it up

and I'm not afraid of anybody suggesting this is too restauranty.

I want it to look really, really amazing.

You look like a proper mamma, there - look at you.

Come to Mamma!

-Mamma.

-Come to Mamma, my baby.

-Proper housewife. Straining your berries...

I'm nearly finished, darling.

-Are you?

-Do you want a little lick of my bowl? Lick of my bowl...

It's taken you ages to do this cake.

It's because I'm doing a proper cake, darling - I'm not cheating.

Wow. Now I'm worried. Brava.

Can I go and do washing up for you?

Yes, please, darling - he knows, a man who knows his job in the kitchen.

Raspberry glaze made, creamy mixture cooled, and base cooked,

she's ready to rustle up a cheesecake extravaganza!

This is so delicious.

Perfect consistency and perfect colour.

I like my cheesecake quite thick,

I really hate cheesecakes with no height -

they're very, very supermarket.

And the secret to a great baked cheesecake,

is to surround it with hot water to create a bain-marie.

Pop it inside.

And cook at 160 degrees Celsius for an hour-and-a-half.

I can just go chill now.

Speaking of chilled, Aldo's up next, with his lighter, non-baked recipe,

with a vegetarian and citrus twist.

Silvena's cake is pretty tasty,

so I've got to do something similar but always, of course, tastier.

I've got a few little ingredients up my sleeves.

They're a bit more strong in flavour.

I'm not using the usual digestive biscuits, I'm using Hobnobs.

I just prefer them. Very quickly, blitz, blitz, blitz.

Joo, joo, joo. Off. Andiamo.

Butter...

Some special ingredients - limoncello, it's a lemon liqueur.

Ahh, I love this stuff,

and it's going to have quite a bit of it. 200 millilitres of this.

I hope the judges aren't tee-total.

And a splash of water in here.

A squeeze of a whole lemon goes in there.

Now melt some agar agar - this is a vegetarian

Japanese gelatine made of seaweed.

So I'm going to use three tablespoon of that.

I've got tofu. This is made of the soya bean,

and I think it actually tastes as good as a normal cheese.

I'm going to add a spoonful of cream cheese.

Coconut cream, and then a little bit of vanilla essence.

Interesting - Silvena used the real stuff.

Sugar, and then we blitz this, off we go.

I'm not going to blitz anything because I haven't got a blade on.

Ha, ladies and gentlemen, chef sensation, Aldo Zilli.

Shut up. This is more for Jeremy Beadle than a food programme.

-Now let's put that in there.

-Don't worry - we've got all day.

Oh, dear.

His sous chefs usually do that bit for him.

There you go.

Mmm, that already looks and smells absolutely fantastic.

Zest of a lemon straight in there.

Mmmm, oooh, I wish you could smell that.

So the whole thing now goes in the food processor, nice and gently.

There you go. Oooh!

A little butter in bottom, onto the tin.

With the back of a spoon, lay your mix.

Hmm. Different technique from Silvena, who used her hands.

Here we go, speak of the devil!

OK, what's going on here? How you getting on?

-Oh, you've used a lot of butter in there.

-Do you think so?

Don't let her ruffle your feathers, Aldo!

-Can I try, yeah?

-Yeah, yeah, go for it.

Ugh. No, this was an insect, sorry.

-I thought it was...

-No, no, no, it was an insect.

-Have you done this recipe before?

-About 50 times.

-Oh, Really?

-Mmm.

-You said you've never done this recipe,

you're so competitive. I can't wait to eat it.

Knowing her rival may have perfected HIS recipe,

Silvena decides to check hers.

Fingers crossed...

Oh, yes, it's looking gorgeous, slightly golden,

just a little wobble, wobble.

What I'm going to do now, is just switch off the oven,

and let it cool as it is overnight.

No baking for Aldo, his cake needs to chill overnight.

Sss.

That's all I've got to say. That is the bomb.

Chomping at the bit to outdo each other, and the local entrants,

Silvena's produced a traditional cheesecake that was

testing in terms of technique. But Aldo's concoction is a simple,

chilled recipe, with some brave ingredients.

You want a cuppa tea, love?

Oh, yes. What are you on?

Limoncello. I put so much in the cake!

Oh, my God! I can smell the alcohol from here.

And I can smell rivalry!

How are you feeling about things?

Fine. I mean, today I've been very relaxed.

How confident are you for tomorrow?

I must admit, I'm pretty confident.

I've gone for something very safe this time,

and you've gone for something very daring.

I just hope the judges are looking for that kind of taste,

because you don't know what they're looking for.

-See what happens.

-Salute.

-Cheers.

TRUMPET FANFARE

It's the day of the annual Trawden Show,

and over 6,000 people have come along to join in the fun.

First started 87 years ago as an agricultural show,

after a long break, it was resurrected in 1988.

Today it remains true to its heritage,

and in the various 3,500 classes, animals take centre stage.

But the secret to its success lies in

making young and old part of the day.

It's such a happy, friendly show,

-it's just lovely to be involved, isn't it?

-Yes, yeah.

It's in the Adult's Arts and Crafts tent where our chefs' cheesecakes

will be sampled and scrutinised.

In here, there are a record 554 entries -

from knitted toys to sweet wine.

But the baking section has some of the hottest competition

in the whole show - and it's not just locals who flock here to enter.

I made a Swedish cardamom cake,

and another Swedish chocolate cake.

But I'm not Swedish. I'm Spanish!

Ooh, that's why you've got your sunglasses on, love.

Our professional chefs don't have long to plate up their cheesecakes

and make them look as good as they hope they taste.

Oh, my God, everything looks so beautiful!

OK, cheesecake section.

-Well, at the moment there's no competition.

-HE LAUGHS

At the moment, we are winning!

You won't win anything if you don't get decorating!

-OK, I can't find my glaze.

-I chucked it away last night!

-My one is looking beautiful.

-Looks a bit more like a tart, mine.

No time for last minute fears - get move on!

-Can I borrow some of your berries?

-No!

Berries need to stick to this lemon curd.

-What are you doing? Why are you copying me?!

-What?

Silvena's spotted local Alison Atkins' impressive cheesecake -

she's been competing here for three years, so,

she's a strong contender.

It's a baked cheesecake? Yeah, of course, of course.

You do it baked. Is it an old recipe?

-No, never made it before. Just a new...

-Don't tell her that!

She's never made it before! OK. Right, she's never made it before!

Yeah, right.

Now they've had a sneak peak of how high standards are,

-they're getting worried.

-Have you finished?

I have finished, I've been ages ago finished. Ready.

Well, neither of them have scrimped on appearance -

hope it's not style over substance.

Oh, look! Aldo's cake has a twin!

-And another entrant's here..

-This your cheesecake?

-It is.

-Beautiful!

-Beautiful, indeed.

-Certainly is.

-I won first prize with it.

-When?

-Three years ago.

Primary school cook, Kathryn Monk, has been winning first

places for her baked delights here for over a decade.

So tell me, is it like a family recipe?

Mine, I'll pass it down to my children.

She's the one to beat.

Best you don't see any more of your rivals.

-Just look at this, this is amazing.

-Too late.

Look at the edge! How can you do this?

It's OK, it's not a cheesecake.

This fair has a lot high competition.

But it's not just the edible on display here.

-What are you doing?

-Spinning wool.

-Do you think I can do this?

-No.

-That told her!

It's her again - she must be queen of baking.

-Have you won this competition before?

-Yes.

Local lass Jackie Stansfield is renowned here,

and has lost count of how many firsts she's won.

Oh, God, she's like the Olympian of baking.

-You want to come and live with me?

-HE CHUCKLES

Do you have any cheesecakes?

No, my daughter does.

-Her daughter is doing a cheesecake.

-Yup, be afraid,

because her daughter, Francesca, has also made multiple entries.

I've got chocolate brownies, Victoria sponge,

cheesecake, chocolate cake...

been a little bit busy!

But it's her impressive chocolate cheesecake

our chefs should be worried about.

It'd be nice to come away with one prize.

William Titley's a regular entrant at the Trawden Show,

and even though it's his first time entering a cheesecake,

he knows what the judges are looking for.

He's gone for a New York style recipe, just like Silvena.

I have had a little taste this morning - it does taste good.

Imagine if I win a prize against all these women.

They'd string me up, wouldn't they? Hah!

Silvena might!

But under this beautiful bunting, the ones to impress

are cheesecake judges, Sue Pollitt and Judy Morgan-Jones.

Both home economics teachers for 30 years,

they're looking for grade-A bakers.

Best friends since university, they've judged together

at the Trawden Show for six years, and they always agree on one thing!

We love it!

We are the envy of most, a lot of people want to come

and taste with us but it's not allowed, obviously.

Well, Silvena's baked raspberry cheesecake

and Aldo's chilled zesty tofu recipe are ready for testing.

Kiss... Ciao, good luck!

You'll need it.

It's time now for the tent to close to the public,

and for the judging to commence.

Our nervous twosome pace the show ground,

and even though the prize money is only the gesture

of a few pounds, this competitive pair want

to save their reputations as top-notch chefs.

Aprons on, knives at the ready,

Sue and Judy are ready to get cheesecake tasting.

Oooh - that's your favourite!

And as the seven entries are anonymous,

it's all fair in love and judging.

What are these harsh critics looking for in a winner?

Flavour, obviously, and texture again,

and the appearance of it.

Standing here, you can pick out the ones

that look really inviting and tasty.

The raspberry one for me.

Silvena's has caught Judy's eye.

-It is a bit of wow factor, that one.

-I think this looks good, though.

Divided opinion - Aldo's has impressed Sue.

Let the tasting begin.

Young pretender, 22-year-old Francesca Stansfield is up.

Perhaps she'll follow in her mother's footsteps and scoop a first.

That chocolate's really proper bitter, isn't it?

It leaves an aftertaste.

Ooh, that's got to hurt.

William's Titley's rustic New York recipe is next.

That one has definitely sunk in middle.

-It's really smooth. I like that.

-That's good.

Is he still a strong player?

Time for Kathryn Monk's previous prize-winner to be scrutinised -

a white chocolate and raspberry concoction.

-Oh, there's raspberries in it.

-It's lovely, isn't it?

Silvena's desperate to bag a prize -

but will her baked beauty do it for her?

Now, then, to your favourite one, in appearance.

-It cuts really nicely. Beautiful!

-Yeah, she's good job there.

Enough to crown her a champion?

Aldo won a first yesterday, will his cheesecake make it a double whammy?

Ooh, I don't like it though.

-Strange texture.

-I don't like that.

Disaster! Was it tainted by the tofu?

-I think there's some alcohol in it.

-I think there could be.

And maybe it's changed the texture of cheese.

Ah - the boozy edge hasn't impressed.

It's a difficult one, this. I know which are first and second.

It's difficult, hmm...

Who's going to come out on top? Ho, ho, ho! Only time will tell.

Now to put our duo out of their misery.

Hold onto your hats.

The wait is over, and the tent re-opens.

Will either of our top chefs have beaten

the highly skilled local bakers?

Oh, there's nothing on mine.

Oow - a big flop for Aldo!

You're the first prize!

No, no! No, no, no! I won the first prize!

-Oh, well done, girl.

-I'm very pleased.

-I can't believe you got a rosette, and I didn't.

-Yes.

And to rub salt in Aldo's wounds, her win doesn't end there.

Best in section... It's my cup! It's my cup!

-I'm not jealous, but it's bothered me.

-SILVENA LAUGHS

Well, what can I say? Well done.

Thank you very much. You may kiss me.

I'm very pleased.

Anyone else get the impression she's pleased?

And she should be, as she beat fantastic baker, Alison Atkins,

who's staying modest.

I've got first place for fruit pie and third for cheesecake,

which is a miracle. I thought it was a disaster!

And Silvena also wiped the floor with Kathryn Monk's

once prize-winning recipe.

But it did place second, and Kathryn did get four other firsts.

William's entry didn't place, but there's a sweetener.

Win or lose, you've still got the cake!

So, Aldo's not the only one who couldn't beat

the tough competition here.

But how's he feeling after losing to his fellow professional chef?

She's so happy, it's even worth letting her win.

The competition today was very hard.

And I went for something more on the edge,

and I fell off the edge.

Is Silvena still basking in the glory?! I'll say!

Oh, I feel good, I feel better than good, really.

No point being too modest about it.

What was mind-blowing was the high standard of this competition.

To have won it, it means so much to me, I'm so proud.

Well, it's been a long day for everyone in Trawden

and at least one of our chefs leaves a champion.

Silvena has three points for her first prize,

and one extra point for winning best in section - she's galloped

ahead with a total of six, leaving Aldo in the dust, with only three.

He's going to need to up his game. Come on, Aldo.

Next time on Country Show Cook Off...

our foodie road trip takes our chefs to Kirby Lonsdale,

for a sweet in a wineglass competition.

-But, it's not all sweetness and light.

-Oh, no...

-Some crumble in a glass.

-You're going to lose!

She's getting very competitive again.

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd