Episode 1 Nigel Slater's 12 Tastes of Christmas

I find Christmas to be a magical time.

And as a cook, I think it's the most rewarding.

It's when traditional family feasts bring everyone together.

It's also when I am happiest in the kitchen.

It doesn't take much to kick-start Christmas for me.

And once the decorations are up,

I just can't wait to fill the house with warming aromas

and festive flavours.

I start sneaking some of my favourite tastes of Christmas

into my everyday cooking.

I'll share my favourite tastes of the season with you

and sprinkle some festive cheer on a few delicious dishes.

Of course, it wouldn't be Christmas without a tree.

And I'll be taking a trip to Norway,

'where I'll be on a very special mission.'

See, that to me looks like... I would call that a perfect tree.

'I'll be finding out how a few Scandinavian flavours

'can really capture the essence of Yuletide.'

I think it works beautifully.

'So, with a waft of pine trees in the air, it's time to get in the mood.'

It's Christmas. Straightaway.

Celebrate, indulge and enjoy the tastes of Christmas.

-# Hey, hey, hey snowflake

-Snowflake

-# My pretty little snowflake

-Snowflake

# Who, who, who The change in the weather

# Has made it better for me... #

My first taste of Christmas is often confined to the day itself.

But its magnificent colour and flavour can actually give

festive cheer to any dish.

My first flavour is always cranberries.

The minute I see them, I've got to use them.

Christmas is a very sweet and sticky time,

so it's nice to have something that's a bit sharp.

So I've got some red onions here.

I want them to cook quite slowly,

so they become sticky and a little bit jammy.

They have a sweetness to them,

which will balance out the sour little cranberries.

Put those over a moderate heat, not too high, and give them time.

'This cheerful flavour is going to pep up an otherwise everyday ingredient.'

There's not many people I know who don't like a sausage.

I've bought these little chipolatas

because they just feel more festive. There's something fun about them.

'Pop them in with the onions just as they start to soften.'

So, the onions are really sticky and the sausages have started to brown.

It's time to add my real Christmas flavours.

Cranberry jelly.

And then...

..some cranberries, a good handful.

Use fresh or frozen.

And then, keeping the heat quite low, let the jelly melt

and the cranberries cook through. You'll see that sticky glaze appear,

which is a mixture of the cranberry jelly

and all the sticky bits from the onions and the sausages.

Wee bit of salt and pepper.

And then a little bit of grated clementine.

Then no-one is in any doubt what time of year it is.

This is the first of the Christmas flavours.

The first time I see cranberries.

So there it is, Christmas on a fork.

This playful dish will gently deliver a little festive cheer

when you have the first flurry of visitors on the way.

It's a great way to work in that first taste of Christmas.

Flavours can unlock memories, and my next taste takes me right back

to my childhood, and the magic of the season.

I use it all year round, but at this time of year, spicy ginger, to me,

is one of the most festive tastes of all.

And I think my love of ginger started with good old ginger nuts.

But I've discovered something better. I've discovered spiced biscuits.

I start with 80 grams of muscovado sugar,

which is wonderful butterscotch-scented sugar.

It smells like an old-fashioned sweet shop.

And then 70 grams of butter.

And then I'm going to cream this until it's really dark and fluffy.

'The ginger is going to be the king of tastes in this recipe,

'but an extra kick of spices will make all the difference.'

What's really good is getting a tiny little nugget of cardamom

in your mouth when you're eating the biscuit.

And there's a little explosion of flavour.

'A little dark treacle will bring out

'the flavours of the sugar and butter..'

I need about two tablespoons.

'And then comes the plain flour.

'250 grams.

'A little bicarbonate of soda, a pinch of sweet cinnamon,

'and finally the ginger.

'It'll all need a good sieve.'

It just smells like Christmas the minute you get the spices out.

And then that goes into the butter and sugar.

'The yoke of an egg will bind my ingredients.'

And then the ground cardamom.

Now, that's very dry,

it needs a little bit of milk to bring the whole mixture together.

A little bit of flour on the board to stop the dough sticking to it.

And go as thin as you dare.

'Once you've got some festive shapes,

'pop them in the oven for about 15 minutes at 180.'

What I want with a crisp biscuit like that is a refreshing drink

and I've got a great cocktail to go with them.

Very Christmassy, very easy and it's full of ginger.

'Something cool and sharp,

'a few more of those festive cranberries

'will work well with spicy ginger. Using the hot, sweet

'and sticky syrup from the jar will bring out the flavours.

'Now for the Christmas fizz. I'm using cider.

'Give all the ingredients the briefest blitz

'so the cranberries keep some of their texture.'

So, crisp little biscuits.

'These sweet treats would be delicious as they are,

'but I think I can make them even more festive.

'Icing sugar, with a little lemon,

'will work wonderfully with the spicy ginger.'

Now, I want this to be able to trickle from my spoon, so not so thin

that it pours off the biscuit, but not so thick that it lands in a blob.

The only way to do this is to do it from a height,

and you'll make a bit of a mess. You just have to go with it.

Whether you let the children find these heavenly decorations

shimmering on the tree, or serve them up still warm from the oven,

once you've made these for someone they will always remember,

and Christmas and ginger will stay with them forever.

'If there's one thing I like to stock up on each Christmas, it's nuts.

'As soon as I see a bowlful, all shiny and festive,

'it's impossible not to get in the mood.

'But, much as I love to snack on them,

'they make the basis of a delicious meal too,

'and a nice change from eating meat.'

It wouldn't be Christmas without the nut roast.

But my nut roast isn't just nuts.

I start with dried porcini.

They're expensive dried mushrooms,

but just 40 grams will give you not only enough mushrooms

to flavour an entire nut roast, but also the best stock in the world.

The first nut to cook with, for me, is the chestnut.

These are cooked chestnuts.

And they're just all soft and ready to be used.

'And to me, a sprinkle of macadamias adds a touch of festive decadence.'

They're very, very rich in oil.

And they make a very luxurious nut roast.

Now, to those, I'm going to put some mushrooms.

'These will bulk out the roast.'

I'm going to give this a very quick blitz.

'Next, I like to add beans as a great alternative to the traditional rice

'in a nut roast.'

And you can choose any bean.

I just happen to like the little green flageolet.

'Now for the real hit of flavour.'

These dried mushrooms take literally minutes to plump up.

But, whatever you do, don't throw away this gorgeous liquid.

And there's only a few here, but they will give bags of flavour.

'Once the mixture has a good consistency,

'pouring in a beaten egg will hold it all together.

'And then I like to add a splash of dark soy and some honey.'

It sounds odd, but it actually works very, very well with the soy.

I'm putting a few breadcrumbs in, just to firm the mixture up a bit.

And just mix until it's just stiff enough to roll into balls.

Put a little bit of seasoning in in the way of salt and pepper.

And be generous. Give it a good stir.

These little bundles would fry up nicely in a pan but, for me,

the smell of these ingredients roasting in the oven

just helps to conjure up that Christmas feeling.

So, in the oven at 200 for about 30 minutes, just keep an eye on them.

When they've nearly had their time,

I can put my flavoursome porcini broth to good use.

So as soon as that's boiling, pop in some shredded kale.

What I've got is little patties that are crunchy on the outside

and they feel very springy and quite moist inside.

And then...

..these little chaps.

I'm still not going to waste that porcini juice.

So, if I'm not going to eat meat this Christmas, that's for me.

There's just something really festive and luxurious

about a nut roast.

It never fails to satisfy my cravings for something rich and wholesome.

It's a real foodie treat in the build up to the big day.

'My favourite Yuletide ritual is choosing the tree.

'I'm a bit of a perfectionist - I love wandering up and down

'the pine-scented rows in search for the one I'll eventually bring home.

'Picking a tree for the house is one thing,

'but imagine having the prestigious task of finding one suitable

'to be admired by a nation.

'I've come to Norway to help do just that.'

'I'm here in the Nordmarka Forest to help park rangers Frank and Runar

'find London's Trafalgar Square tree.'

It's a little bit different between the tree for your home

and for Trafalgar Square, because this needs to be nice all around.

You see, I get quite obsessional about choosing my tree.

I will go and I will walk round all of the trees.

I like big, long branches but quite even all the way around.

'I have a feeling this might take some time.'

It has good branches, but it's a little bit too short.

20 metre. So it's not tall enough.

Thankfully, there are plenty to choose from.

-This one you could have on your night table, you know.

-Yes.

-I mean, here's a real tree for the future.

-This way!

-Yeah...

-NIGEL LAUGHS

-Oh! You need a hand.

-I do.

Thank you!

'Every year since 1947, Norway has gifted a tree to Britain

'in thanks for our support during World War II.

'And it seems only the best will do.'

The silhouette of that tree is just beautiful.

The way the branches just curl at the edges all the way up.

That to me looks like... I would call that a perfect tree.

'Finally, it looks like we've found her.

'But this beauty has been waiting patiently for decades

'to earn the title.'

16, 17... 117 years old.

'This magnificent queen of the forest

'will now begin her careful journey to London.'

-Good job. Good job.

-It's your tree!

'I can't wait to see her lighting up Trafalgar Square in all her glory.

'Back in Frank's cabin, it's a great excuse for me to celebrate

'another of my favourite Christmas flavours...

'..cloves.

'And nothing captures the essence of cloves more than mulled wine.'

-First you put on the heat.

-OK.

'Everyone has their own way of making this warming wine.

'But I'm keen to find out how Frank makes his.'

And is this a precise recipe or do you alter it every year?

Every family have their own recipe.

'The key to good "glogg", as it is known here,

'is getting the perfect balance between sweet and spicy.'

Brown sugar, for more taste. And 100 grams of honey.

Then we have two pieces of cinnamon.

-Little cinnamon sticks.

-Yes.

Now, once you've warmed it,

do you leave it for a while before you drink it?

Normally we drink straightaway.

But then you can add some vodka or something else to it.

Maybe without the vodka. FRANK CHUCKLES

-You decide.

-Maybe without the vodka.

-Is that a vanilla pod?

-Yes.

'And then for the star ingredient - cloves.

'They are the most aromatic

'and flavoursome of the spices at this time of year.

'For me, Christmas and cloves are inseparable.'

It smells good.

It smells wonderful. It's one of those magical smells.

'Nothing will complement the taste of this clove-infused mulled wine

'more than a few spiced nuts toasted with sugar to give a sweet crunch.

'A simple treat, but it'll really put you in the mood for the big day.'

I think we should toast to something.

-How about the tree?

-For the Christmas tree to London?

-Yeah.

Let's toast to the Christmas tree to London. Cheers.

-And in the Norwegian way - skal.

-Yeah, skal.

-The Norwegian way.

Much better.

'For me, simple, rustic treats like this capture the true essence

'of the season.

'Back in the last minute hustle and bustle, I always like to make sure

'I have a few wintry dishes full of warming spices

'that will quietly cook themselves

'while I get on with the rest of my day.

'And, inspired by the spicy mulled wine,

'in this slow-cooked lamb recipe,

'cinnamon is going to be my shining star.'

It goes on so many things I cook.

In fact, just one sniff from the cinnamon jar

and I feel like it's Christmas Eve.

'Added to some cardamom and cumin, the trickle of oil

'mixed in will form a paste that will pack a punch with flavour.'

And then to go into that, I've got some lamb.

I'm actually using a neck fillet here.

It comes with a nice little bit of fat on it,

which is exactly what we want for slow cooking.

Now, this goes into the spice paste.

I'm just going to mix that up so that each piece of lamb is coated.

I want to brown that meat off a bit.

So, as soon as the oil is hot, just pop in the lamb.

It's important not to let the spices burn.

So, when a nice little crust has appeared on the underside

of the lamb, then turn it over and just brown the other side.

Whilst they're browning, I'm going to get on with the rest of it.

What I've got are these lovely little shallots.

'Once the meat is nicely browned, remove it from the heat

'and pop in the little onions whole.

'They'll soak up all of the meaty flavour.'

And as soon as they are a little golden here and there,

you can put the meat back.

And any juices that have come out of it too.

'I want quite a thick and rich sauce for this dish, so just before I add

'the final ingredients, a little bit of flour will help things along.'

Not much. A tablespoon is fine.

Now, the spices that I've used in my stew are exactly the same spices

that I would use in mulled wine,

and what I'm going to put in is actually some port.

It's just that bit more festive.

And also some stock.

'I'm using a lamb stock, but beef stock will work just as well.'

Now, bring that to the boil.

Now, what I've got in there is something

that actually smells like Christmas.

But what I want to do is to make it even more festive.

And I'm going to add some prunes.

They will enrich this sauce so beautifully

and they'll work very nicely with the spices.

Now, that also needs some black pepper.

I'm going to add salt later.

And now just one last thing - some more of that cinnamon.

And then that goes into a really low oven for a good couple of hours.

Look at that shine. That's from the prunes.

So, this lamb is really tender now.

Soft onions and prunes.

But best of all, I've got a sweet and slightly spicy gravy.

All it needs is just a little zip and zing from something very fresh.

A few pomegranate seeds.

Break those over the top.

So when you eat the sweet and spicy lamb,

every now and again you get a little mouthful

of wonderful, sour pomegranate.

'A few springs of fresh mint will deliver a final cool hit

'to complete this wonderfully flavoursome dish.'

And there we are. Mulled lamb.

And of all the things I do with cinnamon,

I think this is my favourite.

'This is such a pleasing offering for a cold, crisp winter's day.

'I've shown that those warming spices needn't just be for mulled wine.

'This looks and tastes like Christmas on a plate.'

For me, Christmas Eve is the most magical time,

and it's become almost a ritual to celebrate it

with a glass of port and some cheese.

This next recipe is simple, takes minutes

but also takes a wonderful piece of Stilton

to a heavenly new level of enjoyment.

What I do is to take a sheet of ready-made puff pastry,

put it onto a floured board and then just roll it out

so that it's no thicker than a one pound coin.

There's nothing nicer than thin, crisp puff pastry hot from the oven.

So, I cut the piece of pastry, first of all, into four strips.

And then each of those into six.

I want these little pastry parcels to seal quite tightly.

So, I'm going to make up a little bit of beaten egg.

I've got some wonderful, ripe Stilton here.

Because, for me,

it's one of the absolutely essential tastes of Christmas.

It's just not Christmas without blue cheese.

So, just brush the pastry all over.

And then take a little spoonful of the crushed Stilton,

and just pop it onto each one like that.

Just fold the pastry over and seal it as tightly as possible.

Then, so that they come out of the oven shining,

just a little bit of beaten egg on the top.

And I know they're perfect,

but I can't resist putting a little bit of grated cheese on top.

Just a tiny bit of Parmesan.

Now, I'm just going to pop a little hole in the top of each,

partly to let this steam out and partly so that

a little bit of melted cheese pops out of each one.

200 degrees.

For about 12 minutes.

'If you're expecting guests this Christmas Eve,

'being greeted by the smell of these little pastries

'bubbling in the oven will tempt and tease the taste buds.'

These smell as if they're ready.

These are amazingly light. And the cheese has oozed out here and there.

Makes them even more delicious.

And just one tiny little thing more.

'I've made some melting Stilton into the ultimate festive snack.

'It's the perfect celebration food to toast the big day.

'With a glass of wine in hand,

'there's no better start to the holidays.'

Wherever you are at this Christmas,

the food you eat can bring a little bit of magic to the table.

I've shown that just a few special tastes can really capture the spirit

of the occasion.

But to get my Christmas off to a really celebratory start,

there's just one more sight to go and see.

APPLAUSE AND CHEERING

Isn't she beautiful?

Next time, Christmas has arrived.

And I'll be cooking with six more festive tastes for the big day

and beyond.

From sparkling family feasts to tempting treats.

It's delicious.

Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd